I've learned that to really do well investing in real estate, you need to have a team of people you can trust and rely on. Here are some possible team members, and what they need to be on the team.

1. Real estate agent. A licensed agent with experience in the area you invest in and access to the MLS (Multiple Listing Service), can be a great help.

2. Real estate attorney. This should be someone familiar with the laws and legal customs of your area, and have experience with the type of deals you intend to do (If you are buying rentals, she should be familiar with doing evictions, for example.)

3. Accountant or bookkeeper. Keeping proper books for real estate investments is getting more complicated with all the tax-law changes. Find someone that understands the law, and what you want.

4. Mortgage broker or banker. The first can offer many options, but the second can make the loan decision. Each has their advantages, and you could use both. In either case it's important that they understand what you want (fast closings, lower interest, corporate loans?)  PS. Do not overlook private money leanding.

5. Appraiser. Not only can a good appraiser give you an accurate valuation of a property, but they should be able to suggest ways in which you can raise the value of a property. Use someone that will talk to you.

6. Inspector. In some areas it is easy to become an inspector with little experience. It's best if you use one that is or used to be a contractor, so he can find the problems AND give you a general idea of the cost of repairs.

7. Insurance agent. A good one will understand what you want, and find ways to save you money. Insure all your properties with one agent, and you're likely to have discounts available, and better service.

8. Escrow officer. They will usually be with a closing company. Look for someone that's efficient, and can explain things clearly to both sides. If he is confused by a slightly creative contract, he should educate easily or be replaced.

9. Contractor. Having a trusted person or crew ready means a fast turn around when you buy a rental or rehab project.

10. Property manager. Be sure that the company you hire has exerience, is responsive, and will have time when you call. A good property manager can tell you BEFORE you buy, what you should get for rent in a given area.

Real estate investment is less stressful and more profitable with a good team on your side.

I've learned that to really do well investing in real estate, you need to have a team of people you can trust and rely on. Here are some possible team members, and what they need to be on the team.

1. Real estate agent. A licensed agent with experience in the area you invest in and access to the MLS (Multiple Listing Service), can be a great help.

2. Real estate attorney. This should be someone familiar with the laws and legal customs of your area, and have experience with the type of deals you intend to do (If you are buying rentals, she should be familiar with doing evictions, for example.)

3. Accountant or bookkeeper. Keeping proper books for real estate investments is getting more complicated with all the tax-law changes. Find someone that understands the law, and what you want.

4. Mortgage broker or banker. The first can offer many options, but the second can make the loan decision. Each has their advantages, and you could use both. In either case it's important that they understand what you want (fast closings, lower interest, corporate loans?)  PS. Do not overlook private money leanding.

5. Appraiser. Not only can a good appraiser give you an accurate valuation of a property, but they should be able to suggest ways in which you can raise the value of a property. Use someone that will talk to you.

6. Inspector. In some areas it is easy to become an inspector with little experience. It's best if you use one that is or used to be a contractor, so he can find the problems AND give you a general idea of the cost of repairs.

7. Insurance agent. A good one will understand what you want, and find ways to save you money. Insure all your properties with one agent, and you're likely to have discounts available, and better service.

8. Escrow officer. They will usually be with a closing company. Look for someone that's efficient, and can explain things clearly to both sides. If he is confused by a slightly creative contract, he should educate easily or be replaced.

9. Contractor. Having a trusted person or crew ready means a fast turn around when you buy a rental or rehab project.

10. Property manager. Be sure that the company you hire has exerience, is responsive, and will have time when you call. A good property manager can tell you BEFORE you buy, what you should get for rent in a given area.

Real estate investment is less stressful and more profitable with a good team on your side.

You've bought a house, a fixer-upper you can make some money on. What improvements and repairs should you make? First of all, before you buy, you need to have some simple rules with which to start analyzing possible fixes.

Return On Investment

With fixer-uppers, you have do things which give the most "bang for the buck." Aim for a three-to-one return on improvements. If you're going to resurface the driveway for $1000, it better raise the value of the home by $3,000. Even when you're just guessing, keep this three-to-one formula in your head, if you want to invest safely.

