It's that time of the year again, at least in the great North East Massachusetts area. It's getting real cold outside and heating units are starting to come on, on a daily basis. This is the perfect time to learn where your heating dollars are going to waste and have an infrared scan performed to locate those areas of your home where heat is escaping and cold air is stealing your hard earned heating dollars.
My infrared camera allows me to perform a comprehensive energy efficiency inspection within your home by locating and pin-pointing those areas where unconditioned cold air is infiltrating into your living areas. Most cold air infiltrations are located at wall penetrations (such as windows, doors, vents, etc), and at transition areas of fully insulated walls, ceilings and floors. My thermal scan will identify the smallest of insulation breaches and fissures within the concealed cavities of your interior walls and ceilings. I will literally show you where you are wasting your precious energy resources and your hard earned energy dollars. My IR camera enables me to point out exactly where your costly energy dollars are being lost. I will then assist you in determining how to properly insulate those breached areas with minimum damage to your surfaces, so you can get the most out of your heating system for many years to come.
Here are some infrared images I've captured recently.....
No access to the top side of this ceiling, but infrared detects missing insulation
An infrared inspection detects a radiator conducting heat to the exterior.
During a Re-hab, infrared imaging detects missing insulation above ceiling
An infrared home energy efficiency inspection can be used to verify problems caused by poor design, poor workmanship, or material failure. With the ridiculously high priced heating fuel today, my energy audit can pay for itself in as little as one year. This is the ideal inspection to conduct for numerous situations in a typical home…
1) Use my infrared services while I’m performing your Standard home inspection. This valuable option is not included in my standard home inspection fee.
2) You can hire me immediately after completion of your newly constructed home while the home or building is still under warranty with the building contractor. I can also scan your new home on construction stage inspections. (In many cases, those moisture stains on your basement walls are explained away by the builder as "during construction" moisture. It pays to confirm this before the builder’s warranty expires.)
3) If you own an older home that is costing you too much in energy dollars due to excessive air drafts, I can pinpoint those problem areas where cold air is infiltrating your living space. Then, it’s best if you contact a building contractor to upgrade those specific areas that I will be clearly identifying throughout your home. All efficiency information and pictures will be transferred onto a professional thermal report for your convenience.
4) An infrared energy inspection will easily locate any missing insulation behind your finished walls and ceilings. Then, you can contact an insulation contractor to upgrade the areas that I will be identifying throughout your home. These areas will also be clearly identified on a professional energy efficiency report. During this inspection, I can show you how you can insulate specific areas without removing walls or ceilings.
5) I am able to detect potential mold problems behind walls and ceilings. All moisture issues must be mitigated immediately. As I stated previously, infrared imaging does not detect the actual Molds behind your walls and ceilings, but it will detect the issues associated with Mold build-up.
6) Infrared Thermography provides you with a unique opportunity to assess the energy efficiency of your HVAC (heating, ventilating, and air conditioning) systems, including the tightness of the duct work that is located behind your walls and ceilings. In order to prevent deadly carbon monoxide poisoning, this inspection will also test for leaks throughout the vent pipes.
7) An infrared camera will locate those thermal panes that are at the beginning stages of leaking insulated gases. I am able to locate any broken seals in double/triple pane windows that do not visually show signs of condensation as of yet.
Windows look great visually, but infrared detects three thermal barrier leaks
As you can see, having an infrared energy efficiency inspection makes it much easier to positively pinpoint problems throughout your home, instead of simply making an educated guess without the camera. An IR inspection also allows me to communicate my findings with greater understanding to you (the homeowner) instead of just “speaking another language.” As one client had put it very clearly, “This inspection lets my eyes make sense of what my ears are hearing.” Now that makes perfect sense, Right?
The dark blue areas indicates that insulation is missing in this area
Thermal imaging pictures combined with digital photographs can greatly enhance your understanding of just what the problem is and how to go about having it repaired with minimum damage to the home. My final energy efficiency report will enhance your ability to deal directly with the contractors that may be performing the repair work for you. All you have to do is show your contractor the infrared energy efficiency report and they will fully understand your issues. After your contractor completes their upgrade, and before you make any final payment, you can then contact me to perform a final scan to verify that all work was performed correctly.
Looks great visually, until I detect insulation defects with thermal imaging
Of all Wood Boring insects, Termites are definitely the most damaging wood destroying insects out there. Did you know that the average single-family home has as many as three to four termite colonies beneath it (and each colony contains as many as 1 million winged residents). It's very important to prevent these colonies from attacking your home and causing extensive structural damage.
TERMITE DAMAGE TO STRUCTURAL MEMBERS
Termites must remain in moist areas in order to survive (which I will get into more detail next). Once they arrive into an open space they build mud tunnels in order to remain in a moist environment. The smallest of cracks in your foundation -- usually a basement or concrete slab -- is enough for those sneaky little termites to gain entry into your home. They will utilize the cracks to gain access to the wood framing because it's much easier for them to use naturally occuring cracks than to build mud tunnels to protect themselves from the dry environment. Once they're inside your home, anything made of wood -- from framing within the structure (especially sills), window and door frames to subfloors to furniture -- is fair game. You're not able to visibly see termites because they feed undetected. Termite workers attack the wood in your home from the inside out and infestations can go undiscovered until the wood is almost completely destroyed, which could take many years.
As if this scenario weren't bad enough, after they feast on your structure, termites leave behind a chemical trail that sends signals to other termites that food is near. Once started, this trail of destruction is impossible to stop without the services of a professional exterminator who is skilled at locating the hidden regions of your home where these termites take up residence. Wood-boring insects are difficult to control by homeowners once an infestation has begun. Treating insects is not a do-it-yourself project. If you have signs of Termite activity, do yourself a favor, hire a professional exterminator for full treatment.
WHAT ARE TERMITES ATTRACTED TO, BESIDES WOOD?
It's Moisture. It's extremely difficult to ward off moisture throughout your home, and especially underneath it, where termites gain initial entry to your property. It's impossible to dry out areas under your home. The good news is that in many cases, the problem starts in areas you can reach (outside and around your home), where wood products are exposed to the elements and thus trap moisture. Prevention is the best management method.
HERE'S HOW YOU CAN PROTECT YOUR HOME AGAINST TERMITES:
Above all, schedule an annual termite inspection and watch for mud tunnels over exposed exterior surfaces of your home (especially the foundation) and monitor for swarming termites in April and May.
Trim all shrubs, bushes, vines and other dense greenery away from the foundation and the siding of your home. Any vegetation touching your home will give Termites easy access to the structure. They simply make their trail behind the vines and vegetation to protect them from sunlight.
