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With a huge inventory of available properties for sale, right now seems to be a perfect time for a real estate investor to find the right type of home, building and or commercial properties that fit their investment capital.
After finding the right investment opportunity, the first consideration you should have is having the property inspected by a professional inspection company. Even though a lot of investors do their own repairs, remodels and conversions, it would be very wise to know what you are about to undertake. Are you prepared financially to replace a roof? Does the building have outdated galvanized plumbing or knob and tube wiring? When you are looking at the properties it is very easy to overlook or miss a potential problem or major defect. For example, on a multi-unit building with 6-12 water heaters, knowing the manufacture date, installation date and fuel source for each unit is important. As with all components of the building each separate water heater has an average life expectancy. If the existing water heaters are all form the 1980’s you should expect to replace these very soon, with an average cost of approximately $400-450 each. That’s a whopping $4800-54000 to replace these units. When you have the building inspected professionally you should expect to know the condition of the following after the inspection: Plumbing, Heating, Air conditioning, Electrical & Wiring, Roofing system, Foundation, Windows & Doors, Interior & Exterior components, and etc. The one thing that typically isn’t as important to many investors are cosmetic issues. I have found that cosmetic issues such as faded paint, scuff marks, stains, nicks and etc. are outside the scope of most inspection reports. As a real estate investor you no doubt have a group of professionals helping you grow your investments such as Realtors, Title insurance company, Pest control applicator, Appraiser, Mortgage or lending company and etc. Having a qualified residential / commercial inspector is equally as important. After having the building inspected you should have enough information to know whether you really want to continue with the purchase and investment.
| |  | | The holidays are rapidly approaching. It’s the time of year for social outings with friends and family. It’s important to feel comfortable about the security of your home, no matter if you are hosting guests at your house, or leaving your home unoccupied for a period of time. Fire kills an estimated 4,000 Americans annually. Property damage from fire costs at least $11 billion yearly. And most deaths are the result of inhaling poisonous gases or smoke, not from the flames. As home inspectors, we’ve compiled some tips for you that will help you limit the risk in your home. Potential Fire Issue #1: Clothes Dryer Vents. Did you know that one of the largest percentage of home fires in the U.S. is actually caused by lint in clothes dryer vents? Residential clothes dryers use two principal sources to generate heat; either electricity or some form of gas. The combustion process produces heat and the heat is warm enough to burn lint that is collected in clothes vents, especially if the vents haven’t been cleaned for a long time. Tip: Make sure that you clean your dryer’s lint filter AFTER EVERY LOAD. Staying on top of your filter will help ensure that excess lint doesn’t travel into the dryer vent chamber and end up in the dryer vent. Excess lint can easily catch on fire if it ends up in the wrong place. Use a flexible clothes dryer vent brush to clean lint out of the vent at least once or twice a year. And make sure that your dryer vents to the outside, not your attic, garage or other open space in the home. The combustion process loves oxygen; a fire that is started in a garage or attic will move quickly to the home’s structure. Potential Fire Issue #2: Inoperable or Non-Existent Smoke Detectors. Smoke detectors are one of the key safety components of any home. In a Johns Hopkins University study funded by the United States Fire Administration it was determined that 75 percent of residential fire deaths and 84 percent of residential fire injuries could have been prevented by smoke detectors. Detectors should be located on each living level of the home and in every bedroom. In bedrooms, if you locate a detector on the ceiling it should be at least 18 inches away from dead air space near walls and corners. If you locate it on a wall, place it 6-12 inches below the ceiling and away from corners. Tip: Smoke detectors can be battery-operated, hard-wired, or a combination. Testing smoke detectors monthly and changing battery operated detectors at least twice annually is recommended to ensure safe operation. One of the easiest ways to remember to change batteries is to do it when you change your clocks, once in the fall and once in the spring. Potential Fire Issue #3: Lack of planning. Very few families ever plan their escape route in the event of a fire. If you have pets or small children, how will you get them out?
