Mold is everywhere-What it is and what to do about it

Mold has received considerable media attention recently, as though this were a new problem. While it's true that mold in homes can be a problem, this is nothing new, and probably not news. However, since there is an increased level of awareness and concern, let's look at the issue from a common sense perspective. I am not a doctor and don't play one on TV, but I have read up on the subject, and I'd like to help if I can.

 What is it?

Mold is a common term for a large family of fungi that have a cottony or wooly appearance. There are nearly a million species of mold. Mold is a naturally occurring organism that has been around far longer than us. Mold grows in buildings where there is moisture, air, a food source, and whenever the temperature is between 40 and 140 degrees F. When conditions for growth are not met, mold becomes dormant; it does not die. Mold spreads by dispersing spores through the air as well as by growth on or within building materials.

Mold plays a key role

We can't eliminate mold, but this is a good thing because we need mold to break down animal and vegetable matter. Mold plays a key role in the food chain. When we say things are rotting or decaying, we are referring to mold at work. If there were no mold, there would be no rot and we'd all be buried under all the leaves and trees that ever fell down but never decayed.

Mold spores are everywhere

People sometimes tell us that they don't have mold in their home. We ask what happens if they leave bread in a drawer for a month or don't take out the garbage for two weeks. This helps them understand that no matter how clean they keep their home, mold spores are always there ready to grow on any favorable host. There are always mold spores in the air and there is always some mold in buildings, so the objective of a "mold-free home" is not realistic.

How dangerous is mold?

Since it is normal for mold to be present in air and in buildings, its mere existence is not necessarily a reason for alarm.   But if mold is present in indoor air at levels higher than would be found in outdoor air, or if a significant mold colony is growing on building surfaces, it could be a cause for concern. People react differently to mold spores.   There does not always have to be a visible growth to cause problems for sensitive people.   The term "toxic" mold is not very accurate, in that mold (in and of itself) does not usually kill people.   It usually causes unpleasant physical irritations and symptoms.   

However, in a recent episode of ABC's "Extreem Makeover- Home Addition", a father of six children died from working in a mold-infested crawlspace. As part of the show, the home was destroyed and the family was built a new home with volunteer labor and the help of ABC.

Media articles about "black mold," especially Stachybotrys, have terrified some people. Actually, it is fairly common to find some black Stachybotrys in very small amounts in houses where there has been leakage or water entry. It is a mold and it should be removed professionally. But don't assume that anything black on the wall or ceiling is "toxic" mold. Other common species are also black but may be of low or no toxicity. For example, Chateomium glabo,S'um is allergenic rather than toxic.

Clado,sporium csphaero,spermum is often found growing indoors on bathroom tile or refrigerator gaskets. It's a member of the most common mold family, Cladosporium, the "universal fungus." Mold in your house might be only a cosmetic concern. "Bluestain" or Ceratocy.s'tis /Ophistoma is common on framing lumber and we often find it in attics on the underside of roof sheathing. Unless one of these cosmetic molds is in a living space, no action is needed.

You can't tell by looking

You cannot tell what kind of mold you are dealing with by looking at it. Don't assume that "black mold" is "bad" and that other mold is OK. Lots of black molds are cosmetic concerns, not "toxic killers." Some light-colored molds, which are hard to see in your house, can be a health concern. Some species of Penicillium and A.spergilli.s' are often light-gray to green, and these are probably more common than their infamous brother " Stachybotry.s' chartarum,"and may be more toxic. Of course, other Penicillium species are used as medicine. So competent identification is important. An expert, trained in microscopic identification of mold, can usually determine the identity of mold from a physical sample. We cannot rely on the naked eye, or on mold color to identify molds.

The home test kits are also not reliable.

The swab, culture, settlement dish, or simple air sample methods these kits use are fundamentally inaccurate: for example, the spores collected and "grown" in culture using these methods could be dead, fail to grow on the culture medium, and still be and irritant if inhaled. These methods are not a reliable way to determine or characterize a possible mold problem in a building.

Keeping mold in its place

Although mold is needed and always with us, we want to keep mold in its place, preferably outdoors.  Wolves are a key part of the food chain too, but we don't want them inside our homes. While we will always have some spores in our homes, the goal is to keep the spores from growing to problem levels.

