When you are in the inspection process of your home buying transaction, there are several items that need to be done before the inspection. In this article I am going to list and explain these items for a seller, buyer, and real estate agent. With this information you will be more prepared for your home inspection, thereby helping the inspector perform a more thorough and complete home inspection.
Home Sellers
Let's start off with the sellers' inspection. Many homeowners today are having their homes inspected before they are put on the market. This is a very savvy marketing tool to help your home sell quicker and more profitably. For your home inspector to do the best job possible, he or she will need several things to be done before they arrive to check the house over.
If it happens to be winter, please make sure the driveway is clear of ice and snow. An inspector cannot see through this stuff, thereby limiting the inspection.
Please make sure that all utilities to the home are in operation mode. Inspectors do not light pilot lights, turn on water mains, or main panel breakers. If these are not in regular operating mode, the inspection will be limited and less beneficial to you.
Make sure attic access is not obstructed in any way. You inspector will need to get in here to check insulation, roof sheathing, trusses, etc.
I realize that if you are selling, you will be packing. However, please do not have every packed box crammed into a corner in the basement, or else your inspector will not be able to see the walls and foundation.
If permits are needed in your area for remodeling have copies of these ready. In some areas an inspector will need these.
Home Buyers
Now, if you are a buyer, your list will be a little shorter. But, it is still just as important to do your homework. You are paying for the inspection, so stay on top of everything.
Once you call the inspector and set a date and time, call your real estate agent and verify this time. Some inspectors do this for you and some don't (I call the agent myself, and they relay to the seller when we will be there).
If this is a vacant foreclosure or bank owned property, find out who you need to contact in order to get ALL utilities turned on and into normal operation mode. Again, inspectors will not turn these items on for you at the time of the inspection. If they are not on, they will be disclaimed as not inspected.
If you are having any specialty testing like lead, mold, water, septic done, try to do these on the same day if the house is occupied. Sellers will thank you for not making too many trips and inconveniencing them.
Real Estate Agents
Now let's focus on what the real estate agent needs to do before each home inspection. Some buyers may not realize what these people do for you.
If the inspector has not verified the appointment before 3:00 the day before the inspection, call to verify.
Help the buyer with getting utilities and the like into normal operating mode. This will allow a more thorough inspection and speed up the sale. It will work out better for you.
If you will not be attending the inspection, please let the inspector know how to gain access.
If there are going to be items not operating please call the client and explain this to them, so they may decide whether or not to reschedule the inspection. Most inspectors do not come back a second time for zero fee. Your buyer will be liable for this return fee, and probably upset about it.
I hope everyone can take something from this list and use it. I really do feel bad sometimes when the inspection is limited due to a lack of communication between all parties involved. If any of you have items that you feel should be on this list, please feel free to let me know. I am always willing to listen and learn how others operate.
Step 1. Make sure the ground alongside the foundation is sloped away from the house. Your yard should be graded to direct water to an appropriate drainage area.
Step 2. Keep the gutters clean and free of obstructions so that water is directed away from the house's foundation (see "eHow to Clean Gutters').
Step 3. Caulk any openings around basement windows or doors.
Step 4. Paint the basement walls with waterproof paint.
Step5. Install a sump pump that has an automatic switch. (Also consider installing a generator for your sump pump in case there is a power failure during a storm.)
Step 6. Consult an established waterproofing or landscape contractor if there is a need for more serious remediation projects, such as installing underground drainage or regrading your yard.
Problems with roofing material, either due to aging and wear or to improper installation are likely to be found in the majority of homes. This does not mean that most roofs are in need of replacement, but rather that most are in need of some type of maintenance or repair.
Ceiling Stains, Indicating Past or Current Roof Leaks:
The problem here is that you often can't tell if the roof still leaks, unless it is inspected on a rainy day. Some stains are merely the residual effects of leaks that have been repaired. There is also the possibility that ceiling stains were caused by a former plumbing leak in the attic.
Water Intrusion:
Water intrusion into basements or crawlspaces due to ground water conditions: Such problems can be pervasive, difficult to resolve, and sometimes very damaging to buildings. Correction can be as simple as re-grading the exterior grounds or adding roof gutters. Unfortunately, major drainage improvements are often the only practical solutions, requiring costly ground water systems such as French drains designed by experts such as geotechnical engineers.
Electrical Safety Hazards:
Electrical safety hazards, especially (but not always) in older homes: Examples are ungrounded outlets, lack of Ground Fault Control Interrupters (GFCI - shock protection devices), faulty wiring conditions in electrical panels or elsewhere in a building. Such problems may be the result of errors at the time of construction, but very often they are due to wiring that was added or altered by persons other than qualified electricians.
Rotten Wood:
Rotted wood at building exteriors and at various plumbing fixtures: In places where wood stays wet for long periods, such as roof eaves, exterior trim, of decks, around tubs and showers, or below loose toilets, fungus infection is very likely to attack, resulting in a condition commonly known as dry rot. If left unchecked, damage can become quite extensive.
Building Violations Where Additions and Alterations Were Constructed without Permits:
Homeowners will often tell a home inspector, "We added the garage without a permit, but it was all done to code." This statement is a red flag to most home inspectors, because no one could possibly know the entire building code, and the average person without professional involvement with the code is likely to know very little of it. Whenever an owner offers code assurance, I know that problems are likely to be found.