A better idea is to practice fire drills with your family. Designate a place for everyone to meet outside the home such as the mailbox, a special tree or the apron of the driveway. Then plan an actual drill, teach everyone how to respond and let it happen as though it is a real emergency. Then, if there is a real fire and the house is smoke-filled, nobody will get hurt returning to the home to look for someone that has already gotten out. The National Fire Protection Association indicates that many parents die every year returning to homes to find their children, and the children are already outside the home. The problem is that in all the confusion, nobody knows exactly where the children are located! If you have a multi-story home, invest in an approved fire ladder of proper length so that you can escape from the upstairs, as your pathway to the lower level may be completely blocked. Potential Fire Issue #4: Christmas trees and Christmas tree lights. Natural Christmas trees are most often ponderosa fir. As the tree ages after being cut, the wood becomes less and less absorptive and continues to dry out. The drier the wood is, the more likely it is to burn. Tip: Be certain to keep your tree located AWAY from your fireplace. Use only UL-approved lights and cords, and monitor the lights and cords for signs of excessive heat, cuts, open wires and other defects. Make sure your lights are not sitting against flammable materials such as curtains. Potential Fire Issue #5: Open incandescent bulbs in closets. Every year homes are burned as a result of a seemingly innocent open incandescent bulb in a closet. Often, these bulbs
are attached to their own switch. Once the switch is turned on, the bulb stays on and heats up and is often forgotten because it is in a closet. The outside of the bulb can easily reach temperatures hot enough to ignite flammables such as boxes, tissue paper, sweaters, shirts, etc. Tip: Replace the bulb with a compact fluorescent bulb, cover the bulb with an approved fixture or replace the fixture with a fluorescent fixture. All of these options will reduce the potential for fire. Potential Fire Issue #6: Flammable materials inside a garage. Combustible materials such as lighter fluid, paint soaked rags, oil-soaked rags, gasoline in unapproved containers, etc. should not be kept in the garage. A garage houses automobiles, water heaters, furnaces, etc. All of these products involve a combustion process and accelerate the risk of flammable materials. Tip: Store chemicals in approved containers. Throw away chemical-soaked rags. Keep materials away from water heaters, electric power sources such as electric service panels, open receptacles, etc. Potential Fire Issue #7: Garages without approved self-closing fire doors leading to the house. Fire doors are typically made of solid wood or metal and normally manufactured to withstand a fire for 30-45 minutes. The door’s self-closing mechanism helps ensure that the door will protect the home from the transmission of fire into the living space. Self-closing mechanisms are designed so that the door closes on its own. Tip: Make sure you have an approved fire door that is self-closing leading to your home’s interior space. If the door needs adjustment, ask the neighborhood hardware store how to do it or call a qualified handyperson to make the repair. |
| | | Inspect-It 1st: The Nation’s Premier Property Inspection Company
High & Dry: What Homeowners Need to Know About Roofs, Part 2
In last month’s Inspection Connection, we discussed roofing components, including the concept of roof incline and the five major foes of roofs. In this Newsletter, we’ll discuss roofing materials, leaks, maintenance, ventilation and safety concerns.
Types of Roofing Materials
Choices in roofing materials have expanded dramatically in the past five years. The type of roof on your house depends a lot on where you live, what is popular and what builders and homeowners have found that works best. It usually takes a decade or more for new products to prove themselves as worthy or unworthy.
Sloped Roofs
In terms of sloped roofs, asphalt shingles are still the most popular product and comprise more than 70% of all residential roofs. These shingles are durable, reasonably-priced, easily installed and average 15-20 years life expectancy.
Asphalt multi-thickness shingles are heavier and will last longer than regular asphalt shingles, as will asphalt interlocking shingles, a product that has proven its value in areas of high winds.
Wood shingles and wood shakes are still popular in parts of the country, but these roofs require preservative maintenance every five years and may not be a good fit for areas where wood boring insects are prevalent.
Clay and concrete tiles are popular in the southwest and generally last 15-20 years. These tiles require regular maintenance, as tiles normally shift position and will crack and chip depending on weather exposure.
Finally, slate shingles are still popular in parts of the country. Slate tiles last as long as 100 years, but are brittle, expensive and can be difficult to maintain. Rounding out the most popular products are asbestos cement shingles and metal roofing. Metal roofing is growing quickly in some parts of the country. This is a product that hadn’t been used very much in residential applications except for garages and storage sheds.
