Basement flooding due to sewer backup is an all too frequent occurrence in certain areas during heavy rainstorms. Many people are not aware that they can modify the plumbing in their houses to positively prevent sewage from entering their basements. Three different approaches are common and the one you choose depends on the piping layout of your house.
Determine what plumbing arrangement your home has:
In the most basic type of basement plumbing, the basement drains are joined directly to the sewer pipe before it leaves the house. This plumbing is found in many older homes with basements and no sump pumps. Both sewage and footing drain water enter the sanitary sewer. Excessive footing drain flow from a residence may or may not cause flooding in that particular home. The footing drain flow contributes to any sewer or basement flooding that may occur. Your home may also have one of the following basement plumbing enhancements. Whatever your current plumbing arrangement, there usually are further steps that can be taken to prevent basement flooding.
Three common plumbing upgrades
Upgrade #1: Add a Sump Pump
A sump pump is needed as part of any corrective measure. The sump pump removes the footing drain water from around the basement wall and discharges it to the surface of the ground, a ditch, or a storm sewer, depending on the surface grading around the house. Many communities require that new homes include sump pumps. Sump pumps in new homes usually discharge to the storm sewer system. To protect a basement from flooding due to sewer backup, the plumbing fixtures and floor drain in the basement also need to be disconnected from the municipal sewer.
Upgrade #2: Add a Sump Pump and Valves
If a sump pump is not sufficient, a check valve and a shut-off valve can be installed to provide a good measure of protection from basement flooding. These valves can isolate the house plumbing from the public sewer in the street. The check valve includes a flapper that shuts when water level in the public sewer is high enough to flow back into the house. The shut-off valve can be manually closed as an added measure of protection. The shut-off valve will also need to be closed if debris becomes lodged in the check valve preventing its full closure.
The homeowner will need to discontinue or, at least, sharply curtail the use of the sanitary facilities while the potential for flooding exists. During this time, showers, the clothes washer, and dishwasher cannot be used.
Upgrade #3: Add a Sump Pump and an Ejector Pump
An ejector pump can provide still further protection. An ejector pump can be installed to pump the sewage into the public sewer whether it is flooded or not. If there is a power failure, the homeowner will need to discontinue use of the sanitary facilities. Both the sump pump and the ejector pump can be installed
In 2005, heating equipment was involved in an estimated 62,000 reported U.S. Home Structure fires, with losses of 670 deaths,1550 injuries, and to the tune of 909 million in propert damage. Homes refers to one-and-two-family dwellings. This includes mobile homes and town homes.Chimneys and Flue connections accounted for about 32%.Home gas heating was 73% of deaths, and 64% injuries and around 57% of propert Damage.
In 2005 Chimneys accounted for 93% of total home chimney fires or chimney connector fires. In 2000-2003there were 2.7 electrocutions deaths per year involving electric water heaters, and 1.8 electrocutions from elctrical heaters.
As winter approches make sure for your familys safety not to cut corners due to a slow econmony, and fail to have your systems inspected for proper installation, adeqaute repairs that may have been made. Have system check for carbon monoxide leaks, adequate exhuast flues, no back drafting. It will not only be safefor your family it will save you money when your system is operating at its peak perform.64% of structure fires were the results of improper repairs.
With recent heavy rain in the south east region it is easy to contaminate you drinking water!
Dug Wells
Dug wells are holes in the ground dug by shovel or backhoe. Historically, a dug well was excavated below the groundwater table until incoming water exceeded the diggers bailing rate. The well was then lined (cased) with stones, brick, tile, or other material to prevent collapse. It was covered with a cap of wood, stone, or concrete. Since it is so difficult to dig beneath the ground water table, dug wells are not very deep. Typically, they are only 10 to 30 feet deep. Being so shallow, dug wells have the highest risk of becoming contaminated.To minimize the likelihood of contamination, your dug well should have certain features. These features help to prevent contaminants from traveling along the outside of the casing or through the casing and into the well.
Dug Well Construction Features
The well should be cased with a watertight material (for example, tongue-and-groove precast concrete) and a cement grout or bentoniteclay sealant poured along the outside of the casing to the top of the well.
The well should be covered by a concrete curband cap that stands about a foot above the ground.
