Denny McAuley's Blog

Mold is everywhere: What it is and what to do about it.

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Tue, 06 Apr 2010 13:46:09 -0700

Mold is everywhere-What it is and what to do about it

Mold has received considerable media attention recently, as though this were a new problem. While it's true that mold in homes can be a problem, this is nothing new, and probably not news. However, since there is an increased level of awareness and concern, let's look at the issue from a common sense perspective. I am not a doctor and don't play one on TV, but I have read up on the subject, and I'd like to help if I can.

What is it?

Mold is a common term for a large family of fungi that have a cottony or wooly appearance. There are nearly a million species of mold. Mold is a naturally occurring organism that has been around far longer than us. Mold grows in buildings where there is moisture, air, a food source, and whenever the temperature is between 40 and 140 degrees F. When conditions for growth are not met, mold becomes dormant; it does not die. Mold spreads by dispersing spores through the air as well as by growth on or within building materials.

Mold plays a key role

We can't eliminate mold, but this is a good thing because we need mold to break down animal and vegetable matter. Mold plays a key role in the food chain. When we say things are rotting or decaying, we are referring to mold at work. If there were no mold, there would be no rot and we'd all be buried under all the leaves and trees that ever fell down but never decayed.

Mold spores are everywhere

People sometimes tell us that they don't have mold in their home. We ask what happens if they leave bread in a drawer for a month or don't take out the garbage for two weeks. This helps them understand that no matter how clean they keep their home, mold spores are always there ready to grow on any favorable host. There are always mold spores in the air and there is always some mold in buildings, so the objective of a "mold-free home" is not realistic.

How dangerous is mold?

Since it is normal for mold to be present in air and in buildings, its mere existence is not necessarily a reason for alarm. But if mold is present in indoor air at levels higher than would be found in outdoor air, or if a significant mold colony is growing on building surfaces, it could be a cause for concern. People react differently to mold spores. There does not always have to be a visible growth to cause problems for sensitive people. The term "toxic" mold is not very accurate, in that mold (in and of itself) does not usually kill people. It usually causes unpleasant physical irritations and symptoms.

However, in a recent episode of ABC's "Extreem Makeover- Home Addition", a father of six children died from working in a mold-infested crawlspace. As part of the show, the home was destroyed and the family was built a new home with volunteer labor and the help of ABC.

Media articles about "black mold," especially Stachybotrys, have terrified some people. Actually, it is fairly common to find some black Stachybotrys in very small amounts in houses where there has been leakage or water entry. It is a mold and it should be removed professionally. But don't assume that anything black on the wall or ceiling is "toxic" mold. Other common species are also black but may be of low or no toxicity. For example, Chateomium glabo,S'um is allergenic rather than toxic.

Clado,sporium csphaero,spermum is often found growing indoors on bathroom tile or refrigerator gaskets. It's a member of the most common mold family, Cladosporium, the "universal fungus." Mold in your house might be only a cosmetic concern. "Bluestain" or Ceratocy.s'tis /Ophistoma is common on framing lumber and we often find it in attics on the underside of roof sheathing. Unless one of these cosmetic molds is in a living space, no action is needed.

You can't tell by looking

You cannot tell what kind of mold you are dealing with by looking at it. Don't assume that "black mold" is "bad" and that other mold is OK. Lots of black molds are cosmetic concerns, not "toxic killers." Some light-colored molds, which are hard to see in your house, can be a health concern. Some species of Penicillium and A.spergilli.s' are often light-gray to green, and these are probably more common than their infamous brother " Stachybotry.s' chartarum,"and may be more toxic. Of course, other Penicillium species are used as medicine. So competent identification is important. An expert, trained in microscopic identification of mold, can usually determine the identity of mold from a physical sample. We cannot rely on the naked eye, or on mold color to identify molds.

The home test kits are also not reliable.

The swab, culture, settlement dish, or simple air sample methods these kits use are fundamentally inaccurate: for example, the spores collected and "grown" in culture using these methods could be dead, fail to grow on the culture medium, and still be and irritant if inhaled. These methods are not a reliable way to determine or characterize a possible mold problem in a building.

Keeping mold in its place

Although mold is needed and always with us, we want to keep mold in its place, preferably outdoors. Wolves are a key part of the food chain too, but we don't want them inside our homes. While we will always have some spores in our homes, the goal is to keep the spores from growing to problem levels.

Prevention is the key

Four things have to be present to have a mold growth:

1. Mold spores

2. Temperatures between 40 and 140 degrees F

3. A moisture source.

4. A food source. This is wood or gypsum board, or that old bread in your bread box.

So, how do we control mold growth?

I. We have said that mold spores are everywhere. So is their food. We can't control those.

2. People are not comfortable in their homes at temperatures below 40 degrees or above 140 degrees, so this is no help.

3. The only thing left is moisture. The best way to prevent mold from growing is to control moisture. This is lucky in a way because controlling moisture is something we want to do in homes anyway.

Mold risk falls into three broad categories:

I. Some mold is harmless, a cosmetic nuisance.

2. Some mold is allergenic to some people, in much the same way some people are allergic to shellfish.

3. "Toxic" mold is dangerous for almost everyone, especially children, old people, and people with respiratory problems or compromised immune systems.

Moisture sources

Sources of moisture in homes include:

1. Leaks into or through roofs walls, door, windows, basements, etc. The leaks that come through usually get corrected quickly. The leaks that stay in walls, for example, often don't get corrected because they are not noticed.

2. Leaks from plumbing or heating systems.

3. High humidity from cooking, bathing etc., resulting in condensation.

4. Air conditioning systems, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, sump pits and other places where moisture is commonly present.

A word of caution

People, who are allergic, asthmatic, infant, elderly (immune-impaired, etc.,) should not disturb mold and should not be in the area where mold remediation is being performed. Consult with your doctor, health department or other professional before tackling this job yourself.

Getting rid of a mold problem - Step One - remove the mold

Most molds can be cleaned up easily with soap, water, with a bleach solution. If the mold species is allergenic and present in large quantity, special procedures are necessary to assure that cleanup is performed safely and to prevent contamination of other building areas or contents. Specialists with respirators, skin protection and eye protection should be called in to clean up large amounts (more than 2 square feet) of irritant causing type mold.

Getting rid of a mold problem - Step Two - remove the moisture

Once we get rid of the mold, the next step is to remove the moisture source that allowed the mold to grow. Curing leaks, improving drainage and drying things up are important steps in controlling mold.

Maintenance is important

Don't forget to clean your refrigerator, including gaskets, coils, and evaporator tray. Regular furnace and air conditioning service will help ensure that standing water or chronic moisture is not an issue. Gutters and downspouts should be kept clear and leaks should be corrected.

Twelve tips for reducing mold.

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:03:50 -0800

Follow these suggestions to keep mold from growing in your home:

1.Check the exterior of your home regularly for accumulation of ground water. Route water away from the home (this means, routing downspouts and regrading to slope water away).

2. If you ever see bubbling or dampness in a wall, open the wall to see what's causing it.

3. If your house sits above a foundation and there's a heavy rain, put electric fans under the house to dry the ground. Dehumidifying crawlspaces and basements is recommended.

4. Fix leaky faucets, pipes and other leaks as soon as you find them.

5. Have your heating and air conditioning system serviced each year. Keep humidity low in the home during the summer. Do not block crawlspace vent.

6. Clean and dry out wet or damp areas within 48 hours.

7. Keep indoor humidity below 60 percent by venting bathrooms and dryers to the outside (not into the attic or crawlspaces), using air conditioners and dehumidifiers, using exhaust fans or opening windows when cooking, washing dishes or cleaning, and increasing ventilation.

8. If you have a leak that saturates carpet, ceiling tiles, or upholstery, remove them.

9. Use paint that has an EPA-approved mold inhibitor.

10. Clean kitchens and bathrooms with mold-killing cleaners.

11. Don't carpet bathrooms.

12. Don't put vinyl wallpaper on walls that are at risk of sustaining water damage.

Following these simple suggestions can eliminate or greatly reduce the chances of mold in the home.

