Massachusetts Home Inspections

New Massachusetts Oil Tank Law extended to 9/30/2010

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 14:53:08 -0700

On June 24, a House and Senate Conference Committee passed an amendment that extends the deadline for compliance from July 1, 2010 to September 30, 2011. It is important to note that the extension applies only to the homeowner oil line compliance deadline and not the deadline for homeowner insurance offerings.

Why not call Bonsai Inspection Company today at 781-760-8162 to set up an oil tank evaluation?

For only $99, Bonsai can help assist you in determining your compliance with these regulations, as well as performing a multi-point tank safety check that includes an ultrasonic tank integrity test - all as part of the TankSure program!

As part of the TankSure program, your MA oil tank qualifies for valuable discounts, including: a $1,000 proactive tank replacement warranty, and homeowner's insurance discounts.

With the new law coming into effect, now is a great time to have your heating oil tank checked and upgraded/replaced if necessary.

For more info about the TankSure program today, click here.

Call Bonsai Inspection Company today at 781-760-8162 to set up your appointment.

10 Common Myths about Mold and your health

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:10:20 -0700

Media reports have linked indoor mold exposure to everything from asthma to headaches. So what's the real scientific evidence that exposure to mold in your home actually can cause physical symptoms? A recent review of scientific literature about mold-related diseases found that many common claims just don't hold up under scrutiny.

#1: The term "Toxic mold" - popular reports about the health effects of mold are likely to include the near-famous term "toxic mold." But that term can be misleading, the experts say. Only certain mold spores produce toxins, and only under certain circumstances - just because a particular mold can produce toxins doesn't mean it will. Lastly, even if a mold is producing toxins, a person must breathe in a sufficient, and in most cases, large, dose to be affected. It is highly unlikely that anyone could inhale enough mold in their home or office to receive a toxic dose.

#2: The term "Black mold" - the equally infamous cousin to 'toxic mold', this term, technically, does not exist. In actuality, there are a lots of molds that are black (or look black). In fact, many molds classified by frightened homeowners are actually a very dark green. The type of black mold that made the news years ago, associated with a lot of ill health effects, is called Stachybotrys. However, most molds that appear 'black' are fairly common and generally not of concern. The take-home message here is that 'black' molds do not always equal 'bad'.

#3: Mold causes asthma - While allergic responses to inhaling mold are a recognized factor in lower airway disease such as asthma, studies show that outdoor mold is much more likely to cause problems for asthmatics than indoor molds.

#4: Mold causes allergies - The link between mold and allergies is even weaker, the experts say. Current research doesn't provide a persuasive case that exposure to mold in the outdoor air plays a role in allergies, and studies linking indoor molds to upper airway allergy are even less compelling.

#5: Mold causes skin rashes - Exposure to molds doesn't contribute to atopic dermatitis, or rashes.

#6: Mold causes sinusitis - There's no clear-cut evidence that sensitivity to mold causes chronic sinusitis, nor are there conclusive data to show that mold-killing antifungal drugs such as amphotericin, applied to the nasal passages, are an effective treatment for sinusitis.

#7: Mold causes infection. Superficial fungal infections, such as toenail fungus or jock itch, generally result from fungi that develop inside the warm, moist environments found in shoes or tight garments. Thrush can develop inside the mouths of people with weakened immune systems, such as those who have AIDS or cancer. These infections generally are not the result of exposure to mold in the home or workplace.

#8: Mold causes irritation. Mold found indoors, even inside damp buildings, is not likely to cause irritation of the eyes or throat -- and if it does, the effects are short-lived. Symptoms or signs persisting weeks after exposure and those accompanied by complaints related to the nervous system, brain, or whole body (such as those attributed to chronic fatigue) can't be pinned on the irritant effects of mold exposure.

#9: Mold causes immune system damage. There is no credible evidence to suggest that environmental exposure to mold damages the immune system. The experts warn against immune-based tests given to look for intolerance to mold and other substances in the environment-so-called multiple chemical sensitivity. The authors specifically advise against using blood tests that look for a wide range of non-specific changes in the immune system. They also discourage using tests of autoantibodies, which are abnormal antibodies that the body sometimes produces in reaction against its own tissues. These tests are expensive and do not provide useful information that will help to diagnose or manage diseases related to mold, they say.

#10: Mold causes hypersensitivity pneumonitis. This uncommon inflammation of the lungs, an example of which is Farmer's Lung, is caused by exposure to an allergen, usually organic dust that may come from animal dander, molds, or plants. A person generally develops this condition only after high-dose or prolonged exposure, or both, to mold or other allergens.