How To Fix A Fixer-Upper

With things like new curtains, you can't really estimate the increase in value. What you can do, though, is group together the many small repairs and improvements you are considering, and imagine how the house will look when you are done. Then you can estimate whether you will have increased the value enough to justify the cost.

It often is in the small details that you'll get the best return on investment, so look at these first. A new mailbox, flowers on the porch, a raked yard and trimmed trees - $30 total if you do the work yourself - can make a big difference in the first impression potential buyers have. First impressions are important.

Other small investments that pay big include shiny new switch covers (less than $1 each), shelves, new door hardware, new light fixtures, curtains, new rocks or wood chips on outdoor paths, new faucets, new woodstain on decks, and general cleaning. Stand in front of the house and imagine what it might look like with various small improvements (flowers, wood-rail fence, birdbath, etc.).

The Big Fixes

Obviously, there are things that just have to be repaired. The basic systems must function. Improvements, though, should be subject to the three-to-one rule. You may have to get creative here. An investor client of mine once had a wall put up, and for less than $1000 created a new bedroom, probably raising the value of the house by $10,000. Now that's a good return on investment.

Bathrooms and kitchens are important. A $1000 updating of a bathroom can add $4000 in value to a home. Spend $2000 wisely in the kitchen (New fridge, re-finish the cupboards, add a garbage disposal, etc.), and you can add $8000 to the sales price of the house. Look for changes which are most universally valued (don't paint the kitchen pink because YOU like that color), and be sure you get a decent return on investment.

Depending on the fixer-upper, there are many potential improvements that can be worth doing. The bottom line is the bottom line: be sure anything you do returns more than you spend, preferably three times as much.

Here are 10 tips to help you find the perfect flip from HGTV's The Big Flip renovator's John Stassen and Randy Mackay.

1. Find properties that are diamonds in the rough - homes that are rundown in comparison to those around them - as these often have a low list price.

2. Are the surrounding properties well maintained? This can add value and clinch a sale when your house goes back on the market.

3. Scrutinize previous renovations. Poor quality workmanship can mean you have paid a premium for finishes that you will have to repair or replace yourself.

4. Can you add bathrooms, storage or enlarge a small kitchen to meet the needs of today's average family? If you can't, walk away, as these features often make or break a sale.

5. Ensure you do a thorough home inspection before purchasing properties - this could save thousands of dollars in the long run.

6. Identify your potential buyers (i.e. young professionals or families) and design the house with their needs in mind.

7. Find a real estate agent who understands the market. There are thousands of real estate agents; get one who is experienced and understands the business of flipping houses!

8. Do your research and find areas that are up and coming. Neighbourhoods that are in the early stages of being gentrified often contain homes that offer large returns on their investment.

9. Be realistic with your budget and always leave room for hidden costs. Early budget optimism can mean cost cutting later on, which means sacrificing quality - and profits - in the final sale.

10. Keep your eye out for properties with good layouts that can be easily updated with new paint and trim. You may get lucky and find a home that's a good price and only needs finishing touches, adding tens of thousands of dollars with minimal investment.

Contrary to what the credit bureaus would like you to believe, credit repair does work and can work for 100% of people in most circumstances. This is, of course, provided you are getting the best advice and have an experienced professional working on your case.

Any one with a credit score below 720 can benefit long-term from the advice and information provided through credit repair; however, there are times when your own limitations make adhering to this advice impossible.

The two limiting factors are:
1) your financial situation and
2) the time frame within your need to reach your results.

It is possible to remove anything from a credit report, even accurate items, if the creditor does not adhere to the law that outlines what needs to be done and by when. Just because you have a certain type of account removed at one time does not mean other, similar items are going to be able to be removed, even with the same circumstances. A hit-or-miss aspect exists in credit repair, because credit repair relies not only on the strategies of the person attempting to repair the credit, but also on the effectiveness or ineffectiveness of the creditors and credit bureaus in adhering to the laws. Sometimes you want the credit bureaus and creditors to follow the law, sometimes you don't; it all depends on your particular situation.

