Sump Pump Operation and Inspection Guide

Sump pumps are self-activating electrical pumps that protect homes from moisture intrusion. They are usually installed below basement or crawlspace floors to remove rising groundwater and surface runoff before it has a chance to seep into the home. Accumulated water can cause interior damage and encourage the growth of mold, mildew, and fungus. Pumps should be maintained and equipped with all necessary components in order to ensure their reliability.

How a Sump Pump Works
A pit, known as a sump pit or sump trench, can be dug at the lowest part of the basement floor to capture and contain any flowing water. A sump pump sits at the bottom of this trench (or beside it) and expels excess water through a series of interconnected pipes to a suitable discharge location. The pump can sense water levels through a float that rises and falls with fluctuating water levels in the trench. The sump pump becomes activated and deactivated based on the height of the float, providing a simple, automated way to monitor and deal with variable water levels.

Types of Sump Pumps

• Pedestal sump pumps sit above the water line beside the sump trench and are not designed to get wet. Since they are not contained within the sump pit, they can be accessed easily but are also very noisy. They cost roughly $60 to $200, which is significantly less than other varieties.
• Submersible sump pumps rest underwater at the bottom of the sump pit, and are much quieter than pedestal pumps. Their oil-cooled motors and tight seals protect against water and dust and afford them a long lifespan. They can cost up to $600.
• Water-powered sump pumps are normally used as backups and kick in when the main pump experiences an electrical or mechanical failure.

Maintenance

• The pump must be kept clean and free of debris. The inlet screen prevents the passage of dirt and other solid material from entering the pump, but it can become overwhelmed. Cleanings should occur often for pumps that run constantly.
• Inspectors should make sure that the float is not tangled or jammed in one position. A sump pump with a jammed float is useless because it will not sense when it should turn on and shut off.  
• The pump can be tested by pouring water into the pit to make sure it becomes activated and expels the water. The homeowner should seek professional assistance if the pump does not activate.
• Maintenance should take place annually, and when the home is sold.
• When testing the pump, no one should ever reach into the pit. The float can be reached and manipulated with a household item such as a golf club (with a rubber handle) or anything else non-conductive that happens to be lying around. 

Inspectors should check for the presence of the following:

• a GFCI. There is considerable debate among inspectors concerning whether or not a sump pump should be connected to a GFCI. It is possible that a GFCI can prevent electrocution, but it is extremely unlikely that a sump pump will energize water in the first place. It is much more likely that a GFCI will trip during safe conditions and deactivate the sump pump when it is needed. A sump pump is among the most critical of all household appliances, and its deactivation, especially if the tenants are not home, could allow catastrophic building damage. Codes recommend that appliances in basements and crawlspaces be connected to GFCIs to reduce the chance of electrical shock, but this advice is often ignored due to these concerns over nuisance tripping.
  
  
• an alarm. Sump pumps can burn out, lose power, become clogged or misaligned, or malfunction in a variety of other ways. It is valuable to have a warning device installed that will signal water build-up. These alarms can alert homeowners or neighbors of flooding so that it can be resolved before water damage occurs. Alarms are especially important in residences that are not occupied for long periods of time. Inspectors should keep in mind that, while an alarm can be helpful, it is not a requirement.
  
  
• a check valve. This device is the same diameter as the discharge pipe into which it fits and is usually a different color. A check valve should be installed in order to prevent pumped water in the discharge line from re-entering the sump pit when the device is turned off. Without this valve, the pump will have to work twice as hard to remove the same column of water, which causes unnecessary strain to the pump components. A check valve can also prevent the rare yet disturbing possibility that a discharge line connected to a stream or pond will back-siphon into the sump pit.
  
  
• a backup power source. Power outages are most likely to happen during heavy rains and floods, which are situations when the sump pump is most needed. For this reason, combined with the nuisance-tripping from GFCIs, sump pumps should have a backup power source to rely on. A pump powered by a battery or the home's water pressure can also be installed as a backup. Installation of a backup power source or backup pump is not a requirement, but can be offered to a client as a recommendation.
  
  
• that the pit that is large enough for the pump. The sump pit does not need to be constructed from any particular material, as long as it is solid and provides permanent support for the pump. It must, however, be large enough to allow the pump room to work properly. Some homeowners use a 5-gallon bucket as a sump pit, but this is insufficient. For most homes, the sump pit should not be less than 24 inches deep and 18 inches wide. One of the most common reasons why sump pumps fail is that the float gets jammed between the pump and the pit because the pit is too cramped.
  
  
• a cover. The sump pit should be covered to prevent water from evaporating into the home.
  

Discharge Location
Inspectors are not required to check for a proper discharge location. They can note an improper discharge if they see it, but searching outdoors for the discharge is not recommended. The following is good general information that can be passed on to the homeowner:

• Water must be discharged at least 20 feet from the building.
• Water should not drain back into the house! Cycling water will place unnecessary strain on the pump and can weaken the structure's foundation.
• Water should not drain onto a neighbor's property without their approval.
• Many jurisdictions do not permit pumped water into public sewer systems.
• Pumped water should never drain into a residence's septic system. Especially during heavy rain, a septic drainfield will become saturated and will struggle to handle the normal flow of water from the house. Additional water from the sump pump can damage the septic system.
  