The land surface around the well should be mounded so that surface water runs away from the well and is not allowed to pond around the outside of the wellhead.
Ideally, the pump for your well should be inside your home or in a separate pump house, rather than in a pit next to the well.
Land activities around a dug well can also contaminate it. While dug wells have been used as a household water supply source for many years, most are relics of older homes, dug before drilling equipment was readily available or when drilling was considered too expensive. If you have a dug well on your property and are using it for drinking water, check to make sure it is properly covered and sealed. Another problem relating to the shallowness of a dug well is that it may go dry during a drought when the ground water table drops.
Driven Wells
Like dug wells, driven wells pull water from the water-saturated zone above the bedrock. Driven wells can be deeper than dug wells. They are typically 30 to 50 feet deep and are usually located in areas with thick sand and gravel deposits where the ground water table is within 15 feet of the grounds surface. In the proper geologic setting, driven wells can be easy and relatively inexpensive to install. Although deeper than dug wells, driven wells are still relatively shallow and have a moderate-to-high risk of contamination from nearby land activities.
Driven Well Construction Features
Assembled lengths of two inches to three inches diameter metal pipes are driven into the ground. Screened well point located at the end of the pipe helps drive the pipe through the sand and gravel. The screen allows water to enter the well and filters out sediment.
The pump for the well is in one of two places: on top ofthe well or in the house. An access pit is usually dug around the well down to the frost line and a water dis-charge pipe to the house is joined to the well pipe with a fitting.
The well and pit are capped with the same kind of large-diameter concrete tile used for a dug well. The access pit may be cased with pre-cast concrete.
To minimize this risk, the well cover should be a tight-fitting concrete curb and cap with no cracks and should sit about a foot above the ground. Slope the ground away from the well so that surface water will not pond around the well. If there's a pit above the well, either to hold the pump or to access the fitting, you may also be able to pour a grout sealant along the outside of the well pipe. Protecting the water quality requires that you maintain proper well construction and monitor your activities around the well. It is also important to follow the same land use precautions around the driven well as described under dug wells.
Drilled Wells
Drilled wells penetrate about 100-400 feet into the bedrock. Where you find bedrock at the surface, it is commonly called ledge. To serve as a water supply, a drilled well must intersect bedrock fractures containing ground water.
Drilled Well Construction Features
The casing is usually metal or plastic pipe, six inches in diameter that extends into the bedrock to prevent shallow ground water from entering the well. By law, the casing has to extend at least 18 feet into the ground, with at least five feet extending into the bedrock. The casing should also extend a foot or two above the grounds surface. A sealant, such as cement grout or bentonite clay, should be poured along the outside of the casing to the top of the well. The well is capped to prevent surface water from entering the well.
Submersible pumps, located near the bottom of the well, are most commonly used in drilled wells. Wells with a shallow water table may feature a jet pump located inside the home. Pumps require special wiring and electrical service. Well pumps should be installed and serviced by a qualified professional registered with your state.
Most modern drilled wells incorporate a pitless adapter designed to provide a sanitary seal at the point where the discharge water line leaves the well to enter your home. The device attaches directly to the casing below the frost line and provides a watertight subsurface connection, protecting the well from frost and contamination.
Older drilled wells may lack some of these sanitary features. The well pipe used was oftene ight-, 10- or 12- inches in diameter, and covered with a concrete well cap either at or below the grounds surface. This outmoded type of construction does not provide the same degree of protection from surface contamination. Also, older wells may not have a pitless adapter to provide a seal at the point of discharge from the well.
A Drilled Well
Hydrofracting is a process that applies water or air under pressure into your well to open up existing fractures near your well and can even create new ones. Often this can increase the yield of your well. This process can be applied to new wells with insufficient yield and to improve the quantity of older wells.
How can I test the quality of my private drinking water supply?
Consider testing your well for pesticides, organic chemicals, and heavy metals before you use it for the first time. Test private water supplies annually for nitrate and coliform bacteria to detect contamination problems early. Test them more frequently if you suspect a problem. Be aware of activities in your watershed that may affect the water quality of your well, especially if you live in an unsewered area.
Human Health
The first step to protect your health and the health of your family is learning about what may pollute your source of drinking water. Potential contamination may occur naturally, or as a result of human activity.
What are Some Naturally Occurring Sources of Pollution?