Prevention is the key

Four things have to be present to have a mold growth:

1. Mold spores

2. Temperatures between 40 and 140 degrees F

3. A moisture source.

4. A food source. This is wood or gypsum board, or that old bread in your bread box.

So, how do we control mold growth?

I. We have said that mold spores are everywhere. So is their food. We can't control those.

2. People are not comfortable in their homes at temperatures below 40 degrees or above 140 degrees, so this is no help.

3. The only thing left is moisture. The best way to prevent mold from growing is to control moisture. This is lucky in a way because controlling moisture is something we want to do in homes anyway.

Mold risk falls into three broad categories:

I. Some mold is harmless, a cosmetic nuisance.

2. Some mold is allergenic to some people, in much the same way some people are allergic to shellfish.

3. "Toxic" mold is dangerous for almost everyone, especially children, old people, and people with respiratory problems or compromised immune systems.

Moisture sources

Sources of moisture in homes include:

1. Leaks into or through roofs walls, door, windows, basements, etc. The leaks that come through usually get corrected quickly. The leaks that stay in walls, for example, often don't get corrected because they are not noticed.

2. Leaks from plumbing or heating systems.

3. High humidity from cooking, bathing etc., resulting in condensation.

4. Air conditioning systems, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, sump pits and other places where moisture is commonly present.

A word of caution

People, who are allergic, asthmatic, infant, elderly (immune-impaired, etc.,) should not disturb mold and should not be in the area where mold remediation is being performed. Consult with your doctor, health department or other professional before tackling this job yourself.

Getting rid of a mold problem - Step One - remove the mold

Most molds can be cleaned up easily with soap, water, with a bleach solution. If the mold species is allergenic and present in large quantity, special procedures are necessary to assure that cleanup is performed safely and to prevent contamination of other building areas or contents.  Specialists with respirators, skin protection and eye protection should be called in to clean up large amounts (more than 2 square feet) of irritant causing type mold.

Getting rid of a mold problem - Step Two - remove the moisture

Once we get rid of the mold, the next step is to remove the moisture source that allowed the mold to grow. Curing leaks, improving drainage and drying things up are important steps in controlling mold.

Maintenance is important

Don't forget to clean your refrigerator, including gaskets, coils, and evaporator tray. Regular furnace and air conditioning service will help ensure that standing water or chronic moisture is not an issue. Gutters and downspouts should be kept clear and leaks should be corrected.

Follow these suggestions to keep mold from growing in your home:

1.Check the exterior of your home regularly for accumulation of ground water. Route water away from the home (this means, routing downspouts and regrading to slope water away).

2. If you ever see bubbling or dampness in a wall, open the wall to see what's causing it.

3. If your house sits above a foundation and there's a heavy rain, put electric fans under the house to dry the ground. Dehumidifying crawlspaces and basements is recommended.

4. Fix leaky faucets, pipes and other leaks as soon as you find them.

5. Have your heating and air conditioning system serviced each year. Keep humidity low in the home during the summer. Do not block crawlspace vent.

6. Clean and dry out wet or damp areas within 48 hours.

7. Keep indoor humidity below 60 percent by venting bathrooms and dryers to the outside (not into the attic or crawlspaces), using air conditioners and dehumidifiers, using exhaust fans or opening windows when cooking, washing dishes or cleaning, and increasing ventilation.

8. If you have a leak that saturates carpet, ceiling tiles, or upholstery, remove them.

9. Use paint that has an EPA-approved mold inhibitor.

10. Clean kitchens and bathrooms with mold-killing cleaners.

11. Don't carpet bathrooms.

12. Don't put vinyl wallpaper on walls that are at risk of sustaining water damage.

Following these simple suggestions can eliminate or greatly reduce the chances of mold in the home. 

The importance of proper grading around the home

Proper grading and draining around a home is one of those things that few people see when shopping for a home, and yet it can have one of the most significant impacts on a homes condition and the health of its occupants. As a professional home inspector, I would say improper grading is one of the more common defects I find.