Much of the hoopla over mold exposure came in the wake of Hurricane Katrina, the experts note in their report, which appeared in the Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology. The flood-ravaged areas of the Gulf Coast, sadly, have provided a natural laboratory, which enables medical researchers to address lingering questions about the health effects of mold.

The research cited in this article was provided by: Bush RK, Portnoy JM, Saxon A, Terr AI, Wood RA The medical effects of mold exposure.
J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2006 Feb;117(2):326-33. Review. Erratum in: J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2006 Jun;117(6):1373.
PMID: 16514772 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]

"Chinese Drywall" Issues in the Home - What you can do about It?

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 12:04:15 -0700

Although extreme, and not quite the norm, some individuals are experiencing that Chinese drywall, sometimes referred to as "contaminated drywall" or "tainted drywall," has negative impacts on health and on metal products in a home. This issue is being studied by a few organizations including the U. S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR), and the U. S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD). This column is provided to give you some insight to an issue that can negatively impact the health of those living in the home as well as impacting metal items in the home.

The Problem

Photo 1. Chinese drywall is prevalent in the states highlighted in red.

In a press statement, these organizations noted that they are working together to determine if homeowners with Chinese drywall in their homes face potential health or safety risks. As of January 25, 2010, the CPSC had received 2833 incident reports related to drywall from 37 states, the District of Columbia, and Puerto Rico. More than 90% of reports are from Florida (59%), Louisiana (21%), Mississippi (6%) Alabama (5%) and Virginia (4%). In addition, the CPSC has worked hard in an outreach program to identify as many instances of homes that have registered complaints about their drywall and to date the total combined estimate of number of homes impacted is upwards of 5000 homes.

The first incident report was received by the CPSC in December of 2008. Homeowners have reported that the drywall in their homes has caused bad odors, corrosion, and sickness. In some cases the problems have driven the occupants from their homes. The complaints include:

Headaches
Itchy eyes
Scratchy, burning throats
Nose bleeds
Sinus infections
Breathing problems
Skin irritations

In addition to these issues, there are also reports of corrosion of metals, including wiring, due to the toxins from the drywall. If your gut reaction is to presume that only those products touching the drywall have a potential to be impacted and to exhibit corrosion, you are most certainly incorrect. Any product in the home, touching the drywall or not, can exhibit corrosion problems simply due to the toxins in the air. Complaints of corrosion have been received by the CPSC for the following:

Air conditioning evaporator coils. In this case, corrosion leads to pitting of the tube and leaking of Freon. Your Green radar/alarm should have just alarmed.
Smoke alarms sounding in the middle of the night without any apparent cause.
New appliances including televisions, microwave ovens, refrigerators, dishwashers and computers suddenly stop working for no apparent reason.

The CPSC has completed various reports that contain information on the impact to electrical components. They are finding that the harvested components from affected homes are exhibiting significant corrosion of copper wiring and a lesser degree of corrosion to other parts of the electrical equipment such as the screws and metal and conductors contained within. No indications of significant overheating of conductors or other conductive parts have been recorded. No fires have been attributed to this problem as well. This report and more can be found at the CPSC web site (http://www.cpsc.gov/info/drywall ).

What Can You Do?

Finding out that your home has this issue is not an easy pill to swallow. If you are the inspector who has to tell the homeowner there is an issue, it's not an easy message to deliver. First, let's consider what you, the homeowner, can do.

1. Consider the age of the home or work completed in the home. Was the home constructed or was drywall added since 2001?

2. Look for corrosion of metal components in the home. Look for black corrosion on any copper tubing, including that which you find on the conditioner coils in refrigerators. Look at air conditioning units as well. If the air conditioner cannot cool the home, this may be an indicator that a leak may have occurred and the refrigerant is escaping into the atmosphere. Coil failures with this problem typically occur every 6-14 months

3. Look for more metal corrosion. Any blackening of copper wires, ground wires, uncoated copper pipes and fittings, chrome-plated bathroom fixtures, silver or copper jewelry and even the back of the mirrors which have a foil. (Caution should be used when looking at electrical wires. Educate homeowners not to touch any copper wires or try to remove any receptacle plates or loadcenter covers. Safety first.)

You can go a little further to help identify a problem by looking for markings on the back of the drywall. Find locations where the back is exposed and look for the word "China" in big letters somewhere, indicating that its origin is China. Other than doing this, you are into testing the air or the gypsum for certain chemical components. There is handheld equipment on the market that can detect Strontium levels. If these levels exceed 2,000 mg/kg (ppm), the gypsum used in the drywall may have been mined in China.