Unsafe Fireplace and Chimney Conditions:
These can range from lack of maintenance, such as neglecting to hire a chimney sweep, to faulty installation of fixtures. Most common among these are the lack of spark arrestors and substandard placement of wood-burning stoves. Free-standing fireplaces are typically installed by home owners and handymen, people without an adequate knowledge of fire safety requirements. The most common violations in these cases involve insufficient clearance between hot metal surfaces and combustible materials within the building. Fire hazards of this kind are often concealed in attics, where they remain undiscovered until a roof fire occurs. Two to Three Weeks before Moving Day
Faulty Installation of Water Heaters:
In most localities, less than 5% of all water heaters are installed in full compliance with plumbing code requirements. Violations can include inadequate strapping, improperly installed overflow piping, unsafe flue conditions, or faulty gas piping. It should also be remembered that today's water heaters are designed to have shorter longevity than in times of yore. In fact, leaks can develop in units that are only five years old.
Hazardous Conditions Involving Gas Heaters:
Most gas-fueled heaters are in need of some maintenance, if only the changing of an air filter or a long-overdue review by the gas company. In some cases, however, gas heaters contain life-threatening defects that can remain undiscovered until too late. These can range from fire safety violations to the venting of carbon monoxide into the building. A cracked firebox, for example, can remain undiscovered unless found by an expert or until tragic consequences occur.
Firewall Violations In Garages:
Special fire-resistive construction is required for walls and doors that separate a garage from a dwelling. Violations are common, either due to faulty construction, damage or alterations to the garage interior, or changes in code requirements since the home was built. In older homes, where firewalls are not installed, sellers and agents will often say that the building predates the code. However, the fire separation requirement for residential garages dates back to 1927.
Key things to watch for:
Water leaks. Look for stains on ceilings and near the baseboards, especially in basements or attics. Shifting foundations. Look for large cracks along the home's foundation. Drainage. Look for standing water, either around the foundation of the home of in the yard. Termites. Look for weakened or grooved wood, especially near ground level. Worn roofs. Look for broken or missing copings and buckled shingles as well as water spots on ceilings. Inadequate wiring. Look for antiquated fuse boxes, extension cords (indicating insufficient outlets), and outlets without a place to plug in the grounding prong. Plumbing problems. Very low water pressure, banging in pipes.
Home buyers have it drilled into their heads that they need to get a home inspection. In California, for example, real estate agents advise home buyers to do a home inspection 15 ways from Sunday.
Our purchase contracts contain two pages that talk about doing a home inspection, and those two pages are repeated in the buyer's broker agreement. That's just for starters. A home buyer does not close escrow without hearing about the need for a home inspection. But what does a home inspection report disclose? Home buyers are often clueless about home construction and its components, and have difficulty deciphering home inspection reports. Many don't know how to figure out which types of defects are serious or whether their home inspector checked all the essentials. But, by George, they got that home inspection!
Home Inspection Checklist Comparisons
All home inspections are different and can vary dramatically from state to state, as well as across counties and cities. Much depends on the home inspector and which association, if any, to which the home inspector belongs. Because I am most familiar with home inspections conducted in accordance with the standards of practice established by the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors, the following information is based on NACHI guidelines.
Home Inspection Checklist of Items Not Inspected Understand that California home inspectors are not licensed, nor are they licensed in many states. However, a home inspector's standard practice typically does not include the following, for which a specific license to inspect and identify is required:
Asbestos Radon, Methane, Radiation and Formaldehyde Wood-Destroying Organisms Mold, Mildew and Fungi Rodents Lead General
Home Inspection Checklist Items Structural Elements.
Construction of walls, ceilings, floors, roof and foundation. Exterior Evaluation. Wall covering, landscaping, grading, elevation, drainage, driveways, fences, sidewalks, fascia, trim, doors, windows, lights and exterior receptacles.
Roof and Attic.
Framing, ventilation, type of roof construction, flashing and gutters. It does not include a guarantee of roof condition nor a roof certification.
Plumbing.
Identification of pipe materials used for potable, drain, waste and vent pipes. including condition. Toilets, showers, sinks, faucets and traps. It does not include a sewer inspection. Systems and Components. Water heaters, furnaces, air conditioning, duct work, chimney, fireplace and sprinklers.
Electrical.
Main panel, circuit breakers, types of wiring, grounding, exhaust fans, receptacles, ceiling fans and light fixtures. Appliances. Dishwasher, range and oven, built-in microwaves, garbage disposal and, yes, even smoke detectors.
Garage.
Slab, walls, ceiling, vents, entry, firewall, garage door, openers, lights, receptacles, exterior, windows and roof.
Home Inspection Checklist Items Needing Service Home inspection reports do not describe the condition of every component if it's in excellent shape, but should note every item that is defective or needing service.
Water absorbs dissolved minerals, organic compounds and organisms as it moves through the air and soil into surface and ground water supplies. Unacceptable materials may find their way into the water due to some of our activities.
Public water systems are required to regular test and treat water for certain contaminants according to the rules and regulations set by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) under the Safe Drinking Water Act. Testing your water from a public system could indicate problems in your home's plumbing, connections or treatment system.
Most private systems are in rural or suburban areas. Private well owners are responsible for monitoring the quality of their water. Testing for possible contaminants on a regular schedule is the only way to be certain your water supply is safe.
Occasional problems do occur in the state's water supplies. Nuisance problems generally do not present a health risk, but the water may not be acceptable for all household activities. The most common nuisance problems are objectionable taste, odor, color and hardness. Once properly identified, these problems can often be corrected with water treatment systems.