Improper Slope

When the grading of a lot slopes toward the home, it is called negative slope (or improper slope).  In times of heavy rain or thaw, negative slopes can allow flooding to occur. Even during moderate conditions, water that runs toward the home saturates the ground around the foundation, which over time will damage the foundation with freezing and the natural corrosive properties of water. Saturation around the home also encourages seepage into basements, crawlspaces and even under slab foundation homes. Seepage can rot wood framing and develop harmful mold problems, and cause excessive floor sweating in slab foundation homes, causing the inside flooring to rot, mold & deteriorate.

Water that freezes is extremely powerful and can lift a whole house, causing significant damage.  It would be a mistake to assume that just piling more dirt around the house would solve the problem. Some ouses do not have room below the siding to create a positive slope away from the home by adding more dirt. Covering up the siding with earth or landscaping materials could cause more damage could occur with ground moisture rotting the framing of the house. Or in the case of brick, water seeps into the porous brick then freezes, deteriorating the brick.

Having the ground too close to, or in contact with the siding promotes wood destroying insect infestations as well. So, just applying more dirt around the home is not always the best remedy.

Proper grade

The grade away from the home should not be less than 1 inch per foot of the grade for a distance of about 6-10 feet. If this condition is not possible with the level of the house siding, more serious re-grading and lot swale improvement will need to occur.  Sometimes I have inspected homes that were originally built too low on the lot, with elevations that put the house at the bottom of a bowl. Solving these kinds of elevation problems can be expensive and usually involve a landscape engineer.

Routing downspouts

Drain water from gutters far away from the house, making sure the water doesn't run back. It may be necessary to install dry wells or subsurface drains to carry water out to the street or city storm sewer systems. Check annually to ensure the subsurface drains are clear and working properly.

Keep debris away

Debris and glass clippings can retain water and promote seepage and insect infestations.

Sump Pumps

Sump pumps are designed to drain naturally occurring ground water away from the foundation's footer, not necessarily to handle the excessive amount of water run off a normal size roof can shed. If water is permitted to run up against the foundation, the sump pump could be over utilized. If the sump pump fails, the basement or crawlspace could flood pretty quickly. Reliance on your sump pump to effectively discharge the water from a 1/4 acre lot, is well, a little like playing Russian roulette.

Ah, spring time and thoughts turn to yard cleanup, getting outside and "de-winterizing", golf and other outdoor sports.  With the melting snow, spring rains and such it can also mean wet basements or crawlspaces.  The words are all-too-familiar and many times "blow the deal" between buyers and sellers. But a wet basement or crawlspace does not necessarily mean a significant problem exists. It has been reported that more than ninety-five percent of all houses have had, or will have, basement leakage at some point. If your inspector sites a wet basement or crawlspace, keep a cool head and listen carefully if he or she recommends further investigation.

Identifying the Problem:

The presence of efflorescence, a white powdery mineral deposit on the interior foundation walls, indicates moisture penetration. The severity of the problem, or whether the problem is active, is not indicated by the amount of efflorescence.  In other words, just because a basement has efflorescence or stains does not mean it has a current water seepage problem. Other clues are rusty nails in baseboards, rotted wood near floor level, rusted metal feet on appliances, mold and mildew, lifted floor tiles, storage on skids, peeling paint and the presence of dehumidifiers. One home I was in had three old broken dehumidifiers piled in the corner, kind-of-a-clue the seepage had been there for a while.

Corrective Action:

Poor surface drainage is one of the main causes of basement leaks or seepage. The ground should slope away from the house a rate of one inch per foot for at least the first six feet. The gutters and downspout systems must also drain water six feet away from the foundation. If the downspouts are disconnected, too short, broken or clogged, they should be redirected to discharge water above soil grade at least six feet away from the house.  Also, gutters should be kept clear of debris, otherwise they may leak water around the foundation and into the home.  Downspouts should be placed around the home every 30-40 feet from each other, otherwise a hard rain could overload the downspouts and saturate the soil around the foundation.

Basement stairwells and window wells may allow water to collect. Drains should be provided in the bottom of these.  Where there are no drains, plastic dome covers over the window wells allow light into the basement while minimizing water and snow accumulation.