If you suspect your home has a problem with its drywall, a report can be filed with the CPSC through their web site: http://www.cpsc.gov/info/drywall. Use this link as well to learn more about the issue as further studies are conducted and alerts arise.

For More Information

Remember, this problem is still unfolding and more reports and study results will be available. The CPSC has spent more than $3.5 million on this investigation constituting more than 3.5% of their annual budget. The CPSC has established a web site specifically focusing on this issue and can be found at the following URL: www.cpsc.gov/info/drywall. Also, the CDC has established a site and can be found at the following URL: www.cdc.gov/nceh/drywall . Arm yourself with as much knowledge on the topic as possible.

For Mold Remediation & Prevention, You Need an Expert

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 11:32:19 -0700

We've all heard about the health dangers of mold in residential and commercial buildings. Having measures in place to prevent or control the growth of mold is of course prudent, and mold remediation is a necessary and often difficult task. For mold prevention, control and remediation, it is best to rely upon an expert in the field.

Preventing & Controlling the Growth of Mold
Mold prevention is necessary because mold has the potential to cause a number of health problems, including allergic reactions, asthma attacks, and lung inflammation. Mold growth occurs when there is a buildup of water or excessive moisture in an area within a structure. This can often be prevented by making sure that plumbing does not leak, and that the humidity inside a building is kept at a level between 30-50%.

Humidity and moisture buildup can be prevented by ensuring that the ventilation system is sufficient and working properly, and that air conditioners, dehumidifiers, and exhaust fans are used in areas prone to high humidity, such as the bathroom, or in the kitchen when cooking or cleaning. Insulation will also help to control the buildup of moisture. If there is water damage within a home or building, water damaged materials need to be discarded and replaced, and dehumidifiers need to be used to dry the area quickly.

Why Mold Remediation Experts Are Necessary
Walls or ceilings that show a discoloration, and the presence of a musty smell are signs that there may be water damage. Buildings are especially susceptible after heavy storms, or if there is a plumbing leak. A mold remediation expert should be called if there is suspected water damage or mold contamination. The expert can identify and assess the water damage and the potential for mold, and determine what needs to be done, as well as recommend improvements for the future prevention of mold.

Only a mold remediation expert will possess the skills, experience, and the specialized equipment necessary to thoroughly check a structure for mold, such as a moisture meter, which can detect moisture in building materials. Mold remediation experts also possess the proper disinfectants needed to fight and destroy mold spores, as well as the recommended respirators, goggles, and other protective clothing. Mold remediation should never be attempted by anyone who is not an expert and does not possess the proper equipment, or you are exposing yourself to significant health risks.

Mass Water Resources (MWRA) releases 2010 water quality report

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 16:53:01 -0700

The Massachusetts Water Resources Authority has begun mailing its Annual Water Quality Report to every household in its service area. The report is required by the federal Safe Drinking Water Act and updates consumers on last year's water quality test results.

In the latest round of testing, the MWRA system was again below the Lead Action Level with the lowest levels ever. And tests have also shown that there are no traces of pharmaceuticals in the drinking water supplied by MWRA.

MWRA distributes the report to over 800,000 homes in 41 cities and towns. Community-specific inserts also provide information about municipal water systems. The reports are being mailed between now and the end of June. Look for it in your mailbox.

The report is available on-line at http://www.mwra.com/water/html/awqr.htm.

New Massachusetts Oil Tank Safety Law to go into effect 6/1/2010

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Thu, 03 Jun 2010 12:49:18 -0700

The new Massachusetts Oil heat law goes into effect on Jul. 1st! If you currently have an oil tank on your property or are listing/selling a property with an oil tank, you may be affected.

This law has two major provisions that require:

the installation of either an oil safety valve or an oil supply line with protective sleeve on systems that do not currently have these devices; and
insurance companies that write homeowner policies to offer coverage for leaks from heating systems that use oil.

Most homeowner policies do not currently include such coverage, leaving many to pay for costly cleanups out of their own pocket. Although it is mandatory that insurance companies offer this coverage, the insurance is an optional purchase for homeowners. The effective date for both provisions is July 1, 2010.

Who must take action?

