Mike's Blog

Draw Inspections

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:56:23 -0500

I have signed up for a few draw inspection companies, and I wanted to remark about them. They are a great way to keep busy in slow times and help you to see varying levels of construction. Draw inspections are basic inspections on new construction and how far along a project has come. Scheduling a few near each other warrants benefits- and even though they may not pay much, if one gets many in a small area they can add up. I have heard of inspectors making up to $20K alone a year doing draws. Do any other inspectors out there do draw inspections? If so, which companies are you with, and which bring the most business? If you're not doing them- why not?

Home Maintenance Checklist

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Fri, 07 Sep 2007 14:28:29 -0500

I have accumulated many different tasks for home maintenance and wanted to add them here. I will add more when I am able.

Monthly Checklist:

Check the air filter for your air conditioner and clean it or replace it as necessary
Vacuum the air supply and air return registers to remove dust.
Check all fire extinguishers to make sure they are fully charged.
Clean garbage disposal blades by grinding up ice cubes. Freshen with citrus fruit rinds, or even a whole lemon, and baking soda.
Check for cracks and separations in caulking around the following: sinks, bathtubs, toilets, faucets, countertops, back splashes, ceramic tile walls, ceramic floors, window sills and other areas.
Clean or replace a dirty filter in the range hood fan.
Adjust sprinkler heads to ensure proper coverage.

Six-Month Checklist:

Check the caulking and weatherstripping around exterior windows and doors.
Inspect exterior paint surfaces. Touch-up as needed.
Check screws on door lock sets and hardware. Tighten up as needed.
Test and clean smoke detectors and change the batteries if needed,
Lubricate bi-fold and by-pass doors if necessary; lubricate squeaky hinges if necessary.
Clean sliding door tracks and apply silicone spray. Do not use oil. Oil moving parts of garage doors.
Check fire extinguishers to ensure they are fully charged.
Check electrical extension and appliance cords.
Visually inspect your roof from the ground for broken shingles.
Check and clean gutters and downspouts.
Have HVAC Technician perform seasonal check-up on your AC.
Check water supply lines and valves for leaks.
Inspect windows and screens for condition.
Insulate water lines that are subject to freezing.
Clean fireplace ash.

Annual Checklist:

Repeat your six-month inspection and maintenance.
Check attic vents for insulation blockage.
Inspect inside attic for signs of roof leaks.
Check cabinet drawers and hinges for proper alignment.
Have chimney professionally cleaned as necessary.
Pressure clean roof tiles, pool deck, driveway, and walks.
Check roof and around vents, skylights and chimneys for leaks. Repair as necessary.
If there is no ridge vent in your attic, keep gable vents open year-round to ensure proper ventilation.
Check and trim trees.
Seal driveway and walkway cracks.
Check for proper drainage away from house.

Does anyone else have any they would like to include?

The Foundation of a Good Home

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Sun, 02 Sep 2007 22:37:35 -0500

A home's foundation holds the structure above ground, prevents it from moving and shifting with the earth it sits on, and helps protect against both cold and moisture.

The type of foundation can vary depending on the year a home was built, the area's climate and weather patterns, and whether the structure was built with a basement or a crawlspace.

The appearance and nature of cracks in a foundation may indicate water leaks, weakness in the event of a major natural disaster (flood, hurricane, earthquake), and structural issues.

Cracks and disproportion, or not being level, are typically due to settling, which can be minor or sometimes major. Over time, all foundations will settle.

A home inspector will establish the type of a home's foundation and inspect it for possible problems or defects. This will normally consist of examining a structure's exterior, where foundation cracks and shifting are often visible, and the interior, normally focusing on the crawlspace or basement.

The average U.S. house weighs 50 tons, with the average foundation at 7 1/2 tons. In new construction, foundations can account for 8 to 15% of the total budget.

Older homes may be built with stone, mortar, or brick foundations, all of which can be prone to cracks and leaks over periods of time and weathering. Most homes constructed in the later half of the 20th century and onward are built on foundations made from combinations of concrete and steel reinforcements, which can be built in many different ways.