More Extreme Measures:

In the vast majority of cases, basement seepage is not significant from a structural point of view and can be controlled relatively inexpensively, as discussed above.  Many older stone foundations have been seeping water for over a hundred years and are still in good condition.  However, the presence of foundation cracks, damaged perimeter drainage tiles, a high water table (saturation around the home) or underground streams may call for more extreme corrective measures. These measures are used when chronic flooding occurs.

Sealing foundation cracks can be performed several ways with the cost of repairs varying. The approach taken depends on the specific crack; however, the most successful approach is sealing from the outside (Cost $500 - $900). Urethane or epoxy injection repairs can be done from the interior on poured concrete walls only (cost $300 - $500 per crack). Many companies perform this type of work in northern Illinois and guarantee there work for life.

Excavating, damp-proofing and installing drainage tiles should be used as a last resort. Damp-proofing on the exterior typically involves parging a masonry foundation wall with a one-quarter inch layer of mortar covered with a bituminous or plastic membrane which extends down to the footings. 

The drainage tile laid beside the footing is covered with gravel and filter paper.  These tiles can often be damaged or clogged by roots and some localized repairs may be required.  Because excavating on the exterior is expensive ($8,000 - $15,000 typically), an alternative is an interior drainage system. The cost of this approach is one-third to one quarter the cost of exterior work. There are many cases where this proves satisfactory, although this must be judged on a case by case basis.

Where underground streams and/or a high water table are present, sump pumps are usually required. But for the vast majority of homes built in northeastern Illinois, the lower priced repairs are usually adequate.

Truss uplift is a common phenomenon in homes built with roof truss systems. A truss is a prefabricated roof structure, which holds up the roof decking wood, shingles, and top floor ceiling. They are assembled, usually from 2x4 lumber, in a building material factory. The 2x4's are held together with either metal or plywood "gusset plates".  Trusses tend to be stronger, lighter, and less expensive than rafters. Trusses are strong because they make use of the most efficient geometric shape, the triangle. The outside members of a truss are called chords while the inner pieces are known as webs. Each component is important because they apply pressure onto the other two sides of the triangle, establishing support balance between each other. They are less expensive than rafters because the lumber thickness and lengths are smaller.

WHAT IS TRUSS UPLIFT?

If a house experiences truss uplift, the top floor ceiling literally lifts off the interior walls, usually in the winter, then drops again in the summer. It may appear that the floors or walls have settled, but actually the ceiling has moved up, then down. Sometimes the gap can be as much as an inch where interior walls meet the ceiling. 

Modern construction places the bottom chord of the truss below a deep blanket of insulation.  Even on the coldest days the bottom chord is nice and warm. The top chords however, are above the insulation and get very cold in the well ventilated attic. The bottom chords are warm and dry. As the warm air from the home travels through the top chords they begin to condensate with the cold air of the winter season. It's kind of like the condensation that occurs on the outside of a ice cold glass of water on a hot summer day, only in reverse. As the top chords begin to absorb some moisture from the air, it causes them to elongate, or swell.  With the top chords growing and the bottom chords shrinking, the truss arches up in the middle to account for the pressure differences, thus lifting the truss off the interior walls.

IS THIS A PROBLEM?

From a structural standpoint it is not a major problem. But cosmetically, it may cause cracks and separations in the drywall. A common question clients ask us during the inspection is, "What about those small cracks along the ceiling, aren't those a problem?" Many homeowners "repair" the cracks with drywall compound, only to have them reappear next year.

Some contractors have helped disguise truss uplift by securing the ceiling drywall to the top of the interior walls and not the trusses for 18 inches away from the interior walls. The drywall flexes and stays fastened to the walls while the trusses lift above it. Others use a decorative molding where the walls meet the ceilings. They fasten the moldings to the ceiling but not to the walls. As the ceilings move up, the molding go with the ceiling and cover any gap that may develop. If this molding plan is used in your home, try to decorate with this in mind.

I hope this has helped you in understanding this uplifting experience.

Serious structural problems in houses are not very common, but when they occur they are expensive to repair. Some can't be fixed at all. This report won't turn you into an expert, but it will give you some of the common indicators.