Owners of 1- to 4-unit residences that are heated with oil must already have or install an oil safety valve or an oil supply line with a protective sleeve. Installation of these devices must be performed by a licensed oil burner technician. Technicians are employed by companies that deliver home heating oil or are self-employed. It is important to note that heating oil systems installed on or after January 1, 1990 most likely are already in compliance because state fire codes implemented these requirements on new installations at that time.

What will an upgrade cost?

The typical cost of installing either an oil safety valve or oil supply line with a protective sleeve ranges from $150 - $350 (including labor, parts, and local permit fees).

For those households that meet certain income criteria, financial assistance of up to $300 is available through the Low Income Home Energy Assistance Program (LIHEAP). For more information on financial assistance, see the Department of Housing and Community Development Web site at http://mass.gov/dhcd or call them at 1-800-632-8175.

For more information about oil tank testing, please check out my Oil Tank Testing page.

Continuous Radon Monitoring vs. “the two little vials” – Facts and Myths about Radon Gas Testing – Part II

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 20:21:49 -0800

This is part two of my little 'mini-series' on the differences between the two most common real estate transaction/radon gas testing methods. In part I, I addressed the primary similarity that being accuracy. In this blog installment, I'll be sticking to differences. I'd like to cover a few pros and cons of each.

Cost - Advantage: Vial test

Most good quality kits cost the average inspector $20-$30, so you're typically looking at a cost in the $50-$75 range. For the machine test, factoring in the system's cost (upwards of $600) and the 'tie up' time, and you've looking at a typical $100-$150 per test.

Speed - Advantage: Machine test

We all know time is king in this business. Assuming a minimum 48-hour test interval, for the vial test results the typical turnaround is 5-7 business days from the start of placement. The machine? Wait 48 hours, show up, push button, done.

Simplicity - Advantage: Vial test

Don't discount simplicity as a potentially significant advantage. The vials require no calibration, don't care if the power is off or turned off, have no cords, don't need a back-up battery, and have no moving parts or 'down time'. If it 'can' go wrong with an electronic device, at some (most likely inopportune) time, it will.

"Tamper-proof" - ness - Advantage: Machine test

While no test is 100% tamper-proof, the machine test can be. I have added temperature and relative humidity monitoring to my system to make testing virtually fool-proof. The vials require a small leap of faith that tampering has not occurred, however the test is not as easily fooled as it may seem.

So, like most other things in life, we see that there are plusses and minuses to the majority of A vs. B choices we are faced with every day. In the end, it all boils down to each individual clients specific needs and finances. As long as accuracy remains the same, no test method presents a clear advantage over the other.

I hope this little 'mini-series' on radon testing has shed a little light on this rapidly developing aspect of the real estate industry.

Realtors of America - Send me your opinion!

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 16:51:19 -0800

Hello Realtor friends:

This past month, I have had the good fortune to be invited to speak at a very prestigious local Realtor traning center.

Over my travails as a home inspector/mold investigator, many times I have heard "I did not know that", or "I just learned something new today" from both customers and Realtors.

I have attended several Realtor networking functions over the past few years (I am an affiliate member of my local board of Realtors) and many times someone has said to me - "we (as a group) really need/would love to have someone to help educate us about ______ (insert topic)."

So now my chance has come. I have an hour to speak, and the open option as to what topics to cover.

So why not try to cater specifically to the audience?

If any of you could, please describe what topic(s) you would most like to be covered if you were attending an educational seminar hosted by a well-rounded home inspector. Be as brief as you like. Your feedback will help me determine what topics I will cover.

You most likely wont be at the seminar, but at least you will be contributing to the collective knowledge of your peers.

Much obliged ~ Mike C

Continuous Radon Monitoring vs. “the two little vials” – Facts and Myths about Radon Gas Testing – Part I

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 13:59:45 -0800

Over my 10 years as a Massachusetts Home Inspector, I (like many others in my profession) have seen a huge increase in the percentage of well-informed clients that are requesting radon gas testing as an additional service along with their home inspection. Several months ago I added continuous radon monitoring (CRM) - also loosely known as "the machine test" to my service arsenal, while continuing to offer the more economical liquid scintillation test - aka "the two small plastic vials".