Testing for every possible contaminant is unnecessary and expensive. This will help you identify the tests you need for your water supply. Testing confirms a problem exists so appropriate treatment can be recommended and you do not purchase expensive, unnecessary treatment systems.
Which Tests?
Your first concern is to provide your family with a safe source of water. Private well-owners should test for total coliform bacteria and nitrate. The presence or absence of bacteria or nitrate often indicates the safety of your water supply. Testing must be done to detect these contaminants since both are typically invisible, odorless and tasteless.
Coliform bacteria are found in the digestive tract of all birds and mammals. Most coliform bacteria are not harmful themselves, but point to an unsanitary condition and possible presence of disease causing agents. In some cases the bacteria are found in the pipes or well and not the water supply itself.
Sources of nitrate include food, water and soil. High levels of nitrate in the water supply can cause infant cyanosis (blue baby) in children under six months. Chronic, long-term risks are not known at this time. Like coliform bacteria, the presence of nitrate indicates the possibility other contaminants.
The following table lists problems found in water supplies and the appropriate tests to request. You should review your particular concerns with your county Health Department, Cooperative Extension office or water testing lab when selecting the appropriate tests.
Problem or Concern Test Appearance: Frothy, Foamy Detergents Black flakes Manganese Brown or Yellow Iron, Tannic Acid Stains on fixtures or clothing: Red or Brown Iron Black Manganese Green or Blue Copper Odor or Taste: Bitter Nitrate, Sulfates Rotten Egg Hydrogen Sulfide Metallic pH, Iron, Zinc, Copper, Lead Salty Total Dissolved Solids, Chloride, Sodium Septic, Musty, Earthy Total Coliform Bacteria,Iron Soapy Detergents (Surfactants) Gasoline or Oil Hydrocarbon Scan,Aromatic Volatile Organic Chemicals White deposits on Hardness pots and fixtures, soap scum Discoloration of Fluoride children's teeth Family or guests Total Coliform Bacteria, become ill Nitrate, Sulfates Water supply used for Nitrate infant less than six months old Corrosion of plumbing Corrosivity, pH, Lead, Iron, Zinc, Manganese, Copper Sulfates,Chloride
If You Suspect or Observe Test Contamination from: Old lead pipe or solder Lead, Copper, pH, Zinc Leaking fuel tank Hydrocarbon Scan, Aromatic Volatile Organic Chemicals Coal mining Total Dissolved Solids,Iron, Sulfates, pH, Corrosion Index, Manganese, Aluminum,Arsenic, Selenium Gas and oil drilling Total Dissolved Solids, Chloride, Sodium, Barium,Lead, pH, Corrosion Index, Strontium, Volatile Organic Scan Landfill Total Dissolved Solids, pH, Volatile Organic Scan, Heavy Metal Scan Septic systems Total Coliform Bacteria, Nitrate, Detergents, Total Dissolved Solids, Chloride, Sodium, Sulfates Land application of sludge Total Coliform Bacteria, Nitrate, Metals (Lead, Cadmium) Intensive agriculture Total Coliform practices Bacteria, Nitrate, Pesticide Scan, pH, Total Dissolved Solids Livestock feedlots Total Coliform Bacteria, Nitrate, Total Dissolved Solids, Total Organic Carbons Road salt Total Dissolved Solids, Chloride, Sodium
When To Test
Private wells should be tested yearly for coliform bacteria, nitrate, hardness and pH. Tests for iron, sulfates and chloride should be done every three to five years. If you are expecting a baby in your home you should test for nitrate at the beginning of the pregnancy. Depending on the test results, you may wish to test again before bringing the baby home and during the baby's first six months.
Even if you have a public water supply your water should be tested for total coliform bacteria if you make any changes in your plumbing or water treatment system which could introduce a contaminant. Before buying a new house have the water tested for bacteria and nitrate to insure its quality. Lending agencies often require the bacteria test before approving a loan.
If you have an old or shallow well, it is especially important to test your water regularly. Older methods of well construction, and the well's location in relation to septic or livestock facilities on many farms, makes older and shallow wells prone to contamination.
You should test for bacteria if your well head becomes flooded or submerged. Following a chemical spill or leak within 500 feet of your well, test your water for possible contamination. Also test your water supply if your neighbors have found contamination. Report unknown contamination or objectionable taste, odor or color in a private well to: Department of Public Health.
Testing
Discuss your water problems with your county Health Department or water testing lab. After contacting the lab your next step will be to take the sample. Follow the instructions from the lab closely. Keep a record of the test results. The records will show any change in your water quality you may not have noticed. Records are also necessary if you need to prove an outside activity, such as a spill or leak, affected your water supply.
Home screening tests
Currently on the market are screening tests to conduct various water tests in your home, such as tests for hardness, iron or nitrate. Many public agencies also conduct screening programs as a public service. Keep in mind these tests are a simplified version of the tests conducted by a lab. The results do not indicate if your water is safe to drink, only whether your sample contains the tested contaminant and the approximate level. These screening tests serve as useful tools for indicating if further testing is needed. If the results are positive, you should follow up with a test from a lab.
I have a very cool script I've downloaded to my host that allows me to do the following.
- Live Chat just like the pro's do it.
- Real Time track stats
- Alarm notification the moment someone enters my site. Alarm notification if someone decideds to chat with me. I don't even have to be at my computer. Turn up your volume and go watch TV. That's the really cool part.
