Honest Answers From an Inspector

Checklist - What to Look for BEFORE the Home Inspection

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Mon, 06 Apr 2009 22:06:02 -0500

Since many deals seem to be falling through before getting to closing, I thought I would offer a quick checklist of items that Realtors can use to "pre-inspect" the home during their showings or pre-bid walkthroughs.

This is not to suggest that Realtors suddenly start doing the job of inspectors (hey - I LIKE my job!) but it IS a way for you to begin to set your clients expectations for a home before the inspection...and even before submitting a bid!

The following is not a complete or exhaustive list, but does give you a pretty good starting point for potential problems or concerns that you can identify without any tools and with nearly no specialist's knowledge.

And if you want more information, you can check out the following blogs which lay it out in much greater detail:

Part 1 - Intro to Deal Killers

Part 2 - Get the Most out of the Disclosure

Part 3 - Easy Pre-Inspection

Part 4 - Mold and Asbestos and Lead, Oh My!

BASIC WALKTHROUGH CHECKLIST

	EXTERIOR
	Check gutters and downspouts - are they properly sloped and extend 4-6 feet away from the home? (basement moisture/mold)
	Look for signs of wear or erosion under gutters and downspouts (basement moisture/cracking)
	Does the ground slope consistently away from the home for the first 6 feet (basement moisture)
	Is there fogging or condensation between the window panes? (replace windows)
	Is the main electrical line (Service Entry Cable) into the house worn and old? (replace SEC)
	Does the roof look "uneven" or aged? (repair or replace roofing)
	Is the siding asbestos shingle? (possible encapsulation)
	If there is a brick exterior: do the mortar joints need repointing? (masonry repairs)
	INTERIOR
	Turn up the heater/AC while you are there - it should get notably warmer/cooler
	Look for signs of water staining (previous leaks) or fresh paint or drywall (recent repairs)
	Look at the outlets (especially upper floors): do they have 2 prongs? (ungrounded outlets, older wiring)
	Look at the outlets in the kitchen and baths: are the GFCI protected? (Install GFCI outlets)
	Check the name brand on the main breaker panel: Is it Federal Pacific, Sylvania, or Zinsco? (replace electrical panel)
	Look at the wiring: Is it knob and tube? (possible rewiring)
	Look at the main drain line in the basement: Is it cast iron, is there heavy rust or cracking on it? (replace drain line)
	Look at the heat distribution pipes or ducts (coming out of the heating unit): Is there any possible asbestos insulation? (encapsulate)
	Do you see mold? (identify source of moisture into the area)
	Are there large (3/8 inch - about two quarters thick) or horizontal cracks in the foundation? (foundation repair)
	Does the water heater have a tube from the TPR valve to within 6 inches of the floor? (Install TPR extension tube)
	Do the exhaust flues from the heater and water heater go consistently uphill and is there any soot or ash (also called carbon) under or around the flue pipes? (correct flue connections, or possible heater issues)
	DISCLOSURE ITEMS
	Was there ever a previous termite treatment? (evenly spaced drill holes around the interior basement floor will confirm this).
	How old is the roof? (20 years is the life expectancy for most older homes)
	How old is the heater? (25 years for forced air, 30 years for circulating boiler)
	How old is the AC? (15 years)
	How old is the water heater? (12 years)
	How old is the home? (possible lead paint)

Mold and Asbestos and Lead, Oh My!

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Sun, 05 Apr 2009 08:22:22 -0500

Heading Off Environmental Concerns

Other scary words that have been known to spook buyers include:

Mold
Asbestos
Lead

But each of these can be addressed with buyers long before an inspection if you recognize it for what it is and discuss the solutions with them. Quite frankly, some people are just panicked about these issues and no amount of education will get them past it - but at least you can present these issues before the bid is placed with a little observation and know-how.

MOLD:

If you see it, if you smell it - you have it.

Testing (which can be expensive) is only usually necessary if there is a dispute that the substance is mold, or if the buyers have specific concerns or allergies related to the type of mold.

Let them save their money and focus instead on how to correct the source of the moisture that created the mold. Remediation is just a fancy word for "guys dressed in space suits who charge you outrage sums of money to replace drywall and spray things down with bleach."

That's right. Their secret ingredient is most often Clorox. That'll be $2500, please.

And, often, they do all of that without figuring out and fixing where the water came from in the first place. Of course there are some companies who want you to buy their special mold cleaning product and will tell you that only their "special" solution does the job. If you believe this line of thinking, then you probably have several products advertised on infomercials in your home.

I have read that "experts" estimate that 80-90 percent of all basement moisture problems (including mold) are corrected by cleaning and fixing the gutters and drainage system on the outside of the home, and improving the grading. My experience over 6 years of inspections tells me that this figure is about right (if not a little low). So, look on the exterior of the home at the point where you see the mold on the interior, and most likely you will find a downspout that is missing or isn't discharging well, a gutter that is damaged or clogged, or a depression that is collecting water when it rains/snows.

Correct these problems first. Remove the moldy materials and install new, and if it can't be removed, bleach it. It's that simple.

And when you tell your clients about it they will think:

•1) You're a genius and,

•2) This mold thing isn't really all that scary, after all.

ASBESTOS:

Everyone knows that asbestos is bad for you. But most people don't know that it is only harmful if it becomes airborne and breathed in (we call that "friable"). It is perfectly acceptable to "encapsulate" or wrap up the asbestos inside another material so that it can't become airborne. This is commonly done with asbestos pipe or duct insulation or siding.

So, the key for you is identifying the asbestos and discussing encapsulation with your clients before the Deal Killer gets a chance to do it and sacre them away.

Look closely at the heat pipes or ducts when you are in the basement. If there is a white wrap around the pipes that looks powdery, like it is made of some kind of plaster material- that's probably asbestos pipe wrap. If there is a plastery, gauze-type of material applied at the heat pipe elbows - that is probably asbestos. And if there is a chalky white, paper-like covering wrapped around older ductwork - that is most likely asbestos. All of these can be encapsulated in newer insulation without further danger. Asbestos shingles can be painted or covered over by another type of siding.

DO NOT attempt to remove the asbestos in any situation. This is dangerous, and the disposal fees are outrageous (again with the guys in space suits who charge you outrageous sums of money...).

LEAD

If the home was built before 1970, chances are high that someone used at least one coat of lead based paint on the doors, windows, trim and possibly the walls.

While much of the concerns seem to focus on kids eating paint chips, the bigger concerns is airborne lead dust that is far more dangerous and can be created by something as simple as opening and closing the bedroom door.

Friction between a door (or window) and the frame creates lead dust that, when inhaled, is about 10 times as harmful as the ingested chips. So, scout out any original doors and windows and look for places where they stick or rub - these will have old paint showing through: lead paint.

The solution is remarkably simple: encapsulate it. First, try to eliminate the friction by repairing or altering the door/window (this may require planing or physical alteration to the door or frame tht can create dust and may have to be performed using EPA recommended procedures). Next, paint right over the lead paint with a specific kind of liquid coating (glorified paint) called an "encapsulant." These products (like ChildGuard) are specifically designed and rated for lead paint encapsulation, and are approved for use by the EPA. ChildGuard even has an additive that makes it bitter and less likely to be eaten by children.

