John M. 's Blog

That's a lot of money for only a few hours work! Home Inspection

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:03:00 -0500

Many times we here: "That's a lot of money for only a few hours work!" As more and more home inspectors use time-saving, report generating software, include pictures (worth a thousand words) and even generate their reports on-site, they also start to make it look easy. I recently ran across a version of the story in How to Become a Marketing Superstar, a book by Jeffrey J. Fox. Anyway, the story goes as follows: That's a lot of money for only a few hours work!

Pablo Picasso, the painter, was dining at a restaurant in New York City. A fan introduced herself to him and gushed at how thrilled she was to meet the great artist and how she loved his work. Encouraged by Mr. Picasso's polite acceptance, the fan begged, "Oh, Mr. Picasso, would you draw me a sketch?" Picasso grabbed some paper, and with a pen, promptly sketched the waiters passing parfaits. As the woman reached for the sketch, Pablo Picasso said, "Madame. That will be $10,000." Shocked, she replied, "But that only took you 5 minutes." "No Madame," replied Picasso, "it took me 50 years."

Picasso priced his service to its value, not to the cost of manufacture. Picasso did not price his service based on the cost of the paper plus the cost of ink plus some hourly wage... and nor should a home inspector.

"You get what you pay for.........

For more information relative to professional a home inspection visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Mistakes to Avoid

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 08:17:19 -0500

"panama city beach, panama city, santa rosa beach, seagrove beach, seacrest beach, rosemary beach, grayton beach, seaside, destin, sandestin, watercolor, alys beach, wild heron, crystal beach, carillon beach, callaway, lynn haven, springfield, gainesville and surrounding cities" 3 Deadly Mistakes Every Home Buyer should avoid

Deadly Mistake #1: Thinking you can't afford it. Today, buying the home of your dreams is easier than ever before. Many people who thought that buying the home they wanted was simply out of their reach are now enjoying a new lifestyle in their very own new home.
Buying a home is the smartest financial decision you will ever make. In fact, most American and Canadian homeowners would be financially broke at retirement if it weren't for one saving grace - the equity in their home. Furthermore, mortgage rates are more flexible today than ever and tax allowances favor home ownership. Real estate values have always risen steadily. Of course there are peaks and valleys, but the long term the trend is a consistent increase. This means that every month when you make a mortgage payment the amount that you owe on the home goes down and the value typically increases. This "owe less-worth more" situation is called equity build-up and is the reason you can't afford not to buy.

Even if you have little money for a down payment or credit problems, chances are that you can still buy that new home. It just comes down to knowing the right strategies, and working with the right people. See below.

Deadly Mistake #2: Not hiring a buyer's agent to represent you. Buying property is a complex and stressful task. In fact, it is often the biggest single investment you will make in your lifetime. At the same time, real estate transactions have become increasingly complicated. New technology, laws, procedures and competition from other buyers require buyer agents to perform at an ever-increasing level of professionalism. For many homebuyers, the process turns into a terrible, stressful ordeal. In addition, making the wrong decisions can end up costing you thousands of dollars. It does not have to be this way!
Work with a buyer's agent who has a keen understanding of the real estate business and who is on your side. Buyer's agents have a fiduciary duty to you. That means they are loyal to only you and are obligated to look out for your best interests. Buyer's agents can help you find the best home, the best lender and the best inspector. Best of all, in most cases, the buyer's agent is paid out of the seller's commission, even though he/she works for you. Trying to buy a home without an agent at all is, well... unthinkable.

Deadly Mistake #3: Getting a cheap inspection.
Buying a home is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make. This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection. The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the home being inspected. The additional cost of hiring a certified proffesional inspector is almost insignificant. As a homebuyer, you have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages and trying to get the best deals. Do not stop now. Do not let your real estate agent, a patty-cake inspector or anyone else talk you into skimping here. HOMEINSPECTORUSA is an independent professional home inspection company that cares only for his clients. Education, Experiance and Expertise set us apart from the average home inspector.

HOMEINSPECTORUSA inspectors perform the best inspections by far. We are degree engineers, Mold certified technicians with vast experience in residential & commercial construction and certified InterNACHI inspectors. InterNACHI certified inspectors do more, they deserve more, and yes they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor...and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve. Inspected Once, Inspected Right!

IT'S NOT NECESSARY TO LEAVE YOUR COMPUTER, SIMPLY "CLICK BELOW" AND SEND YOUR PHONE NUMBER TO MY CELL PHONE... I'LL CALL YOU WITHIN MINUTES.
If you want the best Home Inspectors and MOLD technicians serving the panhandle of Florida , HOMEINSPECTORUSA is your choice!

Can mold cause health problems?

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 07:55:04 -0500

Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens, irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances.

Allergic reactions to mold are common and include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. The most common health problems caused by indoor mold are allergy symptoms. Although other and more serious problems can occur, people exposed to mold commonly report problems such as:

Nasal and sinus congestion

Cough Wheeze/breathing difficulties

Sore throat

Skin and eye irritation

Upper respiratory infections (including sinus)

Are the risks greater for some people? There is wide variability in how different people are affected by indoor mold. However, the long term presence of indoor mold growth may eventually become unhealthy for anyone. The following types of people may be affected more severely and sooner than others:

Infants and children

Elderly people

Individuals with respiratory conditions or sensitivities such as allergies and asthma

Persons having weakened immune systems (for example, people with HIV infection, chemotherapy patients, organ transplant recipients)

In some individuals, exposure to indoor mold can also can lead to asthma or to a lung disease resembling severe inflammatory asthma called allergic bronchopulmonary aspergillosis. This latter condition, which occurs only in a minority of people with asthma, is characterized by wheezing, low-grade fever, and coughing up of brown-flecked masses or mucus plugs. Skin testing, blood tests, X-rays, and examination of the sputum for fungi can help establish the diagnosis. Corticosteroid drugs are usually effective in treating this reaction; immunotherapy (allergy shots) is not helpful.

Fungi or microorganisms related to mold / fungi may cause other health problems similar to allergic diseases. Some kinds of Aspergillus may cause several different illnesses, including both infections and allergy. These fungi may lodge in the airways or a distant part of the lung and grow until they form a compact sphere known as a "fungus ball." In people with lung damage or serious underlying illnesses, Aspergillus may grasp the opportunity to invade the lungs or the whole body. Those with special health concerns should consult a medical professional if they feel their health is affected by indoor mold.

For more information please visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Our Promise & Commitment to You

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 07:56:00 -0500

Choosing the right Certified Home, Commercial & Mold Inspector can be difficult. Unlike most professionals, you probably will not get to meet me until after you hire me. Different Home, Commercial & Mold Inspectors have varying qualifications, equipment, experience, reporting methods, and yes different pricing. One thing for sure is that a comprehensive visual Home Inspection requires work, a lot of work. Ultimately a thorough Home, Commercial & Mold Inspection depends heavily on the individual Inspector's qualifications and own effort. Our knowledge, experience, expertise, engineering background and construction (residential & commercial) set us apart from the average inspector. If you honor HOME INSPECTOR USA (HIUSA) by permitting us to visualy inspect your prospective home or property, we guarantee that we will give you our very best effort.

