Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta

Cutting Cost with Older Homes

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Sat, 28 Nov 2009 20:19:48 -0600

It's usually considered an advantage to have a tight home; limiting air movement through the building envelope means you don't lose the air you've paid to heat, right?But what about all those sweaty, smelly bodies, human and dog, especially wet dog? Easy answer! Just take a shower/put him out ‘til he's dry,
Jeez, some people! But wait... people, showers, dish and clothes washers and cooking put moisture into the air and a number of activities put odors into the air. This means for the home to have clean, comfortable air, stale air must be ventilated to the outside and be replaced with clean air.

There are different methods used to recover the heat from the stale home air before it's ventilated to the outside. One way is with a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV). Wherever did they get that name? HRV's work by passing outgoing warm air past incoming cold air. A good portion of the heat is transferred to the incoming cold air, which means you heat less air and save more money.

Inadequate number of air exchanges per hour can result in...

Excessive humidity
unpleasant odors
Increase in mold spore concentrations
Control of moisture around the home increases efficiency and comfort.Consistent moisture levels are more easily maintained inside the conditioned space
when surrounding areas are dry.
Crawl spaces may be susceptible to bulk moisture in part because there are no waterproofing requirements for "uninhabitable" under-floor areas. Crawl vents allow airborne moisture air contact with framing, pipes and ducts.

Basements require deeper excavation than crawl spaces. Their floors are "closer" to seasonal high water tables and are subject to higher soil and moisture loads. Measures to reduce bulk moisture around the perimeter of the home include:
1) Maintain roof drainage: Keep gutters clean and properly pitched, pipe downspouts away from foundation walls. 2) Create a positive slope away from foundation walls. Install drains, swales, or retaining walls, add soil where backfill has settled. Fill voids under walks, stoops and patios.
If bulk moisture (visible signe of water) is controlled airborne moisture can be reduced by closing crawl or basement vents.

Maintaining Home plumbing/Dripping faucets can lose over 100 gallons per day, more than 4000 gallons per month

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:12:59 -0600

Maintaining the plumbing system in your home is very important. Correcting problems immediately can prevent costly repairs to your home and to the fixtures. Even minor leaks can cause major damage and waste thousands of gallons of water. Before taking on any plumbing repair, always turn off water to the fixture or to the entire house. Click on the links below for helpful maintenance and conservation tips.

TOILETS: Toilets use up to 40% of our total water consumption. Running toilets can waste hundreds of gallons of water each day. If the toilet should have a running water sound, if the toilet fills when it is not in use, or if the toilet doesn t stop running, it is time for a repair. Replacing the flapper, the flush valve, or both will correct this problem. To check for smaller leaks in your toilet tank, turn the water off to the toilet, take the lid off of the tank, mark the water level, and come back an hour or two later to see if the water level dropped.

If the water level drops, it is time for a repair. If your toilet leaks at the floor, the wax seal should be replaced. If your toilet is loose or rocks when you sit on it, it probably needs a new wax seal and new toilet bolts. Letting this problem go without correction can cause costly damage to the flooring, and to the ceiling below. If your toilet should clog, attempt to plunge with an ordinary household plunger. If this doesn t correct the problem, different equipment is needed, and you should call a qualified plumbing contractor.

FAUCETS: Repair leaky faucets to save water and prevent further damage to the faucet or the fixture. There are numerous brands of faucets and replacement parts. Be sure to use the correct replacement parts for your faucet. Over time, the aerators on your faucets can become clogged and reduce pressure. To maximize performance, the aerator should be cleaned periodically.

Conservation Tip:
Dripping faucets can lose over 100 gallons per day, more than 4000 gallons per month. Fixing problems quickly can save water and money.

Conservation Tip: Replacing old showerheads can save water without compromising water pressure.
Old showerheads can use up to 7.5 gallons per minute, while newer ones use as little as 2.2 gallons per minute. Plus, if you are using fewer gallons per minute of hot water, it will keep your shower running hotter for a longer period of time.

HOT WATER HEATERS: Maintenance on your water heater should be done at least once per year, and preferably twice per year. To flush sediment build up in the tank, drain a few gallons of water from the faucet located at the bottom of the tank. Test the temperature / pressure relief valve on the top or side of the water heater by pulling up on the lever and allowing some water to come out. If the lever is stuck or no water comes out, this fitting should be replaced. This is a safety feature and needs to be operating properly for your protection. Never keep any flammable liquids or solvents near your water heater or furnace. The pilot flame could spark an explosion.

These pumps operate in a very harsh environment (submersed in sewage) and often fail after just a few years. Failure of your pump could mean sewage back-up in your basement. {Consider installing an alarm in your sewage ejector tank. An alarm is designed to buzz loudly in the event of pump failure. Assuming you're home when this occurs, you should have ample time to shut-off your water before the sewage reaches flood level.Remember, alarms can fail too! It is best to NOT store valuable items on the basement floor if they could be damaged by water or sewage flooding.

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Basement Flooding/Three common plumbing upgrades.

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Tue, 24 Nov 2009 14:54:32 -0600

Basement Flooding

Basement flooding due to sewer backup is an all too frequent occurrence in certain areas during heavy rainstorms. Many people are not aware that they can modify the plumbing in their houses to positively prevent sewage from entering their basements. Three different approaches are common and the one you choose depends on the piping layout of your house.

Determine what plumbing arrangement your home has:

In the most basic type of basement plumbing, the basement drains are joined directly to the sewer pipe before it leaves the house. This plumbing is found in many older homes with basements and no sump pumps. Both sewage and footing drain water enter the sanitary sewer. Excessive footing drain flow
from a residence may or may not cause flooding in that particular home. The footing drain flow contributes to any sewer or basement flooding that may occur. Your home may also have one of the following basement plumbing enhancements. Whatever your current plumbing arrangement, there usually are further steps that can be taken to prevent basement flooding.

Three common plumbing upgrades

Upgrade #1: Add a Sump Pump

A sump pump is needed as part of any corrective measure. The sump pump removes the footing drain water from around the basement wall and discharges it to the surface of the ground, a ditch, or a storm sewer, depending on the surface grading around the house. Many communities require that new homes include sump pumps. Sump pumps in new homes usually discharge to the storm sewer system. To protect a basement from flooding due to sewer backup, the plumbing fixtures and floor drain in the basement also need to be disconnected from the municipal sewer.

Upgrade #2: Add a Sump Pump and Valves

If a sump pump is not sufficient, a check valve and a shut-off valve can be installed to provide a good measure of protection from basement flooding. These valves can isolate the house plumbing from the public sewer in the street. The check valve includes a flapper that shuts when water level in the public sewer is high enough to flow back into the house. The shut-off valve can be manually closed as an added measure of protection. The shut-off valve will also need to be closed if debris becomes lodged in the check valve preventing its full closure.

The homeowner will need to discontinue or, at least, sharply curtail the use of the sanitary facilities while the potential for flooding exists. During this time, showers, the clothes washer, and dishwasher cannot be used.

Upgrade #3: Add a Sump Pump and an Ejector Pump

An ejector pump can provide still further protection. An ejector pump can be installed to pump the sewage into the public sewer whether it is flooded or not. If there is a power failure, the homeowner will need to discontinue use of the sanitary facilities. Both the sump pump and the ejector pump can be installed

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CALL THe Reat Then Call the best. 14 yrs Municipality inspector. Open my own business since 1998. Over 6,000 home inspected and still counting.

Heating Equipment Fire Deaths

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:15:08 -0600

In 2005, heating equipment was involved in an estimated 62,000 reported U.S. Home Structure
fires, with losses of 670 deaths,1550 injuries, and to the tune of 909 million in propert damage.
Homes refers to one-and-two-family dwellings. This includes mobile homes and town homes.Chimneys
and Flue connections accounted for about 32%.Home gas heating was 73% of deaths, and 64% injuries
and around 57% of propert Damage.

In 2005 Chimneys accounted for 93% of total home chimney fires or chimney connector fires. In 2000-2003there were 2.7 electrocutions deaths per year involving electric water heaters, and 1.8 electrocutions
from elctrical heaters.

As winter approches make sure for your familys safety not to cut corners due to a slow econmony, and fail
to have your systems inspected for proper installation, adeqaute repairs that may have been made. Have
system check for carbon monoxide leaks, adequate exhuast flues, no back drafting. It will not only be safefor your family it will save you money when your system is operating at its peak perform.64% of structure fires were the results of improper repairs.

Different Private Wells In Rural Areas Part 2

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:50:20 -0600

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta. www.findmeaninspector.com

With recent heavy rain in the south east region it is easy to contaminate you drinking water!

Dug Wells

Dug wells are holes in the ground dug by shovel or backhoe. Historically, a dug well was excavated below the groundwater table until incoming water exceeded the diggers bailing rate. The well was then lined (cased) with stones, brick, tile, or other material to prevent collapse. It was covered with a cap of wood, stone, or concrete. Since it is so difficult to dig beneath the ground water table, dug wells are not very deep. Typically, they are only 10 to 30 feet deep. Being so shallow, dug wells have the highest risk of becoming contaminated.To minimize the likelihood of contamination, your dug well should have certain features. These features help to prevent contaminants from traveling along the outside of the casing or through the casing and into the well.

