So bloody hot right now, how could I be talking about insulation?  Proper insulation in your home will help your house to stay cooler inside in the summertime as well as stay warm in the winter.  For a house heated by gas or oil in this area (Ohio) these are the recommended levels:

Most older homes have between 3" and 6" of fiber glass blanket insulation. This is roughly equal to an R-value between R-9 and R-19.

Attic ceiling
R-49

Cathedral ceiling
R-38

Walls
Sheathing: R-5
Cavity: R-13

Floors
R-25

Crawlspace
R-19

Basement
Exterior Walls
R-12

Slab edge
R-8  

Basement
Interior Walls
R-11

With hundreds of inspections under my belt, mostly in Lorain county, I have found many foundation problems in the houses of this area.  In both old and newer homes the main cause for foundation problems is poor drainage.  Let's examine some facts:

Water that leaves your roof can cause all sorts of problems if it is not collected and piped away from the house.  An average one floor house might have approximately 2,400 square feet of surface area on the roof.  When a storm produces one inch of rain, the amount of water draining from the roof to the ground equals nearly 1,500 gallons!  Allowing this water to simply collect near the house or discharge from down spouts onto simple splash blocks at the base of a foundation is asking for trouble.

Let's face it, your basement is just a big hole in the ground.  If you dig a hole in your yard, you will notice that it fills with water every time it rains.  This is because it is the easiest place for water to go.  You have heard the old saying that water will take the path of least resistance.  Even if your basement has been waterproofed, if water is allowed to pool around your foundation constantly, it WILL eventually find a way in.  Many inspections that I have done reveal the downspouts discharging directly onto the ground (usually way too close to the foundation).  If the house does not have drain tiles installed around the footers, it will eventually begin to push the foundation in.  Another major issue is that most properties do not have enough slope AWAY from the house's foundation.  In many cases, the slope of the property is actually towards the foundation!

Let me bottom line this...

Take any roof run-off and property drainage and make it go away from your house -- far away.  If water does not drain away from your house, it will eventually damage your foudation.  That's the facts!

If you are buying a house, the sellers provide a disclosure statement listing any "known defects" that they are aware of.  Is this Disclosure Statement enough assurance that the house is in good condition?  Here is what the Ohio Code says about disclosure statements (in part):

Prior to July 1, 1993, the director of commerce, by rule adopted in accordance with Chapter 119. of the Revised Code, shall prescribe the disclosure form to be completed by transferors. The form prescribed by the director shall be designed to permit the transferor to disclose material matters relating to the physical condition of the property to be transferred, including, but not limited to, the source of water supply to the property the nature of the sewer system serving the property; the condition of the structure of the property, including the roof, foundation, walls, and floors; the presence of hazardous materials or substances, including lead-based paint, asbestos, urea-formaldehyde foam insulation, and radon gas; and any material defects in the property that are within the actual knowledge of the transferor. The form also shall set forth a statement of the purpose of the form, including statements substantially similar to the following: that the form constitutes a statement of the conditions of the property and of information concerning the property actually known by the transferor; that, unless the transferee is otherwise advised in writing, the transferor, other than having lived at or owning the property, possesses no greater knowledge than that which could be obtained by a careful inspection of the property by a potential transferee; that the statement is not a warranty of any kind by the transferor or by any agent or subagent representing the transferor in this transaction; that the statement is not a substitute for any inspections; that the transferee is encouraged to obtain his/her own professional inspection; that the representations are made by the transferor and are not the representations of the transferor's agent or subagent; and that the form and the representations contained therein are provided by the transferor exclusively to potential transferees in a transfer made by the transferor, and are not made to transferees in any subsequent transfers. The form shall include instructions to the transferor for completing the form, space in which the transferor or transferors shall sign and date the form, and space in which the transferee or transferees shall sign and date the form acknowledging receipt of a copy of the form and stating that the transferee or transferees understand the purpose of the form as stated thereon.

You can see from this brief excerpt from the Ohio Code that a disclosure statement is not a substitute for a professional Home Inspection.  It provides that neither the seller, nor the buyer, can be expected to have the training or knowledge to accurately include or exclude any known defects.  It further states that the buyer should get a professional Home Inspection.  Without a professional Home Inspection, a buyer is basically purchasing the house "as-is".

