Why Choose Me To Inspect Your Massachusetts or New Hampshire Home?

Benefits of hiring Massachusetts Home Inspections

BOARD CERTIFIED MASTER INSPECTOR - The Master Inspector Certification Board, Inc. supports the inspection industry's advanced education providers and encourages experienced home inspectors to maintain excellence. Certified Master Inspectors, are the very best of the best.

iNACHI CERTIFIED #03061206 - International Association of Certified Home Inspectors is the world's largest most elite home inspection association in the world. Annual Inspector testing and continued education is a prerequisite. Visit their massive website at www.NACHI.org

MASSACHUSETTS HI LICENSE #566 - I currently meet all State approved Home Inspector educational requirements and qualifications. I'm fully approved by the Massachusetts Board of Home Inspectors. VERIFY LICENSE

NEW HAMPSHIRE HI LICENSE #49 - I currently meet all State approved Home Inspector educational requirements and qualifications. I'm fully approved by the New Hampshire Board of Licensure and Certification. VERIFY LICENSE

BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU MEMBER- Massachusetts Home Inspections has an A+ Rating - ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

FLIR (ITC) CERTIFIED BUILDING SCIENCE THERMOGRAPHER - I have participated in a thorough applications training curriculum leading to certification in Infrared Building Science through the Infrared Training Center (ITC). I am a professional Thermographer who has a solid understanding of heat transfer laws, thermal dynamics and the various properties of Thermal imaging. VERIFY CERTIFICATION

PAST EXPERIENCE - I have performed over 3,000 Home Inspections throughout the State of Massachusetts and New Hampshire with over 3,000 very satisfied clients. Prior to inspecting homes, I spent over 20 years traveling around the world managing and supervising government construction projects. This included numerous overseas assignments where we refurbished many U.S. government buildings. I've traveled throughout the world (to various Countries) supervising foreign laborers in rebuilding the interior office spaces of our United States Embassies (SEE MY TRAVELS TO THIS DATE). I have gained vast construction knowledge and expertise that my home inspection clients will always appreciate and trust.

HOURS OF OPERATION - I am available Seven days a week - Dawn till Dusk. For those who work weekdays, I will have open slots for early evening inspections also. If there's sufficient daylight for me to complete the exterior portion of the home, I'll gladly fit you into my early evening schedule.

ALWAYS ON TIME - I'll always arrive at your prospective home a 1/2 hour early. I'll complete your exterior inspection and reporting and I'll be waiting for you when you arrive. I'll then walk you through every nook and cranny of the entire property. I ask that you please allow me to be alone for these thirty minutes (and not arrive early), as this time is crucial for me to prepare your home inspection report.

ACTUAL TOUR GUIDE - You will literally walk through your prospective home right alongside me. You and I will be there to learn as much as possible about the condition of the property and to jointly engage in the discovery process. This will be the ultimate time for you to obtain the answers to the questions that you may have, regarding the house. Once we finalize the Home Inspection, you will ultimately have a better understanding of the property that you have chosen.

HIGH TECH EQUIPMENT - I simply refuse to guess on any of my findings. I continue to utilize an advanced high tech Infrared (thermal imaging) camera as an optional service, and I carry a tool bag that is chock full of instruments, such as natural gas and carbon monoxide leak detectors, a digital inspection snake camera that allows me to inspect suspect heat exchangers (and other tight cavities that can not be readily observed by eye), temperature sensors, numerous digital meters which include several moisture meters and an array of lasers, and other tools that allow me to confirm any of my findings throughout your prospective home.

SAME DAY REPORT - You will receive your highly detailed comprehensive inspection report immediately following your home inspection (Same day Report). My reports are highly detailed, legible and very easy to read and understand. Your 17-page inspection report will be categorized into components in order for you to locate specific details right away. My report is much better than those narration reports which require you to thumb through every page in order to locate specific issues that were noted.

MAINTENANCE RECOMMENDATIONS - During your inspection, I will include many energy saving maintenance recommendations that will help to keep your home lasting forever and your mechanical's in top notch condition.

FREE HOMEOWNERS GUIDE - You will receive a comprehensive 64 page manual (written by myself) that contains important facts, tips and safety concerns regarding your new home. I've integrated many useful maintenance tips to will assist you in keeping your home and mechanicals in great shape for many years to come. At the rear pages of this manual you'll find an average "Life Expectancy list" of just about every component in your home.

CUSTOMER SERVICE - If you have questions before or even after your home inspection, my phone lines are open from 8:00 AM to 9:00 PM. Telephone consultations (with me) will be available for as long as you own your home. I'll always strive to give you the Personal Service you deserve.

E & O Insurance - I always carry sufficient insurance required by the state of Massachusetts to cover serious Errors and Omissions and Liabilities and I'm fully Bonded.

Massachusetts Home Inspections

Though there are many different ways to mitigate a house, Active Soil Depressurization (ASD) (as opposed to Passive systems) is the most common and effective solution for lowering elevated Radon levels in your home here in Massachusetts. These are the type of systems that I see most of the time while inspecting homes. Active systems include PVC vent piping and a fan system which is highly recommended by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

The Active Soil Depressurization concept is really quite simple. In the lowest level of the home, a four to six inch hole is cored (drilled) into the sub-slab. Soil and/or stone is then removed through the cored hole to create a hollow pit.

 Then...a series of PVC pipes are inserted into the drilled hole and are completely sealed as they run vertically alongside the foundation (or interior walls) in order to properly exit the building.      

The piping will either exit the house at the top of the foundation to the rear exterior of the home (See below...image at left) or it will travel through studded walls or closets and enter an unconditioned space, being the attic (See below...image at right). A fan is then installed in series with this piping and terminates above your roof line.

When this fan is activated it will create a vacuum beneath the slab and draw radon-laden soil gas through the piping and this air gets exhausted to the exterior of the house in a safe manner (according to the EPA Requirements). All radon entry points will then be permanently sealed, and post testing will be performed to ensure that the newly installed mitigation system is drawing only the gases beneath the concrete slab.

This type of radon mitigation system will contain a monitoring vial called a manometer (See image below). It is your responsibility to check the manometer on a periodic basis. The manometer is a pressure gauge mounted on the pipe to determine if the system is operating properly and the fan is performing as intended. The manometer should never read zero (when both liquid lines are equal to each other), this indicates that the fan is not pulling air through the pipe. You should always see these liquid lines offset which indicates that radon fan is properly drawing air from under the slab.

MANOMETER

The cost of an Active Soil Depressurization system is approximately $1,200 to $2,000. The price will vary according to the home's design, size, foundation, construction materials and the local climate. Part of the mitigation cost can depend upon what is required to conceal the system and maintain the aesthetic value of the home. For example, a retrofit system routed outside the house can reduce radon quite well, but it may not be as visually pleasing. The ASD system will lower radon levels 99.9% of the time.