The software has automatic reloads every 30 seconds. I can litterly sit and watch what page a potential client is reading all in real time. I also have the capability to send them a big box asking if they want to chat live with me. In just a week alone so far I have book multiple inspections from this feature. The potential client will also see that your online when they enter your site. This prompts some to talk to you live especially those who don't like direct phone contact. Go to the link above. Download the software. Unpack it. Rename the folder to livesupport. Drop the entire folder on your server. Open the folder and find the directions. It's very simple.
There are many features about a home that make a difference in the amount of energy needed for heating, cooling and lighting. Thus, these features can have a major impact on the amount of money you devote to maintaining the winter and summer comfort of occupants. This checklist will help you evaluate the energy-saving potential of various housing features.
Housing features to consider include: Site; House Design; Construction and Insulation; Heating and Cooling System; Color and Lighting.
Site House is located on south or southwest slope of hill (sun hits at angle so greatest solar heat is received through south windows in winter).
House is protected from winter wind by a hill or placement of garage/carport (air infiltration and heat loss are reduced when wind velocity is lower)
House is built into a hillside or partially into the ground (the relatively constant year-round ground temperature reduces winter heat loss through below-grade walls and provides a cooling effect during summer).
The long axis of the house runs east and west (allows more windows on the south to take advantage of winter sun, and south windows can be protected from summer sun by awnings, roof overhang, trees).
Large deciduous shade trees are planted on south and west side of house (to provide summer shade during the hottest part of the day, but allow winter sun to heat house)
Low evergreen trees and shrubs or a slatted fence are placed on side of house exposed to winter winds (to provide a wind break and reduce air infiltration,; avoid high evergreens on southeast, south and southwest as they block winter sun from house).
House Design Main roof ridge runs east and west (for better summer cooling and to provide a more desirable location for a solar heat collector in the future).
Shape of house is a slight rectangle (long rectangles L-shapes H-shapes T-shapes and U-shapes provide more outside wall surface for heatloss).
Entry halls for front and back doors can be closed off to form "vestibules" (thus reducing flow of cold air to inside and warm air to outside).
Main living area, where the living room, family room, dining room and kitchen are located, has as few partitions as possible (for best heat distribution).
Bedroom wing can be closed off (so heating and air- conditioning can be reduced when not needed during the day).
South windows have an overhang or awning deciduous trees or vines (to shade from summer sun but allow winter sun into the house).
East and especially west windows are kept to a minimum and/or provided with shade trees and tall shrubs, fences, awnings, tinted glass or other shading devices (to keep out early morning and late afternoon sun in the summer).
Amount of window area is no more than 10 to 15 percent of floor area (there is more heat loss through glass, even double or triple glazing, than through an insulated wall). Note: Before you decide to eliminate certain openings, keep in mind that local building codes may require that certain rooms of the house have windows or doors to the outside. This is for safety's sake, especially fire safety. Check with the building inspector in your local area or county to be certain of requirements.
Operable windows are placed so that cooling air can travel through the house in summer and escape at a high point of interior space (example: an operable window in an upstairs hallway will draw off warm air from the inside).
Attic ventilators are placed so air is drawn from cooler, shady parts of house (under eaves for inlet of cool air) and exhausted as high as possible (along ridge of roof or at attic gable ends). Vents allow the escape of unwanted moisture from attic in winter and lessen attic heat build-up in summer (be sure ventilation is adequate; at least one square foot of eave inlet and one square foot of gable outlet for EACH 150 feet of ceiling area is recommended. Periodically check vents, especially eave vents, to see they are not obstructed by insulation or other building materials.)
Chimney for fireplace is placed on an inside rather than an outside wall (so heat is lost to inside of house).
Fireplace is designed to heat the room (such as a circulating type with a glass fire screen door to prevent heat from the room being lost up the chimney) and has an outside air intake for combustion of wood to prevent furnace heated air from being used for combustion (newer fireplace systems can be designed so duct-work connected to the system provides outside air for combustion; check with fireplace dealers in your area).
Plumbing fixtures are located close to water heater(s) (to reduce heat loss from water as it moves from tank to point of use).
Water heater is located in a heated space (even a well-insulated heater loses more heat when placed in an unheated area).
Stair wells to second floor or basement have tightly sealed doors either at top or bottom of the stairs (to prevent "chimney" effect and loss of heat to upper area).
Multi-family housing has "extra" energy saving potential In this type of housing, each dwelling shares one or more walls with other dwelling units (in townhouses, duplexes, or apartments in mid- or high-rise buildings, less wall space in each unit is exposed to the outside, thus greatly reducing the amount of heat loss from each unit through its walls, or ceiling and floor in some cases).
Construction and Insulation
Insulated glass or storm windows used to reduce heat loss (storm windows and double-pane insulated glass will reduce heat loss by approximately 50 to 51 percent, while triple-pane windows will reduce heat loss by approximately 68 percent).
Storm doors used on all exterior doors (storm doors will reduce heat loss through exterior doors by approximately 35 to 40 percent).
Weatherstripping is installed around jambs of all doors and operable windows (heat losses due to infiltration can increase heating costs by sizeable amounts).
Caulking around all door and window frames is in good condition to reduce infiltration heat loss (caulking normally dries out with time and needs replacing).
Heating ducts/runs are wrapped with insulation except where they pass through heated rooms (metal runs in unheated crawl spaces, basements and attics lose heat to these cold areas). Note: If possible, the system should be designed so heat runs do not pass through unheated areas.