If you are looking to purchase a house that was built during the 1960's through the early 1970's, it probably was wired with aluminum wiring.  This type of wire has proven to be inferior and needs to be inspected by a professional to determine if there is a safety concern prior to closing.  Here are the facts on aluminum wiring:

**Unless you are a professional electrician or Home Inspector, a homeowner should NEVER open service panels or try to inspect or repair any electrical device!

ALUMINUM WIRE RISK: The Aluminum Electrical Wiring Risks & Hazards Explained

Aluminum wiring, used in some homes from the mid 1960's to the early 1970's, is a potential fire hazard. How safe is aluminum wiring? According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, fires and even deaths have been reported to have been caused by this hazard. Problems due to expansion, or more likely micro-fretting and arcing at the connectors, can cause overheating at connections between the wire and devices (switches and outlets) or at splices. The connections can become hot enough to start a fire without ever tripping a circuit breaker!

The photos shown above are not the most dramatic catastrophes linked to fires caused by aluminum wiring. But these are conditions that are found in many homes with aluminum wiring, confirming that this is a real, common, and widespread hazard.

CPSC research shows that "homes wired with aluminum wire manufactured before 1972 are 55 times more likely to have one or more connections reach "Fire Hazard Conditions" than are homes wired with copper. "Post 1972" aluminum wire is also a concern. Introduction of the aluminum wire "alloys" in 1972 time frame did not solve most of the connection failure problems. Aluminum wiring is still permitted and used for certain applications, including residential service entrance wiring and single-purpose higher amperage circuits such as 240V air conditioning or electric range circuits. The fire risk from single purpose circuits is much less than for branch circuits. But it's not necessarily because of a "new alloy" as some folks assert. It's because there are enormously fewer connections (four or six rather than 30 or 40 per circuit) and thus statistically a smaller chance of a connection failure. These connections do still burn up, as indicated by field reports.

• When was the house built or re-wired or when were circuits added? Homes built, rooms added, circuits rewired or added between 1965 and 1973 may contain aluminum wiring.
  
• Don't assume that there's no aluminum wire if your house was not built during these years. Circuits may have been added, extended, modified using aluminum wiring. Or an installer may have had leftover aluminum wire and used it after these dates. 
  
• Don't assume there's no aluminum wire just because you find none in the panel. Aluminum may have been used for part of circuits or for some but not other circuits in the building.
  
• At outlets and switches, look at stripped wire ends. Often simply removing the cover plate will give sufficient view. Be especially cautious if you see back-wired receptacles. It may be difficult to see if the wire is aluminum, but if it is, the smaller wire contact surface when this method was used may increase the risk of overheating or other failures.

I know that it is still warm outside, and most of you are not thinking of burning anything in your fireplace yet.  Before the cold weather kicks in, you should read this report from the CPSC:

Consumer Product Safety Commission

Chimneys: Safety Alert

In 1982, wood-burning appliances accounted for more fires, more fire deaths, and greater property damage than any other kind of heating fuel -- about 140,000 fires, 250 deaths and $257 million in property damage. These losses represented 20 percent of all residential fires in the U.S., 5 percent of all fire deaths, and 8 percent of estimated property damage.

CPSC research indicates that most wood heating fires involve the chimney and not the appliance itself. The majority of these fires are contained within the chimney and cause no damage to the house. The Commission is concerned, however, not only about the chimney fires that did ignite other parts of the house, but also about the potential future hazard from the continued use of chimneys whose structural integrity has been compromised by a chimney fire. This is especially true in light of the fact that many contained chimney fires are not reported to the fire services; in fact, consumers may not even be aware that a chimney fire has occurred.

Therefore, the Consumer Product Safety Commission is issuing a special safety alert concerning chimneys used with woodburning stoves, fireplaces, and fireplace inserts. The Commission urgently warns consumers to be aware of the potential fire hazards associated with these chimneys.

Now that the nation has entered the heating season, the Commission strongly urges you, if you have a stove or fireplace, to check the chimney for any damage that may have occurred in the past heating season. If it is difficult to examine the chimney, a local chimney repairman, chimney "sweep," or dealer can help. Have any damage repaired NOW.

Most fires involving either masonry or prefabricated metal chimneys occur because of improper installation, use or maintenance. The Commission staff has identified the following common causes of fires:

• Improper chimney installation too close to wood framing.
  
  
• Installation of thermal insulation too close to the chimney.
  
  
• Improperly passing the stovepipe or chimney through a ceiling or wall, causing ignition of wood framing.
  