Radon Mitigation in new Construction (SSD)

Are you building a new home? A radon sump should be installed while your home is under construction. This passive mitigation system (Sub-Slab Depressurization) will prepare you to activate (install a fan and electrical) inexpensively and effectively at a later date if you find that radon levels are excessive after the house is finally built. Until then, space will be made for the fan (in the attic or unconditioned space), and electrical provisions will be left (optional), and the pipe will exhaust through the roof (above the roof line).

The installation is quite easy for your builder to install before the concrete floor is poured. A sump is buried in hardcore below the floor level of the building. Before the concrete floor is poured, crushed stone is spread out over the ground surface. A high density polyethylene covering (with all seams sealed with construction tape and outside edges sealed to foundation wall) is applied over the stone to trap the radon gases and then divert the gases to the radon sump area by the negative pressure created by the fan.

A perforated pipe or drain mat is placed beneath the plastic. This pipe is typically connected to solid PVC piping and a fan, which creates a vacuum beneath the plastic when the fan is activated. Negative pressure is created in the sump and its surroundings. As the radon percolates up through the ground, it is attracted towards the negative pressure of the sump, where first it is collected then extracted, via a vent pipe through the fan, and finally discharged above roof level to be dispersed harmlessly into the surrounding atmosphere.

There are also other mitigation systems on the market today.

Sub-Membrane Depressurization (SMD)

SMD is performed in crawl spaces and areas that are directly in contact with rock or soil. Suction is created under a specified polyethylene or equivalent flexible material (plastic sheet) permanently installed over exposed soil or rock. Vent piping and a fan draw radon from beneath the plastic sheet and exhaust it outdoors above the highest eave.

Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV)

When the SSD system is impractical, as is the case where there is an inaccessible crawl space, a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) can be used. These systems work by changing the air in the basement with fresh outside air, which is heated by transferring the heat from the warm inside air to the incoming outside air. Additionally these systems can be adjusted to provide a slight increase in pressure in the basement. The radon reduction thus obtained will be twofold, one due to the dilution of the radon and the other by the retarding effect of the pressure increase.

Sealing Sump Pits and Cracks (picoCure)

In addition to ASD, SSD, SMD, and HRV... picoCURE ensures the effectiveness of the system by sealing sump pits and significant cracks in the basement or foundation. Sump pits are sealed with covers that include view ports. PicoCURE Radon Mitigation systems are quiet, unobtrusive, maintenance-free, and permanently installed.

SOME KEY ELEMENTS TO RADON MITIGATION

The discharge shall be at least 10 feet above grade, 10 feet away from any opening that is less than two feet below the discharge, and above or at the eave of the roof.

The piping may also be routed up the outside the home, but the discharge must still meet the above criteria.

System fans should not be located inside the home or in a crawlspace. They can be in an attic, outdoors, or in a garage, provided there is no living space above the garage.

There should be an indicator located in a prominent location (see "Manometer" image above) that will easily indicate to the occupant that the system is functioning properly.

Power to the fan should be run in accordance with local electric codes; including permits where required.

All portions of the radon mitigation system are to be labeled and a simple instruction manual (with warranties) should be provided to the homeowner.

All homes with mitigation systems should be re-tested no sooner than 24 hours (nor later than 30 days) after installation to verify reduction in radon levels. The home should also be retested every two years.

Massachusetts Home Inspections

If you have a finished basement, any concealed foundation cracks, piping penetrations, crumbling field stone mortar and loose joints can allow small amounts of water into your finished area without you even knowing about it until the problem becomes excessive enough that it seeps right through your walls and into your basement living area, causing very expensive property damage. Your basement foundation walls are closer to any water table around your home, and if this water table is allowed to continuously build up excessive moisture alongside the exterior of your foundation, your concealed basement walls will deteriorate over time, causing expensive structural damage.

The possibility of your foundation cracking, crumbling and deteriorating over time and allowing water to seep, will always exist in homes with basements and crawlspaces. Many of our New England Basements have a reputation for being damp and musty if the exterior drainage system is improperly installed or if the builder failed to install modern waterproofing materials on the exterior portion of the foundation. If the exterior of your home has the proper water proofing materials installed along with proper exterior grading and all roof water is conveyed away from your foundation, your basement can become very desirable. So, the only way to achieve a permanent dry living condition in your basement is to become knowledgeable of any concealed cracks or openings that may exist now (and to what extent). Locating foundation issues early is important, so that appropriate action can be taken before serious seepage's cause major property damage.

My infrared camera will detect the slightest bit of water seepage at cracked or damaged foundation areas that are concealed behind your finished walls. Accumulating moisture along with the warmer conditioned air (from your boiler or furnace) will always have an absolute temperature difference and this difference is clearly visible with my infrared imaging camera. If I do detect any moist areas (or anomalies), I will be saving the images (IR and digital) of the areas of concern so that a professional report can be prepared for your building contractor. They can then use my report as a guide in performing an invasive inspection of the exact location of the area of concern.

Take that extra step today in order to keep your basement maintenance to a minimum. Allow me to thermally scan every portion of your finished basement in order to give you peace of mind knowing that your concealed foundation is doing what it was intended to do. No finished foundation area should be left unattended; unless of course, you don’t mind having a pool of dirty water accumulating in your basement.

The corner of this basement looks fine until my infrared camera detects major moisture intrusion from the exterior.

Massachusetts Infrared (Thermal) Imaging

Radiant Ice Melt Systems

Ice and snow melt systems are utilized in many applications throughout the state of Massachusetts. Business owners utilize snow and ice melt systems in outdoor malls, parking lots, car washes, walkways, and loading ramps to eliminate the expense of continuous snowplowing, to avoid skidding of vehicles and to prevent slip-and-fall accidents on their property.

As a convenience, homeowners of upper-end homes install ice and snow melt heating systems in their exterior slabs...including driveways, sidewalks, stairs, and patios to completely eliminate the need for any back breaking shoveling or snow removal.

There are two types of ice and snow melt systems in Massachusetts --- embedded electric heat cables and hydronic piping. In my experience most of the ice and snow melt systems in Massachusetts are predominately hydronic systems. This is basically a closed-loop tubing made of a flexible polymer (typically a cross-linked polyethylene) or a synthetic rubber that circulates a mixture of hot water and propylene glycol (antifreeze), much like the mixture used in an automobile radiator. A boiler will warm the fluid to temperatures of 140 to 180 F. which will provide sufficient heat throughout an exterior surface for melting any snow that may have the ability to accumulate. The concealed ice melt tubing ranges in diameter from 1/2 to 3/4 inch and is flexible enough to bend into various spiral or serpentine patterns (as seen in my infrared images below) to allow for an even heat distribution and warm up any exterior surface.

These in-slab snow melt systems are designed to have a long service life, but everyone knows that continuous use of any material will not last forever. When these embedded systems do fail, a plumbing repair is imminent. The problem with repairing this system is that the heating elements are completely embedded, and any repairs that need to take place are very difficult because the concrete around the damaged section of the embedded piping must be removed first. Locating and pinpointing the exact area of a rupture in any large ice and snow melt system is completely impossible with a visual inspection, so detecting the exact trouble spot is where Thermal Imaging comes into play.