In summary, sump pumps are used to remove excess water from homes that would otherwise cause property damage. There are multiple types, but they all monitor water levels and ensure that they do not rise higher than predetermined levels. Proper maintenance and inspection will ensure pump efficiency and prolong their lifespan.

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Modular vs. Manufactured Homes

While the terms "modular home" and "manufactured home" refer to two very different things, they are sometimes used interchangeably. Perhaps some of this confusion stems from the fact that modular homes are, in fact, manufactured ("manufactured" might be an unfortunate label.) Also, traditional "site-built" homes are not necessarily better than modular homes, despite the stigma associated with their assembly-line origin. There have been cases where Realtors and builders of manufactured homes have misrepresented manufactured homes as modular homes, and buyers were not informed enough to know the difference. Everyone (especially inspectors, who make their living examining residences) should understand the distinguishing features of these two types of houses.  
Modular Homes Modular homes are residences constructed entirely in factories and transported to their sites on flatbed trucks. They are built under controlled conditions, and must meet strict quality-control requirements before they are delivered. They arrive as block segments and are neatly assembled, using cranes, into homes that are almost indistinguishable from comparable ones built on-site. Wind and rain do not cause construction delays or warp building materials. In addition, modular homes:

• must conform to the same local, state and regional building codes as homes built on-site;
• are treated the same by banks as homes built on-site. They are easily refinanced, for example;
• follow the same market trends as site-built houses;
• must be structurally approved by inspectors;
• can be of any size, although the block sections from which they are assembled are uniformly sized;
• are often more basic than homes built on-site, but they tend to be sturdier;
• are highly customizable. Design is usually decided by the buyer before construction has begun; and 
• generally take eight to 14 weeks to construct.  Differing from a site-built home, the foundation can be dug at the same time that the house is being constructed.

Proponents of modular homes claim that their indoor, environmentally controlled construction affords them greater strength and resilience than homes built on-site. They also tend to be constructed using more precise building techniques and with more building material than comparable site-built residences. One reason for this is that they must be able to withstand the stress of highway transport. A study by FEMA found that modular homes withstood the wind and water from Hurricane Andrew better than most other homes in the area. They take less time to construct than site-built homes, are more energy-efficient, and generally cost less.  
Manufactured Homes The term "manufactured home" is the most recent label for what were once called "mobile homes" or "trailers." They are relatively cheap, small, and are held to less stringent standards than modular and site-built homes. Their obvious advantages are their mobility and affordability, factors that allow buyers to make home purchases without a serious monetary or geographical commitment. They are available in three sizes that escalate as follows: "single-wide," "double-wide" and "triple-wide." In addition, manufactured homes:

• conform only to Housing and Urban Development (HUD) code. Each home contains a red tag that confirms that the unit was manufactured in compliance with this code;
• are inspected, but do not have to be structurally approved by an inspector;
• are manufactured in sections at factories;
• are never more than one story;
• do not have a foundation; 
• tend to lose value over time because they are difficult to expand or improve;
• are transported to the site on their own wheels;  
• are transported on steel chassis that are never removed;   
• are often placed on property owned by others, such as public land that is leased by the homeowner;
• are treated as a separate lending category from modular and on-site built homes; and 
• are rarely custom-designed. The buyer can choose from homes that have already been built and receive it within days.

Despite their manufacturing process, modular homes are essentially the same as homes that are built on-site. They are treated the same under the law, and their basic structural features are almost indistinguishable from site-built homes, once assembled. Manufactured homes are relatively small, inexpensive, mobile residences that require a smaller commitment than is required by modular and site-built homes. It is important to understand the differences between these home types in order to reduce the influence of stigmas, misrepresentation and ignorance.

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Efflorescence for Inspectors.

  Efflorescence is an accumulation of minerals and salts on masonry surfaces, such as brick, cement, and sometimes stone. Inspectors should know how to prevent against and remove this unsightly residue. They must also be aware that, while efflorescence itself is not dangerous, it indicates the presence of excess water, which can lead to more serious structural and health issues.     How Efflorescence Forms The earth contains natural salts that are present in the raw materials that make up masonry products, such as concrete, asphalt and stucco. These salts remain trapped within masonry in solid form until they are dissolved into water, which usually makes its way into the material through small pores. Water can originate from rain, sprinklers, household leaks, or any number of other places. Cold, dry air will draw this liquid back out of the material where it evaporates, depositing the salt as a white crystalline growth on the surface. Efflorescence typically forms during cold, dry weather shortly after it has rained and moisture has entered the masonry. It can occur year-round, but it is most likely to form during the winter due to low temperatures.  
Identifying Efflorescence As with mold, the appearance of efflorescence varies greatly. It can be powdery, it can have sharp edges and be easy to spot, or it can have indistinct edges. It can cover a large area as a fine dust, or form large individual crystals. Its appearance depends partly on the type of salt from which it is composed, but humidity also plays a role in this determination. In exceptionally dry climates, water can evaporate before it even reaches the surface, in which case the salt will accumulate unseen beneath the surface. In humid conditions, moisture may take a long time to evaporate, allowing the slow growth of "whispers" projecting from the surface.   Inspectors should already know how to distinguish mold (pictured at right) from efflorescence, but it is possible for homeowners to confuse the two. The expense of a mold test can be avoided if the substance in question can be identified as efflorescence. Here are a few tips that inspectors can offer their clients so that they understand the differences:

• Pinched between the fingers, efflorescence will turn into a powder, while mold will not.
• Efflorescence forms on inorganic building materials, while mold forms on organic substances. However, it is possible for mold to consume dirt on brick or cement.
• Efflorescence will dissolve in water, while mold will not.
• Efflorescence is almost always white, yellow or brown, while mold can be any color imaginable. If the substance in question is purple, pink or black, it is not efflorescence.
  