Hot water pipes are wrapped with insulation except where they pass through heated areas (metal or plastic pipes in unheated crawl spaces, basements and attics lose heat to these cold areas Note: If possible, the water supply system should be designed so pipes do not pass through unheated areas.
Attic and gable areas are adequately ventilated (see point above in design features section concerning attic ventilation requirements).
Sill sealer/filler has been placed around top of foundation wall below sill plate (to reduce infiltration into basement area).
Heating and Cooling System
Thermostat is located on an inside room partition (thermostats on exterior walls, near windows, near heat-generating appliances, in drafts or in sunlight may not react to actual room temperature, hence will not keep room temperature within limits desired).
Heating controls are designed to allow for zoned heating (permits heating of lightly used areas only as needed). Note: In some homes, heating runs or registers may be designed with dampers or valves which allow you to stop the flow of heat into seldom used rooms (these can be added by heating and cooling professionals); while in other homes, zoned heating may be achieved by the use of two thermostats, one controlling the bedroom area and one controlling the living area (a more expensive alternative).
Mechanical ventilators/fans in kitchen, bath and laundry fit tightly, are weatherstripped and have positive closure shutters (ventilators without shutters allow excessive backdrafts of cold air into home).
Furnaces are located as centrally as possible in house (to reduce lengths of both hot and cold runs to shortest possible distance).
Furnace design and location permit easy access to air filters (clogged filters reduce efficiency).
Humidity level of home is kept at 30 to 40 percent during the heating season (warm air feels warmer and more comfortable when humidity is present in the air; humidity can reduce static electricity problems as well). Note: Portable humidifiers located centrally in home will add humidity, or power humidifiers connected to forced air furnaces will add humidity.
Color and Lighting
Outside walls and roof are a light color if summer heat is a greater problem than winter cold, such as in uninsulated summer cabins (light colors reflect the sun's heat while dark colors absorb it).
Interior wall and ceiling colors are light tints or white (so both daylight and artificial light are reflected more than absorbed).
Floor covering is medium to light in color (so light reflectance will save on amount of artificial light needed).
Overhead lights in living areas and bedrooms provide good over-all light for less total wattage than several lamps; lamps can then be used for task lighting of areas as needed (simple fluorescent enclosed fixtures, flush with the ceiling, will provide excellent light with little energy use; incandescent fixtures may be preferred by some).
All light fixtures are located so they can be easily cleaned (dust on bulbs, tubes and fixtures reduces illumination).
As the home heating season approaches, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) urges consumers to have a professional inspection of all fuel- burning appliances -- including furnaces, stoves, fireplaces, clothes dryers and space heaters -- to detect deadly carbon monoxide (CO) leaks.
These appliances burn fuels -- typically gas, both natural and liquefied petroleum; kerosene; oil; coal; and wood. Under certain conditions, these appliances can produce deadly CO, but with proper installation and maintenance, are safe to use.
CO is a colorless, odorless gas produced by burning any fuel. The initial symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to flu, and include headache, fatigue, shortness of breath, nausea and dizziness. Exposure to high levels of CO can cause death.
"CO poisoning associated with using fuel-burning appliances kills more than 200 people each year and sends about 10,000 to hospital emergency rooms for treatment," said CPSC Chairman Ann Brown.
CPSC recommends the yearly, professional inspection include checking chimneys, flues and vents for leakage and blockage by creosote and debris. Leakage through cracks or holes could cause black stains on the outside of the chimney or flue. These stains can mean that pollutants are leaking into the house. Also, have all vents to furnaces, water heaters, boilers and other fuel-burning appliances checked to make sure they are not loose or disconnected.
Make sure your appliances are inspected for adequate ventilation. A supply of fresh air is important to help carry pollutants up the chimney, stovepipe or flue, and is necessary for the complete combustion of any fuel. Never block ventilation air openings.
CPSC recommends that every home should have at least one CO detector that meets the requirements of the most recent Underwriters Laboratories 2034 standard or International Approval Services 6-96 standard.
Consumers should also have the vent pipes on their heating systems inspected. Earlier this year, virtually the entire furnace and boiler industry together with the manufacturers of high-temperature plastic vent (HTPV) pipes joined with CPSC to announce a vent pipe corrective action program. The program's purpose is to replace, free of charge, an estimated 250,000 HTPV pipe systems attached to gas or propane furnaces or boilers in consumers' homes. The HTPV pipes could crack or separate at the joints and leak CO.
Consumers can check the vent pipes attached to their natural gas or propane furnaces or boilers to determine if they are part of this recall. They can be identified as follows: the vent pipes are plastic; the vent pipes are colored gray or black; and the vent pipes have the names "Plexvent", "Plexvent II" or "Ultravent" stamped on the vent pipe or printed on stickers placed on pieces used to connect the vent pipes together. Consumers should also check the location of these vent pipes. For furnaces, only HTPV systems that have vent pipes that go through the sidewalls of structures (horizontal systems) are subject to this program. For boilers, all HTPV systems are subject to this program. Other plastic vent pipes, such as white PVC or CPVC, are not involved in this program.
After checking the vent pipes, consumers should call the Corrective Action Program toll-free at (800) 758-3688, between 7 a.m. and 11 p.m. EDT, seven days a week, to verify that their appliance venting systems are subject to this program. Consumers with eligible systems will receive new, professionally installed venting systems free of charge. Additionally, consumers who already have replaced their HTPV pipe systems may be eligible for reimbursement for some or all of the replacement costs.