We at HOME INSPECTOR USA, we're committed to providing the highest level of professional service in the home inspection industry at competitive rates. HOME INSPECTOR USA programs conform to state, EPA, VA, HUD, InterNACHI and FHA standards. HOME INSPECTOR USA is the premier home inspection and mold inspection company in the area. We are renowned in our area for "ZERO" tolerance. We work for you!

This is our promise to you!

Sincerely yours,

John M. Acaron, CPI, CMI

Mechanical Engineering

TD Mechanical Engineering

Certified Home & Mold Inspector

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HOME INSPECTOR USA, LLC Staff Credentials

Bachelor Degree in Mechanical Engineering (BSME)
Bachelor Degree in Science & Technology (BS&T)
Bachelor Degree in Chem-Bio-Chem (BSChem-Bio)
Technical Degree in Mechanical Engineering (TDME)
Certified Home Inspector by NACHI # 04071975
Certified Mold Inspector by PRO-LAB # PLP11611
Certified Air Consultants: # IAC2-00-3392
Member of the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI)
Member of Bay County Association of Realtors (BCAR)
Member of the American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME)
Member of Environmetal Solutions Association (ESA)
Member of Indoor Air Quality Association (IAQA) Member of Panama City
Member of the US Chamber of Commerce (USCC)
Member of PRO-LAB Professional Partners Program
Member of AARP
Member of Better Business Bureau (BBB) pending
Completed over 29 projects (single, multi-family, commercial & federal government construction projects) Bay County, USA & overseas.
Managed and Inspected large-scale federal government construction facilities from ground breaking to completion and outfitting.
46 years staff combined engineering experience, and expertise in construction, operations, system implementation and management of commercial and federal government projects (small & large).
28 years Air Force & Navy (Engineering)
Bi-lingual (English & Spanish)

Residential Foundation Insulation (crawl space)

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 04 Aug 2008 10:01:51 -0500

Crawlspaces
In many respects, crawlspace walls are just short basement walls. Exterior foam and foam-form insulation systems can be used. However, interior crawlspace wall insulation is usually either foam board or draped insulation. If foam insulation is used, it extends from the top of the foundation to the top of the footing. The cavity formed by the rim joist should be filled with fiberglass batts or a foam-in-place product. Most fire codes allow up to two inches of polystyrene exposed on the interior of a crawlspace before covering is required.

If crawlspaces are insulated with fiberglass or mineral wool batts, the batts are usually tacked to the sill plate and draped down and onto the floor. Four foot- wide batts incased in a plastic cover work well when installed horizontally. Conventional 16- or 24-inch-wide batts leave voids between the batts and do not perform as well.

Some jurisdictions require a ventilated crawlspace to help control moisture. Vent requirements are significantly reduced if the floor of the crawlspace is covered with plastic sheeting with joints overlapped and taped to reduce crawlspace moisture. If required, install operable vents so they can be closed. Don't forget to fill the rim joist space with fiberglass batt or foamed-in-place foam to complete the insulation treatment. The floor over the crawlspace can also be insulated. This raises the thermal envelope from the crawlspace walls to the space floor. While this technique offers many advantages, piping must be freeze proofed and heating and cooling ducts must also be insulated.

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

GOT MOLD? Need an Mold screening?

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 19:26:58 -0500

How do I know if MOLD is growing in my home? Should I get the MOLD tested to find out what kind it is? If you can smell a musty odor or see mold, you have a mold problem. Reliable sampling for mold can be expensive since it requires special equipment and training. Testing is not generally recommended as a first step. HOME INSPECTOR USA offers free Mold screening when conducting a comprehensive home inspection. If there is an indication of active organic microbial present during the visual home inspection, the inspector will be recommending testing (Air, Bio-tape, or Swab) to determine the concentration of organic microbial spores present. This process will take several days since samples will have to be taken, cataloged, sealed and FedEx to a certified laboratory for analysis.

Now Remember: Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a humid or wet surface and begin growing. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Mold produces allergens (substances that cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people. Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold.

No Home is Perfect: Keep things in perspective. Don't kill your deal over things that don't matter. It is inappropriate to demand that seller address deferred maintenance, conditions already listed on the seller's disclosure, or nit-picky items.

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

What Really Matters

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 19:23:50 -0500

Buying a Home? Why you need a visual Comprehensive Home Inspection? The inspection is a visual analysis to detect major defects and deficiencies associated with the property on the time and day of the inspection. The process can be stressful. A Comprehensive visual Home Inspection is supposed to give you peace of mind, but often has the opposite effect. You will be asked to absorb a lot of information in a short period of time. This often includes a comprehensive written Home Inspection report, punch list, digital photographs, environmental reports, and what the Home Inspector himself says during the Home Inspection. All this combined with the seller's disclosure, county records, utility companies, appraisers, mortgage companies and what you notice yourself makes the experience even more overwhelming. What should you do? Relax: Most of your Home Inspection will be maintenance recommendations and minor imperfections. These are nice to know about. However, the issues that really matter will fall into four categories:

1. Major defects. An example of this would be a structural failure.
2. Things that lead to major defects. A small roof-flashing leak, for example.
3. Things that may hinder your ability to insure or occupy the home.
4. Safety hazards, such as an exposed live buss bar in the electric panel.

Anything in these categories should be addressed. Often a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4). Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during the inspection. Realize that the sellers are under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in the Home Inspection report. The home inspection process is non-destructive, and is generally non-invasive. It is performed in this manner because, at the time we inspect the dwelling, you do not own the property. You cannot authorize the disassembly or destruction of what does not belong to you.

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Hot Water and How to Heat It

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 19:13:54 -0500

There are several water-heating options available to you. While you are taking steps to save on home heating, don't forget to see what you can do to lower your water heating costs. Check with your fuel supplier for more information, and consider alternatives to your current method.

Storage-type water heaters Most homes have storage-type water heaters in which water in a tank is heated by a gas or oil burner or by electric elements. Traditional storage heaters have been improved with such features as through-the-wall venting for combustion units and better insulation, making them less expensive to operate. Units designed to give even greater efficiency are now available.

Instantaneous water heaters Instantaneous water heaters which heat water as needed and have no storage tank are available, but not widely. They require little space, but they usually cost more than storage-type water heaters and more than one unit might be required to meet your needs. For electric instantaneous water heaters, upgraded wiring is often necessary.

Integrated (combination) hot water systems Systems that combine space heating and water heating are becoming more popular. Water can be heated with a boiler or a storage-tank water heater. The hot water can be used for space heating as well as domestic hot water needs. Space heating methods include baseboard radiators, in-floor radiant heating and forced air heating when piped to an air handler. Some of these systems can also be used for pool and spa heating and snow-melting applications. Combo systems vary widely in efficiency and must be carefully designed to give satisfactory service.

