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Here's a link to a video I made of some termite damage I found in a recent Raleigh area home inspection. These little guys can do some serious damage very quickly!! We recommend a yearly inspection of your crawlspace to keep any potential problems to a minimum. At the very least you should be have a Home Maintenance Inspection performed every 2 years. http://www.asktheraleighhomeinspector.com/?p=17
Radon (Rn)
Radon is a radioactive noble gas that is formed by the decay of radium and is considered to be a health hazard. You cannot see, smell, or taste Radon. But it still may be a problem in your home. When you breathe air containing Radon, you increase your risk of getting lung cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General of the United States has warned that Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. If you smoke and your home has high Radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.
Radon is found in 1 out of every 15 homes
Testing is the only way to find out your home's Radon levels.
Elevated Radon levels are found throughout Raleigh and Durham North Carolina
Radon has been found in homes all over the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home through well water and your home can trap Radon inside.
A personal note from Scott Makseyn
As a long time professional in the real estate industry I strongly urge you to have your home tested for the presence of Radon gas. There are currently no laws requiring Radon testing in a real estate transaction; however the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the Surgeon General have recommended that ALL houses should be tested for Radon gas. In time I believe that as the public and our leaders become more informed these recommendations will become requirements. I urge you to be proactive and have your home tested, for the health and well being your entire family is at stake.
At a recent inspection of a 6 year old home, I observed that the hardwood floors throughout the first floor of the house were slightly cupped. I continued my interior inspection thinking of what I would find in the crawlspace. I expected to find a muddy mess on the ground and a furry growth all over the wood. I was not looking forward to it. To my surprise, the crawlspace appeared clean and dry. There was a vapor barrier, but not as much as there should be. Let me note here that we have had one of the driest summers on record, at this point a mild hurricane might not be a bad thing, we really NEED some rain. Further investigation in the crawlspace revealed that the ground was actually slightly moist, not muddy, but I could feel it. Moisture readings in the wood framing were just above the threshold of 19%. I can only imaging what this would be like after a some normal rain. Confident in my findings, I emerge from the crawlspace prepared to report my findings to my client and their agent. I started at the beginning, the cupped floors. They had both noticed them, but didn't think to ask me if it was normal. In their defense it was minor and had the sun not been shining just right, it would have been easy to miss. I explained my findings in the crawlspace and remarked about the hardwood floors, these two items go hand in hand and left alone would eventually lead to some serious damage to the house. I made some recommendations ranging from a better vapor barrier on the ground, to the installation of a sealed crawlspace system. Further investigation by a waterproofing specialist would determine the best way to go. I am never one to just pass the buck. The service I provide to my clients and their realtors is just what I would like to have if I were in their shoes. That evening I gathered up my resources to help them make the most informed choice and referred them to some local contractors that would do a quality job. Everyone was very pleased and I felt great knowing that I helped another client make an informed choice about their purchase. Home inspections are not pass or fail, nor are they supposed to sugar coat the deal. As I always say, "It is what it is" and in the end I do everything possible to help everyone involved. If you would like to learn more about crawlspaces and the benefits of installing a sealed system I have provided the same links below I provided to my client. Always happy to help, Scott Makseyn Specifically mentions hardwood floors http://www.ilevel.com/literature/179-07772.pdf Department of Energy information http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/your_home/insulation_airsealing/index.cfm/mytopic=11780 Some great articles http://www.vbinspect.com/crawl_space_1.pdf http://www.environmentalbuilding.net/docs/cs%20article%20home%20energy%20mag.pdf http://www.environmentalbuilding.net/resources/crawlspaces_quick.pdf
I just wanted to let you know that I have already adopted the new standardized report format set forth by the Home Inspector Licensure Board set to go into effect 12/01/07. This together with the recent changes made to the Offer To Purchase And Contract are changing the way we do business. The transaction process with it's time constraints can be very stressful and this is where I can help, I want to help you to be more successful. I can do that by saving you time. I hold a NC real estate license and can be given lock box combinations without violating the MLS rules. I can also schedule the termite inspection to be done at the same time as the home inspection. I provide unlimited support to my clients and Realtors alike. Call today or visit online and find out what a professional home inspection really is. Scott