MAKING THE GRADE

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:59:50 -0800

The importance of proper grading around the home

Proper grading and draining around a home is one of those things that few people see when shopping for a home, and yet it can have one of the most significant impacts on a homes condition and the health of its occupants. As a professional home inspector, I would say improper grading is one of the more common defects I find.

Improper Slope

When the grading of a lot slopes toward the home, it is called negative slope (or improper slope). In times of heavy rain or thaw, negative slopes can allow flooding to occur. Even during moderate conditions, water that runs toward the home saturates the ground around the foundation, which over time will damage the foundation with freezing and the natural corrosive properties of water. Saturation around the home also encourages seepage into basements, crawlspaces and even under slab foundation homes. Seepage can rot wood framing and develop harmful mold problems, and cause excessive floor sweating in slab foundation homes, causing the inside flooring to rot, mold & deteriorate.

Water that freezes is extremely powerful and can lift a whole house, causing significant damage. It would be a mistake to assume that just piling more dirt around the house would solve the problem. Some ouses do not have room below the siding to create a positive slope away from the home by adding more dirt. Covering up the siding with earth or landscaping materials could cause more damage could occur with ground moisture rotting the framing of the house. Or in the case of brick, water seeps into the porous brick then freezes, deteriorating the brick.

Having the ground too close to, or in contact with the siding promotes wood destroying insect infestations as well. So, just applying more dirt around the home is not always the best remedy.

Proper grade

The grade away from the home should not be less than 1 inch per foot of the grade for a distance of about 6-10 feet. If this condition is not possible with the level of the house siding, more serious re-grading and lot swale improvement will need to occur. Sometimes I have inspected homes that were originally built too low on the lot, with elevations that put the house at the bottom of a bowl. Solving these kinds of elevation problems can be expensive and usually involve a landscape engineer.

Routing downspouts

Drain water from gutters far away from the house, making sure the water doesn't run back. It may be necessary to install dry wells or subsurface drains to carry water out to the street or city storm sewer systems. Check annually to ensure the subsurface drains are clear and working properly.

Keep debris away

Debris and glass clippings can retain water and promote seepage and insect infestations.

Sump Pumps

Sump pumps are designed to drain naturally occurring ground water away from the foundation's footer, not necessarily to handle the excessive amount of water run off a normal size roof can shed. If water is permitted to run up against the foundation, the sump pump could be over utilized. If the sump pump fails, the basement or crawlspace could flood pretty quickly. Reliance on your sump pump to effectively discharge the water from a 1/4 acre lot, is well, a little like playing Russian roulette.

Wet Basements

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 11:18:17 -0800

Ah, spring time and thoughts turn to yard cleanup, getting outside and "de-winterizing", golf and other outdoor sports. With the melting snow, spring rains and such it can also mean wet basements or crawlspaces. The words are all-too-familiar and many times "blow the deal" between buyers and sellers. But a wet basement or crawlspace does not necessarily mean a significant problem exists. It has been reported that more than ninety-five percent of all houses have had, or will have, basement leakage at some point. If your inspector sites a wet basement or crawlspace, keep a cool head and listen carefully if he or she recommends further investigation.

Identifying the Problem:

The presence of efflorescence, a white powdery mineral deposit on the interior foundation walls, indicates moisture penetration. The severity of the problem, or whether the problem is active, is not indicated by the amount of efflorescence. In other words, just because a basement has efflorescence or stains does not mean it has a current water seepage problem. Other clues are rusty nails in baseboards, rotted wood near floor level, rusted metal feet on appliances, mold and mildew, lifted floor tiles, storage on skids, peeling paint and the presence of dehumidifiers. One home I was in had three old broken dehumidifiers piled in the corner, kind-of-a-clue the seepage had been there for a while.

Corrective Action:

Poor surface drainage is one of the main causes of basement leaks or seepage. The ground should slope away from the house a rate of one inch per foot for at least the first six feet. The gutters and downspout systems must also drain water six feet away from the foundation. If the downspouts are disconnected, too short, broken or clogged, they should be redirected to discharge water above soil grade at least six feet away from the house. Also, gutters should be kept clear of debris, otherwise they may leak water around the foundation and into the home. Downspouts should be placed around the home every 30-40 feet from each other, otherwise a hard rain could overload the downspouts and saturate the soil around the foundation.

Basement stairwells and window wells may allow water to collect. Drains should be provided in the bottom of these. Where there are no drains, plastic dome covers over the window wells allow light into the basement while minimizing water and snow accumulation.

More Extreme Measures:

In the vast majority of cases, basement seepage is not significant from a structural point of view and can be controlled relatively inexpensively, as discussed above. Many older stone foundations have been seeping water for over a hundred years and are still in good condition. However, the presence of foundation cracks, damaged perimeter drainage tiles, a high water table (saturation around the home) or underground streams may call for more extreme corrective measures. These measures are used when chronic flooding occurs.

Sealing foundation cracks can be performed several ways with the cost of repairs varying. The approach taken depends on the specific crack; however, the most successful approach is sealing from the outside (Cost $500 - $900). Urethane or epoxy injection repairs can be done from the interior on poured concrete walls only (cost $300 - $500 per crack). Many companies perform this type of work in northern Illinois and guarantee there work for life.

Excavating, damp-proofing and installing drainage tiles should be used as a last resort. Damp-proofing on the exterior typically involves parging a masonry foundation wall with a one-quarter inch layer of mortar covered with a bituminous or plastic membrane which extends down to the footings.

The drainage tile laid beside the footing is covered with gravel and filter paper. These tiles can often be damaged or clogged by roots and some localized repairs may be required. Because excavating on the exterior is expensive ($8,000 - $15,000 typically), an alternative is an interior drainage system. The cost of this approach is one-third to one quarter the cost of exterior work. There are many cases where this proves satisfactory, although this must be judged on a case by case basis.

Where underground streams and/or a high water table are present, sump pumps are usually required. But for the vast majority of homes built in northeastern Illinois, the lower priced repairs are usually adequate.

AN UPLIFTING EXPERIENCE

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:23:02 -0800

An uplifting experience- Explaining Truss Uplift

Truss uplift is a common phenomenon in homes built with roof truss systems. A truss is a prefabricated roof structure, which holds up the roof decking wood, shingles, and top floor ceiling. They are assembled, usually from 2x4 lumber, in a building material factory. The 2x4's are held together with either metal or plywood "gusset plates". Trusses tend to be stronger, lighter, and less expensive than rafters. Trusses are strong because they make use of the most efficient geometric shape, the triangle. The outside members of a truss are called chords while the inner pieces are known as webs. Each component is important because they apply pressure onto the other two sides of the triangle, establishing support balance between each other. They are less expensive than rafters because the lumber thickness and lengths are smaller.

WHAT IS TRUSS UPLIFT?

If a house experiences truss uplift, the top floor ceiling literally lifts off the interior walls, usually in the winter, then drops again in the summer. It may appear that the floors or walls have settled, but actually the ceiling has moved up, then down. Sometimes the gap can be as much as an inch where interior walls meet the ceiling.

Modern construction places the bottom chord of the truss below a deep blanket of insulation. Even on the coldest days the bottom chord is nice and warm. The top chords however, are above the insulation and get very cold in the well ventilated attic. The bottom chords are warm and dry. As the warm air from the home travels through the top chords they begin to condensate with the cold air of the winter season. It's kind of like the condensation that occurs on the outside of a ice cold glass of water on a hot summer day, only in reverse. As the top chords begin to absorb some moisture from the air, it causes them to elongate, or swell. With the top chords growing and the bottom chords shrinking, the truss arches up in the middle to account for the pressure differences, thus lifting the truss off the interior walls.

IS THIS A PROBLEM?

From a structural standpoint it is not a major problem. But cosmetically, it may cause cracks and separations in the drywall. A common question clients ask us during the inspection is, "What about those small cracks along the ceiling, aren't those a problem?" Many homeowners "repair" the cracks with drywall compound, only to have them reappear next year.

Some contractors have helped disguise truss uplift by securing the ceiling drywall to the top of the interior walls and not the trusses for 18 inches away from the interior walls. The drywall flexes and stays fastened to the walls while the trusses lift above it. Others use a decorative molding where the walls meet the ceilings. They fasten the moldings to the ceiling but not to the walls. As the ceilings move up, the molding go with the ceiling and cover any gap that may develop. If this molding plan is used in your home, try to decorate with this in mind.