Dug Well Construction Features

The well should be cased with a watertight material (for example, tongue-and-groove precast concrete) and a cement grout or bentoniteclay sealant poured along the outside of the casing to the top of the well.
The well should be covered by a concrete curband cap that stands about a foot above the ground.
The land surface around the well should be mounded so that surface water runs away from the well and is not allowed to pond around the outside of the wellhead.
Ideally, the pump for your well should be inside your home or in a separate pump house, rather than in a pit next to the well.

Land activities around a dug well can also contaminate it. While dug wells have been used as a household water supply source for many years, most are relics of older homes, dug before drilling equipment was readily available or when drilling was considered too expensive. If you have a dug well on your property and are using it for drinking water, check to make sure it is properly covered and sealed. Another problem relating to the shallowness of a dug well is that it may go dry during a drought when the ground water table drops.

Driven Wells

Like dug wells, driven wells pull water from the water-saturated zone above the bedrock. Driven wells can be deeper than dug wells. They are typically 30 to 50 feet deep and are usually located in areas with thick sand and gravel deposits where the ground water table is within 15 feet of the grounds surface. In the proper geologic setting, driven wells can be easy and relatively inexpensive to install. Although deeper than dug wells, driven wells are still relatively shallow and have a moderate-to-high risk of contamination from nearby land activities.

Driven Well Construction Features

Assembled lengths of two inches to three inches diameter metal pipes are driven into the ground. Screened well point located at the end of the pipe helps drive the pipe through the sand and gravel. The screen allows water to enter the well and filters out sediment.
The pump for the well is in one of two places: on top ofthe well or in the house. An access pit is usually dug around the well down to the frost line and a water dis-charge pipe to the house is joined to the well pipe with a fitting.
The well and pit are capped with the same kind of large-diameter concrete tile used for a dug well. The access pit may be cased with pre-cast concrete.

To minimize this risk, the well cover should be a tight-fitting concrete curb and cap with no cracks and should sit about a foot above the ground. Slope the ground away from the well so that surface water will not pond around the well. If there's a pit above the well, either to hold the pump or to access the fitting, you may also be able to pour a grout sealant along the outside of the well pipe. Protecting the water quality requires that you maintain proper well construction and monitor your activities around the well. It is also important to follow the same land use precautions around the driven well as described under dug wells.

Drilled Wells

Drilled wells penetrate about 100-400 feet into the bedrock. Where you find bedrock at the surface, it is commonly called ledge. To serve as a water supply, a drilled well must intersect bedrock fractures containing ground water.

Drilled Well Construction Features

The casing is usually metal or plastic pipe, six inches in diameter that extends into the bedrock to prevent shallow ground water from entering the well. By law, the casing has to extend at least 18 feet into the ground, with at least five feet extending into the bedrock. The casing should also extend a foot or two above the grounds surface. A sealant, such as cement grout or bentonite clay, should be poured along the outside of the casing to the top of the well. The well is capped to prevent surface water from entering the well.
Submersible pumps, located near the bottom of the well, are most commonly used in drilled wells. Wells with a shallow water table may feature a jet pump located inside the home. Pumps require special wiring and electrical service. Well pumps should be installed and serviced by a qualified professional registered with your state.
Most modern drilled wells incorporate a pitless adapter designed to provide a sanitary seal at the point where the discharge water line leaves the well to enter your home. The device attaches directly to the casing below the frost line and provides a watertight subsurface connection, protecting the well from frost and contamination.
Older drilled wells may lack some of these sanitary features. The well pipe used was oftene ight-, 10- or 12- inches in diameter, and covered with a concrete well cap either at or below the grounds surface. This outmoded type of construction does not provide the same degree of protection from surface contamination. Also, older wells may not have a pitless adapter to provide a seal at the point of discharge from the well.

A Drilled Well

Hydrofracting is a process that applies water or air under pressure into your well to open up existing fractures near your well and can even create new ones. Often this can increase the yield of your well. This process can be applied to new wells with insufficient yield and to improve the quantity of older wells.

How can I test the quality of my private drinking water supply?

Consider testing your well for pesticides, organic chemicals, and heavy metals before you use it for the first time. Test private water supplies annually for nitrate and coliform bacteria to detect contamination problems early. Test them more frequently if you suspect a problem. Be aware of activities in your watershed that may affect the water quality of your well, especially if you live in an unsewered area.

Human Health

The first step to protect your health and the health of your family is learning about what may pollute your source of drinking water. Potential contamination may occur naturally, or as a result of human activity.

What are Some Naturally Occurring Sources of Pollution?

Microorganisms: Bacteria, viruses, parasites and other microorganisms are sometimes found in water. Shallow wells those with water close to ground level are at most risk. Runoff, or water flowing over the land surface, may pick up these pollutants from wildlife and soils. This is often the case after flooding. Some of these organisms can cause a variety of illnesses. Symptoms include nausea and diarrhea. These can occur shortly after drinking contaminated water. The effects could be short-term yet severe (similar to food poisoning) or might recur frequently or develop slowly over a long time.
Radionuclides: Radionuclide's are radioactive elements such as uranium and radium. They may be present in underlying rock and ground water
Radon: Radon is a gas that is a natural product of the breakdown of uranium in the soil can also pose a threat. Radon is most dangerous when inhaled and contributes to lung cancer. Although soil is the primary source, using household water containing Radon contributes to elevated indoor Radon levels. Radon is less dangerous when consumed in water, but remains a risk to health.
Nitrates and Nitrites: Although high nitrate levels are usually due to human activities (see below), they may be found naturally in ground water. They come from the breakdown of nitrogen compounds in the soil. Flowing ground water picks them up from the soil. Drinking large amounts of nitrates and nitrites is particularly threatening to infants (for example, when mixed in formula).
Heavy Metals: Underground rocks and soils may contain arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead, and selenium. However, these contaminants are not often found in household wells at dangerous levels from natural sources.
Fluoride: Fluoride is helpful in dental health, so many water systems add small amounts to drinking water. However, excessive consumption of naturally occurring fluoride can damage bone tissue. High levels of fluoride occur naturally in some areas. It may discolor teeth, but this is not a health risk.

What Human Activities Can Pollute Ground Water?

Septic tanks are designed to have a leach field around them an area where wastewater flows out of the tank. This wastewater can also move into the ground water.

Bacteria and Nitrates: These pollutants are found in human and animal wastes. Septic tanks can cause bacterial and nitrate pollution. So can large numbers of farm animals. Both septic systems and animal manures must be carefully managed to prevent pollution. Sanitary landfills and garbage dumps are also sources. Children and some adults are at extra risk when exposed to water-born bacteria. These include the elderly and people whose immune systems are weak due to AIDS or treatments for cancer. Fertilizers can add to nitrate problems. Nitrates cause a health threat in very young infants called blue baby syndrome. This condition disrupts oxygen flow in the blood.

Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs): The number of CAFOs, often called factory farms, is growing. On these farms thousands of animals are raised in a small space. The large amounts of animal wastes/manures from these farms can threaten water supplies. Strict and careful manure management is needed to prevent pathogen and nutrient problems. Salts from high levels of manures can also pollute ground water.

Heavy Metals: Activities such as mining and construction can release large amounts of heavy metals into nearby ground water sources. Some older fruit orchards may contain high levels of arsenic, once used as a pesticide. At high levels, these metals pose a health risk.

Fertilizers and Pesticides: Farmers use fertilizers and pesticides to promote growth and reduce insect damage. These products are also used on golf courses and suburban lawns and gardens. The chemicals in these products may end up in ground water. Such pollution depends on the types and amounts of chemicals used and how they are applied. Local environmental conditions (soil types, seasonal snow and rainfall) also affect this pollution. Many fertilizers contain forms of nitrogen that can break down into harmful nitrates. This could add to other sources of nitrates mentioned above. Some underground agricultural drainage systems collect fertilizers and pesticides. This polluted water can pose problems to ground water and local streams and rivers. In addition, chemicals used to treat buildings and homes for termites or other pests may also pose a threat. Again, the possibility of problems depends on the amount and kind of chemicals. The types of soil and the amount of water moving through the soil also play a role.

Industrial Products and Wastes: Many harmful chemicals are used widely in local business and industry. These can become drinking water pollutants if not well managed. The most common sources of such problems are:

Local Businesses: These include nearby factories, industrial plants, and even small businesses such as gas stations and dry cleaners. All handle a variety of hazardous chemicals that need careful management. Spills and improper disposal of these chemicals or of industrial wastes can threaten ground water supplies.
Leaking Underground Tanks & Piping: Petroleum products, chemicals, and wastes stored in underground storage tanks and pipes may end up in the ground water. Tanks and piping leak if they are constructed or installed improperly. Steel tanks and piping corrode with age. Tanks are often found on farms. The possibility of leaking tanks is great on old, abandoned farm sites. Farm tanks are exempt from the EPA rules for petroleum and chemical tanks.
Landfills and Waste Dumps: Modern landfills are designed to contain any leaking liquids. But floods can carry them over the barriers. Older dumpsites may have a wide variety of pollutants that can seep into ground water.