The reason credit repair has received such a bad name is due to the abundance of scam artists who flock to the easy money made available by people desperate for this type of service. This unfortunate reality leads the credit bureaus and the FTC to make blanket, untrue statements such as, "Credit repair does not work ever and there is nothing a credit repair company can do for you that you can't do for yourself." Given that more than 90% of credit repair companies are scam artists, promising the world and then disappearing when you pay, the credit bureaus and the FTC are forced to make such bold statements. It would be impossible for them to explain the truth to consumers without causing them to make a bad choice that would result in them getting scammed. As a result, the credit bureaus and the FTC must adhere to the "credit repair does not work" position.

As I have stated, credit repair does work, but don't let anyone tell you that credit repair is effective every time. Its success varies with the number of players in the game, some of whom never perform consistently. Even if you have a true master of credit repair on your side, you have to take into account that sometimes the other players perform in a way that throws your master off his game.

Take Shaquille O'Neal, for example. Although he has the ability to win every game for his team, there are going to be times when the other team has a formation that takes him off his game and causes his results to be less than optimal. Given that fact, you still cannot predict to any level of certainty whether or not he will perform well or poorly the next time he faces that team. Credit repair is similar. Sometimes the opposing side shows up strong, other times they don't. Even if you follow the same approach with every situation that arises when doing credit repair, your results will still vary due to the other players involved. So the next time someone tells you they can get everything repaired on your credit, run the other way, because, at best, the pendulum will swing widely both ways for the same situation.

Credit repair limitations occur almost 100% of the time under the following situations. These situations make it nearly impossible for credit repair to help someone needing results within six months to a year. Please keep in mind that even when you can't be helped in the short term, the advice that can be given now - if coming from a professional - can prevent you from making a mistake in the near future that may worsen your situation. Here are examples of situations where not much can be done within a six to twelve month period:

1. If more than 50% of the negative accounts showing on the credit report appear as unpaid collections, charge-offs, repossessions, or foreclosures and you do not have the money to either pay the accounts in full or settle them. Due to the negative accounts remaining unpaid, these items will simply reappear on your report once removed. Any negatives, even unpaid accounts, can be removed, but unless the negative account is current, paid or settled, it will simply reappear in 10-90 days. The only way to prevent this is to bring the account current by paying the past due amount, or, in the case of a collection, charge-off, repossession, or foreclosure, pay the balance in full or settle it for pennies on the dollar. Unpaid accounts that do not have collection, charge-off, repossession or foreclosure status require only that the past due balance be paid to be considered current. Unless the negative account is a public record, the only way to keep it from being re-reported is to make sure the status is "current, paid, settled, transferred or sold." In other words, if deleted, any negative account that does not show one of those five statuses will most likely get re-reported, unless the account is a public record.

Public records are the only negative items that do not need to be paid to prevent re-reporting. Because they are only reported once, public records, such as unpaid judgments and tax liens, can remain unpaid and yet will not reappear once they are removed. In fact, the only time they reappear is when the initial reason for removal was the public record agency failing to respond the credit bureau's verification request within the 30 day period outlined by the Fair Credit Reporting Act, in which case the credit bureau would reinsert the public record if and when the public record agency responds to the credit bureaus after that 30 day period.

2. Credit repair is nearly impossible if you can't pay your minimum monthly payments and you keep adding new late payments to your report. This is a "spinning wheels" scenario that rarely yields much improvement to your credit score.

In conclusion, you can repair your credit if you hire a pro and listen to his or her professional advice. The effectiveness of the credit repair depends not only on the skill of the professional you hire and your ability to cooperate with his or her advice, but also, a little luck.

1. GET RID OF YOUR COLLECTION ACCOUNTS.

Did you know that paying a collection account can actually reduce your score? Here's why: credit scoring software reviews credit reports for each account's date of last activity to determine the impact it will have on the overall credit score. When payment is made on a collection account, collection agencies update credit bureaus to reflect the account status as "Paid Collection". When this happens, the date of last activity becomes more recent. Since the guideline for credit scoring software is the date of last activity, recent payment on a collection account damages the credit score more severely. This method of credit scoring may seem unfair, but it is something that must be worked around when trying to maximize your score. How is it possible to pay a collection and maximize your score? The best way to handle this credit scoring dilemma is to contact the collection agency and explain that you are willing to pay off the collection account under the condition that the reporting is withdrawn from credit bureaus. Request a letter from the collector that explicitly states their agreement to delete the account upon receipt/clearance of your payment. Although not all collection agencies will delete reporting, removing all references to a collection account completely will increase your score and is certainly worth the involved effort.