  
• Structural damage to the chimney caused by the ignition of creosote (a black tar-like substance that builds up inside the chimney in normal use).
  
  

Structural damage to metal prefabricated chimneys that results in wood framing being exposed to excessive temperatures or leakage of potentially toxic gases to the interior of the home can take the following forms:

• Corrosion or rusting of the inner liners of metal chimneys.
  
  
• Buckling, separation of the seam, or collapsing of the inner liner of metal chimneys. (This can result from too hot a fire, especially in high-efficiency stoves and in fireplace inserts, or from a creosote fire.)
  
  

Structural damage also occurs in masonry chimneys, often associated with deterioration or improper installation of the chimney. The tile inner liner and the surrounding brick or block structure may crack and separate, perhaps as a result of the ignition of creosote that has built up in the chimney. Many old chimneys do not have a tile liner. If your chimney does not have a liner, the addition of a properly installed liner is advisable. Also, a clay liner should be sealed with refractory cement.

Even when the heating appliance is properly installed, people with either metal or masonry chimney systems should frequently check the chimney for creosote deposits, soot build-up, or physical damage. This involves only a simple visual examination, but it should be done as often as twice a month during heavy use. If you see heavy creosote buildup, suspect a problem, or have had a chimney fire, a qualified chimney repairman or chimney "sweep" should perform a complete safety inspection. They can arrange for any necessary repairs or creosote removal, which must be done before the heating appliance is used again.

There are products now available which, according to recent tests conducted by independent laboratories, show promise for reducing the production of creosote and harmful pollutant emissions. Advance wood stove designs appear to provide more complete combustion of the fuel. Catalytic combustors appear to achieve similar results, and are available with new stoves or as separate components which can be installed between the flue gas exit and the chimney connector of existing stoves.

The Commission advises owners of all chimneys to:

• Be sure that the chimney and stovepipe were installed correctly in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and local codes. If there is any doubt, a building inspector or fire official can determine whether the system is properly installed.
  
  
• Minimize creosote formation by using proper stove size and avoiding using low damper settings for extended periods of time.
  
  
• Have the chimney checked and cleaned routinely by a chimney "sweep" at least once a year. Inspect it frequently, as often as twice a month if necessary, and clean when a creosote buildup is noted.
  
  
• Always operate your appliance within the manufacturer's recommended temperature limits. Too low a temperature increases creosote buildup, and too high a temperature may eventually cause damage to the chimney and result in a fire.
  
  
• Frequently look for signs of structural failure.
  
  

If you have had a fire or other safety problem with your chimney, or would like additional information, call the Commission's toll-free Hotline 800-638-CPSC.

008412

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Send the link for this page to a friend! Consumers can obtain this publication and additional publication information from the Publications section of CPSC's web site or by sending your publication request to info@cpsc.gov.

This document is in the public domain. It may be reproduced without change in part or whole by an individual or organization without permission. If it is reproduced, however, the Commission would appreciate knowing how it is used. Write the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Office of Information and Public Affairs, 4330 East West Highway, Bethesda, MD 20814 or send an e-mail to info@cpsc.gov.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from more than 15,000 types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. Deaths, injuries and property damage from consumer product incidents cost the nation more than $700 billion annually. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard or can injure children. The CPSC's work to ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters, and household chemicals - contributed significantly to the 30 percent decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 30 years.

To report a dangerous product or a product-related injury, call CPSC's hotline at (800) 638-2772 or CPSC's teletypewriter at (800) 638-8270, or visit CPSC's web site at www.cpsc.gov/talk.html. To join a CPSC email subscription list, please go to www.cpsc.gov/cpsclist.aspx. Consumers can obtain this release and recall information at CPSC's Web site at http://www.cpsc.gov/.

If you've recently purchased a brand-new home, you're probably aware of the fact that your homebuilder's Warranty runs for one (1) year.  Some builders can offer up to two (2) years of structural warranties. Perhaps you've already experienced a few problems with your home...leaking fixtures, a squeaky or off-level floor, sticking doors or windows, a pesky circuit breaker tripping without warning, one or more rooms that just don't seem to heat properly in the Winter months? Not sure if those concrete cracks you've seen in the basement are likely to result in structural problems or foundation and basement leaks?