Household Wastes: Improper disposal of many common products can pollute ground water. These include cleaning solvents, used motor oil, paints, and paint thinners. Even soaps and detergents can harm drinking water. These are often a problem from faulty septic tanks and septic leaching fields.

Lead & Copper: Household plumbing materials are the most common source of lead and copper in home drinking water. Corrosive water may cause metals in pipes or soldered joints to leach into your tap water. Your waters acidity or alkalinity (often measured as pH) greatly affects corrosion. Temperature and mineral content also affect how corrosive it is. They are often used in pipes, solder, or plumbing fixtures. Lead can cause serious damage to the brain, kidneys, nervous system, and red blood cells. The age of plumbing materials in particular, copper pipes soldered with lead is also important. Even in relatively low amounts these metals can be harmful. EPA rules under the Safe Drinking Water Act limit lead in drinking water to 15 parts per billion. Since 1988 the Act only allows lead free pipe, solder, and flux in drinking water systems. The law covers both new installations and repairs of plumbing.

What You Can Do...

Private, individual wells are the responsibility of the homeowner. To help protect your well, here are some steps you can take:

Have your water tested periodically. It is recommended that water be tested every year for total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids, and pH levels. If you suspect other contaminants, test for those. Always use a state certified laboratory that conducts drinking water tests. Since these can be expensive, spend some time identifying potential problems.

Testing more than once a year may be warranted in special situations:

someone in your household is pregnant or nursing
there are unexplained illnesses in the family
your neighbors find a dangerous contaminant in their water
you note a change in water taste, odor, color or clarity
there is a spill of chemicals or fuels into or near your well
when you replace or repair any part of your well system

Identify potential problems as the first step to safeguarding your drinking water. The best way to start is to consult a local expert, someone that knows your area, such as the local health department, agricultural extension agent, a nearby public water system, or a geologist at a local university.

Be aware of your surroundings. As you drive around your community, take note of new construction. Check the local newspaper for articles about new construction in your area.

Check the paper or call your local planning or zoning commission for announcements about hearings or zoning appeals on development or industrial projects that could possibly affect your water.

Attend these hearings, ask questions about how your water source is being protected, and don't be satisfied with general answers. Make statements like "If you build this landfill, (just an example) what will you do to ensure that my water will be protected." See how quickly they answer and provide specifics about what plans have been made to specifically address that issue.

Identify Potential Problem Sources

To start your search for potential problems, begin close to home. Do a survey around your well:

is there livestock nearby?
are pesticides being used on nearby agricultural crops or nurseries?
do you use lawn fertilizers near the well?
is your well "downstream" from your own or a neighbor's septic system?
is your well located near a road that is frequently salted or sprayed with de-icers during winter months?
do you or your neighbors dispose of household wastes or used motor oil in the backyard, even in small amounts?

If any of these items apply, it may be best to have your water tested and talk to your local public health department or agricultural extension agent to find way to change some of the practices which can affect your private well.

In addition to the immediate area around your well, you should be aware of other possible sources of contamination that may already be part of your community or may be moving into your area. Attend any local planning or appeal hearings to find out more about the construction of facilities that may pollute your drinking water. Ask to see the environmental impact statement on the project. See if underground drinking water sources has been addressed. If not, ask why.

Common Sources of Potiental Ground Water Contamination

Category	Contaminant Source
Agricultural	Animal burial areas Drainage fields/wells Animal feedlots Irrigation sites Fertilizer storage/use Manure spreading areas/pits, lagoons Pesticide storage/use
Commercial	Airports Jewelry/metal plating Auto repair shops Laundromats Boatyards Medical institutions Car washes Paint shops Construction areas Photography establishments Cemeteries Process waste water drainage Dry cleaners fields/wells Gas stations Railroad tracks and yards Gulf courses Research laboratories Scrap and junkyards Storage tanks
Industrial	Asphalt plants Petroleum production/storage Chemical manufacture/storage Pipelines Electronic manufacture Process waste water drainage Electroplaters fields/wells Foundries/metal fabricators Septage lagoons and sludge Machine/metalworking shops Storage tanks Mining and mine drainage Toxic and hazardous spills Wood preserving facilities
Residential	Fuel Oil Septic systems, cesspools Furniture stripping/refinishing Sewer lines Household hazardous products Swimming pools (chemicals) Household lawns
Other	Hazardous waste landfills Recycling/reduction facilities Municipal incinerators Road deicing operations Municipal landfills Road maintenance depots Municipal sewer lines Storm water drains/basins/wells Open burning sites Transfer stations

Water Wells in Rural Areas Part 1

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 15:16:49 -0600

ACCURATE HOME INSPECTION OF ATLANTA 404 680-4578

www.atlantainspectionnews.com

If your family gets drinking water from a private well, do you know if your water is safe to drink? What health risks could you and your family face? Where can you go for help or advice? EPA regulates public water systems; it does not have the authority to regulate private drinking water wells. Approximately 15 percent of Americans rely on their own private drinking water supplies, and these supplies are not subject to EPA standards, although some state and local governments do set rules to protect users of these wells. Unlike public drinking water systems serving many people, they do not have experts regularly checking the waters source and its quality before it is sent to the tap. These households must take special precautions to ensure the protection and maintenance of their drinking water supplies.

Basic Information

There are three types of private drinking water wells: dug, driven, and drilled. Proper well construction and continued maintenance are keys to the safety of your water supply. Your state water-well contractor licensing agency, local health department, or local water system professional can provide information on well construction. The well should be located so rainwater flows away from it. Rainwater can pick up harmful bacteria and chemicals on the lands surface. If this water pools near your well, it can seep into it, potentially causing health problems. Water-well drillers and pump-well installers are listed in your local phone directory. The contractor should be bonded and insured. Make certain your ground water contractor is registered or licensed in your state, if required. If your state does not have a licensing/registration program contact the National Ground Water Association. They have a voluntary certification program for contractors. (In fact, some states use the Associations exams as their test for licensing.) For a list of certified contractors in your state contact the Association at (614) 898-7791 or (800) 551-7379. There is no cost for mailing or faxing the list to you.

To keep your well safe, you must be sure possible sources of contamination are not close by. Experts suggest the following distances as a minimum for protection farther is better:

Septic Tanks, 50 feet
Livestock yards, Silos, Septic Leach Fields, 50 feet
Patroleum Tanks, Liquid-Tight Manure Storage and Fertilizer Storage and Handling, 100 feet
Manure Stacks, 250 feet

Many homeowners tend to forget the value of good maintenance until problems reach crisis levels. That can be expensive. Its better to maintain your well, find problems early, and correct them to protect your wells performance. Keep up-to-date records of well installation and repairs plus pumping and water tests. Such records can help spot changes and possible problems with your water system. If you have problems, ask a local expert to check your well construction and maintenance records. He or she can see if your system is okay or needs work.

Protect your own well area. Be careful about storage and disposal of household and lawn care chemicals and wastes. Good farmers and gardeners minimize the use of fertilizers and pesticides. Take steps to reduce erosion and prevent surface water runoff. Regularly check underground storage tanks that hold home heating oil, diesel, or gasoline. Make sure your well is protected from the wastes of livestock, pets, and wildlife.

FIRE SAFE HEATING SYSTEMS

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 17:34:15 -0500

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta www.findmeaninspector.com

Cold winter weather brings cozy evenings, and an increase in the use of home heating equipment. It's probably time to give your heating system a safety check. Heating equipment failures or malfunctions are one of the leading causes of all home fires. We can reduce the occurrence of these types of fires with a little preventative maintenance and some good fire safety habits.

The following are some tips for safety around heating systems:

Never discard hot ashes inside or near the home. Place them in a covered metal container outside and well away from the house.
If you use a wood-burning stove or fireplace, have a licensed chimney sweep clean and inspect your chimney at least once a year.
Place a glass or metal spark screen in front of the fireplace and install caps on chimneys.
Never use a flammable liquid (gasoline, kerosene, lighter fluid, etc.) to start a fire or rekindle a small one.
Keep paper, clothing, trash, and other combustibles at least three feet away from your furnace, hot water heater, or wood-burning device.
Have a professional clean and inspected your heating system yearly. This may prevent a fire and will make your heating system more energy efficient.
Keep portable heaters away from curtains, beds, clothes, and children. Make sure there is at least three feet of clearance around the heater for proper ventilation. Turn heaters off when you leave the room or go to bed.
Never refuel the heater while it is operating or while it is still hot. Always refuel outside. Avoid overfilling.
Be sure your space heater has an emergency shut off in case the heater is tipped over.

SEER 13 AIR CONDITIONERS

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 15:14:30 -0500

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Atlanta professinal Inspection service company. Over 14yrs experience. Call the rest the call the best!