  

2. GET RID OF YOUR PAST DUE ACCOUNTS.

Within the delinquent accounts on your credit report, there is a column called "Past Due". Credit score software penalizes you for keeping accounts past due, so Past Dues destroy a credit score.

If you see an amount in this column, pay the creditor the past due amount reported.

  

3. GET RID OF YOUR CHARGEOFFS AND LIENS.

Chargeoffs and liens do not affect your credit score when older than 24 months. Therefore, paying an older chargeoff or a lien will neither help nor damage your credit score. Chargeoffs and liens within the past 24 months severely damage your credit score. Paying the past due balance, in this case, is very important. In fact, if you have both charged off accounts and collection accounts, but limited funds available, pay the past due balances first, then pay collection agencies that agree to remove all references to credit bureaus second.

  

4. GET RID OF YOUR LATE PAYMENTS.

Contact all creditors that report late payments on your credit and request a good faith adjustment that removes the late payments reported on your account. Be persistent if they refuse to remove the late payments at first, and remind them that you have been a good customer that would deeply appreciate their help. Since most creditors receive calls within a call center, if the representative refuses to make a courtesy adjustment on your account, call back and try again with someone else. Persistence and politeness pays off in this scenario. If you are frustrated, rude, and unclear with your request, you are making it very difficult for them to help you.

  

5. CHECK YOUR CREDIT LIMIT(S) AND EVENLY DISTRIBUTE THE BALANCES YOU ARE CARRYING.

Make sure creditors report your credit limits to bureaus. When no limit is reported, credit scoring software scores the account as though your current balance is "maxed out".

For example, if you know that you have a $10,000 limit on your credit card, make sure that the limit appears on the credit report. Otherwise, your score will be damaged as severely as if you were carrying a balance of the entire available credit. Credit scoring software likes to see you carry credit card balances as close to zero as possible. If it is difficult for you to pay down your balances, read the following guidelines to maximize your score as much as possible under the circumstances:

• There are different degrees that scoring software can impact your score when carrying credit card balances.

• Balances over 70% of your total credit limit on any card damages your score the most. The next level is 50% of your balance, then 30% of your balance.

• In order to maximize your score without having to pay down your balances, evenly distribute your credit card balances among all of your credit cards, rather than carry a large balance on one credit card. For example, if you are carrying a $9000 balance on a credit card with a $10000 limit, and you have two other credit cards with a $3000 and $5000 limit, transfer your balances so that you have a $1500 balance on the $3000 limit card, a $2500 balance on the $5000 limit card and a $5000 balance on the $10000 limit card. Evenly distributing your balances will maximize your score.

  

6. DO NOT CLOSE YOUR CREDIT CARDS.

Closing a credit card can hurt your credit score, since doing so effects your debt to available credit ratio. For example, if you owe a total credit card debt of $10,000 and your total credit available is $20,000, you are using 50% of your total credit. If you close a credit card with a

$5,000 credit limit, you will reduce your credit available to $15,000 and change your ratio to using 66% of your credit. There are caveats to this rule: if the account was opened within the past two years or if you have over six credit cards. The magic number of credit card accounts to have in order to maximize your score is between 3 and 5 (although having more will not significantly damage your score). For example, if a card was opened within the past two years and you have over six credit cards, you may close that account. If you have more than six department store cards, close the newest accounts. Otherwise, do not close any at all.

  

7. BECOME AN AUTHORIZED USER.

If you have a short and limited credit history you can ask someone who is a primary account holder to add you to their account as a joint account holder or an authorized user. When added, the primary account holder's credit card will appear on your credit report. Credit scoring software will treat the added account as though it is your account and you will benefit from the low balance and the long payment history for that account. It is important to remember that being an authorized user is helpful for your credit score only if (1) the person is carrying debt below 10% of the credit limit and (2) has had good payment history on the card for seven years or longer. The longer the history, the better. Being an authorized user is potentially detrimental to your credit score if, for example, the primary card holder carries a high balance on the card and has had it less than five years.