Roofing http://www.inspectorlocator.com/ Roofs play a key role in protecting building occupants and interiors from outside weather conditions, primarily moisture. The roof, insulation, and ventilation must all work together to keep the building free of moisture. Roofs also provide protection from the sun. In fact, if designed correctly, roof overhangs can protect the buildings exterior walls from moisture and sun.The concerns regarding moisture, standing water, durability and appearance are different, reflected in the choices of roofing materials. Maintaining Your Roof Homeowner maintenance includes cleaning the leaves and debris from the roof's valleys and gutters. Debris in the valleys can cause water to wick under the shingles and cause damage to the interior of the roof. Clogged rain gutters can cause water to flow back under the shingles on the eaves and cause damage. Whatever the roofing material may be including composition shingle, wood shake, tile or metal. The best way to preserve your roof is to stay off it. Also, seasonal changes in the weather are usually the most destructive forces. There are two types of roofs-flat and pitched (sloped). Most commercial, industrial, and apartment buildings have flat or slightly sloping roofs. Most houses have pitched roofs. Some roofers work on both types; others specialize. Most flat roofs are covered with several layers of materials. Roofers first put a layer of insulation on the roof deck. Over the insulation, they then spread a coat of molten bitumen, a tarlike substance. Next, they install partially overlapping layers of roofing felt, a fabric saturated in bitumen, over the surface. Roofers use a mop to spread hot bitumen over the surface and under the next layer. This seals the seams and makes the surface watertight. Roofers repeat these steps to build up the desired number of layers, called "plies". The top layer either is glazed to make a smooth finish or has gravel embedded in the hot bitumen to create a rough surface. An increasing number of flat roofs are covered with a single-ply membrane of waterproof rubber or thermoplastic compounds. Roofers roll these sheets over the roof's insulation and seal the seams. Adhesive, mechanical fasteners, or stone ballast hold the sheets in place. The building must be of sufficient strength to hold the ballast. Most residential roofs are covered with shingles. To apply shingles, roofers first lay, cut, and tack 3-foot strips of roofing felt lengthwise over the entire roof. Then, starting from the bottom edge, they staple or nail overlapping rows of shingles to the roof. Workers measure and cut the felt and shingles to fit intersecting roof surfaces and to fit around vent pipes and chimneys. Wherever two roof surfaces intersect, or shingles reach a vent pipe or chimney, roofers cement or nail flashing-strips of metal or shingle over the joints to make them watertight. Finally, roofers cover exposed nailheads with roofing cement or caulking to prevent water leakage. Roofers who use tile, metal shingles, or shakes follow a similar process. Some roofers also waterproof and dampproof masonry and concrete walls and floors. To prepare surfaces for waterproofing, they hammer and chisel away rough spots, or remove them with a rubbing brick, before applying a coat of liquid waterproofing compound. They also may paint or spray surfaces with a waterproofing material, or attach waterproofing membrane to surfaces. When dampproofing, they usually spray a bitumen-based coating on interior or exterior surfaces. A number of roofing materials are available... Asphalt Asphalt is the most commonly used roofing material. Asphalt products include shingles, roll-roofing, built-up roofing, and modified bitumen membranes. Asphalt shingles are typically the most common and economical choice for residential roofing. They come in a variety of colors, shapes, and textures. There are four different types: strip, laminated, interlocking, and large individual shingles. Laminated shingles consist of more than one layer of tabs to provide extra thickness. Interlocking shingles are used to provide greater wind resistance. And large individual shingles generally come in rectangular and hexagonal shapes. Roll-roofing products are generally used in residential applications, mostly for underlayments and flashings. They come in four different types of material: smooth-surfaced, saturated felt, specialty-eaves flashings, and mineral-surfaced. Only mineral surfaced is used alone as a primary roof covering for small buildings like sheds. Smooth-surfaced products are used primarily as flashing to seal the roof at intersections and protrusions, and for providing extra deck protection at the roof's eaves and valleys. Saturated felt is used as an underlayment between the roof deck and the roofing material. Specialty-eaves flashings are typically used in climates where ice dams and water backups are common. Built-up roofing (or BUR) is the most popular choice of roofing used on commercial, industrial and institutional buildings. BUR is used on flat or low-sloped roofs and consists of multiple layers of bitumen and ply sheets. Components of a BUR system include the roof deck, a vapor retarder, insulation, membrane and surfacing material. A modified bitumen membrane assembly consists of continuous plies of saturated felts, coated felts, fabrics or mats between which alternate layers of bitumen are applied, either surfaced or unsurfaced. Factory surfacing, if applied, includes mineral granules, slag, aluminum or copper. The bitumen determines the membrane's physical characteristics and provides primary waterproofing protection, while the reinforcement adds strength, puncture resistance and overall system integrity. Metal