So many homeowners collect big piles of firewood outside their homes come wintertime. But some of us who don't use the entire pile let it sit throughout the rest of the year. This does you no good for many reasons. First, the firewood begins to rot as it's exposed to changes in the weather; second, it's ultimately useless because it becomes wet with moisture; and third (and most important), it's a magnet for termites seeking a home. You'll obviously need to store some firewood outdoors during the winter months -- particularly if you light fires often -- so your best bet is to keep the pile raised off the ground and away from the side of your house. Also, try to keep it protected from rain.
Consistent with the reasoning of the above-listed point, remove all lumber, tree stumps and any other variety of wood from the parameters of your home. If you're saving some wood for that home-improvement project you're planning to tackle on a rainy day, store it in your garage in a high and dry area. No wood should be touching the ground around your house, period. Including all exterior finishes (the siding) of your home. These areas should be 6 to 8 inches above grading.
This includes removal and replacement of any wood posts or stair stringers that penetrate concrete floors or rest on dirt on the exterior of the home or in the basement or crawl space. These penetrations will only invite Termites and provide avenues for their passage to more appetizing segments of the structure.
If you've got leaky pipes or any accumulation of water underneath your home, call a professional (or tackle the job yourself if you're capable). If you've been putting off the job, don't stall any longer. You may already have attracted termites to the water. By the same token, if you find standing water anywhere -- inside or outside your home -- remedy the problem and get rid of the moisture immediately. (Please read "Wet Basements" for more detailed information).
Clean all your gutters and downspouts regularly. Clogs and other obstructions will cause the gutters to overflow resulting in moist grading around your foundation which will attract termite populations. Inspect your gutters regularly for signs of disrepair. Inspect your home's crawl space you have one. It may be in your best interest to determine if the space is properly protected in order to stave off Termites. Moisture and humidity in crawl spaces can be reduced by installing a 4-6 mil polyethylene sheeting over the soil surface. This cover will act as a vapor barrier to reduce evaporation from the soil and condensation of moisture on floor joists and sub flooring. (Please read "Your Crawl Space" for more detailed information).
Since Termites can prey on the outside of your home, inspect your home regularly for any foundation cracks. If you find cracks inside or outside, seal them immediately. Ensure that your home receives continual maintenance to keep its exterior paint in good condition. Chipping, peeling paint can increase the likelihood of termite infestation due to moisture accumulation on unprotected wood.
As a homeowner, you can never prevent termite infestation with 100 percent certainty. However, you can take these various measures to decrease the probability of an infestation in your home. Considering both the cost of damage and inspection/extermination, you have absolutely nothing to lose by attempting to perform every one of these precautions. Yes, it is true that Termites may find a meal at your house eventually, but they are not the only pests ready to eat your house. Remember...there are two types of homes out there, homes that have been infested with Termites and homes that have not been infested with Termites...YET.
Nothing is more frustrating than dealing with a wet or flooded basement. Wet basements and crawl spaces are sources of high humidity, which can produce surface condensation, mildew and fungi, musty odors, and an unhealthful environment. Such moisture can cause deterioration of the foundation mortar, floor joists, beams, supports, sub flooring, insulation, and electrical-mechanical systems.
Prolonged water around the footer and foundation wall can soften the soil and weaken its bearing capacity, increasing the possibility of wall settlement and cracking. Serious seepage under the foundation footer may erode soil away and cause the wall to drop or crack. Excessive moisture can eventually penetrate the sub flooring and buckle the flooring or cause warping, making doors and closets difficult to open or close. Since crawl space or basement dampness always moves toward the drier upstairs areas, higher humidity will result in costlier heating and air conditioning bills. In the case of crawl spaces, if the under flooring insulation collects moisture, or sags from excessive wetness, the heating and air conditioning costs are driven even higher. Finally, wet basements and crawl spaces reduce the value of the house--at least by the amount that would be required to repair the damage and to eliminate the cause of the problem. Some homeowners are reluctant to discuss or admit their water problem; for fear that the publicity of an actual or even a perceived problem would reduce the value of their investment.
Homeowner insurance that fully covers basement flooding damage is an important means of financial protection to homeowners. Coverage for wet basements varies from state to state and company to company. But typically, the damage from water seeping in from the outside or backing up from the sewer is not covered by standard homeowner policies. In some cases, special coverage can be purchased to cover these risks, but it is usually limited in the types of personal property it covers and amounts of coverage that may be purchased.
It is up to each homeowner to know how to prevent water damage before it starts. This can be done through proper home maintenance and installation of systems intended to remove water before it gets into the basement.
CAUSE OF WET BASEMENTS AND CRAWLSPACES
Most wet basements or crawl spaces are caused by surface water which is not adequately drained away from the exterior foundation wall.
Sources of this water include the following:
Roof water, if no gutters and downspouts are presently installed.
Roof water, if the guttering leaks or overflows because of clogging from leaves and bird nests
Roof water if the downspouts (leaders) are clogged or do not have sufficient means at their outlets to drain water away from the foundation wall. Frequently, a downspout ends right at the corner of the house without an elbow and a 4-6 foot extension to carry roof water away from the foundation, leaving roof water to concentrate at that point and seep into the soil next to the foundation wall. A typical 2000 square foot roof can produce almost 1250 gallons of water during just 1 inch of rainfall. If the rainfall is steady and prolonged, the opportunity for this roof water to soak into the ground next to the foundation wall is high.
Excessive watering of flower beds and shrubbery around the foundation wall. Once the upper soil layer or mulch bed air spaces are filled with water, the excess water either runs off or seeps into the ground next to the wall. Prolonged and excessive watering can contribute a large amount of water to basements.
Rainwater runoff from the adjacent lawn, walks, or driveway areas if the landscaping forces water to drain toward the house instead of away. If surface runoff is directed toward the foundation wall, this water will pond and eventually soak into the soil, thus becoming a potential source of basement or crawl space water. Downspout splash pads are not very effective if they drain onto a backward-draining slope toward the foundation wall.
Subsurface or groundwater may be intercepted or dammed up by a basement or foundation wall. Houses which are built down slope on or at the base of hillsides are particularly vulnerable since there is greater opportunity for surface water to soak into the soil to become groundwater and because groundwater flows downhill by gravity. Foundation walls act like dams and can intercept and trap this subsurface water, causing pressure build-up on the outside and forcing water through joints and cracks in basement walls or seepage under the footer.
Nearby springs may have been filled in or covered up by the developer. Unless the springs were properly drained away from the lot or subdivision, such water will eventually seep into the surrounding fill, become a pool of groundwater, and eventually force itself laterally and upwardly into basements and crawl spaces.