As an added bonus, the cost of encapsulation is about 50 cent per square foot, as opposed to the $3-15/SF costs often quoted for lead paint abatement.

There are many items during an inspection that require a trained eye and professional evaluation. But there are just as many that can be done by the average layperson without a single tool. And a good Realtor with a careful eye can educate their clients while taking the bite out of the Deal Killer's barking.

If you have missed the other discussions of how to make your deal "Deal Killer" proof you can find them here:

Part 3 - Easy Pre-inspection

Part 2 - Get the Most out of the Disclosure

Part 1 - Save your Deal from the "Deal Killers"

Beating The Deal Killer Inspection (Part 3)

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 11:14:51 -0500

"Pre-inspecting" the Home

Beat the Deal Killer to the Punch!

Some items that come up on an inspection are safety or code related issues that - when described by a Deal Killer - can scare even a sensible buyer out of a deal. How a buyer is educated about these problems will determine whether they run away from the deal or not.

Below is a list of commonly cited safety issues and their approximate cost to repair:

Double tapped breaker $100-200 each
Missing GFCI outlet $40-50 each
Ungrounded outlet $50-100/outlet or $250-500/circuit
Missing TPR valve tube on water heater $10-50
Reverse polarity outlet $25-50 each

Each of these items could be described in such a way that you would be amazed that the home is still standing.

And each of these items is something you can either observe for yourself, or discuss with the buyers before the inspection to let them know that they are common problems to older homes and that while they should be corrected, the danger factor of each is minimal and the cost to cure is really pretty small. And none of them costs over $200 to fix!

So, instead of letting the inspector relate horror stories about the "fire waiting to happen" as a result of the double tapped breaker in the electrical panel, simply tell them before the cover of the panel is even removed: "In most homes, we usually find one or two double tapped breakers and other minor issues. They are common and easily correctible." In fact, many of the agents who use me regularly often help me prepare clients by betting me on the number of double taps we will find. This makes it a lighthearted moment that diffuses any fears about the breaker, while still recognizing that it is a defect to be addressed for a small cost.

Another example involves ungrounded outlets.

Too often I see inspection reports with something like this:

"Ungrounded outlets are a safety hazard and are in violation of the building and national wiring codes. They need be made safe immediately."

Alarmist nonsense.

Now, I regularly tell clients when I find ungrounded outlets because A) it's my job, and B) I wouldn't want their hard drive to get zapped because they were unaware that the outlet had no grounding protection. But the inherent danger can be WAY overstated, and they are - in fact - allowable by code in older homes. Plus, cheap fixes are available.

Instead, I tell the client about how to handle them in easy to understand terms so they aren't afraid they are going to be electrocuted every time they turn on a light, and so they can protect their sensitive and electronic equipment. I also tell them that ungrounded outlets are common and at least half the outlets in my own home are not grounded - its an old house and re-wiring isn't worth it to protect my $10 alarm clock.

I have plenty more but this blog is already too long, so I'll save it for the next installment. And in case you missed Parts 1 and 2 here they are:

http://activerain.com/blogsview/1004425/How-to-Beat-the-Deal-Killer-and-Save-Your-Deal-Part-1

http://activerain.com/blogsview/1007371/Beating-the-Deal-Killers-Part-2

Coming soon... a quicky, helpful pre-inspection checklist that you can do in 10 minutes without any tools!

Beating the Deal Killers (Part 2)

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 18:53:49 -0500

It takes an experienced inspector, skilled in communication to help educate a buyer about their home, taking care to address their concerns, and helping them understand that every ungrounded outlet is not a screaming death trap waiting to strike.

And, it takes a skilled and professional agent to help manage their client's expectations before the bid is accepted.

With that in mind, I am offering some strategies that help you:

Troubleshoot the home before the inspection, and even before the bid
Set buyer expectations, and pre-educate them
Understand the dreaded "Deal Killer" inspector and deal killing buyer and how to handle them

Troubleshooting the Home

Find the Clues on the Disclosure Statement

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure - or in this case, calming the fears of nervous buyers after a really tough inspection.

While you may not always be in a position to have repairs or corrections made before the inspection (especially if you are not the listing agent), you can troubleshoot the home and begin to set buyer (and seller) expectations as they walk through a home and place a bid.

Below is a list of the most expensive issues commonly cited on home inspections, and some VERY ballpark guesstimates as to replacement costs (based on experience):

Roof repair/replacement $5,000-15,000
Replace heating unit $2,500-5,000
Replace AC unit $1,500-4,000
Replace electric service entry cable $1,000-1,500
Replace leaking cast iron drain pipes $1,000-5,000
Replace knob and tube wiring $500-750/circuit $8,000-12,000/home
Replace windows $250-500 each
Replace water heater $400-800

Of course, there are many expensive potential repairs that are not listed here, but they occur less commonly and are not as easy to identify.

Notice that each of these items is something that is either clearly visible or is listed on most sellers disclosure form. This can help you determine the age and remaining life of each component (life spans listed below) and prepare your client, before you ever have an inspection:

Typical asphalt/fiberglass shingle roof 20-30 years
Gas forced air furnace 20-25 years
Gas/oil circulating boiler heater (the kind with radiators) 25-35 years
AC system (exterior condenser unit) 12-15 years
Service Entry cable (electric) 40-50 years
Cast Iron drain stack 50-75 years
Windows (double hung, thermally insulated) 12-15 years
Water heater 10-14 years

Simply by carefully reading the disclosure (if it is properly filled out) you can determine when a home is likely to need a new heater, roof, etc and can help adjust your client's expectations accordingly before they even bid on the home.

Next installment tomorrow....Do Your Own Pre-Inspection and Beat the Deal Killer to the Punch

How to Beat the “Deal Killer” and Save Your Deal (Part 1)

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Thu, 26 Mar 2009 21:08:11 -0500

Lately, it seems that more and more deals are dying on the vine before ever getting to closing. Partly this is based on unreasonable expectations of buyers who feel emboldened to ask for outrageous concessions due to the market conditions.

First time buyers, nervous buyers, or buyers who want lobster at McDonald's prices seem to be driving the recent market.

As a home inspector who is an educator - very much NOT an alarmist - I have been stunned at how a simple description of the condition of an item as "fair" with normal "wear and tear" can be manipulated by buyers into a demand that the seller have the HVAC system replaced.

While it is not always the inspector's fault - all too often it is. There are many in our business that derives some strange sense of satisfaction out of being known as a "deal killer." The real problem is that they equate that label with having done a good job. Nothing could be further from the truth.

It's easy to point out issues in an older home.

It's easy to scare nervous first time buyers.

And it's easy to write a report that covers the inspector's hindquarters while needlessly recommending "further evaluations" and replacement.

And, it takes a skilled and professional agent to help manage their client's expectations before the bid is accepted.

With that in mind, over the next few days/weeks I will be offering some strategies that help you:

Troubleshoot the home before the inspection, and even before the bid
Set buyer expectations, and pre-educate them
Understand the dreaded "Deal Killer" inspector and deal killing buyer and how to handle them

Stay tuned....or if you can't wait and want the whole thing all at once, email me and I'll forward it you.