Air Barriers, Vapor Retarders and Weather-resistive Barriers:
Are They All the Same?
By Kami Farahmandpour, PE, RRC, RWC, CCS, CCCA; and Joshua J. Summers, SE, PE Building Technology Consultants PC All photos courtesy of the Building Technology Consultants PC
Proper moisture control in the exterior envelope of buildings primarily depends on controlling moisture flow in vapor form, and preventing moisture penetration in liquid form. While complete elimination of moisture condensation within wall assemblies under all climatic conditions may be difficult, the goal of a designer should be to prevent moisture accumulation, and to ensure that short-term exposure to moisture does not affect wall components adversely. Since the quantity of liquid moisture penetrating through the exterior wall deficiencies can be significantly larger than moisture condensation, the primary goal for building envelope design is to prevent moisture penetration through the exterior surface or the back-up materials. During the past several years, energy efficiency has been a top priority in designing and constructing building exterior walls. Although model energy conservation codes have been in existence for many years, their adoption by various states and municipalities has made energy-efficient design mandatory. Increasing energy efficiency in the exterior walls involves the use of more insulation (higher R-value) and various measures to reduce energy loss from infiltration/exfiltration. However, the use of more insulation increases the potential for condensation within the wall assemblies as the temperature differential between the inner and outer surfaces of the walls increase. For this reason, the proper use of vapor retarders and air barriers is critical for proper performance of exterior wall assemblies. In addition to issues with energy efficiency and moisture condensation, the design of any exterior wall assembly also should include provisions for controlling penetration of moisture in liquid form (i.e., rain). In barrier-type walls, such penetration is resisted entirely on the outer surface of the wall (such as a non-drainable EIFS system). However, in drainage-type systems (such as a masonry cavity wall), resistance to water infiltration is primarily provided within the wall assembly through the use of a weather-resistive barrier. This article summarizes the functional aspects of vapor retarders, air barriers and weather-resistive barriers. Air Barriers
There are many factors that produce differential air pressure between the interior and exterior of a building. These factors include stack effect on tall buildings, mechanical pressurizations/depressurization, and wind.
Differential air pressure results in air movement through the building envelope. Research and experience has shown that the vast majority of moisture condensation within wall assemblies is caused by movement of moist air from the warm side of the assembly to the cold side. As air moves through the assembly, it carries the humidity with it. Once the humid air reaches colder sections of the wall assembly, it condenses. Since air can move large quantities of moisture, condensation can be very significant. In addition to potential problems with condensation, air movement through exterior walls also significantly reduces their thermal performance and energy efficiency.
In order for an air barrier to be effective, all of its penetrations and seams need to be sealed. Lack of flashing around this louver will also render this air barrier ineffective if it is intended to serve as a weather-resistive barrier. Also, note that the sheet material has been stapled to the substrate and its seams are not taped. Stapling the membrane to the substrate typically does not provide adequate resistance to wind pressure.
Air barriers are designed to prevent the movement of air through a building's exterior walls. In many cases, the air barriers should not prevent moisture permeance (refer to the section on location of air barriers, vapor retarders and weather resistive barriers). However, there are cases where an air barrier can prevent moisture permeance as well as resist penetration of liquid water. Vapor retarders and weather-resistive barriers serve these functions primarily.
Although the 2006 (and prior versions of) International Building Code (IBC) published by International Code Council (ICC) does not require the use of air barriers in building exterior walls, their use has been mandated in Canada as of 1995 [IBC adopts by reference International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) that dictates the use of vapor retarders, but not air barriers].
Subsequently, a few states also required the use of air barriers in exterior walls. In 2006, the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers Inc. (ASHRAE) approved a revised version of AHRAE 90.1 "Energy Standard for Buildings Except Low-Rise Residential Buildings" that requires the use of air barriers. AHRAE 90.1 is adopted by reference in the IECC, which is in turn adopted in IBC. It is likely that the next version of the IBC (to be issued in 2009) will incorporate a new version of ASRAE 90.1 that will make the use of air barriers mandatory. Once various states and municipalities adopt the future versions of the IBC, the use of air barriers will be mandatory in those locations.
Asphalt saturated felt can be used as a weather-resistive barrier (but not an air barrier or vapor retarder). However, to function properly, penetrations through it should be properly flashed. In this photo, the louver penetration through the backup renders the weather-resistive barrier ineffective where it is most susceptible to water intrusion.
Air barriers come in a wide range of materials. The most popular air barriers (also known as building wraps) are mechanically fastened sheets, typically flash spun polyethylene. Other types of air barriers include self-adhered, rubberized asphalt sheets, and liquid-applied membranes of various chemical compositions. Performance criteria for air barriers are specified in various standards, including ASTM E 1677 "Standard Specification for an Air Retarder (AR) Material or System for Low-rise Framed Building Walls." Other standards, such as ASTM E 2357 "Standard Test Method for Determining Air Leakage of Air Barrier Assemblies," help in the evaluation of wall assembly performance in controlling air movements. There are several issues that need to be noted regarding the application of air barriers:
Some air barrier materials also can act as weather-resistive barriers . In some cases, they can act as weather-resistive barriers and vapor retarders, as well as their primary function. As such, it is imperative that the wall designer evaluates the proper location of the air barrier within the wall assembly and specifies the correct type of air barrier for the application.