Nearby creeks may overflow during storm runoff and either directly flood basement or crawl space areas, or contribute to the groundwater, which may become sufficiently high to cause seepage into the basement or crawl space area. Homeowners may not experience the effects of groundwater seepage or overflowing creeks for months or years after purchasing a house because of drought or infrequent out-of-bank flooding. However, when such conditions do occur, they may come suddenly without warning and cause serious problems after the warranty period has expired.
Improperly installed, clogged, collapsed, or leaky drains may not allow downspout water or foundation wall water to escape. Perimeter, footer, or foundation drains are installed around the exterior of a house below the basement floor to intercept and dispose of subsurface water to eliminate groundwater build-up and seepage under the house. If these drains are improperly installed or become clogged with silt or roots, they will not operate as intended. Sometimes an otherwise good perimeter drain gets covered up at its end(s) during the final backfilling or landscaping stages of construction and the intercepted water has no place to go but to build up behind the foundation wall and eventually to seep into the basement or crawl space.
Underground drains leading away from downspouts may not have sufficient slope to carry water away; may empty into the adjacent lawn and get covered with topsoil; may become crushed during landscaping or become pinched at their outlets; or may lead to an area which ponds and backs up water. The end result in all these cases is leakage or overflowing at the bottom of the downspout and water penetrating the foundation area.
Soil continuously draws water up from subsurface groundwater sources in a crawl space like a blotter by a mechanism known as capillary attraction. The finer the soil (e.g. clays), the more aggressive the capillary pumping action. As the water rises to the surface, it evaporates into the crawl space. Such ground moisture can be a significant source of dampness and humidity under a house, even without standing water. The presence of capillary water is often indicated by a whitish residue, left on the ground surface of the crawl spaces, resulting from evaporation of water containing minerals and salts. Lack of a moisture barrier, such as plastic sheet, will allow this capillary action and evaporation to contribute almost unlimited moisture sources to crawl space areas.
DRYING OUT A WET BASEMENT
If you have water running into your basement, the first thing to do is to see if it occurs immediately after a rain. If this is the case, it is probably due to surface water puddling against the outside of the basement walls. This is the most common source of basement water problems and one that you may be able to fix yourself.
First of all, you need to locate the source of entry. I suggest you look for ways exterior run-off water can enter into this area in the basement. Make sure downspout runoff isn't pooling or percolating into soil near the foundation during a storm, and that gutter and downspout seams aren't leaking. Gutters should be catching the rain and channeling it to the downspouts. Make sure there is no debris blocking the inlet of the downspout and preventing water from escaping down the spout. The downspouts should have extensions so that they discharge the water at least five feet away from the house.
Check the ground outside your foundation. Unfortunately, the earth that was used to back fill around most foundations settles over the years so it is extremely common for earth near the house to be lower than the rest of the yard. All grading should slope away from your house at least 1 inch vertically for every 1 foot of horizontal travel. If earth is already near the top of the foundation or if your lot slopes toward the house on one side, you may need to use another approach. In this case, establish a swale or shallow ditch on that side of the house to intercept the surface water and carry it around the house and down slope toward the street. Place the drainage path as far from the house as possible. If you have enough space, the ditch can easily be made less noticeable by blending it into the lawn.
If you have pavement immediately next to the house, be sure it slopes away. If a driveway or sidewalk is either extremely flat or slopes toward the house you have several choices. You can replace the pavement and correct the grade in the process. If it is concrete, you can have it mud jacked (raised), which usually costs about half as much as replacing the concrete. You can also add an additional layer of pavement next to the house to reverse the slope. If you do the latter, you will also need to caulk joints and cracks in the drive or sidewalk so that water which pools on the surface doesn't penetrate and end up in the basement.
Window wells are another common source of basement water problems. The window well itself should be much deeper than the window sill to provide a place to catch rain that might fall into it. The top rim should be 3 to 4" above grade with the ground sloping away so that water is not channeled into the window well. If the window well is on a side of the house where wind drives rain or ice against the house, installing a plastic bubble cover over the well will help keep rain, leaves and snow out.
Fixing any grading related problems such as those mentioned here will take care of the majority of basement water problems and should always be done first, even if you are considering other measures such as repairing a leaky crack in a Poured Concrete foundation. If that's the case, I personally recommend that you contact a Massachusetts based company called Crack-X. They will bond your crack surfaces together by injecting a specially formulated epoxy material that will stop water from leaking into your basement. This process closes the crack and restores the structural integrity of the wall by producing a "weld" that is equal to the original concrete in strength and performance. They will offer a ten year warranty. They can be contacted by phone at 1-877-CRACK-FX or browse their website at http://www.crackfx.com
SEVERE FLOODING IN BASEMENTS (Waterproofing)
In my humble opinion, "water proofing" systems, especially those on the exterior of a building should be used only as a last resort. Many water proofing systems involve water collection and discharge and are very costly. If you've tried all my recommendations and water is still gushing into your basement, and you can not resolve this, I recommend that you call in a professional. Otherwise, consider an interior gutter. This dam-and-channel system goes around the perimeter of the basement floor and collects water that flows down or through the walls or floor, routing it to a floor drain or sump pump. If you decide to go this route, I highly recommend contacting a Massachusetts based company called B-Dry at 1-888-400-2379 or browse their website HERE.
Your deck is a valuable asset to your home. Its surface is constantly exposed to our weather extremes causing the wood to crack, fade, split, splinter, cup and warp. The majority of decks in New England are made from pressure-treated pine. Although pressure-treated wood resists insects and decay, it's still vulnerable to moisture, freezing and the sun's rays. The same applies to other exterior woods including Cedar, Cypress and Mahogany. To keep it looking new and lasting much than the average deck, a regular maintenance treatment system is necessary. Approximately once a year, your deck should be checked for loose railings, balusters, walk boards and protruding nails. Then it should be thoroughly cleaned, and resealed.
Take the time to examine all the wood carefully, to see if any boards have rotted. Unfortunately, most wood rot occurs in places that are hard to see; Under the decking boards, at the ledger (the horizontal board that is attached to the house), on the underside of stair treads, and the exposed end grains of all decking. If possible, crawl underneath your deck to thoroughly perform your inspection. If your deck has wood posts or stair stringers that penetrate the dirt, probe the bearing ends for rot. Replace if necessary and this time use concrete footings to separate the wood from the dirt. Here in Massachusetts, the footings should be poured 3 1/2 to four feet deep (due to our frostline) and should terminate above ground approximately 3 to 6 inches high. It's always good to install cleats under the post to separate it from the concrete footing, which can become moist.