Solar water heaters In solar water heaters, energy from the sun is collected by solar panels and transferred by circulating fluids to a storage tank. These heaters are typically used with an electric water heater, or one fueled by oil, natural gas or propane, which acts as a back-up for overcast days. Solar collector panels can be mounted on any unobstructed roof, wall or ground frame that faces between southeast and southwest. Solar water heaters are designed to provide between 35 and 75% of your hot water needs, with the back-up providing the balance.

For more information visit: Panhandle of Florida premier home inspoection company

Cooling Systems (air conditioning)

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 19:10:21 -0500

Two types of units cool an entire house: a central air conditioner or a heat pump. If you only need to cool a specific area, a window air conditioning unit could be your most energy-conserving choice. Regardless of what type you are considering, remember that models will vary in efficiency ratings and efficiency has a direct impact on operating costs, so optimizing efficiency should be a priority. Consider buying an ENERGY STAR®-qualified model. Central cooling If you decide you want to cool your entire house, you should consider which system to install - central air conditioning or a heat pump - when reviewing your home's heating needs. An air conditioner is actually a heat pump that can only cool. *Remember: your heating decisions can affect your cooling options.
Duct work for central air Duct work is generally needed to carry cool air throughout the house in a central air conditioning system. If you have a forced air heating system you can usually use the same ducts for cooling. If you do not have duct work, you can look into installing it or consider air conditioning technologies that have been developed for homes without ducts. These alternatives are more costly, so if you are considering them, investigate your options with your heating/cooling contractor.

Mini splits Mini splits are systems suited to homes without a central air-distribution system. No duct work is required. The system consists of two components: an outdoor condensing unit, and an indoor evaporator and fan. The indoor section can frequently be mounted on any interior or exterior wall, and is much quieter than a window unit. Window units Window air conditioners are effective if you only need to cool a specific area of your home. They will cost less to install than a central air conditioning system. If you don't have duct work, they might be your most practical choice. It is important to match the capacity of the window air conditioner with the size of the area to be cooled. Window units should either be covered in winter or, better still, removed to minimize heat loss. Other Ways to Cool Your House The following measures will help keep your home more comfortable:

Install ceiling fans to circulate air.
If you're planning for the long term, plant trees that lose their leaves in the fall on the east, south and west side of your house.
Close the drapes or blinds on south and west-facing windows during sunny summer days to reduce heat gains.
Turn off lights and appliances when they are not in use.
Install awnings for patio doors and windows that face the sun.

For more information visit: Panama City Beach Home Inspector

HOW HOT IS TOO HOT!

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Fri, 25 Jul 2008 21:08:36 -0500

We have all heard to set your water heater at 120 degrees Fahrenheit. But why? Temperatures above 120 degrees are great for washing dishes. Safety is the reason and high temperature water is a serious hazard. Following is information about how long it takes for high temperature water to produce severe 2nd and 3rd degree burns on adult skin:

· 160 degrees F. - about 1/2 second

· 150 degrees F. - about 1 1/2 seconds

· 140 degrees F. - less than 5 seconds

· 130 degrees F. - about 30 seconds

· 120 degrees F. - greater than 5 minutes

Children's skin is much more sensitive and will produce severe burns in less time. Excessive water temperature is a serious matter and a good home inspector will look for it. Unfortunately, the temperature setting can be changed at any time by anyone so you should check for yourself. Inexpensive thermometers can be purchased to test the delivery temperature at a tap nearest the water heater. We recommend never setting the water heater temperature above 130 degrees F., for any reason.

Sometimes we see homeowners set water heaters too high to compensate for an inadequately sized unit. Another reason folks justify an excessive temperature setting is when it takes a long time for the hot water to reach certain fixtures. Others just like the high temperature water. Solar water heaters are notorious for having excessively high delivery water because of missing, damaged or improperly set tempering valves. For this reason we suggest that solar water heaters be evaluated by a solar system expert at transfer of ownership and/or every two years. We also suggest you check your own delivery temperature today, especially if you have children. Maybe this will keep you out of hot water!

For more information: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Radon Facts

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Fri, 25 Jul 2008 20:56:29 -0500

Radon is a naturally occurring gas caused by the breakdown of uranium and radium-containing rock deposits in the earth's crust. Chronic exposure to radon can cause or contribute to lung cancer.

EPA studies show that people who are exposed to radon have higher incidences of lung cancer. There is also some evidence that radon in water may increase the incidence of stomach cancer.

Where does radon in my water come from?

As water moves through the ground, radon gas can be carried in the water to your tap. When well water is agitated at warm temperatures in the home, radon is released into the air. When you shower, bathe or simply run the tap, the radon in the water is liberated into the air, forming radon gas that can be inhaled in. According to the EPA, radon levels in ground water are highest in New England and the Appalachian uplands of the Mid-Atlantic and Southern States. Certain areas around the Rocky Mountains, California, Texas and the upper Midwest also have elevated levels of radon in the ground water. These areas are most likely to have elevated radon in water levels, but radon in water can occur anywhere in the US.

If I have radon in my water, what should I do?

Simple aeration removes up to 99% of radon from water. Radon is rarely a problem in public systems because the water is aerated during water treatment. Unfortunately, this does not occur in water being drawn from a private well. Aeration treatment equipment aerates the water, then vents the gas to the outside. This treatment option requires that the gas be vented above the roof line, otherwise the gas may enter the home.

Another option is granular activated carbon filtration. In this type of treatment, the water is filtered through carbon which adsorbs the radon. This type of filter requires relatively large amounts of carbon and a long contact time to be efficient. The carbon from a radon filtration system may have to be handled specially for disposal since the potential build up of radioactivity can make it hazardous.

For more info: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Air Quality in the Home

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 21:01:01 -0500

Quick Facts...

Indoor air quality can be worse than that of outdoor air.
Problems can arise from moisture, insects, pets, appliances, radon, materials used in household products and furnishings, smoke and other sources.
Effects range from minor annoyances to major health risks.
Remedies include ventilation, cleaning, moisture control, inspections, and following manufacturers' directions when using appliances and products.

Research has shown that the quality of indoor air can be worse than that of outdoor air. Many homes are built or remodeled more tightly, without regard to the factors that assure fresh and healthy indoor air. Our homes today contain many furnishings, appliances and products that can affect indoor air quality. Signs of indoor air quality problems include:

Unusual and noticeable odors.
Stale or stuffy air.
Noticeable lack of air movement.
Dirty or faulty central heating or air conditioning equipment.
Damaged flue pipes or chimneys.
Unvented combustion air sources for fossil fuel appliances.
Excessive humidity.
Presence of molds and mildew.
Health reaction after remodeling, weatherizing, using new furniture, using household and hobby products, or moving into a new home.
Feeling noticeably healthier outside.

