Dave and Carla's Blog

Montclair action Group Needs Help Collecting School Supplies For Needy Kids

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 12:01:27 -0500

Montclair Action Group will be collecting various "Much Needed" school items at the Montclair Famer's Market Through D Sunday August 23rd. The items. The supplies will be distributed to the Oakland Schools that are the most under resourced. To help

WHAT: Oakland School Supply Drive

WHEN: Weekends through Aug. 23 at the Montclair Farmers Market, La Salle Avenue and Mountain Boulevard. Special collection is planned from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Aug. 23 at the Montclair Cultural Arts Center, 1650 Mountain Blvd.

NEEDED: Pencils, pens, erasers, notebooks, glue sticks, backpacks and more.

INFO: www.montclairaction.com

Staycations

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sun, 09 Aug 2009 12:06:03 -0500

This Saturday, August 8th, the Laurel Street Fair is going on from 1-6PM near Mac Arthur Blvd. There is a Farmers Market, a Large Kids zone with Rides, Animals and Games. Various Artists providing Music and Enetertainment. Local Merchants and various food booths. The weekend Weather is heavenly so come on out and have a fun/inexpensive experience at the Laurel Street Fair.

Sunday, August 9, 12:30-4:30 pm, Free Second Sundays at the Oakland Museum, Family Explorations! Be Creative! Join the museum and the Oakland Public Library in celebrating the end of the Library's Summer Reading Program. Check out mystifying magic with Timothy James; art activities; cartooning with author Oliver Chin; dancing on our outdoor stage; scavenger hunt with prizes; interactive story times; and free frozen treats from Dreyer's at the end of the day (as long as supplies last). And there's more! At the end of the day, a ceremony honors all the children who completed the Summer Reading Program. Included with museum admission.Growing Up in Oakland Free Youth Film Festival.

(The picture is of us and our girls having our own local campout in the backyard!)

Are You Facing Foreclosure?

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 10:19:08 -0500

Are you facing foreclosure?

You May Have A Better Way Out!

There are countless hardships that can turn home ownership from a joy into a burden. The loss of a job, medical bills, or an unexpected hike in monthly payments can all make a mortgage unaffordable. But ignoring the bills will not make them go away, it will only make things worse.

If you need help, there are approaches that can help, but you may not be familiar with them. One of these is a "short sale."

In an approved short sale, the lender agrees to accept less than is owed for the property, and the homeowner is relieved of the debt. A lender may be willing to do this because it spares a lot of hassle and expense involved in executing a foreclosure. And typically, a short sale does far less damage to the homeowner's credit than a foreclosure does.

If you would like to explore the possibility of a short sale for your property, avoid foreclosure, and potentially save your credit rating, please complete the form below. A qualified short sale agent will be in touch with helpful information.

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Plan for Moving Day 1 Month in Advance

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 10:16:12 -0500

Prepare for Moving Day the Month Before

You finally fell asleep and began to dream. In your dream, moving day had finally come. Unfortunately you had underestimated how many boxes you needed. You also ran out of tape and lost all of your permanent markers that would have allowed you to label the contents of the boxes. While your children were running around wildly (since you packed all of their toys without thinking), one of them had run into the corner of a table, meaning that he needed to be taken to the hospital for stitches. You had no idea where his medical records were because all of the boxes were unmarked, leaving you hopelessly searching through box after box. The movers were paid by the hour, and you had already surpassed the cost you had hoped would cover them. Your alarm clock finally brings you out of your nightmare, huffing and puffing.

Moving day should not be that stressful. Here is a practical guideline to help you make your moving day as stress free as possible by starting a month before.

One Month Before Moving

Get an IRS Change of Address form by calling 1-800-829-1040. If you do not have a new permanent address yet, obtain a post office box or forwarding address for your mail until you have a permanent address.

Collect moving supplies and put them all in one location: boxes of all sizes, measuring tape, packaging tape, twisty ties, pocket knives, rope, permanent markers, bubble wrap, tissue paper, old blankets, furniture pads, scissors, cash, credit cards, etc.

Secure travel arrangements such as airline tickets, hotels, rental car reservations, or travel route directions.

Either call a moving company or reserve a rental truck to move yourself.

Finalize your real estate and apartment rental needs.

Get a portable file box to keep important documents in such as legal papers, medical records, and insurance records.

Get your medical and dental records, x-rays, and prescription histories. Ask for needed referrals and transfer of prescriptions.

Hand out your new address by using Address Change Notification Cards to the following:

1. Friends and Family Members
2. Banks, Insurance Companies, and Other Financial Institutions
3. Charge Card and Credit Card Companies
4. Doctors, Dentists, and Other Service Providers
5. State, Federal Tax, and other government agencies
6. IRS

Add a folder to your file box called "Moving Receipts" (many of the moving expenses are tax deductible).

Make maps and lists of phone numbers and address of local hospitals, police stations, veterinarians, fire stations, restaurants, parks, grocery stores, gas stations, drug stores, salons, and dry cleaners in your new neighborhood.

Plan your moving budget.

Pack a bag of games, books, and anything else that will entertain your children for the long car ride, hotels, plane rides, rest stops, etc.

Get rid of unwanted items around your house: clothes, furniture, clutter items. Sell them, throw them away, or give them away to friends, family, or a charity.

Arrange to pick up your children's school records and prepare them for their new school.

If your family will be riding in two separate vehicles, make sure both cars will have a walkie-talkie or cell phone to keep in touch while on the road.

Make sure the employees in your family contact their employers to make sure their tax withholding forms are forwarded to your new address.

Return borrowed items such as library books, videos, etc.

Record the serial number of important electronics and other important equipment. Place that paper in your portable filing box for safekeeping.

Either transfer or close your bank accounts. Remember that your account needs to be inactive for usually about 2 weeks before you can close out the account.

Two Weeks Before Moving

Inform gas, electric, water, cable, local telephone, long distance telephone, magazine subscriptions, and trash removal companies of your move. Cancel local subscriptions or services to pool maintenance, fuel delivery, water, etc. Sign up for services at your new home.

Recruit moving day help. Get someone to watch the kids so that you are free to answer questions, run errands, and organize. How can you make sure the kids will stay out of your way? Will the babysitter take them to a park or a family member take them to their home? Who is going to keep your pets from running into the street or biting the movers?

Confirm travel reservations.

Get the oil in your cars changed, if needed for the trip.

Check with your insurance agent to make sure that you will be covered through your homeowner or renter's policy during the move

Day Before Moving

Make sure your moving materials (measuring tape, pocket knife, boxes, tape, and markers) are easily accessible and will not get packed by mistake.

Pick up the rental truck, if applicable.

Make sure your cars are full of gas.

Double check to make sure your tickets, charge cards, forms of ID, and important papers are stored safely and yet accessible when needed.

Tips for Packing Up

Clearly label on the outside of each box the room in the new home to which it should be delivered.

Either label each box with what is inside or write a number on the box, keeping a list of what is in each box.

CLEARLY mark fragile items.

Pack a bag of personal items to keep in the car with you: a change of clothes for everyone, major toiletries, medicine, maps, food, and drinks. Make sure that bag is easy to get to.

Before you get into your car or moving truck, make sure you do a thorough run through of your house to check for personal belongings in closets, drawers, shelves, and the attic and garage.

Arrival at Your New Home

Renew your driver's license, auto registration, and tags.

Shop around and obtain new insurance policies, if needed, especially auto.

Have the movers unload the boxes into the labeled room.

Unpack the children's rooms first so that they are entertained in their room, and so they can begin to adjust to their new home.

Do You Need a New Mattress

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 10:14:26 -0500

Do You Need a New Mattress?

After a long day at work, you come home and try to figure out finances for the future. How in the world are you going to cover all your regular expenses as well as the expenses of both selling your current home and buying your dream home? Your eyes, mind, and body are screaming for sleep. The moment has finally arrived. You can now crawl into bed. The mattress seems to suck you in because you've slept on it for so long, and at last, you rest.

Morning came all to fast. At the sound of the alarm clock, you jump out of bed to stop the annoying noise. As you stretch, you begin to feel the results of sleeping on your twelve-year-old mattress. Your back aches. Your shoulders are tight. You actually feel more tired then when you went to sleep the night before.

Perhaps it's time you invest in a new mattress. You may be thinking, "Getting a new mattress sounds great, but I can't afford one right now. We have enough expenses as it is." Well, finances may be tight but take a moment to think about your health.

Why Should I Invest in a New Mattress?
Have you thought about how important a good mattress is for your overall wellbeing? You use your mattress everyday. In fact, you spend one-third of your life sleeping on that surface? Your mattress is supposed to realign your neck and back from the stresses of the day. Is your mattress performing that duty?

Take a realistic look at your mattress. Can you see the outline of your body? Does your mattress sage more than an inch and a half anywhere? Is your mattress over 8-10 years old? Can you feel the coils in your mattress when you lay down? Are there coils popping out? Is your mattress heavier than when you bought it? That may sound like a strange question, but did you know that your mattress gains a pound each year from the accumulation of dead skin cells, dust mites, and other disgusting elements? And worse yet, all of these elements are common allergens.

Now, how about your body? Has your body changed from age, an accident, a dislocated disk, or significant weight loss/gain? Most of these body changes will affect the kind of mattress that your body needs. Do you wake up more tired than when you went to sleep? That question alone could very well indicate that you need to invest in a new mattress.

How Do I Choose A Mattress?
The following steps will help you make a wise choice for your specific health needs.

1. Choose Your Mattress Size. You may desire a king, but perhaps you may not be able to afford it or be able to fit it into your bedroom. The following chart will give you the universal measurements.

Twin/Single	39" x 75"
Double	54" x 75"
Queen	60" x 80"
Olympic Queen	66" x 80"
California Queen	60" x 84"
King	60" x 78"

2. Choose Your Comfort Level. Use a scale from 1-10 to measure the softness and hardness of each mattress. One is very soft (no support) and ten is rock hard (not comfortable). The categories of comfort are as follows: extra firm, traditional firm, cushiony, plush. But don't stop there. Try foam, pillow-top, water, adjustable, and air mattresses. Figure out what type of surface you like, and then determine if that surface will meet your health needs (back support especially). Usually the mattress with a higher coil count and thicker padding means higher quality. Unfortunately, the pillow top mattresses that are "in" right now tend to leave body impressions and sage much more quickly than other mattress types.

3. Lay Down on Your Mattress. Spend at least 15 minutes lying down on the mattress from head to toe in your normal sleeping position. Don't just sit on the edge and dangle your feet. You may feel awkward laying fully down on various mattresses in the store, but you will be amazed at how your body will either accept or reject the mattress for you. Listen to your body after those 15 minutes. Do you have trouble getting comfortable? If your shoulders, hips, or lower back begin to feel uncomfortable, the mattress may be too hard or soft for you.

4. Inquire About the Coil Count. The coil count for a quality mattress should start at 300 for a full mattress, 375 for a queen, and 450 for a king. The higher number of stronger coils usually equals a higher quality mattress.

5. Buy a New Box Spring Too. You may be trying to save a few pennies by simply getting a top mattress and using your "in-good-condition box spring" at home. Do not cut yourself short. You will actually cut the life of your mattress in half by skimping on the box spring. The two are made to work together.

6. Buy From a Reputable Store. Talk with people who have recently purchased mattresses. Where did they buy their mattress? Were they satisfied with the store's policy? Call the better bureaus office and ask for a few suggestions in where to start.