A rupture in concealed hydronic tubing can easily be detected with a simple Infrared (Thermal) scan. There’s no guesswork involved. I simply pan the entire snow and ice melt surface with my infrared camera and it enables me to clearly detect every embedded heat pipe within minutes of heating up the system. If there are any ruptures, breaks or leaks in the concealed piping system, it will clearly show up as an anomaly and this defective area can now be marked out with a spray paint or marker with precision. This area of concern can now be carefully excavated (attempting to avoid damaging the existing piping) and properly repaired and then the surface can be re-patched. Infrared detection can keep all of your repair work down to a bare minimum.

A Massachusetts automobile dealership had a major leak in their ice and snow melt system, but was unable to pinpoint the concealed pipe leak visually.

My infrared scan detects the exact area of the ruptured pipe within minutes.

Infrared imaging allows me to detect the exact area of a pipe burst in this radiant ice and snow melt system.

An automatic car wash (installed right above an ice and snow melt system) had to be replaced without disturbing the concealed radiant heat piping.

My infrared scan made this heavy duty machinery replacement possible without disturbing the heat pipes embedded in the concrete floor below it.

A temporary orange marking paint was utilized to identify all the concealed pipe locations and used as a guideline to install the new automatic car wash. You can clearly see that embedded ice melt piping will never be straight.

Thermal imaging allows me to easily detect and pinpoint the exact location of the main supply line for this radiant ice and snow melt system.

Another automatic car wash upgrade requires infrared scanning in order to detect the exact location of all embedded piping. You can clearly see how these buried pipes will not remain perfectly straight when contractors pour concrete over them. Note the two foot void on the left.

This is another car wash with a radiant ice melt system that had failed. You can clearly see the bright yellow area where the embedded piping has failed.

The concrete floor was then breached and a Plumber successfully repaired the damaged pipe without having to tear up the entire car wash bay.

This image (above) is a perfect example of the problems that are associated with Aluminum wiring. Note letters A and B (the insulation jackets are melted), which I will explain "Why" in the third paragraph and C (mixing copper wiring with aluminum wiring on the same breaker). Aluminum wiring can not be mixed with copper wiring and breakers can not be double tapped with two wires, unless designated by manufacturer and the breaker connnection will contain a special clip for double tapping. Aluminum wiring is very easy to identify due to it's obvious aluminum color. Aluminum wiring is not to be confused with tin coated copper which looks similar to aluminum wiring but aluminum wiring has distinguishing characteristics and is a solid conductor.

During the 1970's, aluminum (instead of copper) wiring became quite popular and was extensively used throughout the United States. Since that time, aluminum wiring has been implicated in a number of house fires, which caused jurisdictions to no longer permit aluminum wiring in new installations. I highly recommend that you do not use aluminum wiring for any type of new installation. But don't panic if your house does contain aluminum wiring. Aluminum wiring, when properly installed, can be just as safe as copper wiring. Aluminum wiring is, however, very unforgiving of improper installations. I will cover a bit of the theory behind potential electrical problems, and what you can do to make your wiring (in your home) safe.

The main problem that exists with aluminum wiring is a phenomenon known as "cold creep". When aluminum wiring warms up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Unlike copper, when aluminum goes through a number of warm/cool cycles it loses a bit of it's tightness over time. To make the problem worse, aluminum oxidizes (or corrodes) when in contact with certain types of metal, so the resistance of the connection will go up. Which causes the aluminum wiring to heat up and corrode/oxidize even more. Eventually the wire may start to become very hot and melt the insulation jacket (shown in the picture above) or the fixture that it's attached to, and possibly even cause a fire.

Since people usually encounter aluminum wiring when they move into a house that was built in the 70's, I will cover the basic points of safe aluminum wiring. I suggest that, if you're considering purchasing a home with aluminum wiring or have discovered aluminum wiring after moving in, that you hire a licensed electrician to inspect the wiring for the following:

1) Fixtures (eg: outlets and switches) directly attached to aluminum wiring should be rated for it. The device will be stamped with "Al/Cu" or "CO/ALR". The latter supersedes the former, but both are completely safe. These fixtures are somewhat more expensive than the ordinary fixtures.

2) Wires should be properly connected (at least 3/4 way around the screw in a clockwise direction). All connections should be tight. While repeated tightening of the screws can make the problem worse, during the inspection it would pay off to snug up each connection.

{Note that stranded aluminum wiring is still often used for the main service entrance cable at your main panel. It should also be inspected.}

3) The "push-in" terminals are an extreme hazard with an aluminum wires. Any connections using the push-in terminals should be upgraded with the proper screw connections immediately.

4) There should be no signs of overheating: darkened connections, melted insulation, or "baked" fixtures. Any such damage should be repaired by a licensed Electrician and the connection should be upgraded.

5) Connections between aluminum and copper wire need to be handled specially. Current codes require that the connectors used must be specially marked for connecting aluminum to copper. The NEC requires that the wire be connected together using special crimp devices, with an anti-oxidant grease. The tools and materials for the latter are quite expensive - not practical to do it yourself unless you can rent the tool.

{Note that regulations are changing rapidly in this area. Suggest that you discuss any work with an Electrical inspector if you're going to do more than one or two connections.}

6) Any non-rated receptacles can be connected to aluminum wiring by means of a short copper "pigtail". See #5 above.

7) Shows reasonable workmanship: neat wiring, properly stripped (not nicked) wire etc.

If, when considering purchasing a home, my inspection of the exposed wiring (in your prospective home) shows no problems, you can consider the wiring safe. If there are signs of electrical problems in many places (which will be noted on your home inspection report), I suggest you consider a complete electrical inspection and possibly upgrading all branch wiring throughout the house. If the wrong receptacles are used, you can replace them with the proper type, or have the Electrician use pigtails. Having this professionally done by a licensed Electrician can run close to $10.00 per receptacle/switch plus hourly labor.

UPGRADING ALUMINUM WIRING

Massachusetts Home Inspections

There are a wide variety of chimneys in Massachusetts, which represent an even wider variety of interrelated components that comprise them. However, there are three basic types of chimneys: single-walled metal chimneys, masonry chimneys and pre-fabricated metal chimneys that are commonly referred to as factory-built chimneys. Single-walled metal chimneys should not be confused with factory-built chimneys, and are rarely found in residential use, but masonry (lined and un-lined) and factory-built chimneys are a commonplace in Massachusetts.

My inspection of chimneys is that of a Generalist and not a Specialist, and meets all industry standards. However, significant areas of chimney flues cannot be adequately viewed during a field inspection, as has been documented by the Chimney Safety Institute of America, which reported in 1992: "The inner reaches of a flue are relatively inaccessible, and it should not be expected that the distant oblique view from the top or bottom is adequate to fully document damage even with a strong light." Therefore, because my inspection of chimneys is limited to those areas that can be viewed without dismantling any portion of them, and does not include the use of specialized equipment, I will not guarantee their integrity. I recommend that all chimneys be video-scanned for deterioration or missing liners (see picture below) before the close of escrow.

