Get It Together With These 3 Tips
by Terri Cooper
www.realestatemastery.com.au
 
Tip Number One: Copy Someone Who's Already Getting the Results You Want
 
As the saying goes: "Success leaves Clues!"The great thing is that to be incredibly successful in real estate, you don't need to re-invent the wheel!
 
Agents who are consistently making huge commissions right now, have left clues to their success. If you were to study the top real estate performers, you would notice strong consistencies:
 
These top agents regard themselves as C.E.O.s of their own company. They might work under a franchise banner but they take full responsibility for what happens each day in their business.
 
They think in terms of solutions rather than problems; of opportunities rather than obstacles. Their motto could be: "If it's to be, it's up to me".
 
They take credit for their successes and learn from their mistakes. They look on everything as feedback and use this feedback as fuel to propel them forward.
 
Look for a coach, look for a mentor, look around you in your own office, your suburb and even further afield. You will find that if you are serious and committed, the top agents will always have time to show you the ropes, the clues to their own success.
 
Tip Number Two: Get a Plan
 
Take time-out to work "ON" not "IN" your business. Use a friend, a coach, use anyone you know who can help you to clearly articulate your goals. Work out what you would like to earn, how long you want it to take, and the steps you need to take to make this happen. This more than anything will move you forward and will give you the motivation you need to take the necessary action steps to be hugely successful.
 
Real estate is a numbers game. If you do the right things often enough and consistently enough, you will succeed, it is as simple as that. But you will not succeed if you have no plan. The most exciting thing happens when the goals are your own -- the most important person they benefit is YOU. Your Principal is there to help you and share knowledge, but in the end, it is you and you alone who are responsible for setting your targets and planning your future.
 
Have a business plan which shows you exactly how much you want to earn this year and exactly how you need to go about it. How many appraisals, how many listing appointments, how many sales etc.?  The actual targets are not half as frightening as you think they might be - the most frightening thing is the unknown. This process will clarify your thinking, and keep you on track when things don't go according to plan. As I said earlier, real estate is a numbers game. As long as you focus only on the numbers you will move forward.
 
Tip Number Three: Get Over It
 
The last lesson in this mini-series is such an important one for me to share with you. When I first entered the world of real estate sales, this was one of the most important pieces of advice that I received.  Everyone is only human - when things don't work out, yes you may get angry, you may feel disappointed and let-down, but the important thing is to give yourself only a limited time to wallow.
 
You must let it go and move on, otherwise this industry will kill your joy and turn you into a walking bundle of stress (which will not endear you to your clients I can tell you!)
 
So, to recap: You will be guaranteed of making more sales when you: Consistently model the attitudes and habits of top performers, Get a clear plan, a clear direction with action steps to achieve your goals, and then Continually practice the attitude of being in the moment, learning from the past, but letting go of the disappointments and creating the future as you want it to be!

I'm seeking some response to everyone's feelings on Pre-listing or seller inspections. In this troubled market I think every advantage should be taken for individuals to sell their house.  I have performed these types of inspections and have met with some success for the seller.  Percentage wise, I have about a 60/40 split on it's success (60% selling).  On the homes that did sell, of which the seller did correct issues with the house for better showing, the seller did think the inspection and report was worthwhile and did help with the marketing of the house.  On those that did not sell, the sellers did not correct issues, and didn't use the report as a marketing tool. 

What is everybody's opinion on the concept of Pre-listing/Seller inspections?   The advantages to the buyer are:

• The inspection is done already.
• The inspection is paid for by the seller.
• The report provides a more accurate, third-party view of the condition of the home prior to making an offer.
• A seller inspection eliminates surprise defects.
• Problems are corrected or at least acknowledged prior to making an offer on the home.
• A seller inspection reduces the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• The report might assist in acquiring financing.
• A seller inspection allows the buyer to sweeten the offer without increasing the offering price by waiving inspections.