Low-Sloped Roofs
Low-sloped roofs (once called flat roofs) are roofs that have a very small pitch. These roofs are subject to many more issues than sloped roofs. Drainage may be incomplete and debris often impacts runoff. Low-sloped roofs often have poor ventilation and therefore condensation and leaks can cause decay or delamination of the sheathing material (most often made of plywood or OSB, oriented strand board). As a result, most architects now require an increased slope and locate the drainage system along the outside perimeter of the roof rather than through the building. Since “through the roof” drains are surrounded by roofing materials on all four sides and are installed far away from perimeter walls, water congregates in an area where it is difficult to diagnose and where it can do a lot of damage.
Low-sloped roofing materials include both open and closed cell spray foam/polyurethane, modified bitumen, asphalt rolled roofing, EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) and other synthetic rubber products, along with Neoprene, Hypalon, CPE, PIB, PVC and others.
These products have various strengths and weaknesses, but in general, the most significant areas of concern in low-sloped roofs are the seams, the edges and any area next to a roofing protrusion such as a drain waste vent, drainage vent or skylight.
Roof Leaks
All roofing materials are subject to leaks. Even the newest roof with the latest product installed must be periodically inspected and maintained to ensure peak performance. No matter what type of roof or product is installed, finding the source of the leak can be a large challenge.
The primary reason is that roof leaks often originate in a spot far away from where water is first observed. This is because water molecules are attracted to one another through the cohesive forces of capillary action and don’t show up until there is an amount significant enough to be seen. Water running through an attic often shows up far away from its exterior point of entry. Once there is enough water and it is heavy enough to drop down from a structural member such as a roof rafter, the leak may be noticed by an occupant as an interior ceiling stain. And not all “roof leaks” are from the roof. Condensation from a kitchen or bathroom vent or from a plumbing leak can also originate in the attic.
Most Frequent Causes of Leaks
- Exposed nail heads, nails improperly installed or nails not set flush with the underlying shingles.
- Improper flashing, sealing or worn-through flashing, especially around projections such as chimneys, plumbing vent pipes, skylights and dormers.
- Missing, torn or pierced shingles combined with damaged roof felt, caused by stones, hail, tree branches or human foot traffic.
- Roof valley defects such as torn or shifted material caused by temperature changes, water, foot traffic or debris.
- Wind-driven rain that lifts up shingles and flashing or pushes through attic windows, louvers, through siding or through brick mortar.
- Ice dams, which are often caused by improper attic ventilation and result from freezing, thawing and re-freezing of water in gutters.
- Improperly attached gutters and drip edges.
- Improperly installed roofing or the wrong roof materials.
- Cracking and blistering of roofing materials such as polyurethane foam, mastic, rolled asphalt or built-up roofing.
- Ponding of water caused by improper slope, sagging of the roof or debris that clogs drains and scuppers.
- Cracked or disintegrated chimney caps, missing rain caps, improper and damaged flashing.
- Missing chimney crickets on chimneys more than 30” wide and installed at the eave.
Roof Maintenance
- Trim trees that overhang or are in contact with the roof surface. This will help to prevent storm damage and will help keep debris out of gutters, scuppers and roof drains.
- Direct downspouts onto splashblocks and away from the home, not against the foundation. Never direct a downspout onto another roof surface, especially in areas where water freezes.
- When replacing your roofing product, such as shingles, take the opportunity to tear off the old product so that you can take a close look at the roof sheathing. Placing another layer of shingles on top of existing shingles doesn’t allow you to see the sheathing and may create structural problems due to the excess weight. Too many layers also makes fire-fighting more difficult.
- Never nail or walk in valleys or on weak spots. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions printed on the product.
- Don’t allow different metals to come in contact with each other such as galvanized nails and copper flashing. These metals will corrode more quickly when they touch.
- Make it a practice to inspect and clean your roof, gutters, downspouts, scuppers and drains on a regular basis. You can prevent many roofing problems by simply being attentive to your roof.
We hope you enjoyed our two-part Roofing Series. Looking forward to seeing you next month! |
| | | | Inspect-It 1st: The Nation’s Premier Property Inspection Company
High & Dry: What Homeowners Need to Know About Roofs, Part 1
Along with the foundation, the roof is the most important component of the home. The roof protects the top surface of the home from the effects of the weather, provides structural support to framing members, and helps maintain the thermal blanket (temperature control) of the home.