Aside from mold, the following conditions can result from excess moisture in a residence:

• fungi that rot wood;
• water damage to sheetrock;
• reduced effectiveness of insulation.

Inspectors should note the presence of efflorescence in their inspection reports because it generally occurs where there is excess moisture, a condition that also encourages the growth of mold. An exception can be made during the first few years of a building's construction when efflorescence will appear as a result of moisture locked within the masonry in a process called "new building bloom." This moisture comes from water added during the manufacturing or mixing process that will undoubtedly contribute to efflorescence. This type of efflorescence will appear all over the masonry material and will continue to accumulate until the initial water supply is exhausted, which can take up to a year. Efflorescence that appears locally and after the "new building bloom" is over is a symptom of excess moisture that can be problematic. The source of this moisture should  be determined and corrected.  
Prevention and Removal of Efflorescence

Prevention

• An impregnating hydrophobic sealant can be applied to a surface to prevent the intrusion of water. It will also prevent water from traveling to the surface from within. In cold climates, this sealant can cause material to break during freeze/thaw cycles.
• During home construction, bricks left out overnight should be kept on palletes and be covered. Moisture from damp soil and rain can be absorbed into the brick.

Removal

• Pressurized water can sometimes be used to remove or dissolve efflorescence.
• An acid, such as diluted muriatic acid, can be used to dissolve efflorescence. Water should be applied first so that the acid does not discolor the brick itself. Following application, baking soda can be used to neutralize the acid and prevent any additional damage to the masonry. Muriatic acid is toxic, and contact with skin or eyes should be avoided. 
• A strong brush can be used.
  

Note:  The use of water to remove efflorescence may result in the re-absorption of crystals into the host material, from which they may later reappear as more efflorescence. It is advisable that if water is used in the removal process that it is dried off very quickly.
 

In summary, efflorescence is a harmless yet unsightly accumulation of salts on masonry surfaces. Its presence indicates excess water, a condition that can damage interiors and encourage the growth of mold. Inspectors should know how to remove efflorescence from surfaces, and educate their clients about its identification and significance.

 For more information please visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Fire extinguishers are devices commonly found indoors and are used to douse fire and prevent its spread. They are small metal canisters that contain compressed gas (usually nitrogen) that, when activated, propel a directed spray of flame-retardant chemicals. Fire extinguishers are only effective if building occupants understand where and why they are used.
Fire Type   Fire extinguishers are distinguished based on the types of fires on which they are effective. These fires are classified by their fuel source and assigned identifying letters as follows:

"A" class - Fires that result from ordinary combustibles such as wood and paper. "B" class - Fires that result from combustible liquids such as kerosene, gasoline, oil, and grease. "C" class - Fires of an electrical nature. These result from the combustion of circuit breakers, wires, outlets, and other electrical devices and equipment. Extinguishers designed to handle this type of fire cannot use chemicals that are conductive since conductive agents increase the risk of electric shock to the operator. "D" class - Fires resulting from combustible metals, such as sodium, potassium, titanium, and magnesium. These fires occur mostly in chemical laboratories and are rare in most other environments. "K" class - These types of fires consume vegetable oils, animal fats, and generally happen in kitchens.   *Note* Although technically, the letter rankings listed above refer to fire types, these symbols can also be used to identify the extinguishers themselves. For instance, an extinguisher that uses CO2 can be called a "CO2 extinguisher" or a "BC extinguisher".

Extinguisher Types   No fire extinguisher can be safely and effectively used for every type of fire. Some contain chemicals that are ineffective in certain situations and can even cause harm to the operator if misapplied. To prevent confusion, extinguishers are classified by the type of chemical agents they contain. A few of the most common extinguisher types are listed below:

Dry Chemical - There are two types of fire extinguishers that use a dry chemical. One is called "multi-purpose dry chemical" and uses ammonium phosphate as the extinguishing agent, which is effective on "A", "B", and "C" class fires. This chemical is corrosive and must be scrubbed from surfaces after use. These types of extinguishers are very common and are found in schools, homes, hospitals, and offices. Sodium bicarbonate is used in extinguishers known as "regular dry chemical", which are capable of handling "B" and "C" class fires. These extinguishers are found in garages, kitchens, and laboratories. Sodium bicarbonate is easy to clean and non-toxic.

Carbon Dioxide - These extinguishers contain liquid CO2 that is expelled as a gas. They are effective against "B" and "C" class fires. Unlike other chemicals, CO2 does not leave a harmful residue and is environmentally friendly. It also poses very little danger to electronics and is effectively employed in laboratories, computer rooms, and other areas with sensitive equipment.

Water Mist - These extinguishers are most suited for "A" class fires. However, they cannot be used in "B" and "C" class fires because water is conductive. Since the agent used is water, these types of extinguishers are inexpensive and environmentally friendly.