7. Make Sure the Company has an Exchange Policy. Do not buy from a store that will not let you exchange the mattress for another model if you are not completely satisfied. Many mattress stores have a policy that enables you to exchange the mattress within 60 days. Remember how important this sleeping surface is for your health.

8. Understand the Warranty. Most companies offer a 10-year warranty, but check the proration. The proration is the percentage of the original purchase price that the mattress manufacturer will refund if your mattress is defective. Some companies reduce the amount that they will cover by each year you own the mattress.

9. Consider Your Price Range. A basic queen set will range from $500 to $700 dollars. A better quality will cost $700 - $900. Top quality mattress sets start at around $1,000.

10. Never pay full price. You can often receive 10 to 20 perfect off the quoted price. And if you spend more than 500 dollars, they should throw in a frame and free delivery.

11. Talk With Those Who Have Gone Before. Talk with friends, family, co-workers, and anyone else you can find. What are their suggestions about what kind of bed to buy? See if you can find other people with similar health issues to see what has or has not worked for them. Ask your doctor for recommendations on what would suit your needs.

12. Make Sure Consider Your Significant Other. Take your significant other's needs into consideration. Do you like to spread out? Make sure you get a big bed. Does your significant other move a lot which wakes you up at night? Make sure you get a shock absorbent mattress. Do they have bad allergies? There are beds that cater to those needs.

Buying a new mattress should take you awhile. This is a big decision and a large investment that should last you about ten years. But don't stress. Simple consider the 12 suggestions above and you will be well on your way to making a wise choose.

Laundry Rooms Are the New Status Symbol

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 10:13:04 -0500

Laundry Rooms are a New Status Symbol

In the new homes, the washers and dryers are no longer stuck in the dark, basement corner of the house. Homeowners are demanding more out of their laundry rooms than ever before. Why? Well, most American families throw 8-10 loads of laundry in the washer per week. Plus, on average 20 million women and 10 million men spend hundreds of hours each year washing and drying clothes. These are the people that want their laundry rooms to be practical, organized, large enough to accommodate day-to-day needs, and well decorated. Laundry rooms are actually becoming the newest status symbol, seeing as some laundry rooms are worth more than $30,000.

Many families are actually making the laundry rooms into the messy chore, craft, sewing, and even gardening project rooms. Laundry rooms are in need of more than the typical cabinet, washer, and dryer. People want a folding station. They are now looking for DryAire drying cabinets, where sweaters and delicates can dry in a couple of hours rather than a couple of days. They want the SinkSpa, which is a jetted sink where hand-washables are washed by water jets. They desire ironing stations: including an adjustable board, place to store the hot iron, and automatic shutoff controls.

Now, perhaps you are simply looking for ideas to spice up your own laundry room. Maybe you're trying to figure out ways to make your rental property a winner. Or, perhaps you're getting your home into selling shape. Whatever your goal, the following will help you figure out ideas in how to make the laundry room pleasurably livable.

Before you start making all these plans to upgrade. Sit down in the laundry room for at least 15 minutes and really take some time to figure out your needs. What annoyances do you run into right now? Do you have any spot to hang clothes when it rains? Do you struggle to get the clothes from the washer into the dryer? Do you really need a utility sink? Do you tend not to iron because you have no place for the ironing board? Does the room need a more cheerful paint color? Does the floor need to be replaced?

1. Obtain a Practical Washing Machine. Some washers have a finger faucet under the rim, allowing you to easily wash detergent off your hands. Other washers feature "reminder chimes," signaling you that the clothes are done. A few of the newest washing machines have some very practical features: a quick-wash cycle that enables you to wash the shirt you need for the party in record time, a virtually noiseless direct-drive washing system, a delay-wash feature that starts the washer up to 19 hours after you load it, and a steady-spin feature that keeps the washer spinning, even if the load is unbalanced.

2. Install Cabinetry. Before you install anything, sit in the laundry room and figure out your current needs. Do you need open shelving units or cabinets with doors? Do you need spaces for various laundry baskets? Where can all of the detergents, spot removers, and dryer sheets be easily reached? Will you add a countertop to fold clothes?

3. Storage. An alternative to cabinetry is to Install Wire shelving. The wire shelving is strong, durable, easy to install, fits to your needs, and doesn't rust easily.

4. Ironing Station. Either set up an ironing board station or install a built-in ironing board. Both set-ups should have a permanent spot for the hot iron.

5. Laundry Sorting Baskets. Use laundry-sorting bins to organize your laundry by color and cycle. If you desire your family to follow your new system, make sure the laundry bins are clearly marked, such as "darks, delicates, towels, whites, dry cleaning, cold wash" etc. The more you organize, the more time you have to do other things.

6. Easily Accessible. If you are remodeling or building your home, make sure that your laundry room is easily accessible from the main activity areas of the house.

7. Windows. Install another window or two in your dark and dreary laundry room. Many people like their laundry windows to overlook the backyard play areas. Bay windows with a ledge not only take the "laundry room" feel away but also provide a usable ledge for baskets and folded laundry.

8. Change the Lighting. Change the one-light in the center of your ceiling to attractive track lighting.

9. Hanging Space. Many clothes require drip-drying, so either hang a rod or two near the floor drain or hang string from one side of the room to the other. Whichever way you choose, make sure that it is practical and out of the way. When using hangers, choose the plastic ones rather than the metal ones, as they tangle less and do not rust. If you have wire shelving, you can also easily hanging clothes from those. You could also place a rod next to the dryer that is equipped with plastic hangers to immediately hang items when they come out of the dryer.

10. Usable Space. Rolling carts are a practical addition to the laundry room. You can slip a thin one between the washer and the dryer, which can hold the detergent, stain stick, bleach, dryer sheets, etc. This keeps deep space usable and practical.

11. Small "Catch-all" Basket. Get a small basket to put next to the washer to keep items that are still in the pockets such as lipstick, money, receipts, etc.

12. Trashcan. Make sure that at trashcan is nearby to unload the lint tray, throw away used dryer sheets, and wrappers found in pockets

Great Way to have a Fun Time with Your "Staycation"

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 10:07:26 -0500

This Saturday, August 8th, the Laurel Street Fair is going on from 1-6PM near Mac Arthur Blvd.

There is a Farmers Market, a Large Kids zone with Rides, Animals and Games.

Various Artists providing Music and Enetertainment. Local Merchants and various food booths.

The weekend Weather is supposed to be heavenly so come on out and have a fun/inexpensive experience at the Laurel Street Fair.

Lake Merritt Festival

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 13:09:05 -0500

The Grand Lake Festival "Lakefest"
When: Saturday & Sunday, August 1 2, 10:00 a.m. 6:00 p.m.
Where: Lakefest, Lakeshore Ave. from Lake Park Ave. to Mandana Blvd., Oakland
Cost: Free! There will be face paintings and crafts for kids, live music and food from local Vendors. This is the 2nd year of the festival

Preparing Your Home For Sale

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:01:22 -0500

People used to buy a home only once or twice during their lifetime. That is no longer the case, with large families downsizing later in life and relocation being the key to career advancement for many people. The average family moves at least once every ten years, which means that there are always plenty of homes available for sale.

There are many tricks for finding the perfect home and buying it on your terms. This article will arm you with information that can take the hassle out of buying a home.

Financing - Things to Consider
Potential homebuyers usually go to their lender and complete the prequalification process. The lender considers their debt-to-income ratio and determines how much they can afford to pay. The lender usually overlooks your day-to-day spending habits and preferences. If you are like most people, you have a lifestyle to which you are accustomed, including hobbies, travel, vehicles and possibly even children.

The lender will not consider large expenses like college tuition, weddings for your children, or luxury vacations. Likewise, the lender will not ask you about your hobbies or your plans to purchase new furniture. Nevertheless, these are important considerations when you want to buy a home, because they impact the amount of money that you can spend on housing while still maintaining your lifestyle.

Prepare a budget ahead of time that will help you determine how much you can and want to spend on your mortgage payment each month. Unless you plan to change your lifestyle, you must have an accurate understanding of your financial habits. Often people buy a home as a result of a life change. Such changes are usually accompanied by expected changes in lifestyle and spending habits. Anticipate those changes and how much you will have available for your monthly mortgage payment.

Pre-Approval - Why it Matters
Potential buyers should never make an offer on a home until they have been pre-approved for a mortgage by their lender. Sellers prefer to work with buyers who are pre-approved, because when those buyers make an offer on a home, they intend to buy it.

Needs and Wants
Before you start shopping for a home, know what your new home has to have. If you need three bedrooms, do not waste your time with two-bedroom homes. However, if you need two bedrooms but would prefer to have three, consider two-bedroom homes that meet your other requirements.

When you know what you need in a home, you can narrow your selection process to those homes that meet your criteria. Sometimes this is advantageous, but it can be limiting.

Also consider the specific type of home that you need. If you are an aging adult, you probably cannot maintain a large lawn and garden, nor climb onto the roof when it is leaking. A home that is part of a community with a maintenance team might be necessary. Condos and townhomes might be a good solution. Similarly, if you have large dogs that need running space, a townhome or condo probably will not work for you. Choosing the style of the home is an individual decision and one of the first steps in finding a home that meets your needs.

Conclusion
Following this simple advice will help you shop for your next home as a very well-educated buyer. Knowing what you need and how much you can afford to spend ahead of time is the key to successful and happy homeownership.

Given the considerable amount of time needed to look at homes, complete the paperwork required, purchase a new home, and move, you probably will not want to move again soon. Make sure you pick the right home the first time! Hassle-free shopping and home buying is possible, but you need to know how to prepare for the process and identify the home that is best for your lifestyle.

6 Steps To Avoid when Moving Up To A Larger House

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 04 Jul 2009 17:57:26 -0500

".....you have to sell your present home at exactly the right time in order to avoid either the financial burden of owning two homes or, just as bad, the dilemma of having no place to live during the gap between closings...."

Unlike the experience of buying a first home, when you're looking to move-up, and already own a home, there are certain factors that can complicate the situation. It's very important for you to consider these issues before you list your home for sale.

Not only is there the issue of financing to consider, but you also have to sell your present home at exactly the right time in order to avoid either the financial burden of owning two homes or, just as bad, the dilemma of having no place to live during the gap between closings.

Six Strategies

In this report, we outline the six most common mistakes homeowners make when moving to a larger home. Knowledge of these six mistakes, and the strategies to overcome them, will help you make informed choices before you put your existing home on the market.

1. Rose-colored glasses

Most of us dream of improving our lifestyle and moving to a larger home. The problem is that there's sometimes a discrepancy between our hearts and our bank accounts. You drive by a home that you fall in love with only to find that it's already sold or that it's more than what you are willing to pay. Most homeowners get caught in this hit or miss strategy of house hunting when there's a much easier way of going about the process. For example, find out if your agent offers a Buyer Profile System or House-hunting Service, which takes the guesswork away and helps to put you in the home of your dreams. This type of program will cross match your criteria with ALL available homes on the market and supply you with printed information on an ongoing basis. A program like this helps homeowners take off their rose-colored glasses and, affordably, move into the home of their dreams.

2. Failing to make necessary improvements

If you want to get the best price for the home you're selling, there will certainly be things you can do to enhance it in a prospective buyer's eyes. These fix ups don't necessarily have to be expensive. But even if you do have to make a minor investment, it will often come back to you ten fold in the price you are able to get when you sell. It's very important that these improvements be made before you put your home on the market. If cash is tight, investigate an equity loan that you can repay on closing.