Best wishes,

Sherlock Homes

Race for the Cure in Philly (Mother's Day) - REGISTER NOW!

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Fri, 25 Apr 2008 18:36:43 -0500

For three years now, I have been trying to fulfill one of my girlfriend's wishes and participate together in the Mother's Day Race for the Cure in Philadelphia (May 11).

Since we are both single parents, life often intervenes, especially since her kids like to take some time to do something for her for Mother's Day and we have not been able to make it to the race.

So, this year I took the bull by the horns and signed us up last month, and offered to pay for her kids to join us if they wanted (otherwise, we will do a dinner thing later). She was, and is, thrilled!!

Several people we know have been personally touched by breast cancer, and she has had far too many uncomfortable moments herself. Through her, this has become a cause I have become passionate about.

Because I know how busy we all get and how far away this seems, I thought I would send a WAKE UP CALL to anyone who is interested.

You can register online or, for you last minute folks, they do have walk up registration. You don't need to set a massive fundraising goal (you can simply pay the entry fee and be done with it if you don't like asking people for money).

It is a great cause, and looks like a great time! Hope to see you there!

More rare than the Hope Diamond - an HONEST Roofer!

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Thu, 24 Apr 2008 17:32:42 -0500

Today I will go out and play Powerball, Mega Millions, and hit the tables in AC all night because all the stars have aligned. It has finally happened.

I HAVE FOUND AN HONEST ROOFER!

It's true. I know what you are all saying: "There is no such thing. It's a myth like the Easter Bunny, Leprechauns, and Elvis" (He was real? Really?)

On Friday, I got a call from a client who felt he was being swindled by not one, but TWO roofing companies, and he wanted an independent inspection to find out just what the heck was going on with his 10 year old flat roof. Company #1 had installed the roof 10 years ago, and did a top coating last year (but of course won't warranty the work). The client believed he had a leak in the skylight and called Company #1 back to fix it.

They told him that his roof was just old and needed to be replaced. So they sold him a standard fiberglass roll roof with a flood coat of hot asphalt for the bargain price of $2600!!! (The actual retail price of this showcase is about $1200-1500).

So, when the client's skylight began to leak again one year later, he suspected he got ripped off. So he called Company #2. Company #2 looked at some alligatoring and a few bubbles on the roof and told him that Company #1 lied and didn't install a new roof, just a top coating. They wanted to sell him a new "rubberized" torch down covering for only $2000. OK - that's a fair price, a little much, but within reason.

The problem is that they were dead wrong. The covering was new. I could see this by lifting the drip edge slightly and looking at the area underneath where the pristine edges of new fiberglass roll covering was staring back at me. So, Company #2 wanted to perform $2000 worth of unnecessary work.

The skylight leak? Oh yeah, that was a result of condensation and no drip edge or other method to deal with it on the skylight fixture. Interior heat and exterior freezing temps were causing condensation to build up and drip down the skylight and onto his wall, staining it. A thermally insulated pane wouldn't do this, but this wasn't a high end skylight.

So, I called in Company #3, who was referred to me by a family member. Not believing that any honest roofers exist, I figured I would accompany him onto the roof to get an estimate on repairs and a licensed expert opinion for my client in case he needs it in what I suspect will be some pending litigation.

I gave him nearly no information except that there was a dispute over the age of the roof and that there were some issued to be resolved. I secretly figured he might also try to sell the client a $2000 roof!

Then it happened. The clouds parted...sun shone down and I swore I heard birds (not just the usual pigeons) and music (not the usual stuff being blasted from cars). The Honest Roofer turned to me and said:

"This is a new roof. You have some alligatoring which means it may have been poured under less than ideal weather conditions or that the asphalt was too hot when it was poured, but it is a new roof. And the bubbling I can take care of right now - give me a few minutes."

You could have knocked me over with a feather. He wouldn't take any money, but the overjoyed client did tip him.

And suddenly, everything I thought I knew was being challenged. So, if I seem to be trying new things or re-evaluating old ideas recently, it's because I have met The Honest Roofer and I am a different man because of it.

Not one to keep a good thing to myself (but not one to hawk soneone's services in an inappropriate way) if you want the name and number of The Honest Roofer (sorry he is honest but not so web savvy, no website) please email me and I will be happy to pass it along to you (in the Philly, Montco, Bucks areas of PA).

I will now continue looking for the Holy Grail, Camelot, Santa's Workshop, Neverland......

Email from a New Construction Buyer - Why Realtors and Inspectors are SOOOOO Important

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Sat, 19 Apr 2008 18:54:31 -0500

I got this email from someone last night. I am not able to help them due to time constraints but was able to offer some heplful advice.

As you will read, yet another builder got someone to absolve them of responsibility for mold (unbelievable!) This is fairly typical of some builders and often puts buyers in a bind. Unfortunately, too many buyers (like this one) think that there "can't possibly" be mold or major problems in a new construction home.

Can there?.....

My husband and I are in the process of purchasing a new home in XXXXX County. We are meeting with the construction manager this Monday for our pre-drywall inspection. We decided to take a quick walk through this evening by ourselves after hours ( yes, we know we were not supposed to do this). Anyhow, it looks as though the OSB has mold on it (black spots all over) and quite a few of the framing studs are of poor quality and have black areas on them as well. Does this sound like mold to you? I did take some photos and can e-mail them to you if you'd like. Unfortunately, we signed a statement in our agreement of sale that stated that our builder was not responsible for any mold and would take no corrective action if found. We signed it but didn't even dream that moldy framing materials would be an issue. What would you suggest we do? The builder has $20,000 of our money in the form of a deposit already. Obviously, we need a speedy reply. Any information that you could give me would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very much in advance.

Fortunately we were able to give this buyer some key advice BEFORE she got railroaded by "policy" and double talk. Don't be an uneducated victim! Get an inspection and let a qualified Realtor review your contract BEFORE you sign!

For FREE consulations or answers to your questions about NEW construction, do not hesitate to call!

Sherlock Homes

Why ALL Condo buyers should read the Association meeting minutes BEFORE buying

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Mon, 07 Apr 2008 11:12:08 -0500

I know it goes beyond the scope of a traditional home inspection, but I like to include some value added services for my clients. I have mentioned before about little things I do like Appliance Recall Research, but a news story on the Local Fox station last night reinforced for me the importance of urging condo buyers to obtain and READ the meeting minutes from as many recent meetings of the Condo Association as they have access to.

The video is attached (gross out alert - it deals with raw sewage). In short, the condo owners pay over $160 per month to the Association who has allowed raw sewage backups to exist for several months. While a good inspector may likely uncover this issue during a typical inspection, such concerns that may be missed often can be found in the meeting minutes.

Among other important things, previous clients have used these reports to uncover concerns about:

Problem Neighbors
Unresponsive Maintenance Staff
"Tabled" Issues (for things like parking lot resurfacing, often linked to large assessments)
Common Complaints of Residents (windows, roofing, etc)

Many of these issues could not possibly be found during even the most diligent inspection, but all of them can significantly impact the pocketbook or quality of life (or both!) of the condo buyer-to-be.