Air barriers can only be effective if they are installed in a continuous manner with all penetrations and seams sealed. Unsealed penetrations through air barriers can render them ineffective.
If an air barrier also is used as a weather-resistive barrier (such as a building wrap), all penetrations through it have to be sealed and properly flashed to resist water penetration.
Air barriers will have to be designed and installed to resist wind loads. While they are concealed within the wall cavity, wind loads can transfer to the air barrier causing it to separate from its substrate. This is particularly a problem with mechanically-attached air barriers.
Most vinyl wall coverings act as a vapor retarder. In warm humid climates, application of a vapor retarder on the inner surface of the wall can result in condensation to form on the cool side of the wall (the interior). This typically results in mold growth on the gypsum sheathing.
Vapor Retarders
With the exception of metals, all building materials are permeable to water vapor (i.e., they allow movement of water vapor molecules through them when subject to differential water vapor pressure). Some materials, such as polyethylene, are less permeable than others, such as CMU or gypsum. Likewise, certain coatings are less permeable than other coatings.
The IECC defines a vapor retarder as: "A vapor-resistant material, membrane or covering such as foil, plastic sheeting, or insulation facing having permeance rating of one perm (5.7 X 10-11 kg/PA.s.m2) or less when tested in accordance with the desiccant method using Procedure A of ASTM E 96. Vapor retarders limit the amount of moisture vapor that passes thorough material or wall assembly." Although vapor permeance does not play as significant of a role in moisture control as air movement, the use of a vapor retarder in an exterior wall assembly is required by many model building codes, including IBC [Required by IECC, which is referenced in IBC]. In its 2006 version, the IECC requires the use of vapor retarders in cold climates with certain exceptions [Exceptions include Climate Zones 1 through 3, cases where moisture or its freezing do not damage construction materials, and where other means of condensation control in unventilated walls is provided].
It should be noted that a vapor retarder also can act as an air barrier if all of its penetrations and terminations are sealed properly.
Polyethylene sheets are often used as a vapor retarder. However, the use of a vapor retarder can impede evaporation of moisture that leaks into a wall cavity due to deficiencies in the wall. Note the water accumulation in the fiberglass batt insulation (behind the polyethylene sheet).
Weather-resistive Barriers
While vapor retarders and air barriers are intended to control moisture condensation within wall assemblies, weather-resistive barriers (WRBs) are intended to prevent the penetration of liquid water through the exterior walls. As such, they typically are made of materials that can resist water and are not damaged by exposure to water.
With the exception of certain types of walls, such as solid concrete or masonry walls, the IBC requires the installation of a WRB in exterior wall assemblies with drainage provisions. Such WRBs should be integrated with the mandated flashings to provide for "a continuous weather-resistive barrier behind the exterior wall veneer." There are many types of WRBs, with the most traditional type being asphalt-saturated felt installed in a shingle fashion. Many of the air barriers available on the market today also can act as a WRB. The WRB should be placed within the drainage cavity of a wall - typically attached to the back-up material - and integrated properly with the flashings and drainage system at various locations within the wall; the proper integration is critical for providing good resistance to water penetration. The WRB, flashings and the drainage system should be considered as a system of various components that work together to prevent water penetration through the exterior walls. One method to envision proper installation of the weather-resistive system is to consider the exterior cladding as only a decorative layer, such that if the exterior cladding material is removed, water still could not penetrate the exterior walls. In masonry cavity construction with CMU back-up, incorporation of a WRB on the back-up is important. While the IBC does not state clearly that CMU back-up is required to have a weather-resistive layer, it is the authors' opinion that CMU is not a weather-resistant material and can absorb large quantities of moisture that in turn can harm other building components, including interior sheathing and insulation materials.
Proper Locations for Air Barriers, Vapor Retarders and Weather-resistive Barriers
Locating the air barrier, vapor retarder and WRB within a wall assembly should be performed by the designer. The proper location of these components is critical in thermal and moisture performance of the building envelope. Given the changing requirements of model building codes, building envelope designers should be thoroughly familiar with the building code requirements and industry standards regarding these components.
In addition, designers should be aware of the different performance characteristics of various materials that are marketed as air barriers, vapor retarders and WRBs. As previously mentioned, there are many materials that can function as all three, or two out of the three. In order to properly evaluate the performance of exterior walls that incorporate air barriers, vapor retarders and WRBs, simple dew point analysis may not suffice.
More sophisticated computer modeling tools can be used to better evaluate the potential for condensation within wall assemblies, and to predict moisture accumulation. The use of such sophisticated modeling tools is more critical when specifying new wall assemblies without long-term track records, or when specifying building envelope assemblies for special-use buildings, such as cold storage facilities or swimming pools. Buildings located in severely cold, or hot and humid climates also should receive special attention during the design phase. Although there are countless variations of exterior building assemblies that can perform satisfactorily in various climate conditions, the authors recommend considering a particular wall assembly that can perform well in all climate conditions, depicted in Figure 1. As shown, a material that can perform as an air barrier, vapor retarder and WRB - many products such as self-adhering rubberized asphalt sheets or liquid-applied membranes and some mechanically-attached sheet membranes can perform this function - is installed on the exterior face of the back-up material and is integrated with all wall flashings. Moisture-resistant insulation, such as extruded polystyrene, is then placed on the outside of this layer. The drainage layer and cladding are then placed on the outer side of the wall assembly.