Common Sources of Air Quality Problems Poor indoor air can arise from many sources. At least some of the following contaminants can be found in almost any home:

Moisture and biological pollutants such as molds, mildew, dust mites, animal dander and cockroaches from high humidity levels, inadequate ventilation, and poorly maintained humidifiers and air conditioners.
Combustion products, including carbon monoxide, from unvented fossil fuel space heaters, unvented gas stoves and ovens, and backdrafting from furnaces and water heaters.
Formaldehyde from durable press draperies and other textiles, particle board products such as cabinets and furniture framing, and adhesives.
Radon, a radioactive gas from soil and rock beneath and around the home's foundation, groundwater wells and some building materials.
Household products and furnishings such as paints, solvents, air fresheners, hobby supplies, dry-cleaned clothing, aerosol sprays, adhesives, and fabric additives used in carpeting and furniture which can release volatile organic compounds.
Asbestos found in most homes more than 20 years old. Sources include deteriorating, damaged or disturbed pipe insulation, fire retardant, acoustical material and floor tiles.
Lead from lead-based paint dust created when removing paint by sanding, scraping or burning.
Particulates from dust and pollen, fireplaces, wood stoves, kerosene heaters and unvented gas space heaters.
Tobacco smoke, which produces particulates, combustion products and formaldehyde.

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

HVAC System Design & Installation

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 20:56:38 -0500

The goal for a HVAC system is to provide proper air flow, heating, and cooling to each room. This sets out key criteria that describe a quality system, and key design and installation
considerations that should be met to achieve this goal. The following contains detailed information on design, fabrication, installation, and performance testing.
Criteria for a Quality HVAC System
An HVAC system should:

Be properly sized to provide correct air flow, and meet room-by-room calculated heating and cooling loads.
Be installed so that the static air pressure drop across the handler is within manufacturer and design specifications to have the capacity to meet the calculated loads.
Have sealed supply ductwork that will provide proper air flow.
Be installed with a return system sized to provide correct return air flow.
Have sealed return ductwork that will provide proper air flow to the fan, and avoid air entering the HVAC system from polluted zones (e.g., fumes from autos and stored chemicals, and attic particulates).
Have balanced air flows between supply and return systems to maintain neutral pressure in the home.
Minimize duct air temperature gain or loss between the air handler and room registers, and between return registers and the air handler.
Be properly charged with refrigerant.
Have proper burner operation and proper draft.

Procedures to Design and Install an Air Distribution System
The following steps should be followed in the design and installation of the HVAC system to ensure efficiency and comfort:

Determine room-by-room loads and air-flows using ACCA Manual J calculation procedures (or substantially equivalent).
Layout duct system on floor plan, accounting for the direction of joists, roof hips, fire-walls, and other potential obstructions. Determine register locations and types, duct lengths, and connections required to produce layout given construction constraints.
Size duct system according to ACCA Manual D calculation procedures (or substantially equivalent).
Size HVAC equipment to sensible load using ACCA Manual S procedures (or substantially equivalent).
Install equipment and ducts according to design specifications, using installation requirements and procedures from the manufacturers' specifications. The duct system should be substantially air tight.
Charge the system appropriately, and verify charge with the evaporator superheat method or subcooling method (or substantially equivalent).
Check for proper furnace burner operation and fire-box drafting.
Test the system to ensure that it performs properly by determining that the system is properly sized,does not leak, and either has proper plenum static pressures or proper room and return airflows, and proper plenum static pressures.

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

"The Professional Home Inspector's Role - In a Real Estate Transaction"

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 19:02:17 -0600

When legal agreements start to come into play, such as during a home-buying process, a professional home inspector is hired to come out to assess and inspect the property in its entirety. The professional home inspector has become part of the real estate transaction. The home inspector plays a crucial role in the decision making process and in the outcome of the real estate transaction.

No matter how great the condition of the home, the very nature of a home inspection is to uncover issues that a prospective buyer might have a problem with, so prepare for that eventuality. Yes, there may be issues with the home to be purchased and yes, there might be complications, but don't let that detract from the joy that you as a Realtor should be feeling about finding the right home for our client. The real estate process should be a fun one and the inspection process is no different.

The home inspector's report is an important tool in Real Estate transactions. It is also the only document that details the product being bought and sold. Once conditions are defined, it is up to the buyer to decide if the current condition of the home will meet his financial and family needs. The buyer decides what is acceptable and what isn't. Sellers are not required to make the corrections, although re-negotiations are often the result of facts documented in the home inspection report. It is information needed to make an educated business decision. You as the selling Realtor will have a great opportunity to show your client that you are on his side by negotiating the deal for him as a result of the findings during the home inspection. We owe it to our clients, we work for them.

Often an inspector finds himself inspecting a house that it is sold "As Is," a common yet unsettling term used in Real Estate business. "As Is" expresses a sellers unwillingness to be accountable for conditions present in the home, customarily included in non-owner occupied homes, repossessions or bank owned properties. "What is?" should be a buyer's first response when involved in an "As Is," transaction. An amateur roof installation or improper wiring of the electrical system will ultimately impact a buyer's family budget. A home inspection defines "What is" information needed to determine if the sales price accounts for the repair or replacement cost of items that the home will need. "As Is," a take it or leave it mentality, is often flexible. Re-negotiations, based on inspection facts, between motivated buyers and sellers have proven to be very successful. Agreeable terms can usually be reached with positive results. Remember; "A happy client = A good deal!" (Referrals)"

Working for our clients and letting them know that you are working hard for their own benefit can bring them closer to us and most likely we will be remembered for ever (Referrals). The home inspector best interest is to provide all parties involved with an unbiased and honest assessment of the condition of the property inspected. The real estate transaction process should be a team effort between all parties involved with only one common objective; that we all come out as "a winner". Shopping for an inspector for your client (by price) is usually a disaster. You should search for the most qualified inspectors in your area, and let the client decide for himself. The purchase of a house is probably the most important and single largest investment of our clients will ever make. Do not blow it by suggesting to a client the less than the best inspector because of "price". Good inspectors know what they are worth and so should you. "Team work" "Success breeds success"

"Inspected once, inspected right!" "Anyone else is just looking around!"

Courtesy of: John M. Acaron, HOMEINSPECTORUSA

"Just what does a Home Inspector do?"

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sun, 10 Feb 2008 10:20:28 -0600

John M. Acaron, CHI, CMI

www.HOMEINSPECTORUSA.biz

Office: (850-814-3889)

Think of a professional home inspector as a detective searching throughout the house for clues that lead to a conclusion of the home's overall condition. A certified home inspector performs a very important service. He inspects an existing home using professional standards and equipment as a measure to accurately report the condition of the home. A professional home inspector will inspect the property to the highest professional and ethical standards in the industry and provide the client with an accurate, comprehensive, easy-to-read, written assessment report thereafter. The inspector does not evaluate the home for cost or value. A home inspection is a non-invasive examination of the condition of a home performed on specific time and date. The home inspection is carried out by a professional home inspector, who usually is certified and has specialized equipment (tools), education and training to ascertain and carry out such task.