Wet Chemical Fire Extinguishers - These devices are designed to combat "K" class fires and commonly use potassium acetate. They are appropriately employed in commercial kitchens and restaurants, especially around deep fryers. The chemical is emitted as a fine mist that does not cause grease to splash onto other surfaces. They can also be used in "A" class fires.    

Inspection   Inspectors should:

• Check that a portable fire extinguisher exists within a 30-foot travel distance of commercial-type cooking equipment that uses cooking oil or animal fat.
• Check for the presence of portable extinguishers and determine that they are located in conspicuous and readily available locations immediately available for use and not obstructed or obscured from view.
• Confirm that access to extinguishers is not obstructed.
• Make sure that the hose (if one equipped) is intact and not obstructed.
• Make sure the the pressure dial reads in the green or "charged" area. It should also be clear and readable.
• Check that the pull pin is securely fastened within the handle and held in place by the tamper seal.
• Check for visible dents or cracks in the extinguisher body.
• Check that the extinguisher is in its proper location and mounted correctly.
• Check for modifications that might reduce the extinguisher's functionality.
  

Inspectors should not do the following:

• Test fire extinguishers.
• Determine the adequate number of fire extinguishers needed or their ratings.
• Ignite or extinguish fires.
  

Extinguisher testing and replacement
The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) recommends that extinguishers should be tested every 12 years or 5 years, depending on the type. The standard method of testing, "hydrostatic", is conducted underwater where the cylinders are subjected to pressures that exceed their ratings. Vessels that fail the test are condemned and destroyed while the rest are reassembled and put back into service.

According to the NFPA, extinguishers should be destroyed if any of the following conditions are present (they should not be tested):

a. Where repairs by soldering, welding, brazing, or use of patching compounds exist.
b. Where the cylinder threads are worn, corroded, broken, cracked, or nicked.
c. Where there is corrosion that has caused pitting, including pitting under a removable nameplate or nameband assembly.
d. Where the fire extinguisher has been burned in a fire.
e. Where a calcium chloride type of extinguisher agent was used in a stainless steel fire extinguisher.
f. Where the shell is of copper or brass construction joined by soft solder or rivets.
g. Where the depth of a dent exceeds 1/10 of the greatest dimension of the dent if not in a weld, or exceeds 1⁄4 in. (0.6 cm) if the dent includes a weld.
h. Where any local or general corrosion, cuts, gouges, or dings have removed more than 10 percent of the minimum cylinder wall thickness.
i. Where a fire extinguisher has been used for any purpose other than that of a fire extinguisher.

When should a fire extinguisher be used?
Small fires can be controlled through the use of household or commercial fire extinguishers. A household extinguisher can often completely douse a very small fire and prevent the need for professional assistance. Even if a fire cannot be completely doused, a homeowner can potentially control a blaze long enough with an extinguisher for firefighters to arrive. Fire extinguishers should not be used if the operator is not sure they have the proper type of extinguisher, if they are not sure how to use it, or if they cannot avoid smoke or are in imminent danger.   If the operation of an extinguisher will place a building occupant in danger, they should evacuate the building and wait for fire crews to arrive.

What is on an extinguisher's label?

• Essential information about the types of fires they can combat. Newer devices have pictures that correspond directly to the fire types listed above. Older models have letters serve the same purpose.
• A numerical rating that designates the extinguishing potential for that particular model (class "A" and "B").
• Instructions for operation.
• A tag that indicates if and when an inspection occurred.
  

Do fire extinguishers expire?   Fire extinguishers expire and they do this for a few different reasons. One common way is that over time, the seal on the neck will weaken and allow compressed gas to escape. Extinguishers that have lost much of their pressure will not operate. Pressure within an extinguisher can be conveniently checked through a pressure gauge. "ABC" class extinguishers (ammonium phosphate) have the tendency to fail due to solidification of the chemical in the canister base. Homeowners and inspectors can delay this process by periodically shaking the extinguisher. Expensive extinguishers that have expired, especially those designed for commercial use, can be refilled and resealed by companies who specialize in this service. Inexpensive models are disposable.

Unfortunately, an expiration date cannot be fully trusted and there is no foolproof way to know if an extinguisher is no longer functional. Due to the extremely destructive potential of fires and the relatively low cost of extinguishers, it is advisable to replace or recharge questionable extinguishers.
In summary, extinguishers are classified based on their chemical ingredients, all of which have their own strengths and limitations. It is important to know what type of extinguisher combats what type of fire.  Fire extinguishers are critical indoor components that must be maintained and inspected regularly.

