John M. 's Blog

Sump Pump Operation and Inspection Guide

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sun, 17 May 2009 08:11:52 -0500

Sump Pump Operation and Inspection Guide

Sump pumps are self-activating electrical pumps that protect homes from moisture intrusion. They are usually installed below basement or crawlspace floors to remove rising groundwater and surface runoff before it has a chance to seep into the home. Accumulated water can cause interior damage and encourage the growth of mold, mildew, and fungus. Pumps should be maintained and equipped with all necessary components in order to ensure their reliability.

How a Sump Pump Works
A pit, known as a sump pit or sump trench, can be dug at the lowest part of the basement floor to capture and contain any flowing water. A sump pump sits at the bottom of this trench (or beside it) and expels excess water through a series of interconnected pipes to a suitable discharge location. The pump can sense water levels through a float that rises and falls with fluctuating water levels in the trench. The sump pump becomes activated and deactivated based on the height of the float, providing a simple, automated way to monitor and deal with variable water levels.

Types of Sump Pumps

Pedestal sump pumps sit above the water line beside the sump trench and are not designed to get wet. Since they are not contained within the sump pit, they can be accessed easily but are also very noisy. They cost roughly $60 to $200, which is significantly less than other varieties.
Submersible sump pumps rest underwater at the bottom of the sump pit, and are much quieter than pedestal pumps. Their oil-cooled motors and tight seals protect against water and dust and afford them a long lifespan. They can cost up to $600.
Water-powered sump pumps are normally used as backups and kick in when the main pump experiences an electrical or mechanical failure.

Maintenance

The pump must be kept clean and free of debris. The inlet screen prevents the passage of dirt and other solid material from entering the pump, but it can become overwhelmed. Cleanings should occur often for pumps that run constantly.
Inspectors should make sure that the float is not tangled or jammed in one position. A sump pump with a jammed float is useless because it will not sense when it should turn on and shut off.
The pump can be tested by pouring water into the pit to make sure it becomes activated and expels the water. The homeowner should seek professional assistance if the pump does not activate.
Maintenance should take place annually, and when the home is sold.
When testing the pump, no one should ever reach into the pit. The float can be reached and manipulated with a household item such as a golf club (with a rubber handle) or anything else non-conductive that happens to be lying around.

Inspectors should check for the presence of the following:

a GFCI. There is considerable debate among inspectors concerning whether or not a sump pump should be connected to a GFCI. It is possible that a GFCI can prevent electrocution, but it is extremely unlikely that a sump pump will energize water in the first place. It is much more likely that a GFCI will trip during safe conditions and deactivate the sump pump when it is needed. A sump pump is among the most critical of all household appliances, and its deactivation, especially if the tenants are not home, could allow catastrophic building damage. Codes recommend that appliances in basements and crawlspaces be connected to GFCIs to reduce the chance of electrical shock, but this advice is often ignored due to these concerns over nuisance tripping.
an alarm. Sump pumps can burn out, lose power, become clogged or misaligned, or malfunction in a variety of other ways. It is valuable to have a warning device installed that will signal water build-up. These alarms can alert homeowners or neighbors of flooding so that it can be resolved before water damage occurs. Alarms are especially important in residences that are not occupied for long periods of time. Inspectors should keep in mind that, while an alarm can be helpful, it is not a requirement.
a check valve. This device is the same diameter as the discharge pipe into which it fits and is usually a different color. A check valve should be installed in order to prevent pumped water in the discharge line from re-entering the sump pit when the device is turned off. Without this valve, the pump will have to work twice as hard to remove the same column of water, which causes unnecessary strain to the pump components. A check valve can also prevent the rare yet disturbing possibility that a discharge line connected to a stream or pond will back-siphon into the sump pit.
a backup power source. Power outages are most likely to happen during heavy rains and floods, which are situations when the sump pump is most needed. For this reason, combined with the nuisance-tripping from GFCIs, sump pumps should have a backup power source to rely on. A pump powered by a battery or the home's water pressure can also be installed as a backup. Installation of a backup power source or backup pump is not a requirement, but can be offered to a client as a recommendation.
that the pit that is large enough for the pump. The sump pit does not need to be constructed from any particular material, as long as it is solid and provides permanent support for the pump. It must, however, be large enough to allow the pump room to work properly. Some homeowners use a 5-gallon bucket as a sump pit, but this is insufficient. For most homes, the sump pit should not be less than 24 inches deep and 18 inches wide. One of the most common reasons why sump pumps fail is that the float gets jammed between the pump and the pit because the pit is too cramped.
a cover. The sump pit should be covered to prevent water from evaporating into the home.

Discharge Location
Inspectors are not required to check for a proper discharge location. They can note an improper discharge if they see it, but searching outdoors for the discharge is not recommended. The following is good general information that can be passed on to the homeowner:

Water must be discharged at least 20 feet from the building.
Water should not drain back into the house! Cycling water will place unnecessary strain on the pump and can weaken the structure's foundation.
Water should not drain onto a neighbor's property without their approval.
Many jurisdictions do not permit pumped water into public sewer systems.
Pumped water should never drain into a residence's septic system. Especially during heavy rain, a septic drainfield will become saturated and will struggle to handle the normal flow of water from the house. Additional water from the sump pump can damage the septic system.

In summary, sump pumps are used to remove excess water from homes that would otherwise cause property damage. There are multiple types, but they all monitor water levels and ensure that they do not rise higher than predetermined levels. Proper maintenance and inspection will ensure pump efficiency and prolong their lifespan.

For more information please visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Modular vs. Manufactured Homes

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sun, 17 May 2009 08:07:59 -0500

Modular vs. Manufactured Homes

While the terms "modular home" and "manufactured home" refer to two very different things, they are sometimes used interchangeably. Perhaps some of this confusion stems from the fact that modular homes are, in fact, manufactured ("manufactured" might be an unfortunate label.) Also, traditional "site-built" homes are not necessarily better than modular homes, despite the stigma associated with their assembly-line origin. There have been cases where Realtors and builders of manufactured homes have misrepresented manufactured homes as modular homes, and buyers were not informed enough to know the difference. Everyone (especially inspectors, who make their living examining residences) should understand the distinguishing features of these two types of houses.
Modular Homes Modular homes are residences constructed entirely in factories and transported to their sites on flatbed trucks. They are built under controlled conditions, and must meet strict quality-control requirements before they are delivered. They arrive as block segments and are neatly assembled, using cranes, into homes that are almost indistinguishable from comparable ones built on-site. Wind and rain do not cause construction delays or warp building materials. In addition, modular homes:

must conform to the same local, state and regional building codes as homes built on-site;
are treated the same by banks as homes built on-site. They are easily refinanced, for example;
follow the same market trends as site-built houses;
must be structurally approved by inspectors;
can be of any size, although the block sections from which they are assembled are uniformly sized;
are often more basic than homes built on-site, but they tend to be sturdier;
are highly customizable. Design is usually decided by the buyer before construction has begun; and
generally take eight to 14 weeks to construct. Differing from a site-built home, the foundation can be dug at the same time that the house is being constructed.

Proponents of modular homes claim that their indoor, environmentally controlled construction affords them greater strength and resilience than homes built on-site. They also tend to be constructed using more precise building techniques and with more building material than comparable site-built residences. One reason for this is that they must be able to withstand the stress of highway transport. A study by FEMA found that modular homes withstood the wind and water from Hurricane Andrew better than most other homes in the area. They take less time to construct than site-built homes, are more energy-efficient, and generally cost less.
Manufactured Homes The term "manufactured home" is the most recent label for what were once called "mobile homes" or "trailers." They are relatively cheap, small, and are held to less stringent standards than modular and site-built homes. Their obvious advantages are their mobility and affordability, factors that allow buyers to make home purchases without a serious monetary or geographical commitment. They are available in three sizes that escalate as follows: "single-wide," "double-wide" and "triple-wide." In addition, manufactured homes:

conform only to Housing and Urban Development (HUD) code. Each home contains a red tag that confirms that the unit was manufactured in compliance with this code;
are inspected, but do not have to be structurally approved by an inspector;
are manufactured in sections at factories;
are never more than one story;
do not have a foundation;
tend to lose value over time because they are difficult to expand or improve;
are transported to the site on their own wheels;
are transported on steel chassis that are never removed;
are often placed on property owned by others, such as public land that is leased by the homeowner;
are treated as a separate lending category from modular and on-site built homes; and
are rarely custom-designed. The buyer can choose from homes that have already been built and receive it within days.

Despite their manufacturing process, modular homes are essentially the same as homes that are built on-site. They are treated the same under the law, and their basic structural features are almost indistinguishable from site-built homes, once assembled. Manufactured homes are relatively small, inexpensive, mobile residences that require a smaller commitment than is required by modular and site-built homes. It is important to understand the differences between these home types in order to reduce the influence of stigmas, misrepresentation and ignorance.

For more information please vist: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Efflorescence (stains)

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sun, 17 May 2009 08:04:43 -0500

Efflorescence for Inspectors.

Efflorescence is an accumulation of minerals and salts on masonry surfaces, such as brick, cement, and sometimes stone. Inspectors should know how to prevent against and remove this unsightly residue. They must also be aware that, while efflorescence itself is not dangerous, it indicates the presence of excess water, which can lead to more serious structural and health issues. How Efflorescence Forms The earth contains natural salts that are present in the raw materials that make up masonry products, such as concrete, asphalt and stucco. These salts remain trapped within masonry in solid form until they are dissolved into water, which usually makes its way into the material through small pores. Water can originate from rain, sprinklers, household leaks, or any number of other places. Cold, dry air will draw this liquid back out of the material where it evaporates, depositing the salt as a white crystalline growth on the surface. Efflorescence typically forms during cold, dry weather shortly after it has rained and moisture has entered the masonry. It can occur year-round, but it is most likely to form during the winter due to low temperatures.
Identifying Efflorescence As with mold, the appearance of efflorescence varies greatly. It can be powdery, it can have sharp edges and be easy to spot, or it can have indistinct edges. It can cover a large area as a fine dust, or form large individual crystals. Its appearance depends partly on the type of salt from which it is composed, but humidity also plays a role in this determination. In exceptionally dry climates, water can evaporate before it even reaches the surface, in which case the salt will accumulate unseen beneath the surface. In humid conditions, moisture may take a long time to evaporate, allowing the slow growth of "whispers" projecting from the surface. Inspectors should already know how to distinguish mold (pictured at right) from efflorescence, but it is possible for homeowners to confuse the two. The expense of a mold test can be avoided if the substance in question can be identified as efflorescence. Here are a few tips that inspectors can offer their clients so that they understand the differences:

Pinched between the fingers, efflorescence will turn into a powder, while mold will not.
Efflorescence forms on inorganic building materials, while mold forms on organic substances. However, it is possible for mold to consume dirt on brick or cement.
Efflorescence will dissolve in water, while mold will not.
Efflorescence is almost always white, yellow or brown, while mold can be any color imaginable. If the substance in question is purple, pink or black, it is not efflorescence.