I routinely get quizzical questions from clients ranging from ‘what is radon' , ‘why should I test for radon', ‘what's the difference between the two methods' , and my favorite - ‘why should I pay you when I can do it myself?' So, I thought I was time to devote a couple of blog installments on this rather important and somewhat mysterious subject. Here goes:

One common misconception about the two test methods is that the ‘machine test' is more accurate than the ‘vial test'. The bottom line is there is no difference in accuracy. Doesn't it make simple common sense just based on all of the potential implications? Think about it. The USEPA maintains strict protocols for placement and QA/QC for both types of devices. Upon close examination you'd find that for the most part, the protocols are nearly identical! So don't get sold into paying more based solely for accuracy - it simply isn't there. Analytical Organizations that provide vial test kits for testing must remain in compliance with the USEPA's strict QA/QC protocols in order for their devices to retain their product certifications. The same goes for Home Inspectors and the like providing continuous radon monitoring services.

Another common misconception is that there is some sort of ‘magic formula' for making a pre-determination about a property without actually testing for radon - there isn't. Brand new homes, old homes, stone foundations, concrete foundations, etc. - none are immune. No one in the neighborhood has radon? No matter - soil concentrations of radon can vary as much as 300 times over as little as 30ft of distance. The bottom line is that radon gas testing is the only way to make an accurate determination. I've had many an unsuspecting property and/or property owner be surprised by significantly elevated radon gas levels.

Which leads me to my final point: Accurate determinations require accurate testing. Yes, the average handyman can easily purchase the $30 hardware store kit. The truly difficult part comes with correctly following the placement protocols and the interpretation of the results. The average hardware store kit instructions at best fill up a few paragraphs on a single page - the USEPA's Protocol for ‘vial kits' takes up an entire page and half just for device placement! A lot of this critical information simply isn't on the average hardware store kit instructions! I've stumbled across many an incorrectly setup hardware kit over the past 10 years - and in almost all of those cases, those placement mistakes were almost certain to induce false negatives. Why risk it for another handful of dollars? Have a professional place your radon test kit.

In part II, I'll cover some of the pros and cons for each testing method. See you then...

8 Home Inspection Company sales pitches and what to do about them...

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Tue, 28 Apr 2009 21:19:03 -0700

Spring is here (at last) in Massachusetts, and it's getting to be that time again when jobs are abundant and competition is on the rise. Like many in the Real Estate profession, Home Inspectors can be subject to being perceived as commodities - that somehow we are all alike, separated only by cost.

As competition rises, so does the volume of time-tested sales pitches, claims, shenanigans, and exaggerations. While intended to be harmless, some of these tactics can downright deceitful. We've all ‘been had' at some point in time in our lives.

Some of you may question why a Home Inspector would write such an article about Home Inspection sales tactics. Here's why: After answering thousands of calls, presenting a dozen or so homebuyer seminars, and conversing with a multitude of clients and Realtors, it is clear to me that too many potential homebuyers don't know the difference between one Inspection firm and the rest. I educate buyers about homes, so why not also educate them about Inspectors? As an ‘honest Abe', I guess I feel like it's my obligation.

So the moral of the story is this: Be a skeptic. Make multiple calls. ASK questions. DON'T fall for the easy pitch. If you hear or read one of these famous one-liners, assume the alternate meaning might be true. Armed with this new perspective, you may find yourself seeing things in a whole new light and finding the inspector that is truly right for you.

Here goes:

•1. "Lower priced Inspectors are just desperate for business..."

What it can mean: "...Hey, this is America - and I know that you think that bigger and more expensive is ALWAYS better! The $1,200 TV at Wal-Mart looks way better than the $325 TV, so that must go for home inspections too, right? Hopefully, my well-practiced telephone sales pitch, flashy web page, 100 years of construction experience, and multitude of certifications and customer testimonials will convince you that don't want one of those ‘puny' $325 inspections! Because if I can't, and you hang up and call around, you'll find out that most inspectors can do the same thing for 1/3 the price. But that's okay... because ‘you'll be sorry'."

•2. "I'll save you $50,000 in repairs..."

What it can mean: "...But, you're not going to buy this house (in fact, if you're the scared and nervous type you may never buy a house)! Because I will point out every single defect and describe it in a worst-case scenario, you will likely become so frightful you will likely back out. This is good for me too because it eliminates my liability. You also probably don't realize that the odds of getting 50, or even 10 thousand dollars off of asking price really are about as great as hitting the lottery. But by the time you do, I'll have gotten 2-3 inspection fees out of you." (see #4)

•3. "Mention this ad/site and receive a $10 discount/free pest inspection..."

What it usually means: "...Mention this ad/site and I will raise my price $10 before discounting you $10, and then I'll give you a "free" pest inspection (that I was going to do anyhow) because I definitely don't want any claims for missing insect damage!"

•4. "I don't solicit/accept recommendations from Realtors..."