3. Not selling first

You should plan to sell before you buy. This way you will not find yourself at a disadvantage at the negotiating table, feeling pressured to accept an offer that is below market value because you have to meet a purchase deadline. If you've already sold your home, you can buy your next one with no strings attached. If you do get a tempting offer on your home but haven't made significant headway on finding your next home, you might want to put in a contingency clause in the sale contract which gives you a reasonable time to find a home to buy. If the market is slow and you find your home is not selling as quickly as you anticipated, another option could be renting your home and putting it up on the market later - particularly if you are selling a smaller, starter home. You'll have to investigate the tax rules if you choose this latter option. Better still, find a way to eliminate this situation altogether by getting your agent to guarantee the sale of your present home (see point number 5 below).

4. Failing to get a pre-approved mortgage

Pre-approval is a very simple process that many homeowners fail to take advantage of. While it doesn't cost or obligate you to anything, pre-approval gives you a significant advantage when you put an offer on the home you want to purchase because you know exactly how much house you can afford, and you already have the green light from your lending institution. With a pre-approved mortgage, your offer will be viewed far more favorably by a seller - sometimes even if it's a little lower than another offer that's contingent on financing. Don't fail to take this important step.

5. Getting caught in the Real Estate Catch 22

Your biggest dilemma when buying and selling is deciding which to do first. Point number 3 above advises you to sell first. However there are ways to eliminate this dilemma altogether. Some agents offer a Guaranteed Sale Trade-Up Program that actually takes the problem away from you entirely by guaranteeing the sale of your present home before you take possession of your next one. If you find a home you wish to purchase and have not sold your current home yet, they will buy your home from you themselves so you can make your move free of stress and worry.

6. Failing to coordinate closings

With two major transactions to coordinate together with all the people involved such as mortgage experts, appraisers, lawyers, loan officers, title company representatives, home inspectors or pest inspectors the chances of mix ups and miscommunication go up dramatically. To avoid a logistical nightmare ensure you work closely with your agent.

Summer Health Safety

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 04 Jul 2009 16:25:08 -0500

Summer Health Safety

When the temperature soars and humidity rises, it's time to take precautions to avoid health consequences such as heat exhaustion, heat stroke and overexposure to the sun. With heat exhaustion and stroke, the most susceptible are seniors, children, and people with chronic illnesses. However, everyone is at risk. The early symptoms of heat exhaustion can sneak up on us. Some people feel a bit light headed and weak and might have a touch of nausea. The serious problems develop when symptoms are ignored and additional fluids are not taken right away. The primary cause of heat exhaustion is dehydration and a loss of electrolytes such as sodium. Generally, try to stay well hydrated and take in extra salt (for those of you who can use salt). Drink even though you don't feel like it - you can't count on your thirst mechanism to prompt you. Here are the major symptoms of heat exhaustion and heat stroke and some safety tips to help you cope with health emergencies during the dog days of summer.

Symptoms of heat exhaustion include:

Body temperature usually normal or only slightly elevated.
Dry mouth.
Fatigue, weakness.
Dizziness.
Headache.
Nausea, sometimes vomiting.
Weak and rapid pulse.
Sweating.
Cool, clammy, pale skin.

NOTE: Symptoms take time to develop - sometimes several hours after dehydration occurs.

Treatments for heat exhaustion:

Get out of the sun and into a cool place.
Drink more fluids (electrolyte sports drinks may help), but don't drink too fast or you could become nauseous.
Eat salty snacks.
Rest.
Loosen clothing.

Be aware that heat stroke can come after heat exhaustion, but it can also develop quickly and independently if one's core body temperature rises too high.

Symptoms of heat stroke include:

Very high body temperature (103 degrees or higher).
Hot, dry, red skin.
No sweating.
Disorientation, hallucinations, delirium.
Rapid breathing and fast pulse, then slow breathing and weak pulse.
Convulsions.
Loss of consciousness.

NOTE: Symptoms can come on quickly. Heat stroke can occur within 10 - 15 minutes of the first symptoms. If treatment is not given immediately, permanent damage can occur to internal organs.

HEAT STROKE IS A MEDICAL EMERGENCY. CALL 9-1-1 OR TRANSPORT VICTIM TO A HOSPITAL IMMEDIATELY.

Immediate care for a heat stroke victim includes:

Move person to cool place indoors or in the shade outdoors.
Lower body temperature as soon as possible.
Remove clothing and wrap person in a wet sheet, or wet their cotton clothing.
Fan person with electric fan or manually (do not place wet items too close to electric fan).
Place ice packs or cold compresses on the neck, under armpits, and in the groin area.
If child is unconscious, carefully place them in cool water up to their neck.
If child is conscious, try to get them to drink cool water, slowly.
Person may not be able to drink if delirious (do not force them).

How to Reduce Crime in Your Neighborhood

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 04 Jul 2009 16:21:07 -0500

While we don't like to talk about it - or even think about it - crime is on the increase in North America, and throughout the world. The number of burglars, muggers, auto thieves, robbers, purse snatchers, etc., is growing at an alarming rate. Now you, as a resident, working with neighbors can help reduce the crime rate.

How? By organizing and/or joining a neighborhood program in which you and your neighbors get together to learn how to protect yourselves, your family, your home and your property. Working together, you can get the criminals off your block and out of your area.

There's safety in numbers and power through working with a group. You'll get to know your neighbors better, and working with them you can reduce crime, develop a more united community, provide an avenue of communications between police and citizens, establish on-going crime prevention techniques in your neighborhood, and renew citizen interest in community activity.

"Citizens Safety Projects" are set up to help you do this. It is a joint effort between private citizens and local police. Such programs have been started all over. Maybe one already exists in your community.

These organizations don't require frequent meetings (once a month or so). They don't ask anyone to take personal risks to prevent crime. They leave the responsibility for catching criminals where it belongs - with the police. This is NOT a "vigilante" group.

These groups gather citizens together to learn crime prevention from local authorities. You cooperate with your neighbors to report suspicious activities in the neighborhood, to keep an eye on homes when the resident is away, and to keep everyone in the area mindful of the standard precautions for property and self that should always be taken. Criminals avoid neighborhoods where such groups exist.

Through cooperation with local law enforcement agencies, some of the things you will learn - and all free - are:

What to do in an emergency.
How to best identify a suspicious person.
How to identify a vehicle being used in a suspected criminal activity.
Signs to watch out for before entering a house or apartment that may be in the process of being burglarized.
What to do in case of injury.
What to do about suspicious people loitering on your street.
How to identify stolen merchandise.
How to recognize auto theft in progress.
How to protect your house or apartment.
How to recognize a burglary in progress.
How to protect yourself and family - and much more.

It's easy to get your group started. All you have to do is contact your neighbors and arrange a date, place and time for the first meeting. Hold the meetings at your home or that of a neighbor. Try to plan a time that is convenient to most of your neighbors - preferably in the evening.

Then call your local police department. They will be happy to give your group informal lectures, free literature - and in many instances, window stickers and ID cards. Remember, police officers can't be everywhere. Your cooperation with them is for the benefit of you, your family, your neighbors and your neighborhood.

Oakland Named 4th Greenest City in the Nation

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 04 Jul 2009 16:12:41 -0500

Oakland Named 4th Greenest City in the Nation: Dow Jones Market Watch ranked Oakland # 4, between Berkeley (#6) and San Francisco (#2) in its recent review of the top greenest cities in the nation. "Residents of this port city have access to an abundance of fresh, organic food, much of which is locally sourced. It's also home to the nation's cleanest tap water, hydrogen-powered public transit and the country's oldest wildlife refuge. Oakland also plans to have zero waste and be oil-independent by 2020, and already gets 17 percent of its energy from renewable sources."

Redwood Heights/Oakland

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 21:37:47 -0500

REDWOOD HEIGHTS

Redwood Heights is centered around Redwood Road, which was once a logging road. Currently, Redwood Road is the designation for 35th Avenue starting about a mile or so north of MacArthur Boulevard between Victor Avenue and the Highway 13. It includes A Recreation center that doubles as an after-school daycare and one of the oldest and most active neighborhood associations.

The homes in Redwood Heights date mainly from the 1920s-1950s and vary greatly in style, from craftsman to "storybook" to ranch; the first development in the area was Avenue Terrace. There is a large rock/stone "obelisk" on the corner of 35th Ave and Victor that says "Avenue Terrace" and may have once been a marker for the development. There is also an Avenue Terrace park, which is located elsewhere in the neighborhood.

Redwood Heights Elementary is thought to be one of the highest regarded Elementary schools in the Oakland School System.

Wachovia Now Encouraging short Sales. Pick a Payment

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 06 Jun 2009 17:02:34 -0500

Wachovia Savings and Loan ( a Wells Fargo Company) has unveiled a new program for mortgage holders that received their loans from World Savings Bank through the Pick a Pay Mortgage program. A huge number of recipients of this program are now finding themselves under distress with regards to making the monthly payments on their homes and defaults on these mortgages are on the rise. Word Savings owned these loans outright (rather than having sold the loans to secondary party investors), when Wachovia bought World Savings they bought these loans as well. I have been able to have personal meetings with the Short Sale Home Division of Wachovia and can actually assist home owners that may have these loans sell their properties short of what they actually owe on the mortgage (short sale). The best part of this scenario is that Wachovia is most likely willing to allow the short sale with minimal penalties to the home owner (and is actually encouraging home owners to take this route rather than foreclosure). Contact us immediately for more information on this opportunity if you think you may have one of these pick and pay loans and are finding yourself under financial hardship. Dave Higgins (888) 627-4399 x.0 Keller Williams Realty. You can also go to THIS LINK and fill out the request form, we will contact you within 24 hours to see if we can be of service.

How To Protect Your Home While You Are Away

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 06 Jun 2009 16:59:23 -0500

How To Protect Your Home While Away

With a steady increase of crime in North America, home safety is a big issue these days. When leaving your home, practice the following advice - it could pay big, big dividends.

Going to the Market or out to Dinner?

A residence which presents a "lived-in" appearance is a deterrent to burglars. Never leave notes that can inform a burglar that your house is unoccupied. Make certain all windows and doors are secured before departing. An empty garage advertises your absence, so close the doors.

When going out at night, leave one or more interior lights on and perhaps have a radio playing (TV sets should not be left unattended). Timers may be purchased that will turn lights on and off during your absence.

Do not leave door keys under flower pots or doormats, inside an unlocked mailbox, over the doorway, or in other obvious places.

When Planning Vacations or Prolonged Absence

Discontinue milk, newspaper, and other deliveries by phone or in person ahead of time. Do not leave notes. Arrange for lawn care and have someone remove advertising circulars and other debris regularly. On the other hand, several toys scattered about will create an impression of occupancy.

Notify the post office to forward your mail or have a trustworthy person pick it up daily. Apartment house tenants should also heed this hint since stuffed mail receptacles are a give away when no one is home.

Inform neighbours of your absence so they can be extra alert for suspicious persons. Leave a key with them so your place may be periodically inspected. Ask them to vary the positions of your shades and blinds.

When you leave, do not publicize your plans. Some burglars specialize in reading newspaper accounts of other people's vacation activities.

11 Tips To Pass Your Home Inspection

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 06 Jun 2009 16:58:02 -0500

11 Things You Need to Know to Pass Your Home Inspection

"According to industry experts, there are at least 33 physical problems that will come under scrutiny during a home inspection when your home is for sale. Here are 11 you should know about if you're planning to put your home up for sale."