  

8. KEEP YOUR OLD CREDIT CARDS ACTIVE.

15% of your credit score is determined by the age of the credit file. Fair Isaac's credit scoring software assumes people who have had credit for a longer time are at less risk of defaulting on payments. Therefore, even if your old credit cards have horrible interest rates, closing those cards will decrease the average length of time you've had credit. Use the old card at least once every six months to avoid the account rating to change to "Inactive". Keeping the card active is as simple as pumping gas or purchasing groceries every few months, then paying the balance down.

An inactive account is ignored by Fair Isaac's credit scoring software, so you won't get the benefit of the positive payment history and low balance that card may have. The one thing all credit reports with scores over 800 have in common is a credit card that is twenty years old or older.

Hold onto those old cards trust me! Preparing credit is a slow and time consuming process.

If you would like to schedule a free, no obligation consultation about how I can do this for you, please give me a call or send me an email. It would be my pleasure.

 

I look forward to hearing from you.

If you are interested in rehab as a real estate business, please contact me.  We offer turn key opportunity for investos who want to invest in Kansas City or in the Akron/Canton areas.    

Overview

The basic investment strategy is to purchase fixer-upper single family homes, rehab the properties to top condition, and quickly sell the homes for full market value.  Only houses that can be purchased at wholesale value will be considered for investment.  This ensures that the profits are secured at purchase and do not depend on an inflated market.

 

To have success with this strategy requires speed in the execution of the entire process, from speed in the acquisition of properties when an opportunity is found, speed from the contractors on the project, and speed in selling the properties on the market.  This will be accomplished through aggressive project management, selection of quality professional subcontractors, and marketing and selling the property.

 

Target Properties

The properties targeted for investment are single-family homes in need of significant repairs and located in decent neighborhoods.  Houses in marginal areas are not considered.  The attention is on houses in areas where first time homebuyers would want to live.

 

It should be noted that houses with major foundation or structural issues will not be considered for investment.

 

Determining Purchase Price

The purchase price will be determined by using a unique formula which will factor in the purchase cost of the property and the work to be done.  This is what secures the profits.  The beginning point in the formula is the ARV (After Repaired Value) and is determined using actual comparable sales in the neighborhood.  This is determined with a licensed real estate agent by using the MLS (Multiple Listing Service).  After the ARV is determined, subtract 30% and the rehab costs to determine the maximum purchase price.    This will leave a target profit of  20-25% depending on holding time.

 

Maximum Retail Value x 70% less rehab costs = Maximum Purchase Price

 

Estimating Repairs

Properties under consideration are inspected using a checklist developed for this purpose.  Items needing repairs or upgrades are identified.  Based on this information, a Rehab Cost Summary will be developed. 

 

Rehab Project

The rehab plan for each property will pay particular attention to curb appeal, the kitchen and the bathrooms.  These areas of the home are critical to the success of every project.  All rehab work is contracted to experienced professionals and is closely monitored.  The project will be professionally managed with experienced crews performing the scope of work.

 

Marketing & Sale of Completed Houses

The homes will be listed by a licensed real estate agent to allow for maximum market exposure.  The homes will be marketed using a professional marketing system.

 

Exit Strategy

Refinance the property after the improvements and cash out up to 90% LTV, then either rent the home using a property management company or sell it on a lease option for 1 year (which would also give you another 5% down payment in your pocket up front) the monthly payments would create a positive cash flow. 

 

SAMPLE

This house is a sample of one completed. 3100 Haskell, KC KS

 

Purchase Price         $12,000

ARV                            $75,000

Rehab Costs             $ 20,000        

  

Based on the formula the Maximum Purchase Price is $32,500

Target Profit is $35,000-40,000

 

 

  

 

 

This is a form that is  ery comprehensive.  I have used it as a contractor for inspections for my investor clients and rehabbers. This is similar to a NAHI approved inspection in all the areas that are listed 