CHIMNEY FLUES

Chimney flues need to be cleaned periodically, to prevent the possibility of a chimney fire. However, the complex variety of deposits that form within the chimney flues (as a result of incomplete combustion), and which contribute to such fires, are complicated and not easily understood. They range from soot or pure carbon that simply does not burn, to creosote tars that can easily ignite. All of these deposits are commonly described as creosote, but creosote has many forms, ranging from crusty carbon deposits that can be easily brushed away, to tar-glazed creosote that requires a professional chemical cleaning. These deposits must be identified and treated by a chimney Specialist. However, cleaning a chimney is not a guarantee against a chimney fire. Studies have proven that a significant percentage of chimney fires have resulted within one month of the chimney being cleaned and many more have resulted within a six-month period.

It is impossible for Massachusetts Home Inspections to determine with any degree of certainty whether all flues are free of defects. In accordance with recommendations made by the National Fire Prevention Association, I recommend that all home Buyers have the chimneys inspected before purchasing their home. You should consider having a C S I A, or equivalently certified chimney sweep, conduct a Level II inspection of all chimney flues prior to close of escrow.

UNLINED CHIMNEY IN NEED OF AN APPROVED LINER

Massachusetts Home Inspections

Your home is in escrow, and the Buyer has scheduled a home inspection. Should you (the Seller) be worried about what a home inspector (like myself) might uncover? The answer depends on the present condition of your home today and how well you've maintained its major components over the years that you’ve owned your home. Regardless of what a home inspector may uncover, you shouldn't be overly concerned about the actual home inspection itself. Keeping in mind that Massachusetts disclosure laws and customary real estate practices vary from location to location.

From my experience as a Massachusetts licensed home inspector, here are several suggestions as to how you might help the home inspection process go more smoothly: Keeping in mind that this list applies to those Sellers that have a Massachusetts licensed Real Estate Agent representing them. For those Sellers who are "For Sale By Owner's", please apply these suggestions to the best of your ability and you will experience less issues while your home is on the market.

Please leave the premises. It's perfectly reasonable to absent yourself from your home during a home inspector visit and turn over all the duties to your real estate Agent. An experienced Agent will be familiar with the home inspection process and will be able to act as your representative. In fact, many listing agents will prefer that the Seller not be at home during the Buyer's home inspection.

Be courteous. Some Sellers mistakenly assume that a home inspector is an adversary. Experienced professional home inspectors aren't on a mission to find fault with every little aspect of your home. My role (as a home inspector) is to offer all my Buyer's a fair assessment of your property. Tips: Don't keep the home inspector waiting on your doorstep and allow at least three hours (alone time) for the home inspection.

Don't attempt to refute negative comments about your home during or after the home inspection. I don't appreciate being followed around by argumentative or defensive home Sellers (or Sellers' Agents for that matter). The time to explain and negotiate anything about your home will come after you review the Buyers Agent’s request for repairs or upgrades. I do not get involved in the sale of your home after the home inspection, so please do not attempt to contact me after the home inspection is complete.

Don't make statements about your home that are beyond your personal knowledge or can't be verified. For instance, if asked about how old the roof is or when certain appliances were installed. Always check your records before you answer. If you have documentation, provide a copy of it to the Buyer(s) or Buyers' Agent. If repairs or modifications were made prior to you purchasing the home, please don't guess when that work was performed. The same caution about misrepresentations applies to questions about whether permits were obtained for remodeling, the exact square footage of your home, the name of the architect who designed it and so on. Copies of purchases and records of repairs make a real estate transaction go more smoothly.

Don't block access to normal living areas of your home. If I can't enter a room or complete some other aspect of the home inspection, that will simply be noted in my home inspection report as "Not Accessible" or "Not Inspected" and the Buyer will most likely question these items.

Make agreed-upon repairs promptly. The Buyer may ask me to re-inspect any repairs you agree to make as a result of the home inspection. The sooner you make the repairs, the sooner the contingency can be met. Delaying the repairs until the last minute won't stop the Buyer from having those items re-inspected, but it could possibly delay the closing.

Please make sure the gas, water, and electricity are turned "ON" and gas pilot lights are lit to prevent a component from being properly inspected.

Ensure that your pets won't hinder the home inspection. Tell your REALTOR® or leave a note at your kitchen table regarding cats or dogs that should be kept inside.

Remove any items or debris blocking the inspection of the following areas: electric service panels, water heaters, attic access ladders or hatches (some attic insulation may fall on your floor when hatch is opened), crawl-space access hatches, heating and/or air-conditioning equipment.

Replace any burned-out light bulbs.

Clean or replace dirty HVAC air filters.

Move any wood, stored items, or debris away from the interior and exterior of your foundation.

Unlock or remove locks from any items that the home inspector must access: gates in fences, electric service panels, crawl space access or attic hatches or doors, and special closets.

Trim back all tree limbs from the roof area and shrubs from the side of the house to allow me to easily access to the roof and siding.

Repair or replace broken, damaged or missing items; door knobs, locks, and latches, window screens, rain gutter hardware, downspouts and extensions, window locks, broken/cracked glass, backflow devices on all exterior faucets, and install screened chimney flue caps for fireplaces flues.

And last but not least: Massachusetts law requires that all residential structures be equipped with approved smoke detectors and CO (Carbon Monoxide) detectors upon sale. The local fire department will issue a certificate to prove compliance. You (the Seller) are responsible for obtaining this certificate before close of escrow. Your Realtor will go over this with you. So please prepare to test all smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors and replace batteries if needed.

Although some asbestos has been removed from our homes over the past years, there are many thousands of tons of asbestos still present in our homes today. There still remains extensive repair and removal work, which will definitely continue for the foreseeable future. The main source of asbestos in our indoor air is located in our insulation products throughout our homes. Buildings that were built in the last 50 years were built with a variety of materials composed of asbestos mixed with other fibers like paper, fiberglass, or synthetic fibers and a binder, usually lime or gypsum mortar. Manufacturers utilized asbestos for strengthening cement and plastics as well as for insulation, fireproofing, and sound absorption. Today, the most common domestic materials (in your home) that may contain asbestos are...

Furnace and Boiler insulation covering

Hot water pipe insulation

Tape at old furnace supply duct connections

Stove and transite flue pipes

Some exterior stucco

Attic insulation (usually vermiculite)

Artificial ashes and embers for use in gas-fired Fireplaces

Roofing mastic and asphalt composition roofing shingles and house siding material

Adhesive mastics for flooring, vinyl floor tiles ( usually the 9" x 9" tiles), asphalt floor tiles, and sheet vinyl flooring  

Interior plaster and drywall joint patching compounds

Textured paints

Parts of some pre-1979 appliances (e.g. toasters, clothes dryers, hair dryers)

Asbestos was also used as a component of spray applied to textured ceilings. For many years, acoustic-ceiling (textured cottage cheese) was a standard feature in many homes, and until the late 1970's, asbestos was a common component of that ceiling material. Fortunately, this type of asbestos is not regarded as a significant health hazard unless it is disturbed (falling apart).