Roofs provide security and psychological well-being to occupants in addition to physical comfort. Along with food and clothing, roofs embody one of the essential components of our modern, indoor lifestyle.
Although there are many different forms of roofing materials, all roofs have five basic components: - Sheathing – The sheet material such as plywood, wood boards or OSB (oriented strand board) that are attached to the roof rafters to cover the house.
- Roof Covering – Shingles, tiles, wood shakes, foam, rolled roofing, etc. These are the materials that protect the roof sheathing. There is often a layer of felt paper placed between the sheathing and the specific roof covering. This felt paper is primarily used to protect the sheathing from the effects of water.
- Roof Structure – The rafters and trusses that are constructed to support the sheathing. Roof incline is discussed below.
- Drainage – The specific features of the roof design, such as height, slope, materials and layout that affect the ability to shed water from rain and snow.
- Flashing – Sheet metal, aluminum, copper or other material installed at various joints, valleys, corners and other locations to control drainage and to prevent water intrusion.
Roof Incline is the final factor to consider in roofing structure. Incline is often called pitch, slope, or angle, and this factor impacts the selection of the roofing materials that may be properly installed.
A roof with little or no slope is called a low slope or flat roof. Common materials used are bituminous such as asphalt and gravel (built-up roofs); rolled roofing; and foam roofing. Low-sloped roofs present the homeowner with many unique issues. Water may pond in certain areas due to lack of slope, and tree debris will accumulate for the same reason. Typically, drainage is provided by roof drains or scuppers. Clogged drains may cause damage inside the building, especially if these protrusions are not properly sealed with flashing.
With low-sloped roofs, it is particularly important to understand how water changes its structure due to temperature. Water expands 700 times in volume from the liquid state to the vapor state due to heat and expands as much as 4 times when it freezes into ice. Moisture penetration into the felt layers of a built-up roof can cause bubbles and ripples, and also may result in delamination, especially on rolled asphalt roofing. Low-sloped roofs also suffer from poor ventilation, which can lead to deterioration of the sheathing material.
Since low-sloped roofs suffer due to lack of slope, architects now call for some slope on all roofs and tend to locate drainage systems on the perimeter of the building (using drains and scuppers) instead of through the building such as that found with non-perimeter roof drains. We have also seen fast deterioration of low-sloped roofs where drainage was installed on only one side of the roof. This is because all water from the furthest points of the roof must travel the entire distance of the roof to reach the drains.
Ultimately, roofs are adversely affected by five major foes:
Sun – Heat and ultraviolet rays from the sun cause roofing materials to dry out, overheat, crack, peel, blister and deteriorate. Oftentimes areas with South, Southwest or West exposure wear out faster than those facing the North or East. This is especially true if the roof is dark in color as darker colors absorb more heat. Interestingly, several recent studies regarding asphalt shingle deterioration have shown roof color to be even more important than attic ventilation as a key factor impacting shingle performance. Assuming all other factors to be equal, the darker the color of the shingle, the faster it deteriorates.
Rain - Rain exists in every part of the United States. Rain, including hail and freezing rain, can directly damage roof coverings. Water intrusion from rain can cause sheathing to rot, mildew or mold to grow and can destroy interior components such as insulation, drywall or sheetrock. Rain can also destroy electrical systems including wiring, receptacles, lighting fixtures and junction boxes.
Wind – Wind direction and speed vary more than you might imagine. Asphalt shingles on a roof can be lifted by one type of wind during one specific storm but not from any other storm, ever. Many clients who have lived in the same home for more than a decade, tell us that their shingles lifted up one time only during one specific storm. A strong wind can lift up shingles, tear them off or drive rain water under the edges of the material. It can easily knock tree branches into the material, causing scraping, puncturing or tearing. Wind also causes an increase in tree debris left on the roof, such as leaves, small branches and seed pods. All of these can impede proper drainage.
Snow/Ice – Depending on exterior temperatures, attic ventilation and insulation, melting snow often refreezes at the overhang areas (the eaves) and can block proper drainage into the gutter. Instead, the water backs up under the shingles and seeps into the interior of the home, often underneath flashings and then through window frames. Oftentimes gutters and downspouts fill with an ice/snow/water mixture, and can be damaged beyond repair or tear off the house.