Microorganisms: Bacteria, viruses, parasites and other microorganisms are sometimes found in water. Shallow wells those with water close to ground level are at most risk. Runoff, or water flowing over the land surface, may pick up these pollutants from wildlife and soils. This is often the case after flooding. Some of these organisms can cause a variety of illnesses. Symptoms include nausea and diarrhea. These can occur shortly after drinking contaminated water. The effects could be short-term yet severe (similar to food poisoning) or might recur frequently or develop slowly over a long time.
Radionuclides: Radionuclide's are radioactive elements such as uranium and radium. They may be present in underlying rock and ground water
Radon: Radon isa gas that is a natural product of the breakdown of uranium in the soil can also pose a threat. Radon is most dangerous when inhaled and contributes to lung cancer. Although soil is the primary source, using household water containing Radon contributes to elevated indoor Radon levels. Radon is less dangerous when consumed in water, but remains a risk to health.
Nitrates and Nitrites: Although high nitrate levels are usually due to human activities (see below), they may be found naturally in ground water. They come from the breakdown of nitrogen compounds in the soil. Flowing ground water picks them up from the soil. Drinking large amounts of nitrates and nitrites is particularly threatening to infants (for example, when mixed in formula).
Heavy Metals: Underground rocks and soils may contain arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead, and selenium. However, these contaminants are not often found in household wells at dangerous levels from natural sources.
Fluoride: Fluoride is helpful in dental health, so many water systems add small amounts to drinking water. However, excessive consumption of naturally occurring fluoride can damage bone tissue. High levels of fluoride occur naturally in some areas. It may discolor teeth, but this is not a health risk.
What Human Activities Can Pollute Ground Water?
Septic tanks are designed to have a leach field around them an area where wastewater flows out of the tank. This wastewater can also move into the ground water.
Bacteria and Nitrates: These pollutants are found in human and animal wastes. Septic tanks can cause bacterial and nitrate pollution. So can large numbers of farm animals. Both septic systems and animal manures must be carefully managed to prevent pollution. Sanitary landfills and garbage dumps are also sources. Children and some adults are at extra risk when exposed to water-born bacteria. These include the elderly and people whose immune systems are weak due to AIDS or treatments for cancer. Fertilizers can add to nitrate problems. Nitrates cause a health threat in very young infants called blue baby syndrome. This condition disrupts oxygen flow in the blood.
Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs): The number of CAFOs, often called factory farms, is growing. On these farms thousands of animals are raised in a small space. The large amounts of animal wastes/manures from these farms can threaten water supplies. Strict and careful manure management is needed to prevent pathogen and nutrient problems. Salts from high levels of manures can also pollute ground water.
Heavy Metals: Activities such as mining and construction can release large amounts of heavy metals into nearby ground water sources. Some older fruit orchards may contain high levels of arsenic, once used as a pesticide. At high levels, these metals pose a health risk.
Fertilizers and Pesticides: Farmers use fertilizers and pesticides to promote growth and reduce insect damage. These products are also used on golf courses and suburban lawns and gardens. The chemicals in these products may end up in ground water. Such pollution depends on the types and amounts of chemicals used and how they are applied. Local environmental conditions (soil types, seasonal snow and rainfall) also affect this pollution. Many fertilizers contain forms of nitrogen that can break down into harmful nitrates. This could add to other sources of nitrates mentioned above. Some underground agricultural drainage systems collect fertilizers and pesticides. This polluted water can pose problems to ground water and local streams and rivers. In addition, chemicals used to treat buildings and homes for termites or other pests may also pose a threat. Again, the possibility of problems depends on the amount and kind of chemicals. The types of soil and the amount of water moving through the soil also play a role.
Industrial Products and Wastes: Many harmful chemicals are used widely in local business and industry. These can become drinking water pollutants if not well managed. The most common sources of such problems are:
Local Businesses: These include nearby factories, industrial plants, and even small businesses such as gas stations and dry cleaners. All handle a variety of hazardous chemicals that need careful management. Spills and improper disposal of these chemicals or of industrial wastes can threaten ground water supplies.