Uneven Floors

Uneven floors are typical, particularly in older homes. Here is a trick to help distinguish between a typical home with character and a structural problem.  If the floor sags to the middle of the home, it's probably just a charming old home.  On the other hand, if the floor slopes toward an outside wall, there is a good chance that the house has significant structural problems.

Leaning House

While no house is perfect, this is one area where you should be very careful. Take a look at the house from across the street. If the house appears to be leaning one way or the other, there may be a structural problem. It may help to line up a front corner of the house with the back corner of an adjacent house just for reference. The corners should be parallel. Stepping back from the house to take a look is always a good idea. It is easy to miss something major by standing too close to it! If there is a lean that is detectable by eye, don't take any chances, get it checked out.

HORIZONTAL FOUNDATION CRACKS ARE BAD

It is not uncommon to find cracks in the foundation, especially poured concrete foundations. This goes for new houses as well as old ones. While there is a great deal of engineering that goes into "reading" these cracks, there is one rule that you should never forget. "Horizontal cracks are a problem". Of course not all vertical cracks are acceptable, but they are generally not as serious as a horizontal crack.

Leaning Walls

A leaning foundation wall is not ideal either, but may not be a significant defect if movement does not appear to be recent. Home Check America inspectors use the 1/3 rule for wall stability.

Harmless Cracks

Poured concrete shrinks as it cures. Shrinkage cracks in a new house are common and can be small vertical cracks or small 45 degree cracks at the basement windows. These cracks are about 1 /8 inch wide or less. They don't affect the structure. The only concern is leakage. If you see small cracks in a new foundation, don't panic. In fact, in a new home, some builders will Pre-crack the foundation and fill the crack with flexible material.

Plaster or Drywall Cracks:

Few things are more misunderstood than plaster or drywall cracks on the inside of the house.

The following crack types are not generally related to structural movement: We call these "stress cracks" or "surface cracks".

• A small crack (less than 1 /8 inch) that follows the corner of the room where two walls meet, or at the ceiling and wall joint.
• Small cracks that extend up from the upper corner of a door opening

The following cracks may be related to structural movement -

• Large cracks (larger than 1 /8 inch in width) or cracks that have deflection (a lip, where one side of the crack is beyond the other side of the crack).
• Cracks that run diagonally across the wall, or in a stair step fashion.
• Cracks on the interior finish that is in the same vicinity as cracks on the exterior of the house.

Structural movement or structural damage cracks can be repaired in a number of ways, such as; building buttresses, pilasters, steel tie-backs, steel channel columns, sister walls, etc. A good inspector can describe these methods to you should the need arise.

I hope this helps new and seasoned home buyers on the issue of cracks in a house. 

With all the new home owners out there, many of them first time buyers, I thought it might be good to let them know which tools every house should have for minor repairs/emergencies.  The list is by no means exhaustive, but does give the new home owner some idea of what to have in their tool box.  Of course, more tools will be added as more and larger projects, or needs increase. 

The following items are essential tools but this list is by no means exhaustive and in no particular order of importance. 

1.  Plunger - A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most disturbing problems that you will face. With a plunger on hand, however, you can usually remedy these troubling plumbing issues relatively quickly. It is best to have two plungers -- one for the sink and one for the toilet. 

2.  Combination Wrench Set - One end of a combination wrench set is open and the other end is a closed loop. Nuts and bolts are manufactured in standard and metric sizes and because both varieties are widely used, so you'll need both sets of wrenches. For the most control and leverage, always pull the wrench toward you, instead of pushing on it. Also, avoid over-tightening.

3.  Slip-Joint Pliers - Use slip-joint pliers to grab hold of a nail, a nut, a bolt, and much more. These types of pliers are versatile because of the jaws, which feature both flat and curved areas for gripping many types of objects. There is also a built-in slip-joint, which allows the user to quickly adjust the jaw size to suit most tasks.

4.  Adjustable Wrench - Adjustable wrenches are somewhat awkward to use and can damage a bolt or nut if they are not handled properly. However, adjustable wrenches are ideal for situations where you need two wrenches of the same size. Screw the jaws all the way closed to avoid damaging the bolt or nut.