The standard for newly installed air conditioners has changed from SEER 10 to SEER 13: a 30% increase in efficiency. However, for many with older homes (pre-1992), the increase in efficiency can be even greater than 30%, due to the older units much lower SEER ratings--usually around 6 or 7. Thus the "payback" will be even bigger, and faster, and the reduction in electricity costs will be even nicer!

Initially, the up front costs for the new SEER 13 units are going to be higher than the SEER 10 units. Talking with a well respected Atlanta HVAC firm who represents several well known brands, the representative noted the price difference between a SEER 10 and a SEER 13 two-and-a-half ton unit, including the cost of a matching evaporator coil (if needed) would range about $600 higher on average.

There may be additional costs for sheet-metal work around the new, larger sized evaporator coil at the furnace, possibly new copper tubing from the compressor to the evaporator. The new units require very clean plumbing, so the current plumbing may need to be cleaned or replaced. The new units required 40% more "freon".

There has been much speculation about how much larger the new outside units will be. Actually some manufacturers like Amana, Goodman and Bryant (and perhaps others) new units will be the same or smaller than their current SEER 10 units.

A new digital thermostat is recommended if your unit is an older, say 15 year old analog thermostat, for more efficient operation.

And, just like car a/c systems where the old R-12 was changed, in 2010 the current R-22 air conditioner coolant will be changed to the R-410A. At least one manufacturer, Carrier, already includes the new freon, so you‘ll already have an a/c that meets the SEER 13 requirements with the new coolant

Home Buyers and Home sellers.

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 22:09:42 -0500

Through the years we all get older...even our homes,cars etc. Proper maintainance on a home is a steady, and some times costy effort to keep up with. That brings me to this residential code I think all home sellers need to know.International Residential Code Council Ref {R102.7}- Provisions allowing the legal occupancy of a residential structure to continue without fully compling with current codes are grandfather-In.

The IRC provides such relief to home owners. To impose regulations to bring existing structures into current compliance would be impractical and unreasonable and penalized the owners. Since the structure was constructed in compliance with all applicable building standards at the time of construction.Of course, if due to lack of repair or improper repair and maintance,and the structure falls below generally acceptable threshold for sanitation,health,safety, and welfare, the IRC requires corrections in accordance with spefic codes.Additions,alterations or repairs cannot cause any portion of the existing structure to unsafe or affect performance by added excessive loads to exist on structural members,impededfire egress,overload the
electrical service, or exceeds plumbing capacity DWV system.If any of the affected elements would need to be brought into compliance with current codes.

There is a appendix J clause such as water heater replacement,heating or air system or componets will have to be installed to todays IRC Code standards. As a code inspector we don't perform code inspections when performing home inspection. But when safety codes are missed and somethings tragic happens all eyes seem to look at you.

The Georgia state mininum for residential structres are outlined.

The Uniform Codes Act is codified at chapter 2 of title 8 of The Official Code of Georgia Annotated. O.C.G.A. Section 8-2-20(9)(B) identifies the ten "state minimum standard codes". Each of these separate codes typically consist of a base code (e.g. The International Building Code as published by the International Code Council) and a set of Georgia amendments to the base code. Georgia law further dictates that eight of these codes are "mandatory" (are applicable to all construction whether or not they are locally enforced.

1.) International Building Code
2.)One and Two Family Dwelling Code (International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family Dwellings
3.)International Fire Code
4.)International Plumbing Code
5.)International Mechanical Code
6.)Fuel Gas Code
7.)National Electrical Code
8.) Energy Conservation Code

As noted above, the building, one and two family dwelling, fire, plumbing, mechanical, gas, electrical and energy codes are mandatory codes, meaning that under Georgia law, any structure built in Georgia must comply with these codes, whether or not the local government chooses to locally enforce these codes.

So remember if you are trying to sell in this market have a pre-listing inspection to see what needs to be brought up to codes.It will help sell faster as well.

Home Heating Componets/ and Requirements

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 20:54:38 -0500

Gas Furnaces There are a variety of ways to describe different types residential gas furnaces. Gas furnaces can be classified by:

the direction of the air flowing through the heating unit;
the heating efficiency of the unit; and
the type of ignition system installed on the unit.

Airflow in Gas Furnaces One way to identify and describe a gas furnace is by the direction of the air flowing through the heating unit, or the location of the warm-air outlet and the return-air inlet on the furnace. Gas furnaces can be described as upflow, downflow (counterflow), highboy, lowboy, and horizontal flow. Air can flow up through the furnace (upflow), down through the furnace (downflow), or across the furnace (horizontal). The arrangement of the furnace should not significantly affect its operation, or your inspection. BTU Gas furnaces can be classified by their different capacities. A furnace capacity can be described by BTU output. The BTU is determined by what is required by the heating unit for the structure, which is the amount of heat the unit needs to produce to replace heat loss and provide the occupants a good comfort level. AFUE Furnaces can be identified and described by heating efficiency. The energy efficiency of a natural gas furnace is measured by its annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE). The higher the rating, the more efficient the furnace. The U.S. government has established a minimum rating for furnaces of 78%. Mid-efficiency furnaces have AFUE ratings from 78 to 82%. High-efficiency furnaces have AFUE ratings from 88 to 97%. Old, standing-pilot gas furnaces have AFUE ratings from 60 to 65%. Gravity warm-air furnaces might have efficiencies lower than 60%.

BTU and Efficiency BTU stands for British Thermal Unit. The BTU is a unit of energy. It is approximately the amount of energy needed to heat one pound of water 1 degree Fahrenheit. Once cubic foot of natural gas contains about 1,000 BTUs. A gas furnace that fires at a rate of 100,000 BTUs per hour will burn about 100 cubic feet of gas every hour. On a gas furnace, there should be a data plate. On that plate there might be written the input and output capacities. For example, the data plate may say, "Input 100,000 BTU per hour." And it may also say, "Output 80,000 BTU per hour." While this furnace is running, about 20% of the heat generated is lost out through the exhaust gases. The ratio of the output to the input BTU is 80,000 ÷ 100,000 = 80% efficiency. This is the "steady state efficiency" of the furnace. Steady state efficiency measures how efficiently a furnace converts fuel to heat, once the furnace has warmed up and is running steadily. However, furnaces cycle on and off as they maintain their desired temperature. Furnaces typically do not operate as efficiently as they start up and cool down.

As a result, steady state efficiency is not as reliable an indicator of the overall efficiency of your furnace. AFUE and Efficiency The AFUE is the most widely used measure of a furnace's heating efficiency. It measures the amount of heat delivered to your house compared to the amount of fuel that must be supplied to the furnace. Thus, a furnace that has an 80% AFUE rating converts 80% of the fuel that is supplied to heat. The other 20% is lost and wasted. Note that the AFUE refers only to the unit's fuel efficiency, not its electricity usage. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) determined that all furnaces sold in the U.S. must have a minimum AFUE of 78%, beginning January 1, 1992. Mobile home furnaces are required to have a minimum AFUE of 75%.

Is your Home safe from fire due to heating ?

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 19:46:21 -0500

These fires typically cause an alarming 500 deaths and 2,800 serious injuries.Over $1 billion in property and personal possessions are destroyed.An additional 890,000 electrical related fires in homes go unreported every year!.

Every year in North America 82,500 MAJOR electrical related fires are reported.

In 50% of fatal structure fires response time is 5 minutes or less.

It can take less than 3 minutes for a smoldering fire to reach flash over (900oF) and engulf an entire room! In 2006, heating equipment was involved in an estimated 64,100 reported home structure fires, 540 civilian deaths, 1,400 civilian injuries, and $943 million in direct property damage.

In 2006, most home heating fire deaths (73%) and, injuries (43%) and half (51%) of associated direct property damage involved stationary or portable space heaters.

Space heating poses a much higher risk of fire, death, injury, and loss per million users than central heating. Comparisons of risk among different types of space heaters or different types of central heating show no clear, consistent, significant differences.

Real Estate Inspection news-I Don't Need a Inspection

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 17:12:07 -0500

My home inspection lasted about 1.5 hrs. The inspector was from one of the larger inspection companies. A friend used the company and apparently had a very competent inspector.

At the time I thought my inspector was good. In hindsight he missed a lot of things that in my opinion an inspection should discover. He had a bad back and could barely bend down so he only looked in places in plain sight. He barely peeked behind the knee walls upstairs. He didn't look under the front porch. He claimed he looked at the roof with binoculars before I got there...

I was clueless at the time and really depended on him to seek out anything that may be a long term issue. Every single system he looked at he wrote a disclaimer to have someone else inspect it. When the inspection was complete I needed a builder to look at the structure, an electrician to look at the electrical, an exterminator to look for any bug damage. The list went on and on.

His disclaimer would have required me to hire someone from pretty much every trade out there to look at the house. The whole inspection report was one big CYA for him and his company.

I hired accurate inspection of atlanta the next time to perform another inspection because I wasn't satisfied. He found things that were electrical code violation and one circuit had oversized wiring and had started melting the insulation. The chimney was pulling away from the structure. Luckly I hired him to perform this warranty inspection. If not I would have been out a lot of money.I think I will and never go with one of the big inspection firms.

Heat Pump Energy-efficient In south east.