Leaking Underground Tanks & Piping: Petroleum products, chemicals, and wastes stored in underground storage tanks and pipes may end up in the ground water. Tanks and piping leak if they are constructed or installed improperly. Steel tanks and piping corrode with age. Tanks are often found on farms. The possibility of leaking tanks is great on old, abandoned farm sites. Farm tanks are exempt from the EPA rules for petroleum and chemical tanks.
Landfills and Waste Dumps: Modern landfills are designed to contain any leaking liquids. But floods can carry them over the barriers. Older dumpsites may have a wide variety of pollutants that can seep into ground water.
Household Wastes: Improper disposal of many common products can pollute ground water. These include cleaning solvents, used motor oil, paints, and paint thinners. Even soaps and detergents can harm drinking water. These are often a problem from faulty septic tanks and septic leaching fields.
Lead & Copper: Household plumbing materials are the most common source of lead and copper in home drinking water. Corrosive water may cause metals in pipes or soldered joints to leach into your tap water. Your waters acidity or alkalinity (often measured as pH) greatly affects corrosion. Temperature and mineral content also affect how corrosive it is. They are often used in pipes, solder, or plumbing fixtures. Lead can cause serious damage to the brain, kidneys, nervous system, and red blood cells. The age of plumbing materials in particular, copper pipes soldered with lead is also important. Even in relatively low amounts these metals can be harmful. EPA rules under the Safe Drinking Water Act limit lead in drinking water to 15 parts per billion. Since 1988 the Act only allows lead free pipe, solder, and flux in drinking water systems. The law covers both new installations and repairs of plumbing.
What You Can Do...
Private, individual wells are the responsibility of the homeowner. To help protect your well, here are some steps you can take:
Have your water tested periodically. It is recommended that water be tested every year for total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids, and pH levels. If you suspect other contaminants, test for those. Always use a state certified laboratory that conducts drinking water tests. Since these can be expensive, spend some time identifying potential problems.
Testing more than once a year may be warranted in special situations:
someone in your household is pregnant or nursing
there are unexplained illnesses in the family
your neighbors find a dangerous contaminant in their water
you note a change in water taste, odor, color or clarity
there is a spill of chemicals or fuels into or near your well
when you replace or repair any part of your well system
Identify potential problems as the first step to safeguarding your drinking water. The best way to start is to consult a local expert, someone that knows your area, such as the local health department, agricultural extension agent, a nearby public water system, or a geologist at a local university.
Be aware of your surroundings. As you drive around your community, take note of new construction. Check the local newspaper for articles about new construction in your area.
Check the paper or call your local planning or zoning commission for announcements about hearings or zoning appeals on development or industrial projects that could possibly affect your water.
Attend these hearings, ask questions about how your water source is being protected, and don't be satisfied with general answers. Make statements like "If you build this landfill, (just an example) what will you do to ensure that my water will be protected." See how quickly they answer and provide specifics about what plans have been made to specifically address that issue.
Identify Potential Problem Sources
To start your search for potential problems, begin close to home. Do a survey around your well:
is there livestock nearby?
are pesticides being used on nearby agricultural crops or nurseries?
do you use lawn fertilizers near the well?
is your well "downstream" from your own or a neighbor's septic system?
is your well located near a road that is frequently salted or sprayed with de-icers during winter months?
do you or your neighbors dispose of household wastes or used motor oil in the backyard, even in small amounts?
If any of these items apply, it may be best to have your water tested and talk to your local public health department or agricultural extension agent to find way to change some of the practices which can affect your private well.
In addition to the immediate area around your well, you should be aware of other possible sources of contamination that may already be part of your community or may be moving into your area. Attend any local planning or appeal hearings to find out more about the construction of facilities that may pollute your drinking water. Ask to see the environmental impact statement on the project. See if underground drinking water sources has been addressed. If not, ask why.
Common Sources of Potiental Ground Water Contamination
If your family gets drinking water from a private well, do you know if your water is safe to drink? What health risks could you and your family face? Where can you go for help or advice? EPA regulates public water systems; it does not have the authority to regulate private drinking water wells. Approximately 15 percent of Americans rely on their own private drinking water supplies, and these supplies are not subject to EPA standards, although some state and local governments do set rules to protect users of these wells. Unlike public drinking water systems serving many people, they do not have experts regularly checking the waters source and its quality before it is sent to the tap. These households must take special precautions to ensure the protection and maintenance of their drinking water supplies.