I have no idea how many of my condo clients follow this advice, but I do know of at least 6 that have and uncovered some concerns that they were VERY glad they knew about before they bought.

I should also mention that many Associations get very territorial about these documents and that can make obtaining them difficult to impossible. But where the info is available, it is in everyone's best interest to read it (as the people in the Fox News story will surely tell you!)

When is the best time to have a New Construction Home Inspected?

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Tue, 18 Mar 2008 07:47:05 -0500

After my last blog I have had a LOT of interesting side conversations with Realtors about new construction inspections, building codes, and other such entertaining topics.

The one thing that seemed to be new to many Realtors was that new construction inspections are WAY MORE than just an inspection of the house a few days before closing. So, I thought I would expand the idea a little and add a few blogs detailing just what a new construction inspection is all about.

So, when is the right time to have your New Construction Home Inspected? Here is a little idea of what an IDEAL new construction inspection may involve and how it can help a buyer:

Conduct Your Inspection in Stages - It's NEVER too early to inspect!

A useful new construction inspection can begin with the pouring of the foundation. My ideal new construction inspection happens in 3 or 4 stages.

Foundation Inspection (after the foundation has been poured)

The Foundation Inspection checks for use of proper reinforcing materials, footers, bolts, damp proofing, and other items to ensure proper installation (since this is the base for the entire home).

Pre-Drywall Inspection (after all systems are roughed-in, but before the drywall and insulation goes up).

Is your home built with 2x6 or 2x4 (or finger-jointed 2x4)?
Is there mold and mildew on studs and framing?
Did your builder go the extra mile, or do the bare minimum?

This is the stage where good builders really separate themselves from the lesser ones.

The Pre-Drywall Inspection looks for use of bad lumber (bowed, cracked); structural concerns in the wall and floor structures; cracks in slab or concrete walls; installation of fire stop; proper location of all lights, switches, outlets, cable, phone, and custom features (as per buyer plans); mold; flashing on windows and doors; proper siding installation; roofing; and general code compliance.

This is the MOST useful inspection and often where we catch many critical details that get concealed by drywall.

"Final" Inspection (ideally, at least 2-3 days prior to closing)

The Pre-Settlement Inspection is a full home inspection (as most people are familiar with them) with careful attention to cosmetic detail.

This inspection ideally occurs at least 2 days prior to settlement or final walkthrough to allow the builder ample time to address concerns prior to closing (we will also attend the pre-closing walkthrough and verify items have been completed, if desired). However, many builders are still touching up items and completing things right up until closing, so scheduling in advance of final walkthrough is not always possible.

The attention to detail is an 11 on a scale of 1-10 for this inspection, calling out scratches on cabinet doors, chips in countertops, tiles, and dings in doors, trim, and drywall. We use a roll of blue painters tape to identify any cosmetic concerns (paint touch up, ding, etc) for paint crews to address prior to settlement. We also test all appliances, inspect major features and systems, and perform a complete inspection just as we would on any other home inspection.

Follow-up Inspection (performed at or immediately before final buyer walkthrough)

This inspection is simply to check that each items on the punch list has been corrected.

Every inspector is different, but I price each service separately and also offer a package discount. I have also found that offering to get the builder a punch list (same day) and the buyer a punch list and detailed report (all same day) makes the process go more smoothly and get concerns addressed more quickly for all involved.

These inspections are all useful, with the pre-drywall stage being the most overlooked, but perhaps the most advantageous inspection for our clients. The timing (the stage of construction when the client calls me) usually dictates how much we are able to accomplish.

It's important to remember that while most homes will have to pass a code inspection, that that in many areas code inspectors are overwhelmed with work and may miss items. It should also be considered that building codes are a basic minimum of what is safe and acceptable - THEY ARE NOT THE ULTIMATE MEASURE OF SAFETY!

Getting your own inspection (in stages!) is the BEST way to protect yourself.

But it's Brand New! Why do I need it inspected?

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 22:41:49 -0500

I think the general consensus seems to be that all buyers should have a full home inspection.

But lately, I have heard that many builders (and even some agents - gasp!) have suggested to their clients that the Builder's Warranty is good enough and an inspection is overkill (or a waste of money).

Now, I will grant you that I am a bit biased, BUT.... There are SOOOOO many reasons why an inspection is critical, even for new construction.

All Builders are not Created Equal - Some use better materials and methods than others. Here, Pulte likes to use finger jointed lumber comprised of scrap lumber fitted and pressed together to make studs. They also are the only local builder I know of that frames any walls with studs spaced further than 16 inches on center (this is allowed in certain walls). They say they are being envornmentally conscious and saving lumber. I find that most clients would prefer they start saving lumber with the house AFTER theirs.
Builder's Warranties are NOT created equal - Some warranties I have reviewed for clients cover so little as to be laughable. One small builder did not even cover cosmetic issues like nail pops. Another builder refused to cover drainage concerns until the buyer's finished basement had 2 feet of water in it and lawyers became involved.
Many warranties specifically EXCLUDE mold or radon - Read the Warranties carefully. Mold found on studs in a pre-drywall inspection (we find a lot of this) can be easily remedied and is typically remedied by builders once it is pointed out. But once it becomes enclosed behind drywall, it can continue to grow unchecked and the warranty may not cover it. Many builders also refuse any responsibility for radon mitigation, while some provide free system installation or a credit (up to $500) for system installation. (Incidenetally, builders who install a "radon system" that consists of just a PVC pipe that penerates neither the slab nor the roof, are not doing you any favors. Most mitigation companies will not use these pipes as they do not want to take on the liability of penetrating your roof.)
What you don't know CAN hurt you - We have found fire hazards, structural faults, electical hazards, improperly connected systems, and safety violations even after local code inspections had "passed" the home. While some of these were relatively small concerns and easily remedied, some were potentially dangerous problems.

New construction inspections require an inspector who is experienced in construction methods and materials, and should be perofrmed in several stages (I like to do a foundation inspection, a pre-drywall inspection, a pre-closing inspection, and a follow-up inspection.) Most people only think to get a pre-closing inspection, but there is a lot to be gained from having a sesoned pro review your foundation, structure, framing, and rough ins. In fact, I think the pre-drywall inspection is the most beneficial stage to my clients.

But that's another blog for another day (What Makes a Good New construction Inspection).....

A Septic Cheat Sheet for your clients

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:40:58 -0500

Let's face it - NO ONE (not even inspectors) like talking about, looking at or even thinking of septic systems (let alone inspecting them!)

With that in mind, it is one feature that is unfamiliar to many buyers and there are lots of good questions...but unless you are pretty well versed in taking care of a septic system, you may be short on answers.

Here is a cheat sheet that I compiled from a variety of sources that I have been giving clients. It is an amalogmation of information collected from pros I have encountered and various websites that many clients (and Realtors) have found useful.

I hope you find it useful as well!