Moss/Lichen – Wood, built-up and shingle roofs particularly can be damaged by moss and other simple structure plants such as lichen. The root systems serve as pathways for moisture to penetrate the roofing material. On built-up or low-sloped roofs, moss can impede water drainage. Plant structures can also cause nails to rust, causing shingles to loosen and detach.
In our next Newsletter, we will discuss roofing products, ventilation, leaks, maintenance and related issues.
See you next month! |
The Nation’s Premier Inspection Company Tips For Saving Money On Energy:
Whether you own a three story brick Georgian in Connecticut, a one story ranch house in Arizona or a high-rise condominium in downtown Chicago, your home energy costs are a major portion of your housing budget. Water
Most homes waste a lot of water. Since water is a limited resource, we need to start viewing it as a precious resource. Homes use water at an estimated rate of about 50-200 gallons per bedroom per day. For a four bedroom house, this means an average month’s use could be as low as 6,000 gallons to as high as 24,000 gallons or even more if you have a large lawn, a pool, etc. That’s a lot of water use and it isn’t something that should just “go down the drain.” Tips for Water Conservation:
Investigate your use of water. Look at how and when you use water. Ask every member of your household to start thinking about water use. Post “Conserve Water” signs throughout your house. This small activity will lower your use significantly.
Then try the following: - Use your clothes washing machine during evening hours, (typically starting at 9:00 p.m. in most cities – check with yours) when electric rates are lower and ONLY WASH FULL LOADS. This will ensure that you run less loads of laundry during the week and you’ll save on electricity at the same time.
- Do the same with your dishwasher; use it during the evening hours and run only full loads.
- Tell everyone to take shorter showers. Place a timer near the shower in the morning and try to complete your shower in less than 10 minutes. Ask occupants to stop taking baths. Baths can use anywhere from 30-70 gallons of water per bath, versus about 16 gallons for a ten minute shower.
- Install low water use toilets and showerheads in your home.
- Turn OFF the faucet when brushing your teeth. You don’t need to watch water running down the drain to be successful with your toothbrush!
- Conserve rainwater in downspout barrels. Place a 32 gallon plastic garbage container under a major downspout that you have altered to fit.You’ll catch a lot of water during a downpour and you can use it on your plants instead of a hose.
- Perform less watering of seasonal varieties of plants. Try to use less fertilizer, especially on indigenous species. Fertilizers stimulate plant growth and growth requires more water.
- Don’t use your garden hose to wash down your driveway. Use a broom and a dustpan and some elbow grease. You’ll get a clean driveway and some cardiovascular benefits that your hose just can’t provide.
Electricity
Electricity rates continue to increase everywhere. No matter how the electricity is generated, no doubt you’ve noticed a large increase in your bill over the past few years. A few ideas: - Start using major appliances as much as possible when rates are lowest. Check with your local provider. Rates can be as much as 40% lower at night. At the same time, you’ll be helping your local electric company to lower its demand during the day.
- If you have an electric water heater, set the temperature to 120 degrees maximum. This is warm enough for a great shower, keeps you from being scalded, and will save you on energy costs. Consider installing a recirculating pump that will produce hot water faster with less waste. You may even be eligible for a local rebate from your power company. And consider installing a water heater blanket around your heater, especially if it is located in a basement or the garage.
- Energy for lighting accounts for about 10% of your total electric bill. Check the wattage size of your light bulbs. You may be using 100 watt bulbs where 60 or 70 watt bulbs would suffice. You should also consider replacing incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent lamps (CFL’s). CFL’s can replace incandescents that are 3-4 times their wattage, resulting in a 75% energy savings. Although they cost 3-10 times more than comparable incandescent bulbs, they last 6-15 times as long (6,000-15,000 hours). CFL’s save the most energy in locations where lights are on for an extended period of time, such as a basement workshop or play area. In addition, CFL’s give off less heat and therefore put less of a strain on your home’s cooling system.
- Air conditioning is installed in 2/3rds of the homes in the United States. AC uses about 5% of all the electricity produced in the U.S., at a cost of over $11 billion to homeowners. 100 million tons of carbon dioxide are released into the air each year as a result. That’s roughly two tons per air conditioning unit. Switching to a high efficiency unit and taking other actions can knock your energy costs down from 20-50%.