What it can mean: "... no Realtors will recommend me because I frequently scare customers out of transactions! I might really dislike Realtors (including yours) because of this. Even though not soliciting/accepting recommendations creates an illusion of ‘me good' vs. ‘them evil', you might not remember there are good and bad eggs in all professions. It's also good that you don't know that Buyer Agents in Massachusetts can and do recommend Inspectors, because if you did, I'd look like a either a hypocrite or a fool..."

•5. "My report is better because it's (insert number typically greater than 30) pages..."

What it can mean: "...the report will likely be filled with a lot of boiler plate (typically paragraphs of cut-and-paste information from a reporting software with some field enterable data); repetitive and over-worded statements (for instance, instead o f "I do not move furniture", using, "I didn't move the dresser in the front bedroom, I didn't move the sofa in the living room, etc."; lines of disclaimers (designed primarily to protect me); a copy of my state home inspection standards (which is required, but makes about 13 great pages of filler); about 100 questions "you should ask the Seller" (protecting my liability); and 10 contractors you should consult (also protecting my liability). Since you've never seen any other reports, you probably won't ever know the difference."

•6. "I have conducted over 5,000 inspections over the past 6 years...."

What it can mean: "...I was really only paid to do 750 inspections over the past 5 years, but I am counting every house I have ever looked at, because bigger numbers look way better than my competition. I may, however, be unable to figure out that would require performing more than 2 inspections per day, every day, 365 days per year, for 6 years straight, and the subsequent diminished quality that might seem to entail. Hopefully, you don't figure this out either."

•7. "I guarantee you my best effort, I promise you this..."

What it usually means: "...I got this great sounding tag line from (insert affiliation) and I really need to put something catchy on my web page/ad that shows you just how serious, how much better, and how different I am then my competition. I don't think you will find it cheesy, and I certainly do not think you will do a web search on it and find 100 other Inspectors (also from said affiliation) using the exact same line, because if you did I would look just like everyone else."

•8. "I've been a builder/contractor for the past (insert some multiple of 10) years..."

What it means: Being a good carpenter, plumber, finish contractor, etc. really has very little bearing whatsoever on being a good home inspector. You may logically assume that if someone has been hammering nails for 20 years, they must know a lot about houses (hopefully). You might not however, assume that doing finish cabinetry doesn't teach someone much about say, electrical systems or identifying foundation failures. What you do need to know is that being a great home inspector requires an enormously diverse skill set that is not taught in trade school, or ‘at the job site'.

Hey, what about my Granite Countertops..... and mold?

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Mon, 16 Mar 2009 20:54:14 -0700

So with all the recent hype regarding granite countertops and radon gas emissions, I thought I'd combine granite countertops with one of my other 'hot topic' specialties: mold investigation.

On the scale of hygiene, the typical granite countertop falls somewhere below Stainless and Corian, well ahead of ordinary laminates, and relatively even with quartz (aka "engineered stone"). A special variation of engineered quartz called "Silestone" exists that is advertised as having built-in anti-microbial properties. This is due to the addition of a special chemical compound during its manufacture.

Unlike engineered stone however, granite benefits greatly from the addition of a sealer. Left unsealed, granite can absorb small amounts of liquid, which may lead to staining. Similarly, open pores in granite surfaces can also harbor small amounts of liquid. These situations may lead to bacterial growth

The great news about granite however, is its superior ability to be cleaned. In a study by the Hospitality Institute of Technology and Management, granite was beaten only by Stainless Steel in a standardized hygiene test. The study showed that washing a granite surface with ordinary yellow dish soap and water reduced E.Coli bacteria levels by 36,000 times. If the dish soap was followed up by a 10% solution of household vinegar, the reduction of E. Coli increased to 80,000,000 times! Because caustics like vinegar can damage some sealers, its best to just stick with the dish soap.

So here are a few tips to keep in mind:

Granite should be initially sealed and then reapplied following the manufacturers recommendations
Avoid cutting raw food directly on a granite surface - use a cutting board.
Wipe up any spills immediately and wash down when completed.
Avoid using bleach or other caustics as this can damage the sealer
Avoid placing hot objects directly on the surface as this may also damage the sealer.

Follow these quick tips and keep your surface dry and clean - and you can be sure mold won't be hiding in the depths!

REALTOR POLL - Question from an Inspector

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 17:48:01 -0800

Hello Realtors!

I have a quick question for you from an ever-curious Home Inspector.