How to Care for Your Septic Tank and Septic System

Taking care of your septic system isn't difficult you just need to follow a few basic guidelines. A typical tank is about 1000 gallons, although larger homes with more bathrooms can have larger or multiple tanks. THEY DO NEED TO BE PUMPED OUT PERIODICALLY!!! (About every 5 years on average).

Use less water to reduce the load on the system

The septic field can only handle so much water - repair any leaky faucets or toilets ASAP (the small leak can add up to a lot of water!)
Use low flow toilets, fixtures, and showerheads to help lower water use.
Use only as much water as needed for laundry (don't keep the washer setting at large for a small load).
Wait until the dishwasher is full to run it.

Divert water away from the septic field

A soggy drainfield won't absorb and neutralize liquid waste. Plan landscaping, gutters, and foundation drains so that water is diverted away from the septic drainfield.

Be careful not to flush or drain garbage and solid waste

It sounds like common sense, but disposable diapers, sanitary napkins, tampons, paper towels, facial tissues, coffee grounds, or cigarette butts and filters will quickly clog your system.

Use a new garbage disposal designed for septic use, and minimize solid waste

A garbage disposal can double the amount of solids added to a septic tank.
Choose a "septic safe" disposal designed specifically for this use (or do without one).

Avoid harsh cleaners and chemicals

Harsh cleaners and chemicals can kill beneficial bacteria in the septic tank, so solids won't break down as well.
Varnish, paint thinners, motor oils, gasoline and other harsh chemicals can ruin your system and are a hazard to groundwater. (a REAL problem if you have a well)

Do not pour grease down the drain

Grease can clog the septic field, making it impossible for soil to absorb liquids. If that happens you'll need a new drainfield.

Plant grass on the septic field to prevent erosion

Keep trees and vegetaion under control and way from the septic system as much as possible.

Hope these tips help!

New deck fasteners to watch out for

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 22:44:50 -0500

Recently, I have seen builders using a product called "LedgerLok" fasteners to secure decks at the ledger board.

Where before the common practice was to use 1/2 inch lag bolts, now it is not all that unusual to see these screws in place.

Since I was ingorant about their installation, I called the manufacturer and talked to one of their techs to find out exactly how they should be installed to fulfill the manufacturer's claim that they are "Stronger than 1/2 inch lag bolts."

We did a rough approximation of a live load calculation and erred on the side of caution and safety (he must have known I'm a safety nut). Turns out that just a few of these fasteners do quite a job!

It takes 2 fasteners per joist bay (the area between each set of joists) no further than 6 inches apart, and preferably with one high and one lower (called a "one-up, one-down" pattern). They are very specfic to say that the fasteners must be at least 2 inches (or more) from the edges of the board, and that NO hot tubs, heavy planters, etc are accounted for in this calculation.

One issue you may encounter: seems their advertising is a bit misleading. Their claim to be stronger than the lag bolts leads some builders to believe that they can install just one faster per joist bay. this is WAY too few to provide adequate support.

Thought I'd share since these seem to be catching on and the info may be able to save some headaches!

Free service to keep your loved ones (and clients!) safe

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 22:19:50 -0500

I have always been kind of a nut about safety. It's nerdy, I know, but it's just one of those things I can't help.

As a result, one of the services I have been including for my clients has been to run their appliances through the Consumer Product Safety Commission database to see if they were the subject of recalls.

It takes me about 15 minutes, and I offer it for free as a part of my inspection service.

Maybe it sounds basic or insignificant at first blush - but I have found 10 recalled appliances (ovens, ranges, dishwashers) and those clients were VERY appreciative.

The idea is that no one (not even me until a couple of years ago) ever checks the CPSC database to see if their appliances are ok. And with GE recalling 2.5 million dishwashers, and Maytag recalling 2.3 million more dishwashers, and every child toy under the sun being painted with lead paint - all in the LAST YEAR ALONE - I figured maybe it was time to start doing this for people.

After all, I can't expect everyone to be a CPSC nerd like me, but when I see a Crown boiler that may have been recalled for carbon monoxide poisoning hazard, I am sure that they like having the info!

Now, maybe you are sitting there wondering if your GE dishwasher is going to short out and catch fire (it might). Or maybe you are thinking "Do I have a dangerous heater?" (probably not, most recalls are for kitchen appliances). Or maybe even you are saying to yourself: "What a great idea, I have to use this guy for my inspections" (you can)!

Or maybe, just maybe, you will log on just to play around and check your own appliances and sign up for the email alerts. And then email your friends, relatives and clients and see if they are curious.

It isn't hard to do: Just go to http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prerel.html and you can search by appliance type (oven, for example), or brand (GE), or even by hazard type.

The recall notices are very descriptive and all include a photo of the recalled item and information on where to read the serial number to identify your model and serial number. (If I knew how to insert a screen shot of one, I would attach it here).

This is a great thoughtful little tidbit to pass along to expecting mothers or clients with small children, since there is an email alert for toys and children's products.

I hope you find this useful, helpful, and - who knows - maybe even a little bit interesting! (I'll settle for 2 out of 3).

Apologies to all

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Thu, 17 Jan 2008 19:57:18 -0600

If you are wondering why my posts seem to have been revived, it's because I have been the victim of a personal attack - a person in "leadership" of my former inspection association with a personal animus against me.

He has added the same post (11 of the same message in under 30 minutes) to all my blogs, effectively reviving them (sorry for that) alleging some pretty serious things (which are largely incorrect) along with some misunderstandings that have beeen resolved to the satisfaction of all. I have reported them as spam, but I can't do anything about the revived posts (again, sorry, I'm not trying to hog the spotlight!)

I would be happy to discuss the facts with anyone who asks, as I am a hard-working and honest person and I will defend myself against such slander.

Sadly, people like this in leadership positions can cast a long shadow over the many good members who they are supposed to represent. He is one of the reasons I elected not to renew my membership in that association, but apparantly he simply cannot get past the parting of our ways.

Thanks, and sorry for the problems!

Since you asked....my MeMe

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Thu, 17 Jan 2008 07:34:18 -0600

I have been tagged by Andrew to write my first Me-Me (OK, I was tagged about a month ago, but I'm finally getting back to blogging just now!) To borrow from Jason Sardi, I have added a soundtrack that will put you in the right frame of mind for reading this.

I am a beach bum at heart, trapped in frigid temperatures of Philadelphia (at least for now) for reasons I don't understand and certainly can't explain. Or, in the words of my patron saint, Jimmy Buffett, "I've got a Caribbean soul I can barely control...." One day, I will rule my empire wirelessly from a remote tropical location, but until I win the Powerball, Philly it is.

(Secretly, I LOVE Philly, by the way - the history, bars, restaurants, and cool little places to go and things to do that so many Philadelphian's don't even know exist . I just wish it was warmer)

I've lived in Philadelphia, York PA (not a big fan), the coastline of Connecticut (loved it), and Washington DC.

I've been a waiter, bartender, Legislative Aide to a US Congressman, Campaign Manager for political races at every level of government, a fundraiser for Immaculata College, Executive Director of a successful non-profit organization for senior citizens, a contractor, and a Home Inspector. When I grow up, I still want to be a professional baseball player.

Oh, and I saved the Space Station. Not in the James Bond/Austin Powers kind of way, but I saved it nonetheless.