Figure 1: A conceptual wall assembly that resolves moisture condensation issues in combined climates where both warm humid and cold conditions are encountered.
While this wall assembly can add to the overall thickness of the wall, it presents several advantages. One major advantage is that the vapor retarder, WRB and air barrier are all combined into one material. Also, this wall assembly does not pose any risk of moisture condensation or accumulation regardless of the climate zone. As previously mentioned, many other types of wall assemblies can provide adequate moisture performance. However, they are more susceptible to moisture condensation than the example provided. For instance, in cold climates, the vapor retarder typically is placed on the warm side of the wall, directly behind the interior finishes. During cold weather, warm and moist interior air is driven toward the exterior, but is stopped by the vapor retarder. Since the vapor retarder is on the warm side of the insulation, the moist air will not condense. On the other hand, during warm weather, the warm moist exterior air is driven toward the interior. Again, the vapor barrier stops the movement. However, since is it now on the cold side of the insulation, condensation can form within the wall. In this case, it is important that any weather-resistive barrier or air barrier placed over the exterior sheathing be permeable (not act as a vapor retarder), to allow water vapor to escape the wall cavity. For these reasons, proper placement of the vapor retarder, air barrier and WRB in a wall is critical.
Summary
With the emphasis on thermal performance of building exterior walls, the proper design, selection and installation of vapor retarders, air barriers and WRBs is important. While these three components are intended to serve three, distinct functions, they can be combined into one or two materials depending on the properties of the materials. However, please note that improper selection or placement of these materials can lead to moisture failure. The proper placement of air barriers, vapor retarders and WRBs requires an analysis and understanding of the moisture movements through various wall components. The appropriate selection of the materials for these components also requires a thorough understanding of each material's physical properties.
Kami Farahmandpour is the principal of Building Technology Consultants PC. His expertise is concentrated in the evaluation and repair of building envelopes, including various types of exterior walls, waterproofing systems and roofs. Among his many professional activities, he is currently serving a three-year term as an associate director of the Sealant, Waterproofing and Restoration Institute (SWR Institute). He also is the co-author of "A Practical Guide to Weatherproofing of Exterior Walls," developed by SWR Institute.Joshua J. Summers is a principal structural engineer at Building Technology Consultants PC. He has evaluated and developed repair designs for numerous masonry building components. These projects have included both solid and cavity wall construction with brick, CMU, terra cotta, limestone and clay tile materials.
I can so relate to all posted below. Brought back many memories! Make sure you read it all! :)
THOSE Born 1920-1979
READ TO THE BOTTOM FOR QUOTE OF THE MONTH BY JAY LENO. IF YOU DON'T READ ANYTHING ELSE --- VERY WELL STATED!
TO ALL THE KIDS WHO SURVIVED the 1930's, 40's, 50's, 60's and 70's!!
First, we survived being born to mothers who smoked and/or drank while they were pregnant.
They took aspirin, ate blue cheese dressing, tuna from a can, and didn't get tested for diabetes.
Then after that trauma, we were put to sleep on our tummies in baby cribs covered with bright colored lead-based paints.
We had no childproof lids on medicine bottles, doors or cabinets and when we rode our bikes, we had no helmets, not to mention, the risks we took hitchhiking.
As infants & children, we would ride in cars with no car seats, booster seats, seat belts or air bags.
<script type="text/javascript"></script>
Riding in the back of a pick-up on a warm day was always a special treat.
We drank water from the garden hose and NOT from a bottle.
We shared one soft drink with four friends, from one bottle and NO ONE actually died from this.
We ate cupcakes, white bread and real butter and drank Kool-aid made with sugar, but we weren't overweight because...
WE WERE ALWAYS OUTSIDE PLAYING!
We would leave home in the morning and play all day, as long as we were back when the streetlights came on.
No one was able to reach us all day. And we were O.K.
We would spend hours building our go-carts out of scraps and then ride down the hill, only to find out we forgot the brakes. After running into the bushes a few times, we learned to solve the problem.
<script type="text/javascript"></script>
We did not have Playstations, Nintendos, X-boxes, no video games at all, no 150 channels on cable, no video movies or DVDs, no surround-sound or CDs, no cell phones, no personal computers! NoInternet or chat rooms.......
WE HAD FRIENDS - and we went outside and found them!
We fell out of trees, got cut, broke bones and teeth and there were no lawsuits from these accidents.
We ate worms and mud pies made from dirt, and the worms did not live in us forever.
We were given BB guns for our 10th birthdays, made up games with sticks and tennis balls and, although we were told it would happen, we did not put out very many eyes.
We rode bikes or walked to a friend's house and knocked on the door or rang the bell, or just walked in and talked to them!
<script type="text/javascript"></script>
Little League had tryouts and not everyone made the team. Those who didn't had to learn to deal with disappointment. Imagine that!!
The idea of a parent bailing us out if we broke the law was unheard of. They actually sided with the law!
These generations have produced some of the best risk-takers, problem solvers and inventors ever!
The past 50 years have been an explosion of innovation and new ideas.
We had freedom, failure, success and responsibility, and we learned HOW TO DEAL WITH IT ALL!
Disclaimer: ActiveRain Corp. does not necessarily endorse the real estate agents, loan officers and brokers listed on this site. These real estate profiles, blogs and blog entries are provided here as a courtesy to our visitors to help them make an informed decision when buying or selling a house. ActiveRain Corp. takes no responsibility for the content in these profiles, that are written by the members of this community.
;)
;)