Homebuyers Want to Know Your Home Inside and Out

While homebuyers are as individual as the homes they plan on purchasing, one thing they share is a desire to ensure that the home they will call their own is as good beneath the surface as it appears to be. Will the roof end up leaking? Is the wiring safe? What about the plumbing? These, and others, are the questions that the buyers looking at your home will seek professional help to answer.

According to industry experts, there are at least 33 physical problems that will come under scrutiny during a home inspection. We've identified the 11 most common of these and, if not identified and dealt with, any of these 11 items could cost you dearly in terms of repair.

In most cases, you can make a reasonable pre-inspection yourself if you know what you're looking for. And knowing what you're looking for can help you prevent little problems from growing into costly and unmanageable ones.

11 Things You Need to Know to Pass Your Home Inspection

1. Defective Plumbing

Defective plumbing can manifest itself in two different ways: leaking, and clogging. A visual inspection can detect leaking, and an inspector will gauge water pressure by turning on all faucets in the highest bathroom and then flushing the toilet. If you hear the sound of running water, it indicates that the pipes are undersized. If the water appears dirty when first turned on at the faucet, this is a good indication that the pipes are rusting, which can result in severe water quality problems.

2. Damp or Wet Basement

An inspector will check your walls for a powdery white mineral deposit a few inches off the floor, and will look to see if you feel secure enough to store things right on your basement floor. A mildew odor is almost impossible to eliminate, and an inspector will certainly be conscious of it.

It could cost you $200-$1,000 to seal a crack in or around your basement foundation depending on severity and location. Adding a sump pump and pit could run you around $750 - $1,000, and complete waterproofing (of an average 3 bedroom home) could amount to $5,000-$15,000. You will have to weigh these figures into the calculation of what price you want to net on your home.

3. Inadequate Wiring & Electrical

Your home should have a minimum of 100 amps service, and this should be clearly marked. Wire should be copper or aluminum. Home inspectors will look at octopus plugs as indicative of inadequate circuits and a potential fire hazard.

4. Poor Heating & Cooling Systems

Insufficient insulation, and an inadequate or a poorly functioning heating system, are the most common causes of poor heating. While an adequately clean furnace, without rust on the heat exchanger, usually has life left in it, an inspector will be asking and checking to see if your furnace is over its typical life span of 15-25 yrs. For a forced air gas system, a heat exchanger will come under particular scrutiny since one that is cracked can emit deadly carbon monoxide into the home. These heat exchangers must be replaced if damaged -they cannot be repaired.

5. Roofing Problems

Water leakage through the roof can occur for a variety of reasons such as physical deterioration of the asphalt shingles (e.g. curling or splitting), or mechanical damage from a wind storm. When gutters leak and downspouts allow water to run down and through the exterior walls, this external problem becomes a major internal one.

6. Damp Attic Spaces

Aside from basement dampness, problems with ventilation, insulation and vapor barriers can cause water, moisture, mould and mildew to form in the attic. This can lead to premature wear of the roof, structure and building materials. The cost to fix this damage could easily run over $2,500.

7. Rotting Wood

This can occur in many places (door or window frames, trim, siding, decks and fences). The building inspector will sometimes probe the wood to see if this is present - especially when wood has been freshly painted.

8. Masonry Work

Re-bricking can be costly, but, left unattended, these repairs can cause problems with water and moisture penetration into the home which in turn could lead to a chimney being clogged by fallen bricks or even a chimney which falls onto the roof. It can be costly to rebuild a chimney or to have it repainted.

9. Unsafe or Over-fused Electrical Circuit

A fire hazard is created when more amperage is drawn on the circuit than was intended. 15 amp circuits are the most common in a typical home, with larger service for large appliances such as stoves and dryers. It can cost several hundred dollars to replace your fuse panel with a circuit panel.

10. Adequate Security Features

More than a purchased security system, an inspector will look for the basic safety features that will protect your home such as proper locks on windows and patio doors, dead bolts on the doors, smoke and even carbon monoxide detectors in every bedroom and on every level. Even though pricing will vary, these components will add to your costs. Before purchasing or installing, you should check with your local experts.

11. Structural/Foundation Problems

An inspector will certainly investigate the underlying footing and foundation of your home as structural integrity is fundamental to your home.

When you put your home on the market, you don't want any unpleasant surprises that could cost you the sale of your home. By having an understanding of these 11 problem areas as you walk through your home, you'll be arming yourself against future disappointment.

Buyers, Can You Envision a Home's potential?

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 06 Jun 2009 16:50:49 -0500

Shopping for a new home is an exciting, yet stressful, process. Most potential homebuyers visit and consider several different homes before they find what they consider to be the best match for their lifestyle and price range. Not every buyer is looking for a brand-new home with all of the most modern amenities, so it is important to know how to spot potential. This means looking past superficial flaws and knowing which amenities represent the best savings in the future.

It is a buyer's market. Many homes available for sale and that buyers are more likely to find the right home at the right price. Buyers can also be more particular about homes' amenities and condition.

Almost every potential homebuyer dreams of moving into the ideal home with no need for improvements or updates. However, great deals can be had when you are willing and able to look past the blemishes and see the true value of a home.

Buyers are looking for the right floor plan. This is a personal choice, and no two buyers are looking for exactly the same thing. This is good news for buyers. But keep in mind that sometimes it is possible to simply rearrange a floor plan or plan for a future addition to a home that offers everything else you are looking for.

When you are shopping for a home, pay particular attention to the following items.

Walls - You can quickly and easily update the color and appearance of your home's walls. Often potential buyers are not attracted to a home simply based on the color of the entranceway. Remember that homeowners may not have had time to repaint walls or remove outdated wallpaper or paneling. This is often true for estate-owned homes.

Floors - Modifying floors can be more expensive and time-consuming than painting walls, but the changes are not difficult or time-consuming. If the floors are carpeted and you prefer hardwood, find out whether the floors underneath are hardwood. If so, then the refinishing process could be quick and inexpensive. If the floors are currently exposed and you prefer carpeting, this is another quick change.

Closets - Closet space is a must-have in today's world. Home shoppers are often disappointed with older homes that have minimal closet space. Fortunately, closets are inexpensive and easy to add in a home. Also, consider external options like wardrobes. If storage closets are unavailable, take a look at the basement area and see where you might be able to add some storage space to the home.

Kitchen - A home's value is often judged by the size and usability of the kitchen. People spend a lot of time in the kitchen, and therefore it is one of the things that home shoppers are particular about. Even if a home does not have the perfect kitchen, consider the possibilities. Can a wall be removed to widen the room, or can the existing room be rearranged to better suit your requirements?

Never rule out a home without first trying to look past the cosmetic and sometimes functional flaws in order to see the home's true potential. This is particularly true when you are shopping on a tight budget. Great bargains exist for potential buyers who can use their imagination and be flexible about their requirements.

Not every home that you look at will work for your situation. Otherwise, every home would be identical! However, when you have a good eye and are able to see past the things that you do not like about a home, you can determine whether a few small improvements could make the positives far outweigh the negatives.

How to Shop For a Home Online

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 06 Jun 2009 16:47:26 -0500

Thanks to the power of the internet, today's savvy homebuyer has a considerable advantage over buyers in the past. Potential buyers can access important and valuable information to weigh the merits of locations, school districts and other factors that are important to them. Potential buyers also have the ability to look online at the homes listed for sale in the area where they want to live.

Knowing how to shop online for a home is important. Many brokers have websites that list homes that are available for viewing. Some sites let visitors view all homes currently listed for sale on the Multi-List. Other sites introduce potential buyers to for-sale-by-owner (FSBO) options, and there are even sites dedicated to foreclosed properties.

First determine which type of site will work best for you. If you have not limited your selection to foreclosures or FSBOs, then a site that lists all homes is the most convenient option. Such sites usually do not include FSBO homes. Only those foreclosed properties that are listed on the Multi-List appear on these sites. You may need to use more than one service to discover all the options that are available to you.

When looking for a home, enter search criteria into an online form to indicate specifically what you are interested in. You can limit your search to a specific zip code, city, school district, price range or number of bedrooms.

Once these criteria are entered, you receive a list of homes that meet the minimum criteria that you entered. The list probably will likely include many homes with one or more photos and a description of the home, including the number of bedrooms and bathrooms and the total square footage. You can click on a specific home in the list to get more detailed information, including additional pictures and, in many cases, the address and a map.

Most people generate a list of homes that pique their interest so that they can pass the information on to their realtor. Some people are beginning to purchase their homes online, often without even visiting the home.

Rising interest rates are causing bidding wars. Some buyers sit and wait for new listings to appear so that they can make their offer in first. This is not very common, but it is happening in areas where the real-estate market is booming.

Why would anyone purchase a home sight-unseen? For the same reason that people shop online for anything. It is convenient. People are working more hours than ever before and potential buyers are often too busy to view offerings in person. Some people think that the home-shopping process is fun, but others dread it and would prefer to handle any inconvenience rather than pound the pavement in search of the perfect home.

Viewing homes before visiting them remains more popular. However, the trend of bidding online or even completing the purchase online is growing in popularity, albeit only among small groups of people in certain geographic locations.

The savvy potential buyer will spend hours online looking at the various offerings. Most opt to visit the homes that they like well before making a face-to-face offer, much less an online bid.

Cooling a Home Naturally

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 06 Jun 2009 16:31:39 -0500

Keeping cool indoors when it is hot outdoors is a problem. The sun beating down on our homes causes indoor temperatures to rise to uncomfortable levels. Air conditioning provides some relief. But the initial costs of installing an air conditioner and the electricity costs to run it can be high. In addition, conventional air conditioners use refrigerants made of chlorine compounds, suspected contributors to the depletion of the ozone layer and global warming. But there are alternatives to air conditioning. This information provides some common sense suggestions and low-cost retrofit options to help you "keep your cool"- and save electricity.

Staying Cool

An alternative way to maintain a cool house or reduce air conditioning use is natural (or passive) cooling. Passive cooling uses non-mechanical methods to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature.

The most effective method to cool your home is to keep the heat from building up in the first place. The primary source of heat buildup (i.e., gain) is sunlight absorbed by your house through the roof, walls, and windows. Secondary sources are heat generating appliances in the home and air leakage. Specific methods to prevent heat gain include reflecting heat (i.e., sunlight) away from your house, blocking the heat, removing built up heat, and reducing or eliminating heat generating sources in your home.

Reflecting Heat Away

The most effective method to cool your home is to keep the heat from building up in the first place. Dull, dark colored home exteriors absorb 70% to 90% of the radiant energy from the sun that strikes the home's surfaces. Some of this absorbed energy is then transferred into your home by way of conduction, resulting in heat gain. In contrast, light colored surfaces effectively reflect most of the heat away from your home.

Installing a radiant barrier

Radiant barriers are easy to install. It does not matter which way the shiny surface faces - up or down. But you must install it on the underside of your roof - not horizontally over the ceiling, and the barrier must face an airspace.

For your own comfort while in the attic, install the radiant barrier on a cool, cloudy day. Use plywood walk boards or wooden planks over the ceiling joists for support. Caution: Do not step between the ceiling joists, or you may fall through the ceiling.

Staple the foil to the bottom or side of the rafters, draping it from rafter to rafter. Do not worry about a tight fit or small tears in the fabric; radiant transfer is not affected by air movement. The staples should be no more than 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 centimeters) apart to prevent air circulation from loosening or detaching the radiant barrier. Use a caulking gun to apply a thin bead of construction adhesive to the rafters along the seams of the foil barrier. This will make the installation permanent.