I hope this has helped you in understanding this uplifting experience.

Wall cracks and other structural nuances

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:17:26 -0800

Serious structural problems in houses are not very common, but when they occur they are expensive to repair. Some can't be fixed at all. This report won't turn you into an expert, but it will give you some of the common indicators.

Uneven Floors

Uneven floors are typical, particularly in older homes. Here is a trick to help distinguish between a typical home with character and a structural problem. If the floor sags to the middle of the home, it's probably just a charming old home. On the other hand, if the floor slopes toward an outside wall, there is a good chance that the house has significant structural problems.

Leaning House

While no house is perfect, this is one area where you should be very careful. Take a look at the house from across the street. If the house appears to be leaning one way or the other, there may be a structural problem. It may help to line up a front corner of the house with the back corner of an adjacent house just for reference. The corners should be parallel. Stepping back from the house to take a look is always a good idea. It is easy to miss something major by standing too close to it! If there is a lean that is detectable by eye, don't take any chances, get it checked out.

HORIZONTAL FOUNDATION CRACKS ARE BAD

It is not uncommon to find cracks in the foundation, especially poured concrete foundations. This goes for new houses as well as old ones. While there is a great deal of engineering that goes into "reading" these cracks, there is one rule that you should never forget. "Horizontal cracks are a problem". Of course not all vertical cracks are acceptable, but they are generally not as serious as a horizontal crack.

Leaning Walls

A leaning foundation wall is not ideal either, but may not be a significant defect if movement does not appear to be recent. Home Check America inspectors use the 1/3 rule for wall stability.

Harmless Cracks

Poured concrete shrinks as it cures. Shrinkage cracks in a new house are common and can be small vertical cracks or small 45 degree cracks at the basement windows. These cracks are about 1 /8 inch wide or less. They don't affect the structure. The only concern is leakage. If you see small cracks in a new foundation, don't panic. In fact, in a new home, some builders will Pre-crack the foundation and fill the crack with flexible material.

Plaster or Drywall Cracks:

Few things are more misunderstood than plaster or drywall cracks on the inside of the house.

The following crack types are not generally related to structural movement: We call these "stress cracks" or "surface cracks".

A small crack (less than 1 /8 inch) that follows the corner of the room where two walls meet, or at the ceiling and wall joint.
Small cracks that extend up from the upper corner of a door opening

The following cracks may be related to structural movement -

Large cracks (larger than 1 /8 inch in width) or cracks that have deflection (a lip, where one side of the crack is beyond the other side of the crack).
Cracks that run diagonally across the wall, or in a stair step fashion.
Cracks on the interior finish that is in the same vicinity as cracks on the exterior of the house.

Structural movement or structural damage cracks can be repaired in a number of ways, such as; building buttresses, pilasters, steel tie-backs, steel channel columns, sister walls, etc. A good inspector can describe these methods to you should the need arise.

I hope this helps new and seasoned home buyers on the issue of cracks in a house.

15 Tools That Every Homeowner Should Own

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Mon, 28 Dec 2009 19:36:10 -0800

With all the new home owners out there, many of them first time buyers, I thought it might be good to let them know which tools every house should have for minor repairs/emergencies. The list is by no means exhaustive, but does give the new home owner some idea of what to have in their tool box. Of course, more tools will be added as more and larger projects, or needs increase.

The following items are essential tools but this list is by no means exhaustive and in no particular order of importance.

1. Plunger - A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most disturbing problems that you will face. With a plunger on hand, however, you can usually remedy these troubling plumbing issues relatively quickly. It is best to have two plungers -- one for the sink and one for the toilet.

2. Combination Wrench Set - One end of a combination wrench set is open and the other end is a closed loop. Nuts and bolts are manufactured in standard and metric sizes and because both varieties are widely used, so you'll need both sets of wrenches. For the most control and leverage, always pull the wrench toward you, instead of pushing on it. Also, avoid over-tightening.

3. Slip-Joint Pliers - Use slip-joint pliers to grab hold of a nail, a nut, a bolt, and much more. These types of pliers are versatile because of the jaws, which feature both flat and curved areas for gripping many types of objects. There is also a built-in slip-joint, which allows the user to quickly adjust the jaw size to suit most tasks.

4. Adjustable Wrench - Adjustable wrenches are somewhat awkward to use and can damage a bolt or nut if they are not handled properly. However, adjustable wrenches are ideal for situations where you need two wrenches of the same size. Screw the jaws all the way closed to avoid damaging the bolt or nut.

5. Caulking Gun - Caulking is the process of sealing up cracks and gaps in various structures and certain types of piping. Caulking can provide noise mitigation and thermal insulation, and control water penetration. Caulk should be applied only to areas that are clean and dry.

6. Flashlight - None of the tools in this list is of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem, and solution, are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy.

7. Tape Measure - Measuring house projects requires a tape measure, not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although 25 feet is best. Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy.

8. Hacksaw - These are great for cutting metal objects such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Hacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they'll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame.

9. Torpedo Level - Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal or vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in viewfinder must be exactly in the middle, not merely close.

10. Safety Glasses / Goggles - For all tasks involving a hammer or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals.

11. Claw Hammer - A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own. Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice.

12. Screwdriver Set - It is best to have four screwdrivers: a small and large version of both a flat-head and a Phillips- head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers are sometimes convenient, but they're no substitute. Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they are less likely to damage the screw.

13. Wire Cutters - Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails. The "side-cutting" (unlike the stronger "end-cutting" style) style is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails.

14. Respirator / Safety Mask - While paints and other coatings have become less toxic (and lead-free) over time, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally getting them in your lungs. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty or dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not not stop.

15. Duct Tape - This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it's one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it is water-resistant and extremely sticky.

In summary, the above is a list of tools that every homeowner should have.

Get It Together With These 3 Tips

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 09:02:52 -0800

Get It Together With These 3 Tips
by Terri Cooper
www.realestatemastery.com.au

Tip Number One: Copy Someone Who's Already Getting the Results You Want

As the saying goes: "Success leaves Clues!"The great thing is that to be incredibly successful in real estate, you don't need to re-invent the wheel!

Agents who are consistently making huge commissions right now, have left clues to their success. If you were to study the top real estate performers, you would notice strong consistencies:

These top agents regard themselves as C.E.O.s of their own company. They might work under a franchise banner but they take full responsibility for what happens each day in their business.

They think in terms of solutions rather than problems; of opportunities rather than obstacles. Their motto could be: "If it's to be, it's up to me".

They take credit for their successes and learn from their mistakes. They look on everything as feedback and use this feedback as fuel to propel them forward.

Look for a coach, look for a mentor, look around you in your own office, your suburb and even further afield. You will find that if you are serious and committed, the top agents will always have time to show you the ropes, the clues to their own success.

Tip Number Two: Get a Plan

Take time-out to work "ON" not "IN" your business. Use a friend, a coach, use anyone you know who can help you to clearly articulate your goals. Work out what you would like to earn, how long you want it to take, and the steps you need to take to make this happen. This more than anything will move you forward and will give you the motivation you need to take the necessary action steps to be hugely successful.

Real estate is a numbers game. If you do the right things often enough and consistently enough, you will succeed, it is as simple as that. But you will not succeed if you have no plan. The most exciting thing happens when the goals are your own -- the most important person they benefit is YOU. Your Principal is there to help you and share knowledge, but in the end, it is you and you alone who are responsible for setting your targets and planning your future.

Have a business plan which shows you exactly how much you want to earn this year and exactly how you need to go about it. How many appraisals, how many listing appointments, how many sales etc.? The actual targets are not half as frightening as you think they might be - the most frightening thing is the unknown. This process will clarify your thinking, and keep you on track when things don't go according to plan. As I said earlier, real estate is a numbers game. As long as you focus only on the numbers you will move forward.

Tip Number Three: Get Over It

The last lesson in this mini-series is such an important one for me to share with you. When I first entered the world of real estate sales, this was one of the most important pieces of advice that I received. Everyone is only human - when things don't work out, yes you may get angry, you may feel disappointed and let-down, but the important thing is to give yourself only a limited time to wallow.