Cleaning will involve the removal of dirt, algae, moss, and other organic matter. In accordance with the directions that come with the cleaning solutions, it may be necessary to hose down the deck and surrounding area before applying any cleaning solutions. The water will also help dilute any chemicals that may inadvertently come into contact with surrounding plants and grass. Even with mild solutions, care must be taken to limit the amount of solution that gets on nearby plants and grass. Many cleaning solutions contain bleach, which is toxic to plants when in concentrated form. The solutions can be brushed onto the deck using a broom or can be lightly sprayed on with a power washer under low pressure. Power washers under excessive pressure can ruin the grain on your decking.
You can also give your wood surfaces (oiled, oil-stained, or painted) a good scrubbing using the following home-made formula...
1 cup of powdered laundry detergent
1/2 cup liquid chlorine bleach (if moss is present)
1 gallon of hot water
After waiting the directed length of time for the chemicals to do their work, the deck should be thoroughly rinsed. This is the step where more power can be particularly helpful, as water under low pressure can rinse out both dirt and chemicals more effectively.
However, too much pressure can gouge wood or cause the grain to become exaggerated. Within wood, the visible grain marks differences in density and hardness. Part of each grain is relatively soft wood. This softer wood can be gouged if too much pressure is used. At still higher pressures, even the harder parts of the grain can be damaged. Do not get too close to any wood when using a pressure sprayer.
SEALING
If you plan to refinish the wood after cleaning, allow the wood to completely dry before applying the finish. Once dry, resealing is accomplished by applying a clear or semi-clear liquid sealant to all exposed surfaces. Homeowners can do any of these tasks themselves, but often don't do them as well as a professional.
STAINING
If you plan on staining your deck, look for a Stain that is designed specifically for decks. Well-meaning do-it-yourselfers often end up applying stains designed for vertical surfaces, such as siding. Stains designed for use on vertical surfaces are not as abrasion resistant as those made for decks. Deck stains are made to resist scuffing where lots of traffic is expected. Always apply an oil or oil-stain finish either early or late in the day when the wood is not in full sun. The thinner that helps the oil penetrate evaporates too quickly on hot days. The oil can end up laying on the surface. Then help to force the oil or oil-stain into the surface by going back over the entire area with a paintbrush or roller (called back brushing)
Alternatives to Traditional Decking Materials
If you do not have time to maintain a traditional wood deck, there are now new decking material options. Several companies are now producing new composite decking materials that are resistant to rot, do not warp or splinter, maintains its shape, does not shrink or expand and doesn't require periodic staining. Most are made of recycled plastic or a blend of wood and plastic called Composite Decking. One brand name is that I'm familiar with is Trex Decking.
Composite decking weathers, like wood, but will age to an even tone without deteriorating. Composite decking does lack the strength of wood, however, and wont span the same distances as wood. With appropriate structural support, composite decking is well suited to first floor and above ground decks. Plastic structural beams are not readily available in all markets and tend to make the deck bouncy, so pressure-treated wood is most commonly used to support this type of decking. While widespread experience with this product is just now occurring, results look very promising. This material is more expensive initially than the common wood products used today, but they offer large savings over time due to their low-maintenance.
There's also a lifetime vinyl railing system that you can have installed with the composite decking, that'll last much longer than tradional wood. These plastic products will last a lifetime.
I've booked an excessive amount of ice dam calls (for help) this winter season and Infrared (Thermal) Imaging has assisted me in locating the exact cause of every last one of these ice dams.
Ice dams in Massachusetts are becoming a nuisance and are causing expensive damage to many soffit areas, gutters and the most outer portion of living area walls. First let me explain how this massive ice mound forms on the edge of your roof.
It snows and your roof will continue to accumulate this snow.
The temperature (outside) drops to below freezing.
The temperature inside your attic is above freezing, thus raising the temperature of your roofing material to above freezing.
Because of the temperature differential and the warmer roof, the snow on top of the roof starts to slowly melt and the melted snow (now water) starts to cascade down the roof (underneath all the accumulated snow) in an attempt to drain off the roof or into your gutters.
As soon as the water reaches the outer edge of the roof (where the roof will not be as warm as the attic cavity) it gets exposed to the freezing air. The cascading water now freezes into an ice mound along the edges of your roof and the gutters (if applicable).
As more and more melted snow (water) continues to cascade down your roof, it continues to freeze behind and on top of the previously frozen run off, forming a much larger ice dam. Once this ice dam takes shape, it will literally trap any water that is attempting to drain down and off the roof. Now, all the melting water is dammed and has nowhere to drain to, so it builds up. This accumulating water is simply backing up and is forced right under your roofing material and into your attic or soffit cavity (and then gravity takes over), and this water infiltration simply drips down onto your living area walls, causing the nuisance staining and damage that you are observing throughout your walls.
Preventing this ice from forming on the edge of your roof in the first place is absolutely preventable. Many homeowners are continuously researching articles on “HOW TO PREVENT ICE DAMS” and they learn that proper insulation and ventilation is necessary to prevent these ice dams. That’s fine, but after most homeowners obtain their education on “HOW TO PREVENT ICE DAMS” they may attempt to correct their ice dam situation, but are still baffled and are unable to figure out exactly where any improvement is needed. That’s why they call me.
Your solution to alleviate your ice dam issues is the use of Infrared technology. My infrared inspection is a brilliant method of providing you with an instant snapshot of any active heat loss through the most outer portion of your walls and ceilings of your home. Deficient insulation is a poor insulator, which makes it a great conductor of your conditioned air, and this is what enables me to easily detect the inefficient insulation in these areas. Thermal imaging will visually show thermal mapping of any improperly insulated ceiling and wall cavities that are causing the ice damming at the outer roof edges of your home.
Take a look at the images below and see how easy Infrared detects un-insulated cavities where ice dams are imminent...
Infrared clearly detects cold air (blue color) infiltrating the living area
Infrared detects an entire ceiling cavity missing insulation
Thermal imaging detects cold spots from improperly installed soffit vents
Infrared detects insulation issues above this bathroom ceiling.
Wood Boring Insects infest more than 700,000 homes each and every year. Your home is your biggest financial investment, and protecting it against Wood Boring Insects should be a high priority. If left unchecked, insects can systematically destroy your home and any valuable wood objects within it. Nonetheless, any discovery of insects in your home means making some difficult choices as to what steps to take in order to prevent any further damage.
A WBI inspection is usually a big deal for most of my clients. If you had a home inspection performed and it included a WBI inspection, please review your WBI report to determine if evidence of insect activity was found on your prospective property. If evidence of Wood Boring Insect activity was noted, I recommend an exterminator be contacted for treatment as soon as possible and to have a licensed Carpenter evaluate and estimate repairs for replacement of any damaged areas to include determining if hidden damage exists behind the finished walls.