The advantages to the seller and Realtor:

• The seller can choose an inspector of their choice Home Check America for one, rather than be at the mercy of the buyer's choice of inspector.
• The seller can schedule the inspections at the seller's convenience.
• It might alert the seller of any items of immediate personal concern, such as radon gas or active termite infestation.
• The seller can assist the inspector during the inspection, something normally not done during a buyer's inspection.
• The seller can have the inspector correct any misstatements in the inspection report before it is generated.
• The report can help the seller realistically price the home if problems exist.
• The report can help the seller substantiate a higher asking price if problems don't exist or have been corrected.
• A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which:
  • might make the home show better.
  • gives the seller time to make repairs and shop for competitive contractors.
  • permits the seller to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report.
  • removes over-inflated buyer procured estimates from the negotiation table.
• The report might alert the seller to any immediate safety issues found, before agents and visitors tour the home.
• The report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to potential buyers.
• A seller inspection permits a clean home inspection report to be used as a marketing tool.
• A seller inspection is the ultimate gesture in forthrightness on the part of the seller.
• The report might relieve a prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
• A seller inspection lightens negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• The report might encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
• The deal is less likely to fall apart the way they often do when a buyer's inspection unexpectedly reveals a problem, last minute.
• The report provides full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

Let's discuss and see where this idea goes shall we?

Recently I sat down with a very successful business person, at my request, to talk about how to become even more successful in business.   While I am acquainted with and admire many successful business people in my area, I really wanted to discuss the dynamics of being successful from this one successful person who started from scratch.  Not an individual who worked themselves up the ladder of good organizations. 

As we talked and enjoyed our lunch, I asked what was his one true key to success, if there is only one?  His reply was short, simple, and made great sense.  His reply - "Under promise and over produce"!  Whether that promise involves putting in long hours, learning a new skill, gaining knowledge about client needs, or various other concepts/ideas.  Make your customer #1 so he doesn't go anywhere else for that type of business.  Of course, he expanded upon this concept with dealings he had starting out and continuing to this day.

Makes sense doesn't it: under promise -over produce!  We have met many through our dealings who over promised and under produced when we needed or wanted their product or service.  Think back on those experiences and remember how it made us feel.  Not like we were their number one priority did it?  What would we have done different?  How would we have made the situation right?  How could we under promise and over produce?   

How do we under promise and over produce?  Here are just a few examples, but don't stop there:

1. Do not create a deadline for your efforts that you know is unreasonable and unattainable. 
2. Know your strengths and weaknesses.  Improve upon both!
3. Don't be afraid to ask for assistance from others around you.
4. Learn a skill or gain knowledge that can enhance your services to your clients.
5. Set attainable goals for you, your client and the transaction.
6. Deliver on your promise way before it is due!
7. Give outstanding service.

These are some tough times we are going through.  Standing out from the rest is what will make us successful and be the individual people run to for your services; not the person they run from. 

MAKING THE GRADE

Proper grading and draining around a home is one of those things that few people see when shopping for a home, and yet it can have one of the most significant impacts on a homes condition and the health of its occupants. As a professional home inspector since 1994, I would say improper grading is one of the more common defects I find.

Improper Slope

When the grading of a lot slopes toward the home, it is called negative slope (or improper slope).  In times of heavy rain or thaw, negative slopes can allow flooding to occur. Even during moderate conditions, water that runs toward the home saturates the ground around the foundation, which over time will damage the foundation with freezing and the natural corrosive properties of water. Saturation around the home also encourages seepage into basements, crawlspaces and even under slab foundation homes. Seepage can rot wood framing and develop harmful mold problems, and cause excessive floor sweating in slab foundation homes, causing the inside flooring to rot, mold & deteriorate.  Water that freezes is extremely powerful and can lift a whole house, causing significant damage.

It would be a mistake to assume that just piling more dirt around the house would solve the problem. Some houses do not have room below the siding to create a positive slope away from the home by adding more dirt. Covering up the siding with earth or landscaping materials could cause more damage could occur with ground moisture rotting the framing of the house. Or in the case of brick, water seeps into the porous brick then freezes, deteriorating the brick.  Having the ground too close to, or in contact with the siding promotes wood destroying insect infestations as well. So, just applying more dirt around the home is not always the best remedy.

Proper grade

The grade away from the home should not be less than 1 inch per foot of the grade for a distance of about 6- 10 feet. If this condition is not possible with the level of the house siding, more serious re-grading and lot swale improvement will need to occur. Sometimes I have inspected homes that were originally built too low on the lot, with elevations that put the house at the bottom of a bowl. Solving these kinds of elevation problems can be expensive and usually involve a landscape engineer.