Roofs

About a third of the unwanted heat that builds up in your home comes in through the roof. This is hard to control with traditional roofing materials. For example, unlike most light colored surfaces, even white asphalt and fiberglass shingles absorb 70% of the solar radiation. One good solution is to apply a reflective coating to your existing roof. Two standard roofing coatings are available at your local hardware store or lumberyard. They have both waterproof and reflective properties and are marketed primarily for mobile homes and recreational vehicles. One coating is white latex that you can apply over many common roofing materials, such as asphalt and fiberglass shingles, tar paper, and metal.

A second coating is asphalt based and contains glass fibers and aluminum particles. You can apply it to most metal and asphalt roofs. Because it has a tacky surface, it attracts dust, which reduces its reflective somewhat.

Another way to reflect heat is to install a radiant barrier on the underside of your roof. A radiant barrier is simply a sheet of aluminum foil with a paper backing. When installed correctly, a radiant barrier can reduce heat gains through your ceiling by about 25%. (see box for information on installing a radiant barrier.)

Radiant barrier materials cost between $0.13 per square foot ($1.44 per square meter) for a single-layer product with a kraft-paper backing and $0.30 per square foot ($3.33 per square meter) for a vented multiflora product with a fiber-reinforced backing. The latter product doubles as insulation.

Walls

Wall color is not as important as roof color, but does affect heat gain somewhat. White exterior walls absorb less heat than dark walls, and light, bright walls increase the longevity of siding, particularly on the east, west, and south sides of the house.

Windows

Roughly 40% of the unwanted heat that builds up in your home comes in through windows. Reflective window coatings are one way to reflect heat away from your home. These coatings are plastic sheets treated with dyes or thin layers of metal. Besides keeping your house cooler, these reflective coatings cut glare and reduce fading of furniture, draperies, and carpeting.

Two main types of coatings include sun-control films and combination films. Sun-control films are best for warmer climates because they can reflect as much as 80% of the incoming sunlight. Many of these films are tinted, however, and tend to reduce light transmission as much as they reduce heat, thereby darkening the room.

Combination films allow some light into a room but they also let some heat in and prevent interior heat from escaping. These films are best for climates that have both hot and cold seasons. Investigate the different film options carefully to select the film that best meets your needs. Note: do not place reflective coatings on south facing windows if you want to take advantage of heat gain during the winter. The coatings are applied to the interior surface of the window. Although you can apply the films yourself, it is a good idea to have a professional install the coatings, particularly if you have several large windows. This will ensure a more durable installation and a more aesthetically pleasing look.

Blocking the Heat

Two excellent methods to block heat are insulation and shading. Insulation helps keep your home comfortable and saves money on mechanical cooling systems such as air conditioners and electric fans. Shading devices block the sun's rays and absorb or reflect the solar heat.

Insulation

Weatherization measures - such as insulating, weather stripping, and caulking - help seal and protect your house against the summer heat in addition to keeping out the winter cold. The attic is a good place to start insulating because it is a major source of heat gain. Adequately insulating the attic protects the upper floors of a house. Recommended attic insulation levels depend on where you live and the type of heating system you use. For most climates, you want a minimum of R-30. In climates with extremely cold winters, you may want as much as R-49.

Wall insulation is not as important for cooling as attic insulation because outdoor temperatures are not as hot as attic temperatures. Also, floor insulation has little or no effect on cooling.

Although unintentional infiltration of outside air is not a major contributor to inside temperature, it is still a good idea to keep it out. Outside air can infiltrate your home around poorly sealed doors, windows, electrical outlets, and through openings in foundations and exterior walls. Thorough caulking and weather stripping will control most of these air leaks.

Shading

Shading your home can reduce indoor temperatures by as much as 20°f (11°c). Effective shading can be provided by trees and other vegetation and exterior or interior shades.

Landscaping

Landscaping is a natural and beautiful way to shade your home and block the sun. A well placed tree, bush, or vine can deliver effective shade and add to the aesthetic value of your property. When designing your landscaping, use plants native to your area that survive with minimal care. Trees that lose their leaves in the fall (i.e., deciduous) help cut cooling energy costs the most. When selectively placed around a house, they provide excellent protection from the summer sun and permit winter sunlight to reach and warm your house. The height, growth rate, branch spread, and shape are all factors to consider in choosing a tree. Vines are a quick way to provide shading and cooling. Grown on trellises, vines can shade windows or the whole side of a house. Ask your local nursery which vine is best suited to your climate and needs.

Besides providing shade, trees and vines create a cool microclimate that dramatically reduces the temperature (by as much as (9°f [5°c]) in the surrounding area. During photosynthesis, large amounts of water vapor escape through the leaves, cooling the passing air. and the generally dark and coarse leaves absorb solar radiation. You might also consider low ground cover such as grass, small plants, and bushes. A grass-covered lawn is usually 10°f (6°c) cooler than bare ground in the summer. If you are in an arid or semiarid climate, consider native ground covers that require little water.

Planning Your Planting

Placement of vegetation is important when landscaping your home. The following are suggestions to help you gain the most from vegetation.

Plant trees on the northeast-southeast and the northwest-southwest sides of your house. Unless you live in a climate where it is hot year round, do not plant trees directly to the south. Even the bare branches of mature deciduous trees can significantly reduce the amount of sun reaching your house in the winter.
Plant trees and shrubs so they can direct breezes. Do not place a dense line of evergreen trees where they will block the flow of cool air around or through them.
Set trellises away from your house to allow air to circulate and keep the vines from attaching to your house's facade and damaging its exterior. Placing vegetation too close to your house can trap heat and make the air around your house even warmer.
Do not plant trees or large bushes where their roots can damage septic tanks, sewer lines, underground wires, or your house's foundation.
Make sure the plants you choose can withstand local weather extremes.

Shading Devices

Both exterior and interior shades control heat gain. Exterior shades are generally more effective than interior shades because they block sunlight before it enters windows. When deciding which devices to use and where to use them, consider whether you are willing to open and close them daily or just put them up for the hottest season. You also want to know how they will affect ventilation.

Exterior shading devices include awnings, lovers, shutters, rolling shutters and shades, and solar screens. Awnings are very effective because the block direct sunlight. They are usually made of fabric or metal and are attached above the window and extend down and out. A properly installed awning can reduce heat gain up to 65% on southern windows and 77% on eastern windows. A light colored awning does double duty by also reflecting sunlight.

Maintaining a gap between the top of the awning and the side of the house helps vent accumulated heat from under a solid- surface awning. If you live in a climate with cold winters, you will want to remove awnings for winter storage, or by retractable ones, to take advantage of winter heat gain.

The amount of drop (how far down the awing comes) depends on which side of your house the window is on. An east or west window needs a drop of 65% to 75% of the window height. A south-facing window only needs a drop of 45% to 60% for the same amount of shade. A pleasing angle to the eye for mounting and awning is 45°. Make sure the awning does not project into the path of foot traffic unless it is at least 6 feet 8 inches (2 meters) from the ground.

One disadvantage of awnings is that they can block views, particularly on the east and west sides. However, slatted awnings do allow limited viewing through the top parts of windows.

Louvers are attractive because their adjustable slats control the level of sunlight slats control the level of sunlight entering your home and, depending on the design, can be adjusted from inside or outside your house. The slats can be vertical or horizontal. Louvers remain fixed and are attached to the exteriors of window frames.

Shutters are movable wooden or metal covering that, when closed, keep sunlight out. Shutters are either solid or slatted with fixed or adjustable slats. Besides reducing heat gain, they can provide privacy and security. Some shutters help insulate windows when it is cold outside.

Rolling shutters have a series of horizontal slats that run down along a track. Rolling shades use a fabric. These are the most expensive shading options, but the work well and can provide security. Many exterior rolling shutters or shades can be conveniently controlled from the inside. One disadvantage is that when fully extended, the block all light.

Solar screens resemble standard window screens except they keep direct sunlight from entering the window, cut glare, and block light without blocking the view or elimination air flow. They also provide privacy by restricting the view of the interior from outside your house. Solar screens come in a variety of colors and screening materials to compliment any home. Although do-it-yourself kits are available, these screens will not last as long as professionally built screens.

Although interior shading is not as effective as exterior shading, it is worthwhile if none of the previously mentioned techniques are possible. There are several ways to block the sun's heat from inside your house.

Draperies and curtains made of tightly woven, light-colored, opaque fabrics reflect more of the sun's rays than they let through. The tighter the curtain is against the wall around the window, the better it will prevent heat gain. Two layers of draperies improve the effectiveness of the draperies' insulation when it is either hot or cold outside.

Venetian blinds, although not as effective as draperies, can be adjusted to let in some light and air while reflecting the sun's heat. Some newer blinds are coated with reflective finishes. To be effective, the reflective surfaces must face the outdoors. Some interior cellular (honeycombed) shades also come with reflective mylar coatings. But they block natural light and restrict air flow.

Opaque roller shades are effective when fully drawn but also block light and restrict air flow.

Removing Built-Up Heat

Nothing feels better on a hot day than a cool breeze. Encouraging cool air to enter your house forces warm air out, keeping your house comfortably cool. However, this strategy only works when the inside temperature is higher than the outside temperature.

Natural ventilation maintains indoor temperatures close to outdoor temperatures close to outdoor temperatures and helps remove heat from your home. But only ventilated during the coolest parts of the day or night, and seal off your house from the hot sun and air during the hottest parts of the day. The climate you live in determines the best ventilation strategy. In areas with cool nights and very hot days, let the night air in to cool your house. By the time the interior heats up, and the outside air should be cooler and can be allowed indoors.

In climates with day time breezes, open windows on the side from where the breeze is coming and on the opposite side of the house. Keep interior doors open to encourage whole house ventilation. If your location lacks consistent breezes, create them by opening the windows at the lowest and highest points in your house. This natural "thermo siphoning," or "chimney," effect can be taken a step further by adding a clerestory or a vented skylight.

In hot, humid climates where temperature swings between day and night are mall, ventilate when humidity is not excessive. Ventilating your attic greatly reduces the amount of accumulated heat, which eventually works its way into the main part of your house. Ventilated attics are about 30°f (16°c) cooler than unventilated attics. Properly sized and placed louvers and roof vents help prevent moisture buildup and overheating in your attic.

Reducing Heat-Generating Sources

Often overlooked sources of interior heat gain are lights and household appliances, such as ovens, dishwashers, and dryers. Because most of the energy that incandescent lamps use is given off as heat, use them only when necessary. Take advantage of daylight to illuminate your house, and consider switching to compact fluorescent lamps. These use about 75% less energy than incandescent lamps, and emit 90% less heat for the same amount of light.

New, energy efficient appliances generate less heat and use less energy.

Many household appliances generate a lot of heat. When possible, use them in the morning or late evening when you can better tolerate the extra heat. Consider cooking on an outside barbecue grill or use a microwave oven, which does not generate as much heat and uses less energy than a gas or electric range.

Washers, dryers, dishwashers, and water heaters also generate large amounts of heat and humidity. To gain the most benefit, seal off your laundry room and water heater from the rest of the house.

New, energy efficient appliances generate less heat and use less energy. When it is time to purchase new appliances, make sure the are energy efficient. All refrigerators, dishwashers, and dryers display an energy guide label indicating the annual estimated cost for operating the appliance or a standardized energy efficiency ratio. Compare appliances and buy the most efficient models for your needs.

Saving Energy

Using any or all of these strategies will help keep you cool. Even if you use air conditioning, many of these strategies, may not be enough. Sometimes you need to supplement natural cooling with mechanical devices. Fans and evaporative coolers can supplement your cooling strategies and cost less to install and run than air conditioners.