Most metal roofing products consist of steel or aluminum, although some consist of copper and other metals. Steel is invariably galvanized by the application of a zinc or zinc/aluminum coating, which greatly reduces the rate of corrosion. Metal roofing is available as traditional seam and batten, tiles, shingles, and shakes. Products also come in a variety of styles and colors. Metal roofs with solid sheathing control noise from rain, hail, and bad weather just as well as any other roofing material. Metal roofing can also help eliminate ice damming at the eves. And in wildfire-prone areas, metal roofing helps protect buildings from fire should burning embers land on the roof. Metal roofing costs more than asphalt, but it typically lasts 2 to 3 times longer than asphalt or wood shingles. Wood
Wood shakes offer a natural look with a lot of character. Because of variations like color, width, thickness, or cut of the wood, no two shake roofs will ever be the same. Wood offers some energy benefits, too. It helps to insulate the attic, and it allows the house to breathe, circulating air through the small openings under the felt rows on which wooden shingles are laid. A wood shake roof, however, demands proper maintenance and repair, or it will not last as long as other products. Mold, rot, and insects can be a problem. The life cycle cost of a shake roof may be high, and old shakes can't be recycled. Most wood shakes are unrated by fire safety codes. Many use wipe or spray-on fire retardants, which offer less protection and are only effective for a few years. Some pressure-treated shakes are impregnated with fire retardant and meet national fire safety standards. Installing wood shakes is more complicated than roofing with composite shingles, and the quality of the finished roof depends on the experience of the contractor as well as the caliber of the shakes you use. The best shakes come from the heartwood of large old cedar trees, which are difficult to find. Some contractors maintain that shakes made from the outer wood of smaller cedars, the usual source today, are less uniform, more subject to twisting and warping, and don't last as long.
Concrete and Tile
Concrete tiles are made of extruded concrete that is colored. Traditional roofing tiles are made from clay. Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are durable, aesthetically appealing, and low in maintenance. They also provide energy savings and are environmentally friendly. Although material and installation costs are higher for concrete and clay tile roofs, when evaluated on a price versus performance basis, they may out perform other roofing materials. Tile adorns the roofs of many historic buildings as well as modern structures. In fact, because of its extreme durability, longevity, and safety, roof tile is the most prevalent roofing material in the world. Tested over centuries, roof tile can successfully withstand the most extreme weather conditions including hail, high wind, earthquakes, scorching heat, and harsh freeze-thaw cycles. Concrete and clay roof tiles also have unconditional Class A fire ratings, which means that, when installed according to building code, roof tile is non-combustible and maintains that quality throughout its lifetime. In recent years, manufacturers have developed new water-shedding techniques and, for high-wind situations, new adhesives and mechanical fasteners. Because the ultimate longevity of a tile roof also depends on the quality of the sub-roof, roof tile manufacturers are also working to improve flashings and other aspects of the underlayment system. Under normal circumstances, properly installed tile roofs are virtually maintenance free. Unlike other roofing materials, roof tiles actually become stronger over time. Because of roof tile's superior quality and minimal maintenance requirements, most roof tile manufacturers offer warranties that range from 50 years to the lifetime of the structure. Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are also energy efficient, helping to maintain livable interior temperatures (in both cold and warm climates) at a lower cost than other roofing systems. Because of the thermal capacity of roof tiles and the ventilated air space that their placement on the roof surface creates, a tile roof can lower air conditioning costs in hotter climates and produce more constant temperatures in colder regions, which reduces potential ice accumulation. Tile roofing systems are made from naturally occurring materials and can be easily recycled into new tiles or other useful products. They are produced without the use of chemical preservatives, and do not deplete limited natural resources.