Basic Information
There are three types of private drinking water wells: dug, driven, and drilled. Proper well construction and continued maintenance are keys to the safety of your water supply. Your state water-well contractor licensing agency, local health department, or local water system professional can provide information on well construction. The well should be located so rainwater flows away from it. Rainwater can pick up harmful bacteria and chemicals on the lands surface. If this water pools near your well, it can seep into it, potentially causing health problems. Water-well drillers and pump-well installers are listed in your local phone directory. The contractor should be bonded and insured. Make certain your ground water contractor is registered or licensed in your state, if required. If your state does not have a licensing/registration program contact the National Ground Water Association. They have a voluntary certification program for contractors. (In fact, some states use the Associations exams as their test for licensing.) For a list of certified contractors in your state contact the Association at (614) 898-7791 or (800) 551-7379. There is no cost for mailing or faxing the list to you.
To keep your well safe, you must be sure possible sources of contamination are not close by. Experts suggest the following distances as a minimum for protection farther is better:
Patroleum Tanks, Liquid-Tight Manure Storage and Fertilizer Storage and Handling, 100 feet
Manure Stacks, 250 feet
Many homeowners tend to forget the value of good maintenance until problems reach crisis levels. That can be expensive. Its better to maintain your well, find problems early, and correct them to protect your wells performance. Keep up-to-date records of well installation and repairs plus pumping and water tests. Such records can help spot changes and possible problems with your water system. If you have problems, ask a local expert to check your well construction and maintenance records. He or she can see if your system is okay or needs work.
Protect your own well area. Be careful about storage and disposal of household and lawn care chemicals and wastes. Good farmers and gardeners minimize the use of fertilizers and pesticides. Take steps to reduce erosion and prevent surface water runoff. Regularly check underground storage tanks that hold home heating oil, diesel, or gasoline. Make sure your well is protected from the wastes of livestock, pets, and wildlife.
Cold winter weather brings cozy evenings, and an increase in the use of home heating equipment. It's probably time to give your heating system a safety check. Heating equipment failures or malfunctions are one of the leading causes of all home fires. We can reduce the occurrence of these types of fires with a little preventative maintenance and some good fire safety habits.
The following are some tips for safety around heating systems:
Never discard hot ashes inside or near the home. Place them in a covered metal container outside and well away from the house.
If you use a wood-burning stove or fireplace, have a licensed chimney sweep clean and inspect your chimney at least once a year.
Place a glass or metal spark screen in front of the fireplace and install caps on chimneys.
Never use a flammable liquid (gasoline, kerosene, lighter fluid, etc.) to start a fire or rekindle a small one.
Keep paper, clothing, trash, and other combustibles at least three feet away from your furnace, hot water heater, or wood-burning device.
Have a professional clean and inspected your heating system yearly. This may prevent a fire and will make your heating system more energy efficient.
Keep portable heaters away from curtains, beds, clothes, and children. Make sure there is at least three feet of clearance around the heater for proper ventilation. Turn heaters off when you leave the room or go to bed.
Never refuel the heater while it is operating or while it is still hot. Always refuel outside. Avoid overfilling.
Be sure your space heater has an emergency shut off in case the heater is tipped over.
Atlanta professinal Inspection service company. Over 14yrs experience. Call the rest the call the best!
The standard for newly installed air conditioners has changed from SEER 10 to SEER 13: a 30% increase in efficiency. However, for many with older homes (pre-1992), the increase in efficiency can be even greater than 30%, due to the older units much lower SEER ratings--usually around 6 or 7. Thus the "payback" will be even bigger, and faster, and the reduction in electricity costs will be even nicer!
Initially, the up front costs for the new SEER 13 units are going to be higher than the SEER 10 units. Talking with a well respected Atlanta HVAC firm who represents several well known brands, the representative noted the price difference between a SEER 10 and a SEER 13 two-and-a-half ton unit, including the cost of a matching evaporator coil (if needed) would range about $600 higher on average.
There may be additional costs for sheet-metal work around the new, larger sized evaporator coil at the furnace, possibly new copper tubing from the compressor to the evaporator. The new units require very clean plumbing, so the current plumbing may need to be cleaned or replaced. The new units required 40% more "freon".