Ceiling fans make you feel cooler. Their effect is equivalent to lowering the air temperature by about 4°f (2°c). Evaporative coolers use about one-fourth the energy of conventional air conditioners.

Many utility companies offer rebates and other cost incentives when you purchase or install energy saving products, such as insulation and energy efficient lighting and appliances. Contact your local utility company to see what it offers in the way of incentives.

Cooling Strategies Checklist

Cooling strategies to consider:

lighten roof and exterior wall color
replace/coat roof with bright white or shiny material
install a radiant barrier
add reflective coatings to windows
insulate attic and walls
caulk and weather strip to seal air leaks
add shade trees, bushes, or vines
add exterior awnings and shades
add interior drapes and shades
ventilate attic
increase natural ventilation
isolate heat-generating appliances
replace heat-generating appliances
replace light bulbs with energy-efficient fluorescent's

Has The Oakland Real Estate Market Hit Bottom??

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 06 Jun 2009 16:24:56 -0500

I've been fielding numerous calls from both clients looking to enter the home buying market as well as owners of properties here in the area wondering if or when they will be able to consider selling. The answer really depends on what type of property is being sold and what neighborhood it is located in. Some of Oakland's neighborhoods with stood the current depreciation longer than others; therefore the devaluation has not been as drastic to this point.

Which areas and home types felt the hit first?
When discussing areas with the highest depreciation of value they tend to be the lower cost areas and neighborhoods that started to feel the slow down first. When looking at property types in more expensive areas of Oakland it was the condo market (starting with the smallest units first and moving up to the larger ones shortly thereafter).

Why did these homes and areas start dropping in value first?
When discussing which areas slowed first and why, you need to look at the lending market and the type of mortgage loans being sold to the public at the time. The zero down loans, 5% down loans and other loans being marketed to buyers who ordinarily would not be able to buy a home started to disappear. These loans tended to be a large majority of what was fueling the housing sales in these lower priced groups so when the loans began to dry up, these segments began to slow in sales first.

When and why did the upper-end neighborhoods begin to slow in value?
The top three items that come to mind when I think of these contributors are as follows:
First, we have the media bombarding all of us over and over again with all the impending doom that was foretold as coming (a self fulfilling prophecy?). Second, stated income loans went away. A stated income loan is one in which you declare your income but do not have to prove it via traditional methods of bank verification. This type of loan is heavily used by investors, and self employed buyers (I know this first hand as a real estate agent because it was the catalyst for our last three home purchases). Lastly and probably the most aggressive is the market collapse and loss of portfolio wealth.

What caused some neighborhoods in the Oakland area that had larger more expensive homes start slowing down before others?
The answer to this question is relatively simple to goes back to the oldest adage in Real Estate about what the three most important factors are that drive value - "location, location, location". Once buyers start to feel like they can be pickier, or that there is no hurry, they become more intent on buying a home that really fits all of their needs (not just some). Therefore, buyers who would in some markets choose to sacrifice a level yard or perhaps sidewalks decide not to forego these requirements and start waiting for homes that meet all these potential wants.

Is there more to come - Will the market continue to fall?
The answer to this is most likely yes. Before I go any further with this info, I want to say that this is a great time to buy. Prices have certainly taken a majority of the total depreciation and combined with this, interest rates are truly at a truly historic low. These two situations combined have lined up to be the perfect storm for buyers to succeed in! Properties will most likely drop further, especially in the upper end sectors, but not nearly to place homes have in the more aggressively impacted market segments (we can discuss why in a future blog). Another thing to note is that interest rates are predicted to go up in the next 12 to 18 months and when this happens it could counter any gains acquired by a buyer in that future market.

If you would like to discuss the purchase of a home in the greater Oakland area including the surroundings towns up the hwy 80 and hwy 580 corridors, we would be happy to help. We can be reached at 888-627-4399 x.0. You can also CLICK HERE to be direct to our VIP Buyers Page where you can fill out a request form to work with us as a VIP Buyer and gain access to hot properties not yet on the market before other buyers get a chance to see them.

FORENSIC LOAN AUDITS CAN SAVE STRUGGLING HOME OWNERS IN THE GREATER EAST BAY

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Sat, 23 May 2009 09:57:40 -0500

FORENSIC LOAN AUDITS CAN SAVE STRUGGLING HOME OWNERS IN THE GREATER EAST BAY

May 21st, 2009 by admin

Homeowners who are behind in mortgage payments and in danger of losing their homes now have a new tool to help them. It is called Forensic Loan Audits. It also can help those with adjustable rate mortgages who are having trouble getting their loans modified.
Performed by mortgage industry experts the audits discover if a lender violated the Truth in Lending Act or made any errors while preparing closing documents or neglected to adequately disclose the terms of the loans. According to the Truth in Lending Act even a small mistake in calculating the borrower's annual percentage rate could enable the homeowner to rescind the loan or get a lower interest rate through a loan modification..
Loan modifications typically save homeowners an average of 20-30% off their current monthly mortgage payment.
To offer Forensic Loan Audits in this area Realtors Dave and Carla Higgins have partnered with Certified Financial Protection Group. Certified guarantees to get a loan modification for their clients or they will refund all of the client's money.
For more information on obtaining an audit go to ReduceMyMortgageNow

How to Protect Your Appliances

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Fri, 08 May 2009 15:44:59 -0500

How to Protect the Appliances in Your Home

The power you get from the wall outlet is known as "120 volts AC power." The power companies try to keep that voltage uniform. Lightning, short-circuits, poles knocked down by cars, or some other accident can make the voltage jump to hundreds, even thousands of volts. This is what engineers call a "surge." A surge will last only a few millionths of one second (the "blink of an eye" is thousands of times longer than the typical surge). It is enough to destroy or to upset your appliances.

What can a surge do to your appliances?

Your appliances are designed to run on the normal 120 volts AC supply, with some tolerance for more or less, but they can be damaged, or their controls can be upset by surges. The result is then frustration and repair bills, and even a fire in rare cases.

Disturbances

Normal - This is the voltage that we all take for granted, every second of the minute, every minute of the hour, every hour of the day, every day of the year. But occasionally, for a short time...

The voltage falls below normal: a sag. Sags are unlikely to damage most appliances, but they can make a computer crash, confuse some digital clocks and cause VCRs to forget their settings.

The reverse of a sag is called a swell: a short duration increase in the line voltage. This disturbance might upset sensitive appliances, and damage them if it is a very large or very long swell.

Noise is a catch word sometimes used to describe very small and persistent disturbances. These do not have damaging effects but can be a nuisance.

There is, of course, the ultimate disturbance: an outage -no voltage at all!

These disturbances are different from surges, but they should be mentioned because the remedies are generally different. As we will see later, some available devices can help overcome both sensitive appliances in your home.

Your home contains all sorts, types or kinds of appliances. These not only include the traditional household helpers, but also the entertainment electronics, the family's computer(s), smart telephones, control systems (thermostats, garage door, etc.), and all the new things to come.

More and more, traditional large appliances in your home depend on very sophisticated electronics for their control. This can often make them sensitive to surges (as well as power interruptions).

To help sort out which types of your appliances might be damaged or upset, you can describe them in general terms depending on their connections: power, telephone, cable, or antennas. Each of these connections offers a path for a surge to come in, something that might be overlooked when the cause of damage is explained as a "power surge."

The first type includes electronics that are connected only to the power, such as a computer with no modem, a TV set with rabbit ears, a VCR not connected to cable TV, a table-top radio, a microwave oven, etc. Surge protection of these is not particularly difficult, and quite often it is already built-in by the manufacturer.

The second type, for which more protection might be needed, includes electronics that are powered, of course, from your power receptacles but also connected to an external communications system: telephone, cable TV, satellite receiver. A slightly different but similar situation, which also needs attention, is that of appliances connected to a household control system such as garage door opener, intrusion or fire alarm, automatic sprinklers, or intercom.

We will see later why the two kinds of appliances face different risks of being damaged and consequently might require different protection methods.

Where do surges come from?

There are two origins for the surges that occur in your power system: lightning surges and switching surges.

Lightning surges, occur when a lightning bolt strikes between a cloud and objects on earth. The effect can be direct --injection of the lightning current into the object, or indirect --inducing a voltage into electrical circuits.

We will look at ways of protecting your appliances against lightning surges that come by way of the wires -power, telephone, cable, etc. Protection of the house against the direct effects of lightning is done by properly grounded lightning rods. Note also that lightning rods are intended to protect the structure of the house and avoid fires. They do not prevent surges from happening in the wiring.

Direct lightning effects are limited to the object being struck and its surroundings, so that the occurrence is considered rare but it is nearly always deadly for persons or for trees. Well-protected electrical systems can survive a direct strike, perhaps with some momentary disturbances from which they recover (blinking lights and computers restarting during a lightning storm). The key word, of course, is "well-protected" and this information will help ensure your home has a well- protected electrical system.

Indirect lightning effects are less dramatic than from a direct strike, but they reach further out, either by radiating around the strike, or by propagating along power lines, telephone system and cable TV. From the point of view of the home dweller, unwanted opening of the garage door, or a surge coming from the power company during a lightning storm, would be seen as indirect effects.

Switching surges occur when electrical loads are turned on or off within your home, as well as by the normal operations of the power company. An analogy often given is the "water hammer" that can occur in your piping if a faucet is turned off too quickly: the electric current flowing in the wires tries to flow for a short time after the switch has been opened, producing a surge in the wiring, just like the surge of pressure in the piping.

How often, how far, how severe?

So, surges can and do happen!

These questions -how often do surges occur, how far do they travel before hitting your appliances, how severe are they - must be answered, as well as possible, so that you can proceed to the next step of taking calculated risks or making a reasonable investment by purchasing some additional protection. There are several ways of getting surge protection, from the simple purchase of a plug-in device from an electronic store, to the installation of protective devices for the whole house, to be done by an electrician or the power company.

How often?

You are probably best placed to answer that question if you have lived in your neighborhood for several years. Lightning is random but can strike more than one time at the same place. There are now sophisticated means to record the occurrence of individual lightning strikes; electric utilities and businesses seek the data to make decisions on the risks and needs for investing in protection schemes. The reason for mentioning "several years in your neighborhood" is that the frequency of lightning strikes varies over the years and the section of the country where you live.

How far, how severe?

The answers to these two questions are linked: a nearby lightning strike has more severe consequences than an equal strike occurring farther away. There is also a wide range in the severity of the strike itself, with the very severe or very mild being rare, the majority being in mid-range (a current of about 20,000 amperes for a short time) -but still much shorter than the blink of an eye.

Calculated risk or insurance?

The trade off:

A large stack of dollar bills and some change to replace your unprotected computer, if and when a lightning or some other surge destroyed it ...

... or use a small number of bills to purchase a "surge protector" for peace of mind and effective protection.

If you look at it from that point of view, the choice is probably easy and, most likely, you will be looking for one of those "surge protectors" -or some device with a similar name to do the same job, as explained next.

What's in a name?

When you walk in the computer store or electronic supply store, you might ask for something to protect your appliances against surges, but what to call it ? The devices that can protect against surges are called "surge-protective devices" by engineers, but that sounds too much like jargon to some people.

One name that seems to stick is "surge suppressor" with a variety of trademark names. The Underwriter's Laboratories chose to call them "Transient Voltage Surge Suppressor" and you might find that name or the TVSS acronym next to the listing on the product. Always make sure that the product has been tested by a product safety testing organization, such as UL, ETL, or CSA, as indicated by their labels.