Single-Ply
Single-ply membranes are flexible sheets of compounded synthetic materials that are manufactured in a factory. There are three types of membranes: thermosets, thermoplastics, and modified bitumens. These materials provide strength, flexibility, and long-lasting durability. The advantages of pre-fabricated sheets are the consistency of the product quality, the versatility in their attachment methods, and therefore, their broader applicability. They are inherently flexible, used in a variety of attachment systems, and compounded for long lasting durability and watertight integrity for years of roof life. Thermoset membranes are compounded from rubber polymers. The most commonly used polymer is EPDM (often referred to as "rubber roofing"). Thermoset membranes make successful roofing materials because they can withstand the potentially damaging effects of sunlight and most common chemicals generally found on roofs. The easiest way to identify a thermoset membrane is by its seams, it requires the use of adhesive, either liquid or tape, to form a watertight seal at the overlaps. Thermoplastic membranes are based on plastic polymers. The most common thermoplastic is PVC (polyvinyl chloride) which has been made flexible through the inclusion of certain ingredients called plasticizers. Thermoplastic membranes are identified by seams that are formed using either heat or chemical welding. These seams are as strong or stronger than the membrane itself. Most thermoplastic membranes are manufactured to include a reinforcement layer, usually polyester or fiberglass, which provides increased strength and dimensional stability. Modified bitumen membranes are hybrids that incorporate the high tech formulation and prefabrication advantages of single-ply with some of the traditional installation techniques used in built-up roofing. These materials are factory-fabricated layers of asphalt, "modified" using a rubber or plastic ingredient for increased flexibility, and combined with reinforcement for added strength and stability. There are two primary modifiers used today: aPP (atactic polypropylene) and SBS (styrene butadiene styrene). The type of modifier used may determine the method of sheet installation. Some are mopped down using hot asphalt and some use torches to melt the asphalt so that it flows onto the substrate. The seams are sealed by the same technique.
Are You at Risk? If you aren't sure whether your house is at risk from natural disasters, check with your local fire marshall, building official, city engineer, or planning and zoning administrator. They can tell you whether you are in a hazard area. Also, they usually can tell you how to protect yourself and your house and property from damage. Protection can involve a variety of changes to your house and property, changes that can vary in complexity and cost. You may be able to make some types of changes yourself. But complicated or large-scale changes and those that affect the structure of your house or its electrical wiring and plumbing should be carried out only by a professional contractor licensed to work in your state, county, or city. One example is fire protection, by replacing flammable roofing materials with fire-resistant materials. This is something that most homeowners would probably hire a contractor to do. Replacing Your Roof The age of your roof is usually the major factor in determining when to replace it. Most roofs last many years if properly installed and often can be repaired rather than replaced. An isolated leak usually can be repaired. The average life expectancy of a typical residential roof is 15 to 20 years. Water damage to a home's interior or overhangs is commonly caused by leaks from a single weathered portion of the roof, poorly installed flashing, or from around chimneys and skylights. These problems do not necessarily mean you need a new roof. Fire-Resistant Materials Some roofing materials, including asphalt shingles and especially wood shakes, are less resistant to fire than others. When wildfires and brush fires spread to houses, it is often because burning branches, leaves, and other debris buoyed by the heated air and carried by the wind fall on roofs. If the roof of your house is covered with wood or asphalt shingles, you should consider replacing them with fire-resistant materials. You can replace your existing roofing materials with slate, terra cotta or other types of tile, or standing-seam metal roofing. Replacing roofing materials is difficult and dangerous work. Unless you are skilled in roofing and have all the necessary tools and equipment, you will probably want to hire a roofing contractor to do the work. Also a roofing contractor can advise you on the relative advantages and disadvantages of various fire-resistant roofing materials. Hiring a Licensed Contractor One of the best ways to select a roofing contractor is to ask friends or relatives for recommendations. You may also contact a professional roofers association for referrals. Professional associations have stringent guidelines for their members to follow. The roofers association in your area will provide you with a list of available contractors. Follow these guidlines when selecting a contractor... - Get three references and review past work
- Get at least three bids.
- Get a written contract and don't sign anything until you completely understand the terms.
- Pay 10 percent down or $1,000 whichever is less.
- Don't let payments get ahead of the work.
- Don't pay cash.
- Don't make final payment until you're satisfied with the job.