Please click the images below to read more in depth information regarding that particular insect...
Being a full-time home inspector, I see people living with safety hazards every day of my life. I’m always concerned with these hazards and I’d like to assist in getting these corrected, especially for our most vulnerable people...our lovely Senior Citizens. Senior Citizens are injured in and around their homes continuously on a daily basis and I feel that the healthy surviving children should take time out of their busy schedules to help these fragile individuals in order to make sure they are safe from all harm. As you know, slips and falls are the most common source of injury for older individuals, but many other injuries result from hazards that are very easily overlooked and are very simple to fix. Most seniors are unable to fix these issues themselves, so it’s easier for us younger individuals to take the initiative to spot these hazards and then take some simple steps to correct them. Many injuries of our seniors can be prevented, and it takes a simple inspection of their living areas to make sure they live a safe life.
I’ve got 40 tips that should assist you all in keeping your older relatives safe from harm. Please use the following checklist to spot those possible safety issues which may be present in a seniors living area. Keep this checklist (in a file) as a reminder of safe practices that should be utilized, and use it periodically to re-check their living area.
Security and emergencies
1. Alarms - Check that smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms are located in each bedroom, and on each floor of multi-story homes, and in other areas where one is likely to fall asleep, such as a family room or den with a cozy recliner. Read the instructions that come with the alarms for advice on the best place to install them, but generally place them either on the ceiling or on a wall 6-12 inches below the ceiling. Also make sure to locate them away from air vents. Use the test button on the alarm to check them each month,, and replace any batteries, bulbs, or alarms that are not working properly. Many fire injuries and deaths (in the home) are caused by smoke and toxic gases rather than the fire itself. Alarms provide an early warning and can wake everyone in the event of a fire or dangerous gases. Vacuum the louvers of the alarms so that dust and dirt don’t interfere with the alarm doing its job. Replace any smoke detectors which cannot be repaired or which are older than five years. Some fire departments or local governments will provide assistance in acquiring or installing alarms. There are combination smoke/carbon monoxide alarms available, and there also are units that plug into electrical outlets.
2. Emergency exit plan - Check that they have an emergency exit plan and an alternate emergency exit plan in case of a fire. Fires can spread very rapidly, they might not have much time to get out (there might be a lot of confusion), so it is important that everyone knows what to do. Make sure your exit plan includes:
a) Shutting off the gas, water, and/or electricity whenever possible. Don’t put anyone at risk to these tasks though. Losing property is better than losing lives. b) Emergency phone numbers for family members, police, ambulance, and fire department, and a meeting place outside of their home so you can be sure that everyone is safe. c) Practice this fire evacuation plan from time to time to make sure everyone is familiar with it.
3. Telephone - Make sure that they have access to a telephone if they fall or experience some other emergency which prevents them from standing and reaching a wall phone. Have at least one telephone located where it would be accessible in the event of an accident which leaves them unable to stand. Many security companies now provide health and safety monitoring services which can include bracelets, necklaces, or belts that have wireless emergency contact buttons on them. Have a telephone close to their bed, so that they are able to reach it without getting out of bed.
4. Emergency number - Check that emergency numbers are posted on or near their telephone. Write the numbers in large print and tape them to their phone or place them where they can be seen easily. Emergency numbers should include those for the police, fire department, local poison control center, family doctor, and any family members or neighbors that should be notified in the event of an emergency.
Fireplaces, chimneys, cooking, and heating.
5. Fireplace and chimney - If applicable, have their chimney cleaned and checked at least annually, more often depending on how often they use the fireplace. Burning wood can cause an accumulation of creosote inside the chimney, which can ignite and result in a chimney fire. Chimneys that are clogged from leaves, wildlife nests, or other debris can result in a poor fire, poor drafting, and smoke and poisonous gases coming back into the house. Poor drafting is often indicated by soot accumulation on the walls surrounding the fireplace. If you see such conditions, or see or hear wildlife in their fireplace or chimney, do not use the fireplace until it has been checked and cleaned by a qualified chimney sweep.
6. Cooking clothing - Make sure they are wearing clothing with short or close-fitting sleeves when they are cooking. The CPSC estimates that 70% of all people who die from clothing fires are over 65 years of age. Long sleeves are more likely to catch fire than are short sleeves, and long sleeves are also more likely to catch on pot handles, overturning pots and pans and causing scalds. Roll back long, loose sleeves or fasten them with pins or elastic bands for their cooking convenience.
7. Electric blankets - Check that their electric blanket is not covered or tucked under the sides of the bed when in use. Use electric blankets according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Generally, tucking them in or placing additional coverings on top of them can cause excessive heat buildup which can start a fire or cause heat-related deaths in older people. Also, tell then not to allow pets to sleep on top of electric blankets. Don’t set electric blankets so high that they could burn someone who falls asleep while they are on.
8. Heating pads - Check that any heating pads are turned off before falling asleep. Even low settings can cause serious burns if left on.
9. Kitchen stove - Check that towels, curtains, and other things that might catch fire are located away from the stove. Placing or storing non-cooking equipment like potholders, dish towels, or plastic utensils on or near the range can result in fires or burns. Make sure they store flammable and combustible items in cabinets or drawers, not on countertops or on the range itself. Remove any towels hanging on oven handles and change the location of towel racks that cause towels to hang too close to a cook top burner. Shorten or remove curtains which could brush against heat sources.
10. Space heaters - Make sure they understand the installation and operating instructions for space heating equipment, such as a kerosene heater, a gas heater, or an LP gas heater. Always use the correct fuel as recommended by the manufacturer. Improper venting is the most frequent cause of carbon monoxide poisoning, and older consumers are at special risk. Vented heaters should have proper venting installed, and the venting system should be checked regularly. Un-vented heaters should be used with room doors open or windows slightly open to provide ventilation. Call the manufacturer or your local fire department if you have additional questions.
11. Stoves - Check that wood-burning equipment was installed properly. Wood-burning stoves should be installed by a qualified person according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions and local building codes. Local building code officials or fire marshals can provide requirements and recommendations for installation. Note that some insurance companies will not cover fire losses if wood stoves are not installed properly.
12. Stoves and space heaters - Check that small stoves and space heaters are placed where they cannot be knocked over and away from furnishings and flammable materials, such as curtains, rugs, and beds. Heaters can cause fires or serious burns if they cause them to trip or if they are knocked over. Many modern stoves and space heaters have audible alarms that warn of a unit that is knocked over and others will shut-off automatically.