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 17:57:08 -0500

When a heat pump is operating in the heating mode or heat cycle, the outdoor air is relatively cool and the outdoor coil acts as an evaporator.Under certain conditions of temperature and relative humidity, frost might form on the surface of the outdoor coil. The layer of frost will interfere with the operation of the heat pump by making the pump work harder and, therefore, inefficiently. The frost must be removed. A heat pump has a cycle called a defrost cycle, which removes the frost from the outdoor coil.

A heat pump unit will defrost regularly when frost conditions occur.The defrost cycle should be long enough to melt the ice, and short enough to be energy-efficient.

In the defrost cycle, the heat pump is automatically operated in reverse, for a moment, in the cooling cycle.This action temporarily warms up the outdoor coil and melts the frost from the coil. In this defrost cycle, the outdoor fan is prevented from turning on when the heat pump switches over,and the temperature rise of the outdoor coil is accelerated and increased.

The heat pump will operate in the defrost cycle until the outdoor coil temperature reaches around 57° F.The time it takes to melt and remove accumulated frost from an outdoor coil will vary, depending on the amount of frost and the internal timing device of the system.

Interior Heating Element

During this defrost cycle with older heat pumps, the indoor unit might be operating with the fan blowing cool air. To prevent cool air from being produced and distributed inside the house, an electric heating element can be installed and engaged at the same time as the defrost cycle. In defrost mode, this heating element will automatically turn on, or the interior blower fan will turn off. The heating component is wired up to the second stage of a two-stage thermostat.

The Typical Cycle

The components that make up the defrost cycle system includes a thermostat, timer and a relay. There is a special thermostat or sensor of the defrost cycle system, often referred to as the frost thermostat. It is located on the bottom of the outdoor coil where it can detect the temperature of the coil.

When the outdoor coil temperature drops to around 32° F, the thermostat closes the circuit and makes the system respond. This causes an internal timer to start. Many heat pumps have a generic timer that energizes the defrost relays at certain intervals of time. Some generic timers will energize the defrost
cycle every 30, 60 and 90 minutes.

The defrost relays turn on the compressor, switch the reversing valve of the heat pump, turn on the interior electric heating element, and stop the fan at the outdoor coil from spinning. The unit is now in the defrost cycle.

The unit remains in the defrost cycle (or cooling cycle) until the thermostat on the bottom of the outdoor coil senses that the outdoor coil temperature has reached about 57° F. At that temperature, the outdoor coil should be free of frost. The frost thermostat opens the circuit, stops the timer, then the defrost cycle stops, the internal heater turns off, the valve reverses, and the unit returns to the heating cycle. A typical defrost cycle might run from 30 seconds to a few minutes. The defrost cycles should repeat regularly at timed intervals. An inspector should not observe a rapid cycling of the defrost operation.
In summary, certain conditions can force a heat pump into a defrost cycle (or cooling cycle) where the fan in the outdoor coil is stopped, the indoor fan is stopped or electric heat is turned on, the frost melts and is removed from the outdoor coils. When the frost thermostat is satisfied or a certain pre-set time period elapses, the outdoor fan comes back on, and the heat pump goes back into the heating cycle.

Correctly sized HVAC system is required by Georgia's energy code.

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:16:56 -0500

All air conditioners and heat pumps are specifically designed to work with matched indoor units (furnace or air handler) for optimum efficiency and performance.While an outdoor cooling system may "work" with indoor units, including older systems, it will only operate at its peak potential when it's paired with the right sized system for your home.

Bigger isn't necessarily better when it comes to heating and cooling systems. A system that is too large for your home will frequently cycle on and off, which wastes energy. Plus, it won't run long enough to remove humidity from the air, which can impact the comfort and health of your home. A system that is too small can't do its job of making you comfortable. In this case, it will run continuously to keep up with the thermostat setting, costing you more on your utility bills and potentially shortening the system's life.

The only reliable way to determine the size that best matches the needs of your home is to have a load calculation, which takes into account the square footage of your house, the insulation value of your windows, the amount of insulation in your walls and roof and many other factors.A load calculation is required to ensure proper sizing of the heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) equipment.

The Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) calculation is required by Georgia's energy code. Common rules-of-thumb, such as 1 ton of air conditioning per 600 square feet, are not acceptable because there are many factors, other than the size of the home, that affect the size of heating and air conditioning equipment required.

A correctly sized cooling unit is critical for providing proper dehumidification, comfort,and efficiency.accounts for details such as orientation, window-to-wall area ratio, window type, insulation levels, air infiltration, duct losses and internal heat sources. All are significant factors that affect the load of a home.

A duct design is required to ensure proper sizing of the duct system. The Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) recommends.determining the size of the duct system. A duct sizing calculation takes the size of the HVAC equipment, the corresponding air handler, the air requirements for the rooms and the
type of ducts being installed (hard pipe or flex duct) into account. The common rules-of-thumb for duct sizing such as an assumed friction rate of .1 per 100 feet of ductwork are not acceptable. The air handler, required air flow and duct length and fittings used all contribute to the friction rate and static pressure of a particular system.

To repair or replace, that is the question that likely comes to mind whenever your heating or cooling system stops working like it should. Although repairing may be the most affordable solution now, it might not be the best choice over the long run.When the cost of repairs approaches 50% of the value of your heating or cooling system, it's generally time to replace the system.Even if needed repair costs aren't quite as daunting as 50%, you might want to replace your system if it's more than 12 years old or you've had a history of problems with it.

The BTU from the furnance entering the flue ARE less on a on a induced draft when compared to a gravity draft.A foraced draft even less but this type of furnace would have a plastic vent. Usually two sources of water can cause the corrosion, condensation or rain water. (sometimes Plumbing leaks).

Some condensation is normal at startup. A flue is checked with a micro-manometer after it is at a operating tempature (aprox 10 min.) At this point it should draw. If there is not a draw than there is a venting issue. It can have various reasons: Indueced draft into a masonary (usually exterior) chiminey (this is called a cold cap in some areas) , inducer fan isssues (craks or leaks), flue and/or connecter issues (bird nest, T-connector vs Y a water heater). Bottom Line- testing is beyond the visual home, But visible installation issue are within the scope of a HI , such as a induced drat into a masonary flue (wrong at some geographacial areas) , connecter issues and some inducer fan issues, these should be reported.

Fall And Winter is Around The Corner.Prevent Heat loss-And save money

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:28:57 -0500

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta www.findmeaninspector.com 404 680-4578

TEMPERATURE : When it's cold outside, your mission is to prevent as little heat as possible from leaving your home, because anytime it leaves, you have to pay to replace it. The price you pay is reflected in your monthly heating bill.There are two physical laws which affect how well your home hangs onto its heat.

Temperature Gradient- Heat moves from warm areas to cold areas. Pressure Gradient- Warm air moves from high pressure to low pressure.

HOW HEAT LEAVES YOUR HOME- Thermal Bridging
The living space is warm and it's cold outside. Materials that conduct heat will try to radiate warmth from inside the home to the outside, just like... a radiator! Solid materials like concrete and wood are better radiators than materials like insulation, which is filled with tiny air pockets.Solid materials offer better thermal bridging, allowing heat to move more easily from the warm inside to the cold outside, except in this case, better is worse. Building methods which minimize thermal bridging help save on heating costs.

You Change the Air Pressure
When you turn on a fan in a bathroom, above a stove or in a laundry room, you are pushing warm air out of the home through the fan vent. Whenever anything in your home burns fuel such as wood, propane or natural gas, combustion takes place. Since the products of combustion are poisonous gasses (and moisture), those gasses are vented to the outside, along with warm air from the home.Low air pressure is created in a home when air is removed either by using a fan or by creating a strong draft using the combustion process. Since the air pressure is lower in the warm house, air will come in to replace it... cold air. Nature Changes the Air Pressure-Blowing wind will create areas of high and low pressure around your home, pushing and sucking the warm air out and replacing it with... cold air.

Stack Effect-As cold air enters the home and is heated, the warm air rises and leaves the home through vents in bathrooms and laundry rooms and through cracks and airspaces in and around ceilings.This rising heat loss is called stack effect. As warm air leaves the home through stack effect, it's replaced by cold air.

Are you serious about how to go about cutting your heating and cooling costs?

Follow these steps:

Where appropriate, improve the insulation and air sealing in your home.
Use this guide to help you decide what kinds of changes to your heating and cooling systems will be right for you.
Consult with a registered heating/cooling contractor and your fuel supplier before making a final decision.

Heating Units and Controls
There are four common types of heating units:

A furnace provides heat through a forced air distribution system.
A boiler provides heat through a hydronic distribution system. (Hydronic systems are also referred to as hot water systems.)
A space heater supplies heat directly to the room where it is located.
A heat pump extracts heat from the air, ground or water outside the house and usually delivers it through a forced air distribution system.

Most heating systems need air for combustion. Furnaces, boilers and space heaters that burn fuels need a supply of air to be able to burn properly, and a vent to the outdoors so that combustion gases can escape from the house. Electric heaters do not need to be vented. Combustion is a two-step process: air in, and gases out.