- Don't rush into repairs or be pressured into making an immediate decision
You've Chosen the Contractor... What About the Contract? Make sure everything is in writing. The contract is one of the best ways to prevent problems before you begin. The contract protects you and the contractor by including everything you have both agreed upon. Get all promises in writing and spell out exactly what the contractor will and will not do. ...and Permits? Your contract should call for all work to be performed in accordance with all applicable building codes. The building codes set minimum safety standards for construction. Generally, a building permit is require whenever structural work is involved. The contractor should obtain all necessary building permits. If this is not specified in the contract, you may be held legally responsible for failure to obtain the required permit. The building department will inspect your roof when the project has reached a certain stage and again whe the roof is completed. ... and Insurance? Make sure the contractor carries worker's compensation insurance and general liability insurance in case of accidents on the job. Ask to have copies of these policies for your job file. You should protect yourself from mechanics' lien against your home in the event the contractor does no pay subcontractors or material suppliers. You may be able to protect yourself by having a release of lien clause in your contract. A release of lien clause requires the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers to furnish a certificate of waiver of lien. If you are financing your project, the bank or lending institution may require that the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers verify that they have been paid, before releasing funds for subsequent phases of the project. A leaky roof can damage ceilings, walls, and furnishings. To protect buildings and their contents from water damage, roofers repair and install roofs made of tar or asphalt and gravel; rubber or thermoplastic; metal; or shingles made of asphalt, slate, fiberglass, wood, tile, or other material. Roofers also may waterproof foundation walls and floors. Keep these points in mind if you plan to have your existing roofing materials replaced: - Tile, metal, and slate are more expensive roofing materials, but if you need to replace your roofing anyway, it may be worthwhile to pay a little more for the added protection these materials provide.
- Slate and tile can be much heavier than asphalt shingles or wood shingles. If you are considering switching to one of these heavier coverings, your roofing contractor should determine whether the framing of your roof is strong enough to support them.
- If you live in an area where snow loads are a problem, consider switching to a modern standing-seam metal roof, which will usually shed snow efficiently.
For the best inspector in your neighborhood visit http://www.inspectorlocator.com/ or call 1-877 FIND-INS.
17 Ways To Save Energy by Mark H Roe NACHI Home Inspector BeSure Home Inspection With the rising cost of energy cost, here are some easy to do tips to help lower your energy bill. 1. Get a home energy audit every couple of years from a Certified NACHI Home Inspector to find ways to cut costs. 2. Check with your utility company for rebated whenever you install energy-saving equipment. 3. Add more energy-efficient insulation to your attic, perferably with a resistance rating of R-21 to R-30 4. Turn down your home thermostat two degrees and save 24 -kilowatt hours a month. It might not sound like much, but it adds up. 5. Buy a programmable thermostat, especially if your home is vacant most of the day. Set it to turn on a half hour before anyone arrives home. 6. Adjust your thermostat to a comfortable temperature and wait. Turning your thermostat up or down dramatically wasted energy and increases your heating costs. 7. Lower you hot water thermostat 10 degress, but no less than 120 degrees. You'll still get all the hot water you need and save 25-kilowatt hours a month. 8. Fix leaky faucets. One drip a second is 20 kilowatts a month. 9. Invest in weather-stripping kits if you've got drafty doors, and windows. 10. Trade your standard incandescent bulbs for compact fluorescent bulbs. They are more energy-efficent, last for years instead of months, consume little power and generate little heat. 11.Turn off your computer when not in use, or use the energy-saving"sleep"mode. 12. Seal energy leaks. Caulk over cracks and small holes around windows and exterior walls. Look carefully around plumbing pipes, telephone wires, dryer vents, sink and bathroom drains and under counter tops. 13. Participate in your power company's special energy-saving program. Some programs shut down electric appliances for short bursts of time during peak hours. You hardly notice the difference at the time, but you will notice a difference when you get your bill. 14. Buy major appliances that sport the "Energy Star" sticker. That shows the appliance meets or exceeds standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency. 15. Consider a front-loading washing machine. They use 50 percent less energy and one-third less water. Plus, they remove far more water in the rinse cycle, and that translates into big savings in dryer time. 16. When building a home or replacing a roof, select a roof based more on energy efficiency than how it looks. Light-colored roofs, such a white, galvanixed metal or cement tile, do the best job of reflecting the sun, and cool quickly at night. 17. Landscaping with the right mix of trees and shrubs can lower your energy bills by blocking winter winds or the summer sun.
As a long time professional in the real estate industry I strongly urge you to have your home tested for the presence of Radon gas. There are currently no laws requiring Radon testing in a real estate transaction; however the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the Surgeon General have recommended that ALL houses should be tested for Radon gas. In time I believe that as the public and our leaders become more informed these recommendations will become requirements. I advise you to be proactive and have your home tested, for the health and well being your entire family is at stake.
I strive to use only the best and most effective advanced tools when it comes to testing for the presence of poisonous Radon gas in your home. Radon gas testing can be scheduled along with any inspection and the results can be available in as little as 48 hours after the testing period.