Routing downspouts

Drain water from gutters far away from the house, making sure the water doesn't run back. It may be necessary to install dry wells or subsurface drains to carry water out to the street or city storm sewer systems. Check annually to ensure the subsurface drains are clear and working properly.

Keep debris away

Debris and grass clippings can retain water and promote seepage and insect infestations.

Sump Pumps

Sump pumps are designed to drain naturally occurring ground water away from the foundation's footer, not necessarily to handle the excessive amount of water run off a normal size roof can shed. If water is permitted to run up against the foundation, the sump pump could be over utilized. If the sump pump fails, the basement or crawlspace could flood pretty quickly. Reliance on your sump pump to effectively discharge the water from a 1/4 acre lot, is well, a little like playing Russian roulette.

Childproofing Your Home - 12 Safety Devices to Protect Your Children   About 2-1/2 million children are injured or killed by hazards in the home each year. The good news is that many of these incidents can be prevented by using simple child safety devices on the market today.

Any safety device you buy should be sturdy enough to prevent injury to your child, yet easy for you to use. It's important to follow installation instructions carefully. In addition, if you have older children in the house, be sure they re-secure safety devices. Remember, too, that no device is completely childproof; determined youngsters have been known to disable them.

You can childproof your home for a fraction of what it would cost to have a professional do it. And safety devices are easy to find. You can buy them at hardware stores, baby equipment shops, supermarkets, drug stores, home and linen stores, and through mail order catalogues.

Here are some child safety devices that can help prevent many injuries to young children. 

1 Use Safety Latches and Locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas to help prevent poisonings and other injuries. Safety latches and locks on cabinets and drawers can help prevent children from gaining access to medicines and household cleaners, as well as knives and other sharp objects.

Look for safety latches and locks that adults can easily install and use, but are sturdy enough to withstand pulls and tugs from children. Safety latches are not a guarantee of protection, but they can make it more difficult for children to reach dangerous substances. Even products with child-resistant packaging should be locked away, out of reach; this packaging is not childproof.

Typical cost of a safety latch or lock: less than $2.

2 Use Safety Gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas. Safety gates can help keep children away from stairs or rooms that have hazards in them. Look for safety gates that children cannot dislodge easily, but that adults can open and close without difficulty. For the top of stairs, gates that screw to the wall are more secure than "pressure gates."

New safety gates that meet safety standards display a certification seal from the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA). If you have an older safety gate, be sure it doesn't have "V" shapes that are large enough for a child's head and neck to fit into.

Typical cost of a safety gate: $13 to $40.

3 Use Door Knob Covers and Door Locks to help prevent children from entering rooms and other areas with possible dangers. Door knob covers and door locks can help keep children away from places with hazards, including swimming pools.

Be sure the door knob cover is sturdy enough not to break, but allows a door to be opened quickly by an adult in case of emergency. By restricting access to potentially hazardous rooms in the home, door knob covers could help prevent many kinds of injuries. To prevent access to swimming pools, door locks should be placed high out of reach of young children. Locks should be used in addition to fences and door alarms. Sliding glass doors, with locks that must be re-secured after each use, are often not an effective barrier to pools.

Typical cost of a door knob cover: $1 and door lock: $5 and up.

4 Use Anti-Scald Devices for faucets and shower heads and set your water heater temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help prevent burns from hot water. Anti-scald devices for regulating water temperature can help prevent burns.

Consider using anti-scald devices for faucets and showerheads. A plumber may need to install these. In addition, if you live in your own home, set water heater temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help prevent burns from hot water.

Typical cost of an anti-scald device: $6 to $30.

5 Use Smoke Detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries.

Check smoke detectors once a month to make sure they're working.   If detectors are battery-operated, change batteries at least once a year or consider using 10-year batteries. Typical cost of a smoke detector: less than $10.   6 Use Window Guards and Safety Netting to help prevent falls from windows, balconies, decks, and landings. Window guards and safety netting for balconies and decks can help prevent serious falls. 

Check these safety devices frequently to make sure they are secure and properly installed and maintained. There should be no more than four inches between the bars of the window guard. If you have window guards, be sure at least one window in each room can be easily used for escape in a fire. Window screens are not effective for preventing children from falling out of windows.