I track all of my inbound call sources, so I am keenly aware of where my business comes from. I am ready to expand into the next realm of opportunity, so I could greatly value the opinion(s) of some other professionals on the 'other side of the fence'.

My 'poll' question is: In your experiences, how do YOU find that most buyer's choose their Home Inspector?

A. A Realtor

B. A friend or family member

C. The internet

I would love to hear your answers! Feel free to reply with just A/B/C or leave me your comments.

Much appreciated!

Ice Dams : Winter's way of 'stopping in for a visit'

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Mon, 09 Feb 2009 20:31:32 -0800

It's been a long, cold, and snowy winter here in Massachusetts and over the past months of performing home inspections I have run into numerous instances of ice dam formation and the subsequent questions from prospective buyers and sellers.

So what exactly causes ice dams? Simply put, ice dam formation is caused when melting snow runs down the roof and then refreezes at the roof edge. The water runs down the roof slope underneath the blanket of snow and then refreezes into a band of ice at the roof edge creating a "dam". Additional snow melt can then pool against the dam and leak into the building through the roof or roof trim. Ice dams can actually form with as little as 1 or 2 inches of snow accumulation given the right weather circumstances.

The question I receive most often is, "what can I do to prevent ice dams?" The answer, while it may sound contradictory at first, is increased amounts of insulation and increased attic ventilation. In order to understand why, one needs to fully understand the mechanisms of ice dam formation: The upper roof (or attic) surface is typically at a temperature that is above freezing - this is what causes the melting at the upper roof surfaces. The lower part of the roof (or attic) surface (along the eaves) is typically below freezing - this is what causes the refreeze. It is heat lost from inside the house is the source of the melting at the upper roof surfaces! Because the lower roof surfaces (particularly the overhangs) are not warmed by indoor heat-loss, these regions can remain at below freezing temperatures, especially during periods of very cold outdoor temperatures.

Check your home carefully when ice dams form, even when there doesn't appear to be a leak. Get in your attic and look at the underside of the roof sheathing and roof trim to make sure they haven't gotten wet. Check the insulation for dampness. And when leaks inside your home develop, be prepared. Water penetration often follows pathways difficult follow. You may wish to hire an inspector that is equipped with an infrared or thermal imaging camera, as this equipment may be able to spot water penetration that is not readily visible with the naked eye. Ultimately, however, you will want to correct the problem to prevent future occurrences:

Insulation: Houses in this region of the country should have attic insulation of at least R-38, or about 12 inches depth of fiberglass or blown in material. The most notable problem area is at the far eaves, or right above where the exterior wall is.

Ventilation: A 'ridge/soffit' ventilation system is currently the most effective ventilation system, and is the system found in most new construction. If you have an older home, you may still be using a power fan, static roof vent(s) and/or gable end louvers - these simply aren't as good and will have a more difficult time retarding ice dam formation. Ridge/soffit systems should also include foam or plastic baffles at the far eaves to prevent insulation from blocking the soffit intake vents. If you have soffit baffles currently installed, make sure they are not crushed or displaced - they are relatively flimsy items yet they perform a very important function.

Air Leakage: Although insulation is what primarily keeps warm air in our house, small (or large) holes can allow significant volumes of warm indoor air to pass into attic spaces. Some of these sources can include: pull-down staircases, doorways leading to attic staircases, recessed lighting, bathroom exhaust fans, and various holes for cable TV, internet, etc. Take the appropriate measures to seal up or insulate these areas, it may be the difference maker!

Remember: Always wear personal protective equipment when making repairs of any nature. And when in doubt, always hire a professional.

Winter is almost over!

Granite Countertops and Radon - THE REAL TRUTH

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Mon, 19 Jan 2009 23:05:37 -0800

As we all may be aware, the current 'mania of the month' is "Are my granite countertops emitting Radon". I must admit, the first time I had a customer call me with this question, I was torn between "that's crazy" and "hey, that could be possible".

Not much to my surprise, I have discovered that in many cases the origins of these concerns are advertisements by manufacturers of competing materials!!

Levels of radon gas from granite-based products, while technically measurable, are in fact fractional values of established thresholds for environmental safety. So, with that being said..........

THE BIG QUESTION: Is radon in granite countertops dangerous?

A: No!! There are two ways in which countertops made of granite might emit any level of radiation. The first is by release of tiny amounts of Radon, which can be breathed in; the second is by direct radiation from the surface itself to the homeowner. In both cases, the radiation emitted is from the same process, but the end result is the same: compared to other radiation sources in the home and outside, the risk to the homeowner from radioactivity emitted from a granite countertop is practically non-existent. The amount of radon gas emitted by a granite countertop is less than one millionth of that already present in household air from other sources! ONE-MILLIONTH! ¹

Q: How much radon is given off by a granite countertop, and how does this compare with other household materials?