When your builder makes an 11-month follow-up call, you'll be fully-prepared with my detailed Inspection Report.  Instead of trying to remember what you wanted to bring-up or discuss with your builder for correction before your Warranty runs-out, having a thorough, reference-quality Report at-hand will give you a ready-made list of concern items or defects for your builder to address.

Before your warranty expires, you should hire a professional home inspection company, like Certified Home Inspections to ensure that the following components are working properly:

Complete list of Inspected components includes:   General Building Attributes Building type Tri-level Split level Ranch   Construction Frame Brick     Types of Utilities Water Electricity Gas Sewage   Landscaping Slope away from house Front yard Back yard Side yards Bushes and shrubs Trees Garden Drainage ditches Wooded areas* Pond* Playground*   Pavements and constructs Sidewalks Driveway Front porch Rear porch Deck Patio Fence Curbs Retaining walls Courtyard Gazebo* Culvert Playground equipment*   Roof Roof structure Roof covering Remaining life estimate Slope Chimney Gutters and downspouts Ventilation Roof penetrations Flashings   General Structure Siding Foundation Windows and doors Fascia, soffits and trim Outdoor faucets   Garages, sheds and outbuildings Overhead door Door opener Safety eyes Overhead door spring Floor GFCI outlets   Attic Access Structure Floor Lighting Insulation Moisture Attic baffles Fans   Bedrooms Location Electrical outlets Walls and ceilings Floors Alarms, detectors and sensors   Bathrooms Location Electric outlets Toilets Plumbing Showers and tubs Leaks Moisture   General Interior Living Spaces Floors Walls and ceilings Doors Steps and stairways Railings Fireplaces Alarms, detectors and sensors Moisture Whole house fan

Kitchen Floor Electric outlets and GFCI protection Plumbing Counter tops Cabinets Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors   Utility Room Location Walls Floor drain Moisture Floor Electrical Laundry connections Washtub   Plumbing System Main shutoff valve Piping Soil stacks Drains Sump pump Water heater Gas meter Water meter Service piping Water softener*   Electrical System Service location Main disconnects System voltage Main breaker Ampere rating Service type Bonding jumper on water meter Made electrodes Breakers CATV grounding Telephone grounding   Heating and Cooling Heat source Forced air furnace Gravity furnace Electric baseboard Boiler   BTU output BTU input Humidifier Service piping Flue piping Distribution Air conditioning   Basement, Crawlspace and Slab Floor Walls Windows Floor drain Moisture Support beam Lighting Ventilation   Appliances Refrigerator Range Microwave oven Cook top Dishwasher Garbage disposal Central water filter* Clothes washer Clothes dryer Trash compactor* Room air conditioners* Sprinkler system* Whole house fan Central vacuum* Access control system* Humidifier* Incinerator*   Safety Devices Smoke alarms Carbon monoxide detectors Fire escape equipment Emergency exits Emergency lighting   Safety Concerns Combustible gas leaks Carbon monoxide leaks Furnace Water heater Fireplace       AND MUCH MORE...   * Not included in full inspection but available at extra charge

If you are building a new house, you may not feel the need to have it Inspected, however new construction can be done in a sub-standard way.  Contractors have been known to "cut corners" to save in construction costs.  Here are the facts of why you should get your new house inspected while construction is ongoing:

Buyers of re-sale homes almost always have their homes inspected by a professional inspector.  Buyers of new homes, however, often do not take this important step.  There are several reasons for this: The buyer is getting a brand new home, and thinks that the inspection is an unnecessary added cost.  The buyer feels that they are protected by the builder's one-year warranty for workmanship, plus extended structural warranty.  In many cases, the home is inspected by city inspectors as a part of the permitting process.  Buyers believe that they can rely on the builder's reputation.  The builder is resistant to idea of third party inspections.  Buyers are not aware that a home inspection is a recommended alternative. The buyer plans to "keep an eye" on the construction.   A Business Relationship The construction of a home is a big project involving many contractors and suppliers.  As the buyer and homeowner you are the financer and recipient of the final product.  If you are like most people, this is your biggest investment.  Understandably, most people want to establish a good rapport with their builder.  They must rely on the builder throughout the job, and for warranty and service work after completion.  They feel that they need the builder's friendship and good will, and do not want to risk damaging the relationship.    You will need to come to terms with this in your own mind.  Do not allow your anxiety about the construction process to obscure the fact that you have a business relationship with your builder.  You are working together under a contract.  It is possible to be cordial and respectful, while maintaining the right to bring up problems and concerns.  It is best to establish the ground rules for your  relationship at the beginning of the project.  At some point, you may need to tell the builder that something is not acceptable to you.     Schedule Inspections Let the builder know at the outset that you will be getting a construction inspection.  You may hear (from the builder or others) that this is unnecessary, that city inspections will be done, that this is an unusual step, etc.  Stand your ground on the inspection decision.  After you have let the builder know that you will be getting an inspection, send an email or written note clarifying when your inspections will be done.  Make it clear that you will need to have the utilities connected for your final inspection.  Allow enough time after the final inspection for corrections to be made before closing.  Check with your inspector about which inspections he recommends.  The three that I offer are:  Foundation Pre-sheetrock Final Inspection.      Foundation Inspection With some complicated foundations, you should have an engineer review the construction as it progresses.  In other cases, a licensed inspector can do the job.  Usually, city inspectors do a layout inspection, making sure the foundation does not overlap building lines.  Whether or not you are in a city, ask your inspector to double check this.  Ask for a copy of the "forms survey", if the builder has one.  If a forms survey has not been done, carefully measure from the property lines.  If there is some doubt about whether the structure encroaches over building lines, have a survey done before proceeding.  In addition to the layout, the inspector will check the steel content, depth of footings, post tension cables, and other parts of the foundation.  Pre-Sheetrock Inspection Most builders invite the homeowner to do a walk through after framing, HVAC and plumbing rough-in, and electrical wiring are complete.  This is a good time to look at your outlet locations and window and door placements.  Make sure that any changes in the plans have been picked up and made by the sub contractors.  While you check for layout items,  your home inspector can look closely at the  construction.  His report might include:  broken plumbing lines, improper flashing, cut or bowed studs, inadequate bracing, beams that over-span their strength, AC ducts that are crushed, etc.  These items are easy to correct at this point, before sheetrock and finish materials are installed.    It is not realistic to expect the construction to check out perfectly. Every builder in every price range will have some items to correct, both from the city and the third party inspector.   Let your builder know that you will provide him with the report immediately, so that he can address the items before the walls are closed up.  Final Inspection You will need to have all utilities on in order to complete this inspection. Normally, the builder requests a "walk-thru" inspection with you when the house is substantially complete.  If utilities are on, you could schedule your inspector at this time.  You can focus on paint and touch up items, while your inspector conducts a more thorough inspection, checking for leaks, non functional outlets, final grading of the lot, flashing problems, appliance operation, voids in mortar, etc. n 10 Reasons to have your New Construction Inspected Fewer big new housing developments and more tear-down and build up houses Small builders who build 3 to 4 houses a year New, inexperienced general contractors Less expensive and inexperienced labor pool New materials and technologies Wide difference in building codes between different municipalities No more arguing and dispute over what is covered by the warranty and what is normal wear and tear Client has a legally enforceable defect report based upon state standards and practices Inexpensive fixes are the rule.  Most warranty defects are easily fixed.  The inspector can help in this process The inspector can act as a mediator between builder and owner

Buyers in Lorain county should hire an inspector prior to closing.  One of the most important aspects of a Home Inspection should include an intensive inspection of the roof.  Here is what my inspection covers:

My roof inspection covers all aspects of your roof.  The inspection requires that I climb on the roof.  There are certain limitations to this policy, however.  I cannot go on roofs that are covered in snow, recently (and still) wet from rain, or roofs that exceed either two stories tall or are pitched greater than 4/12.  In these situations, the roof will be inspected from the ground or edge via binoculars.  I will also inspect the roof in all circumstances (where accessible) from within the attic.  Certain inspectors will not go on any roof at any time.  I feel that the best way to inspect anything is to get as close as possible.  Many problems are very small when they start, and are therefore harder to see the farther away you get from them.  All of the items detailed in the diagram above will be inspected to the best of my ability.  If any limitations to the inspection were encountered, it will be noted in your report.