Typical cost of a window guard or safety netting: $8 to $16.

7 Use Corner and Edge Bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges of furniture and fireplaces. Corner and edge bumpers can be used with furniture and fireplace hearths to help prevent injuries from falls or to soften falls against sharp or rough edges.

Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture or hearth edges.

Typical cost of a corner and edge bumper: $1 and up.

8 Use Outlet Covers and Outlet Plates to help prevent electrocution. Outlet covers and outlet plates can help protect children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.

Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.

Typical cost of an outlet cover: less than $2.

9 Use a Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detector outside bedrooms to help prevent CO poisoning. A carbon monoxide (CO) detector can help prevent CO poisoning. Consumers should install CO detectors near sleeping areas in their homes. Households that should use CO detectors include those with gas or oil heat or with attached garages.

Typical cost of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector: $30 to $70.

10 Cut Window Blind Cords; use Safety Tassels and Inner Cord Stops to help prevent children from strangling in blind cord loops. Window blind cord safety tassels on miniblinds and tension devices on vertical blinds and drapery cords can help prevent deaths and injuries from strangulation in the loops of cords. Inner cord stops can help prevent strangulation in the inner cords of window blinds.

For older miniblinds, cut the cord loop, remove the buckle, and put safety tassels on each cord. Be sure that older vertical blinds and drapery cords have tension or tie-down devices to hold the cords tight. When buying new miniblinds, verticals, and draperies, ask for safety features to prevent child strangulation.

11 Use Door Stops and Door Holders to help prevent injuries to fingers and hands. Door stops and door holders on doors and door hinges can help prevent small fingers and hands from being pinched or crushed in doors and door hinges.

Be sure any safety device for doors is easy to use and is not likely to break into small parts, which could be a choking hazard for young children.

Typical cost of a door stop and door holder: less than $4.

12 Use a Cordless Phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they're in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas.

Cordless phones help you watch your child continuously, without leaving the vicinity to answer a phone call. Cordless phones are especially helpful when children are in or near water, whether it's the bathtub, the swimming pool, or the beach.

Typical cost of a cordless phone: $30 and up.

Sellers can speed their home inspection by following these suggestions. The inspection will go smoother, with fewer concerns to delay closing. 

1. Confirm that water, electric and gas service are on, with gas pilot lights burning.
2. Ensure pets won't hinder the inspection. Ideally, they should be removed from premises or secured outside. Tell your agent about any pets at home.
3. Replace burned out bulbs to avoid a "Light is inoperable" report that may suggest an electrical problem.
4. Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and replace dead batteries.
5. Clean or replace dirty HVAC air filters. They should fit securely.
6. Remove stored items, debris and wood from foundation. These may be cited as "conducive conditions" for termites.
7. Remove items blocking access to HVAC equipment, electric service panels, water heaters, attics and crawl spaces.
8. Unlock areas the inspector must access - attic doors or hatches, electric service panels, closets, fence gates and crawl spaces.
9. Trim tree limbs to 10' from the roof and shrubs from the house to allow access.
10. Attend to broken or missing items like doorknobs, locks and latches; windowpanes, screens and locks; gutters, downspouts and chimney caps.

Checking these areas before your home inspection is an investment in selling your property. Your real estate agent will thank you!

Recharge fire extinguishers
Wax and buff wood floors
Professionally clean curtains and drapes
Inspect and touch up interior paint
Inspect exposed plumbing areas for dampness (twice per year)
Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)
Test for carbon monoxide

Perform these projects to maintain your home and possibly lengthen the life span of your home systems. Replace smoke and fire alarm batteries (at least twice per year) Inspect and clean fireplace and chimney Service furnace or other heating system Clean and adjust humidifier on furnace Clean/vacuum heating ducts, grills, and registers Clean upper-story windows (twice per year) Inspect window screens and insulation, and install storm windows Inspect weather-stripping around doors and replace as needed. Cut back any trees or shrubs touching the roof or exterior (twice per year) Clean gutters and inspect downspouts (twice per year) Trim, cover, or bring in outdoor plants as needed Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)