You must let it go and move on, otherwise this industry will kill your joy and turn you into a walking bundle of stress (which will not endear you to your clients I can tell you!)

So, to recap: You will be guaranteed of making more sales when you: Consistently model the attitudes and habits of top performers, Get a clear plan, a clear direction with action steps to achieve your goals, and then Continually practice the attitude of being in the moment, learning from the past, but letting go of the disappointments and creating the future as you want it to be!

Pre-listing/Seller Inspections, What Say You?

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Tue, 13 Jan 2009 11:24:09 -0800

I'm seeking some response to everyone's feelings on Pre-listing or seller inspections. In this troubled market I think every advantage should be taken for individuals to sell their house. I have performed these types of inspections and have met with some success for the seller. Percentage wise, I have about a 60/40 split on it's success (60% selling). On the homes that did sell, of which the seller did correct issues with the house for better showing, the seller did think the inspection and report was worthwhile and did help with the marketing of the house. On those that did not sell, the sellers did not correct issues, and didn't use the report as a marketing tool.

What is everybody's opinion on the concept of Pre-listing/Seller inspections? The advantages to the buyer are:

The inspection is done already.
The inspection is paid for by the seller.
The report provides a more accurate, third-party view of the condition of the home prior to making an offer.
A seller inspection eliminates surprise defects.
Problems are corrected or at least acknowledged prior to making an offer on the home.
A seller inspection reduces the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
The report might assist in acquiring financing.
A seller inspection allows the buyer to sweeten the offer without increasing the offering price by waiving inspections.

The advantages to the seller and Realtor:

The seller can choose an inspector of their choice Home Check America for one, rather than be at the mercy of the buyer's choice of inspector.
The seller can schedule the inspections at the seller's convenience.
It might alert the seller of any items of immediate personal concern, such as radon gas or active termite infestation.
The seller can assist the inspector during the inspection, something normally not done during a buyer's inspection.
The seller can have the inspector correct any misstatements in the inspection report before it is generated.
The report can help the seller realistically price the home if problems exist.
The report can help the seller substantiate a higher asking price if problems don't exist or have been corrected.
A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which:
- might make the home show better.
- gives the seller time to make repairs and shop for competitive contractors.
- permits the seller to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report.
- removes over-inflated buyer procured estimates from the negotiation table.
The report might alert the seller to any immediate safety issues found, before agents and visitors tour the home.
The report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to potential buyers.
A seller inspection permits a clean home inspection report to be used as a marketing tool.
A seller inspection is the ultimate gesture in forthrightness on the part of the seller.
The report might relieve a prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
A seller inspection lightens negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
The report might encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
The deal is less likely to fall apart the way they often do when a buyer's inspection unexpectedly reveals a problem, last minute.
The report provides full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

Let's discuss and see where this idea goes shall we?

A Simple Key to Success

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Tue, 13 Jan 2009 11:05:24 -0800

Recently I sat down with a very successful business person, at my request, to talk about how to become even more successful in business. While I am acquainted with and admire many successful business people in my area, I really wanted to discuss the dynamics of being successful from this one successful person who started from scratch. Not an individual who worked themselves up the ladder of good organizations.

As we talked and enjoyed our lunch, I asked what was his one true key to success, if there is only one? His reply was short, simple, and made great sense. His reply - "Under promise and over produce"! Whether that promise involves putting in long hours, learning a new skill, gaining knowledge about client needs, or various other concepts/ideas. Make your customer #1 so he doesn't go anywhere else for that type of business. Of course, he expanded upon this concept with dealings he had starting out and continuing to this day.

Makes sense doesn't it: under promise -over produce! We have met many through our dealings who over promised and under produced when we needed or wanted their product or service. Think back on those experiences and remember how it made us feel. Not like we were their number one priority did it? What would we have done different? How would we have made the situation right? How could we under promise and over produce?

How do we under promise and over produce? Here are just a few examples, but don't stop there:

Do not create a deadline for your efforts that you know is unreasonable and unattainable.
Know your strengths and weaknesses. Improve upon both!
Don't be afraid to ask for assistance from others around you.
Learn a skill or gain knowledge that can enhance your services to your clients.
Set attainable goals for you, your client and the transaction.
Deliver on your promise way before it is due!
Give outstanding service.

These are some tough times we are going through. Standing out from the rest is what will make us successful and be the individual people run to for your services; not the person they run from.

A Simple Key to Success

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Tue, 13 Jan 2009 10:59:44 -0800

How do we under promise and over produce? Here are just a few examples, but don't stop there:

Do not create a deadline for your efforts that you know is unreasonable and unattainable.
Know your strengths and weaknesses. Improve upon both!
Don't be afraid to ask for assistance from others around you.
Learn a skill or gain knowledge that can enhance your services to your clients.
Set attainable goals for you, your client and the transaction.
Deliver on your promise way before it is due!
Give outstanding service.

These are some tough times we are going through. Standing out from the rest is what will make us successful and be the individual people run to for your services; not the person they run from.

Making the Grade. The importance of proper grading around the home

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Sat, 19 Apr 2008 10:56:06 -0700

MAKING THE GRADE

Proper grading and draining around a home is one of those things that few people see when shopping for a home, and yet it can have one of the most significant impacts on a homes condition and the health of its occupants. As a professional home inspector since 1994, I would say improper grading is one of the more common defects I find.

Improper Slope

It would be a mistake to assume that just piling more dirt around the house would solve the problem. Some houses do not have room below the siding to create a positive slope away from the home by adding more dirt. Covering up the siding with earth or landscaping materials could cause more damage could occur with ground moisture rotting the framing of the house. Or in the case of brick, water seeps into the porous brick then freezes, deteriorating the brick. Having the ground too close to, or in contact with the siding promotes wood destroying insect infestations as well. So, just applying more dirt around the home is not always the best remedy.

Proper grade

The grade away from the home should not be less than 1 inch per foot of the grade for a distance of about 6- 10 feet. If this condition is not possible with the level of the house siding, more serious re-grading and lot swale improvement will need to occur. Sometimes I have inspected homes that were originally built too low on the lot, with elevations that put the house at the bottom of a bowl. Solving these kinds of elevation problems can be expensive and usually involve a landscape engineer.

Routing downspouts

Keep debris away

Debris and grass clippings can retain water and promote seepage and insect infestations.

Sump Pumps

Child Safety

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Fri, 11 Jan 2008 16:13:02 -0800

Childproofing Your Home - 12 Safety Devices to Protect Your Children About 2-1/2 million children are injured or killed by hazards in the home each year. The good news is that many of these incidents can be prevented by using simple child safety devices on the market today.

Any safety device you buy should be sturdy enough to prevent injury to your child, yet easy for you to use. It's important to follow installation instructions carefully. In addition, if you have older children in the house, be sure they re-secure safety devices. Remember, too, that no device is completely childproof; determined youngsters have been known to disable them.

You can childproof your home for a fraction of what it would cost to have a professional do it. And safety devices are easy to find. You can buy them at hardware stores, baby equipment shops, supermarkets, drug stores, home and linen stores, and through mail order catalogues.

Here are some child safety devices that can help prevent many injuries to young children.

1 Use Safety Latches and Locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas to help prevent poisonings and other injuries. Safety latches and locks on cabinets and drawers can help prevent children from gaining access to medicines and household cleaners, as well as knives and other sharp objects.

Look for safety latches and locks that adults can easily install and use, but are sturdy enough to withstand pulls and tugs from children. Safety latches are not a guarantee of protection, but they can make it more difficult for children to reach dangerous substances. Even products with child-resistant packaging should be locked away, out of reach; this packaging is not childproof.

Typical cost of a safety latch or lock: less than $2.

2 Use Safety Gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas. Safety gates can help keep children away from stairs or rooms that have hazards in them. Look for safety gates that children cannot dislodge easily, but that adults can open and close without difficulty. For the top of stairs, gates that screw to the wall are more secure than "pressure gates."

New safety gates that meet safety standards display a certification seal from the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA). If you have an older safety gate, be sure it doesn't have "V" shapes that are large enough for a child's head and neck to fit into.

Typical cost of a safety gate: $13 to $40.