The question that I am asked most often is "How's the roof?"  This is a loaded question, of course, and I will attempt to describe the condition of all the roof components clearly and precisely.  To just say that the roof is good, or bad, does not cover it.  I will go over my findings with you after the inspection and describe in detail what I noticed.  I will give you an estimated life expectancy on the roof but keep in mind these factors:

	All roofs will leak eventually
	Any roof penetration (chimneys, plumbing stacks, skylights, etc.) increase the potential for a leak

	The exposure of the roof and pitch will affect its' lifespan   Southern exposures will fail faster   The less pitch (or angle) of the roof, the faster it will fail
	Skylights will always leak, eventually   Skylights that were installed as part of the original construction are better   Skylights that have been added after original construction are more likely to leak   Flush mounted skylights are not as good as raised ones
	Different roof covering materials have different life spans   Slate tiles last the longest (up to 100 years or more) but the other components won't last as long   Clay tiles last as long as slate, with an indefinite life expectancy, however the fasteners and joiners will not last nearly as long   Concrete tiles can last up to 50 years or more   Fiber cement (mostly made with asbestos) can last 30 to 50 year   Metal roofs can last from 25 to 50 years   Wood shingles and shakes can last from 10 to 60 years   Asphalt shingles (the most common by far) will last from 15 to 25 years normally   Multiple layers reduce the life expectancy dramatically   Exposure plays a big part in the life expectancy

This is a quick course in roofing 101.  There are hundreds of variables that contribute to the condition and life expectancy of roofs, however, these are the main ones.  Your report will describe each of these items.

Although I do recommend a full inspection of the property (it is your best value) if all that you require is an inspection of the roof, I can accommodate your needs.

I would sincerely like to offer my services to both you and your clients.  Please read the information below to see how I can benefit your clients and help you to streamline your transactions.  I will not "talk down" to your clients and will do everything in my power to not only expedite scheduled Inspections in a timely manner, but ensure that your clients are completely satisfied with my services.

What separates me from the others:
I am there to help, not to hinder...

	I will be available to both you and your clients 7 days a week and evenings to accommodate your schedule.  I will never "blow you off" for an easier or more profitable job.  If you need an Inspection done immediately, I will somehow fit it in and I will never rush the job because I'm busy.  If your clients have a question, I will be glad to answer it, and will even come to their house to explain in detail how to solve any problem.
	I will conduct myself in a professional manner and present myself in a professional manner. You do not want someone to roll up to the Inspection in a beat up truck wearing ripped jeans or shorts.  You do not want an Inspector to look like an unshaven bum. You do not want your recommended Inspector to be a young kid that looks as if he just graduated from a vocational school and this is his first time. You do not want someone so old that they refuse to go on a roof or climb into a crawlspace.  Nor do you want someone to show up in a white shirt and tie who might be afraid to get dirty. Any recommendation that you make for a professional, reflects upon you, no matter how much you try to distance yourself, and I will conduct myself in the same caring and professional manner that you have treated your clients and want them to be treated by others associated with you.
	I will take the extra time to carefully explain everything in a calm and relaxing way.  I will not belittle the home for minor cosmetic imperfections and will list defects according to their relative importance as far as minor or serious.  I will consult with your clients and give them different options as to how to solve any issues that come up.
	Bottom line-your clients are my clients.  I will not consider any job complete until they are completely satisfied with my work.  I will even return to help them solve any problems they may have.

Advantages to the real estate agent in recommending a pre-listing Inspection:

	Agents can recommend certified NACHI inspectors as opposed to being at the mercy of buyer's choices in inspectors.
	Sellers can schedule the inspections at seller's convenience with little effort on the part of agents.
	Sellers can assist inspectors during the inspections, something normally not done during buyer's inspections.
	Sellers can have inspectors correct any misstatements in the reports before they are generated.
	Reports help sellers see their homes through the eyes of a critical, third-party, thus making sellers more realistic about asking price.
	Agents are alerted to any immediate safety issues found, before other agents and potential buyers tour the home.
	Repairs made ahead of time might make homes show better.
	The reports provide third-party, unbiased opinions to offer to potential buyers.
	Clean reports can be used as marketing tools to help sell the homes.
	Reports might relieve prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
	Seller inspections eliminate buyer's remorse that sometimes occurs just after an inspection.
	Seller inspections reduce the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
	Seller inspections relieve the agent of having to hurriedly procure repair estimates or schedule repairs.
	The reports might encourage buyers to waive their inspection contingencies.
	Deals are less likely to fall apart the way they often do when buyer's inspections unexpectedly reveal problems, last minute.
	Reports provide full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

What sets me apart from the others/what can I do for you?

	I understand that your deal is time sensitive.  I can usually schedule an Inspection for the next day after you or your client contact me.  In some cases, I can get it done that very same day.
	Included in my Inspection Agreement is a "hold harmless clause" which protects you from any litigation that may present itself in the future.
	I generate my reports the evening that the Inspection takes place.  You or your client will have the report in your hands by the next morning (if you elect to have rush delivery service).