Curtis Petty

The building Inspector Code Enforcement Professional Certification Program adopted by the Association provides a means of gaining recognition of the competency levels acceptable for inspection responsibilities and improved professional standing in the community.

SBCCI (Southern Building Code Congress International)

CAB0/ICC (Council of American Building Officials/International Code Council)

Member Housing Institute,Inc

Bellingham Home Inspector (King of the House) -- Gutter Cleaning

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 13:54:58 -0500

As a Inspector I see where poor maintance from keeping gutters clean or installing gutters guards could have saved the deterioration damage caused. Water is your worst enemy to a home.

Via Steven L. Smith, Bellingham, Wa. Home Inspector (King of the House Home Inspection, Inc):

As a Bellingham WA home inspector, I see this one a lot. I see both sides of the coin: Sellers who have done no maintenance on the home they are selling, to those who have gone all out in their efforts.

In the Pacific Northwest we have many trees growing around our homes. Many of those trees shed their leaves about this time of year. When that occurs, the leaves end up in the gutters more often than not.

When leaves block a gutter, obviously, not much drainage takes place. This is one, usually quite simple, maintenance problem that the seller could have resolved prior to the home inspection. Now, if the seller cannot get up on a ladder, there are affordable avenues available to get this problem resolved. Put simply: Hire someone.

Thanks for stopping by,

Steven L. Smith

This Home Inspectors Take on Haunted Houses

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 13:52:05 -0500

I do not think that I ever inspected a hauted home.Although some hauted me with fire code and electrical workmanship that it would haunt you in your dreams.

Via U.S. Inspect ~ Residential & Commercial Property Inspections (U.S. Inspect):

As a home inspector I have been a nosey guest in thousands of houses. Most have been in New England where for some years I supervised up to six home inspector colleagues. Even though some of those houses were specifically disclosed by the seller to be haunted, in only one house (yes, it was a gothic old house) did I personally experience what might have been a paranormal event. You will have to read this to the end to get to that if that’s what you are really interested in. For me, it was just an odd anomaly compared to what really haunts old houses.

I am not a psychic. I look for ghosts of a different kind in old American houses. To me, “ghosts “are simply the discernable details or clues that reveal the history of an old house.

Many or most of the very old houses here, say over 200 years old, have been re-muddled to such an extent over the years that it can be hard to figure out what happened when. That’s what I love to do: analyze old houses. To me, all houses are “haunted” with things or concepts that moved in over time.

This blog is not the venue for a long account of the various and sundry ghosts of history in old houses but here’s one important point: the 1840’s were seminal. That’s when the advent of cast iron appliances and radial saws drastically revolutionized the way houses were built or subsequently modified.

Original New England antique houses, typically of massive post-and-beam log construction, did not have kitchens. Instead, they featured a rather imposing fireplace in what was called a “keeping room”. That fireplace, often central to the house, was for both home heating and cooking. When the cast-iron wood or coal stove imposed itself, the logical way to take advantage of this technology was to build a new addition at the rear of the house. This was the advent of the now ubiquitous kitchen as well as the saltbox style of architecture so common to New England. Essentially, the saltbox style is a colonial with a bump-out kitchen in the rear. That’s where kitchens came from. The ghost of those kitchens past now haunts virtually all houses, even new ones.

===

I think the next most important haunting, one which definitely spooks our newer houses to this day, came in about the 1950’s. That was the advent of modern electronics starting with the television.

Antique houses typically featured rather small windows for at least a couple of reasons. First, smaller windows translated to less heat loss. Secondly, the architectural effect of a small window is to draw one to it from within thereby imparting a dynamic sense of more spatial dimension to the room.

The television has exactly the opposite effect of a small window in that it doesn’t look right unless you obey the imposing focal distance of the thing. Instead of drawing you to it, it pushes you back to a couch located well away from it. If you put a television into the formal parlor of an antique house, you get an immediate contradiction between the television and the original design of the room. You are both pulled and pushed around in the same room. The result is spatial tension.

The obvious solution was the theretofore-unknown “family room” addition all of which, even in old houses, seem to feature larger (even picture) windows that often contradict the original architecture of the older building to which it is attached.

No wonder that living rooms and formal parlors have lost ground to family rooms in remodeled old houses and new construction alike. A ghost from the 1950’s is stalking most of our homes. Further, with the advent of computers, more and more people want an office space in the house.

===

Okay, I mentioned the possible paranormal experience at the start of this thing. Here is my account of it.

The house was a gingerbread Victorian built in the 1880’s or so. The grounds were over-grown and the peeling green paint on it reminded me of a bumper-sticker slogan: Imagine Whirled Peas. The house was on the market as an estate sale. That translates as the owner had passed away recently. I was inspecting the place on behalf of absentee out-of-state clients. It was a warm October afternoon. The leaves had mostly fallen from the old trees in the yard and Halloween was near which led me to the thought that even the most stalwart of trick-or-treaters would have been loath to approach the place. Gothic enough for you?

The real estate broker was one with whom I had worked with many, many times in the past. She trusted me to be alone in the place and given that my clients did not plan on attending the inspection, she opened up the house and left me alone with the understanding that I would secure the place when I finished my inspection.

I came in through the rear kitchen entrance leaving the door wide open while I made a couple of trips back and forth to my vehicle as I brought my various equipment into the house. I set up my laptop computer and printer on the kitchen table and began my data-entry preparations for the inspection.

Although there was no noticeable breeze outside, the kitchen door suddenly and loudly slammed shut as I sat at the nearby kitchen table facing the door. That got my attention but when two separate dead bolts on the door clicked into closed positions about a second later, I was totally focused. I was left with the distinct impression that the door had been slammed and then locked with a palpable sense of anger.

Surprisingly or maybe predictably, I simply became very calm. That is probably my natural response to an emotional outburst by any second party. After a few moments, I got up and unlocked and then re-opened the door. I sat back down and waited awhile. The door remained open. I then unlocked two other exterior doors in other rooms. Nothing untoward happened while I was there during my subsequent two or three hours in the building. Nonetheless, my emotional impression of what happened in that kitchen remains to this day.

Attendant to my inspection, I placed a continuous radon monitor machine on a small table in the first floor hallway. It was a Radonics brand machine of proprietary design by U.S. Inspect, my parent company. These machines have fairly sophisticated anti-tamper features built into them. If you move or otherwise tamper with the machine, it will record it as well as the time of the tamper. The machine was left there for three days and nights during which time the machine registered tamper activity at about 2:00 AM each night it was there. The real estate broker told me nobody had been in the property during the entire time between my visits.

Could the radon machine tampers be explained away? Maybe. Perhaps the old steam boiler fired up at about that time every night causing the floor to vibrate. Old houses can be that way. I don’t know.

Thanks for Reading!

===

Marshall Hall

U.S. Inspect Home Inspections

U.S. Inspect | Inspection & Real Estate Industry Blog

Going Green One Step at A Time

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 13:39:56 -0500

Green building material are the wave of the furture.Putting an energy-efficient heating system into a drafty, poorly insulated house will not lower your energy bills. But youâ€^TMll notice a more dramatic increase, and even create even geater problems.If you want to make your entire house more energy efficient. How? Let a atlanta home inspector do a affordable energy efficient inspection.

Weatherstrip and caulk to seal air leaks. You may have to replace uncontrolled sources of air with designed sources to ensure proper ventilation.
Increase insulation levels where appropriate (such as in the attic or walls) to reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer.
Open drapes on south-facing windows on sunny winter days so that the sunâ€^TMs energy can help heat your home, and close them in summer to help keep your home cool.
Choose energy-efficient products when replacing windows and doors.

By making your house more energy-efficient, your heating and cooling systems will work less, and you may reduce the capacity needed when you replace your systems, which means more savings for you.

Via Pat Fenn (Marketing Specialist for Cindy Jones RE/MAX Allegiance):

Though many think that "going green" means building a new home from the ground that just isn't true.

It is easy to start the process towards green living. A few inexpensive steps by everyone can lead to some big changes overall. As more and more consumers become aware of the threats to the environment with rising energy prices and decreasing renewable resources they are looking at their homes as an easy place to start making small changes that can help lead to a bigger impact.

Installing low-flow shower heads

Replacing old toilets with water saving models

Using composite lumber products to build decks, fences and roofs

Buying natural installation made from recycled blue jeans

Adding a programmable thermostat to your AC/Furnace

Lowering the temperature on your water heater (and when it is time to replace go tankless)

Composting your kitchen waste (no meat)

Recycling everything you can (glass, plastic, cardboard, paper)

Making your own cleaning supplies

Buying local

Some of these ideas only require that you think differently about what you throw in your trash can or down your garbage disposal. Some are less than $100 to implement and others require you to think just a bit differently the next time you get ready of your next improvement project. None are rocket science and anyone can do them no matter where they live.