Stairways
13. Horizontal run and vertical rise - Check that steps are even and of the same horizontal run and vertical rise. Even a small difference in rise or run can lead to falls. Mark any steps which are especially narrow or have risers that are higher or lower than the others. They should be especially careful of these steps when using the stairs.
14. Lighting - Check that stairs are lighted so that each step, particularly the step edges, can be clearly seen while going up and down stairs. Falls can occur if the edges of the steps are blurred or hard to see, or if depth perception is poor. Check that light switches are located at both the top and bottom of the stairs. Even if they are very familiar with the stairs, lighting is an important factor in preventing falls. They should be able to turn on the lights before they use the stairway from either end. If no other light is available, keep an operating flashlight in a convenient location at the top and bottom of the stairs. Install night lights if possible. If you plan to carpet their stairs, avoid deep pile carpeting or patterned or dark colored carpeting that can make it difficult to see the edges of the steps clearly. Paint edges of outdoor steps white to see them better at night.
15. Step coverings - Check that steps and step coverings allow secure footing and are not loose. Worn treads or worn or loose carpeting can lead to insecure footing, resulting in slips or falls. Warn them to avoid wearing only socks or smooth-soled shoes or slippers when using their stairs. Make certain the carpet is firmly attached to the steps all along the stairs. Refinish or replace worn treads, and replace worn carpeting. On outside steps, use a paint that has a rough texture, use abrasive strips, and use a different color or texture to help improve depth perception.
16. Storage - Check that nothing is stored in the stairway, even temporarily. They can trip over objects left on stairs, particularly in the event of an emergency or fire.
Electrical wiring, outlets, and lights
17. Fuses - If their home has fuses, check that they are the correct size for the circuit. Replacing a fuse with a larger size can create a fire hazard. If the fuse is rater higher than that intended for the circuit, excessive current will be allowed to flow and possibly overload the outlet and house wiring to the point that a fire can start. If you do not know the correct sizes, have an electrician identify and label the sizes to be used. From my experience as a home inspector, if all (or nearly all), fuses used are 30-amp fuses, there is a chance that some of the fuses are rated too high for the circuit. Have an Electrician evaluate and correct the panel if that is the case.
18. Lighting - Check all areas for good, even lighting that doesn’t create shadows, especially in the stairways; over the stove, sink, and work areas where power tools or sharp objects are used; passageways between rooms; and hallways. Shadows and dark areas can hide tripping hazards. Low lighting and glare can contribute to burns or cuts. Improve lighting by: ¨ Opening curtains and blinds, unless it causes too much glare. ¨ Using the maximum wattage bulb allowed by the fixture. If you do not know the correct wattage for the fixture, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts. Make sure that the bulbs you use are the right type for the light fixture; don’t permanently remove the light cover or alter the light socket in order to fit a new fluorescent bulb in the lighting fixture. ¨ Reducing glare by using frosted bulbs, indirect lighting, shades or globes on light fixtures, or partially closing the blinds or curtains. ¨ Installing additional light fixtures, e.g. under cabinet or over-the-countertop lighting. ¨ Installing night lights wherever possible for safety at night. Inexpensive lights that plug into outlets are available, and you can replace standard wall switches with switches that glow or light in darkness. ¨ Installing light switches near bedroom entrances to prevent walking through a dark area. ¨ Installing lamps or light switches within reach of beds to enable people getting up at night to see where they are going. ¨ Rearranging furniture closer to switches and moving lamps closer to beds. ¨ Keeping working flashlights and backup batteries near beds, in kitchens and bathrooms, in basements and garages, and in storage areas. 19. GFCI outlets - Have ground fault circuit interrupter outlets (GFCIs) installed in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and exterior locations. A GFCI is a shock-protection device similar to that in the picture at right which will detect electrical faults and shut off electricity before serious injury or death occurs.
20. Light bulbs - Check that light bulbs are the right size and type for the lamp or fixture. The wrong type of bulb or an oversized bulb can cause a fire because of overheating, and ceiling fixtures, recessed lights, and hooded lamps will trap heat. If you do not know the correct wattage, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts.
21. Outlet and switch cover plates - Check that all outlets and light switches have cover plates so that no wiring is exposed. Exposed wiring presents a shock hazard.
22. Overheating - Check outlets, light switches, and extension cords to see if they are unusually warm or hot to the touch, which can indicate that an unsafe wiring condition exists. Unplug cords from outlets and do not use the switches or extension cords if they are overheated. Have an electrician check the wiring.
23. Power tools - Check that power tools are equipped with a 3-prong plug or marked to show that they are double insulated. These safety features reduce the risk of an electric shock. Use a properly connected 3-prong adapter for connecting a 3-prong plug to a 2-hole receptacle. Replace old tools that do not have a 3-prong plug or are not double insulated.
24. Small appliances - Check that small electrical appliances such as hair dryers, shavers, curling irons, etc., are unplugged when not in use. Even an appliance that is not turned on can be potentially hazardous if it is left plugged in. If it falls into water in a sink or bathtub while plugged in, it could cause a lethal shock. Never reach into water to retrieve an appliance that has fallen in without being sure the appliance is unplugged. Install a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) in your bathroom outlet to protect your seniors from electric shock.
25. FillSpace heaters - Check that portable space heaters which have a 3-prong plug are being used in a 3-hole electrical outlet. The grounding feature provided by a 3-hole outlet is a safety feature designed to lessen the risk of shock. Never defeat the grounding feature by cutting off prongs or bending them out of the way. If they do not have a 3-hole outlet, use an adapter to connect the heater’s 3-prong plug but make sure the adapter has a ground wire or tab and attach it to the outlet properly.
26. Temporary wiring - Check that they are using extension cords properly: ¨ Check that it carries its proper electrical load as indicated by the labels on the cord and the appliance. Overloaded extension cords may cause fires. Standard 18 gauge extension cords can carry 1250 watts. If the rating on the cord is exceeded because of the power requirements of one or more appliances being used on the cord, change the cord to a higher rated one or unplug some appliances. ¨ Do not use cords as permanent wiring, and certainly don’t create a mess. Such conditions can cause damage to the cords and overheating, possibly resulting in a fire or personal injury. Have an electrician install new outlets for convenience and safety.