With the rash of people literally poking the eyes out of sellers in Real Estate deals, the feeling that the savings they are getting on the selling price is swaying some people away from getting a Home Inspection.  I have inspected houses in Elyria, Avon, Sheffield, Grafton, Lorain, Amherst, Eaton, in Lorain county, Medina county, Cuyahoga county that are only 10 years old in some cases.  To look at them from a laymens perspective, these houses look to be in great condition.  After inspecting them, I informed the buyers (in many cases) that they were looking at thousands and even tens of thousands of dollars in "hidden" defects.

Not having a house Inspected prior to closing could cost you plenty, if there are defects that you don't know about.  Below is a sampling of some common defects that I see on a regular basis.

	Install interior drainage and damp proof basement One of the most common defects that I run across.  Especially in older houses.  Poor drainage causes more damage than any other fault.  It causes the basement to cave-in and could bring down your entire house if not taken care of.  On top of this, it provides the perfect environment for MOLD growth.	$8,000.00
	Underpin one corner of house I see a lot of this when inspecting a house that has had an addition added to it.  If not done right, the addition starts to gradually fall away from the rest of the house because the foundation was not properly poured to begin with.  If you notice step cracks in the blocks of the foundation of an addition, it is probably settling and pulling away from the rest of the house.  The figure for repairs at the right is probably a low ball figure and will more often cost more.	$3,500.00
	Replace main beam I have seen quite a few houses where the owners have remodeled their basements and moved or completely taken out posts that hold the main beam up because they were in the way.  If your floors creak or you notice a sag in the main beam, it needs to be inspected or replaced and shored-up.	$2,000.00
	Repair minor crack in poured concrete foundation Any crack in a foundation should be considered a big deal.  Some cracks are due to minor settling, but foundation cracks are rarely limited to just a single crack.  The figure at the right is to repair a single crack.  A general rule of thumb is to add up all of the cracks for a total.  Example - 8 cracks each 1/8" wide = a 1" crack!	$800.00
	Replace roof sheathing Depending on the size and complex nature of the roof, the figure at the right could double or triple!  The roof is the umbrella that keeps water from getting into the house and prevents damage from moisture.  Multiple layers of roof material cuts the life expectancy in half.  Home buyers NEVER get up on the roof when inspecting the house themselves.  So much damage could be caused by a defective roof, that EVERY home buyer should have the roof inspected.	$5,000.00
	Re-wire house up to standards Aluminum wiring was common in houses built 30 years ago.  If you are looking at a house that is "only" 30 years old, it is probably in pretty good condition.  However, without knowing what to look for, could cost you your life!  Aluminum wiring had a problem of backing out of the connections and MUST be brought up to safe standards by retrofitting proper outlets and switches that reduce the risk of the wires backing out.	$10,000.00
	Install new furnace If the heat exchanger is bad, your furnace could be spilling toxic carbon monoxide into your home.  The heat exchanger is pretty much hidden from view and unless you know what to look for, you have no idea if the heat exchanger is good or not.  If the heat exchanger is bad, the furnace needs to be replaced.	$5,000.00
	Install new chimney liner Once again, the average home buyer (or seller) has no idea what to look for.  Poor maintenance dramatically reduces the life of a chimney.  At the very least, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected by a professional at least once a year.  The chimney should be inspected and cleaned by every new homeowner prior to use.	$1,500.00
	Add insulation to standards Insulation issues are probably a bigger problem in older houses.  If you buy a house in the warm weather, you may not notice it until it gets cold, and your entire house is drafty and cold.  Many older houses also have newer heating systems retrofitted onto old ductwork.  With poor ductwork location and insufficient insulation your heating bills could be a major expense.	$2,000.00
	Replace toilet Replacing any fixture can be costly.  Plumbing fixtures (if bad) could cost much more than just replacing the fixture if they leak and damage other components.  A bad hot water heater could cause thousands of dollars in damage if they dump their entire contents into the surrounding area.	$500.00
	Replace leaking skylight Once again, the roof sheds water off of the house and keeps the interior dry.  If not properly installed, a skylight can cause a lot of damage in a short period of time.  A general rule of thumb, is that EVERY SKYLIGHT WILL LEAK, eventually.	$1,500.00