Poured concrete foundations are usually reinforced with steel. Concrete slabs are a flat piece of poured concrete. They can be difficult to inspect due to the foundation being hidden and sometimes inaccessible and can be more prone to insect problems. Cement block, or concrete block, foundations many times are used in dwellings with basements, but even the smallest of horizontal cracks in them can be a sign of a future repair.

Brick foundations are found typically in older homes and can be prone to seepage, crumbling, settling, or aging of bricks and mortar. Stone foundations are also common in older homes and are prone to seepage and settling.

No matter the type of foundation, inspectors look for multiple key signs in determining the condition of a foundation. Foundation problems at their initial stages can reveal themselves as cracks or heaving, moisture pooling or moisture penetrating hairline cracks that have started to show on walls. In the worst situations, walls may start to slant or buckle, generally at the corners, and the floor may begin to droop or sag. Mud, clay, or soils may start to seep into the basement.

As stated prior, some settling or damage is normal, especially in older homes, but an inspector can help figure out the extent of possible hazards or needed repairs. Sealants and/or reinforcements may be able to slow early signs of trouble. Remember, a good inspector can be the foundation to the sale of your home.

Dyslexic Installer?

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:19:20 -0500

Attached is a photo of an upside down outlet. Sometimes, it's the little things that can get you. Many modern plugs would be unable to be plugged into here, but some older ones could. If the wiring was incorrect, that could pose a risk of shock or fire. Do many other inspectors often see simple errors such as this? What about sellers or buyers?

Unconnected Dryer Vent

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 20:28:20 -0500

This is a photo of a dryer vent in an attic that was either never connected or became disconnected. This can be a fire hazard and cause heating and ventilation problems, among other things. I recommended that it be reconnected properly, of course. It can often be the small things that someone misses that cause large, expensive problems.

I also recommend every homeowner clean their dryer vents at least every 6 months. Not only for my inspected properties, but for everyone. It is typical home maintenance, but it is often left unchecked. This can mean your safety.

The Truth About Repair Costs for Sellers

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 20:16:55 -0500

Sellers of a home can be worried that all items listed in a report that are problematic need to be fixed before the sale goes through.

This is false. Because I represent the interests of buyers only, I admit I will disclose every major or minor thing I notice, which may affect a home's value. It stands to reason it may affect the home's asking price as well. Please understand, as the seller, it may not be 100% necessary to repair the problem, but please be prepared for that possibility.

With pre-listing inspections (dwellings inspected before listed for sale), dwellings often sell more quickly than homes that haven't been inspected until a buyer has placed an offer.

Homes with pre-listing inspections often sell more within range of the asking price as well.

Broken Truss

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 20:08:20 -0500

This is a photo of a broken truss that I took on an inspection recently. This denigrates the integrity of the roof. I always make it a point to inspect the attic before I walk the roof because I often see weak spots such as this. If you are a homeowner, I would recommend checking your attic to see if there is anything that can be a problem for future home-buyers or inspectors. If there is a problem, a qualified and competent carpenter should be called in to do the repairs. I always recommend getting at least three different quotes and taking the middle one. Something like this should not be left to the low-baller.

How often do you see something like this?

Plants and Shrubs

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 19:49:28 -0500

On an inspection I performed, I took this photo of a vine or plant on the side of the stucco. It may not look like much, but plants on the side of a dwelling can cause moisture damage, cracking, or concealed problems to the structure. It is always a good idea to make sure plants do not grow unchecked near a structure; if they are in contact, please move or trim them. It will make for a better inspection and a better dwelling.

Environmental Report for your Neighborhood

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 09:38:07 -0500

JaxHomeSpy offers neighborhood-based environmental reports for your city as well as your neighborhood. These reports typically offer research on Superfund Sites, areas of major environmental concern, air quality (including local polluters), pollutants, chemical polluters, your city's rank compared to other cities, local water quality, carcinogens, pesticides, radioactive material, and more.