There has been much speculation about how much larger the new outside units will be. Actually some manufacturers like Amana, Goodman and Bryant (and perhaps others) new units will be the same or smaller than their current SEER 10 units.
A new digital thermostat is recommended if your unit is an older, say 15 year old analog thermostat, for more efficient operation.
And, just like car a/c systems where the old R-12 was changed, in 2010 the current R-22 air conditioner coolant will be changed to the R-410A. At least one manufacturer, Carrier, already includes the new freon, so you‘ll already have an a/c that meets the SEER 13 requirements with the new coolant
Through the years we all get older...even our homes,cars etc. Proper maintainance on a home is a steady, and some times costy effort to keep up with. That brings me to this residential code I think all home sellers need to know.International Residential Code Council Ref {R102.7}- Provisions allowing the legal occupancy of a residential structure to continue without fully compling with current codes are grandfather-In.
The IRC provides such relief to home owners. To impose regulations to bring existing structures into current compliance would be impractical and unreasonable and penalized the owners. Since the structure was constructed in compliance with all applicable building standards at the time of construction.Of course, if due to lack of repair or improper repair and maintance,and the structure falls below generally acceptable threshold for sanitation,health,safety, and welfare, the IRC requires corrections in accordance with spefic codes.Additions,alterations or repairs cannot cause any portion of the existing structure to unsafe or affect performance by added excessive loads to exist on structural members,impededfire egress,overload the electrical service, or exceeds plumbing capacity DWV system.If any of the affected elements would need to be brought into compliance with current codes.
There is a appendix J clause such as water heater replacement,heating or air system or componets will have to be installed to todays IRC Code standards. As a code inspector we don't perform code inspections when performing home inspection. But when safety codes are missed and somethings tragic happens all eyes seem to look at you.
The Georgia state mininum for residential structres are outlined.
The Uniform Codes Act is codified at chapter 2 of title 8 of The Official Code of Georgia Annotated. O.C.G.A. Section 8-2-20(9)(B) identifies the ten "state minimum standard codes". Each of these separate codes typically consist of a base code (e.g. The International Building Code as published by the International Code Council) and a set of Georgia amendments to the base code. Georgia law further dictates that eight of these codes are "mandatory" (are applicable to all construction whether or not they are locally enforced.
1.) International Building Code 2.)One and Two Family Dwelling Code (International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family Dwellings 3.)International Fire Code 4.)International Plumbing Code 5.)International Mechanical Code 6.)Fuel Gas Code 7.)National Electrical Code 8.) Energy Conservation Code
As noted above, the building, one and two family dwelling, fire, plumbing, mechanical, gas, electrical and energy codes are mandatory codes, meaning that under Georgia law, any structure built in Georgia must comply with these codes, whether or not the local government chooses to locally enforce these codes.
So remember if you are trying to sell in this market have a pre-listing inspection to see what needs to be brought up to codes.It will help sell faster as well.
Gas Furnaces There are a variety of ways to describe different types residential gas furnaces. Gas furnaces can be classified by:
the direction of the air flowing through the heating unit;
the heating efficiency of the unit; and
the type of ignition system installed on the unit.
Airflow in Gas Furnaces One way to identify and describe a gas furnace is by the direction of the air flowing through the heating unit, or the location of the warm-air outlet and the return-air inlet on the furnace. Gas furnaces can be described as upflow, downflow (counterflow), highboy, lowboy, and horizontal flow. Air can flow up through the furnace (upflow), down through the furnace (downflow), or across the furnace (horizontal). The arrangement of the furnace should not significantly affect its operation, or your inspection. BTU Gas furnaces can be classified by their different capacities. A furnace capacity can be described by BTU output. The BTU is determined by what is required by the heating unit for the structure, which is the amount of heat the unit needs to produce to replace heat loss and provide the occupants a good comfort level. AFUE Furnaces can be identified and described by heating efficiency. The energy efficiency of a natural gas furnace is measured by its annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE). The higher the rating, the more efficient the furnace. The U.S. government has established a minimum rating for furnaces of 78%. Mid-efficiency furnaces have AFUE ratings from 78 to 82%. High-efficiency furnaces have AFUE ratings from 88 to 97%. Old, standing-pilot gas furnaces have AFUE ratings from 60 to 65%. Gravity warm-air furnaces might have efficiencies lower than 60%.