To be a competent and professional home inspector it must be fully educated & trained in the proper operation of all commonly found home systems. These systems include:

•v Structural Components (foundations, floors and walls),

•v Exterior Components (siding paint, windows, decks, garage doors, etc.),

•v Roofing (coverings, flashings, chimneys, etc.),

•v Plumbing (piping, fixtures, faucets, water heating and fuel storage systems, etc.),

•v Electrical (wiring, main service panels, conductors, switches, receptacles, etc.),

•v Heating (equipment, safety controls, distribution systems, chimneys, etc.),

•v Air Conditioning and Heat Pumps (cooling and air-handling equipment, controls and ducting, etc.),

•v Interior (partitions, ceilings, floors, railings, doors and windows, etc.),

•v Insulation and Ventilation (attic, walls, floors, foundations, kitchen and bathrooms, etc.)

Why a Home Inspection? Public awareness, increased liability, and the growing demand for qualified information have catapulted the home inspector into the public spotlight. When purchasing a home, many home buyers have saved literally thousands of dollars through information provided by the home inspector. People who have owned a home for several years have benefited through the home inspector's knowledge of maintenance, repairs and experienced eyes to avert potential problems. In many areas where disasters have occurred, homeowners have relied on inspectors to help them identify any damage resulting from storms, earthquakes, etc.

The home inspection report must be neatly written and conform to the accepted standards of this industry. With proper education, training and experience a home inspector can be an effective asset to the home buyer. A home "cannot fail" an inspection, as there is no score or passing grade given. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate what components and systems may need a major or minor repair or replacement. The home inspector play a very important role in the decision making process and in the result of the real estate transaction.A home inspection has become an intricate part of the real estate transaction. ****** Inspected Once, Inspected Right! ******

What Really Matters

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sun, 10 Feb 2008 10:16:56 -0600

1. Major defects. An example of this would be a structural failure.
2. Things that lead to major defects. A small roof-flashing leak, for example.
3. Things that may hinder your ability to insure or occupy the home.
4. Safety hazards, such as an exposed live buss bar in the electric panel.

HOMEINSPECTORUSA

"The Professional Home Inspector's Role - In a Real Estate Transaction"

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sat, 05 Jan 2008 21:03:18 -0600

"Inspected once, inspected right!" "Anyone else is just looking around!"

HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Crawlspaces.....Hidden Risks and Dangers

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:34:49 -0600

Have you ever inspected a crawlspace? I don't mean, "poke your head in" type of inspection. I mean a "down and dirty, on your hands and knees, with cobwebs in your face," type of inspection. If the answer is yes, I'm sure you couldn't wait to get out of there. If you answered no, however, you should wonder if you are missing vital information on a home that your buyer needs to know about.

It has been my experience that if a crawlspace is inaccessible, then it does not get inspected. The financial consequences from this omission could be severe. The code of ethics, in some cases, allows for an inspector to avoid a crawlspace inspection if access is difficult or dangerous. I have been in many crawlspaces and can tell you that with proper attire and equipment, more than 99% of these crawls are eligible for inspection, and yet they go unnoticed. Your buyer can be at risk for some potential threats that crawlspaces can offer including:

· Vertical foundation cracks
· Pooling or standing water
· Rust on the HVAC supply and returns
· Leaky plumbing
· Voids in the seams between the foundation walls and the footings
· Rodent infestation
· Cracked sewer lines
· No sewer rodding station... etc.

There are even more severe problems that, at times, would be considered a deal breaker and yet they go without inspection. Some of these major concerns are:

· Mold infestation, caused by severe humidity and poor ventilation
· Foundation cracks, both vertical and horizontal, which show unusual movement
· Foundation shifting
· Termite and other insect infestation
· Radon gas
· Improperly installed support beams... etc.

How do we, as realtors, provide a broader safety net for our buyers? We must insure that inspectors are reputable, certified and experienced. The American Society of Home Inspectors and The National Association of Certified Home Inspectors have active continuing education requirements. It is our obligation to aid our buyers and insist on crawlspace inspections so that they have the whole picture. We can reduce the risk of future financial burden on our buyers by being pro-active on these and all inspection issues.

For more information contact: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Protect Your Property from Water Damage

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sun, 04 Nov 2007 10:36:08 -0600

Water may be essential to life, but as a destructive force, water can diminish the value of your home or building. Homes, as well as Commercial buildings, can suffer water damage that results in increased maintenance costs, a decrease in the value of the property, lowered productivity and potential liability associated with a decline in indoor air quality. The best way to protect against this potential loss is to ensure that the building components, which enclose the structure, known as the building envelope, are water resistant. Also, you will want to ensure that manufacturing processes, if present, do not allow excess water to accumulate. Finally, make sure that the plumbing and ventilation systems, which can be quite complicated in buildings, operate efficiently and are well maintained. This provides some basic steps for identifying and eliminating potentially damaging excess moisture.

Identify and repair all Leaks and Cracks

The following are common building-related sources of water intrusion:

Windows and Doors: Check for leaks around your windows, storefront systems and doors.
Roof: Improper drainage systems and roof sloping reduce roof life and become a primary source of moisture intrusion. Leaks are also common around vents for exhaust or plumbing, rooftop air conditioning units or other specialized equipment.
Foundation and Exterior Walls: Seal any cracks and holes in exterior walls, joints and foundations. These often develop as a naturally occurring byproduct of differential soil settlement.
Plumbing: Check for leaking plumbing fixtures, dripping pipes (including fire sprinkler systems), clogged drains (both interior and exterior), defective water drainage systems and damaged manufacturing equipment.
Ventilation, Heating and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Systems: Numerous types, some very sophisticated, are a crucial component to maintaining a healthy, comfortable work environment. They are comprised of a number of components (including chilled water piping and condensation drains) that can directly contribute to excessive moisture in the work environment. In addition, in humid climates, one of the functions of the system is to reduce the ambient air moisture (relative humidity) level throughout the building. An improperly operating HVAC system will not perform this function.

Prevent Water Intrusion Through Good Inspection and Maintenance Programs

You can help prevent water intrusion and excessive moisture levels by regularly inspecting the following elements of your building to ensure they remain in good condition.