¨ Check that lamp, extension, and telephone cords are placed out of the flow of traffic. Cords stretched across walkways may cause someone to trip. Arrange furniture so that outlets are available for lamps and appliances without the use of extension cords. Place extension cords on the floor against a wall where people cannot trip over it. Move the phone so that telephone cords will not lie where people walk. ¨ Check that lamp, extension, and telephone cords are placed away from sinks. Electrical appliances and power cords can cause shock or electrocution if they come in contact with water ¨ Check that lamp, extension, and telephone cords are placed away from heat-producing appliances, such as the kitchen range and baseboard heaters. Cords can be damaged by excess heat. ¨ Check that furniture, rugs, and carpeting do not cover cords. Furniture resting on cords can damage them, creating fire and shock hazards. Electric cords which run under carpeting may cause a fire. ¨ Check that cords are not attached to walls, ceilings, or floors, with nails or staples which can damage cords, creating fire and shock hazards. Use tape, cord clips, wiring guides, or raceways to attach cords to walls or floors. ¨ Check that electrical cords in good condition and replace any damaged or worn cords. Damaged cords may cause fire and shock hazards Bathtubs and showers 27. Grab bars - Check that bathtubs and showers have at least one (preferably two) grab bars. Grab bars can help them get into and out of their tub or shower, and can help prevent falls. Check existing bars for strength and stability, and repair if necessary. Attach grab bars, through the tile, to structural supports in the wall, or install bars specifically designed to attach to the sides of the bathtub. If you are not sure how it is done, get someone who is qualified to assist you.
28. Non-skid surfaces - Check that bathtubs and showers are equipped with non-skid mats, textured strips or appliqués, or surfaces that are not slippery. Wet, soapy tile or porcelain surfaces are especially slippery and may contribute to falls. Also place non-skid mats on the bathroom floor, especially any steps. Miscellaneous
29. Appliances - Check that the grounding feature on appliance cords with 3-prong plugs has not been defeated by removing the grounding pin or by improperly using an adapter. Improperly grounded appliances can lead to electric shock. Check with your service person or an electrician if you are in doubt.
30. Containers—Check that containers containing flammable, poisonous, and cleaning liquids are tightly capped. If not tightly closed, vapors may escape that might be toxic when inhaled.
31. Container storage - Check that gasoline, paints, solvents, or other products that give off vapors or fumes are stored away from ignition sources such as heaters, furnaces, water heaters, ranges, and other gas appliances. Such liquids should be stored in properly labeled, non-glass safety containers, and should not be stored in living areas.
32. Exits and passageways - Check that all exits and passageways are clear of obstructions. Furniture, boxes, or other items could be an obstruction or tripping hazard, especially in the event of an emergency or fire. Rearrange furniture to open passageways and walkways, and remove boxes and clutter.
33. Fire sources - Check that ash trays, smoking materials, candles, and any other fire sources are located away from beds and bedding. Burns are a leading cause of accidental death among seniors. Burning candles and smoking in bed are major causes of fire-related deaths.
34. Kitchen ventilation - Check that kitchen ventilation systems or range exhausts are functioning properly and advise seniors to use them while they are cooking. Indoor air pollutants may accumulate to unhealthful levels in a kitchen where gas or kerosene-fire appliances are in use. Use ventilation systems or open windows to clear air of vapors and smoke.
35. Medicines - Check that medicines are stored in their original containers and that they are clearly marked with the contents, instructions, expiration date, and patient’s name, and dispose of outdated medicines properly. Unmarked medications can be easily mixed up, and taking the wrong medicine or missing a dosage can be dangerous. In homes where grandchildren or other youngsters are frequent visitors, medicines should be purchased in containers with child-resistant caps, and the caps properly closed after each use. Store medicines beyond the reach of children. Request non-child-resistant containers from your pharmacist only when you cannot use child-resistant containers.
36. Power tools - Check that power tool guards are going to be in place during use. Power tools with the guards removed pose a serious risk of injury from sharp edges or moving parts.
37. Rugs, runners, and floor mats - Check that small rugs, carpet runners, and floor mats are slip-resistant. The CPSC estimates that in 1982, over 2,500 people 65 and over were treated in hospital emergency rooms for injuries that resulted from tripping over rugs and runners. Falls are also the most common cause of fatal injury for older people. Purchase rugs with slip-resistant backing or apply double-sided adhesive carpet tape or rubber matting to the backs of rugs, runners, and mats. Over time, the adhesive on tape can wear away, and rugs with slip-resistant backing also become less effective as they are washed. Check periodically to see if the backing needs to be replaced.
38. Step ladder - Check that they have a step stool or step ladder that is stable in and good shape. Standing on chairs, boxes, or other makeshift items to reach high shelves can result in falls. If they don’t have a step stool, please purchase one. Choose one with a handrail that they can hold onto while standing on the top step. Advise them that before climbing on any step stool, that they make sure it is fully opened and stable. Tighten any loose screws or braces and discard step stools with broken parts.
39. Water temperature - Check that the water temperature is 120°F or lower. Water temperature above 120 degrees can cause scalds, especially in seniors. Lower the setting on their hot water heater to “Low” or 120°F. If you are unfamiliar with the controls of their water heater, ask a qualified person or Plumber to adjust it for you. If their hot water system is controlled by the landlord, ask the landlord to lower the setting. If the water heater does not have a temperature setting, you can use a thermometer to check the temperature of the water at the tap. Always check water temperature by hand before entering bath or shower. Taking baths, rather than showers, reduces the risk of a scald from suddenly changing water temperatures.
40. Nightwear - Older consumers should be wearing nightwear that is flame resistant, and choose garments made of tightly woven fabrics, such as 100% polyester, nylon, or wool.
Please remember to periodically re-check their home for safety issues so that your your loved ones can live a longer and safe life.
Your home is your palace and it is one of the single biggest investments you'll ever make, so be sure that you do all you can to care for it properly. When and if your thinking of Selling your home in this Buyers market, a well-maintainedhome usually sells more readily and will usually bring a higher price. A well maintained home is also more comfortable to live in and any regular care that you do perform, minimizes any unexpected repair work and expenses. Regularly scheduled small repairs and upgrades to your home can and will keep maintenance costs from becoming exorbitant.
It's cold outside (in many areas) right now, so I have comprised a list of home maintenance items that an be completed inside your home. Let's get started...
Clean or replace your furnace air filters every other month during this heating season. Periodically check the ventilation area outside (intake and exhaust) to make sure they are not blocked by snow or debris. Then go back inside and vacuum all the heating supply registers, return grills, baseboards or radiators.
After consulting your hot water tank owner's manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck in the closed position. (Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns and it may also cause the valve to develop a slow leak due to sediment build-up not allowing the valve to close fully. This will require a plumber to replace the TPR valve). In some areas, sludge may accumulate in the bottom of the water heater. Draining approximately 1 gallon of water from the clean-out spigot at the bottom of your tank will indicate the presence of sludge and the necessity for regular draining to control sediment and maintain it's efficiency. Be sure to shut off the power or fuel supply before draining any water from the water heater.