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 TPR (temperature pressure relief) valves are safety devices installed on water heating appliances such as boilers and domestic water supply heaters. TPRs are designed to automatically release water in the event that pressure or temperature in the water tank exceeds safe levels.   If temperature sensors and safety devices such as TPRs malfunction, water in the system may become superheated (exceed the boiling point). Once the tank ruptures and water is exposed to the atmosphere it will expand into steam almost instantly and occupy approximately 1,600 times its original volume. This process can propel a heating tank like a rocket through multiple floors, causing personal injury and extensive property damage.   Water-heating appliance explosions are rare due to the fact that they require a simultaneous combination of unusual conditions and failure of redundant safety components. These conditions only result from extreme negligence and the use of outdated or malfunctioning equipment.   The TPR valve will activate if either water temperature (measured in degrees Fahrenheit) or pressure (measured in pounds per square inch (PSI)) exceed safe levels. The valve should be connected to a discharge pipe (also called a drain line) that runs down the length of the water heater tank. This pipe is responsible for routing hot water released from the TPR to a proper discharge location.   It is critical that discharge pipes meet the following requirements, which can be found in InterNACHI's Water Heater Discharge Piping mini-course, at www.nachi.org/education. A discharge pipe should:

1. Be constructed of an approved material such as CPVC, copper, polyethylene, galvanized steel, polypropylene, or stainless steel. PVC and other non-approved plastics should not be used since they can easily melt.
2. Not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the valve it serves (usually no smaller than 3/4").
3. Not reduce in size from the valve to the air gap (point of discharge).
4. Be as short and as straight as possible so as to avoid undue stress on the valve.
5. Be installed so as to drain by flow of gravity.
6. Not be trapped since standing water may become contaminated and backflow into the potable water.
7. Discharge to a floor drain, to an indirect waste receptor, or to the outdoors. 
8. Not be directly connected to the drainage system to prevent backflow of potentially contaminating the potable water.
9. Discharge through a visible air gap in the same room as the water-heating appliance.
10. Be first piped to an indirect waste receptor such as a bucket through an air gap located in a heated area when discharging to the outdoors in areas subject to freezing, since freezing water could block the pipe.
11. Not terminate more than 6 inches (152 mm) above the floor or waste receptor.
12. Discharge in a manner that could not cause scalding.
13. Discharge in a manner that could not cause structural or property damage.
14. Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by occupants because discharge indicates that something is wrong and to prevent unobserved termination capping.
15. Be piped independent of other equipment drains, water heater pans, or relief valve discharge piping to the point of discharge.
16. Not have valves anywhere.
17. Not have tee fittings.
18. Not have a threaded connection at the end of the pipe so as to avoid capping.
    

Leakage and Activation   A properly functioning TPR valve will eject a powerful jet of hot water from the discharge pipe when fully activated, not a gentle leak. A leaky TPR valve is an indication that it needs to be replaced. In the rare case that the TPR valve does activate, the homeowner should immediately shut off the water and contact a qualified plumber for assistance and repair.   Inspectors should recommend that homeowners test TPR valves monthly, although inspectors should never do this themselves because they may be held liable for any damage that might occur if the valve fails. The inspector should demonstrate to the homeowner how the main water supply can be shut off and explain that it can be located at the home main water supply valve or at the water supply shut-off for the appliance on which the TPR is mounted.   TPR Data Plate Information

• The pressure at which a TPR valve will activate is printed on a data plate located beneath the test lever. This amount should not exceed the working pressure limit marked on the data plate of the water-heating appliance it serves.
• The BTU/HR rating marked on the water-heating appliance data plate should not exceed that of the TPR, which is marked on the TPR data plate.
• TPR valves with missing data plates should be replaced.

Although a TPR valve might never become activated, it is an essential safety component on boilers and domestic water heaters. Guidelines concerning these valves and their discharge pipes reflect real hazards that every homeowner and home inspector should take seriously. More information about this subject can be found in InterNACHI's Water Heater Discharge Piping mini-course, InterNACHI's Plumbing Inspection course or by contacting a qualified plumber. 

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 Clothes dryers evaporate the water from wet clothing by blowing hot air past them while they tumble inside a spinning drum. Heat is provided by an electrical heating element or gas burner. Some heavy garment loads can contain more than a gallon of water, which during the drying process will become airborne water vapor and leave the dryer and home through an exhaust duct (more commonly known as a dryer vent).   A vent that exhausts moist air to the home exterior has a number of requirements:

1. It should be connected. The connection is usually behind the dryer but may be beneath it. Look carefully to make sure it's actually connected!
2. It should not be restricted. Dryer vents are often made from flexible plastic or metal duct, which may be easily kinked or crushed where they exit the dryer and enter the wall or floor. This is often a problem since dryers tend to be tucked away into small areas with little room to work. Vent hardware is available which is designed to turn 90° in a limited space without restricting the flow of exhaust air. Restrictions should be noted in the inspector's report. Airflow restrictions are a potential fire hazard!
3. One of the reasons that restrictions are a potential fire hazard is that along with water vapor evaporated out of wet clothes, the exhaust stream carries lint - highly flammable particles of clothing made of cotton and polyester. Lint can accumulate in an exhaust duct, reducing the dryer's ability to expel heated water vapor, which then accumulates as heat energy within the machine. As the dryer overheats, mechanical failures can trigger sparks, which can cause lint trapped in the dryer vent to burst into flames. This condition can cause the whole house to burst into flames! Fires generally originate within the dryer but spread by escaping through the ventilation duct, incinerating trapped lint and following its path into the building wall.

House fires caused by dryers are far more common than generally believed, a fact that can be appreciated upon reviewing statistics from the National Fire Protection Agency. Fires caused by dryers in 2005 were responsible for approximately 13,775 house fires, 418 injuries, 15 deaths, and $196 million in property damage. Most of these incidents occur in residences and are the result of improper lint cleanup and maintenance. Fortunately, these fires are very easy to prevent.
The recommendations outlined below reflect International Residential Code (IRC) SECTION M1502 CLOTHES DRYER EXHAUST guidelines:

M1502.5 Duct construction.
Exhaust ducts shall be constructed of minimum 0.016-inch-thick (0.4 mm) rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Exhaust ducts shall not be connected with sheet-metal screws or fastening means which extend into the duct.