In 1993, as I mentioned earlier, I was an intern on Capitol Hill. The International Space Station was coming up for a critical budget vote in the House (an amendment specifically to kill funding), and votes were evenly split. The sentiment at the time was towards budget cutting and deficit reduction and the space station seemed an unnecessary expenditure to many Congressmen who wanted to show their constituents that they were budget cutters.

My boss was undecided. None of the parts were manufactured in our district, and there was no other burning need to vote for it, so a vote against may be viewed as getting tough on spending. He walked into the back room of the legislative office 5 minutes before the vote to discuss it with the staff (yes, they really do that). After weighing the pros and cons, he turned to me and asked: "You're a science guy (physics major) - what do you think?"

Stunned, all I could come up with was something like, "Well, it isn't so much the advances that we plan to get from space exploration, as those that are developed along the way that become the most notable results. Freeze drying, microprocessors, metal alloys...." He cut me off. "Good point. We're for technology and progress." He voted for the space station, and it survived by a single vote in the House that day.

So, that's me: your typical baseball loving, beach bum, ex-politico home inspector. This is more than I have probably talked about myself in 10 years combined, but it has brought back many great memories and was stories, so thanks, Andrew!

Top 5 Holiday Accidents/Disasters

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Wed, 05 Dec 2007 17:53:47 -0600

As a Home Inspector, I admit I am a bit more uptight about home safety than most people.

No, my kids don't wear crash helmets in the bathtub, and I don't have bumpers on all sharp edges or anything. But I do try to take care to make my home (and those I inspect) a little safer in a common sense, everyday-use kind of way.

With the holidays coming, most people's thoughts turn to family, gifts, decorating, and good times. Ok, mine do, too. But all the while, lurking right below the surface, is the nagging awareness that there are so many safety concerns that I wish people thought a little about.

So, without being a Grinch or telling you not to decorate, here are the Top 5 Most Common Holiday Safety Tragedies:

1. Cooking

Yeah, this surprised me, too. Apparently, most of the 125,000+ December fires are cooking related (at least according the the USFA). In addition, some alarming lack of food handling knowledge might contribute to illness.

For example:

1 in 4 of us admit to thawing the turkey on the counter (it should be thawed in the fridge or upside down in cold water)
4 in 5 of us let hot foods cool before putting them in the fridge (this is not necessary and can let bacteria grow)
3 in 5 people travel over an hour with a holiday dish to share (2 hours is the limit on time before your treat becomes a mini-bacteria fest)

2. Candles

The CPSC estimates there are over 14,000 candle-related fires every year, leading to about 170 deaths

3. Falls/Shocks/ Decorating "mishaps"

About 10,000 people each year go to the hospital for an injury related to decorating. Of these:

62% are age 20-49
43% fall off ladders
Men are 40% more likely to be injured than women

4. Christmas Tree Fires

The CPSC estimates that there are about 200 Christmas tree related fires every year (not as many as I would have guessed, but more than there should be) leading to about 10 deaths.

5. Product Safety

This last one is just my own observation, no science or government agency to back it up. But, I would like to remind everyone that the CPSC has good information on product recalls, toy safety, and other important reminders, notices, and alerts. (Actually I like this info so much, I am adding free CPSC appliance research to my home inspection reports.)

Yeah, I know, I have issues. But maybe someone will be safer for it this year, and that makes it all ok.

Happy Holidays (from your Safety Grinch)!

Sherlock Homes Inspections

www.SherlockHI.com

Look Out! Heating Oil over $3 per gallon!

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Mon, 03 Dec 2007 14:49:01 -0600

As expected (see "Weathering Winter Heating Costs") oil prices have broken the $3/gallon threshold.

That is a 60 - 80 cent increase over the end of last winter, meaning that for a 150 gallon delivery (the minimum for most local companies) homeowners can expect to pay $90 - 120 more per delivery than they did at the end of last winter!

And it is probable that they will continue to rise as the winter wears on.

In addition to the tips I offered in my Money Saving Winter Tips, for those of you who have oil furnaces (or those of you who have clients who have oil furnaces) in the Bucks, Montgomery, Lehigh, Northampton county areas, I thought I would let you know about the best little oil delivery company I have found: Ranson Fuel. (I have absolutely NO relationship to this company whatsoever other than finding them to be great and wanting to share the tip).

First, and most importantly, they are THE cheapest company around (I called plenty of places, and Ranson is anywhere from 5 to 35 cents a gallon cheaper than any of the other companies I called.) Today's price was $2.889, for example.

Next, they post their prices on-line (unheard of for oil delivery companies).

Third, their minimum delivery is only 115 gallons (a MAJOR bonus when you need oil but have the pressure of holiday bills).

Finally, they actually understand customer service and are VERY helpful (also unheard of for oil delivery companies.)

This company is a true local gem. The only drawback I have found is that they do not schedule recurring deliveries, you have to call them to schedule your own periodically, but to save a bundle each winter, it is worth it!

If you (or your clients) do call, please let them know that you heard about them through Joe of Sherlock Homes Inspections - I like to let local companies know that others are passing the word about them when they are deserving of it.

Finally, a few facts/tips about heating oil:

Heating oil is very much similar to diesel fuel or kerosene (heating oil is a lower grade or quality). So, if you are running low on oil, you can get by with 5 gallons of diesel until the delivery comes through.
Pre-purchase plans (where you buy oil ahead of time in certain quantities) generally work out in your favor financially speaking (oil almost never has a sustained price dip in the winter).
If you run out of oil, priming the system is not difficult. All you will need channel lock pliers and an empty coffee can (or plastic cup) and the knowledge of which nut to loosen until oil flow is established. If you are unsure, have the delivery tech do it once (they may charge you) you will never forget again.

Hope you found this useful! Best wishes,

Joe Michalski

Sherlock Homes Inspections

www.SherlockHI.com

I know the published stats - what is your experience with the market recently?

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Thu, 29 Nov 2007 14:01:44 -0600

Everyone has seen the statistics about the "softness" in the market. If you missed it somehow, USA Today has another article today which shows sale prices at March 2005 levels, and shows 13 month trends which show a steady decline in sales, and illustrate that sales have dropped 250,000 (nationally) for October 2007, compared to October 2006.

As a home inspector, my business is at least partially dependant on these market trends. I do my best to be excellent so that I am insulated from such cycles, but even with good marketing and attention to detail, the market still makes a noticeable impact.

So, it is no surprise that my September and October numbers were not stellar. When sales drop, my phone rings less often.

But November has been super busy. Realtors who I thought had left the business (it had been so long since I had worked with them) are calling for inspections. I have to think that this reflects an uptick in the market that is not reflected yet in the doom and gloom stats that are the basis for the media attention.

I am very curious to learn the view from the ground in other areas of the country, as well as around our own region. Are there more buyers? Bargain hunters? Or just the normal ebb and flow of traffic?

I suspect (and my previous history indicates) that December and January will be slightly slower than November, but compared to September and October, that has me pretty excited.

So - what is the view from around the globe?

Sherlock Homes Inspections

www.SherlockHI.com

For those doing secret santas - a tip!