Please see my website for more detailed information.
If you have any questions regarding Radon testing or to schedule a test please call today. I'm always happy to help. Scott
Radon is a carcinogenic gas that is hazardous to inhale. Build-up of Radon in homes is a health concern and many lung cancer cases are attributed to Radon exposure each year. More than 20,000 Americans die of Radon-related lung cancer each year. About 12% of all lung cancer deaths are directly attributed to Radon exposure. You cannot see, smell, or taste Radon. But it still may be a problem in your home. When you breathe air containing Radon, you increase your risk of getting lung cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General of the United States has warned that Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. If you smoke and your home has high Radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high. Testing is the only way to find out your home's Radon levels. Radon has been found in homes all over the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home through well water and your home can trap Radon inside. Any home can have a Radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, homes on a slab or a crawlspace, with or without basements. In fact, you and your family are most likely to get your greatest radiation exposure at home. That is where you spend most of your time. - Nearly 1 out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to have an elevated Radon level.
- Elevated levels of Radon gas are found in homes throughout the Triangle
- Exposure to Radon Causes Lung Cancer
The U.S. Surgeon General Richard Carmona Issues National Health Advisory on Radon Read the Surgeon General's News Release Studies show definitive evidence of an association between residential Radon exposure and lung cancer. Read the University of Iowa Hospitals & Clinics Press Release Read the EPA publication A Citizens Guide To Radon Read Home Buyer's and Seller's Guide to Radon For more information please visit the EPA Radon information index at: Radon Index And by all means, please have your home tested!
Your home is very much a living entity and should be treated as such. It rises from the ground, inhales and exhales air. It has an internal climate and is affected by the environment around it. It gets sick when systems break down and needs repair when wounded. In most cases, you will not know what is wrong until something breaks down or when what appeared to be just a stain turns into major deterioration. And just like with our own bodies, one symptom is usually a sign of a bigger problem that, if not repaired, can lead to even more and bigger problems later on. Ironically, as large of an investment as a house is, it is maintained far less frequently than a typical car though your house often costs many times as much. We are told to service the oil and perform preventative maintenance on our cars every 3-5k miles; a home rarely ever receives a check-up. Instead, problems that occur in a home are typically only addressed after something breaks or becomes very obvious. At this point the damage is done and the expense can cause a financial strain. Most homeowners give very little consideration to the fact that, if found early on, home related problems can be addressed before those small issues become large problems. How do you know something is wrong with your home to begin with? The only way to know is to have a professional inspect its components. Just like a car that goes in for a thirty point check-up, a professional home maintenance inspection will cover several hundred of the over 15,000 components your home is made up of. Based on various factors such as tree cover, weather exposure, normal wear and tear, and the finite lifespan of today's construction materials and mechanical systems, we recommend that you schedule a home maintenance inspection at least every two years. Even if you only plan to reside in the home for a short time, periodic maintenance will save you many dollars down the road. A home maintenance inspection is performed in the same manner as our full home inspection and we will generate the same easy to read comprehensive report with photos of all areas of major concern. Please call today if you have any questions or to discuss your specific needs. I'm always happy to help.
I Can help. No one really understands the hectic life of the real estate professional. All hours of the day, every day of the week you are on call. Your time is valuable, so why spend it at a home inspection if you don't have to? I can help you put more hours in your day! Impossible you say? I hold a North Carolina real estate license and I am a member of the Triangle MLS. With this I provide to you the ultimate in scheduling convenience. No need to make firm appointment times or worry about leaving the inspection with enough time for you next appointment. Is your client out of town? Is the home vacant? Do you have somewhere else to be? Or how about that Radon test your client ordered, is there anything more frustrating than having to drive out and meet an inspector just so that they can walk in an pick up a Radon test? As a member of the Triangle MLS I have access to all properties and lock boxes. No need to be concerned about fines for giving out the combination or leaving an inspection early and wondering if it was locked up afterwards. And for your added peace of mind, I am fully insured with general liability and E&O which includes an indemnification clause protecting you as the referring party. Can you see now, with me as part of your team, your busy days just got a little easier. Please visit my website for more information and to learn more about me and my services. Scott
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Scott Makseyn
Raleigh, NC
More about me
Home Helpers Inc.
Office Phone: (919) 233-8522
Cell Phone: (919) 247-4616
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