Clean the humidifier internal parts (if equipped), two or three times during the winter season. These parts become clogged very easily.
Vacuum bathroom fan grille or any other registers you may have in your home. I recommend removing the register grills and vacuuming inside the duct work also, (as far in as possible). Vacuum all fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning. Dust all ceiling fan blades.
Vacuum radiator grilles at the rear of refrigerators and freezers. Empty and clean the drip tray underneath the refrigerator.
Check inside bathroom vanities and kitchen sink cabinets for signs of moisture. Look for leaks at shut-off valves at sinks, toilets, laundry equipment, and main water shut-off valves. Carefully inspect all pipes for condensation or slow drips. Repair the plumbing system if necessary.
Remove mineral deposits from faucet aerators and shower heads by removing them and soaking the parts in white vinegar and scrubbing them with an old toothbrush.
Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or ice build-up. If either of these do occur, this is a sign of inadequate insulation and/or improper ventilation. Have these corrected accordingly.
Check all electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety: if worn, or if the plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately. Check the operation of all ground-fault circuit interrupter outlets by pushing the "Test" button. The "reset" button should automatically pop out, indicating the receptacle is operating properly. Now press in the "Reset" button. Check the AFCI circuit breakers inside the main electrical panel (if your home was built after 2002). Press the white "Test" button to make sure it trips. Then reset these after testing. Have a licensed Electrician replace these if they are not tripping.
All homeowners pay a lot of hard earned energy dollars to heat their homes today and I know everyone would love to cut the monthly costs of heating their homes. With the continuous rise in heating fuel costs, the only ideal way to save money is to locate and seal those breached areas of your home that are stealing your energy dollars and causing your expensive heat to escape your living areas. If you are able to retain conditioned air inside your home for a longer period of time, you will be spending much less money on the fuel that is powering your heating system. In a typical home, space conditioning and comfort bills can account for up to one-half of your home's energy bills, with the remaining portion due primarily to heating your domestic water, interior lighting, and your appliances. Knowing that space conditioning accounts for half your energy bills, I can show you how you can lower this expense now.
What you need is an infrared inspection. An infrared inspection is a brilliant method of providing you with an instant snapshot of active energy losses through the interior walls and ceilings of your home. Thermal imaging will visually show thermal mapping of any damaged, settled or improperly insulated cavities throughout your home. Appreciable temperature differences, (due to variations in thermal energy heat transfer) allow me to determine the adequacy and proper installation of the concealed insulation that is installed throughout your structure's exterior cavities. I’m able to detect obvious insulation issues while scanning your exterior ceiling and wall surfaces. Deficient insulation is a poor insulator, which makes it a great conductor of your conditioned air, and this is what enables me to easily detect the thermal anomalies in these areas. Any major differentials in surface temperature are going to be the obvious areas that are going to require you to upgrade insulation, in order for you to start saving energy bucks.
Keep in mind that there are always going to be minor air breaches in typical exterior walls and ceilings, due to wood structural members that will conduct exterior air and simply can not be insulated. But, I would like to walk you through your home and literally show you the major areas of concern where excessive air is infiltrating your conditioned living area, causing your energy bills to become sky high.
After pointing out the areas of your home that can be improved, I will be providing you with a professional report which will be highlighting those areas that are in need of an insulation upgrade. You can then use my infrared report as a guide to locate those deficient areas when upgrading or simply hire an insulation contractor who can then utilize my report as a guide to upgrading the insulation defects and fissures.
A visual inspection of this ceiling indicates that nothing is wrong, but my thermal scan reveals missing insulation throughout the outer rim board area.
This childrens room looks fine visually, but my infrared camera reveals missing insulation throughout the top portion of these stud cavities.
Visually, this wall appears to be in great shape, but my infrared scan detects missing insulation behind this attic knee space. This cold air infiltration is as bad as leaving a window ajar.
I was hired to inspect a recent installation of blown-in insulation. Visually, it looks fantastic, but infrared reveals shoddy workmanship.
The roof over your head is one of the most important components of your home and I'm going to tell you how to keep it in great condition. You want to protect your lifetime investment without spending a lot of money and waiting until thousands of dollars worth of damage occur to the interior because of a roof leak. Simply place a couple hundred dollars into your annual home maintenance budget for a roofing contractor to inspect your roof on a yearly basis. Every October when you set your clocks back (or any other easily remembered day in the Fall, but definitely before the winter season), pay a qualified roofing contractor to come out and examine your roof and give it the A-OK (some roofing contractors may also provide warranties against leaks for a year or two). Now you should make it through the winter season with no problems. And a couple of hundred dollars or so in preventive maintenance for the roof is much better than waiting until it leaks and going through the anguish of a major roof leak, damage to the structure interior and furniture, and possible damage to your books, pictures, photographs, and other priceless memento's of you and your family.
Your roof covering will last a long time in our New England climate if you'll do three things: make sure your attic has (1) adequate ventilation (e.g., any combination of gable, soffit, ridge, drip edge, turbine, roof vents; and attic fans), (2) adequate insulation, and (3) give a roofing contractor a couple of hundred dollars or so each year, or toward the end of whatever warranty period the roofing contractor provides you, to inspect your roof and flashings.
SOME SIMPLE STEPS TO FOLLOW IN ORDER TO KEEP YOUR ROOF IN GREAT SHAPE...
Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes, chimneys and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
Keep moss, algae and black stains off your roof surface. If your roof is starting to collect spots of moss or black algae and fungus lines, simply install zinc strips along the hips and ridges of your roof. The natural action of rain water time-releases zinc carbonate (a proven fungi-stat) which then washes down the roof shingles, preventing any destructive roof moss, algae and fungus growth.
Check all flashing's and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes or openings in them.
Dab some roof cement under any loose or lifting shingle tabs. One dab on either side should do.
Replace any damaged shingles.
Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them and checking flow and observe all seams for leakage.
Trim back any overhanging tree branches from the roof area.
Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it's damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Very interesting information for all Massachusetts Home Buyers and Sellers. I continuously post home Maintenance suggestions and Infrared (Thermal) Imaging technology information.
Real Estate Agents can also learn from my periodic postings.
Disclaimer: ActiveRain Corp. does not necessarily endorse the real estate agents, loan officers and brokers listed on this site. These real estate profiles, blogs and blog entries are provided here as a courtesy to our visitors to help them make an informed decision when buying or selling a house. ActiveRain Corp. takes no responsibility for the content in these profiles, that are written by the members of this community.
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