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Thu, 29 Nov 2007 13:38:22 -0600

For those who are doing "polyannas" or "secret Santas" my exteneded family is using a site that my mom found (she's an e-savvy older lady) called Elfster (www.Elfster.com) which has made the entire process SOOOOO much easier.

You log on, enter the participants and their email addresses, date to choose who "gets" whom, and a dollar limit. Then each person confirms and sets up their own wishlist for all to view. Exclusions can be set so that husbands can't get wives, and the like.

Each person gets an email notification of who they have, and everytime a wishlist is updated, email allerts are sent out to the appropriate secret Santa.

There is a posting feature which allows for some fun comments, and anonymous questions can be posted to each person (like "what is your shoe size?") so no one has to give away who they have.

My own experience is that it has been totally fun and the best gift exchange we have ever done!!!

I know this ship may have sailed fo rmany, but in teh event that you are still planning or getting ready to draw - check it out (or save it for next year).

Good luck and happy holidays!

Sherlock Homes Inspecitons

www.SherlockHI.com

Why You Should Write Your Goals Down

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Tue, 27 Nov 2007 22:56:19 -0600

Before long, we will all be making our resolutions (for me, these are also called "Those Pledges I Make To Be a Better Me That I forget About By February").

Sure, lots of us would like to lose weight, or be more successful, or reach other personal goals - but it isn't as easy as just saying you want to do it.

Well, actually, it IS almost that easy!

It turns out that one key element in helping you reach these goals is something so simple, we take it for granted: WRITE THEM DOWN!

Yep. That's it - my big secret to success.

Writing things down makes you visualize your goal. You have to put some real thought into it, and chances are that as you do, you will visualize your own success. This is a well known motivational technique.

Writing goals also makes them more concrete. They are now real, and physical, and can't be fudged or conveniently forgotten ("Did I say I wanted to lose 30 pounds, I could swear it was only 15!"). It gets us to commit to the goals in at least a small way, and also provides us with motivation and inspiration to get us back on track when we waiver.

Writing your goals is a physical act to put the process in motion. Somebody much wiser than me said: "The longest journey starts with a single step." Writing the goals down is a small, but important first step.

There are some ‘rules' to writing these goals though:

Be explicit and detailed. Don't just write a general goal like "do more networking," but instead try "attend at least one networking event each month." The concrete number and detail helps you with the visualization and gives you a benchmark to shoot for (so you can't fudge it).
Be positive. You must remain positive to achieve a goal, so writing a negative goal or using a negative within your wording inherently undercuts your efforts. To some extent, you can only achieve what you believe you can achieve - positive attitudes beget success.
Write in the present tense. If you word something in the future, like "Next month I will lose 10 pounds," subconsciously you are thinking about it as a remote, far off possibility. Instead, writing "I am losing 10 pounds this month" makes it an active, current, and immediate thing to focus on.

It sounds so simple, yet less than 5% of us actually take the time to write our goals down. But every year there are millions of people like me who make the same tired resolutions and wonder why they never achieve them.

Not this year. Goal #1: I am writing my goals out tonight.

Best Wishes,

Joe Michalski

Sherlock Homes Inspections

http://www.sherlockhi.com/

Thanksgiving Myths

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Tue, 20 Nov 2007 23:14:14 -0600

If your house is anything like mine, you are already at DEFCON 2, as all efforts are redirected to supplying the picture-perfect Thanksgiving dinner for friends and family.

In an effort to inject some sanity (and hopefully entertainment) into the preparation, I thought it might help to remind ourselves that Thanksgiving (or at least the first Thanksgiving) isn't exactly what we thought it was.

Myth #1:

The pilgrims had a bountiful feast with turkey, cranberries, breads, etc....

Actually, all we know for sure that they ate was deer and "wild fowl." It is likely that they had dried corn and fruit as well. And that they did not use forks in 1621, they ate with their hands (forks didn't catch on in Great Britain until the 18^th century.)

The rest of the traditional meal is a creation of the Victorians, who made Thanksgiving a national holiday in 1863.

Myth #2

The pilgrims and Indians did not all sit down at a table together and break bread, and pass the sweet potatoes.

It is far more likely that food was set out on every available surface and was eaten when people were hungry (over 3 days) without great ceremony.

Myth #3

The pilgrims wore black and white clothing with pointed hats, and buckled shoes.

While they did wear black on Sunday, they wore all other colors at all other times, and the buckled shoe was a fabrication added by 19^th century American artists depicting the event.

Myth #4

The first Thanksgiving was a celebration of a great harvest.

Actually, the 1621 harvest was pretty meager. The peas, barley and wheat they had brought with them had failed and only the success of the corn crops saved their harvest. In fact, the previous winter had wiped out nearly half of their population.

Myth #5

There was plenty of food for all

This should comfort all you Thanksgiving day hosts: The guests actually brought almost all the food. But, unprepared to feed so many, Wampanoag chief Massasoit sent men back for more supplies.

So, you see - even the picture perfect Thanksgiving that we all envision wasn't really all that perfect. Relax, enjoy the friends, family, and football - and try not to give in to the tryptophan.

Joe Michalski

Sherlock Homes Inspections

More Fun Facts:

The first Thanksgiving feast lasted 3 days!
Many Americans consume as much as 4500 calories on Thanksgiving
The Pilgrims probably didn't land on Plymouth Rock. (The Plymouth Rock legend rests entirely on the dubious testimony of Thomas Faunce, a ninety-five year old man, who told the story more than a century after the Mayflower landed.)

Vampire Appliances and Saving Energy (and Money)

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Sun, 18 Nov 2007 21:59:29 -0600

Since I was little, I remember my dad running around behind us, turning off lights grumbling, "Does someone own stock in the Electric Company?!" (I'll leave the discussion of how the concept of owning stock is lost on 6 year olds for another time).

I forgot all about that until I began using a home office for my inspection business (about 4 years ago). Somehow, I overlooked the fact that being home all day, running appliances, using lights, etc, would increase my bills.

Now, I am that guy. Holiday lights aside (my house is only slightly less gaudy than Chevy Chase's in "Christmas Vacation"), I am now the one who walks through the house turning off the TV no one is watching, unplugging the coffee pot, and other crazy idiosyncrasies that suddenly manifested themselves once my home office started impacting my bills.

So, for those of you looking to save money or energy (or both!) here are a few thoughts that make the biggest difference:

1. Replace incandescent light bulbs with lower wattage Compact Fluorescent (CFL) bulbs. They use 50-75% less electricity and last 10 times longer. These are not the humming, eerie fluorescent lights you remember from your youth - they were actually preferred over incandescent light in a blind study. The savings can be as much as $60 per year. Don't quite get it? Here it is in plain English (amusing and informative, I promise!).

2. Beware "Vampire Appliances!" - put your energy sucking devices on power strips that can be conveniently turned off when not in use. In the average home, there are 20 ‘vampire appliances, and up to 40% of the electricity used to power home electronics is consumed while the products are turned off. Yes, they use power even when off! One example: a computer screen on "standby power" uses on $3/year if the computer is shut off at night, but if the computer is on "sleep" (left on) most nights, that figure jumps to $43. Cable boxes, Satellite receivers and DVDs and VCRs are notorious energy suckers. It is estimated that the average household has 20 of these items, and the associated energy drain costs about $200 per year.