Flashings and Sealants: Flashing, which is typically a thin metal strip found around doors, windows and roofs, are designed to prevent water intrusion in spaces where two building materials come together. Sealants and caulking are specifically applied to prevent moisture intrusion at building joints. Both must be maintained and in good condition.
Vents: All vents should have appropriate hoods, exhaust to the exterior and be in good working order.
Review the use of manufacturing equipment that may include water for process or cooling. Ensure wastewater drains adequately away with no spillage. Check for condensation around hot or cold materials or heat transfer equipment.
Heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems are much more complicated in commercial buildings. Check for leakage in supply and return water lines, pumps, air handlers and other components. Drain lines should be clean and clear of obstructions.Ductwork should be insulated to prevent condensation on exterior surfaces.
Humidity: Except in specialized facilities, the relative humidity in your building should be between 30% and 50%. Condensation on windows, wet stains on walls and ceilings, and musty smells are signs relative humidity may be high. If you are concerned about the humidity level in your building, consult with a mechanical engineer, contractor or air conditioning repair company to determine if your HVAC system is properly sized and in good working order. A mechanical engineer should be consulted when renovations to interior spaces take place.
Moist Areas: Regularly clean off, then dry all surfaces where moisture frequently collects.
Expansion Joints: Expansion joints are materials between bricks, pipes and other building materials that absorb movement. If expansion joints are not in good condition, water intrusion can occur.

Protection From Water Damage

Interior Finish Materials: Replace drywall, plaster, carpet and stained or water damaged ceiling tiles. These are not only good evidence of a moisture intrusion problem, but can lead to deterioration of the work environment, if they remain over time.
Exterior Walls: Exterior walls are generally comprised of a number of materials combined into a “wall assembly.” When properly designed and constructed the assembly is the first line of defense between water and the interior of your building. It is essential that they be maintained properly (including regular refinishing and/or resealing with the correct materials).
Storage Areas: Storage areas should be kept cleaned and allow air to circulate to prevent potential moisture accumulation.

Act Quickly if Water Intrusion Occurs

Label shut-off valves so that water supply can be easily closed in the event of a plumbing leak. If water intrusion does occur, you can minimize the damage by addressing the

problem quickly and thoroughly. Immediately remove standing water and all moist materials, and consult with a building professional. Should your building become damaged by a catastrophic event such as fire, flood or storm, take appropriate action to prevent further water damage once it is safe to do so. This may include boarding up damaged windows,

covering a damaged roof with plastic sheeting or removing wet materials and supplies. Fast action on your part will help minimize the time and expense for repairs, resulting in a

faster recovery.

For more information contact: Panama City Home Inspector

Air Quality in the Home

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sun, 04 Nov 2007 10:31:28 -0600

Quick Facts..........

Indoor air quality can be worse than that of outdoor air.
Problems can arise from moisture, insects, pets, appliances, radon, materials used in household products and furnishings, smoke and other sources.
Effects range from minor annoyances to major health risks.
Remedies include ventilation, cleaning, moisture control, inspections, and following manufacturers' directions when using appliances and products.

Signs of indoor air quality problems include:

Unusual and noticeable odors.
Stale or stuffy air.
Noticeable lack of air movement.
Dirty or faulty central heating or air conditioning equipment.
Damaged flue pipes or chimneys.
Unvented combustion air sources for fossil fuel appliances.
Excessive humidity.
Presence of molds and mildew.
Health reaction after remodeling, weatherizing, using new furniture, using household and hobby products, or moving into a new home.
Feeling noticeably healthier outside.

Common Sources of Air Quality Problems

Poor indoor air can arise from many sources. At least some of the following contaminants can be found in almost any home:

Moisture and biological pollutants such as molds, mildew, dust mites, animal dander and cockroaches from high humidity levels, inadequate ventilation, and poorly maintained humidifiers and air conditioners.
Combustion products, including carbon monoxide, from unvented fossil fuel space heaters, unvented gas stoves and ovens, and backdrafting from furnaces and water heaters.
Formaldehyde from durable press draperies and other textiles, particle board products such as cabinets and furniture framing, and adhesives.
Radon, a radioactive gas from soil and rock beneath and around the home's foundation, groundwater wells and some building materials.
Household products and furnishings such as paints, solvents, air fresheners, hobby supplies, dry-cleaned clothing, aerosol sprays, adhesives, and fabric additives used in carpeting and furniture which can release volatile organic compounds.
Asbestos found in most homes more than 20 years old. Sources include deteriorating, damaged or disturbed pipe insulation, fire retardant, acoustical material and floor tiles.
Lead from lead-based paint dust created when removing paint by sanding, scraping or burning.
Particulates from dust and pollen, fireplaces, wood stoves, kerosene heaters and unvented gas space heaters.
Tobacco smoke, which produces particulates, combustion products and formaldehyde.

For more information contact: Panama City Home Inspector

ELECTRICAL SAFETY

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sat, 16 Jun 2007 17:58:36 -0500

During my last home inspection

Recently I inspected an older Home built in 1962. I was quite disturbed with the lack of GFI in the kitchen and in the bathrooms. The buyer had four children ranging from 5 to 14 years old. One of the major concerns of the buyer was safety. GFI receptacles are now available at your local hardware store and can easely be use to replace the non-GFI receptacles in the kitchen & Bathrooms at a very low cost (do-it-your-self). Here are some thoughts: Electricity is an essential part of our lives. However, it has the potential to cause great harm. Electrical systems will function almost indefinitely if properly installed and not overloaded or physically abused. Electrical fires in our homes claim the lives of 485 Americans each year and injure 2,305 more. Some of these fires are caused by electrical system failures and appliance defects, but many more are caused by the misuse and poor maintenance of electrical appliances, incorrectly installed wiring, and overloaded circuits and extension cords.

- Never use anything but the proper fuse to protect a circuit.
- Find and correct overloaded circuits.
- Never place extension cords under rugs.
- Outlets near water should be GFI-type outlets.
- Don't allow trees near power lines to be climbed.
- Keep ladders, kites, equipment and anything else away from overhead power lines.

Electrical Panels

Electricity enters the home through a control panel and a main switch where one can shut off all the power in an emergency. These panels are usually in the basement. Control panels use either fuses or circuit breakers. Install the correct fuses for the panel. Never use a greater numbered fuse or a metallic item such as a penny. If fuses are used and there is a stoppage in power, look for the broken metal strip in the top of a blown fuse. Replace the fuse with a new one marked with the correct amperage. Reset circuit breakers from off to on. Be sure to check why the fuse or circuit blew. Possible causes are frayed wires, overloaded outlets or defective appliances. Never overload a circuit with high wattage appliances. Check the wattage on appliance labels. If there is frayed insulation or a broken wire, a dangerous short circuit may result and cause a fire. If power stoppages continue or if a frayed or broken wire is found, contact an electrician.

Outlets and Extension Cords

Make sure all electrical outlets are three-hole, grounded outlets. If there is water in the area, there should be a GFI or Ground Fault Interrupter outlet. All outdoor outlets should be GFIs. There should be ample electrical capacity to run equipment without tripping circuit breakers or blowing fuses. Minimize extension cord use. Never place them under rugs. Use extension cords sparingly and check them periodically. Use the proper electrical cord for the job, and put safety plugs in unused outlets.