Chinese Drywall in Florida and Louisiana - Renovation Loans may help major problem

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 19:20:29 -0500

This is great consumer information

Via Michael Cantwell (Wells Fargo Home Mortgage):

Michael Cantwell

Chinese Drywall is a massive problem, however renovation loans may help. It is also may be a long term problem. It is being found in many locations across the country. Florida and Louisiana are two states that seem to be hit the hardest at this point. It seems that the hurricanes from 2005 along with the housing boom caused a huge shortage in available drywall. It may have been partly lack of supply and partly cost. According to some accounts the Chinese drywall was going for as little as $3.00 per sheet compared to $22.00 for US drywall. If it was due to price that builders used as a deciding factor it seems to have been a very bad choice indeed.

Not only new homes built during this period were built with Chinese drywall. Many home remodels, renovations and homes that needed repairs due to the hurricane damage may have also been performed with this possible dangerous material. With the housing boom along with the homes damaged by hurricanes a perfect storm was created. It is estimated over 100,000 homes may be involved. Class action lawsuits are now making their way through the courts. One includes the Lt Governor of Florida Jeff Kottkamp.

I first became aware of the problem while doing a weekly radio show in Fort Pierce Florida in the fall of 2008. Word of this problem came up on the show from local contractors who were made aware of HVAC systems that were failing multiple times. They also noticed that many of the systems had black corroded copper pipes that were way beyond normal wear and tear. It seemed entire subdivisions throughout Southwest and Southeast Florida. We were broadcasting the radio show from St Lucie county and it was pointed out that this area had many areas that may be effected by the drywall. The panel of the weekly radio show included an attorney and TOP REO agents in the market. Since they were experiencing a surge in foreclosures at the time, we pondered what the effects would be on homes already with dramatic price drops. It looked like now homeowners would suffer another hit since this problem might make the homes they were living in unsalable at any price.

Moving to today, the problem is growing and the confusion is growing as well. Many builders are moving people out and putting them up in other housing while the Chinese drywall is being ripped out and replaced. In addition to the drywall the pipes and HVAC systems are being ripped out and replaced as well. One potential solution to the problem is to use the FHA 203k renovation loan or the conventional renovation loan. I have been talking to local builders who need to sell properties and since the price is so much lower than market value due to the need to spend so much on renovation by any potential home buyer, providing funds for the renovation may be a way to increase the buyer pool away from just a cash buyer as the only option. Since the repairs will be extensive the FHA 203k Streamline may not be the answer since the amount of the renovation can only be $35,000 under the streamline 203k. The amount of work needed will be much greater than that amount in my opinion.

This topic will be with us for years and years to come. Already the contracts for sale in Florida contain verbiage on potential Chinese drywall. Unless every house built with this material was bulldozed the extent of this problem will last decades.

This Blog is my opinion and does not represent the views of my employer Wells Fargo Home Mortgage in any way.

For more information on how renovation loans may help call

My cell - 561-262-5366

My work - 561-616-2661

Or visit Reno-Mike.com
Michael Cantwell

My website - www.Reno-Mike.com

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Is this toxic Chinese drywall problem in Georgia

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 21:00:06 -0500

Atlanta Home Environmental Testing www.findmeaninspector.com

It was first introduced to the US in 2001. At its peak the toxic Chinese drywall was used in new or remodeled homes in the US between 2003 and 2007. (But it is still being imported to the US). Houses with toxic Chinese drywall may, or may not have a sulphur, or rotten egg smell. The actual symptoms
of toxic Chinese drywall are upper respiratory issues, nose bleeds, severe headaches, rashes, combined with air conditioning unit failures, copper, or silver corrosion, and/or corrosion of other metals. Light bulb failures or electric device failures may also be related to exposure to toxic Chinese drywall.

Is this toxic Chinese drywall problem just limited to Florida? No. The number of homes with toxic Chinese drywall has been grossly understated, there are at least 150,000 new or remodeled homes in Florida. Other states with significant quantities of toxic Chinese drywall include, Louisiana, Texas, Nevada, Virginia, Connecticut, Alabama, Georgia, Mississippi, California, and Colorado.

This is why Americas Watchdog is calling on President Obama, and the US Congress to enact emergency funding to help these homeowners rebuild their homes, so they are safe to live in. This is another reason why the US EPA is so desperately needed, in what is about to become the absolute worst environmental disaster for homeowners in US history.

It was first introduced to the US in 2001. At its peak the toxic Chinese drywall was used in new or remodeled homes in the US between 2003 and 2007. (But it is still being imported to the US). Houses with toxic Chinese drywall may, or may not have a sulphur, or rotten egg smell. The actual symptoms of toxic Chinese drywall are upper respiratory issues, nose bleeds, severe headaches, rashes, combined with air conditioning unit failures, copper, or silver corrosion, and/or corrosion of other metals. Light bulb failures or electric device failures may also be related to exposure to toxic Chinese drywall.

Note the biggest tragedy in all of this is that literally thousands of homes in Louisiana, Mississippi, Florida, and Texas that have been restored because of hurricane damage will have to be rebuilt again, because the contractors doing the storm damage repairs used toxic Chinese drywall. This is why Americas
Watchdog is calling on President Obama, and the US Congress to enact emergency funding to help these homeowners rebuild their homes, so they are safe to live in. This is another reason why the US EPA is so desperately needed, in what is about to become the absolute worst environmental disaster for homeowners in US history.

The Environmental Protection Agency released new information from recent tests conducted on the materials used in Chinese Drywall. The EPA reports that drywall produced in China contains sulfur, and two other organic compounds which are generally used in the production of acrylic paint. These materials are
not used in the production of drywall made in the United States. The EPA also found that Chinese produced drywall contains 10-times the amount of strontium (a metallic element) than that of American made drywall.

While these tests help to understand what has caused the catastrophic disasters in more than 100,000 US homes, the EPA has said that more tests are needed. In future tests, the EPA plans on including air samples in homes which contain the Chinese drywall in order to determine whether the drywall is the cause
of the corroded wiring and appliances, as well as the reported health problems, like many currently believe.

The first congressional hearings on Chinese drywall are set for tomorrow, Thursday May 21, 2009. The Senate Subcommittee on Consumer Protection, Product Safety and Insurance will investigate health and product safety issues associated with the drywall. Experts from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the EPA, the Consumer Product and Safety Commission and homeowners who have been affected by the drywall are expected to testify as witnesses at the hearing.

Indoor Air Quality

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 11:45:47 -0500

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta

INDOOR AIR QUALITY

A good portion of the heat is transferred to the incoming cold air, which means you heat less air and save more money

Inadequate number of air exchanges per hour can result in...

Excessive humidity
unpleasant odors
Increase in mold spore concentrations
Control of moisture around the home increases efficiency and comfort.Consistent moisture levels are more easily maintained inside the conditioned space when surrounding areas are dry.
Crawl spaces may be susceptible to bulk moisture in part because there are no waterproofing requirements for "uninhabitable" under-floor areas. Crawl vents allow airborne moisture air contact with framing, pipes and ducts.

Basements require deeper excavation than crawl spaces. Their floors are "closer" to seasonal high water tables and are subject to higher soil and moisture loads. Measures to reduce bulk moisture around the perimeter of the home include:
1) Maintain roof drainage: Keep gutters clean and properly pitched, pipe downspouts away from foundation walls.
2) Create a positive slope away from foundation walls. Install drains, swales, or retaining walls, add soil where backfill has settled. Fill voids under walks, stoops and patios.
If bulk moisture (visible signe of water) is controlled airborne moisture can be reduced by closing crawl or basement vents.

Moistue Control.Homes damaged by water leaks and moisture.

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 14:15:19 -0500

Atlanta Number #1 Real Estate Inspection Service. www.findmeaninspector.com

CONTROLLING MOISTURE INTRUSION-Moisture entry into crawlspaces can be controlled in a number of ways...

Evaporation:
A vapor barrier is a waterproof membrane such as plastic which is spread out across the soil to help prevent moisture in the soil from evaporating into the crawlspace air. This waterproof membrane is also called a "soil cover" or "ground cloth".

Groundwater
A sump pump is a float-activated water pump which is installed in a pit dug into the floor of the crawlspace. As groundwater enters the pit, the pump is activated automatically and water is pumped through pipes to the outside of the home. More than one pump may be installed.

Ventilating Crawlspaces-Passive Ventilation...Passive vents are simply ventilation holes installed in a crawlspace. Passive ventilation depends upon natural air movement to move moisture-laden air outof the crawlspace.Advantages to installing passive vents are...The system is simple and requires no electricity or maintenance.Air movement can carry off hot air during the summer.Disadvantage to ventilating crawlspaces. In moist climates, warm moist air entering the cool crawlspace will condense and the resulting moisture will be absorbed by wood framing and insulation. Under certain conditions materials may absorb enough moisture for fungi (mold) to become active.

Mechanical ventilation...-A humidistat is a device similar to a thermostat, except that it monitors humidity levels and activates a fan when moisture levels in the air exceed the humidistat setting. The fan pushes crawlspace air to the outside. This air must be replaced, and replacement air must come either from
the great outdoors, from inside the home or from out of the soil. Pulling replacement air from inside the home can create a whole new set of problems such as Negative pressure- Low pressure in the living space can suck toxic combustion gasses from water heater and furnace vents into the living space. Sounds nasty

Air temperature- Replacement air coming into the living space may need to be heated, cooled, humidified or de-humidified depending on the climate and time of year.