You cannot really suppress a surge altogether, nor "arrest" it (although your utility uses devices they call "surge arresters" to protect their systems). What these protective devices do is neither suppress nor arrest a surge, but simply divert it to ground, where it can do no harm.

Decisions, decisions

Surge protectors come in many shapes and forms for many purposes, not just the plug-in kind that you find in the electronic stores. There are several ways to install them on your power supply: plug and play, do-it-yourself, hire a licensed electrician to do it, or even call on your power company to do it. Here is a run down on your options, and who does it:

Purchase one or more plug-in surge protectors
Install a surge protector at the service entrance panel
Have the power company install a surge protector next to the meter

Plug-in surge protectors

This is the easiest solution, and there are a wide variety of brands available in the stores. These come in two forms: a box that plugs directly into a wall receptacle, or a strip with a power cord and multiple outlets. Depending on the appliance, you will look for a simple AC power plug-in, or a more complex combined protector for AC power and telephone or cable. However, before you purchase the right protector for the job, you should think about some details.

There is another decision to make, concerning how a surge protector will power your appliance if the protective element should fail under extreme cases of exposure to a large surge or large swell. Most surge protectors are provided internally with some kind of fuse that will disconnect in case of failure. However, this disconnect can operate in two different ways, depending on the design of the surge protector: some will completely cut off the output power, others will disconnect the failed element but maintain the power output.

Quit and be protected or continue?

For you, it is a matter of choice: would you want to maintain the output power to your appliance -but with no more surge protection? Or would you rather maintain protection for sure -by having the circuit of the protector cut off the power supply to your appliance, if the protective function were to fail? To make an intelligent decision, you must know which of the two possibilities are designed into the surge protector that you will be looking for.

What are the lights telling you?

To help the consumer know what is going on inside the surge protector, many manufacturers provide some form of indication, generally by one or more pilot lights on the device. Unfortunately, these indications are not standardized, and the meaning might be confusing, between one, two - even three or four lights -where it is not always clear what their color means. Read the instructions!

More decisions ...

So far, we have looked mostly at the plug-in surge protectors because they are the easiest to install and they do not require the services of an electrician. The two other possible locations for surge protectors are the service panel (breaker panel) and the meter socket.

Service-panel surge protectors

Instead of using several plug in protectors -one for each sensitive appliance is sometimes recommended -you can install a protector at the service panel of the house (also called "service entrance" or "breaker box"). The idea is that with one device, all appliances in the house can be protected, perhaps with a few plug-in protectors next to the most sensitive appliances. There are two types of devices available: incorporated in the panel, or outside the panel.

Some breaker panel manufacturers also offer a snap in surge protector, taking the space of two breakers (assuming that there are blank spaces available on the panel), and easily installed by the home owner or by an electrician. However, there are two limitations or conditions to that approach:

The snap in protectors generally fit only in a breaker panel from the same manufacturer -possibly down to the model or vintage of the panel.

To install the snap in protector, you must remove the front panel (do turn off the main breaker before you do that). Most cities have codes allowing the home owner to do it, under some conditions. Check with your local authorities to find out if they allow you to do that, or hire a licensed electrician to do the installation for you. There are other surge protectors packaged for wiring into the service panel, either within or next to the panel. That kind of installation is best left to a licensed electrician.

At the meter socket

There might be a possibility that the power company in your area offers, as an option, to install a surge protector with a special adapter, fitting it between the meter and its socket (the dark band in the bubble of the picture). But that type of device and installation is out of the question as a do-it-yourself project, and will require cooperation from the power company, if they do offer the program.

Other types of outdoor surge protectors can be installed near the meter. That kind of installation must be done by a licensed electrician.

Check list

Before you decide which way you want to protect your appliances, there are other points to consider.

Where do you live?

This is an important question because the type of dwelling has some effect on how severe your surge problem might be. In a somewhat simplified way, consider three categories according to the arrangement of the utilities:

Detached house with power and telephone and/or cable TV drops at opposite ends of the house -the worst possible arrangement of all. But do not fret, there is a way of compensating, even after the fact, for this unfortunate situation, as we will see.

Detached house with all services (power, cable TV, phone) entering on the same side of the house.

Townhouse or apartment building with services entering the building at one point and fanned out to the different dwellings - about the same as the case of the detached house with all services on the same side.

What appliances are you using?

From the surge protection point of view, there are four kinds of appliances, with examples listed below by order of increasing sensitivity to surges, either because of their nature or because of their exposure:

Motor-driven and heating appliances
Washers (dish and clothes), food processors, power tools, heating and ventilation motors, pumps, etc.
Water heaters, space heaters, toasters, incandescent light bulbs

Free-standing electronic appliances
Computers without modem, table radios, TV sets with rabbit ears Compact fluorescent and modern tube type fluorescent lamps

Communications-connected appliances
Computers with modem, TV with cable or satellite antenna Fax machines, telephone answering/recording machines

Signal systems
Intruder alarms, garage door openers, sprinklers, intercom

Let's then take a quick look at each of these and see which might need some form of surge protection.

Motor-driven appliances and heating appliances

For each of these two categories, there can be two or more kinds, depending on the type of control used.

Mechanical control (ON-OFF switch, rotary control, etc.), no sophisticated key pad or other electronic control

Electronic control (programmable operation, key pad, display, etc.)

Appliances with mechanical controls are generally insensitive to surges and can be expected to withstand the typical surges that occur in a residence. Extreme cases, such as a direct lightning strike to the building, or one to the utility, very close, might cause damage.

Appliances with electronic controls can be more susceptible to damage than those with mechanical controls. Less traumatic but annoying can be upset memory in programmable appliances, although progress is being made in providing more built in protection.

Another difference to be noted is that of appliances permanently connected, as opposed to those in intermittent use. The risk of a damaging surge happening at the time of intermittent use is much smaller than that of an appliance which is on all the time.

What kind of appliances?

Electronic appliances

Power companies sometimes include as bill stuffers the suggestion to disconnect your appliances when a severe lightning storm is approaching. But that is no help if you are not in the house at that time. If, on the other hand, you are in the house, pulling out the power cord of an appliance that remains connected to a telephone line or cable TV might not be the best idea: you would lose the grounding of the appliance normally done by the power cord - possibly a safety problem should a surge come upon the telephone or cable TV.

This information should help you make the choices that fit your needs for surge protection. To make the right choice, it is useful to note that there are two types of electronic appliances. For each of these types, a different type of surge protector might be needed. These types include:

Simple, one link connection to power the system

Dual connection to both power and communications

One-link connections

Examples of one-link connection of powered electronic appliances include a TV set with "rabbit ears" antenna, a portable radio receiver, a computer with no modem connection or remote printer, a compact fluorescent lamp, etc. In the category of one-link connection we also find an old-fashioned telephone connected only to the telephone system.

Note that most of these have a two prong plug, which is their sole connection to the power system. For the TV set, a simple" AC plug in surge protector on the power cord would be sufficient. For just the Clamp, the cost of a surge protector " would be greater than the cost of simply replacing the lamp, if damaged by a surge -and therefore not be justified.

Two-link connections

This type of appliance is another matter. Typical of these would be a computer with a modem, a video system with cable or satellite link, a phone system directly powered from a receptacle (those with a large adapter plug and a thin cable with jack which goes to the appliance generally have sufficient internal isolation against surges).

The surge problem with this type of appliance is that a surge coming in from one of the two systems -power or communications -can damage the appliance, because of a difference in the voltage between the two systems when the surge occurs. This can happen even when there are surge protectors on each of the systems. Fortunately, you can find a special type of surge protector against the problem, as described next.

Equalizing differences

A simple solution to the problem of voltage differences for two-link appliances is to install a special surge protector that incorporates, in the same package, a combination of input/output connections for the two systems. Each link, power and communications, is fed through the protector which is then inserted between the wall receptacles and the input of the appliance to be protected. This type of surge protector is readily available in computer and electronics stores, and the electrical section of home building stores.

In addition to words on the package, it can be recognized by the presence of either a pair of telephone jacks or video coax connectors in addition to the power receptacles. Some models might have all three in the same package. Do note a few words of caution: (1) Read carefully the instructions or markings to find which is "in" and which is "out" for the telephone wires. It is important to note, before you buy the product, whether your wall receptacles are wired for three-prong power cords. Some of these combined protectors might not work very well if plugged into a 2-blade receptacle, using a "cheater" plug. (On some, an indicating light will signal that.)

Not just power-line surges

Among other disturbances on the power lines, there was a brief mention of sags and outages. You are certainly and unhappily well- acquainted with outages that can occur for any number of reasons beyond the control of your utility. Sags -a brief decrease of the line voltage -can be more subtle and do occur more often than the complete outage. You will notice these when the lights dim momentarily, digital clocks or VCR controls blink, or your computer shuts down then reboots -possibly losing some data.

Industrial and commercial users, health-care facilities and other critical systems have for many years used a device called "uninterruptible power supply" (UPS) that provides continuous power across a sag, or for the first portion of an extended outage (an independent local power generator set can then kick in).

The aggravation of consumers caused by sags and outages has created a mass market for consumer applications, making them affordable when looked at as protection against these annoying (but not damaging) disturbances -and with built in surge protection as a bonus in many cases. These consumer type UPSs have a small battery which is sufficient to ride through any sag and short outages. Some models even include the software to make a computer shut down in an orderly sequence in case of a long outage.

Surges in other systems

So far, we have looked at surges on the power line alone, or on a combination of power and communications lines. Surges of a slightly different kind can also happen in parts of other electrical systems that do not directly involve a power line. Examples of these are: the antenna for a remote garage door opener, the sensor wiring for an intrusion alarm system, the video signal part of a satellite dish receiver. Surges in these systems are caused by nearby lightning strikes.

These other systems just mentioned have not been the subject of standards on surge protection as much as power and telephone systems. Furthermore, protective devices for these other systems are not as readily available to consumers. It is more difficult to offer well-defined guidance on surge protection for these systems. Applying preventive surge protection schemes to an existing system might be difficult when the sensitivity of such a system to surges is not known. When considering installation of a new system, it would be a good idea to ask specific questions on that subject before signing the contract.

Protection for other systems

Some codes or practices aimed at providing safety for persons, when they are correctly applied, can also provide some equipment protection.

For instance, the general practice of telephone companies is to provide a surge protector as part of their services at the point where the telephone line enters the house (in dense urban environments, the National Electrical Code allows an exception). This protector is known as the "Network Interface Device" (NID) and you will find it on the outside of your house.

Another example of code requirement is that of cable TV systems for which the National Electrical Code requires proper safety-oriented grounding practices. The problem, however, is that in some cases, the video equipment can still be damaged by voltage differences.

With the increasing popularity of small-dish satellite receivers, installation by the user as do-it-yourself has also increased. Typical instructions for installation show how to make the connections, for instance in the figure at right. What the figure does not show is the need to provide a combined protector for power, telephone, and cable.

A well pump installed outside the house presents a double challenge: protection the pump motor itself against surges, and protection the house wiring against surges that might enter the house by the line that powers the pump. The first protection is generally built-in for modern submersible pumps. The second protection should be provided by surge protector installed at the point where the power line to the pump leaves the house, using protectors similar to those applied at the power line service entrance.

Intruder alarm systems using wires between sensors and their central control unit can be disturbed -and damaged in severe cases -by lightning striking close to the house. The wires necessary for this type of installation extend to all points of the house and act as an antenna system that collects energy from the field generated by the lightning strike, and protection should be included in the design of the system, rather than added later by the owner. Wireless systems are less sensitive than wired systems.