This means that the flexible, ribbed vents used in the past should no longer be used. They should be noted as a potential fire hazard if observed during an inspection.

M1502.6 Duct length. The maximum length of a clothes dryer exhaust duct shall not exceed 25 feet (7620 mm) from the dryer location to the wall or roof termination. The maximum length of the duct shall be reduced 2.5 feet (762 mm) for each 45-degree (0.8 rad) bend and 5 feet (1524 mm) for each 90-degree (1.6 rad) bend. The maximum length of the exhaust duct does not include the transition duct.

This means that vents should also be as straight as possible and cannot be longer than 25 feet. Any 90° turns in the vent reduce this 25-foot number by 5 feet since these turns restrict airflow.
A couple of exceptions exist:

1. The IRC will defer to the manufacturer's instruction, so if the manufacturer's recommendation permits a longer exhaust vent, that's acceptable. An inspector probably won't have the manufacturer's recommendations, and even if they do, confirming compliance with them exceeds the scope of a General Home Inspection.
2. The IRC will allow large radius bends to be installed to reduce restrictions at turns, but confirming compliance requires performing engineering calculation in accordance with the ASHRAE Fundamentals Handbook, which definitely lies beyond the scope of a General Home Inspection!

M1502.2 Duct termination.
Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building or shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer's installation instructions. Exhaust ducts shall terminate not less than 3 feet (914 mm) in any direction from openings into buildings. Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination.

Inspectors will see many dryer vents terminate in crawlspaces or attics where they deposit moisture, which can encourage the growth of mold, wood decay, or other material problems. Sometimes they will terminate just beneath attic ventilators. This is a defective installation. They must terminate at the exterior and away from a door or window! Also, screens may be present at the duct termination and can accumulate lint and should be noted as improper. 

M1502.3 Duct size.
The diameter of the exhaust duct shall be as required by the clothes dryer's listing and the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Look for the exhaust duct size on the data plate.

M1502.4 Transition ducts.
Transition ducts shall not be concealed within construction. Flexible transition ducts used to connect the dryer to the exhaust duct system shall be limited to single lengths, not to exceed 8 feet (2438 mm) and shall be listed and labeled in accordance with UL 2158A.

In general, a home inspector will not know specific manufacturer's recommendations or local applicable codes and will no be able to confirm the dryer vent's compliance to them, but will be able to point out issues that may need to be corrected.  

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  Fan Function   Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and moist air to the home exterior. Typical systems consist of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof. The fan may be controlled in one of several ways:

• Most are controlled by a conventional wall switch
• A timer switch may be mounted on the wall
• A wall-mounted humidistat can be pre-set to turn the fan on and off based on different levels of relative humidity

Newer fans may be very quiet but work just fine. Older fans may be very noisy or very quiet. If an older fan is quiet, it may not be working well. Inspectors can test for adequate fan airflow with a chemical smoke pencil or a powder puff bottle but such tests exceed InterNACHI's Standards of Practice.
Bathroom ventilation fans should be inspected for dust buildup that can impede airflow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are attracted to the fan because of its static charge. Inspectors should comment on dirty fan covers.
Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms. This includes bathrooms with windows since windows will not be opened during the winter in cold climates.   Defects
The following conditions indicate insufficient bathroom ventilation:

• Moisture stains on walls or ceilings
• Corrosion of metal
• Visible mold on walls or ceilings
• Peeling paint or wallpaper
• Frost on windows
• High levels of humidity

The most common defect related to bathroom ventilation systems is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate at the home exterior. The most common improper terminations locations are:

• Mid-level in the attic. These are easy to spot.
• Beneath the insulation. You need to remember to look. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed.
• Beneath attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home exterior, not just beneath it.

Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom... you have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes poorly-installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections.   Ducts which leak or terminate in attics can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moist air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation or other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health or decay problems from mold or to damage materials such as drywall. Moisture also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation.
Mold Perhaps the most serious consequence of an improper ventilation setup is the potential accumulation of mold in attics or crawl spaces. Mold may appear as a fuzzy, thread-like, cobwebby fungus although it can never be identified with certainty without being lab tested. Health problems caused by mold are related to high concentrations of spores in indoor air. "Spores" are like microscopic seeds, released by mold fungi when they reproduce. Every home has mold. Moisture levels of about 20% in materials will cause mold colonies to grow. Inhaling mold spores can cause health problems in those with asthma or allergies and can cause serious or fatal fungal infections in those with lung disease or compromised immune systems.
Mold is impossible to identify visually and must be tested by a lab in order to be confidently labeled. Inspectors should refrain from calling anything "mold" but should refer to anything that appears as mold as a material that "appears to be microbial growth". Inspectors should include in their report and in the inspection agreement signed by the client a disclaimer clearly stating that the General Home Inspection is an inspection for safety and system defects, not a mold inspection.
Decay, which is rot, is also caused by fungi. Incipient (early) decay cannot be seen. By the time decay becomes visible, wood may have lost up to 50% of its strength.
In order to grow, mold fungi require that the following conditions are present:

• Oxygen
• Temperatures between approximately 45° F and 85° F
• Food. This includes a wider variety of materials found in homes
• Moisture

If insufficient levels of any of these requirements exist, all mold growth will stop and fungi will go dormant. Most are difficult to actually kill.
Even though mold growth may take place in the attic, mold spores can be sucked into the living areas of a residence by low air pressure. Low air pressure is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms, dryers, kitchens and heating equipment.
Improper ventilation Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that stale air is properly exhausted.   Ventilation ducts must:

• Terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope.
• Contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry.
• Be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder.
• Be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts will encourage condensation.
• Protrude at least several inches from the roof.
• Be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements.
• Installed to manufacturer's recommendations.
  