3. Buy ENERGY STAR rated appliances. These appliances use approximately 30% less energy than their regular counterparts. The refrigerator is the big energy hog - cleaning the coils can improve efficiency and reduce energy use, but in general, this is the one appliance where energy efficiency makes a BIG difference.

For those who are visual people, here is where your energy dollars go:

Finally, for those of you that like to toy around with the idea of whether you should upgrade a furnace, or add insulation and wonder how much it would help, here is a neat interactive tool to conduct your own "hypothetical" Energy Audit.

Now if can just get my daughter to turn off the TV when she leaves the room......

Joe Michalski

Sherlock Homes Inspections

Putting my Money Where My Mouth (and Heart) Is

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:19:16 -0600

It has been a long time coming, but I am proud to announce that as of January 2008, a new non-profit organization focused on child and household safety in Southeastern PA, will open its doors.

The PA Home Safety Council has been a pet project of mine since I opened my doors as a home inspector 4 years ago. Our mission is to provide free and low-cost services designed to improve safety in the home for those who need it most: single parents, low income families, and senior citizens.

As an inspector, I am all too familiar with conditions in homes that are dangerous - even lethal! - but often go unnoticed or unaddressed. It hurts me to my core to hear the stories that come out each year about babies, children, and the elderly who suffer preventable deaths because someone lacked the knowledge or resources to make a small improvement that would keep them safe.

So, I decided to do something about it.

I will be using my tools, talent and time (plus skills I acquired as a former Executive Director of a non-profit) to bring advice and help to people who want it. Of course, I will still be running my inspection business - this is just something that I want to do to help out in any way I can.

Paperwork is being filed, and the formal structure and registrations are being obtained. I am donating the start up funding(for supplies and safety equipment) and providing free inspections and consultations through my company Sherlock Homes Inspections. By January we will have formed a Strategic Plan for the next 3 years.

WHAT WE WILL DO:

My goals are to be performing:

Free childproofing inspections for single and low-income parents
Offering free childproofing equipment and kits (cabinet locks, lead paint swabs, outlet covers, door knob covers, carbon monoxide detectors, etc) for single and low-income parents
Free home safety checks for seniors and low income families including carbon monoxide testing, lead paint swab testing, fire safety checks, and identification of potential electrical or fire hazards.
Freesmoke alarms with installation and fire safety inspections for seniors and low income families
FREE 911-only cell phones (used) donated for anyone who needs one (good for seniors or low income families for emergency only use)

Plans will expand, I am sure. I am always open to ideas and suggestions.

WHAT WE NEED:

Help, mostly, in any form!

Obtaining donated items (from local hardware stores, home centers, contractors)
Forming an action plan
Grant writing (Local, State, and Federal)
Website development
Logo Creation
Community outreach (speaking to people and groups who need the services or touch the lives of those who do)
Press Relations - writing press releases, safety alerts, answering media requests, writing articles, etc.
Even installing a few smoke detectors for a senior or dropping off some outlet covers to a new mom

....all of it needs to be done, and I am a pretty busy inspector, so there is a limit to what I can do alone.

You may know of some young parents who need a little help with childproofing, or a single mom trying to make it on her own, or a senior citizen who isn't able to make sure batteries in the smoke detector are changed. Maybe your current volunteer or charity interests overlap and we can partner with your group (like Habitat for Humanity, A Woman's Place, etc). Or maybe you just want a quick, simply way to help others out without a long term or major time commitment.

If you have any interest, let me know!

Help in identifying those who need these services, and how to reach them is also critical.

To start with, services will be provided in Philadelphia, Bucks and Montgomery counties - but I hope to expand them throughout SoutheasternPA quickly.

Oh, and - of course - any contributions (no matter how small - $1 buys 12 outlet covers!!) would be gratefully accepted. We will be setting up a formal website and will be sure to thank (and link to) our contributors, sponsors and supporters.

I will be sure to keep you all updated on progress.

And please - if you have any ideas, suggestions, or can help us in any way - don't be a stranger!!!

Joe Michalski

Sherlock Homes Inspections

PGW problems?

Joseph Michalski - PA Home Inspector (Sherlock Homes Inspections) — Sat, 03 Nov 2007 17:14:13 -0500

OK, I understand it's getting colder, and now that everyone is firing up their heaters for the first time - problems are being discovered and PGW is overwhelmed.

Currently, I am told that they are 3 weeks (at least!) from initial call to connection (so those of you planning for connection of new service to new construction homes -PLAN ACCORDINGLY!)

More importantly (or as importantly, depending on your situation) I have inspected no less than 10 homes in the last 2 months with PGW disconnect tags. Most of them dated the same day of the inspection, or one day prior.

For those of you unfamiliar with such shut off notices, they are carbon copy notices that say "DANGER" and indicate a reason why PGW has disconnected service and will not turn it back on, until the issues have been resolved.

I have been inspecting homes for 4 years now, and this latest wave of tags is 10 times as many as I have encountered in any single year prior. Apparently, with the transfer of service, PGW is performing physical inspections and red flagging items. Why the sudden influx, I am not entirely sure (and it is GREAT for safety).

Now, let's cut to the chase...

HOW THIS AFFECTS REALTORS:

If you have a property where such a problem exists, the inspector cannot inspect the furnace, range, oven, water heater, gas fireplace, or any other gas operated appliance. Repair must be made and re-inspection by PGW must be performed to have the service re-established. At this time, PGW is running at least 1-2 weeks for re-inspection (no guarantee you pass and can have service re-established.)

Clearly, this is causing issues with closing dates, inspection contingency windows, and makes for some VERY, VERY nervous buyers. (Who would feel confident when the local gas utility has refused to give you service for a "violation"?)

While I ALWAYS offer free inspections (from the date of inspection forward, for as long as the client owns the home), not all inspectors do (many charge). This can result in additional fees, heightened anxiety, and more angst for all. So, it is no big deal for me to come back at a future date when PGW has cleared the repair and verify that the unit is operable and in acceptable condition.

Just a suggestion, and take it for what it is worth, but those of you representing buyers with older heating units (really, anything over say 10 years that has not been maintained - just to throw a number at it) or a heating unit where some "amateur" work has been performed, might want to strongly consider having an HVAC or heating professional evaluate the system from the gas connection to the exhaust system, early on in the process. This can help prevent unforseen problems with PGW's seemingly sudden penchant for shut off notices, and reconnections.

Incidentally, the most common violations have been for "thermally activated dampers" (3) which are no longer allowed on flues (according to PGW), flexible gas lines penetrating into the casing of the unit (2) [this must be a solid pipe], and no temperature pressure relief (TPR) valve (2) on the unit (really, rally old units made before this was a standard installation.

Hope this helps! And, as always if I can answer any questions or offer any help, please do not hesitate to call me!

Best Wishes,

Joe Michalski

Sherlock Homes Inspections

http://www.sherlockhi.com/