With asthma rates on the rise, chemical sensitivities, and people being more environmentally aware and conscious, this report is an invaluable tool in gauging the area you are looking t moving to.

If you are interested in getting this report with your home inspection, or getting this report alone, please call JaxHomeSpy for a quote today.

Targeting FSBO's

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Tue, 21 Aug 2007 12:33:14 -0500

How many inspectors out there target FSBO's? it is a great way to gain more business and to get in touch with a market that is wide-open. Anytime I am driving by a FSBO sign, I will attempt to contact the seller and let them know of my services, typically following up with a letter to their address. My letter consists of the following:

Dear John Doe:

My name is Mike Jewett of JaxHomeSpy, LLC and I noticed you're selling your home. I would like to encourage you to contact me about inspecting your home before it is toured by potential buyers. The advantages of having it inspected now are:

You can have a certified inspector, such as myself, perform the inspection rather than be at the mercy of the buyer's choice of inspector.
I will work around your schedule and am available nights and weekends.
I am able to alert you to any items of immediate personal concern, including radon gas or lead paint.
You can accompany me during the inspection, something normally not done during a buyer's inspection.
You can correct any misstatements in your inspection report before it is generated.
The report will help you price your home realistically if problems exist.
The report may help you substantiate a higher asking price if problems don't exist or have been corrected.
My report will reveal problems ahead of time which:

May make your home viewing more successful.
Gives you time to make repairs and shop for competitive contractors.
Permits you to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report.
Removes over-inflated buyer-procured estimates from any future negotiations.

My report may alert you to any immediate safety issues found (before agents and visitors tour the home).
My report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to your potential buyers.
A "seller inspection" permits a clean home inspection report to be used as a marketing tool.
A "seller inspection" is the ultimate gesture of forthrightness.
My report might relieve prospective buyers' unfounded suspicions before they walk away.
A seller inspection lightens negotiations and 11th-hour re-negotiations.
My report might encourage your buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
The sale is less likely to fall apart (the way they often do) when a buyer's inspection unexpectedly reveals a problem.
Most importantly, my report provides you with full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

I would like to talk with you in person to explain how I can help streamline your real estate sale. And of course I always stand ready to inspect the home you are buying as well. Please contact me any time.

Mike Jewett, Locally Owned & Certified Home Inspector

JaxHomeSpy, LLC

(904) 695-2181

(904) 534-0953

Have you started targeting FSBO's?

Residential Electrical Inspection Checklist

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Tue, 21 Aug 2007 12:19:50 -0500

Residential Electrical Inspection

This brochure is intended to be a general overview of residential electrical requirements.
No claim is made that this information is complete or beyond question.
Additional information and knowledge is needed to properly install electrical wiring that
is essentially free from fire and electric shock hazard.
For assistance, please reference authoritative publications based on the 2005 National
Electrical Code © (the NEC).

General Circuitry

03 NEC 210.11 and 422.12 In addition to the branch circuits installed to supply general illumination and receptacle outlets in dwelling units, the following minimum requirements apply:

· Two 20-amp circuits for the kitchen receptacles

· One 20-amp circuit for the laundry receptacles

· One 20-amp circuit for the bathroom receptacles

· One separate, individual branch circuit for central heating equipment

04 NEC 210.52 Receptacles installed in the kitchen to serve countertop surfaces shall be supplied by
not less than two separate small appliance branch circuits.
05 NEC 300.3 All conductors of the same circuit, including grounding and bonding conductors, shall
be contained in the same raceway, cable, or trench.
06 NEC 408.4 Every circuit and circuit modification shall be legibly identified as to its clear, evident
and specific purpose or use in sufficient detail on a directory located on the face or inside of the
electrical panel doors.
07 NEC 240.3 Generally, the rating of the fuse or circuit breaker determines the minimum size of the
circuit conductor, per the following table:
Minimum Wire Size
Fuse or Circuit Breaker Size Copper Conductor Aluminum Conductor
15 amp 14 n/a
20 amp 12 n/a
30 amp 10 8
40 amp 8 6
50 amp 6 4
Note: Conductors that supply motors, air-conditioning units, and other special equipment may have
overcurrent protection that exceeds the general limitations in the above chart.
08 NEC 406.3 Receptacle outlets shall be of the grounding type, be effectively grounded, and have
proper polarity.
09 NEC 210.52 Generally, receptacle outlets in habitable rooms shall be installed so that no point
measured horizontally along the floor line in any wall space is more than 6‘ from a receptacle outlet.
A receptacle shall be installed in each wall space 2 feet or more in width.
10 NEC 210.52 At kitchen countertops, receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the
wall line is more than 24 inch measured horizontally from a receptacle outlet in that space. Countertop
spaces separated by range tops, sinks or refrigerators are separate spaces.
11 NEC 210.52 A receptacle outlet shall be installed at each counter space 12 inch or wider, and at
each island counter or peninsular space 24 inch by 12 inch or greater. Receptacles shall be located
not more than 20 inch above the countertop, or where mounted below a countertop less than 6 inches
beyond the support base, not more than 12 inch below the countertop.
12 NEC 210.52 & 406.8 At least one receptacle, accessible at grade level and no more than 6.5' above
grade, shall be installed at the front and back of a dwelling and shall have covers that are
weatherproof whether or not an attachment plug is inserted.
13 NEC 210.12 All branch circuits supplying 125-volt, 15 and 20 ampere outlets in dwelling unit
bedrooms shall be protected by a listed arc-fault circuit interrupter device.
Ground-Fault Protection
14 NEC 210.8 Ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) protection shall be provided for all 125-volt, 15 and
20 amp receptacle outlets installed outdoors, in boathouses, garages, unfinished accessory buildings,
crawl spaces at or below grade level, unfinished basements, bathrooms, at kitchen countertops and
within 6' of the outside edge of the sink in laundry rooms, utility rooms, and at wet-bars.
15 NEC 680.71 A hydro-massage bathtub, (a bathtub with a re-circulating piping system,
designed to discharge water upon each use) and its associated components shall have
ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection.
16 NEC 680.71 All 125-volt receptacles not exceeding 30 amperes installed within 5 feet of
the inside walls of a hydromassage bathtub shall be GFCI protected.
17 NEC 680.73 Hydromassage bathtub equipment shall be accessible without damaging the building
structure or finish.
18 NEC 682.33 All circuits rated not more than 60 amps at 120 through 250-volts installed outdoors for
equipment in or adjacent to natural and artificial bodies of water shall have GFCI protection.
Wiring Methods
19 NEC 314.23 All electrical boxes shall be rigidly secured to the building structure.
20 NEC 314.27 Boxes used as the sole support for a ceiling-suspended paddle fan shall be
listed, marked, and not be used for fans weighing more than 70 lbs.
21 NEC 334.30 Type NM (nonmetallic) cable shall be secured at intervals not exceeding 4.5'
and within 12 inch of each box.
22 NEC 314.17 The outer jacket of NM cable shall be secured to the box and extend into the box
a minimum of ¼ inch.
The NEC requires an equipotential bonding grid be installed at outdoor pools, spas, hot tubs, livestock
areas, and for electrical equipment at natural and artificially made bodies of water.
23 NEC 300.14 The minimum length of conductors, including grounding conductors, at all boxes shall be
6 inches with at least 3 inches extending outside the box.
24 NEC 300.4 Where cables are installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood framing