Here are some common terms relevant to home ownership. For a complete list, visit http://www.nachi.org/ and click on Glossary. A/C: An abbreviation for Air Conditioner, Air Conditioning, or Alternating Current. Access Panel: An opening in the wall or ceiling near the fixture that allows access for servicing the plumbing/electrical system. Approach: The area between the sidewalk and the street that leads to a driveway or the transition from the street as you approach a driveway. Awning Window: A window with hinges at the top allowing it to open out and up. Backsplash: A raised integral portion of a wall mount sink or lavatory located at the rear to protect the wall. Baseboard: Usually wood or vinyl installed around the perimeter of a room to cover the space where the wall and floor meet. A board placed against the wall around a room next to the floor to properly finish between the floor and the plaster. Bearing Wall: A wall that supports any vertical load in addition to its own weight. Breeze Way: A roofed, open-sided passageway connecting two structures, such as a house and a garage. Casement Window: A sidehinged window that opens on hinges secured to the side of the window frame. Casing: Molding of various widths and thicknesses used to trim door and window openings at the jambs. Ceiling Joist: One of a series of parallel framing members used to support ceiling loads and supported in turn by larger beams, girders or bearing walls. Also called roof joists. Chair Rail: A molding that runs horizontally along the wall at about 3 feet from the ground. In storefront, window wall, or curtain wall systems, a chair rail is an aluminum extrusion applied horizontally to the inside of the system 3 feet from the floor to create a barrier in floor-to-ceiling glazing applications. Circuit: A network of wiring that typically commences and returns at a panel box, and feeds electricity to outlets. Composite Board: An insulation board which has two different insulation types laminated together in 2 or 3 layers. Compression Valve: A type of valve that works by raising or lowering a stem. Water passes through the valve by turning the faucet handle, which causes the stem to drop or rise. Condensing Unit: The outdoor component of a cooling system. It includes a compressor and condensing coil designed to give off heat. Crawl Space: A shallow open area between the floor of a building and the ground, normally enclosed by the foundation wall. Crown Molding: A molding used on cornice or wherever an interior angle is to be covered. Culvert: Round, corrugated drain pipe (normally 15" or 18" in diameter) that is installed beneath a driveway parallel to and near the street. Deck: An elevated platform. "Deck" is also commonly used to refer to the above-ground floors in multi-level parking garage. Dormer: A converted attic with windows projecting through a sloping roof. Double Hung Window: A window with sashes that slide vertically and allow opening from the top and bottom. Drywall: A gypsum board material used for walls or ceilings. Easement: A formal contract which allows a party to use another party's property for a specific purpose, e.g. a sewer easement might allow one party to run a sewer line through a neighbor's property. Eave: The part of the roof which extends beyond the side wall. Egress: A means of exiting the home. An egress window is required in every bedroom and basement. Normally a 4x4 window is the minimum size required. Energy Efficiency Ratio: An air conditioning efficiency rating system which indicates the number of BTU's delivered per watt of power consumed. Expansive Soils: Earth that swells and contracts depending on the amount of water that is present. Facade: The front of a building. Frequently, in architectural terms an artificial or decorative effort. Fenestration: Any glass panel, window, door, curtain wall or skylight unit on the exterior of a building. Field Measure: To take measurements (cabinets, countertops, stairs, shower doors, etc.) in the home itself instead of using the blueprints. Fitting: A general term that usually refers to faucets, shower valves, tub fillers, or various piping parts such as tees or elbows. Fixture: In plumbing, the devices that provide a supply of water and/or its disposal, e.g. sinks, tubs, toilets. Floor Plan: The basic layout of building or addition, which includes placement of walls, windows and doors as well as dimensions. Footing: The underground support for a foundation or support post. Foundation: The supporting portion of a structure below the first floor construction, or below grade, including the footings.

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Summer
Inspect exposed plumbing areas for dampness (twice per year)
Fix loose or cracked caulking around tiles, sinks, tubs, showers, toilets, and counters
Inspect appliance hoses and ventilation according to owner's manuals
Power wash, repair, refinish, and seal decks, reset any protruding nails
Clean and lubricate sliding-glass-door tracks and window tracks
Lubricate door hinges and locks
Oil garage door(s)
Patch driveway and other concrete, or treat asphalt
Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)