3 Use Door Knob Covers and Door Locks to help prevent children from entering rooms and other areas with possible dangers. Door knob covers and door locks can help keep children away from places with hazards, including swimming pools.

Be sure the door knob cover is sturdy enough not to break, but allows a door to be opened quickly by an adult in case of emergency. By restricting access to potentially hazardous rooms in the home, door knob covers could help prevent many kinds of injuries. To prevent access to swimming pools, door locks should be placed high out of reach of young children. Locks should be used in addition to fences and door alarms. Sliding glass doors, with locks that must be re-secured after each use, are often not an effective barrier to pools.

Typical cost of a door knob cover: $1 and door lock: $5 and up.

4 Use Anti-Scald Devices for faucets and shower heads and set your water heater temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help prevent burns from hot water. Anti-scald devices for regulating water temperature can help prevent burns.

Consider using anti-scald devices for faucets and showerheads. A plumber may need to install these. In addition, if you live in your own home, set water heater temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help prevent burns from hot water.

Typical cost of an anti-scald device: $6 to $30.

5 Use Smoke Detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries.

Check smoke detectors once a month to make sure they're working. If detectors are battery-operated, change batteries at least once a year or consider using 10-year batteries. Typical cost of a smoke detector: less than $10. 6 Use Window Guards and Safety Netting to help prevent falls from windows, balconies, decks, and landings. Window guards and safety netting for balconies and decks can help prevent serious falls.

Check these safety devices frequently to make sure they are secure and properly installed and maintained. There should be no more than four inches between the bars of the window guard. If you have window guards, be sure at least one window in each room can be easily used for escape in a fire. Window screens are not effective for preventing children from falling out of windows.

Typical cost of a window guard or safety netting: $8 to $16.

7 Use Corner and Edge Bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges of furniture and fireplaces. Corner and edge bumpers can be used with furniture and fireplace hearths to help prevent injuries from falls or to soften falls against sharp or rough edges.

Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture or hearth edges.

Typical cost of a corner and edge bumper: $1 and up.

8 Use Outlet Covers and Outlet Plates to help prevent electrocution. Outlet covers and outlet plates can help protect children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.

Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.

Typical cost of an outlet cover: less than $2.

9 Use a Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detector outside bedrooms to help prevent CO poisoning. A carbon monoxide (CO) detector can help prevent CO poisoning. Consumers should install CO detectors near sleeping areas in their homes. Households that should use CO detectors include those with gas or oil heat or with attached garages.

Typical cost of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector: $30 to $70.

10 Cut Window Blind Cords; use Safety Tassels and Inner Cord Stops to help prevent children from strangling in blind cord loops. Window blind cord safety tassels on miniblinds and tension devices on vertical blinds and drapery cords can help prevent deaths and injuries from strangulation in the loops of cords. Inner cord stops can help prevent strangulation in the inner cords of window blinds.

For older miniblinds, cut the cord loop, remove the buckle, and put safety tassels on each cord. Be sure that older vertical blinds and drapery cords have tension or tie-down devices to hold the cords tight. When buying new miniblinds, verticals, and draperies, ask for safety features to prevent child strangulation.

11 Use Door Stops and Door Holders to help prevent injuries to fingers and hands. Door stops and door holders on doors and door hinges can help prevent small fingers and hands from being pinched or crushed in doors and door hinges.

Be sure any safety device for doors is easy to use and is not likely to break into small parts, which could be a choking hazard for young children.

Typical cost of a door stop and door holder: less than $4.

12 Use a Cordless Phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they're in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas.

Cordless phones help you watch your child continuously, without leaving the vicinity to answer a phone call. Cordless phones are especially helpful when children are in or near water, whether it's the bathtub, the swimming pool, or the beach.

Typical cost of a cordless phone: $30 and up.

Ten Tips to Speed Up Your Home Inspection

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Fri, 11 Jan 2008 16:07:27 -0800

Sellers can speed their home inspection by following these suggestions. The inspection will go smoother, with fewer concerns to delay closing.

Confirm that water, electric and gas service are on, with gas pilot lights burning.
Ensure pets won't hinder the inspection. Ideally, they should be removed from premises or secured outside. Tell your agent about any pets at home.
Replace burned out bulbs to avoid a "Light is inoperable" report that may suggest an electrical problem.
Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and replace dead batteries.
Clean or replace dirty HVAC air filters. They should fit securely.
Remove stored items, debris and wood from foundation. These may be cited as "conducive conditions" for termites.
Remove items blocking access to HVAC equipment, electric service panels, water heaters, attics and crawl spaces.
Unlock areas the inspector must access - attic doors or hatches, electric service panels, closets, fence gates and crawl spaces.
Trim tree limbs to 10' from the roof and shrubs from the house to allow access.
Attend to broken or missing items like doorknobs, locks and latches; windowpanes, screens and locks; gutters, downspouts and chimney caps.

Checking these areas before your home inspection is an investment in selling your property. Your real estate agent will thank you!

Winter Maintenance Items

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Mon, 24 Dec 2007 13:37:21 -0800

Recharge fire extinguishers
Wax and buff wood floors
Professionally clean curtains and drapes
Inspect and touch up interior paint
Inspect exposed plumbing areas for dampness (twice per year)
Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)
Test for carbon monoxide

Autumn home maintenance items

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 11:03:06 -0700

Perform these projects to maintain your home and possibly lengthen the life span of your home systems. Replace smoke and fire alarm batteries (at least twice per year) Inspect and clean fireplace and chimney Service furnace or other heating system Clean and adjust humidifier on furnace Clean/vacuum heating ducts, grills, and registers Clean upper-story windows (twice per year) Inspect window screens and insulation, and install storm windows Inspect weather-stripping around doors and replace as needed. Cut back any trees or shrubs touching the roof or exterior (twice per year) Clean gutters and inspect downspouts (twice per year) Trim, cover, or bring in outdoor plants as needed Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)

The ABCs of Home Ownership (A Glossary)

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Sat, 11 Aug 2007 13:53:38 -0700

Here are some common terms relevant to home ownership. For a complete list, visit http://www.nachi.org/ and click on Glossary.

A/C: An abbreviation for Air Conditioner, Air Conditioning, or Alternating Current.

Access Panel: An opening in the wall or ceiling near the fixture that allows access for servicing the plumbing/electrical system.

Approach: The area between the sidewalk and the street that leads to a driveway or the transition from the street as you approach a driveway.

Awning Window: A window with hinges at the top allowing it to open out and up.

Backsplash: A raised integral portion of a wall mount sink or lavatory located at the rear to protect the wall.

Baseboard: Usually wood or vinyl installed around the perimeter of a room to cover the space where the wall and floor meet. A board placed against the wall around a room next to the floor to properly finish between the floor and the plaster.

Bearing Wall: A wall that supports any vertical load in addition to its own weight.

Breeze Way: A roofed, open-sided passageway connecting two structures, such as a house and a garage.

Casement Window: A sidehinged window that opens on hinges secured to the side of the window frame.

Casing: Molding of various widths and thicknesses used to trim door and window openings at the jambs.

Ceiling Joist: One of a series of parallel framing members used to support ceiling loads and supported in turn by larger beams, girders or bearing walls. Also called roof joists.

Chair Rail: A molding that runs horizontally along the wall at about 3 feet from the ground. In storefront, window wall, or curtain wall systems, a chair rail is an aluminum extrusion applied horizontally to the inside of the system 3 feet from the floor to create a barrier in floor-to-ceiling glazing applications.

Circuit: A network of wiring that typically commences and returns at a panel box, and feeds electricity to outlets.

Composite Board: An insulation board which has two different insulation types laminated together in 2 or 3 layers.

Compression Valve: A type of valve that works by raising or lowering a stem. Water passes through the valve by turning the faucet handle, which causes the stem to drop or rise.

Condensing Unit: The outdoor component of a cooling system. It includes a compressor and condensing coil designed to give off heat.

Crawl Space: A shallow open area between the floor of a building and the ground, normally enclosed by the foundation wall.

Crown Molding: A molding used on cornice or wherever an interior angle is to be covered.

Culvert: Round, corrugated drain pipe (normally 15" or 18" in diameter) that is installed beneath a driveway parallel to and near the street.

Deck: An elevated platform. "Deck" is also commonly used to refer to the above-ground floors in multi-level parking garage.