SHOULD ASBESTOS BE REMOVED?

Nothing is more frustrating than dealing with a wet or flooded basement. Wet or moist basements and crawl spaces are sources of high humidity, which can produce surface condensation, mildew and fungi, musty odors, and an unhealthful environment for its occupants. Such continuous moisture can cause deterioration of the foundation mortar, floor joists, beams, supports, sub flooring, insulation, and electrical-mechanical systems.

Prolonged water around the footer and foundation wall can soften the soil and weaken its bearing capacity, increasing the possibility of foundation wall settlement and cracking. Serious seepage under the foundation footer may erode soil away and cause the wall to drop or crack into a V-shaped pattern. Excessive moisture can eventually penetrate or wick into the sub flooring and buckle the flooring or cause warping of the flooring, making doors and closets difficult to open or close. Since crawl space or basement dampness always moves toward the drier upstairs areas, higher humidity will result in costlier heating and air conditioning bills. In the case of crawl spaces, if the under flooring insulation collects moisture, or sags from excessive moisture, the heating and air conditioning costs are driven even higher. Finally, wet basements and crawl spaces reduce the value of the house, at least by the amount that would be required to repair the damage and to eliminate the initial cause of the problem. Some homeowners (or Sellers) are reluctant to discuss or admit their water problem; for fear that the publicity of an actual or even a perceived problem would reduce the value of their real estate investment.

Homeowner insurance that fully covers basement flooding damage is an important means of financial protection to homeowners. Coverage for wet basements varies from state to state and company to company. But typically, the damage from water seeping in from the outside or backing up from the sewer is not covered by standard homeowner policies. In some cases, special coverage can be purchased to cover these risks, but it is usually very limited in the types of personal property it covers and amounts of coverage that may be purchased.

It is up to each homeowner to know how to prevent water damage before it starts. This can be done through proper home maintenance and installation of systems intended to remove or divert water before it is even allowed to get anywhere near the basement cavity. Trust me, I live in a flood zone and I do not get a drop of water from those three or four day rains. I simply purchased my flood zone home, analyzed the situation and properly corrected the existing issues. I performed thousands of home inspections and observed hundreds of flooded basements, so I enjoy showing homeowners how to alleviate the moisture accumulation in and around their home.

CAUSE OF WET BASEMENTS AND CRAWLSPACES

Most wet basements or crawl spaces are caused by surface water accumulating around your home, which is not adequately drained away from the exterior foundation wall. This water accumulation will simply cause puddling next to your home and eventually this saturated area will have nowhere else to drain to except down into your basement or crawl space.

Sources of this water include the following:

-Roof water, if no gutters and downspouts are presently installed to convey roof water away from your home.

-Roof water, if your gutters leak at the seams or overflow because of clogging from leaves and bird nests.

-Roof water, if the downspouts (leaders) are clogged or do not have sufficient means at their outlets to drain water out and away from the foundation wall. Frequently, a downspout ends right at the corner of the house without an elbow and a 4-6 foot extension to carry roof water away from the foundation, leaving roof water to concentrate at that outlet point and seep right into the soil next to the foundation wall. A typical 2000 square foot roof can produce almost 1250 gallons of water during just 1 inch of rainfall. If the rainfall is steady and prolonged for days, the opportunity for this roof water to saturate into the ground next to the foundation wall is high.

-Excessive watering of flower beds and shrubbery around the foundation wall. Once the upper soil layer or mulch bed air spaces are filled with water, the excess water either runs off or seeps into the ground next to the wall. Prolonged and excessive watering can contribute to a large amount of water accumulation next to basements walls.

-Rainwater runoff from any adjacent lawn areas that are getting saturated, improperly sloped driveway or walkway areas if the landscaping forces water to drain toward the house instead of away. If surface runoff is directed toward your foundation wall, this water will pond and eventually soak into the soil, thus becoming a potential source of basement or crawl space water. Downspout splash pads are not very effective if they drain onto a backward-draining slope toward the foundation wall. I consider these splash pads useless.

-Subsurface or excessive groundwater may be intercepted or dammed up by a basement or foundation wall. Houses which are built next to a down slope on or at the base of hillsides are particularly vulnerable since there is greater opportunity for surface water to saturate the hillside soil and then flow heavily downhill and become groundwater next to your foundation. Foundation walls act like dams and can intercept and trap this subsurface water, causing pressure build-up on the outside and forcing water through joints and cracks in basement walls or cause seepage under the foundation footer leading to a high water table that will seep up through your concrete floor.

-Nearby springs may have been filled in or covered up by the developer. Unless the springs were properly drained away from the lot or subdivision, such water will eventually seep into the surrounding fill, become a pool of groundwater, and eventually get deeper and cause the accumulating water to spread out onto neighboring properties and force itself laterally and upwardly into basements and crawl spaces.

-Nearby creeks may overflow during a heavy storm runoff and either directly flood basement or crawl space areas, or contribute to accumulating groundwater, which may become sufficiently high enough to cause seepage into the basement or crawl space area. Homeowners may not experience the effects of groundwater seepage or overflowing creeks for months or years after purchasing a house because of drought or infrequent out-of-bank flooding. However, when such conditions do occur, they may come suddenly without warning and cause serious problems after the builders warranty period has already expired.

-Improperly installed, clogged, collapsed, or leaky drains may not allow downspout water or foundation wall water to escape. Perimeter, footer, or foundation drains are installed around the exterior of a house below the basement floor to intercept and dispose of subsurface water to eliminate groundwater build-up and seepage under the house. If these drains are improperly installed or become clogged with silt or roots, they will not operate as intended. Sometimes an otherwise good perimeter drain gets covered up at its end(s) during the final backfilling or landscaping stages of construction and the intercepted water has no place to go but to build up behind the foundation wall and eventually seep into the basement or crawl space.

-Underground drains leading away from downspouts may not have sufficient slope to carry water away; may empty into the adjacent lawn and get covered with topsoil; may become crushed during landscaping or become pinched at their outlets; or may lead to an area which ponds and backs up accumulating water. The end result in all these cases is leakage or overflowing at the bottom of the downspout and water penetrating the foundation area.

-Soil continuously draws water up from subsurface groundwater sources in a crawl space like a blotter by a mechanism known as capillary attraction. The finer the soil (e.g. clays), the more aggressive the capillary pumping action. As the water rises to the surface, it evaporates into the crawl space. Such ground moisture can be a significant source of dampness and humidity under a house, even without standing water. The presence of capillary water is often indicated by a whitish residue, left on the ground surface of the crawl spaces, resulting from evaporation of water containing minerals and salts. Lack of a moisture barrier, such as plastic sheet, will allow this capillary action and evaporation to contribute almost unlimited moisture sources to crawl space areas.