The following tips are helpful although not required. Ventilation ducts should:

• Be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop.
• Have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to backflow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces.

Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors into the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues.   

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA 

Fiberglass is a type of fiber primarily composed of glass that is used in a wide variety of applications but is predominantly employed as a residential and commercial thermal insulator. Fiberglass is also used to create products as varied as automobile bodies, boat hulls, arrows, roofing, shower curtains, and tent poles. As an insulator it slows the spread of heat, cold and sound in structures, cars, and aircraft. By trapping pockets of air, it keeps rooms warm in the winter and cool in the summer and thereby serves as a convenient method to increase energy efficiency. Fiberglass is an attractive choice for home insulation because it poses no fire hazard. According to some estimates, thermal insulation (made from fiberglass and its alternatives) conserves 12 times as much energy as is lost in its production and it may reduce residential energy costs by up to 40%.   Glass has been woven into small amounts of course fibers for many centuries, even by the ancient Egyptians and Phoenicians, but fiberglass did not exist in its modern form until 1932 as a result of an accident. A researcher named Dale Kleist was attempting to create a vacuum-tight seal between two glass blocks when a jet of high-pressure air turned a stream of molten glass into fine fibers. He had unintentionally discovered an effective method to produce large amounts of fiberglass particles, a method that he would refine in later years. Fiberglass was trademarked in 1938 as Fiberglas® and was subsequently used in clothing, boat hulls, fishing rods, and eventually automobile bodies in 1953 when Fiberglas® partnered with Chevrolet.   In homes, fiberglass insulation can be installed in various parts of the building envelope. It can be pink, yellow, white, or green, depending on its manufacturer and has a spongy feel. Commonly found in blanket form, called batts, it is available in bags containing standard pre-cut lengths and widths. Batts are typically stapled into place. It also comes in bags as loose fill that can be blown into attic, wall, and floor cavities. Most fiberglass batts are manufactured with a paper or foil backing that faces the direction of warmth. When installed correctly, it creates a continuous membrane that retards the passage of moisture and reduces the likelihood that fibrous particles will enter the living space. It is important that the backing always faces the warm side of the structure in which the insulation is installed.   Batts are available in different thicknesses, with the thicker batts offering a higher resistance to heat flow. This resistance is known as R-value, with common R-values for walls being R11 to R19 and R30 to R38 for ceilings.
Hazards   For home inspectors, it is important to understand the health risks associated with exposure to fiberglass insulation. These risks are not at present fully understood or agreed upon, but it is generally accepted that in certain situations it has the potential to cause physical harm. Small particles that come into contact with skin can lodge in pores and cause itchiness, rashes, and irritation. When inhaled, particles can cause coughing, nosebleeds, and other respiratory ailments. Very fine airborne particles are capable of becoming deeply lodged in the lungs and are believed by many to cause cancer and other serious afflictions. OSHA considers this threat to be serious enough that it requires fiberglass insulation to carry a cancer warning label.   When it is disturbed, fiberglass insulation releases particulates into the air which may be inhaled by those installing or removing it or by property inspectors crawling through attics or crawlspaces.   If you must disturb fiberglass insulation, wear gloves, long-sleeved shirts, pants, and goggles. A respirator with a particulate filter should be used to prevent inhalation of the potentially dangerous fibers.   Before removing fiberglass insulation, it is a good idea to dampen the area to prevent particles from entering the airspace. Afterwards, wash your hands with water, preferably cold water, as warm water can expand pores which have trapped particles and allow them to travel deeper into your skin.
An Alternative - Cellulose   Cellulose, a plant-based insulator, is the oldest form of home insulation and at times has been produced from sawdust, cotton, straw, hemp, and other plant materials with low thermal-conductivity. Today, it is produced from recycled newspapers that are later treated with chemicals that reduce its ignition potential. It became popular in the 1970's due to the oil crisis although it suffered from competition with fiberglass insulation as a result of fire-standards lobbying by the fiberglass and mineral companies. Cellulose must be chemically treated in order to reduce its flammable properties, although it always has the potential to burn. These chemicals, usually sodium borate, boric acid, or ammonium sulfate, are generally considered safe for human contact.   This material provides a number of advantages over fiberglass - it is inexpensive, significantly reduces airflow, and is not believed to pose any serious health risks. On the other hand, it is dustier, seriously weakened when damp, and generally offers less insulation than fiberglass, although this last point is not always true. It is possible that the material can produce harmful offgasses from the ink contained in the newspapers but insulation is generally contained in sealed locations so this is not likely to be a health concern. As is true with fiberglass, protect your lungs with a breathing mask when handling cellulose insulation.   Fiberglass and cellulose are both used as insulators although they offer somewhat different advantages. Cellulose is cheap and safe although it isn't as flame resistant and it should be avoided in humid climates. Fiberglass is fire resistant and is not as affected by moisture although it is probably more dangerous. Also, keep in mind that there are other types of thermal insulation available that are not covered in this article, such as rock wool, vermiculite, and various two-part foams.