Take steps to lower the heat buildup in your home. Use barriers on windows such as shades, window films, drapes and shutters to reduce heat intake. On hot days, avoid using the cooktop of your range as it throws heat directly into the house. A ceiling fan will allow you to raise the thermostat setting about 4 degrees Fahrenheit with no reduction in comfort. Fans are appropriate only in bedrooms with ceilings at least 8 feet high. More about ceiling fans in an upcoming Inspection Connection Newsletter. See you next month!
From Inspect-It 1st Property Inspection
"The Nation's Premier Property Inspection Company" The past year has been fascinating in the inspection business. As a national company, we’ve dealt with water intrusion issues in virtually every possible scenario, from unexpected freezes in Arizona to massive snows and rains in the Northeast to tornados and hurricanes in the South, our clients’ homes have been hammered with lots of moisture issues. It’s something we know a lot about. Here are some lessons we’ve learned as successful home inspectors. Lesson #1:
Most residential water damage is the result of improper drainage. Before you spend lots of time worrying about getting water out of your basement, worry about letting water in. Too many homeowners spend their time and energy trying to figure out how to pump water out of their basement sump pump versus trying to prevent it from entering in the first place. Simply put, basements are natural places for water to collect. Most basements or crawlspaces are at least partially below grade. This means that water at grade (grade refers to the soil that is placed against the home) level from rain or melting snow will permeate soil and attack foundation walls. Most foundations simply can’t handle massive levels of water without seepage. As a homeowner, you must do your best to minimize this water flow. Here’s how: - If you have a gutter and downspout system, make sure the gutters are clean. Clean gutters increase water flow to the downspouts and minimize water flowing over the gutters and flooding the perimeter of your home.
- Make sure that all downspout elbows have extensions and that all downspouts are directing water AWAY from your foundation. A good rule of thumb is that the elbow and its extension should slope away from the foundation at least ½ inch for every foot of length. We recommend downspout extensions be installed at every downspout and extend away the home.
- Make certain that you have a battery back-up sump pump installed for every electric sump pump installed in your home. Many homes in the Midwest experience regular power outages due to an unstable power grid. A power outage during a storm will render an electric sump pump useless. Once the pump crock pit fills with water, your basement will flood.
Lesson #2
Check the grade around your home. Grade refers to the soil that is placed up against the home. The grade should be 6-8” below any cladding on the home such as vinyl, aluminum or wood siding, stucco, or masonite. This will help to prevent these materials from drawing up moisture. If necessary, remove some of the soil or adjust the slope so that the grade slopes away from the home.
Lesson #3
Remove and relocate any trees or bushes that are very close or in actual contact with your home. Trees and bushes can damage exteriors and their roots can penetrate drain tiles (the tiles that carry groundwater to the sump pump and away from the home and its foundation walls). For example, many homeowners have experienced major damage to their drain tile system as a result of the weeping willow tree. A willow tree is beautiful, but it loves water and its roots can extend for hundreds of feet. A damaged drain tile system can cost hundreds if not thousands of dollars to repair. The same is true for your lawn. If it’s located too close to the structure, watering it to keep it healthy may have a very negative impact on the structure, especially if water is performed by sprinklers.
Lesson #4
Check the location, timing and pattern of automatic sprinkler systems at your home. Sprinklers that are near the home can spray exteriors and soak foundations. Leaking sprinklers underground can do even more damage. Damage to concrete structures can occur very quickly, as concrete is quite porous. Lesson #5
Check the slope of any non-permeable surfaces near your home such as walkways, patios, driveways, etc. When it rains, does water route away from the structure or is it flowing against the building? After a number of years, concrete surfaces installed in colder climates often shift due to frost heave. The frost heaves the concrete in such a way that water is now routed towards the house instead of away from it. Make any repairs necessary to improve slope so that water runs away. In some cases a simple solution such as trimming grass that borders a concrete walkway will dramatically improve drainage. Lesson #6
Put on your raincoat. The next time it rains, go outside and take a look at your home. Pay close attention to the roof and how water is handled by your drainage system. You’ll learn a lot about which sections of the roof handle the most rainfall, which sections are most protected, where rain actually ends up and what might be done to improve the drainage system. You’ll learn which areas of the foundation receive the most water, how that water is handled and how long the area stays wet. While you’re looking, make diagrams with notes and create a master map so that you can explain it clearly to someone else when it isn’t raining. Start making contact with home professionals such as roofers, plumbers and landscapers so that you can complete a project quickly, if needed. For more great ideas on how to improve your home’s drainage, don’t hesitate to contact us.