Dormer: A converted attic with windows projecting through a sloping roof.

Double Hung Window: A window with sashes that slide vertically and allow opening from the top and bottom.

Drywall: A gypsum board material used for walls or ceilings.

Easement: A formal contract which allows a party to use another party's property for a specific purpose, e.g. a sewer easement might allow one party to run a sewer line through a neighbor's property.

Eave: The part of the roof which extends beyond the side wall.

Egress: A means of exiting the home. An egress window is required in every bedroom and basement. Normally a 4x4 window is the minimum size required.

Energy Efficiency Ratio: An air conditioning efficiency rating system which indicates the number of BTU's delivered per watt of power consumed.

Expansive Soils: Earth that swells and contracts depending on the amount of water that is present.

Facade: The front of a building. Frequently, in architectural terms an artificial or decorative effort.

Fenestration: Any glass panel, window, door, curtain wall or skylight unit on the exterior of a building.

Field Measure: To take measurements (cabinets, countertops, stairs, shower doors, etc.) in the home itself instead of using the blueprints.

Fitting: A general term that usually refers to faucets, shower valves, tub fillers, or various piping parts such as tees or elbows.

Fixture: In plumbing, the devices that provide a supply of water and/or its disposal, e.g. sinks, tubs, toilets.

Floor Plan: The basic layout of building or addition, which includes placement of walls, windows and doors as well as dimensions.

Footing: The underground support for a foundation or support post.

Foundation: The supporting portion of a structure below the first floor construction, or below grade, including the footings.

Summer maintenance around the house

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Tue, 19 Jun 2007 22:08:36 -0700

Summer
Inspect exposed plumbing areas for dampness (twice per year)
Fix loose or cracked caulking around tiles, sinks, tubs, showers, toilets, and counters
Inspect appliance hoses and ventilation according to owner's manuals
Power wash, repair, refinish, and seal decks, reset any protruding nails
Clean and lubricate sliding-glass-door tracks and window tracks
Lubricate door hinges and locks
Oil garage door(s)
Patch driveway and other concrete, or treat asphalt
Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)

Life Expectancies of Home Components

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Sun, 03 Jun 2007 21:45:39 -0700

No home is perfect, nor will remain perfect. It is just a fact of life that stuff breaks. Many factors may

affect the useful life of the various systems and components of your home. Obviously, quality (and more

expensive) components will usually last longer and give better service than cheaper ones. The quality of

the installation also has a large affect. Finally, better care and regular maintenance will lengthen the

useful life of any home item. The following is some guidelines based upon average quality and

maintenance.

Roof Systems

Slate 60 to 100 years

Clay Tile 60 to 100 years

Metal 50 to 90 years

Cedar Shake 30 to 50 years

Asphalt Shingles 15 to 30 years

4 Ply built-up roofing (flat) 10 to 20 years

Roll roofing 5 to 10 years

Gutters and Downspouts

Copper 40 to 90 years

Galvanized 20 to 25 years

Aluminum 20 to 25 years

Plastic / Vinyl Varies on quality, 3 to 50 years

Siding

Brick / Masonry 100+ years

Stucco 100+ years

Cement - asbestos 40 to 100 years

Vinyl 25 to 40 years

Aluminum 20 to 40 years

Wood 20 to 40 years

Exterior paint 2 to 5 years

Outside Components

Asphalt driveway 5 to 10 years

Wooden deck 10 to 15 years

Exterior doors 12 to 15 years

Garage door opener 8 to 12 years

Plumbing

Plastic (PVC) pipe unknown

Copper pipe 70+ years

Cast iron pipe 50 to 90 years

Lead pipe 50 to 70 years

Septic system field tiles 25 to 30 years

Water heater 8 to 15 years

HVAC

Furnace - Gas 20 to 25 years

Boiler 20 to 25 years

Cast iron boiler 30+ years

Fans 15 to 30 years

Pumps 10 to 20 years

Appliances

Range 18 to 20 years

Refrigerator 10 to 20 years

Dishwasher 8 to 12 years

Garbage Disposer 8 to 12 years

Trash compactor 8 to 12 years

Clothes Washer 10 to 15 years

Clothes Dryer 12 to 15 years

Child Safety

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Sun, 03 Jun 2007 21:41:07 -0700

Here are some child safety devices that can help prevent many injuries to young children.

Typical cost of a safety latch or lock: less than $2.

Typical cost of a safety gate: $13 to $40.

Typical cost of a door knob cover: $1 and door lock: $5 and up.

Typical cost of an anti-scald device: $6 to $30.

5 Use Smoke Detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries.

Typical cost of a window guard or safety netting: $8 to $16.

Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture or hearth edges.

Typical cost of a corner and edge bumper: $1 and up.

8 Use Outlet Covers and Outlet Plates to help prevent electrocution. Outlet covers and outlet plates can help protect children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.

Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.

Typical cost of an outlet cover: less than $2.

Typical cost of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector: $30 to $70.

Be sure any safety device for doors is easy to use and is not likely to break into small parts, which could be a choking hazard for young children.

Typical cost of a door stop and door holder: less than $4.

12 Use a Cordless Phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they're in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas.

Typical cost of a cordless phone: $30 and up.

Indoor Swimming Pool Safety

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Tue, 08 May 2007 11:21:54 -0700

Indoor Pools When a pool is located completely within a house, the walls that surround the pool should be equipped to serve as pool safety barriers. Measures recommended above where a house wall serves as part of a safety barrier also apply for all the walls surrounding an indoor pool. Guidelines An outdoor swimming pool, including an inground, aboveground, or onground pool, hot tub, or spa, should be provided with a barrier which complies with the following:

1. The top of the barrier should be at least 48 inches above grade measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. The maximum vertical clearance between grade and the bottom of the barrier should be 4 inches measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. Where the top of the pool structure is above grade, such as an aboveground pool, the barrier may be at ground level, such as the pool structure, or mounted on top of the pool structure. Where the barrier is mounted on top of the pool structure, the maximum vertical clearance between the top of the pool structure and the bottom of the barrier should be 4 inches.

2. Openings in the barrier should not allow passage of a 4-inch diameter sphere.

3. Solid barriers, which do not have openings, such as a masonry or stone wall, should not contain indentations or protrusions except for normal construction tolerances and tooled masonry joints.

4. Where the barrier is composed of horizontal and vertical members and the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is less than 45 inches, the horizontal members should be located on the swimming pool side of the fence. Spacing between vertical members should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width. Where there are decorative cutouts, spacing within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width.

5. Where the barrier is composed of horizontal and vertical members and the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is 45 inches or more, spacing between vertical members should not exceed 4 inches. Where there are decorative cutouts, spacing within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width.

6. Maximum mesh size for chain link fences should not exceed 1-3/4 inch square unless the fence is provided with slats fastened at the top or the bottom which reduce the openings to no more than 1-3/4 inches. 7. Where the barrier is composed of diagonal members, such as a lattice fence, the maximum opening formed by the diagonal members should be no more than 1-3/4 inches. 8. Access gates to the pool should be equipped to accommodate a locking device. Pedestrian access gates should open outward, away from the pool, and should be self-closing and have a self latching device. Gates other than pedestrian access gates should have a self-latching device. Where the release mechanism of the self-latching device is located less than 54 inches from the bottom of the gate.

The release mechanism should be located on the pool side of the gate at least 3 inches below the top of the gate.
The gate and barrier should have no opening greater than 1/2 inch within 18 inches of the release mechanism.

9. Where a wall of a dwelling serves as part of the barrier, one of the following should apply:

All doors with direct access to the pool through that wall should be equipped with an alarm which produces an audible warning when the door and its screen, if present, are opened. The alarm should sound continuously for a minimum of 30 seconds within 7 seconds after the door is opened. The alarm should have a minimum sound pressure rating of 85 dBA at 10 feet and the sound of the alarm should be distinctive from other household sounds, such as smoke alarms, telephones, and door bells. The alarm should automatically reset under all conditions. The alarm should be equipped with manual means, such as touchpads or switches, to temporarily deactivate the alarm for a single opening of the door from either direction. Such deactivation should last for no more than 15 seconds. The deactivation touch pads or switches should be located at least 54 inches above the threshold of the door.
The pool should be equipped with a power safety cover which complies with ASTM F1346-91 listed below.
Other means of protection, such as self-closing doors with self-latching devices, are acceptable so long as the degree of protection afforded is not less than the protection afforded by the above.