Aside from mold, the following conditions can result from excess moisture in a residence:

fungi that rot wood;
water damage to sheetrock;
reduced effectiveness of insulation.

Inspectors should note the presence of efflorescence in their inspection reports because it generally occurs where there is excess moisture, a condition that also encourages the growth of mold. An exception can be made during the first few years of a building's construction when efflorescence will appear as a result of moisture locked within the masonry in a process called "new building bloom." This moisture comes from water added during the manufacturing or mixing process that will undoubtedly contribute to efflorescence. This type of efflorescence will appear all over the masonry material and will continue to accumulate until the initial water supply is exhausted, which can take up to a year. Efflorescence that appears locally and after the "new building bloom" is over is a symptom of excess moisture that can be problematic. The source of this moisture should be determined and corrected.
Prevention and Removal of Efflorescence

Prevention

An impregnating hydrophobic sealant can be applied to a surface to prevent the intrusion of water. It will also prevent water from traveling to the surface from within. In cold climates, this sealant can cause material to break during freeze/thaw cycles.

During home construction, bricks left out overnight should be kept on palletes and be covered. Moisture from damp soil and rain can be absorbed into the brick.

Removal

Pressurized water can sometimes be used to remove or dissolve efflorescence.

An acid, such as diluted muriatic acid, can be used to dissolve efflorescence. Water should be applied first so that the acid does not discolor the brick itself. Following application, baking soda can be used to neutralize the acid and prevent any additional damage to the masonry. Muriatic acid is toxic, and contact with skin or eyes should be avoided.

A strong brush can be used.

Note: The use of water to remove efflorescence may result in the re-absorption of crystals into the host material, from which they may later reappear as more efflorescence. It is advisable that if water is used in the removal process that it is dried off very quickly.

In summary, efflorescence is a harmless yet unsightly accumulation of salts on masonry surfaces. Its presence indicates excess water, a condition that can damage interiors and encourage the growth of mold. Inspectors should know how to remove efflorescence from surfaces, and educate their clients about its identification and significance.

For more information please visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Fire Extinguisher Maintenance and Inspection

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 08:18:42 -0500

Fire extinguishers are devices commonly found indoors and are used to douse fire and prevent its spread. They are small metal canisters that contain compressed gas (usually nitrogen) that, when activated, propel a directed spray of flame-retardant chemicals. Fire extinguishers are only effective if building occupants understand where and why they are used.
Fire Type Fire extinguishers are distinguished based on the types of fires on which they are effective. These fires are classified by their fuel source and assigned identifying letters as follows:

"A" class - Fires that result from ordinary combustibles such as wood and paper. "B" class - Fires that result from combustible liquids such as kerosene, gasoline, oil, and grease. "C" class - Fires of an electrical nature. These result from the combustion of circuit breakers, wires, outlets, and other electrical devices and equipment. Extinguishers designed to handle this type of fire cannot use chemicals that are conductive since conductive agents increase the risk of electric shock to the operator. "D" class - Fires resulting from combustible metals, such as sodium, potassium, titanium, and magnesium. These fires occur mostly in chemical laboratories and are rare in most other environments. "K" class - These types of fires consume vegetable oils, animal fats, and generally happen in kitchens. *Note* Although technically, the letter rankings listed above refer to fire types, these symbols can also be used to identify the extinguishers themselves. For instance, an extinguisher that uses CO2 can be called a "CO2 extinguisher" or a "BC extinguisher".

Extinguisher Types No fire extinguisher can be safely and effectively used for every type of fire. Some contain chemicals that are ineffective in certain situations and can even cause harm to the operator if misapplied. To prevent confusion, extinguishers are classified by the type of chemical agents they contain. A few of the most common extinguisher types are listed below:

Dry Chemical - There are two types of fire extinguishers that use a dry chemical. One is called "multi-purpose dry chemical" and uses ammonium phosphate as the extinguishing agent, which is effective on "A", "B", and "C" class fires. This chemical is corrosive and must be scrubbed from surfaces after use. These types of extinguishers are very common and are found in schools, homes, hospitals, and offices. Sodium bicarbonate is used in extinguishers known as "regular dry chemical", which are capable of handling "B" and "C" class fires. These extinguishers are found in garages, kitchens, and laboratories. Sodium bicarbonate is easy to clean and non-toxic.

Carbon Dioxide - These extinguishers contain liquid CO2 that is expelled as a gas. They are effective against "B" and "C" class fires. Unlike other chemicals, CO2 does not leave a harmful residue and is environmentally friendly. It also poses very little danger to electronics and is effectively employed in laboratories, computer rooms, and other areas with sensitive equipment.

Water Mist - These extinguishers are most suited for "A" class fires. However, they cannot be used in "B" and "C" class fires because water is conductive. Since the agent used is water, these types of extinguishers are inexpensive and environmentally friendly.

Wet Chemical Fire Extinguishers - These devices are designed to combat "K" class fires and commonly use potassium acetate. They are appropriately employed in commercial kitchens and restaurants, especially around deep fryers. The chemical is emitted as a fine mist that does not cause grease to splash onto other surfaces. They can also be used in "A" class fires.

Inspection Inspectors should:

Check that a portable fire extinguisher exists within a 30-foot travel distance of commercial-type cooking equipment that uses cooking oil or animal fat.
Check for the presence of portable extinguishers and determine that they are located in conspicuous and readily available locations immediately available for use and not obstructed or obscured from view.
Confirm that access to extinguishers is not obstructed.
Make sure that the hose (if one equipped) is intact and not obstructed.
Make sure the the pressure dial reads in the green or "charged" area. It should also be clear and readable.
Check that the pull pin is securely fastened within the handle and held in place by the tamper seal.
Check for visible dents or cracks in the extinguisher body.
Check that the extinguisher is in its proper location and mounted correctly.
Check for modifications that might reduce the extinguisher's functionality.

Inspectors should not do the following:

Test fire extinguishers.
Determine the adequate number of fire extinguishers needed or their ratings.
Ignite or extinguish fires.

Extinguisher testing and replacement
The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) recommends that extinguishers should be tested every 12 years or 5 years, depending on the type. The standard method of testing, "hydrostatic", is conducted underwater where the cylinders are subjected to pressures that exceed their ratings. Vessels that fail the test are condemned and destroyed while the rest are reassembled and put back into service.

According to the NFPA, extinguishers should be destroyed if any of the following conditions are present (they should not be tested):

a. Where repairs by soldering, welding, brazing, or use of patching compounds exist.
b. Where the cylinder threads are worn, corroded, broken, cracked, or nicked.
c. Where there is corrosion that has caused pitting, including pitting under a removable nameplate or nameband assembly.
d. Where the fire extinguisher has been burned in a fire.
e. Where a calcium chloride type of extinguisher agent was used in a stainless steel fire extinguisher.
f. Where the shell is of copper or brass construction joined by soft solder or rivets.
g. Where the depth of a dent exceeds 1/10 of the greatest dimension of the dent if not in a weld, or exceeds 1⁄4 in. (0.6 cm) if the dent includes a weld.
h. Where any local or general corrosion, cuts, gouges, or dings have removed more than 10 percent of the minimum cylinder wall thickness.
i. Where a fire extinguisher has been used for any purpose other than that of a fire extinguisher.

When should a fire extinguisher be used?
Small fires can be controlled through the use of household or commercial fire extinguishers. A household extinguisher can often completely douse a very small fire and prevent the need for professional assistance. Even if a fire cannot be completely doused, a homeowner can potentially control a blaze long enough with an extinguisher for firefighters to arrive. Fire extinguishers should not be used if the operator is not sure they have the proper type of extinguisher, if they are not sure how to use it, or if they cannot avoid smoke or are in imminent danger. If the operation of an extinguisher will place a building occupant in danger, they should evacuate the building and wait for fire crews to arrive.

What is on an extinguisher's label?

Essential information about the types of fires they can combat. Newer devices have pictures that correspond directly to the fire types listed above. Older models have letters serve the same purpose.
A numerical rating that designates the extinguishing potential for that particular model (class "A" and "B").
Instructions for operation.
A tag that indicates if and when an inspection occurred.

Do fire extinguishers expire? Fire extinguishers expire and they do this for a few different reasons. One common way is that over time, the seal on the neck will weaken and allow compressed gas to escape. Extinguishers that have lost much of their pressure will not operate. Pressure within an extinguisher can be conveniently checked through a pressure gauge. "ABC" class extinguishers (ammonium phosphate) have the tendency to fail due to solidification of the chemical in the canister base. Homeowners and inspectors can delay this process by periodically shaking the extinguisher. Expensive extinguishers that have expired, especially those designed for commercial use, can be refilled and resealed by companies who specialize in this service. Inexpensive models are disposable.

Unfortunately, an expiration date cannot be fully trusted and there is no foolproof way to know if an extinguisher is no longer functional. Due to the extremely destructive potential of fires and the relatively low cost of extinguishers, it is advisable to replace or recharge questionable extinguishers.
In summary, extinguishers are classified based on their chemical ingredients, all of which have their own strengths and limitations. It is important to know what type of extinguisher combats what type of fire. Fire extinguishers are critical indoor components that must be maintained and inspected regularly.