members, the holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 1¼ inch from the
nearest edge of the wood member. If this distance cannot be maintained, or where screws or nails are
likely to penetrate the cable, it shall be protected by a steel plate at least 1/16 inch thick and of
appropriate length and width.
NOTE: Check with local building codes to determine where holes or
notches may be made in joists and supports.
25 NEC 300.22 Type NM cable shall not be installed in spaces specifically fabricated for
environmental air, but may pass perpendicular through joist or stud spaces used as
such.
26 NEC 110.14 Only one conductor shall be installed under a terminal screw. In
boxes with more than one grounding wire, the grounding wires shall be spliced
with a "wire tail" or "pigtail" which is then attached to the grounding
terminal screw of the device.
27 NEC 200.7(C) Where permanently re-identified at each location where it is visible
and accessible, the conductor in type NM cable with white colored insulation may be used as an
ungrounded conductor.
28 NEC 250.134; 314.4; 404.9 All electrical equipment, metal boxes, cover plates, and plaster rings shall
be grounded. All switches, including dimmer switches, shall be grounded.
29 NEC 110.12 & 314.17 Unused openings in boxes shall be effectively closed. If openings in non-metallic
boxes are broken out and not used, the entire box must be replaced.
30 NEC 408.41 Each grounded conductor shall terminate within a panelboard in an individual terminal
that is not used for any other conductor.
31 NEC 110.14 Splices shall be made with an approved splice cap or "wire nut" and shall be made in
approved electrical boxes or enclosures.
32 NEC 314.25 & 410.12 In completed installations, each box shall have a lamp-holder, canopy or device
with an appropriate cover plate.
33 NEC 314.19 Junction boxes shall be installed so that the wiring contained in them can be rendered
accessible without removing any part of the building.
34 NEC 314.16 The volume of electrical boxes shall be sufficient for the number of conductors, devices,
and cable clamps contained within the box. Nonmetallic boxes are marked with their cubic inch
capacity. Use the following table to calculate each box size:
Conductor Size 14 AWG 12 AWG
Each separate insulated wire 2 in3 2.25 in3
All ground wires (combined) 2 in3 2.25 in3
For each device (switch/receptacle) 4 in3 4.4 in3
All internal cable clamps (combined) 2 in3 2.25 in3
Sample Calculation: Four 14/2 w/ground type NMB cables:
8 insulated wires 16 cubic inches
All ground wires 2 cubic inches
1 switch 4 cubic inches
1 receptacle 4 cubic inches
All clamps (combined) 2 cubic inches
Total box volume required 28 cubic inches
35 NEC 410.8 Luminaires (lighting fixtures) installed in clothes closets shall have the following
minimum clearances from the defined storage area (see below):
* 12inch for surface incandescent fixtures
* 6inch for recessed incandescent fixtures
* 6inch for fluorescent fixtures
36 NEC 410.8 Storage space, as applied to an electrical installation in a closet, is the volume
bounded by the sides and back closet walls and planes extending from the closet floor
vertically to a height of 6' or the highest clothes-hanging rod and parallel to the walls at
a horizontal distance of 24inch from the sides and back of the closet walls respectively,
and continuing vertically to the closet ceiling parallel to the walls at a horizontal distance of
12inch or the shelf width, whichever is greater.
37 NEC 410.8 Incandescent luminaires with open or partially enclosed lamps and pendant fixtures or
lamp-holders are not permitted in clothes closets.
38 NEC 410-66 Recessed lighting fixtures installed in insulated ceilings or installed within 1/2inch of
combustible material shall be approved for insulation contact and labeled Type IC.
Equipment Listing and Labeling
39 Minnesota Rules 3800.3620 All electrical equipment,
including luminaires, devices, and appliances used as part of
or in connection with an electrical installation shall be LISTED
AND LABELED by a Nationally Recognized Testing
Laboratory (NRTL) as having been tested and found suitable
for a specific purpose.
40 NEC 110.3 All electrical equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with the listing
requirements and manufacturer's instructions.
all penetrations installed through an
interior air barrier be sealed prior to covering or making inaccessible so that a continuous interior
air barrier is maintained. Sealing for wires and equipment must include the service entrance,
wires, conduit, cables, panels, recessed light fixtures, electronic equipment, heating appliances,
electrical boxes, and fan housings.
Electrical Services