10. Where an aboveground pool structure is used as a barrier or where the barrier is mounted on top of the pool structure, and the means of access is a ladder or steps, then:

The ladder to the pool or steps should be capable of being secured, locked or removed to prevent access.
The ladder or steps should be surrounded by a barrier. When the ladder or steps are secured, locked, or removed, any opening created should not allow the passage of a 4-inch diameter sphere.

These guidelines are intended to provide a means of protection against potential drowning's and narrowing to children under 5 years of age by restricting access to residential swimming pools, spas, and hot tubs. Exemptions A portable spa with a safety cover which complies with ASTM F1346-91 listed below should be exempt from the guidelines presented in this document. Swimming pools, hot tubs, and non portable spas with safety covers should not be exempt from the provisions of this document.

Swimming Pool Safety

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Tue, 08 May 2007 11:20:14 -0700

Safety Guidelines for Home Pools

Swimming pools should always be happy places.Unfortunately, each year thousands of American families confront swimming pool tragedies, drowning's and near-drowning's of young children. These tragedies are preventable. These are guidelines for pool barriers that can help prevent most submersion incidents involving young children. This designed for use by owners, purchasers, and builders of residential pools, spas, and hot tubs. These guidelines are not intended as the sole method to minimize pool drowning of young children, just helpful safety tips for safer pools.

Each year, hundreds of young children die and thousands come close to death due to submersion in residential swimming pools. CPSC has estimated that each year about 300 children under 5 years old drown in swimming pools. Hospital emergency room treatment is required for more than 2,000 children under 5 years of age who were submerged in residential pools. CPSC did an extensive study of swimming pool accidents, both fatal drowning's and near-fatal submersions, in California, Arizona and Florida, states in which home swimming pools are very popular and in use during much of the year.

In California, Arizona and Florida, drowning was the leading cause of accidental death in and around the home for children under the age of 5 years.
75 percent of the children involved in swimming pool submersion or drowning accidents were between 1 and 3 years old.
Boys between 1 and 3 years old were the most likely victims of fatal drowning's and near-fatal submersions in residential swimming pools.
Most of the victims were being supervised by one or both parents when the swimming pool accident occurred.
Nearly half of the child victims were last seen in the house before the pool accident occurred. In addition, 23 percent of the accident victims were last seen on the porch or patio, or in the yard.
This means that fully 69 percent of the children who became victims in swimming pool accidents were not expected to be in or at the pool, but were found drowned or submerged in the water.
65 percent of the accidents occurred in a pool owned by the victims immediate family, and 33 percent of the accidents occurred in pools owned by relatives or friends.
Fewer than 2 percent of the pool accidents were a result of children trespassing on property where they didnt live or belong.
77 percent of the swimming pool accident victims had been missing for five minutes or less when they were found in the pool drowned or submerged.

The speed with which swimming pool drowning's and submersions can occur is a special concern: by the time a childs absence is noted, the child may have drowned. Anyone who has cared for a toddler knows how fast young children can move. Toddlers are inquisitive and impulsive and lack a realistic sense of danger. These behaviors, coupled with a childs ability to move quickly and unpredictably make swimming pools particularly hazardous for households with young children.

Swimming pool drowning's of young children have another particularly insidious feature: these are silent deaths. It is unlikely that splashing or screaming will occur to alert a parent or caregiver that a child is in trouble. The best way to reduce child drowning's in residential pools was for pool owners to construct and maintain barriers that would prevent young children from gaining access to pools. However, there are no substitutes for diligent supervision. Why the Swimming Pool Guidelines Were Developed Young child can get over a pool barrier if the barrier is too low or if the barrier has handholds or footholds for a child to use when climbing. The guidelines recommend that the top of a pool barrier be at least 48 inches above grade, measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. Eliminating handholds and footholds and minimizing the size of openings in a barriers construction. For a solid barrier no indentations or protrusions should be present, other than normal construction tolerances and masonry joints. For a barrier (fence) made up of horizontal and vertical members if the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is less than 45 inches, the horizontal members should be on the swimming pool side of the fence. The spacing of the vertical members should not exceed 1-3/4 inches. This size is based on the foot width of a young child and is intended to reduce the potential for a child to gain a foothold. If there are any decorative cutouts in the fence, the space within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches. The definition of pool includes spas and hot tubs. The swimming pool barrier guidelines therefore apply to these structures as well as to conventional swimming pools. How to Prevent a Child from Getting OVER a Pool Barrier A successful pool barrier prevents a child from getting OVER, UNDER, or THROUGH and keeps the child from gaining access to the pool except when supervising adults are present. The Swimming Pool Barrier Guidelines If the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is more than 45 inches, the horizontal members can be on the side of the fence facing away from the pool. The spacing between vertical members should not exceed 4 inches. This size is based on the head breadth and chest depth of a young child and is intended to prevent a child from passing through an opening. Again, if there are any decorative cutouts in the fence, the space within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches.

For a chain link fence the mesh size should not exceed 1-1/4 inches square unless slats, fastened at the top or bottom of the fence, are used to reduce mesh openings to no more than 1-3/4 inches.

For a fence made up of diagonal members (latticework) the maximum opening in the lattice should not exceed 1-3/4 inches.

Aboveground pools should have barriers. The pool structure itself serves as a barrier or a barrier is mounted on top of the pool structure. Then, there are two possible ways to prevent young children from climbing up into an aboveground pool. The steps or ladder can be designed to be secured, locked or removed to prevent access, or the steps or ladder can be surrounded by a barrier such as those described above. For any pool barrier, the maximum clearance at the bottom of the barrier should not exceed 4 inches above grade, when the measurement is done on the side of the barrier facing away from the pool.

If an aboveground pool has a barrier on the top of the pool, the maximum vertical clearance between the top of the pool and the bottom of the barrier should not exceed 4 inches. Preventing a child from getting through a pool barrier can be done by restricting the sizes of openings in a barrier and by using self-closing and self-latching gates.

To prevent a young child from getting through a fence or other barrier, all openings should be small enough so that a 4-inch diameter sphere cannot pass through. This size is based on the head breadth and chest depth of a young child. Gates

There are two kinds of gates which might be found on a residential property. Both can play a part in the design of a swimming pool barrier.

Pedestrian Gates are the gates people walk through. Swimming pool barriers should be equipped with a gate or gates which restrict access to the pool. A locking device should be included in the gate design. Gates should open out from the pool and should be self closing and self-latching. If a gate is properly designed, even if the gate is not completely latched, a young child pushing on the gate in order to enter the pool area will at least close the gate and may actually engage the latch. When the release mechanism of the self-latching device is less than 54 inches from the bottom of the gate, the release mechanism for the gate should be at least 3 inches below the top of the gate on the side facing the pool. Placing the release mechanism at this height prevents a young child from reaching over the top of a gate and releasing the latch. Also, the gate and barrier should have no opening greater than 1/2 inch within 18 inches of the latch release mechanism. This prevents a young child from reaching through the gate and releasing the latch. Other gates should be equipped with self-latching devices. The self-latching devices should be installed as described for pedestrian gates.

How to Prevent a Child from Getting UNDER / THROUGH a Pool Barrier

In many homes, doors open directly onto the pool area or onto a patio which leads to the pool. In such cases, the wall of the house is an important part of the pool barrier, and passage through any doors in the house wall should be controlled by security measures. The importance of controlling a young childs movement from house to pool is demonstrated by the statistics obtained during CPSCs study of pool incidents in California, Arizona and Florida. Almost half (46 percent) of the children who became victims of pool accidents were last seen in the house just before they were found in the pool.