For more information please visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Water Heater/TPR Valves and Discharge Piping

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 06 Apr 2009 18:45:41 -0500

TPR (temperature pressure relief) valves are safety devices installed on water heating appliances such as boilers and domestic water supply heaters. TPRs are designed to automatically release water in the event that pressure or temperature in the water tank exceeds safe levels. If temperature sensors and safety devices such as TPRs malfunction, water in the system may become superheated (exceed the boiling point). Once the tank ruptures and water is exposed to the atmosphere it will expand into steam almost instantly and occupy approximately 1,600 times its original volume. This process can propel a heating tank like a rocket through multiple floors, causing personal injury and extensive property damage. Water-heating appliance explosions are rare due to the fact that they require a simultaneous combination of unusual conditions and failure of redundant safety components. These conditions only result from extreme negligence and the use of outdated or malfunctioning equipment. The TPR valve will activate if either water temperature (measured in degrees Fahrenheit) or pressure (measured in pounds per square inch (PSI)) exceed safe levels. The valve should be connected to a discharge pipe (also called a drain line) that runs down the length of the water heater tank. This pipe is responsible for routing hot water released from the TPR to a proper discharge location. It is critical that discharge pipes meet the following requirements, which can be found in InterNACHI's Water Heater Discharge Piping mini-course, at www.nachi.org/education. A discharge pipe should:

Be constructed of an approved material such as CPVC, copper, polyethylene, galvanized steel, polypropylene, or stainless steel. PVC and other non-approved plastics should not be used since they can easily melt.
Not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the valve it serves (usually no smaller than 3/4").
Not reduce in size from the valve to the air gap (point of discharge).
Be as short and as straight as possible so as to avoid undue stress on the valve.
Be installed so as to drain by flow of gravity.
Not be trapped since standing water may become contaminated and backflow into the potable water.
Discharge to a floor drain, to an indirect waste receptor, or to the outdoors.
Not be directly connected to the drainage system to prevent backflow of potentially contaminating the potable water.
Discharge through a visible air gap in the same room as the water-heating appliance.
Be first piped to an indirect waste receptor such as a bucket through an air gap located in a heated area when discharging to the outdoors in areas subject to freezing, since freezing water could block the pipe.
Not terminate more than 6 inches (152 mm) above the floor or waste receptor.
Discharge in a manner that could not cause scalding.
Discharge in a manner that could not cause structural or property damage.
Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by occupants because discharge indicates that something is wrong and to prevent unobserved termination capping.
Be piped independent of other equipment drains, water heater pans, or relief valve discharge piping to the point of discharge.
Not have valves anywhere.
Not have tee fittings.
Not have a threaded connection at the end of the pipe so as to avoid capping.

Leakage and Activation A properly functioning TPR valve will eject a powerful jet of hot water from the discharge pipe when fully activated, not a gentle leak. A leaky TPR valve is an indication that it needs to be replaced. In the rare case that the TPR valve does activate, the homeowner should immediately shut off the water and contact a qualified plumber for assistance and repair. Inspectors should recommend that homeowners test TPR valves monthly, although inspectors should never do this themselves because they may be held liable for any damage that might occur if the valve fails. The inspector should demonstrate to the homeowner how the main water supply can be shut off and explain that it can be located at the home main water supply valve or at the water supply shut-off for the appliance on which the TPR is mounted. TPR Data Plate Information

The pressure at which a TPR valve will activate is printed on a data plate located beneath the test lever. This amount should not exceed the working pressure limit marked on the data plate of the water-heating appliance it serves.
The BTU/HR rating marked on the water-heating appliance data plate should not exceed that of the TPR, which is marked on the TPR data plate.
TPR valves with missing data plates should be replaced.

Although a TPR valve might never become activated, it is an essential safety component on boilers and domestic water heaters. Guidelines concerning these valves and their discharge pipes reflect real hazards that every homeowner and home inspector should take seriously. More information about this subject can be found in InterNACHI's Water Heater Discharge Piping mini-course, InterNACHI's Plumbing Inspection course or by contacting a qualified plumber.

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Dryer Vent Safety

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 06 Apr 2009 18:40:43 -0500

Clothes dryers evaporate the water from wet clothing by blowing hot air past them while they tumble inside a spinning drum. Heat is provided by an electrical heating element or gas burner. Some heavy garment loads can contain more than a gallon of water, which during the drying process will become airborne water vapor and leave the dryer and home through an exhaust duct (more commonly known as a dryer vent). A vent that exhausts moist air to the home exterior has a number of requirements:

It should be connected. The connection is usually behind the dryer but may be beneath it. Look carefully to make sure it's actually connected!
It should not be restricted. Dryer vents are often made from flexible plastic or metal duct, which may be easily kinked or crushed where they exit the dryer and enter the wall or floor. This is often a problem since dryers tend to be tucked away into small areas with little room to work. Vent hardware is available which is designed to turn 90° in a limited space without restricting the flow of exhaust air. Restrictions should be noted in the inspector's report. Airflow restrictions are a potential fire hazard!
One of the reasons that restrictions are a potential fire hazard is that along with water vapor evaporated out of wet clothes, the exhaust stream carries lint - highly flammable particles of clothing made of cotton and polyester. Lint can accumulate in an exhaust duct, reducing the dryer's ability to expel heated water vapor, which then accumulates as heat energy within the machine. As the dryer overheats, mechanical failures can trigger sparks, which can cause lint trapped in the dryer vent to burst into flames. This condition can cause the whole house to burst into flames! Fires generally originate within the dryer but spread by escaping through the ventilation duct, incinerating trapped lint and following its path into the building wall.

House fires caused by dryers are far more common than generally believed, a fact that can be appreciated upon reviewing statistics from the National Fire Protection Agency. Fires caused by dryers in 2005 were responsible for approximately 13,775 house fires, 418 injuries, 15 deaths, and $196 million in property damage. Most of these incidents occur in residences and are the result of improper lint cleanup and maintenance. Fortunately, these fires are very easy to prevent.
The recommendations outlined below reflect International Residential Code (IRC) SECTION M1502 CLOTHES DRYER EXHAUST guidelines:

M1502.5 Duct construction.
Exhaust ducts shall be constructed of minimum 0.016-inch-thick (0.4 mm) rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Exhaust ducts shall not be connected with sheet-metal screws or fastening means which extend into the duct.

This means that the flexible, ribbed vents used in the past should no longer be used. They should be noted as a potential fire hazard if observed during an inspection.

M1502.6 Duct length. The maximum length of a clothes dryer exhaust duct shall not exceed 25 feet (7620 mm) from the dryer location to the wall or roof termination. The maximum length of the duct shall be reduced 2.5 feet (762 mm) for each 45-degree (0.8 rad) bend and 5 feet (1524 mm) for each 90-degree (1.6 rad) bend. The maximum length of the exhaust duct does not include the transition duct.

This means that vents should also be as straight as possible and cannot be longer than 25 feet. Any 90° turns in the vent reduce this 25-foot number by 5 feet since these turns restrict airflow.
A couple of exceptions exist:

The IRC will defer to the manufacturer's instruction, so if the manufacturer's recommendation permits a longer exhaust vent, that's acceptable. An inspector probably won't have the manufacturer's recommendations, and even if they do, confirming compliance with them exceeds the scope of a General Home Inspection.
The IRC will allow large radius bends to be installed to reduce restrictions at turns, but confirming compliance requires performing engineering calculation in accordance with the ASHRAE Fundamentals Handbook, which definitely lies beyond the scope of a General Home Inspection!

M1502.2 Duct termination.
Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building or shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer's installation instructions. Exhaust ducts shall terminate not less than 3 feet (914 mm) in any direction from openings into buildings. Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination.

Inspectors will see many dryer vents terminate in crawlspaces or attics where they deposit moisture, which can encourage the growth of mold, wood decay, or other material problems. Sometimes they will terminate just beneath attic ventilators. This is a defective installation. They must terminate at the exterior and away from a door or window! Also, screens may be present at the duct termination and can accumulate lint and should be noted as improper.

M1502.3 Duct size.
The diameter of the exhaust duct shall be as required by the clothes dryer's listing and the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Look for the exhaust duct size on the data plate.

M1502.4 Transition ducts.
Transition ducts shall not be concealed within construction. Flexible transition ducts used to connect the dryer to the exhaust duct system shall be limited to single lengths, not to exceed 8 feet (2438 mm) and shall be listed and labeled in accordance with UL 2158A.

In general, a home inspector will not know specific manufacturer's recommendations or local applicable codes and will no be able to confirm the dryer vent's compliance to them, but will be able to point out issues that may need to be corrected.

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Bathroom Ventilation Ducts and Fans

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 06 Apr 2009 18:36:18 -0500

Fan Function Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and moist air to the home exterior. Typical systems consist of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof. The fan may be controlled in one of several ways:

Most are controlled by a conventional wall switch
A timer switch may be mounted on the wall
A wall-mounted humidistat can be pre-set to turn the fan on and off based on different levels of relative humidity

Newer fans may be very quiet but work just fine. Older fans may be very noisy or very quiet. If an older fan is quiet, it may not be working well. Inspectors can test for adequate fan airflow with a chemical smoke pencil or a powder puff bottle but such tests exceed InterNACHI's Standards of Practice.
Bathroom ventilation fans should be inspected for dust buildup that can impede airflow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are attracted to the fan because of its static charge. Inspectors should comment on dirty fan covers.
Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms. This includes bathrooms with windows since windows will not be opened during the winter in cold climates. Defects
The following conditions indicate insufficient bathroom ventilation:

Moisture stains on walls or ceilings
Corrosion of metal
Visible mold on walls or ceilings
Peeling paint or wallpaper
Frost on windows
High levels of humidity

The most common defect related to bathroom ventilation systems is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate at the home exterior. The most common improper terminations locations are:

Mid-level in the attic. These are easy to spot.
Beneath the insulation. You need to remember to look. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed.
Beneath attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home exterior, not just beneath it.

Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom... you have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes poorly-installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections. Ducts which leak or terminate in attics can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moist air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation or other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health or decay problems from mold or to damage materials such as drywall. Moisture also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation.
Mold Perhaps the most serious consequence of an improper ventilation setup is the potential accumulation of mold in attics or crawl spaces. Mold may appear as a fuzzy, thread-like, cobwebby fungus although it can never be identified with certainty without being lab tested. Health problems caused by mold are related to high concentrations of spores in indoor air. "Spores" are like microscopic seeds, released by mold fungi when they reproduce. Every home has mold. Moisture levels of about 20% in materials will cause mold colonies to grow. Inhaling mold spores can cause health problems in those with asthma or allergies and can cause serious or fatal fungal infections in those with lung disease or compromised immune systems.
Mold is impossible to identify visually and must be tested by a lab in order to be confidently labeled. Inspectors should refrain from calling anything "mold" but should refer to anything that appears as mold as a material that "appears to be microbial growth". Inspectors should include in their report and in the inspection agreement signed by the client a disclaimer clearly stating that the General Home Inspection is an inspection for safety and system defects, not a mold inspection.
Decay, which is rot, is also caused by fungi. Incipient (early) decay cannot be seen. By the time decay becomes visible, wood may have lost up to 50% of its strength.
In order to grow, mold fungi require that the following conditions are present:

Oxygen
Temperatures between approximately 45° F and 85° F
Food. This includes a wider variety of materials found in homes
Moisture

If insufficient levels of any of these requirements exist, all mold growth will stop and fungi will go dormant. Most are difficult to actually kill.
Even though mold growth may take place in the attic, mold spores can be sucked into the living areas of a residence by low air pressure. Low air pressure is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms, dryers, kitchens and heating equipment.
Improper ventilation Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that stale air is properly exhausted. Ventilation ducts must:

Terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope.
Contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry.
Be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder.
Be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts will encourage condensation.
Protrude at least several inches from the roof.
Be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements.
Installed to manufacturer's recommendations.