41 NEC 310-15 CONDUCTOR SIZES FOR 120/240 VOLT 3-WIRE, SINGLE-PHASE,
DWELLING SERVICES AND FEEDERS
Copper Aluminum Service Rating
4 AWG 2 AWG 100 amps
1 AWG 2/0 150 amps
2/0 4/0 200 amps
42 NEC 110.14 Listed anti-oxidant compound shall be used on all aluminum conductor terminations,
unless information specifically states that it is not required.
43 NEC 300.7 Portions of raceways or sleeves subject to different temperatures (i.e. passing from the
interior to the exterior of a building) shall be sealed with an approved material to prevent condensation
from entering equipment.
44 NEC 230.54 Service entrance conductors shall be rain-tight and arranged to drain.
45 NEC 300.4 Where raceways containing ungrounded conductors No. 4 or larger enter a cabinet,
box, or enclosure, the conductors shall be protected by a bushing providing a smoothly rounded
insulating surface.
46 NEC 230.70 The service disconnecting means shall be installed at a readily accessible location
either outside a building or structure or inside nearest the point of entrance of the service-entrance
conductors.
47 NEC 230.70 & 240.24 Electrical panels shall be readily accessible and shall not be located in
bathrooms or in the vicinity of easily ignitable materials such as clothes closets.
48 NEC 408.36 Plug-in type overcurrent devices that are back-fed shall be secured by an additional
approved device.
49 NEC 110.26 Sufficient working space shall be provided around electrical
equipment. The depth of that space in the direction of access to live parts shall be a
minimum of 3 feet. The minimum width of that space in front of electrical equipment
shall be the width of the equipment or 30 inches whichever is greater. This workspace
shall be clear and extend from the floor to a height of 6.5'. This space shall not be
used for storage.
50 NEC 110.26 Illumination shall be provided for all working spaces about service equipment and
panelboards.
Grounding
51 NEC 250.50 All grounding electrodes that are present at each building or structure served shall be
bonded together to form the grounding electrode system.
52 NEC 250.50 Permitted electrodes include: 1. Metal underground water pipe in direct contact with
earth for 10 feet or more 2. Metal frame of the building or structure 3. Concrete encased electrodes 4.
Ground ring 5. Rod or pipe electrode 6. Plate electrode 7. Other metal underground systems or
structures.
53 NEC 250.53 A metal underground water pipe shall be supplemented by an additional electrode.
54 NEC 250.64 The grounding electrode conductor shall be continuous, securely fastened and
protected from physical damage.
55 NEC 250.66 The size of the grounding electrode conductor shall be determined by the size of the
service-entrance conductors, per the following chart:
Equivalent Size of Service
Entrance Conductor
Size of the Grounding Electrode
Conductor
Copper Aluminum Copper Aluminum
4 AWG 2 8* 6
1 AWG 2/0 6 4
2/0 or 3/0 4/0 or 250 4 2
*The conductor that is the sole connection to a rod, pipe or plate electrode is not required to be larger
than #6 AWG copper, however smaller conductors require physical protection.
*The conductor that is the sole connection to a concrete encased electrode shall not be required to be
larger than #4 AWG copper.
56 NEC 250.28 A main bonding jumper or the green bonding screw provided by the panel
manufacturer shall be installed in the service panel.
57 NEC 250.104 The interior metal water piping and other metal piping that may become energized
shall be bonded to the service equipment with a bonding jumper sized the same as the grounding
electrode conductor.
Underground Wiring
58 NEC 300.5 Direct buried cable or conduit or other raceways shall meet the following minimum
cover requirements:
Direct Burial Cable Rigid or
Intermediate
Metal Conduit
Non Metallic
Raceway (PVC)
24" 6" 18"
Residential branch circuits rated 20 amps or less at 120 volts or less and with GFCI
protection at their source are allowed a minimum cover of 12"
NOTE: This table does not apply to underground wiring for outdoor pools, spas,
or hot tubs - see NEC Article 680
59 NEC 300.5 Underground service laterals shall have their location identified by a warning ribbon
placed in the trench at least 12" above the underground installation.
60 NEC 300.5 Where subject to movement, direct buried cables or raceways shall be arranged to
prevent damage to the enclosed conductors or connected equipment.
61 NEC 110.14 Wire splicing means for direct burial conductors shall be listed for such use.
62 NEC 300.5 Conductors emerging from underground shall be installed in rigid metal conduit,
intermediate metal conduit, or Schedule 80 rigid nonmetallic conduit from 18" below grade or the
minimum cover distance to the point of termination above ground.