BTU and Efficiency BTU stands for British Thermal Unit. The BTU is a unit of energy. It is approximately the amount of energy needed to heat one pound of water 1 degree Fahrenheit. Once cubic foot of natural gas contains about 1,000 BTUs. A gas furnace that fires at a rate of 100,000 BTUs per hour will burn about 100 cubic feet of gas every hour. On a gas furnace, there should be a data plate. On that plate there might be written the input and output capacities. For example, the data plate may say, "Input 100,000 BTU per hour." And it may also say, "Output 80,000 BTU per hour." While this furnace is running, about 20% of the heat generated is lost out through the exhaust gases. The ratio of the output to the input BTU is 80,000 ÷ 100,000 = 80% efficiency. This is the "steady state efficiency" of the furnace. Steady state efficiency measures how efficiently a furnace converts fuel to heat, once the furnace has warmed up and is running steadily. However, furnaces cycle on and off as they maintain their desired temperature. Furnaces typically do not operate as efficiently as they start up and cool down.
As a result, steady state efficiency is not as reliable an indicator of the overall efficiency of your furnace. AFUE and Efficiency The AFUE is the most widely used measure of a furnace's heating efficiency. It measures the amount of heat delivered to your house compared to the amount of fuel that must be supplied to the furnace. Thus, a furnace that has an 80% AFUE rating converts 80% of the fuel that is supplied to heat. The other 20% is lost and wasted. Note that the AFUE refers only to the unit's fuel efficiency, not its electricity usage. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) determined that all furnaces sold in the U.S. must have a minimum AFUE of 78%, beginning January 1, 1992. Mobile home furnaces are required to have a minimum AFUE of 75%.
These fires typically cause an alarming 500 deaths and 2,800 serious injuries.Over $1 billion in property and personal possessions are destroyed.An additional 890,000 electrical related fires in homes go unreported every year!.
Every year in North America 82,500 MAJOR electrical related fires are reported.
In 50% of fatal structure fires response time is 5 minutes or less.
It can take less than 3 minutes for a smoldering fire to reach flash over (900oF) and engulf an entire room! In 2006, heating equipment was involved in an estimated 64,100 reported home structure fires, 540 civilian deaths, 1,400 civilian injuries, and $943 million in direct property damage.
In 2006, most home heating fire deaths (73%) and, injuries (43%) and half (51%) of associated direct property damage involved stationary or portable space heaters.
Space heating poses a much higher risk of fire, death, injury, and loss per million users than central heating. Comparisons of risk among different types of space heaters or different types of central heating show no clear, consistent, significant differences.
My home inspection lasted about 1.5 hrs. The inspector was from one of the larger inspection companies. A friend used the company and apparently had a very competent inspector.
At the time I thought my inspector was good. In hindsight he missed a lot of things that in my opinion an inspection should discover. He had a bad back and could barely bend down so he only looked in places in plain sight. He barely peeked behind the knee walls upstairs. He didn't look under the front porch. He claimed he looked at the roof with binoculars before I got there...
I was clueless at the time and really depended on him to seek out anything that may be a long term issue. Every single system he looked at he wrote a disclaimer to have someone else inspect it. When the inspection was complete I needed a builder to look at the structure, an electrician to look at the electrical, an exterminator to look for any bug damage. The list went on and on.
His disclaimer would have required me to hire someone from pretty much every trade out there to look at the house. The whole inspection report was one big CYA for him and his company.
I hired accurate inspection of atlanta the next time to perform another inspection because I wasn't satisfied. He found things that were electrical code violation and one circuit had oversized wiring and had started melting the insulation. The chimney was pulling away from the structure. Luckly I hired him to perform this warranty inspection. If not I would have been out a lot of money.I think I will and never go with one of the big inspection firms.
Accurate Home inspections of Atlanta
can provide you with a level of accountability, professionalism by a qualified building codes inspector knowledgeable of the home building industry. Inspection area 50 mile radius of Atlanta.
Disclaimer: ActiveRain Corp. does not necessarily endorse the real estate agents, loan officers and brokers listed on this site. These real estate profiles, blogs and blog entries are provided here as a courtesy to our visitors to help them make an informed decision when buying or selling a house. ActiveRain Corp. takes no responsibility for the content in these profiles, that are written by the members of this community.
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