The following tips are helpful although not required. Ventilation ducts should:

Be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop.
Have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to backflow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces.

Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors into the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues.

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Fiberglass Insulation - History, Hazards, Alternatives

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 10:49:00 -0500

Fiberglass is a type of fiber primarily composed of glass that is used in a wide variety of applications but is predominantly employed as a residential and commercial thermal insulator. Fiberglass is also used to create products as varied as automobile bodies, boat hulls, arrows, roofing, shower curtains, and tent poles. As an insulator it slows the spread of heat, cold and sound in structures, cars, and aircraft. By trapping pockets of air, it keeps rooms warm in the winter and cool in the summer and thereby serves as a convenient method to increase energy efficiency. Fiberglass is an attractive choice for home insulation because it poses no fire hazard. According to some estimates, thermal insulation (made from fiberglass and its alternatives) conserves 12 times as much energy as is lost in its production and it may reduce residential energy costs by up to 40%. Glass has been woven into small amounts of course fibers for many centuries, even by the ancient Egyptians and Phoenicians, but fiberglass did not exist in its modern form until 1932 as a result of an accident. A researcher named Dale Kleist was attempting to create a vacuum-tight seal between two glass blocks when a jet of high-pressure air turned a stream of molten glass into fine fibers. He had unintentionally discovered an effective method to produce large amounts of fiberglass particles, a method that he would refine in later years. Fiberglass was trademarked in 1938 as Fiberglas® and was subsequently used in clothing, boat hulls, fishing rods, and eventually automobile bodies in 1953 when Fiberglas® partnered with Chevrolet. In homes, fiberglass insulation can be installed in various parts of the building envelope. It can be pink, yellow, white, or green, depending on its manufacturer and has a spongy feel. Commonly found in blanket form, called batts, it is available in bags containing standard pre-cut lengths and widths. Batts are typically stapled into place. It also comes in bags as loose fill that can be blown into attic, wall, and floor cavities. Most fiberglass batts are manufactured with a paper or foil backing that faces the direction of warmth. When installed correctly, it creates a continuous membrane that retards the passage of moisture and reduces the likelihood that fibrous particles will enter the living space. It is important that the backing always faces the warm side of the structure in which the insulation is installed. Batts are available in different thicknesses, with the thicker batts offering a higher resistance to heat flow. This resistance is known as R-value, with common R-values for walls being R11 to R19 and R30 to R38 for ceilings.
Hazards For home inspectors, it is important to understand the health risks associated with exposure to fiberglass insulation. These risks are not at present fully understood or agreed upon, but it is generally accepted that in certain situations it has the potential to cause physical harm. Small particles that come into contact with skin can lodge in pores and cause itchiness, rashes, and irritation. When inhaled, particles can cause coughing, nosebleeds, and other respiratory ailments. Very fine airborne particles are capable of becoming deeply lodged in the lungs and are believed by many to cause cancer and other serious afflictions. OSHA considers this threat to be serious enough that it requires fiberglass insulation to carry a cancer warning label. When it is disturbed, fiberglass insulation releases particulates into the air which may be inhaled by those installing or removing it or by property inspectors crawling through attics or crawlspaces. If you must disturb fiberglass insulation, wear gloves, long-sleeved shirts, pants, and goggles. A respirator with a particulate filter should be used to prevent inhalation of the potentially dangerous fibers. Before removing fiberglass insulation, it is a good idea to dampen the area to prevent particles from entering the airspace. Afterwards, wash your hands with water, preferably cold water, as warm water can expand pores which have trapped particles and allow them to travel deeper into your skin.
An Alternative - Cellulose Cellulose, a plant-based insulator, is the oldest form of home insulation and at times has been produced from sawdust, cotton, straw, hemp, and other plant materials with low thermal-conductivity. Today, it is produced from recycled newspapers that are later treated with chemicals that reduce its ignition potential. It became popular in the 1970's due to the oil crisis although it suffered from competition with fiberglass insulation as a result of fire-standards lobbying by the fiberglass and mineral companies. Cellulose must be chemically treated in order to reduce its flammable properties, although it always has the potential to burn. These chemicals, usually sodium borate, boric acid, or ammonium sulfate, are generally considered safe for human contact. This material provides a number of advantages over fiberglass - it is inexpensive, significantly reduces airflow, and is not believed to pose any serious health risks. On the other hand, it is dustier, seriously weakened when damp, and generally offers less insulation than fiberglass, although this last point is not always true. It is possible that the material can produce harmful offgasses from the ink contained in the newspapers but insulation is generally contained in sealed locations so this is not likely to be a health concern. As is true with fiberglass, protect your lungs with a breathing mask when handling cellulose insulation. Fiberglass and cellulose are both used as insulators although they offer somewhat different advantages. Cellulose is cheap and safe although it isn't as flame resistant and it should be avoided in humid climates. Fiberglass is fire resistant and is not as affected by moisture although it is probably more dangerous. Also, keep in mind that there are other types of thermal insulation available that are not covered in this article, such as rock wool, vermiculite, and various two-part foams.

For more information visit: http://www.homeinspectorusa.biz

Avoiding Litigation: Foundations

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sun, 15 Mar 2009 18:47:02 -0500

The word foundation is a timeless metaphor of strength and security, and people quite naturally have genuine concerns about the foundations on which their homes rest. For this reason, people need to be educated about foundations in general and specific types in particular, and I include such information in every report. This is what I include about slab on-grade foundations, and you are welcome to use all or any part of it that you might find useful.

This residence has a bolted, slab foundation. Such foundations are the most modern, but they can vary considerably from older ones that have no moisture barrier beneath them and no reinforcing steel within them to newer ones that have moisture barriers beneath them and adjustable reinforcing steel within them. This type is called a post-tension slab, but is often impossible to distinguish one slab type from another in which even the size and spacing of the bolts can vary, although most are concealed. Our inspection of slabs conforms to industry standards. We examine the visible portion of the stem walls on the exterior of the structure for any evidence of significant cracks or structural deformation. However, we do not move furniture or lift carpeting and padding to look for cracks, and we do not use any specialized tools or measuring devices to establish relative elevations or determine any degree of differential settling. Significantly, many slabs are built or move out of level, but the average person would not realize this until there is a difference of more than one inch in twenty feet, which most authorities describe as being tolerable. Interestingly, many slabs are found to contain cracks when the carpet and padding are removed, but there is no absolute standard for evaluating them. However, those that are less than 1/4" and which exhibit no significant vertical or horizontal displacement are not regarded as being structurally threatening. They typically result from common shrinkage, but can also be caused by a deficient mixture of concrete, deterioration through time, seismic activity, adverse soil conditions, and poor drainage, and if they are not sealed they can allow moisture to enter a residence, and particularly if the residence is surcharged by a hill or a slope, or if downspouts discharge adjacent to the slab. However, in the absence of any major defects, we may not recommend that you consult with a structural engineer or a foundation contractor, but this should not deter you from seeking the opinion of any such expert, and we would be happy to refer one.

For more information please visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

"Why a Professional Home Inspector often is called a DK..."

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sun, 15 Mar 2009 18:35:40 -0500

John M. Acaron, CHI, CMI

www.HOMEINSPECTORUSA.biz

(850-814-3889)

Deal Killer ("DK") is one of the most controversial of all home inspection topics, the one that stirs ire among veteran inspectors and that draws defensive reactions from some real estate professionals everywhere. The very idea that professional real estate agents are the primary source of home inspector referrals is a clear and obvious conflict of interest. Yet most home buyers never seem to give this a thought. They simply hire the agent's favorite home inspector, without asking if this is the best one available. Let the client do his own research and select his professional home inspector.

The proper job description of real estate agents is representing the best interest of clients. The highest expression of true representation is to provide total, complete, and unabridged disclosure. When a buyer asks an agent to recommend a professional home inspector, the actual question, regardless of how it is stated, is "who is the best home inspector available?" Real estate agents who recommend someone they do not regard as the best are not representing the client's interests and are thereby guilty of misrepresentation. If the ethical commitment to a client is not sufficient motivation to recommend a quality home inspector, real estate agents should consider the matter of personal liability. Every defect that is overlooked by a marginal home inspector is a potential lawsuit, and such suits are commonly filed against agents who compromise the interests of their clients.

The derogatory phrase "DK" is somewhat used by a few real estate agents to describe independent professional home inspectors who give buyers objective information in an inspection report, which may lead the buyer to renegotiate or to look at other properties. Some real estate agents view independent home inspectors as a challenge to their ability to generate income. They view these "DK" as foes and will try to use a number of tactics to control the inspector selection process. Think twice, Think about liability.

Transactions close when buyers are satisfied with the condition of the property. The best professional home inspectors find more of the conditions that raise dissatisfaction. Less experienced inspectors don't disclose as many of these conditions, posing less risk to the agent's income. For some agents, the temptation to recommend a less thorough inspector is too great to resist. When temptation prevails, "STOP" let the client make his choice.

But what exactly does that mean? The name suggests someone who reports nonexistent problems or who describes defects in an alarmist fashion. But professional home inspectors of that kind are rare. The epithet is more commonly applied to those with the greatest ability to discover problems in a home. Once a professional home inspector has been branded with the "DK" label, disrepute spreads through the grapevine of local real estate agents. When new agents join a real estate office, they are often advised by some of the veteran agents not to use Inspector X, because of his "DK" status. Avoid the engagement in this practice. Remember: A happy client results in many future referrals.

Being a thorough, detail and unbiased professional home inspector is often mistaken as a nick-pick inspector. However, some home inspectors use canned software package, often call a check list formatted with prewritten statements. These home inspectors are for the most part very popular because the end result is a check list that is difficult to understand and pretty much cumbersome, softening out the end results. Is this the common practice of all real estate agents? Absolutely not! So, what is the solution? Let the client make his own research and select his own professional home inspector. This is call: "PEACE OF MIND" for information visit: www. HOMEINSPECTORUSA.biz

"Just what does a Home Inspector do?"

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sun, 15 Mar 2009 18:32:36 -0500

John M. Acaron, CHI, CMI

www.HOMEINSPECTORUSA.biz

Office: (850-814-3889)

Think of a professional home inspector as a detective searching throughout the house for clues that lead to a conclusion of the home's overall condition. A certified home inspector performs a very important service. He inspects an existing home using professional standards and equipment as a measure to accurately report the condition of the home. A professional home inspector will inspect the property to the highest professional and ethical standards in the industry and provide the client with an accurate, comprehensive, easy-to-read, written assessment report thereafter. The inspector does not evaluate the home for cost or value. A home inspection is a non-invasive examination of the condition of a home performed on specific time and date. The home inspection is carried out by a professional home inspector, who usually is certified and has specialized equipment (tools), education and training to ascertain and carry out such task.