Is your Home Safe for Children?

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Fri, 08 May 2009 15:42:28 -0500

Is Your Home Healthy and Safe For Children?

Taking preventive measures to protect your children against unintentional injuries at home is essential. Each year more children die from preventable injuries than from all childhood diseases combined. With foresight and action, you can help prevent burns, cuts, falls, poisonings, drowning, choking, and other serious injuries.

Use these four checklists to ensure that your home is healthy and safe for the children living in it:

In the Bedroom

Install smoke alarms outside bedrooms and on every level of the home.
Test smoke alarms at least once a month and change batteries at least once a year.
Practice fire escape routes and identify an outside meeting place.
Place a baby to sleep on his or her back in a crib with no pillows or soft bedding underneath.
Use a crib that meets national safety standards and has a snug-fitting mattress.
Never use an electric blanket in the bed or crib of a small child or infant.
Keep small toys, balloons, and small balls away from young children.
Check age labels for appropriate toys. Make sure toy storage chests have safety lid supports.
To prevent strangulation, use safety tassels for mini blinds and avoid strings on children's toys and pacifiers.
Install carbon monoxide (CO) alarms outside bedrooms to prevent CO poisoning.

In the Bathroom

To prevent poisonings, lock away all medicines and vitamins, even those with child-resistant packaging.
Have syrup of ipecac on hand, but use only at the recommendation of a poison control center or physician.
Never leave a young child alone in the bathroom, especially in a bath.
Before bathing a child, always test bath water with your wrist or elbow to make sure it's not too hot.
To prevent scalds, set the water heater thermostat to 120º F and install anti-scald devices.
Make sure bathtubs and showers have non-slip surfaces and grab bars.
Keep electrical appliances, like hair dryers and curling irons, out of the reach of children and away from water.

In the Kitchen

Keep knives, plastic bags, lighters, and matches locked away from children.
Avoid fires and burns by never leaving cooking food unattended, turning pot handles to the back of the stove, and keeping hot liquids and foods away from the edges of tables and counters.
Make sure you and your children know the STOP, DROP, and ROLL procedure in case their clothes catch on fire.
Keep appliance cords unplugged and tied up. Replace any frayed cords and wires.
Securely strap young children in high chairs, swings, and other juvenile products.
Do not give young children hard, round foods that can get stuck in their throats - like hard candies, nuts, grapes, popcorn, carrots, and raisins.
Avoid scald burns by keeping children away from the hot water taps on drinking water coolers.

In all Living Areas

To prevent asthma attacks, eliminate sources of mold, dust, and insects, such as cockroaches. If you have a pet, keep it and its bedding clean and keep the pet off the furniture.
If you must smoke, avoid smoking in the house, and especially around children.
Make sure furnaces, fireplaces, wood-burning stoves, space heaters, and gas appliances are vented properly and inspected annually.
Use safety gates to block stairways (and other danger areas), safety plugs to cover electrical outlets, and safety latches for drawers and cabinets.
Keep children - and the furniture they can climb on - away from windows.
Install window guards (on windows that are not fire emergency exits).
To prevent falls, keep hallways and stairways well-lit and use non-slip backing for area rugs.
Keep cleaning solutions, pesticides, and other potentially dangerous substances in their original, labelled containers, and out of the reach of children.
If you have guns or rifles in your home, store the firearms and ammunition in separate containers and lock them out of the reach of children.
Learn First Aid and Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR).
Keep an updated list of emergency telephone numbers, including your local poison control center, physician and hospital emergency room, next to every phone in your home.
Make sure your family knows what to do during a natural disaster. In an earthquake, drop to the floor and get under something sturdy for cover; during a tornado, take shelter in a basement or an interior room without windows; and during a hurricane stay away from windows. Have handy supplies of food, flashlights, and water.

Winterize

Dave and Carla Higgins (Keller Williams Realty) — Mon, 01 Sep 2008 20:51:19 -0500

Let's Winterize!

This list of fall projects is designed to help you to winterize your home. With the cold season approaching, check out these valuable time- and money-saving tips to protect your home from damage caused by harsh winter weather. Your home is a significant investment and it is important to protect your assets wisely.

Winterizing varies by region. Some people need to be more concerned about snow and ice than others. Regardless of whether weather will be an issue for you this winter, this guide contains tips for regular home maintenance that every homeowner needs to perform. This is by no means a complete list. Only you know what needs to be done. Fall is the perfect time to take a walk around you home, note problem areas and set in motion a plan to correct potential problems before they begin, small problems before they grow, and large problems before they become uncontrollable!

In areas with freezing temperatures, drain and turn off outside spigots. Drain, dry and store garden hoses that you would like to use next season. Clean and store your patio furniture, gas grills and lawn equipment. Check to make sure that no critters are living in your foundation or attic. These are all simple things that you can do to make springtime more enjoyable, regardless of where you live.

Trim Limbs. Fall is the best time of year for trimming back unruly trees. During the winter, ice can form on trees and make the limbs significantly heavier. Therefore, cut back any limbs that touch your home, or they might pose a danger to siding or windows if they become loaded with snow or ice later in the season.

Look Through Your Windows. If your windows are foggy and cleaning them makes no difference, it is probably because a seal has been broken on multi-paned glass. The purpose of that seal is to insulate your home. With winter approaching and heating prices at an all time high, replace or repair window panes that have broken seals.

Patch Cracks. Walk around your home's exterior and look for cracks in the foundation and missing caulk around windows and other openings. Leaky windows and doors cause homes to lose heat, and they can grow as a result of ice formation in the coldest months. Fill cracks now before the weather gets colder.

Clean Gutter Clutter. This is perhaps one of homeowners' least favorite chores, but unless you want to install new gutters in the spring, you need to pull out the leaves and other debris in the fall. Many manufacturers offer solutions to cover your gutters and reduce the buildup of debris. They are not foolproof, but if you hate to clean out your gutters they may be worth the investment. Don't forget the downspouts, where ice can combine with debris to cause bursting and leaking. Gutters and downspouts were developed to keep water away from your home. If you skip this chore, you probably will spend a lot more time mopping the basement floors later in the winter, because all of that water and ice needs has to go somewhere.

Realtors know how to spot the difference between well-maintained and neglected homes. Some of the most common areas of neglect are those listed above. Homes that are well-maintained and properly winterized are a hot commodity! Don't risk your investment by being lax in your upkeep. In just one or two weekends, you can complete all of the items described above. Your home deserves it.

Recipes

Fall is the time for entertaining, whether indoors or outdoors. The next time you host a dinner party, knock your guests off their feet with this delicious pecan pie with a chocolate twist.

Chocolate Pecan Pie
10 Servings

Ingredients

Crust

· 1 Pillsbury® Refrigerated PieCrust (from 15-oz. pkg.), softened as directed on package

Filling

· 1 cup light corn syrup

· 1/2 cup sugar

· 1/4 cup margarine or butter, melted

· 1 teaspoon vanilla

· 3 eggs

· 1 (6-oz.) pkg. (1 cup) semisweet chocolate chips

· 1 1/2 cups pecan halves

Topping

· 2 tablespoons reserved semisweet chocolate chips

· 10 pecan halves

· Whipped cream

Method

Heat oven to 325˚F. Place the pie crust in a 9-inch pie pan as directed on the package for a one-crust filled pie.

In a large bowl, combine the corn syrup, sugar, margarine, vanilla and eggs; beat well. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the chocolate chips for the topping. Stir in the remaining chocolate chips and 1 1/2 cups pecans. Spread evenly in the pie-crust-lined pan.

Bake at 325˚ F for 55 to 65 minutes or until it is deep golden brown and the filling is set. Cover the edge of the crust with strips of foil after 15 to 20 minutes of baking to prevent excessive browning. Cool completely, about 1 hour.

Line a cookie sheet with waxed paper. Melt the 2 tablespoons of reserved chocolate chips in a small saucepan over low heat. Dip each of 10 pecan halves in chocolate. Place them on waxed-paper-lined cookie sheet. Refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes or until chocolate is set. Garnish the pie with whipped cream and chocolate-dipped pecans. Store in the refrigerator.

Apple and Spice Cake

When you need a quick dessert for a fall evening, this delicious apple and spice cake is the perfect accompaniment to any meal. Nobody can resist the wonder of apples, especially when they are mixed with this delicious spice blend.

Ingredients

Vegetable oil spray
3 eggs
1 1/2 cups (300g) sugar, white
3 cups (360g) unbleached flour, white
2 tsp (8g) baking powder
1 tsp (4g) baking soda
1 tsp (2g) cinnamon
1/2 tsp (1g) nutmeg
1/2 tsp (1g) allspice
1/2 tsp (3g) salt
1/2 cup (120ml) orange juice, frozen concentrate, thawed
1/2 cup (120ml) vegetable oil
1 tsp (5ml) vanilla extract
3 cups (390g) chopped apples (Granny Smith, Jonagold, or Yellow Delicious), peeled

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Prepare a 10-inch (25cm) Bundt or tube-type pan with vegetable oil spray.
Beat the eggs in a large bowl with an electric mixer until frothy. Add the sugar and beat well. In a small bowl, mix the dry ingredients together (flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and salt). Add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture; blend well. Add in the orange juice concentrate, oil and vanilla; mix together. The batter will be thick. Fold the apples into the batter until blended. Pour into the prepared Bundt pan.
Bake for one hour or until a wooden toothpick inserted into the cake's center comes out clean.
Cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Carefully remove the cake from the pan. Allow the cake to cool before serving.

Nutrition Facts

Calories: 267
Total Fat: 8g
% Calories from fat: 27%
Protein: 4g
Carbohydrate: 46g
Cholesterol: 37mg
Sodium: 232mg

Fun Facts

Sticking gum under your table will deter ants!
If you have ever endured a battle against ants, then you already know that these tiny creatures are not deterred by much. Vinegar, black pepper, red pepper, ant traps, and sprays often prove useless.
Then one day, a realtor noticed that all of the sudden there were no ants crawling on his backyard patio tables. This continued for about two weeks before he realized that his five-year-old had found a package of mint-flavored chewing gum. Not knowing what to do with it after a few minutes, the child had stuck it to the underside of the table. And, viola! No more ants. Simply place mint-flavored gum in strategic locations to with the battle against ants!

Magic Sponges Clean Anything!
Without mentioning any specific products, you probably know about the magic sponges and generic versions that are available in grocery stores. They work wonders!
The next time you need to remove red wine, grass stains, or fruit punch from clothing, try placing a white cloth under the dampened stain and then rubbing the stain with a dampened magic sponge. You'll be amazed at the results. For the toughest stains, try dampening the spot with OxyClean or detergent before using the magic sponge.

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3. Inadequate Wiring & Electrical Your home should have a minimum of 100 amps service, and this should be clearly marked. Wire should be copper or aluminum. Home inspectors will look at octopus plugs as indicative of inadequate circuits and a potential fire hazard.

7. Rotting Wood This can occur in many places (door or window frames, trim, siding, decks and fences). The building inspector will sometimes probe the wood to see if this is present - especially when wood has been freshly painted.

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Winterize

3. Inadequate Wiring & Electrical

Your home should have a minimum of 100 amps service, and this should be clearly marked. Wire should be copper or aluminum. Home inspectors will look at octopus plugs as indicative of inadequate circuits and a potential fire hazard.

7. Rotting Wood

This can occur in many places (door or window frames, trim, siding, decks and fences). The building inspector will sometimes probe the wood to see if this is present - especially when wood has been freshly painted.