DRYING OUT A WET BASEMENT

If you have water running into your basement, the first thing to do is to see if it occurs immediately after a rain. If this is the case, it is probably due to surface water puddling against the outside of the basement walls. This is the most common source of basement water problems and one that you may be able to fix yourself.

First of all, you need to locate the source of entry. I suggest you look for ways exterior run-off water can enter into this area in the basement. Make sure downspout runoff isn't pooling or percolating into soil near the foundation during a storm, and that gutter and downspout seams aren't leaking. Gutters should be catching the rain and channeling it to the downspouts. Make sure there is no debris blocking the inlet of the downspout and preventing water from escaping down the spout. The downspouts should have extensions so that they discharge the water at least five feet away from the house.

Check the ground outside your foundation. Unfortunately, the earth that was used to back fill around most foundations settles over the years so it is extremely common for earth near the house to be lower than the rest of the yard. All grading should slope away from your house at least 1 inch vertically for every 1 foot of horizontal travel. If earth is already near the top of the foundation or if your lot slopes toward the house on one side, you may need to use another approach. In this case, establish a swale or shallow ditch on that side of the house to intercept the surface water and carry it around the house and down slope toward the street. Place the drainage path as far from the house as possible. If you have enough space, the ditch can easily be made less noticeable by blending it into the lawn.

If you have pavement immediately next to the house, be sure it slopes away. If a driveway or sidewalk is either extremely flat or slopes toward the house you have several choices. You can replace the pavement and correct the grade in the process. If it is concrete, you can have it mud jacked (raised), which usually costs about half as much as replacing the concrete. You can also add an additional layer of pavement next to the house to reverse the slope. If you do the latter, you will also need to caulk joints and cracks in the drive or sidewalk so that water which pools on the surface doesn't penetrate and end up in the basement.

Window wells are another common source of basement water problems. The window well itself should be much deeper than the window sill to provide a place to catch rain that might fall into it. The top rim should be 3 to 4" above grade with the ground sloping away so that water is not channeled into the window well. If the window well is on a side of the house where wind drives rain or ice against the house, installing a plastic bubble cover over the well will help keep rain, leaves and snow out.

Fixing any grading related problems such as those mentioned here will take care of the majority of basement water problems and should always be done first, even if you are considering other measures such as repairing a leaky crack in a Poured Concrete foundation. If that's the case, I personally recommend that you contact a Massachusetts based company called Crack-X. They will bond your crack surfaces together by injecting a specially formulated epoxy material that will stop water from leaking into your basement. This process closes the crack and restores the structural integrity of the wall by producing a "weld" that is equal to the original concrete in strength and performance. They will offer a ten year warranty. They can be contacted by phone at 1-877-CRACK-FX or browse their website at http://www.crackfx.com

SEVERE FLOODING IN BASEMENTS (Waterproofing)

In my humble opinion, "water proofing" systems, especially those on the exterior of a building should be used only as a last resort. Many water proofing systems involve water collection and discharge and are very costly. If you've tried all my recommendations and water is still gushing into your basement, and you can not resolve this, I recommend that you call in a professional. Otherwise, consider an interior gutter. This dam-and-channel system goes around the perimeter of the basement floor and collects water that flows down or through the walls or floor, routing it to a floor drain or sump pump. If you decide to go this route, I highly recommend contacting a Massachusetts based company called B-Dry at 1-888-400-2379 or browse their website HERE.

Plesae Note: All states vary on home inspection standards. The information below simply pertains to Massachusetts only.

Important information for Home Buyers...

Home Inspector Facts For Consumers

I walked through the house, it looks fine. Why should I get a home inspection?

One of the single most expensive and important purchases you will ever make in your entire life will be your HOME. However, unlike the guarantee a buyer receives with most purchases, there's no money-back guarantee or return policy if you're not satisfied with your recently purchased home. Once you buy a home, you're on your own to maintain it, repair it, anticipate problems and pay the bills. This is why it's best to know as much as you can about potential problems before you make the commitment to buy.

As a home Buyer, you'll want to ensure that your getting a good value for your investment. A home inspection is an excellent tool for you to take advantage of. It'll allow me to perform a comprehensive visual inspection of your new home before you decide to purchase such a huge investment. I'll determine the components that are not performing properly as well as items that are beyond their useful life or are unsafe. I will also identify those areas where repairs may be needed now or where there may have been problems in the past.

If you are currently a home owner and looking to sell your house, you may want to get your home inspected before putting it out on the market for an opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition. I will give you a better understanding of the conditions which may be discovered by the buyer's inspector. Allow me to assist you in turning your home into a buyer friendly home and assessing the pros and cons before you place your home on the market.

Can I do the Home Inspection myself?

If you would like to do the home inspection yourself, that's absolutely fine. But remember, you must be able to open the electric service panel and determine whether there are any wiring violations. You must be able to walk the roof surfaces to determine the condition of the roofing material, flashing and drains, while noting defective conditions and any faulty methods of installation. You must evaluate the plumbing fixtures, supply lines, waste lines and gas piping to determine their operational condition and their compliance with accepted building standards. You must inspect the heating system to determine its functional condition and identify any of a long list of potential safety problems. You must also crawl under the building and through the attic, searching for and recognizing a vast number of potential construction defects. And hopefully you can locate the Asbestos and other hazardous materials within the home. A complete list of likely problems could easily fill a book.

A home inspection is the process of investigative discovery. It involves a serious observation with a trained eye, recognition and conclusive evaluation of countless related and seemingly unrelated conditions. It requires numerous judgments and decisions as to degrees of severity, proposed means of correction, advisement's for further evaluation when necessary, warnings of inherent risks to life and property and the likelihood of future problems.

I can recognize and identify defects in every imaginable situation within the realm of modern and not-so-modern housing. When buying a home, it is best to engage the services of a qualified, experienced home inspector such as myself. You will not regret it.

The house is newly constructed, and was just inspected by the municipal inspector. Shouldn't this inspection be adequate?

No one can build something as large and complex as a house without committing a few errors at various stages of the process. Throughout my years of inspecting, I have learned that all new homes will have their defects of one kind or another, regardless of the quality of construction or the integrity of the builder. This is because human imperfection prevents anything as large and as complex as a home from being constructed flawlessly.

The belief that any new product is free of defects and necessarily flawless runs contrary to common sense and experience. The return counter at any department store provides ample evidence of this fact. When applied to new homes, the belief that new means perfect can lead to very costly mistakes.

Many home buyers feel that they do not need to employ a professional home inspector because municipal building inspectors regularly inspect new homes. Let me personally tell you that a municipal inspection is not enough. The purpose, scope, time allotment and procedures are not the same for municipal inspections as they are for home inspections on the behalf of Buyers.