To be a competent and professional home inspector it must be fully educated & trained in the proper operation of all commonly found home systems. These systems include:

•v Structural Components (foundations, floors and walls),

•v Exterior Components (siding paint, windows, decks, garage doors, etc.),

•v Roofing (coverings, flashings, chimneys, etc.),

•v Plumbing (piping, fixtures, faucets, water heating and fuel storage systems, etc.),

•v Electrical (wiring, main service panels, conductors, switches, receptacles, etc.),

•v Heating (equipment, safety controls, distribution systems, chimneys, etc.),

•v Air Conditioning and Heat Pumps (cooling and air-handling equipment, controls and ducting, etc.),

•v Interior (partitions, ceilings, floors, railings, doors and windows, etc.),

•v Insulation and Ventilation (attic, walls, floors, foundations, kitchen and bathrooms, etc.)

Why a Home Inspection? Public awareness, increased liability, and the growing demand for qualified information have catapulted the home inspector into the public spotlight. When purchasing a home, many home buyers have saved literally thousands of dollars through information provided by the home inspector. People who have owned a home for several years have benefited through the home inspector's knowledge of maintenance, repairs and experienced eyes to avert potential problems. In many areas where disasters have occurred, homeowners have relied on inspectors to help them identify any damage resulting from storms, earthquakes, etc.

The home inspection report must be neatly written and conform to the accepted standards of this industry. With proper education, training and experience a home inspector can be an effective asset to the home buyer. A home "cannot fail" an inspection, as there is no score or passing grade given. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate what components and systems may need a major or minor repair or replacement. The home inspector play a very important role in the decision making process and in the result of the real estate transaction.A home inspection has become an intricate part of the real estate transaction. ****** Inspected Once, Inspected Right! ******

Building a Home

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 10:54:51 -0600

If you want to build a new home, there are other things you need to know before you begin. Learn about construction standards and about buying land, so you know your rights. MPS Supplementing Model Building Codes
The Minimum Property Standards (MPS) establish certain minimum standards for buildings constructed under HUD housing programs. This includes new single family homes, multi-family housing and health care type facilities. HUD Minimum Property Standards and How They Supplement the Model Building Codes
Until the mid-1980's, HUD maintained separate Minimum Property Standards for different types of structures. Since that time, HUD has accepted the model building codes, including over 250 referenced standards, and local building codes, in lieu of separate and prescriptive HUD standards. However, there is one major area of difference between the MPS and other model building codes- durability requirements. Homes and projects financed by FHA-insured mortgages are the collateral for these loans and their lack of durability can increase FHA's financial risk in the event of default. More specifically, the model codes do not contain any minimum requirements for the durability of such items as doors, windows, gutters and downspouts, painting and wall coverings, kitchen cabinets and carpeting. The MPS includes minimum standards for these, and other items, to ensure that the value of an FHA-insured home is not reduced by the deterioration of these components.
HUD Field Office Acceptance for Areas without Building Codes
HUD requires that each property insured with an FHA mortgage meet one of the nationally recognized building codes or a State or local building code based on a nationally recognized building code. In areas where such State or local codes are used, HUD determines if the State or local code is comparable to the model building code. There are also areas of the United States that do not have building codes. If no State or local building code has been adopted, the appropriate HUD Field Office will specify a building code that is comparable to one of the nationally recognized model building codes.

Interstate Land Sales
The Interstate Land Sales program protects consumers from fraud and abuse in the sale or lease of land. In 1968 Congress enacted the Interstate Land Sales Full Disclosure Act, which is patterned after the Securities Law of 1933 and requires land developers to register subdivisions of 100 or more non-exempt lots with HUD and to provide each purchaser with a disclosure document called a Property Report. The Property Report contains relevant information about the subdivision and must be delivered to each purchaser before the signing of the contract or agreement.
Buying Lots from Developers

Be well informed when shopping for land. Lots may be marketed as sites for future retirement homes, for second home locations, or for recreational or campsite use. However, be wary of any investment aspect that may be stressed by sales personnel. If you plan to purchase a lot which is offered by promotional land sales, take plenty of time before coming to a decision. Before signing a purchase agreement, a contract, or a check:

Know Your Rights as a Buyer.
Know Something about the Developer.
Know the Facts about the Development and the Lot You Plan to Buy.
Know What You Are Doing When You Encounter High-Pressure Sales Campaigns.

Generally, if the company from which you plan to buy is offering 100 or more unimproved lots for sale or lease through the mail or by means of interstate commerce, it may be required to register with the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD). This means that the company must file with HUD and provide prospective buyers with a property report containing detailed information about the property. Failure to do this may be a violation of the law, punishable by up to five years in prison, a $10,000 fine, or both. The information filed by the developer and retained by HUD, must contain such items as these:

A copy of the corporate charter and financial statement.
Information about the land, including title policy or attorney's title opinion & copies of deed and mortgages.
Information on local ordinances, health regulations, etc.
Information about facilities available in the area, such as schools, hospitals, and transportation systems.
Information about availability of utilities and water and plans for sewage disposal.
Development plans for the property, including information on roads, streets, and recreational facilities.
Supporting documents, such as maps, plans, and letters from suppliers of water and sewer facilities.

The company filing this information must swear that it is correct and complete, and an appropriate fee must accompany submission. The information is retained by HUD and is available for public inspection. The property report, which is also prepared by the developer, goes to the buyer. The law requires the seller to give the report to a prospective lot purchaser prior to the time a purchase agreement is signed. Ask for it. The seller is also required to have you sign a receipt acknowledging that you received the property report. Do not sign the receipt unless you have actually received the property report. Check the developer's property report before buying. This is the kind of information you will find in a property report:

Distances to nearby communities over paved or unpaved roads
Existence of mortgages or liens on the property
Whether contract payments are placed in escrow
Availability and location of recreational facilities
Availability of sewer and water service or septic tanks and wells
Present and proposed utility services and charges
The number of homes currently occupied
Soil and foundation conditions which could cause problems in construction or in using septic tanks
The type of title the buyer may receive and when it should be received.

Read the Property Report Before Signing Anything
This report is prepared and issued by the developer of this subdivision. It is not prepared or issued by the Federal Government. Federal law requires that you receive this report prior to signing a contract or agreement to buy or lease a lot in this subdivision. However, no federal agency has judged the merits or value of the property. If you received the report prior to signing a contract or agreement, you may cancel your contract or agreement by giving notice to the seller any time before midnight of the seventh day following the signing of the contract or agreement. If you did not receive this report before you signed a contract or agreement, you may cancel the contract or agreement any time within two years from the date of signing.

Your Contract Rights
If the lot you are buying is subject to the jurisdiction of the Interstate Land Sales Full Disclosure Act, the contract or purchase agreement must inform you of certain rights given to buyers by that Act. The contract should state that the buyer has a "cooling-off" period of 7 days (or longer if allowed by State law) following the day that the contract is signed to cancel the contract, for any reason, by notice to the seller, and get his or her money back. Furthermore, unless the contract states that the seller will give the buyer a warranty deed, within 180 days after the contract is signed, the buyer has a right to cancel the contract for up to 2 years from the day that the contract is signed unless the contract contains the following provisions:

A clear description of the lot so that the buyer may record the contract with the proper county authority.
The right of the buyer to a notice of any default (by the buyer) and at least 20 days after receipt of that notice to cure or remedy the default.
A limitation on the amount of money the seller may keep as liquidated damages, of 15% of the principal paid by the buyer (exclusive of interest) or the seller's actual damages, whichever is greater.

Contract Rights Concerning Property Reports
It has always been the law that if the developer has an obligation to register with the Interstate Land Sales Division, the developer or sales agent must give the buyer a copy of the current property report before the buyer signs a contract. Otherwise, the buyer has up to 2 years to cancel the contract and get their money back. That fact must also be clearly set forth in all contracts. You may have the right to void the contract if the subdivision has not been registered with HUD or you were not given a property report. Furthermore, if the developer has represented that it will provide or complete roads, water, sewer, gas, electricity, or recreational facilities in its property report, in its advertising, or in its sales promotions. The developer must obligate itself to do so in the contract, clearly and conditionally (except for acts of nature or impossibility of performance). In addition to the right to a full disclosure of information about the lot, the prospective buyer may have the right to void the contract and receive a refund of their money if the developer has failed to register the subdivision with HUD or has failed to supply the purchaser with a property report. While a purchaser may have the right to void the contract with the developer under these conditions, the purchaser may still be liable for contract payments to a third party if that contract has been assigned to a financing institution or some similar entity. The registration is retained by HUD and is available for public inspection. If the property report contains misstatements of fact, if there are omissions, if fraudulent sales practices are used, or if other provisions of the law have been violated, the purchaser may also sue to recover damages and actual costs and expenses in court against the developer. However, depending on when your sale occurred, you may be barred from taking further action due to the Act's statute of limitations. Your attorney can advise you further on this matter. "Cooling-Off" Period
Even if you received the property report prior to the time of your signing of the contract or agreement, you have the right to revoke the contract or agreement by notice to the seller until midnight of the seventh day following the signing of the contract. You should contact the developer, preferably in writing, if you wish to revoke your contract and receive a refund of any money paid to date. Even if the property report is delivered to you before you sign a sales agreement ... the law gives you a "cooling off " period. This right cannot be waived.
A Word about the Interstate Land Sales Division
The HUD unit which administers the law, examines the developer's registration statement, and registers the land sales operator is the Interstate Land Sales Division. Except for disclosure purposes, this office is not concerned with zoning or land use planning and has no control over the quality of the subdivision. It does not dictate what land can be sold, to whom, or at what price. It cannot act as a purchaser's attorney. But it will help purchasers secure the rights given to them by the Interstate Land Sales Full Disclosure Act. HUD is authorized by law to conduct investigations and public hearings, to subpoena witnesses and secure evidence, and to seek court injunctions to prevent violations of the law. If necessary, HUD may seek criminal indictments. HUD is authorized by law to conduct investigations, if necessary, seek criminal indictments. Exemptions from the Law
The prospective buyer should be aware that not all promotional land sales operations are covered by the law. If the land sales program is exempt, no registration is required by HUD and there will be no property report. Here are some of the specific situations for which the statute allows exemptions without review by HUD. Sale of:

Tracts of fewer than 100 lots which are not otherwise exempt.
Lots in a subdivision where every lot is 20 acres or more in size.
Lots upon which a residential, commercial, or industrial building has been erected or where a sales contract obligates the seller to build one within two years.
Certain lots which are sold only to residents of the State or metropolitan area in which the subdivision is located.
Certain low volume sales operations (no more than 12 lots a year).
Certain lots that meet certain local codes and standards and are zoned for single family residences or are limited to single family residences by enforceable codes and restrictions.
Certain lots, contained in multiple sites of fewer than 100 lots each, offered pursuant to a common promotional plan.