Determining Electric Service Size

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Tue, 21 Aug 2007 11:55:37 -0500

The available service amperage is determinded by the lowest rated of the following components:

Service entrance conductors
Electrical meter & base
Main disconnect
Electrical service panel rating.

For example, you may have 150 amp service connectors, 200 amp meter, 100 amp main disconnect and a pannel rated for a maxiumum of 200 amps. The supply in this case would be limited to 100 amps by the main disconnect.

Examples of Waterproofing a Foundation (Reprinted)

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Tue, 21 Aug 2007 11:51:45 -0500

1. Liquid Rubber Foundation Waterproofing Membranes

are elastomeric polymerized coatings made from liquid rubber - the same quality material your car tires are made from.

Advantages: They are easy to apply, quick to dry, cold applied. You can do it by yourself, by using sprayer, roller or trowel. The liquid cures into an elastic rubber coating, able to fill up current small holes and bridge possible future cracks in foundation wall as the building settles down. Rubber is flexible. They also usually come with a long warranty, and many are environmentally friendly with low solvent content, or solvent free. Very economical.

Disadvantages: Possibility of inconsistency in coverage, but the newest products will help you to determine the "right" thickness by the intensity of color, i.e. if you apply the product and you see any lighter patches, you just add more liquid. Additional surface preparation and curing may be required. If there are bigger cracks or holes in the structure you have to fill in with cement or other trowel-grade material before applying the overall coating. Also some of the liquid membranes require longer curing times for the concrete before they can be applied to insure proper bonding.
2. Hot applied Liquid Rubber Foundation Waterproofing:

It's a rubberized asphalt compound that forms a strong, flexible monolithic waterproofing membrane. Can be also applied on roofs.

Advantages: Adheres to virtually any structural surface. Ideal for rough uneven surfaces. Monolithic, free of seams, watertight, eliminates water migration and buildup of moisture. Offers strong protection because of the way it has to be applied.

Disadvantages: The surface has to be primed by primer first. The cost is higher because the product has to be applied in layers - basically you apply first coat of hot liquid rubberized asphalt, then you have to quickly firmly press on the fabric reinforced sheet into that hot layer, then apply a second coat of hot liquid waterproofing. Also, depending on the local building code you may have to apply 2 or 3 of these sheet layers. Because of this, the elasticity is low. And because it is Hot you have to be very careful - the best is to have it applied by a certified specialist.
3. Sheet membranes

The most common are self-adhering rubberized asphalt membranes composed of rubberized asphalt laminated to a waterproof polyethylene film.

Advantages: The biggest one is the consistent thickness because they are "pre-made" to a required standard. Mechanically strong, and resistant to hydrostatic pressure. Cover even the bigger holes or damaged areas.
They can be applied to concrete, metal, wood or masonry surfaces.

Disadvantages: Harder to apply because of their very high "stickiness", also the cost for in-place is higher. Application requires at least 2 people to put in on properly. Requires lots of additional work = additional cost. If there are irregularities on the surface you want to put a sheet on they have to be smoothed first with some coat to make the surface even. You also would need to learn of joint treatment, lap joints, corners, penetration, priming, patching etc. And once the piece is down you won't get it back up in reusable condition.
4. Cementitious Waterproofing

Is a cement based flexible waterproofing membrane? It can consist of Portland cement, sand, acrylic mixture, plasticizer and other active waterproofing chemicals to increase its durability and effectiveness.

Advantages: Very easy to use, just mix the powder with water according to manufacturer's recommendation, and apply with brush or trowel. Very accessible - available from suppliers of masonry products, or specialized dealers. Paintable. Also comes in a variety of colors. In most cases one coat is sufficient, although some areas may be needing a use of the reinforcing mesh. Low cost. Corrosion and weather resistant. Can be applied as a positive or negative side waterproofing.