Home Buyers need to understand that many building inspectors are seeing over 12-15 homes a day and are inspecting primarily for code compliance's, and not for quality of workmanship. They can cite a builder for improper structural framing or for non-complying drain connections, but a poorly fitted door, improper installation of components, unprofessional installation of wiring, an uneven tile counter top and shoddy finish work are not on their list of concerns. Municipal inspectors rarely inspect an attic or a sub-area crawlspace. They come to the job site with a clipboard and a code book, not with a ladder, high-tech tools and overalls. Construction defects in such areas can escape discovery. Municipal inspectors typically inspect a roof from the ground or possibly from the builder's ladder. From these perspectives, roof defects are not always apparent.

Municipal inspections are performed before the utilities are turned on, so municipal inspectors cannot determine if the appliances and fixtures work. They don't test outlets for ground and polarity because this can be done only after the power is turned on. Nor, without power, can they test the performance of GFCI or AFCI safety breakers. Because there is no water or gas yet, municipal inspectors can't test plumbing fixtures such as sinks, showers, tubs and dishwashers, or gas fixtures such as furnaces, fireplaces and water heaters.

The municipal inspector is not looking at specific construction practices that tend to determine if a home is going to be a trouble-free investment or one that will require significant modification and repair in the future. As I previously mentioned, they are primarily code compliance inspectors. In the past, I've always picked up on many building or safety infractions that municipal building officials had totally ignored. I've never performed a newly constructed home inspection that was totally flawless. Your home inspection report will always contain a list of items that need to be corrected. There is no perfect home. So, a professional home inspection on a brand new home is always beneficial. As one municipal inspector has stated in the past..."What we do is a cursory inspection, we do not check everything. That is not our job. We don't even warrant the work. We are going to look for the big stuff." The keyword here is "BIG STUFF". My question is.....How do they find the BIG STUFF on a simple cursory inspection?

Another interesting fact is, anyone who has worked in the construction field can tell stories of the shortcuts and human errors that routinely occur, even on the best built of homes. Workmen have bad days, materials can have defects, details can be overlooked, components can be omitted, and municipal building inspectors can have too little time to check every nook and cranny within the house.

So the choice is yours. If you still would like to take chances on waiving your home inspection on your newly constructed home, I seriously think you're making a big mistake and I honestly wish you the best of luck. There is a lot of shoddy construction out there and the construction errors I find on a daily basis is absolutely astonishing. Maybe this news clip will help you make your decision.

What does a home inspection include?

I will thoroughly inspect everything that makes up the House. Over 400 items are inspected throughout your property to include the following...

Electrical - All accessible wiring from the Street to the interior Receptacles

Roof, Trim, Vents and Proper Flashing's

Gutters and Exterior Drainage

Driveways, Walkways and Grading

Chimney, Dormers & Skylights

Siding, Windows and Flashing's

Garage Doors, Sensors and Openers

Decks, Stoops, Porches and Patios

Interior Walls, Floors and Ceilings

Plumbing Piping / Waste and Supply

Kitchen and Bath Fixtures

Windows, Doors and Locks

Structure, Foundation and Framing

Heating and Air Conditioning

Water Heating System

Water, Gas and Electrical Shut-offs

Fireplace, Damper Door and Hearth

Attic Insulation, Ventilation and Active Leaks

Basement and/or Crawlspace

Accessible Sump Pump floats

All Safety Concerns will be addressed immediately

See InterNACHI standards of practice for a complete list of the systems covered in a home inspection.

Should I be there at the home inspection?

Absolutely. It's not required, but it is very much to your advantage to be present from start to finish. It's a lot easier for me to explain a home when you (the Buyer) are actually there on site! If you cannot make it, then please have someone you know on site to represent you, so that I can explain the property and go over any items and details that may need your attention.

I'll slowly walk you through your perspective home and help you understand the house while I provide you with a wealth of knowledge that's hard to acquire any other way. I'll be talking to you through the entire home inspection. After walking you through the home, you'll be able to clearly understand the inspection report, and know exactly which areas need your attention and there will be no surprises later on. Additionally, I can give you answers to your questions, tips for home maintenance, and a lot of general information that will assist you when you move into your new home. Most important, you'll see the home through the eyes of an objective third party.

Who else will attend the inspection?

Many variables affect who attends a home inspection. In most cases, however, Buyers hire me as their private consultant, which means the Buyer should have the last word on who should attend their home inspection.

Real estate agents usually coordinate who attends the home inspection, but circumstances often override their preferences. In some cases, Buyers are unable to attend because they live out of the area or are not able to get time off from work. In those instances, Home Inspectors may be accompanied by the Buyers agent or a representative on the Buyers side. The Sellers agent will gain access to the home and usually supply me with the Sellers disclosure and/or the listing sheet. This Agent then stays out of the picture for the remainder of the inspection. The Buyers agent will accompany the Buyer to the inspection most of the time. There are situations that arise in which the Buyers agent will send an assistant to answer any questions the Buyer may have. In most cases, Buyers will attend all or part of my home inspection. This may occur with or without his/her Agent, or it may also include contractors and possibly some relatives and friends.

Whether Sellers should attend the inspection is more complicated. Buyers cannot forbid the Sellers from remaining during the inspection. Some Sellers willingly leave for a few hours, some remain without involving themselves in the inspection, and still others become actively involved, engaging the buyers in lengthy conversations or shadowing the Inspector on every step. It’s always best to have the Sellers leave for the duration of the inspection, as I’ve ran into situations in the past where my clients became very upset because the Sellers remained in the home during the inspection. I (personally) do not like to see Sellers present during my inspections.

Many Real Estate agents attempt to prevent direct communication between Buyers and Sellers, especially during the home inspection. They want to prevent emotional exchanges that might hurt the sale. Often, however, attending the inspection fosters goodwill among all parties. Each case is distinct and hinges on personalities, rather than protocol.

While I’m talking with my client’s and reviewing my findings, they often prefer a private consultation, without the Sellers present. In some instances, Sellers instinctively understand this and offer the Buyers and myself a private spot to meet in the house (I prefer the kitchen area).

The worst of all arrangements is when the Buyers agent advises their Buyers not to attend the home inspection and appoint themselves as intermediaries. Agents who suggest such arrangements are not acting in the best interests of their clients. I will not conduct an inspection solely with the Buyers agent unless authorized by the Buyer.

As a Buyer, keep in mind that you have hired me to be your advocate. The home inspection is paid for by you and presented for your benefit. I have a reputation for thoroughness, and I don't let anyone else set the rules on my home inspections.

When is the best time to schedule a home inspection?

The best time to schedule a home inspection is right after the offer to purchase contract is signed, prior to executing the final purchase and sales agreement. However, before you sign the offer to purchase contract, be sure that your Realtor includes an inspection clause in your contract making the purchase obligation contingent upon the findings of a professional home inspection. This clause should specify the terms to which both the Buyer and Seller are obligated.

How long will the home inspection take?