Other exemptions are available which are not listed above. If you have reason to believe that your sale is not exempt and may still be covered by the law, contact the Interstate Land Sales Division.
Know the Developer
Knowing your rights under the law is the first step in making a sensible land purchase. To exercise those rights you also must know something about the honesty and reliability of the developer who offers the subdivision that interest you. Don't fail to ask questions. Whether you are contacted by a sales agent on the telephone or by mail, at a promotional luncheon or dinner, in a sales booth at a shop-ping center, or in the course of your own inspection of the subdivision, make it your business to find out all you can about the company and the property. In addition, get any oral promises or representations in writing. Don't fail to ask questions. If you are seriously interested in buying a lot, ask if the company is registered with HUD or is entitled to an exemption. Request a copy of the property report and take the time to study it carefully and thoroughly. If you still have unanswered questions, delay any commitment until you have investigated. Discuss current prices in the area with local independent brokers. Talk to other people who have purchased lots. A local Chamber of Commerce, Better Business Bureau, or consumer protection group may have information about the seller's reputation. Inquire through county or municipal authorities about local ordinances or regulations affecting property similar to that which you plan to buy. Don't be high-pressured by sales agents.
Know the Facts about the Lot
Once you have decided on an appealing subdivision, inspect the property. Don't buy "site unseen." Check the developer's plans for the project and know what you are getting with your lot purchase. It's a good idea to make a list of the facts you will need to know. Some of the questions you should be asking, and answering, are these:

How large will the development become?
What zoning controls are specified?
What amenities are promised?
What provision has the developer made to assure construction and maintenance?
What are the provisions for sewer and water service?
Are all of the promised facilities and utilities in the contract?
Will there be access roads or streets to your property and how will they be surfaced? Who maintains them? How much will they cost?
Will you have clear title to the property? What liens, reservations, or encumbrances exist?
Will you receive a deed upon purchase or a recordable sales contract?
What happens to your payments? Are they placed in a special escrow account to pay for the property or are they spent at once by the developer?
If the developer defaults on the mortgage or goes bankrupt, could you lose your lot and investment to date to satisfy a claim against the development?
What happens when the developer moves out? Is there a homeowners' association to take over community management?
Are there restrictions against using the lot for a campsite until you are ready to build?
Are there any annual maintenance fees or special assessments required of property owners?

This is a partial list of points to consider before you commit your money or your signature.
Know What You are Doing
Interstate land sales promotions often are conducted in a high-pressure atmosphere that sweeps unsophisticated buyers along. Before they are aware that they have made a commitment, these buyers may have signed a sales contract and started to make payments on a lot. They may be delighted with the selection made but, if not, it may be too late for a change of mind.
Nine Dishonest Sales Practices
Here are some of the practices avoided by reliable sales operations. Watch out for them and exercise sales resistance if you suspect they are occurring.
1. Concealing or misrepresenting facts about current and resale value. Sales agents may present general facts about the area's population growth, industrial or residential development, and real estate price levels as if they apply to your specific lot. You may be encouraged to believe that your piece of land represents an investment which will increase in value as regional development occurs. A sales agent may tell you that the developer will resell the lot if you request. This promise may not be kept. Future resale is difficult or impossible in many promotional developments because much of your purchase price -sometimes as much as 40 percent- has gone for an intensive advertising campaign and commissions for sales agents. You are already paying a top price and it is unlikely that anyone else would pay you more than you are paying the developer. You may even have to sell for less than the price you paid for the lot originally. Sales promotions often are conducted in a high-pressure atmosphere. Furthermore, when you attempt to sell your lot, you are in competition with the developer, who probably holds extensive, unsold acreage in the same subdivision. In most areas real estate brokers find it impractical to undertake the sale of lots in subdivisions and will not accept such listings. It is unlikely that the lot you purchase through interstate land sales represents an investment in the view of professional land investors. Remember, the elements of value in a piece of land are its usefulness, the supply, the demand, and the buyer's ability to resell it. The Urban Land Institute estimates that land must double in value every five years to justify holding it as an investment. In some areas the cost of holding the land, such as taxes and other assessments, can run as high as 11 percent a year.
2. Failure to honor refund promises or agreements. Some sales promotions conducted by mail or long distance telephone include the offer of a refund if the property has been misrepresented, or if the customer inspects the land within a certain period of time and decides not to buy. When the customers request the refund, they may encounter arguments about the terms of the agreement. The company may even accuse its own agent of having made a money-back guarantee without the consent or knowledge of the developer. Sometimes the promised refund is made but only after a long delay.
3. Misrepresentation of facts about the subdivision. This is where the property report offers an added measure of protection. A sales agent may offer false or incomplete information relating to either a distant subdivision or one which you visit. Misrepresentations often relate to matters such as the legal title, claims against it, latent dangers such as swamps or cliffs, unusual physical features such as poor drainage, restrictions on use, or lack of necessary facilities and utilities. Read the property report carefully with an eye to omissions, generalizations, or
unproved statements that may tend to mislead you. If you are concerned about overlooking something important, discuss the report and the contract with a lawyer who understands real estate matters. The developer also may use advertisements that imply that certain facilities and amenities are currently available when they are not. Read the property report to determine whether these facilities and amenities are actually completed or proposed to be completed in the future. If the company advertises sales on credit terms, the Truth in Lending Act requires the sales contract to set forth fully all terms of financing. This information must include total cost, simple annual interest, and total finance charges.
4. Failure to develop the subdivision as planned. Many buyers rely upon the developer's contractual agreement or an oral promise to develop the subdivision in a certain way. The promised attractions that influenced your purchase -golf course, marina, swimming pool- may never materialize after you become an owner. If they are provided, it may be only after a long delay. If you are planning on immediate vacation use of the property or are working toward a specific retirement date, you may find that promised special features of the development are not available when you need them.
5. Failure to deliver deeds, title insurance policies. Documents relating to the sales transaction may not be delivered as promised. Some sales in the promotional land development industry are made by contract for a deed to be delivered when the purchaser makes the last payment under the terms of the contract. A dishonest developer may fail to deliver the deed or deliver it only after a long delay. A sales agent may offer false or incomplete information.
6. Abusive treatment and high-pressure sales tactics. Some sales agents drive prospective customers around a subdivision in automobiles equipped with citizen band radios which provide a running commentary on lot sales in progress. The customer may be misled by this and other sales techniques to believe that desirable lots are selling rapidly and that a hurried choice must be made. Hurrying the buyers into a purchase they may later regret is only one ploy of high-pressure sales agents. More offensive is abusive language used to embarrass customers who delay an immediate decision to buy. In some instances hesitant buyers have been isolated in remote or unfamiliar places where transportation is controlled by the sales agent or the agent's organization.
7. Failure to make good on sales inducements. Free vacations, gifts, savings bonds, trading stamps, and other promised inducements are used to lure people to sales presentations or to development sites. These promised treats may never materialize. Sometimes special conditions are attached to the lure or a customer is advised that gifts go only to lot purchasers. A "free vacation" may be the means of delivering the prospective buyer to a battery of high-pressure sales agents in a distant place. The promised attractions may never materialize.
8. "Bait and switch" tactics. Lots are frequently advertised at extremely low prices. When prospective buyers appear, they are told that the low-priced lots are all sold and then are pressured to buy one that is much more expensive. If the cheaper lot is available, it may be located on the side of a cliff or in another inaccessible location. If accessible, it may be much too small for a building lot or have other undesirable features. The buyers may be lured to the property with a certificate entitling them to a "free" lot. Often the certificate bears a face value of $500 to $1,000. If the buyers attempt to cash it in, the amount is simply included in the regular price (often inflated) of the lot they choose. Often this so-called "bait and switch" technique has a delayed fuse. Buyers who purchase an unseen lot for later retirement may be unpleasantly surprised when they visit the development. The lot they have paid for may be remote from other homes, shopping, and medical facilities. It may be insufficiently developed for use. When the buyers complain, sales personnel attempt to switch them to a more expensive lot, applying the money paid for the original lot to an inflated price for the new one and tacking on additional financing charges. If the unhappy purchasers lack sufficient funds to accept this alternative, they are left with an unusable, unmarketable first choice. Some sales agents provide a running commentary on lot sales in progress.
9. Failure to grant rights under the Interstate Land Sales Full Disclosure Act. Purchasers may not be given copies of the property report before they sign a sales contract. Some sales agents withhold this detailed statement until customers choose a specific lot. Sometimes the buyers receive the report in a mass of promotional materials and legal documents. Unaware that the report is in their possession, they fail to read and understand it before signing a sales contract.

For more information regrading Inspections visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Child Safety

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 10:48:36 -0600

Childproofing Your Home - 12 Safety Devices to Protect Your Children

About 2-1/2 million children are injured or killed by hazards in the home each year. The good news is that many of these incidents can be prevented by using simple child safety devices on the market today.

Any safety device you buy should be sturdy enough to prevent injury to your child, yet easy for you to use. It's important to follow installation instructions carefully. In addition, if you have older children in the house, be sure they re-secure safety devices. Remember, too, that no device is completely childproof; determined youngsters have been known to disable them.

You can childproof your home for a fraction of what it would cost to have a professional do it. And safety devices are easy to find. You can buy them at hardware stores, baby equipment shops, supermarkets, drug stores, home and linen stores, and through mail order catalogues.

Here are some child safety devices that can help prevent many injuries to young children.

1 Use Safety Latches and Locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas to help prevent poisonings and other injuries. Safety latches and locks on cabinets and drawers can help prevent children from gaining access to medicines and household cleaners, as well as knives and other sharp objects.

Look for safety latches and locks that adults can easily install and use, but are sturdy enough to withstand pulls and tugs from children. Safety latches are not a guarantee of protection, but they can make it more difficult for children to reach dangerous substances. Even products with child-resistant packaging should be locked away, out of reach; this packaging is not childproof.

Typical cost of a safety latch or lock: less than $2.

2 Use Safety Gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas. Safety gates can help keep children away from stairs or rooms that have hazards in them. Look for safety gates that children cannot dislodge easily, but that adults can open and close without difficulty. For the top of stairs, gates that screw to the wall are more secure than "pressure gates."

New safety gates that meet safety standards display a certification seal from the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA). If you have an older safety gate, be sure it doesn't have "V" shapes that are large enough for a child's head and neck to fit into.