For more information visit: http://www.homeinspectorusa.biz

        The word foundation is a timeless metaphor of strength and security, and people quite naturally have genuine concerns about the foundations on which their homes rest. For this reason, people need to be educated about foundations in general and specific types in particular, and I include such information in every report. This is what I include about slab on-grade foundations, and you are welcome to use all or any part of it that you might find useful.

This residence has a bolted, slab foundation. Such foundations are the most modern, but they can vary considerably from older ones that have no moisture barrier beneath them and no reinforcing steel within them to newer ones that have moisture barriers beneath them and adjustable reinforcing steel within them. This type is called a post-tension slab, but is often impossible to distinguish one slab type from another in which even the size and spacing of the bolts can vary, although most are concealed. Our inspection of slabs conforms to industry standards. We examine the visible portion of the stem walls on the exterior of the structure for any evidence of significant cracks or structural deformation. However, we do not move furniture or lift carpeting and padding to look for cracks, and we do not use any specialized tools or measuring devices to establish relative elevations or determine any degree of differential settling. Significantly, many slabs are built or move out of level, but the average person would not realize this until there is a difference of more than one inch in twenty feet, which most authorities describe as being tolerable. Interestingly, many slabs are found to contain cracks when the carpet and padding are removed, but there is no absolute standard for evaluating them. However, those that are less than 1/4" and which exhibit no significant vertical or horizontal displacement are not regarded as being structurally threatening. They typically result from common shrinkage, but can also be caused by a deficient mixture of concrete, deterioration through time, seismic activity, adverse soil conditions, and poor drainage, and if they are not sealed they can allow moisture to enter a residence, and particularly if the residence is surcharged by a hill or a slope, or if downspouts discharge adjacent to the slab. However, in the absence of any major defects, we may not recommend that you consult with a structural engineer or a foundation contractor, but this should not deter you from seeking the opinion of any such expert, and we would be happy to refer one. 

For more information please visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

        John M. Acaron, CHI, CMI

www.HOMEINSPECTORUSA.biz

                 (850-814-3889)

Deal Killer ("DK") is one of the most controversial of all home inspection topics, the one that stirs ire among veteran inspectors and that draws defensive reactions from some real estate professionals everywhere. The very idea that professional real estate agents are the primary source of home inspector referrals is a clear and obvious conflict of interest. Yet most home buyers never seem to give this a thought. They simply hire the agent's favorite home inspector, without asking if this is the best one available. Let the client do his own research and select his professional home inspector.

The proper job description of real estate agents is representing the best interest of clients. The highest expression of true representation is to provide total, complete, and unabridged disclosure. When a buyer asks an agent to recommend a professional home inspector, the actual question, regardless of how it is stated, is "who is the best home inspector available?" Real estate agents who recommend someone they do not regard as the best are not representing the client's interests and are thereby guilty of misrepresentation. If the ethical commitment to a client is not sufficient motivation to recommend a quality home inspector, real estate agents should consider the matter of personal liability. Every defect that is overlooked by a marginal home inspector is a potential lawsuit, and such suits are commonly filed against agents who compromise the interests of their clients.

The derogatory phrase "DK" is somewhat used by a few real estate agents to describe independent professional home inspectors who give buyers objective information in an inspection report, which may lead the buyer to renegotiate or to look at other properties. Some real estate agents view independent home inspectors as a challenge to their ability to generate income. They view these "DK" as foes and will try to use a number of tactics to control the inspector selection process. Think twice, Think about liability.

Transactions close when buyers are satisfied with the condition of the property. The best professional home inspectors find more of the conditions that raise dissatisfaction. Less experienced inspectors don't disclose as many of these conditions, posing less risk to the agent's income. For some agents, the temptation to recommend a less thorough inspector is too great to resist. When temptation prevails, "STOP" let the client make his choice.

But what exactly does that mean? The name suggests someone who reports nonexistent problems or who describes defects in an alarmist fashion. But professional home inspectors of that kind are rare. The epithet is more commonly applied to those with the greatest ability to discover problems in a home. Once a professional home inspector has been branded with the "DK" label, disrepute spreads through the grapevine of local real estate agents. When new agents join a real estate office, they are often advised by some of the veteran agents not to use Inspector X, because of his "DK" status. Avoid the engagement in this practice.  Remember: A happy client results in many future referrals.

Being a thorough, detail and unbiased professional home inspector is often mistaken as a nick-pick inspector. However, some home inspectors use canned software package, often call a check list formatted with prewritten statements. These home inspectors are for the most part very popular because the end result is a check list that is difficult to understand and pretty much cumbersome, softening out the end results. Is this the common practice of all real estate agents? Absolutely not! So, what is the solution?  Let the client make his own research and select his own professional home inspector. This is call:  "PEACE OF MIND"                              for information visit:  www. HOMEINSPECTORUSA.biz