The time will vary depending on both the size and condition of the home. For most single family homes (under 2,000 sq.ft.), 3 hours is pretty typical for me. But for larger homes and multi-family homes, or homes in poor condition, it may take me longer. Small condominiums usually take anywhere from 1 1/2 to 2 hours, depending on the conditions of the building and unit.

What if the report reveals problems?

No house is perfect. The primary objective of a home inspection report is to provide you with detailed information about the home and to point out any major defects before you decide to purchase it. Remember, all homes have defects; the perfect home simply just does not exist. Potential home buyers often incorrectly view my inspection report as a mandatory repair list for the seller. The fact is that sellers are not required to produce a flawless house. They have no such obligation by law or by contract; therefore, most repairs are subject to negotiation between you and the Seller.

Typically, Buyers will request that various conditions be repaired before the close of escrow, and Sellers will usually agree to some of those demands. But with most building defects, Sellers make repairs as a matter of choice, not obligation, in order to foster good will or to help accomplish the sale. Sellers can refuse any repair demands except where requirements are set forth by state law, local ordinance or the real estate purchase contract. Purchase contracts usually stipulate that safety issues be resolved, fixtures working, windows not be broken, and that there be no leaks in the roof or plumbing.

Before you make any demands of the Seller, try to evaluate my inspection report with an eye toward problems of greatest significance. Look for conditions that compromise health and safety or involve potential or active leaks in the plumbing or the roof. Most Sellers will address problems affecting crucial areas or items such as the roof, electrical, plumbing problems and big-ticket items such as the furnace and water heater. Your inspection report will not indicate whether or not the house is a good value. It is simply an objective report of its condition. Please consult with your Realtor to help you work through an appropriate repair request list to present to the Seller.

What's the difference between a Home Appraiser and a Home Inspector?

Home appraisers are trained in the valuation of real property and are not home inspectors. Generally, real estate appraisers do not climb on the roof, remove the cover from the electrical panel or examine the furnace and appliances as would a home inspector. Home inspectors are trained to be experts in all facets of construction and conduct an on-site inspection to review your house as a system, looking at how one component of the house might affect the operability or lifespan of another. Appraisers perform a different service with a different level of expertise than a professional home inspector.

Will I be able to walk through the property again before closing?

In most cases, you'll be given the opportunity to inspect the home one last time immediately prior to closing escrow. This time, it's important to check on any work the Seller agreed to have done in response to your initial home inspection. You should also carefully check the condition of walls and ceilings from which window treatments, pictures, or any other attached furnishings have been removed. If you find any problems, don't hesitate to bring them up at the closing. It's the Seller's responsibility to correct them.

What shall I do to prepare for the home inspection?

You, as the Buyer (or your Real Estate agent) must obtain permission for me to enter the premises in order to inspect the property. It's helpful for you (or the Realtor) to notify the Sellers that all utilities must be on and all gas pilots lit prior to the inspection. I will be looking over all areas of the home and its mechanical systems. In order for me to complete the work properly, I must have access to all areas, including the attic, basement, garage, and all mechanical equipment. If I cannot gain access to certain components due to stored materials or some other reason, the home inspection cannot be completed. This will be reported as "not inspected" and may create surprises for you when you do finally gain access to these areas.

When is payment expected?

Payment is expected at the conclusion of your home inspection. I accept cash, check, money order or travelers checks. No credit cards please.

What additional services do you provide?

What if I have questions after my home inspection is complete?

If you have last minute questions after your home inspection, you may contact me directly via email or telephone. My phone lines are open from 8:00am till 8:00pm. Telephone consultation is Free. I will be available for your questions for as long as you own your home. I will always give you the personal service and attention you deserve.

How do I find a competent home inspector?

The inspector’s qualifications, including their experience, training, certifications and professional affiliations should be the most important considerations. There are home inspectors out there that are not licensed or have no certifications whatsoever, so be careful in your decision making. The best source is a friend, or perhaps a business acquaintance, who has been satisfied with and can recommend a home inspector that they have used in the past. In addition, the names of local inspectors can be found on the Internet where many home inspectors will advertise under keywords "Massachusetts Home Inspections". Real estate Buyer agents are also generally familiar with the service and should be able to provide you with a list of names from which to choose from.

Please be sure you read....Home Inspector Facts For Consumers

Whatever your referral source, you will want to make sure that the home inspector is a Member of the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) in order to be certain of his or her professional qualifications, experience, and business ethics.

Should I include an inspection contingency in my offer?

An “inspection contingency” protects you as the Buyer in a purchase offer, by allowing you to cancel closing on the deal if I (the home inspector) did find problems with the property. As soon as the Seller accepts your written offer, the document becomes a legally binding contract. The purchase contract can be written to include a contingency for any repairs found to be needed or related items the Seller must take care of before the closing of escrow. If these are not dealt with, and you have such a clause in your contract, you can delay or possibly cancel your closing. If it’s not stated in the contract, you could face losing your deposit. There also may be costly legal implications stemming from backing out of your contract. You have the right to choose your own home inspector (and are responsible for paying for the inspection). In addition to an overall inspection for structural soundness, you can request a satisfactory wood boring insect report, roof inspection report or contingency for no potential environmental hazards such as asbestos or radon gas, which I do provide as an option. Contingency clauses should satisfy the concerns of both the Buyer and the Seller. Buyers also can protect themselves by inserting additional necessary contingencies. Indicate which items like curtains and appliances are to remain with the house. Then stipulate that you have the right to personally inspect the home 24 hours before closing, to make sure all is in order.

I'm looking for a thorough inspection, how do I know you qualify?

Benefits of hiring Massachusetts Home Inspections

What does a home inspection cost?

Rates will vary from home to home depending upon the square footage and any optional services that you may want inspected. Beware! Choosing a home inspector based on price alone is like playing Russian roulette with your money and your home! Home inspectors who charge lower rates do so because they either do not have few satisfied customers who will refer them or because they are new to the industry. Inexperienced inspectors and those who charge less than the industry average do less, know less and therefore charge less. Why people would put their dream home at risk over a $25 to $50 price difference is beyond me! For the information gained from my inspection, my report and my 64 page "Know Your Home" manual will represent the smartest money spent on your new home.

Avoid Price Shopping: Lower home inspector fees should be regarded with suspicion, as they often identify those who are new to the business or who do not spend sufficient time performing the inspection. A home is the most expensive commodity you are likely to purchase in a lifetime. One defect missed by your inspector could cost 100 times what you save with a bargain inspection.

Think about it. How many houses does an average person purchase in a lifetime? Three, maybe four? And how often? Once a decade? How would you like to go to a dentist that fills one tooth a decade? How would you like to go to a heart surgeon that does one operation a decade? You wouldn’t. So it's best to ask your Realtor to assist you on choosing a home inspector. Ask your Realtor what questions you should be asking the home inspector. Truth is, you should be asking your home inspector “How much money are you going to save me”? A good home inspector isn’t going to cost you money. A good home inspector is going to save you money. The best method of price shopping is to shop for quality. That's what you'll receive with Massachusetts Home Inspections.