Typical cost of a safety gate: $13 to $40.

3 Use Door Knob Covers and Door Locks to help prevent children from entering rooms and other areas with possible dangers. Door knob covers and door locks can help keep children away from places with hazards, including swimming pools.

Be sure the door knob cover is sturdy enough not to break, but allows a door to be opened quickly by an adult in case of emergency. By restricting access to potentially hazardous rooms in the home, door knob covers could help prevent many kinds of injuries. To prevent access to swimming pools, door locks should be placed high out of reach of young children. Locks should be used in addition to fences and door alarms. Sliding glass doors, with locks that must be re-secured after each use, are often not an effective barrier to pools.

Typical cost of a door knob cover: $1 and door lock: $5 and up.

4 Use Anti-Scald Devices for faucets and shower heads and set your water heater temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help prevent burns from hot water. Anti-scald devices for regulating water temperature can help prevent burns.

Consider using anti-scald devices for faucets and showerheads. A plumber may need to install these. In addition, if you live in your own home, set water heater temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help prevent burns from hot water.

Typical cost of an anti-scald device: $6 to $30.

5 Use Smoke Detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries.

Check smoke detectors once a month to make sure they're working.

If detectors are battery-operated, change batteries at least once a year or consider using 10-year batteries.

Typical cost of a smoke detector: less than $10.

6 Use Window Guards and Safety Netting to help prevent falls from windows, balconies, decks, and landings. Window guards and safety netting for balconies and decks can help prevent serious falls.

Check these safety devices frequently to make sure they are secure and properly installed and maintained. There should be no more than four inches between the bars of the window guard. If you have window guards, be sure at least one window in each room can be easily used for escape in a fire. Window screens are not effective for preventing children from falling out of windows.

Typical cost of a window guard or safety netting: $8 to $16.

7 Use Corner and Edge Bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges of furniture and fireplaces. Corner and edge bumpers can be used with furniture and fireplace hearths to help prevent injuries from falls or to soften falls against sharp or rough edges.

Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture or hearth edges.

Typical cost of a corner and edge bumper: $1 and up.

8 Use Outlet Covers and Outlet Plates to help prevent electrocution. Outlet covers and outlet plates can help protect children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.

Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.

Typical cost of an outlet cover: less than $2.

9 Use a Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detector outside bedrooms to help prevent CO poisoning. A carbon monoxide (CO) detector can help prevent CO poisoning. Consumers should install CO detectors near sleeping areas in their homes. Households that should use CO detectors include those with gas or oil heat or with attached garages.

Typical cost of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector: $30 to $70.

10 Cut Window Blind Cords; use Safety Tassels and Inner Cord Stops to help prevent children from strangling in blind cord loops. Window blind cord safety tassels on miniblinds and tension devices on vertical blinds and drapery cords can help prevent deaths and injuries from strangulation in the loops of cords. Inner cord stops can help prevent strangulation in the inner cords of window blinds.

For older miniblinds, cut the cord loop, remove the buckle, and put safety tassels on each cord. Be sure that older vertical blinds and drapery cords have tension or tie-down devices to hold the cords tight. When buying new miniblinds, verticals, and draperies, ask for safety features to prevent child strangulation.

11 Use Door Stops and Door Holders to help prevent injuries to fingers and hands. Door stops and door holders on doors and door hinges can help prevent small fingers and hands from being pinched or crushed in doors and door hinges.

Be sure any safety device for doors is easy to use and is not likely to break into small parts, which could be a choking hazard for young children.

Typical cost of a door stop and door holder: less than $4.

12 Use a Cordless Phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they're in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas.

Cordless phones help you watch your child continuously, without leaving the vicinity to answer a phone call. Cordless phones are especially helpful when children are in or near water, whether it's the bathtub, the swimming pool, or the beach.

FOR MORE INFO. VISIT: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Can a comprehensive Home Inspection be performed in one Hour?

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Tue, 24 Feb 2009 14:56:28 -0600

John M. Acaron, CHI, CMI / (850-814-3889)

In our opinion, no home inspector, in any case, regardless of qualifications, certifications, or experience, can perform a comprehensive and thorough home inspection in an hour or less. Any home inspection performed in an hour cannot be a thorough inspection. A professional Home Inspector who spends an hour inspecting a home is taking advantage of their clients, making a mockery of the home inspection profession, and acting negligent in the process. By the time the inspector set up his equipment, survey the area (property), addresses in detail the basic systems (Roof, Electrical, Plumbing and HVAC systems) in the house, provide preliminary brief to the client and store his equipment in his vehicle no less than a minimum of 2 + hours will be spent.

The following are a few things you may want to check to make sure you don't refer to your client the "1 hour home inspector":

The Home Inspector is not certified and has minimal credentials. This is a warning that the home inspector may not have the knowledge or experience to inspect a home properly. The reason this inspector is so fast is because he or she may not know what to look for. The inspector can end up missing conditions or they may even be oblivious to certain warning signs within a home. Here in Florida, home inspectors don't need to be licensed, certified or anything else to perform a home inspection. So in theory anybody off the street can call him or she a professional Home Inspector - scary isn't it? This is why we have organizations like InterNACHI, ESA, IAQA or ICC to certify inspectors through tests and education so you know you can gauge whether a home inspector is actually knowledgeable enough to inspect a home.

The inspector performs numerous home inspections a day. These home inspectors schedule too many inspections a day and rush through each home inspection to get to the next. Look out for this! The correct thing to do is to provide your client home inspection companies that their inspectors perform one or two inspections a day. This way he or she is not rushed and can spend the appropriate amount of time inspecting the home for your client. Be sure to ask how many inspections a home inspector performs a day. "A Happy Client = Referrals"

The inspector cost for the inspection is priced to low. The inspector doesn't charge enough for the home inspection and ends up short changing your clients with the "1 hour inspection". This means if your client pay a little he or she get a little, probably an hour. These inspectors are usually the ones that get first time homebuyers and Real Estates agents because they are the cheapest. I know that a lot of homebuyer's and particularly first timers and even some agents don't understand the purpose of a home inspection and how to refer a home inspection company. Do your research.

To be a Professional Home Inspector you must be educated, well-trained, and training should be an ongoing process. Education, Experience and Expertise are the key elements to determine if a Professional Home Inspector can perform an accurate and un-bias home inspection in the correct time frame. The job requires integrity, honesty, and determination and adherent to the standard of practice and ethical codes dictated by his or her professional trade association. For more info. visit:

www.HOMEINSPECTORUSA.biz or www.PanamaCityHomeInspector.com

Be prepare for a Home Inspection

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Tue, 24 Feb 2009 14:54:59 -0600

No home is perfect. Anything from major damage to minor maintenance issues are often found. Even new homes are not immune - they could have problems with the plumbing, electrical system, heating and cooling system, or the roofing system just to name a few.

For buyers, a Home Inspection vital to uncovering issues a home may have but are invisible to the untrained eye. Even if the home inspection finds more problems than you're comfortable with and you move on to a different home to start the process all over again, it is money well spent.

A Home inspection will give you the opportunity to ask the seller to make the repairs found during the home inspection before you buy, or to back out of the contract. So be sure to ask for the "inspection contingency" when you begin to enter negotiations with the seller. This allows you to set a limit on the cost of repairs to the home. If the Home Inspector estimates that repairs will cost more than the limit, the contract is voided. It is a good way to protect yourself from ending up with a home that requires repairs that you are unable or unwilling to pay for.

Before the home inspector arrives, there are a few things you should know. There are no federal regulations governing home inspectors. The laws are going to differ state by state. Therefore it's important to interview your home inspector or Inspection Company prior to hiring them. Since each state is going to have their own standards of certification for inspectors - and some don't even have any - credibility is a big issue in choosing the right home inspector. Ask what certifications your inspector holds and what associations he or she belongs to.

Most associations such as the InterNational Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI), American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), and National Association of Home Inspectors, Inc. have membership requirements that include minimum levels of experience and training as well as codes of ethics. There are also several state-level associations that your inspector may be a member of. Ask your inspector and then visit the association's website.

Once your home inspector has arrived, it is recommended that you accompany him or her on the inspection of the property. This is so you can become familiar with the home and its systems as well as exactly what repairs the inspector recommends and why. You might also want to prepare a list of items that you've seen in the home that you feel are cause for concern as well as any questions you may have. The inspection is a great time to find out where the home's water and gas shutoffs are and where the main shut off for the electricity is.

Here are some other suggestions for homeowners:

Accessibility:
Make sure that all areas of the home are accessible, especially to the attic and crawl space. It's also a good idea to trim any trees and shrubs that may make an inspection of the exterior of the property difficult.

Housekeeping:
The inspector may photograph your home for the inspection report, so clearing the clutter and moving vehicles from the front of the home will help the inspection go smoother.

Maintenance:
Repair minor things like leaky faucets, missing door handles and trim.

For more informarmation relative to this topic visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Maintaining Your Water Heater

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Tue, 24 Feb 2009 14:26:45 -0600

Most people don't give any thought to their water heater-they just turn on the faucet and expect hot water to come out. Keep your water heater in peak operating condition by performing some simple routine maintenance.

One step you can take is to drain your tank. How often you need to do this depends upon the sediment buildup you are getting in your tank. Some experts recommend draining once a year. I recommend draining your tank once, and checking sediment buildup. Check it six months or a year later and compare the amount of build up to your previous amount. This will give you an idea on how often you need to drain your tank. If you have more sediment, you would want to drain more often. Less sediment, drain less often. Come up with a good schedule, that will keep your sediment build up to a minimum.

To drain the tank:

Turn off the power source to the water heater. You do not want it to heat while empty. This is very important. Failure to do so may cause damage to the water heater. Turn off the water supply to the tank. Locate the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Looks like a hose spigot. Connect a hose to this and place the hose in a basement drain or sump. If this is the first time you are draining, I recommend running the water through a strainer to judge sediment build up. If you already know your level, continue to the next step. Open the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater. Most experts recommend draining 3/4 of the water from the tank. If this is the first time I recommend a complete flush. Close valve and fill tank. Once tank is full turn power source to tank back on. If you notice lots of sediment at the end of the draining process, you may have to do this several times to clear out the build up. This is common if this is the first time a unit has been drained in quite a while. Good luck!

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

2009 Health Expo Panama City Beach Florida

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Fri, 06 Feb 2009 08:03:48 -0600

The 2009 Health Expo took place on Wednesday 4 February at Edgewater Beach Resort Convention Center over three hundred companies from the medical community in Panama City and Panama City Beach show- cased their services and capabilities. HOMEINSPECTORUSA show-cased the Mold Screening and testing services as well as the Home Inspection core capabilities and expertise.