From Inspect-It 1st Property Inspection
"The Nation's Premier Property Inspection Company" Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Equipment - The HVAC system in your home is an essential system for your comfort. In the winter, the system provides hot air to combat the effects of cold weather outside. In the summer, the air conditioner works hard to keep inside air cool. If properly maintained, these systems should last an average of 12-15 years, depending on climate. The furnace filters should be changed monthly, especially during the heating season. On a typical split system with gas furnace and outside air conditioning compressor/condenser, we recommend that each system be cleaned and checked by a professional technician at least once annually. In Northern climates where central humidifiers are common, we recommend cleaning the filter chamber regularly to prevent bacteria build-up and installing a new filter pad at least annually. Garage - For most people, the garage is used to safely store cars, boats, bicycles, and lots of other personal belongings. Since many homes have electric garage door openers, the door is a very important home appliance. Most mainsprings on garage doors are rated for about 18,000-20,000 lifts. On average, this means about 5 years of use. Keeping the door tracks clean and lubricated and the support brackets tight will help the door to move more easily, thereby putting less stress on the spring. And less stress on the spring translates to a longer life. It’s also important to ensure that the fire door to the house has a self-closing mechanism that causes the door to close automatically. This helps to maintain the fire rating of the garage. And check both the electronic sensors and the reversing mechanism on the garage door at least monthly. Both are very important safety devices that help prevent accidents. Site Drainage - Most homes with basements suffer from leakage issues at one time or another. Did you know that most leakage issues in basements are the result of roof drainage issues? Doesn’t seem to make sense, does it? However, even in homes without clogged gutters and downspouts, most downspouts are not routed properly away from the foundation. And emptying your downspout near the foundation is like pouring water into your basement with a hose. All downspouts should route away from the foundation at least 1” per linear foot. For example, a six foot extension on a downspout should slope downwards 6” from the foundation wall. This will help protect the foundation wall from water intrusion that results when heavy rains have nowhere to go. Electric - Know the in’s and out’s of proper testing. All GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) -protected electrical receptacles should be tested at least monthly by pushing the red test button and resetting it. All receptacles within 6’ of a water source (such as the kitchen sink) should be fitted with GFCI’s. Check extension cords periodically to ensure there are no frays, cuts or loose plugs. Be certain to use UL-approved cords and do not overload the extension cord. Use care when unplugging appliances by grasping on the plug, not the cord. Never work with electricity when your hands or feet are wet. Recognize the dangers of overloading circuits with too many appliances. Circuit breakers or fuses are meant to trip when circuits are overloaded; never defeat the intent of a breaker or fuse by installing a breaker or fuse that is larger than the circuit that it serves (15 amp circuits should have 15 amp breakers, etc.). This is common practice on large appliances such as furnaces, because electric motors draw more amperage on start-up. This can also be accomplished by the installation of a time-delay fuse connected to the shut-off at the shut-off panel adjacent to the unit (assuming it has one). However, it is not recommended that a homeowner perform any of these tasks unless he/she is a licensed electrician or an HVAC technician. Plumbing Drains are one of the most frequent home challenges. Although they are part of the passive water system of the home, they often clog and back-up. One great way to keep drains flowing is to pour scalding hot water down the drain once a month for about 2 minutes. The hot water will help dislodge hair, food, and other matter that is typically trapped in the P-trap under the sink. In addition, it’s fairly easy to detach and cleanout P traps if they become so clogged that hot water doesn’t work. Simply place a bucket underneath the P trap, loosen the couplings on either end and disconnect. Then clean the P trap out with an old toothbrush, rag and hose on the outside of the house (no reason to add all that gunk to another sink). Reassemble and tighten the couplings. Then test for leaks.
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Ed Reeve - Home Inspector - Metro Atlanta
Buford,
GA
More about me…
Inspect-It 1st Home Inspection NE Ga
Address: Buford, Ga, 30518
Office Phone: (678) 482-1691
Cell Phone: (678) 520-4587
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