5.  Caulking Gun - Caulking is the process of sealing up cracks and gaps in various structures and certain types of piping. Caulking can provide noise mitigation and thermal insulation, and control water penetration. Caulk should be applied only to areas that are clean and dry.  

6.  Flashlight -  None of the tools in this list is of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem, and solution, are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy.  

7.  Tape Measure - Measuring house projects requires a tape measure, not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although 25 feet is best.  Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy.   

8.  Hacksaw - These are great for cutting metal objects such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Hacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they'll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame.
 
9. Torpedo Level - Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal or vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in viewfinder must be exactly in the middle, not merely close.

10.  Safety Glasses / Goggles - For all tasks involving a hammer or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals.

11.  Claw Hammer - A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own.  Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice.

12.  Screwdriver Set - It is best to have four screwdrivers: a small and large version of both a flat-head and a Phillips- head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers are sometimes convenient, but they're no substitute.  Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they are less likely to damage the screw. 

13.  Wire Cutters - Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails. The "side-cutting" (unlike the stronger "end-cutting" style) style is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails.

14.  Respirator / Safety Mask - While paints and other coatings have become less toxic (and lead-free) over time, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally getting them in your lungs. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty or dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not not stop. 

15.  Duct Tape - This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it's one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it is water-resistant and extremely sticky.  

 In summary, the above is a list of tools that every homeowner should have. 

Get It Together With These 3 Tips
by Terri Cooper
www.realestatemastery.com.au
 
Tip Number One: Copy Someone Who's Already Getting the Results You Want
 
As the saying goes: "Success leaves Clues!"The great thing is that to be incredibly successful in real estate, you don't need to re-invent the wheel!
 
Agents who are consistently making huge commissions right now, have left clues to their success. If you were to study the top real estate performers, you would notice strong consistencies:
 
These top agents regard themselves as C.E.O.s of their own company. They might work under a franchise banner but they take full responsibility for what happens each day in their business.
 
They think in terms of solutions rather than problems; of opportunities rather than obstacles. Their motto could be: "If it's to be, it's up to me".
 
They take credit for their successes and learn from their mistakes. They look on everything as feedback and use this feedback as fuel to propel them forward.
 
Look for a coach, look for a mentor, look around you in your own office, your suburb and even further afield. You will find that if you are serious and committed, the top agents will always have time to show you the ropes, the clues to their own success.
 
Tip Number Two: Get a Plan
 
Take time-out to work "ON" not "IN" your business. Use a friend, a coach, use anyone you know who can help you to clearly articulate your goals. Work out what you would like to earn, how long you want it to take, and the steps you need to take to make this happen. This more than anything will move you forward and will give you the motivation you need to take the necessary action steps to be hugely successful.
 
Real estate is a numbers game. If you do the right things often enough and consistently enough, you will succeed, it is as simple as that. But you will not succeed if you have no plan. The most exciting thing happens when the goals are your own -- the most important person they benefit is YOU. Your Principal is there to help you and share knowledge, but in the end, it is you and you alone who are responsible for setting your targets and planning your future.
 
Have a business plan which shows you exactly how much you want to earn this year and exactly how you need to go about it. How many appraisals, how many listing appointments, how many sales etc.?  The actual targets are not half as frightening as you think they might be - the most frightening thing is the unknown. This process will clarify your thinking, and keep you on track when things don't go according to plan. As I said earlier, real estate is a numbers game. As long as you focus only on the numbers you will move forward.
 
Tip Number Three: Get Over It
 
The last lesson in this mini-series is such an important one for me to share with you. When I first entered the world of real estate sales, this was one of the most important pieces of advice that I received.  Everyone is only human - when things don't work out, yes you may get angry, you may feel disappointed and let-down, but the important thing is to give yourself only a limited time to wallow.
 
You must let it go and move on, otherwise this industry will kill your joy and turn you into a walking bundle of stress (which will not endear you to your clients I can tell you!)
 