Crawlspace Recommendations-Insulate heating ducts- You can lose up to 35% of the heat from uninsulated heating ducts in an unheated crawlspace. Insulate water supply pipes- Insulating pipes helps keep them from freezing in especially cold weather and helps save money on your hot water heating bill.

Plastic soil cover vapor barrier- helps prevent moisture from evaporating out of the soil into crawlspace air.
Insulate crawlspace walls rather than the home floor- This will help prevent damage from pipes freezing. The idea is that conditions in the crawlspace will be easier to control if the crawlspace is treated as indoor space.

Moisture in the Living Space
Moisture enters the home living space from various sources...
1)Moisture (humidity) levels inside the home are raised by...
2)Water-using appliances such as clothes and dishwashers.
3)Plumbing fixtures such as showers.

Moisture in its liquid form comes as a result of leakage from plumbing fixtures and pipes and from the roof. Living space air lost through ventilation, leakage and combustion is replaced by moist crawlspace air.

What Damage can I find in Flooded Homes.

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 19:58:36 -0500

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta: Georgia Premier Inspector www.findmeaninspector.com

The recent heavy rains in Atlanta's low lying areas as well as near creaks,rivers where completely flooded. What a nightmare for those in low lying areas with no flood insurance. What can you except when getting back into your home? What are some of the problems you could face.

Wind and water can cause a house's structural components-the struts, studs, and foundation-to shift or warp. Tilting walls or a shifted roof also suggest dangerous structural damage that could signal an imminent collapse. Flood victims should check the their homes for cracks before venturing inside.

Inside the house, ceilings may sag under the weight of trapped water or soggy drywall. Wet floorboards bend and buckle, and the roof may leak or break altogether. Flooding in the basement can be especially dangerous; if the water is removed too quickly, pressure from the soaked earth outside can push inward and crack the foundation walls.

Brick and masonry houses will suffer less exterior damage than those made of wood. In all types of housing, though, flooding will most likely destroy the interior walls. Soaked wallboard becomes so weak that it must be replaced, as do most kinds of wall insulation. (The higher the water gets, the more interior walls must be replaced.) Studs will eventually dry out and return to their original shape, but any plywood in the walls is likely to swell and peel apart. Water can also dissolve the mortar in a chimney, which creates leaks and thus a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning once the heat comes back on.

Structural hazards account for only one category of water damage. Floods often deposit dirt and microorganisms throughout the house. Silt and sediment can create short circuits in the electrical system as gunk collects in walls and in the spaces behind each switch box and outlet. Appliances, furnaces, and lighting fixtures also fill with mud, making them dangerous to use.

Anything that gets soaked through with water may contain sewage contaminants or provide a substrate for mold. A long-lasting flood provides more time for the mold to grow and requires more cleanup after the fact. Carpets have to be thrown away, along with mattresses, bedding, and most upholstered furniture. Kitchen items, clothes, washing machines, and dryers must be disinfected with bleach, and all surviving interior surfaces should be cleaned to prevent mold growth. Standing water in a house can also serve as a breeding ground for insects and other animals.

Home flooding tips/Inspection Atlanta/Mold awareness.

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:03:59 -0500

One of the first things you should do when your home has been flooded is to open windows to allow air circulation.If electrical service has been restored. When a home has been flooded for a sort time. IN Atlanta where homes were under water for several days,Sheetrock,flooring,and framing studs. However, homes that haven't been flooded for a long time,the main concern will be removal of the drywall and primary concern will be remove the insulatiing material from the walls which needs done as soon as possible.Fiberglass insulation holds water for a verylong time.Wall might appear dry from a outward appearance have beenopen 6 months after,and the insulation has the same level of water it held when first flooded.This provides an ideal environment for decay-causing bacteria to form in the wall.It may take months or years,but the walls framing material will decay,and severe structural damage may occur.All flood-damaged plumbing, heating, cooling and electrical appliances and related systems should be replaced, rather than repaired.

Many houses will experience mold growth following flooding.excess moisture and standing water contribute to the growth of mold in homes and other buildings. When returning to a home that has been flooded, be aware that mold may be present and may be a health risk for your family.People who are sensitive to mold may experience stuffy nose, irritated eyes, wheezing, or skin irritation. People allergic to mold may have difficulty in breathing and shortness of breath. People with weakened immune systems and with chronic lung diseases, such as obstructive lung disease, may develop mold infections in their lungs.

Recognizing Mold You may recognize mold by:

• Sight (Are the walls and ceiling discolored, or do they show signs of mold growth or water damage?)· Smell (Do you smell a bad odor, such as a musty, earthy smell or a foul stench?)

Safely Preventing Mold Growth-Clean up and dry out the building quickly (within 24 to 48 hours). Open doors and windows. Use fans to dry out the building.

· When in doubt, take it out! Remove all porous items that have been wet for more than 48 hours and that cannot be thoroughly cleaned and dried. These items can remain a source of mold growth and should be removed from the home. Porous, noncleanable items include carpeting and carpet padding, upholstery, wallpaper, drywall, floor and ceiling tiles, insulation material, clothing, leather, paper, wood, and food. Removal and cleaning are important because even dead mold may cause allergic reactions in some people.

Plywood or OSB Which is Best.

Curtis Petty (Accurate Home inspection Atlanta) — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 17:51:45 -0500

Atlanta Inspection Service www.findmeaninspector.com

Oriented stand board (OSB) and plywood are wood structural panels made by compressing and gluing pieces of wood together. While OSB and plywood appear similar and are generally interchangeable, the different ways that each material is manufactured contribute to each having its own unique strengths and weaknesses

What are they, and how are they made?

OSB is manufactured from heat-cured adhesives and rectangularly shaped wood strands that are arranged in cross-oriented layers. Produced in large, continuous mats, OSB is a solid-panel product of consistent quality with few voids or gaps. The finished product is an engineered wood panel that shares many of the strength and performance characteristics of plywood.

Plywood is made from thin sheets of veneer (layers of wood that are peeled from a spinning log) that are cross-laminated and glued together with a hot press. Throughout the thickness of the panel, the grain of each layer is positioned perpendicular to the adjacent layer. The finished product is made from an odd number of layers so that a balance is maintained around its central access. Since it is made from whole layers of logs rather than small strands, plywood has a more consistent and less rough appearance than OSB.

A few facts about OSB and plywood:

While OSB developed fairly recently, it became more popular than plywood in North America by 2000. Today, nearly twice as much OSB as plywood is produced in North America.
Outside of North America, OSB is not commonly used in construction. In 2005, the combined production of OSB in Europe and Latin America was just 3.5 billion square feet - less than seven times as much as was produced in North America that year.
While both products are made from different materials, and some builders strongly prefer one or the other, OSB and plywood are both manufactured according to the same performance standards.
OSB can be made from narrower, faster growing trees than plywood.

In favor of OSB:

OSB can be manufactured into panels that are larger than plywood.
OSB is more uniform, so there are fewer soft spots, such as those that can occur in plywood.
OSB is less expensive than plywood. To build a typical 2,400-square foot home, OSB may cost $700 less than plywood.
OSB is considered by many to be a "green" building material because it can be made from smaller-diameter trees, such as poplars, that are often farmed. Plywood production, by contrast, requires larger-diameter trees from old-growth forests.
Plywood has a tendency to delaminate, especially in hot climates such as Florida.

In favor of plywood:

While plywood and OSB both off-gas formaldehyde, OSB off-gasses more of the carcinogenic gas. Plywood, OSB, and other engineered wood products that contain glue can be stored outdoors for several weeks before construction so that much of the dangerous gasses are vented safely into the outdoors.
OSB weighs more than plywood. One 23/32-inch 4'x 8' plywood piece weighs approximately 67 pounds, while a piece of OSB of the same dimensions weighs approximately 78 pounds. The increased weight of OSB means that it is harder to install and it will put more stress on the house.
Compared to plywood, OSB swells more when it comes into contact with water, especially at panel edges. Swell is generally greater in OSB than in plywood due to the release of compaction stress in OSB created during the pressing of wood chips into panels. Swollen plywood will return to its nominal thickness as the wood dries, while OSB will remain permanently swollen, to some degree. Swelling is a nuisance because it can uplift whatever materials lie above, such as tile or carpet.
Plywood floors are stiffer than OSB floors by a factor of approximately 10%. As a result, OSB floors are more likely to:
- squeak due to floor movement;
- cause hard floor surfaces to crack (such as tile); and
- result in soft, spongy floors.

Nails and screws are more likely to remain in place more firmly in plywood than in OSB.
OSB retains water longer than plywood does, which makes decay more likely in OSB than in plywood. Of course, tree species plays a large role in this determination. OSB made from aspen or poplar is relatively susceptible to decay. In one of the biggest consumer class-action lawsuits ever, Louisiana-Pacific (LP), a building materials manufacturer, was forced to pay $375 million to 75,000 homeowners who complained of decaying OSB in their homes.