Electrical Appliances

Appliances need to be treated with respect and care. They need room to breathe. Avoid enclosing them in a cabinet without proper openings and do not store papers around them. Level appliances so they do not tip. Washers and dryers should be checked often. Their movement can put undue stress on electrical connections. If any appliance or device gives off a tingling shock, turn it off, unplug it and have a qualified person correct the problem. Shocks can be fatal. Never insert metal objects into appliances without unplugging them. Check appliances periodically to spot worn or cracked insulation, loose terminals, corroded wires, defective parts and any other components that might not work correctly. Replace these appliances or have them repaired by a person qualified to do so.

Electrical Heating Equipment

Portable electrical heating equipment may be used in the home as a supplement to the home heating system. Caution must be taken when using these heating supplements. Keep them away from combustibles and make sure they cannot be tipped over. Keep electrical heating equipment in good working condition. Do not use them in bathrooms because of the risk of contact with water and electrocution. Many people use electric blankets in their homes. They will work well if they are kept in good condition. Look for cracks or breaks in the wiring, plugs and connectors. Look for charred spots on both sides. Many things can cause electric blankets to overheat. They include other bedding placed on top of them, pets sleeping on top of them, and putting things on top of the blanket when it is in use. Folding the blankets can also bend the coils and cause overheating.

Children

Electricity is important to the workings of the home, but can be dangerous, especially to children. Electrical safety needs to be taught to children early on. Safety plugs should be inserted in unused outlets when toddlers are in the home. Make sure all outlets in the home have face plates. Teach children not to put things into electrical outlets and not to chew on electrical cords. Keep electrical wiring boxes locked. Do not allow children to come in contact with power lines outside. Never allow them to climb trees near power lines, utility poles or high tension towers.

Electricity and Water

A body can act like a lightning rod and carry the current to the ground. People are good conductors of electricity, particularly when standing in water or on a damp floor. A body can act like a lightning rod and carry the current to the ground. Never use any electric appliance in the tub or shower. Never touch an electric cord or appliance with wet hands. Do not use electrical appliances in damp areas or while standing on damp floors. In areas where water is present, use outlets with "ground fault interrupters" or GFIs. Shocks can be fatal.

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

TERMITES

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Thu, 17 May 2007 10:55:36 -0500

TERMITES HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC

Are relatively common pests which can cause structural damage to houses if left uncontrolled. Termites infest more than 600,000 homes each and every year, causing more damage than fires, storms or earthquakes -- an estimated $2 billion in the United States alone. There are many species of termites, but only the Eastern Subterranean Termite is discussed here, which is the most common and widely distributed termite in North America. They occur South of the line where the average annual minimun temperature is -22F (30C.) This includes Southern Ontario, Canada through the Eastern United States and into Texas. Termites remain inconspicuous most of the year, attacking / feeding on wood, but each spring large numbers may be seen swarming on sides of houses or in basements or even on carpeting. These swarmer termites are winged, but the wings are very loosely attached and knock off easily. Often a pile of wings is the first hint of a termite infestation.

Each termite has a small, unicellular protozoan living inside of it that enable it to digest wood and other food. Without this symbiont, termites would not be the pests that they are today. The small protists can break down the main substance present in most plants. Even though the termites plague the human civilization, they are imperative to the natural process of decomposition in nature. Termites can help to replenish the soil and get rid of fallen trees and leaf debris. These protozoa are present in in all termites except one termite family which has evolved a symbiotic relationship with bacteria and fungi.

RECOGNITION:

Winged termites (reproductives) are black, about 1/8 inch long, and resemble ants. However, termites do not have the narrow "waist" so typical of ants. Termite antennæ ("feelers") are made up of many beaded segments; whereas ant antennæ have one very long segment nearest the head and then many smaller segments. Both termites and ants have 2 pair of wings. However, the front and hind wings of termites are very similar in size[actual termite swarmer] and shape with fine, indistinct veins. In contrast, the front wings of ants are noticeably larger than the hind wings and the wings usually are tan or brown with a few distinct veins. The chance to see winged termites occurs once in the early spring and sometimes in early fall. At other times of the year the termites will not be readily visible. If an active mud tub or infested piece of wood is broken open, the termites in most cases will not be winged, & their color tone will be various shades of white, brown and red.

LIFE CYCLE:

Eastern subterranean termites, the species in the Northeast, build their nests underground, usually below the frost line, but above the water table and rock formations. Termites need a reliable source of moisture (which they derive from the soil) & wood. Termites have the ability to move their colony up and down in the soil to find the optimal temperature and moisture conditions. When termites feed on wood which is separated from the nest by an exposed surface, workers build mud-covered shelter tubes or tunnels. Workers need a high humidity to survive and will carry mud up into the wood where feeding to maintain a 97 percent relative humidity. These tunnels function to preserve moisture levels and to protect the vulnerable insects from predators. (A good termite inspector will look for these tubes.)

TERMITES:

Are social insects with distinct castes. Nests are started by a mating pair of swarmers. After constructing a small sheltered nest, the queen will lay her first batch of eggs. Both male (king) and female (queen) care for the first initial generations of immature termites. As the colony grows, the nest will be moved deeper into the soil and expand. Termite colonies usually require 3 to 4 years before they produce their first swarmers. During this time damage to the structure is usually limited. Once mature, termite colonies may contain thousands of insects & damage to structures progresses quickly.

A typical mature colony may contain 60,000 to over a million workers. In a typical termite colony, the king and queen are the only active reproductives; they perform no other function. They are fed by the other termites, and some have lived up to 25 years. A mature queen can lay thousands of eggs each year. During the two-week incubation period, eggs are tended by the worker termites. The nymph hatches directly from the egg. Attendants feed nymphs regurgitated food for the first two weeks, enabling them through molting to become workers, soldiers, reproductives, or supplementary reproductives. As the reproductive nymph matures, its body lengthens and sexual organs develop. The body turns black, eyes become functional, and wings extend twice its body length. The worker nymph has no eyes and is sterile. Its main function is to provide the colony with food, usually obtained by eating the understructure of buildings. The soldier nymph develops a long, armored head and large jaws during its last molt. The sole purpose of the soldier is to defend the colony against enemies such as ants.

All mature reproductives leave the colony at the same time, usually in the spring and sometimes in the fall. Swarmers are poor fliers and, when above ground, usually flutter a few yards and fall. Swarmers, emerging outdoors from tree stumps, railroad ties, etc., are usually not of concern and are in no way an indication that the structure is infested. After dropping to the ground, they shed their wings. Surviving males find compatible mates and then burrow into the ground to become king and queen.

DAMAGE: (Feeding Habits)

Subterranean termites feed exclusively on wood and wood products containing cellulose. Termites have protozoa (microorganisms) in their intestines that provide enzymes to digest cellulose. Although termites are soft-bodied insects, their hard, saw-toothed jaws work like shears and are able to bite off extremely small fragments of wood, a piece at a time. Termites often infest buildings and damage lumber, wood panels, flooring, wallpaper, paper products and fabric made of plant fibers. The most serious damage is the loss of structural strength. Other costly losses include attacks on flooring, carpeting, art work, books, clothing, furniture and valuable papers. Subterranean termites do not attack live trees.