Disadvantages: No flexibility - cement does not stretch, so as the structure settles down there are the possibilities of the future cracks. Before applying the surface has to be free from protrusions, gaping cracks, oils, paints, water repellents and any other foreign material that could act as a bond breaker. Holes must be filled with approved block filler.
5. Bentonite Waterproofing

is a Bentonite clay below-grade foundation waterproofing product which consists of sodium Bentonite clay sandwiched between 2 layers of woven and no-woven puncture resistant polypropylene fabric. Comes as a clay panels and sheets.

Advantages: Can absorb tremendous amount of water. And as it takes the water in the clay swells and pushes itself into cracks and voids where it stays permanently as a barrier against the water. It is flexible and resistant to most chemicals. Non-toxic, non-polluting. No fumes. Can be applied in cold weather.

Disadvantages: Because of the way the clay works the seal does not form until the foundation is backfilled and the water reaches the Bentonite material, which means you cannot confirm the integrity of the seal.

Damp proofing is the traditional method of protecting a foundation. Sealer is a damp proofing membrane that stops water vapor from passing through a foundation wall and into the basement area. It can be used on either poured concrete or masonry block construction and forms a smooth continuous barrier.

If such a basement is constructed of masonry block or concrete and not reinforced properly, such a damp proofing might not be the best product to protect you against water infiltration when cracks come about due to stress, movement or just plain fatigue from hydrostatic pressures, poor drainage and poor backfill.

When plans call for dry basement living space, a membrane or liquid can do the job if it's installed right

Sheet Membranes

The most commonly specified sheet materials are self-adhering rubberized asphalt membranes. These 60-mil-thick membranes are composed of rubberized asphalt laminated to a waterproof polyethylene film. The asphalt side is incredibly sticky but is covered by a release paper, which you remove during application.

The first time you work with this material, it'll drive you crazy because it sticks to everything. But you'll be surprised how fast you can move with it once you develop a rhythm. It takes two people, one on top to smooth it out and stick it down, the other on the bottom to pull off the paper. You'll have many details to learn about surface preparation, priming, patching, joint treatment, terminations, lap joints, penetrations, and corners.

Because they're so sticky, these membranes can be pretty unforgiving. Once a piece is down, you won't get it back up again at least not in reusable condition. However, the system allows easy repairs of holes, fish mouths, puckers, and wrinkles. You'll patch holes or damaged areas with a piece of membrane placed right over the first layer. With a fish-mouth or wrinkle, all you do is slit the raised area, press it down flat, and cover it with a patch.
A chief advantage of sheet membranes is their consistent thickness. Because they're manufactured to exacting tolerances, you can be sure of the 60-mil coverage. These membranes also have good elongation.

A higher in-place cost is one of the main disadvantages of sheets. The cost of the material itself is likely to be greater on a square-foot basis than the liquid membranes. Labor cost is also higher, because of the entire cutting, handling, reinforcing, and detailing you have to go through during installation.

Not everyone agrees, however, that sheet membranes lessen the quality-control risk. A rubberized liquid forms a continuous, seamless coating, whereas a sheet membrane results in many seams, with the potential for a poor seal. If you're applying these materials, make sure your lap joints are tight and properly detailed. Make correct use of the manufacturers mastic or other accessories. For example, one manufacturer requires you to apply a bead of mastic to every lap joint within 12 inches of a corner when using its product.

Where I Serve

Mike Jewett (JaxHomeSpy, LLC) — Mon, 20 Aug 2007 19:47:44 -0500

For anyone looking for a home inspection in Northeast Florida, look no further. I cover all of Duval County, St. Johns County, Clay County, Nassau County, Baker County, and further. If you can not find an inspector to provide services to you, please let me know. I am willing to travel, for a manageable fee, further than the counties listed to provide excellent service and be available when needed.