Here are a few photos depicting our booth. The event was a total success for our company. Many leads were acquired and several inspections were booked. The Health Fair will become a continue event for years to come due to the extraordinary success. So, you should be in the look out for the next year event.

Inspected Once, Inspected Right! Anyone Else is Just Looking Around!

We are a local "INDEPENDENT" Professional Home Inspection & Environmental (Mold testing) company working just for your best interest before the investment is finalized. HOME INSPECTOR USA staff are certified Home, Commercial & Environmental (Mold & Allergens) Inspector's (IAC2, ESA, EMSL, IAQA, InterNACHI & ProLab). We at HOME INSPECTOR USA, we're committed to providing the highest level of professional service in the home inspection industry at competitive rates. HOME INSPECTOR USA programs conform to state, EPA, VA, HUD, InterNACHI and FHA standards. HOME INSPECTOR USA is the premier home inspection and mold inspection company in the area.

HOME INSPECTOR USA has earned the continued loyalty of many praised business and numerous residential and commercial clients who rely on us to meet their needs, and trust in our tradition of delivering complete, accurate, and reliable results. Allow us to earn your trust and business as well! We are not a contractor or affiliated with any contractors repair companies, appraisal firms, real estate agents or mold remediation company. HOME INSPECTOR USA is a local (Panama City Beach, Florida) company, founded in Bay County, Florida. Our continue success has enable us to expand our professional home inspection services to the North Central Florida area.

Got Mold? EVERY HOME SHOULD BE TESTED FOR MOLD

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Fri, 06 Feb 2009 08:02:03 -0600

According to Dr. John D. Shane, Vice President of Laboratory services of PRO-LAB millions of homes across America have hidden water leaks that are promoting mold growth that can expose homeowners to mold spores. Mold has a potential to cause health problems like allergies, irritation (to lungs, eyes, skin, throat, nose) and are potentially toxic. Inhaling and touching mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals and normally healthy individuals may become sensitive to mold after exposure.

The EPA states that, "It is important to take precautions to limit your exposure to mold and mold spores. Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores". The EPA also recommends that if you suspect you have a hidden mold problem you should consider hiring an experienced professional to avoid exposure to potentially massive doses of mold spores.

Mold damages what it grows on. The longer it grows the more damage it can cause. If there is a mold problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly. Mold can be hidden, growing on the water from a hidden leak, and can develop into a potentially large problem if not caught in time.

Testing your home on a regular basis is a prudent way to prevent small problems from growing into a costly and unhealthy situation, and always avoid exposing yourself and others to mold.

For more information relative to MOLD visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

John M. Acaron, IAC2 certified

850-814-3889 Bringing Clean Air to Life

Be prepare for a Home Inspection

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Fri, 06 Feb 2009 07:58:15 -0600

No home is perfect. Anything from ajor damage to minor maintenance issues are often found. Even new homes are not immune - they could have problems with the plumbing, electrical system, heating and cooling system, or the roofing system just to name a few.

For buyers, a Home Inspection vital to uncovering issues a home may have but are invisible to the untrained eye. Even if the home inspection finds more problems than you're comfortable with and you move on to a different home to start the process all over again, it is money well spent.

Housekeeping:
The inspector may photograph your home for the inspection report, so clearing the clutter and moving vehicles from the front of the home will help the inspection go smoother.

Maintenance:
Repair minor things like leaky faucets, missing door handles and trim.

For more informarmation relative to this topic visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Do Your Granite Countertops Emit Radon?

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 22:21:29 -0600

There have been suggestions that granite countertops could emit radon gas. As with so many things, the answer depends on whom you ask. The Environmental Protection Agency "does not believe sufficient data exist to conclude that the types of granite commonly used in countertops are significantly increasing indoor radon levels." Read more about their position on this issue here. The Marble Institute of America says in a white paper "that radon levels associated with natural stone countertops in homes are low in comparison to background levels of exposure and natural stone is a minor contributor compared to other sources of radon gas." Some environmental groups believe there may be a danger. See a discussion at Green Building Elements.

Foe more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

INSPECTOR CARTOONS

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Sat, 20 Dec 2008 17:41:33 -0600

fOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Can a comprehensive Home Inspection be performed in one Hour?

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:55:24 -0600

John M. Acaron, CHI, CMI / (850-814-3889)

The following are a few things you may want to check to make sure you don't refer to your client the "1 hour home inspector":

www.HOMEINSPECTORUSA.biz or www.PanamaCityHomeInspector.com

That's a lot of money for only a few hours work! Home Inspection

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:03:00 -0500

Many times we here: "That's a lot of money for only a few hours work!" As more and more home inspectors use time-saving, report generating software, include pictures (worth a thousand words) and even generate their reports on-site, they also start to make it look easy. I recently ran across a version of the story in How to Become a Marketing Superstar, a book by Jeffrey J. Fox. Anyway, the story goes as follows: That's a lot of money for only a few hours work!

Pablo Picasso, the painter, was dining at a restaurant in New York City. A fan introduced herself to him and gushed at how thrilled she was to meet the great artist and how she loved his work. Encouraged by Mr. Picasso's polite acceptance, the fan begged, "Oh, Mr. Picasso, would you draw me a sketch?" Picasso grabbed some paper, and with a pen, promptly sketched the waiters passing parfaits. As the woman reached for the sketch, Pablo Picasso said, "Madame. That will be $10,000." Shocked, she replied, "But that only took you 5 minutes." "No Madame," replied Picasso, "it took me 50 years."

Picasso priced his service to its value, not to the cost of manufacture. Picasso did not price his service based on the cost of the paper plus the cost of ink plus some hourly wage... and nor should a home inspector.

"You get what you pay for.........

For more information relative to professional a home inspection visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Mistakes to Avoid

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 08:17:19 -0500

"panama city beach, panama city, santa rosa beach, seagrove beach, seacrest beach, rosemary beach, grayton beach, seaside, destin, sandestin, watercolor, alys beach, wild heron, crystal beach, carillon beach, callaway, lynn haven, springfield, gainesville and surrounding cities" 3 Deadly Mistakes Every Home Buyer should avoid

Deadly Mistake #1: Thinking you can't afford it. Today, buying the home of your dreams is easier than ever before. Many people who thought that buying the home they wanted was simply out of their reach are now enjoying a new lifestyle in their very own new home.
Buying a home is the smartest financial decision you will ever make. In fact, most American and Canadian homeowners would be financially broke at retirement if it weren't for one saving grace - the equity in their home. Furthermore, mortgage rates are more flexible today than ever and tax allowances favor home ownership. Real estate values have always risen steadily. Of course there are peaks and valleys, but the long term the trend is a consistent increase. This means that every month when you make a mortgage payment the amount that you owe on the home goes down and the value typically increases. This "owe less-worth more" situation is called equity build-up and is the reason you can't afford not to buy.

Even if you have little money for a down payment or credit problems, chances are that you can still buy that new home. It just comes down to knowing the right strategies, and working with the right people. See below.

Deadly Mistake #2: Not hiring a buyer's agent to represent you. Buying property is a complex and stressful task. In fact, it is often the biggest single investment you will make in your lifetime. At the same time, real estate transactions have become increasingly complicated. New technology, laws, procedures and competition from other buyers require buyer agents to perform at an ever-increasing level of professionalism. For many homebuyers, the process turns into a terrible, stressful ordeal. In addition, making the wrong decisions can end up costing you thousands of dollars. It does not have to be this way!
Work with a buyer's agent who has a keen understanding of the real estate business and who is on your side. Buyer's agents have a fiduciary duty to you. That means they are loyal to only you and are obligated to look out for your best interests. Buyer's agents can help you find the best home, the best lender and the best inspector. Best of all, in most cases, the buyer's agent is paid out of the seller's commission, even though he/she works for you. Trying to buy a home without an agent at all is, well... unthinkable.

Deadly Mistake #3: Getting a cheap inspection.
Buying a home is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make. This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection. The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the home being inspected. The additional cost of hiring a certified proffesional inspector is almost insignificant. As a homebuyer, you have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages and trying to get the best deals. Do not stop now. Do not let your real estate agent, a patty-cake inspector or anyone else talk you into skimping here. HOMEINSPECTORUSA is an independent professional home inspection company that cares only for his clients. Education, Experiance and Expertise set us apart from the average home inspector.

HOMEINSPECTORUSA inspectors perform the best inspections by far. We are degree engineers, Mold certified technicians with vast experience in residential & commercial construction and certified InterNACHI inspectors. InterNACHI certified inspectors do more, they deserve more, and yes they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor...and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve. Inspected Once, Inspected Right!

IT'S NOT NECESSARY TO LEAVE YOUR COMPUTER, SIMPLY "CLICK BELOW" AND SEND YOUR PHONE NUMBER TO MY CELL PHONE... I'LL CALL YOU WITHIN MINUTES.
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Can mold cause health problems?

John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI (HOMEINSPECTORUSA, LLC) — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 07:55:04 -0500

Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens, irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances.

Allergic reactions to mold are common and include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. The most common health problems caused by indoor mold are allergy symptoms. Although other and more serious problems can occur, people exposed to mold commonly report problems such as:

Nasal and sinus congestion

Cough Wheeze/breathing difficulties

Sore throat

Skin and eye irritation

Upper respiratory infections (including sinus)

Are the risks greater for some people? There is wide variability in how different people are affected by indoor mold. However, the long term presence of indoor mold growth may eventually become unhealthy for anyone. The following types of people may be affected more severely and sooner than others:

Infants and children

Elderly people

Individuals with respiratory conditions or sensitivities such as allergies and asthma

Persons having weakened immune systems (for example, people with HIV infection, chemotherapy patients, organ transplant recipients)

In some individuals, exposure to indoor mold can also can lead to asthma or to a lung disease resembling severe inflammatory asthma called allergic bronchopulmonary aspergillosis. This latter condition, which occurs only in a minority of people with asthma, is characterized by wheezing, low-grade fever, and coughing up of brown-flecked masses or mucus plugs. Skin testing, blood tests, X-rays, and examination of the sputum for fungi can help establish the diagnosis. Corticosteroid drugs are usually effective in treating this reaction; immunotherapy (allergy shots) is not helpful.

Fungi or microorganisms related to mold / fungi may cause other health problems similar to allergic diseases. Some kinds of Aspergillus may cause several different illnesses, including both infections and allergy. These fungi may lodge in the airways or a distant part of the lung and grow until they form a compact sphere known as a "fungus ball." In people with lung damage or serious underlying illnesses, Aspergillus may grasp the opportunity to invade the lungs or the whole body. Those with special health concerns should consult a medical professional if they feel their health is affected by indoor mold.

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