All doors which give access to a swimming pool should be equipped with an audible alarm which sounds when the door and/or screen are opened. The alarm should sound for 30 seconds or more within 7 seconds after the door is opened and should be loud, at least 85 decibels, when measured 10 feet away from the alarm mechanism. The alarm sound should be distinct from other sounds in the house, such as the telephone, doorbell and smoke alarm. The alarm should have an automatic reset feature. Because adults will want to pass through house doors in the pool barrier without setting off the alarm, the alarm should have a switch that allows adults to temporarily deactivate the alarm for up to 15 seconds. The deactivation switch could be a touch pad (keypad) or a manual switch, and should be located at least 54 inches above the threshold of the door covered by the alarm. This height was selected based on the reaching ability of young children.

Power safety covers can be installed on pools to serve as security barriers. Power safety covers should conform to the specifications in ASTM F 1346-91. This standard specifies safety performance requirements for pool covers to protect young children from drowning. Self-closing doors with self-latching devices could also be used to safeguard doors which give ready access to a swimming pool.

Replacing Your Roof

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Tue, 24 Apr 2007 07:44:35 -0700

Replacing Your Roof

The age of your roof is usually the major factor in determining when to replace it. Most roofs last many years if properly installed and often can be repaired rather than replaced. An isolated leak usually can be repaired. The average life expectancy of a typical residential roof is 15 to 20 years. Water damage to a homes interior or overhangs is commonly caused by leaks from a single weathered portion of the roof, poorly installed flashing, or from around chimneys and skylights. These problems do not necessarily mean you need a new roof.

Fire-Resistant Materials Some roofing materials, including asphalt shingles and especially wood shakes, are less resistant to fire than others. When wildfires and brush fires spread to houses, it is often because burning branches, leaves, and other debris buoyed by the heated air and carried by the wind fall on roofs. If the roof of your house is covered with wood or asphalt shingles, you should consider replacing them with fire-resistant materials. You can replace your existing roofing materials with slate, terra cotta or other types of tile, or standing-seam metal roofing. Replacing roofing materials is difficult and dangerous work. Unless you are skilled in roofing and have all the necessary tools and equipment, you will probably want to hire a roofing contractor to do the work. Also a roofing contractor can advise you on the relative advantages and disadvantages of various fire-resistant roofing materials.

Hiring a Licensed Contractor One of the best ways to select a roofing contractor is to ask friends or relatives for recommendations. You may also contact a professional roofers association for referrals. Professional associations have stringent guidelines for their members to follow. The roofers association in your area will provide you with a list of available contractors. Follow these guidlines when selecting a contractor...

Get three references and review past work
Get at least three bids.
Get a written contract and dont sign anything until you completely understand the terms.
Pay 10 percent down or $1,000 whichever is less.
Dont let payments get ahead of the work.
Dont pay cash.
Dont make final payment until youre satisfied with the job.
Dont rush into repairs or be pressured into making an immediate decision

Youve Chosen the Contractor... What About the Contract? Make sure everything is in writing. The contract is one of the best ways to prevent problems before you begin. The contract protects you and the contractor by including everything you have both agreed upon. Get all promises in writing and spell out exactly what the contractor will and will not do.

...and Permits? Your contract should call for all work to be performed in accordance with all applicable building codes. The building codes set minimum safety standards for construction. Generally, a building permit is require whenever structural work is involved. The contractor should obtain all necessary building permits. If this is not specified in the contract, you may be held legally responsible for failure to obtain the required permit. The building department will inspect your roof when the project has reached a certain stage and again whe the roof is completed.

...and Insurance? Make sure the contractor carries workers compensation insurance and general liability insurance in case of accidents on the job. Ask to have copies of these policies for your job file. You should protect yourself from mechanics lien against your home in the event the contractor does no pay subcontractors or material suppliers. You may be able to protect yourself by having a release of lien clause in your contract. A release of lien clause requires the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers to furnish a certificate of waiver of lien. If you are financing your project, the bank or lending institution may require that the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers verify that they have been paid, before releasing funds for subsequent phases of the project. A leaky roof can damage ceilings, walls, and furnishings. To protect buildings and their contents from water damage, roofers repair and install roofs made of tar or asphalt and gravel; rubber or thermoplastic; metal; or shingles made of asphalt, slate, fiberglass, wood, tile, or other material. Roofers also may waterproof foundation walls and floors. Keep these points in mind if you plan to have your existing roofing materials replaced:

Tile, metal, and slate are more expensive roofing materials, but if you need to replace your roofing anyway, it may be worthwhile to pay a little more for the added protection these materials provide.
Slate and tile can be much heavier than asphalt shingles or wood shingles. If you are considering switching to one of these heavier coverings, your roofing contractor should determine whether the framing of your roof is strong enough to support them.
If you live in an area where snow loads are a problem, consider switching to a modern standing-seam metal roof, which will usually shed snow efficiently.

Roofing and Maintenance of the Roof.

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Mon, 23 Apr 2007 21:45:37 -0700

Roofing

Roofs play a key role in protecting building occupants and interiors from outside weather conditions, primarily moisture. The roof, insulation, and ventilation must all work together to keep the building free of moisture. Roofs also provide protection from the sun. In fact, if designed correctly, roof overhangs can protect the buildings exterior walls from moisture and sun.The concerns regarding moisture, standing water, durability and appearance are different, reflected in the choices of roofing materials.

Maintaining Your Roof Homeowner maintenance includes cleaning the leaves and debris from the roofs valleys and gutters. Debris in the valleys can cause water to wick under the shingles and cause damage to the interior of the roof. Clogged rain gutters can cause water to flow back under the shingles on the eaves and cause damage. Whatever the roofing material may be including composition shingle, wood shake, tile or metal. The best way to preserve your roof is to stay off it. Also, seasonal changes in the weather are usually the most destructive forces. There are two types of roofsflat and pitched (sloped). Most commercial, industrial, and apartment buildings have flat or slightly sloping roofs. Most houses have pitched roofs. Some roofers work on both types; others specialize. Most flat roofs are covered with several layers of materials. Roofers first put a layer of insulation on the roof deck. Over the insulation, they then spread a coat of molten bitumen, a tarlike substance. Next, they install partially overlapping layers of roofing felt, a fabric saturated in bitumen, over the surface. Roofers use a mop to spread hot bitumen over the surface and under the next layer. This seals the seams and makes the surface watertight. Roofers repeat these steps to build up the desired number of layers, called plies. The top layer either is glazed to make a smooth finish or has gravel embedded in the hot bitumen to create a rough surface. An increasing number of flat roofs are covered with a single-ply membrane of waterproof rubber or thermoplastic compounds. Roofers roll these sheets over the roofs insulation and seal the seams. Adhesive, mechanical fasteners, or stone ballast hold the sheets in place. The building must be of sufficient strength to hold the ballast. Most residential roofs are covered with shingles. To apply shingles, roofers first lay, cut, and tack 3-foot strips of roofing felt lengthwise over the entire roof. Then, starting from the bottom edge, they staple or nail overlapping rows of shingles to the roof. Workers measure and cut the felt and shingles to fit intersecting roof surfaces and to fit around vent pipes and chimneys. Wherever two roof surfaces intersect, or shingles reach a vent pipe or chimney, roofers cement or nail flashing-strips of metal or shingle over the joints to make them watertight. Finally, roofers cover exposed nailheads with roofing cement or caulking to prevent water leakage. Roofers who use tile, metal shingles, or shakes follow a similar process. Some roofers also waterproof and dampproof masonry and concrete walls and floors. To prepare surfaces for waterproofing, they hammer and chisel away rough spots, or remove them with a rubbing brick, before applying a coat of liquid waterproofing compound. They also may paint or spray surfaces with a waterproofing material, or attach waterproofing membrane to surfaces. When dampproofing, they usually spray a bitumen-based coating on interior or exterior surfaces.

Spring Home Checklist Maintenance Tips

Denny McAuley (Home Check America Inspection Services) — Mon, 23 Apr 2007 20:39:24 -0700

Spring
Replace smoke and fire alarm batteries (at least twice per year)
Cut back any trees or shrubs touching the exterior (twice per year)
Inspect and touch up exterior paint
Inspect foundation for water penetration, settlement, and cracks
Inspect or treat exterior wood for splintering, decay, and insect damage
Inspect window insulation and remove storm windows
Clean exterior of upper-story windows (twice per year)
Install window screens, repairing as needed
Clean gutters and inspect downspouts (twice per year)
Inspect roof for warping, aging, moss, and cracking
Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)