A: For an average countertop, the concentration of radon that is given off by the countertop into household air is 0.00000074 pCi/L, an amount that is 270,000 times less than the level of radon in outside air! The maximum contact radiation level that you would receive over one year if you were to sit on countertop all the time would be about one quarter of the annual radiation dose you already receive from all sources. Even If you were just a few inches away from the granite, then the dose would be immeasurable!!¹

Q: What about food that is prepared directly on the granite surface? Is there a chance that it could absorb radioactive energy, which would later be ingested by those eating the food?

A: The only way that radioactive elements such as uranium can get into the food is if they became dissolved in water and absorbed by the food. However, granite is one of the most insoluble materials known to mankind and the amount that could be dissolved is minute in comparison to the radioactive elements that are already in the food!¹

As an inspector, I always recommend that you have your property tested for radon by a qualified specialist who uses an EPA-approved testing method and certified laboratory. Spare yourself and/or your customers the expense of additional testing over fear of radon emissions from your granite countertops...!

Cited References

1 - "The Truth About Granite & Radon/Radiation" - Marble Institute of America (http://www.marble-institute.com), Vol. IV, Issue I, March 2007

Preparing your Home for Winter

Home Inspection Massachusetts - Mike Ciavattieri (BONSAI Inspection Company) — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 18:35:02 -0800

The clock is ticking and winter is not that far off, so now is a great time to prepare your home for the long cold winter months ahead. Tackle these tasks one at a time and you will not be overwhelmed.Do not wait until the last minute to take care of basic tasks! Do not wait until the snow and rain is coming down to start thinking about what needs to be done.

Test your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors so you are sure that they are in good working order. They can save your life and do save thousands every year. If you do not have detectors on every floor of your home, get them, that one item should be a top priority. Tackle this task right away.
Have your fireplace inspected by a qualified/certified chimney sweep to verify that it is safe to use. If you use your fireplace regularly, have it inspected annually. Don't rely on a 'cleaning log'. Logs do not see or correct flue damage! Get a hold of some good firewood not only for that warm comfortable feeling that a fireplace can provide, it is a good idea to have that on hand, instead of having to brave the cold weather in a search for wood to burn during the winter. Don't store firewood inside- it's a great way to bring insects in! I've seen several instances where stored wood led to termite damage!!
Close all the air conditioning vents if they are separate from the heating system and secure and put away any window air conditioners. Cover your air conditioning compressor (the outdoor unit) with a tarp or custom fit cover. Don't forget to secure the cover from wind!
Turn off and drain your outside water faucets. There should be a shutoff valve just inside the house where the faucet enters the siding. Turn this valve off then turn the outide valve on and leave it on. This will drain the faucet fixture of water and prevent freezing. For added protection you can install a screw-on end-cap to the faucet.
Now is a great time to change your hot air furnace filter- I recommend a good quality HEPA or allergen filter unit - it's worth the extra cost. The cheap blue 99 cent filters just don't cut it.

Make yourself a list of any repairs around the house you may need - before winter comes. Find and fix any heating leaks that exist. On a brisk windy day check every outside door, and window to determine areas that leak or let in cold air, and repair as needed.

Assemble all the tools you might need this winter; snow blower or shovel, rock salt or ice melt, sand, warm gloves, hat, etc. Make sure the snowplow is tuned up and is in good working order.

Some more important items to consider:

Caulk around all windows and door glass and do not overlook all exterior trim. Put weather stripping on all doors and around all windows. Check for cracks in the putty insulation around pipes and electrical outlets.
Install storm windows and doors if you do not already have them. Use storm windows that are made from modern insulated glass. If you have older windows with screens and storm window panels, don't forget to raise the screens and close the storms!
Have your heating system inspected and or tuned up by a licensed heating/air-conditioning professional.
Check all your gutters and downspouts; fix or clean them if needed. Make sure downspouts discharge away from the foundation by at least 3 feet.
Trim any bushes and trees away from the house.
Check all fire extinguishers and replace as needed.
Check your sump pump. If it grinds or sounds noisy, think about a replacement. Like your downspouts, be sure the discharge is routed away from the foundation by at least 3 feet!

Following these tips and tasks will help make your home safer, more comfortable, and more economical this winter.