So, to recap: You will be guaranteed of making more sales when you: Consistently model the attitudes and habits of top performers, Get a clear plan, a clear direction with action steps to achieve your goals, and then Continually practice the attitude of being in the moment, learning from the past, but letting go of the disappointments and creating the future as you want it to be!

I'm seeking some response to everyone's feelings on Pre-listing or seller inspections. In this troubled market I think every advantage should be taken for individuals to sell their house.  I have performed these types of inspections and have met with some success for the seller.  Percentage wise, I have about a 60/40 split on it's success (60% selling).  On the homes that did sell, of which the seller did correct issues with the house for better showing, the seller did think the inspection and report was worthwhile and did help with the marketing of the house.  On those that did not sell, the sellers did not correct issues, and didn't use the report as a marketing tool. 

What is everybody's opinion on the concept of Pre-listing/Seller inspections?   The advantages to the buyer are:

• The inspection is done already.
• The inspection is paid for by the seller.
• The report provides a more accurate, third-party view of the condition of the home prior to making an offer.
• A seller inspection eliminates surprise defects.
• Problems are corrected or at least acknowledged prior to making an offer on the home.
• A seller inspection reduces the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• The report might assist in acquiring financing.
• A seller inspection allows the buyer to sweeten the offer without increasing the offering price by waiving inspections.

The advantages to the seller and Realtor:

• The seller can choose an inspector of their choice Home Check America for one, rather than be at the mercy of the buyer's choice of inspector.
• The seller can schedule the inspections at the seller's convenience.
• It might alert the seller of any items of immediate personal concern, such as radon gas or active termite infestation.
• The seller can assist the inspector during the inspection, something normally not done during a buyer's inspection.
• The seller can have the inspector correct any misstatements in the inspection report before it is generated.
• The report can help the seller realistically price the home if problems exist.
• The report can help the seller substantiate a higher asking price if problems don't exist or have been corrected.
• A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which:
  • might make the home show better.
  • gives the seller time to make repairs and shop for competitive contractors.
  • permits the seller to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report.
  • removes over-inflated buyer procured estimates from the negotiation table.
• The report might alert the seller to any immediate safety issues found, before agents and visitors tour the home.
• The report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to potential buyers.
• A seller inspection permits a clean home inspection report to be used as a marketing tool.
• A seller inspection is the ultimate gesture in forthrightness on the part of the seller.
• The report might relieve a prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
• A seller inspection lightens negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• The report might encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
• The deal is less likely to fall apart the way they often do when a buyer's inspection unexpectedly reveals a problem, last minute.
• The report provides full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

Let's discuss and see where this idea goes shall we?

Recently I sat down with a very successful business person, at my request, to talk about how to become even more successful in business.   While I am acquainted with and admire many successful business people in my area, I really wanted to discuss the dynamics of being successful from this one successful person who started from scratch.  Not an individual who worked themselves up the ladder of good organizations. 

As we talked and enjoyed our lunch, I asked what was his one true key to success, if there is only one?  His reply was short, simple, and made great sense.  His reply - "Under promise and over produce"!  Whether that promise involves putting in long hours, learning a new skill, gaining knowledge about client needs, or various other concepts/ideas.  Make your customer #1 so he doesn't go anywhere else for that type of business.  Of course, he expanded upon this concept with dealings he had starting out and continuing to this day.

Makes sense doesn't it: under promise -over produce!  We have met many through our dealings who over promised and under produced when we needed or wanted their product or service.  Think back on those experiences and remember how it made us feel.  Not like we were their number one priority did it?  What would we have done different?  How would we have made the situation right?  How could we under promise and over produce?   

How do we under promise and over produce?  Here are just a few examples, but don't stop there:

1. Do not create a deadline for your efforts that you know is unreasonable and unattainable. 
2. Know your strengths and weaknesses.  Improve upon both!
3. Don't be afraid to ask for assistance from others around you.
4. Learn a skill or gain knowledge that can enhance your services to your clients.
5. Set attainable goals for you, your client and the transaction.
6. Deliver on your promise way before it is due!
7. Give outstanding service.

These are some tough times we are going through.  Standing out from the rest is what will make us successful and be the individual people run to for your services; not the person they run from.