Termites are surprisingly mobile and can gain access to wood in virtually any part of a building. However, most colonies build nests underground initially, so original infestations usually are found around the foundation and lower floors. Termites can slip through tiny cracks in cement foundations. Virtually any type of construction or foundation is susceptible to attack. Buildings with wood in direct or close contact along the ground are more apt to be attacked. Subterranean termites usually damage wood with the grain. 60,000 workers can eat 1/5 ounce or 5 grams of wood each day. At this rate, such a colony could completely consume 2 1/3 linear feet of a 2" by 4" pine board in one year. There could, however, be several colonies infesting a single building.

CONTROL:

When a termite infestation is suspected, it is advisable to have the insects identified by your county Cooperative Extension Service, a pest control operator or a home inspector experienced with wood boring insects. If possible, locate the point of entry. Sometimes the mud-covered shelter tubes can be seen along the side of the foundation. In most cases, points of entry are less obvious. Usually it's recommended that a professional pest control operator be called to conduct a thorough investigation. Termite inspections / treatment estimates usually are conducted for a nominal fee.

TERMITES:

Are best handled by a professional pest control operator. Most treatments will cost between $1200 and $1800. The standard practice for termite control involves the injection of an insecticide into the ground around the outside foundation and around the interior perimeter footing of the building. This method forms a chemical barrier which prevents the termites from moving into the building from their nesting site. When done correctly the technique is safe and effective. Registered chemicals are designed to stay in the soil where applied and risk of exposure to resident is very small. There are other methods, including baiting, now available for termite control which your pest control operator can discuss with you.

If for various reasons (proximity of a well, high water table, proximity of a waterway) soil treatment is unacceptable, discuss the alternatives with a pest control operator and /or your Cooperative Extension Agent. Reminder: Do not plant edible crops within 10 feet of ground treated for termite control. Replace all damaged wood (if the wood is near the ground use pressure treated lumber) & eliminate sources of moisture, since termites prefer wood with a moderate moisture level. A note of caution: Do not panic. Termites are damaging, and cause substantial structural damage, but they will not destroy a house overnight. Do not rush into a quick, incomplete termite control job. Take the time to talk with two or three pest control operators, obtain estimates, and select the one you think best meets your needs.

Ten Tips to Speed Up Your Home Inspection

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Fri, 27 Apr 2007 19:35:09 -0500

Sellers can speed their home inspection by following these suggestions. The inspection will go smoother, with fewer concerns to delay closing.

Confirm that water, electric and gas service are on, with gas pilot lights burning.
Ensure pets won't hinder the inspection. Ideally, they should be removed from premises or secured outside. Tell your agent about any pets at home.
Replace burned out bulbs to avoid a "Light is inoperable" report that may suggest an electrical problem.
Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and replace dead batteries.
Clean or replace dirty HVAC air filters. They should fit securely.
Remove stored items, debris and wood from foundation. These may be cited as "conducive conditions" for termites.
Remove items blocking access to HVAC equipment, electric service panels, water heaters, attics and crawl spaces.
Unlock areas the inspector must access - attic doors or hatches, electric service panels, closets, fence gates and crawl spaces.
Trim tree limbs to 10' from the roof and shrubs from the house to allow access.
Attend to broken or missing items like doorknobs, locks and latches; windowpanes, screens and locks; gutters, downspouts and chimney caps.

Checking these areas before your home inspection is an investment in selling your property. Your real estate agent will thank you!

INSPECTED ONCE, INSPECTED RIGHT! HOMEINSPECTORUSA # 1 Home Inspection in the Panhandle of Florida

Congratulations! Your under contract, Now what???

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 19 Mar 2007 16:45:05 -0500

Get a professional home inspection! You only got aproximatelly 10 days after signing the contract.

A professional Home Inspector is typically hired by a potential homebuyer right after the offer to purchase contract is signed, prior to executing the final purchase and sales agreement. However, before the potential buyer signs the offer to purchase contract, he/she should be sure that there is an inspection clause in the contract making the purchase obligation contingent upon the findings of a professional home inspection. This clause should specify the terms to which both the buyer and seller are obligated.

Selecting a Home Inspector

Good referral sources for home inspection services are friends, neighbors, or business acquaintances who have been satisfied with a home inspector. In addition, lawyers and mortgage brokers may also recommend a home inspector. Check the local phone books such as: The Real Yellow Pages & The Talking Book where many advertise under "Building Inspection Service" or "Home Inspection Service." are advertising. Loook for some with the right credentials such as: Engineer, contractor, certified inspector and obviously with experience in building houses. Best choice the combination of all previously stated. HOMEINSPECTORUSA is your best choice!

Keep in mind the following: Real estate brokers and salesmen may not directly recommend a specific home inspection company or home inspector unless representing the buyer as a buyer's broker. Brokers, however, may provide assistance to buyers in accessing information on certified home inspectors.

A current home owner may also want to get a home inspection to identify any problems, especially if the owner plans to sell the home in the near future.

About Home Inspections

A standard home inspection is a visual examination of the physical structure and major interior systems of a residential building consisting of one to four dwelling units. An inspection can be likened to a physical exam by a physician; however, it should be clearly understood that a home inspection is not to be confused with an appraisal, a building code inspection, a guarantee of any kind, and/or an insurance policy on the condition of the property.

During an inspection, the inspector will review the readily accessible exposed portions of the structure of the home, including the roof, the attic, walls, ceilings, floors, windows, doors, basement, and foundation as well as the heating/air conditioning systems, interior plumbing and electrical systems for potential problems.

Home inspections are not intended to point out every small problem or any invisible or latent defect in a home. Most minor or cosmetic flaws, for example, should be apparent to the buyer without the aid of a professional.

Welcome Home!

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Wed, 14 Mar 2007 17:22:24 -0500

Welcome Home!

Choosing HOMEINSPECTORUSA means choosing someone you can trust to objectively, independently and apart from anyone's interests other than your own, provide you with a comprehensive analysis of the properties major systems and components.

HOMEINSPECTORUSA has earned the continued loyalty of many highly praised businesses and numerous residential and commercial clients who rely on us to meet their needs, and trust in our tradition of delivering complete, accurate, and reliable results. Allow us to earn your trust and business as well! We are not a contractor or affiliated with any contractors, repair companies, appraisal firms, or real estate agents. HOMEINSPECTORUSA are proffesional inspectors working for only your best interest before the investment is finalized.

Buyers are not the only people who hire Inspectors. Management companies, HOA's, leasing agents also use us to gain knowledge of the condition of their properties before placing it on the market, or budgeting for future repairs. Smart sellers know that knowledge about their properties condition can lead to a quicker sale.
Owners schedule Inspections on rental and lease properties to assure that the investments they have made are in good condition and being maintained properly.

INSPECTED ONCE, INSPECTED RIGHT!