General information
1 Inspector: ____________________      
2 Structures inspected: __________________________________________________      
3 Type: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / Condo / Mfg / ____________       Age: ________      
4 Client: __________________________________________________      
5 Start: _______________       End: _______________      
6 Fee: ________       Payment method: Check / Cash / Invoiced / Escrow / ____________      
7 Present: Client / Owner / Tenant / Realtor / Builder / Contractor / ____________      
8 Occupied: Yes / No / No, but furnishings present / ____________      
9 Weather: Clear / Partly cloudy / Cloudy / Rain / Snow / Fog / ____________      
10 Temp: Cold / Cool / Warm / Hot / ____________       Ground: Wet / Damp / Dry / Frozen / ____________      
11 Front of structure faces: N / S / E / W / ____________       Entrance faces: N / S / E / W / ____________      
12 Foundation: Unfinished basement / Finished basement / Crawlspace / Slab / Post-pier / ____________      
13 Excluded: Septic / Security / Irrigation / Pool / Hot tub / Well / Shed / Playground / Sauna / Outdoor lighting / Vacuum / Water filter / Water softener / Sound / Intercom / Generator / Sport court / Sea wall / Outbuildings / ____________      
14 Excluded: Furniture, stored items: Many | Some       Winterized      
15 Utilities not on: Natural gas | Propane | Water | Electricity | Oil      
16 General warnings: Gas leak       No CO alarms       Pre-1979       Abandoned oil tank      

Exterior
1 Footing material: Concrete / Masonry / Logs / None / Not visible / ____________      
2 Foundation material: Concrete / Concrete block / Post-pier / Brick / Stone / Steel on block (mfg homes) / ____________      
3 Wall structure: Wood frame / Steel frame / Concrete block / Pan Abode / Log / Brick / Stone / Straw bale / ____________      
4 Wall cover: Wood clapboard / Wood panels / Comp wood clapboard / Comp wood panels / Cement-based clapboard / Cement-based panels / Wood shingles / Wood shakes / Vertical wood / Brick veneer / Stone veneer / Stucco / EIFS / Metal / CAB / Vinyl / Masonite / ____________      
5 Driveway: Asphalt / Concrete / Aggregate / Gravel / Dirt / Permeable concrete / Porous pavers / Cobblestone / None / N/A / ____________      
6 Sidewalk: Concrete / Aggregate / Paving stones / Gravel / Wood / Brick / None / N/A / ____________      
7 Exterior door material: SC Wood / SC Steel / SC Fiberglass / Sliding glass / Wood panel / Glass panel / HC Wood / ____________      
8 Excluded: Vegetation, stored items: Foundation and/or walls | Retaining walls      
9 Foundation: Cracks: Minor | Moderate | Major       Large tree near       Footing above grade      
10 Retaining walls: Missing or inadequate guardrails above      
11 Cracks or deterioration: Monitor, maintain | Repair-replace | Repair-replace w/ engineer      
12 Rotten timbers: Monitor | Repair-replace | Repair-replace w/ engineer      
13 Driveway: Minor cracks | Repair-replace | Trip hazard       Reseal asphalt       New gravel      
14 Drain: Missing | Inadequate | Clogged      
15 Sidewalks and patios: Minor cracks | Repair-replace | Trip hazard      
16 Undermined: Minor | Major, replace slabs      
17 Fences and gates: Repair-replace | Repair-replace (major)       Repair gates      
18 Soil contact: Soil w/in 6" of siding/trim | Soil w/in 6" of siding/trim, rot       Unlined wood planter boxes      
19 Rotten landscaping timbers: Replace | Replace steps      
20 Vegetation: <1' from exterior       Stump near exterior       Large tree, fall hazard      
21 Firewood contact       Trees against roof | Trees against roof with damage      
22 Drainage: Soggy yard or standing water       Negative perimeter slope: Soil | Pavement      
23 Downspouts: Loose or detached       Missing       Extensions missing or ineffective      
24 Dented, crushed, damaged       Terminate above roof surface      
25 Gutters: Missing       Damaged       Leaking       Poor slope       End caps missing       Rusted   26 Crawlspace vents: Blocked      
27 Screens: Missing       Deteriorated       Clogged       Wells: Missing       Inadequate      
28 Siding: Gaps at penetrations       Deteriorated       Incomplete or missing      
29 Composition wood fiber: Minor, maintain | Moderate, maintain/replace | Major, replace      
30 Brick veneer: Minor cracks | Moderate cracks/deterioration | Major cracks/deterioration      
31 Cement-asbestos: Asbestos warning       Deteriorated      
32 Stucco: Repair-replace EIFS       Repair-replace stucco      
33 Logs: Uncaulked up-facing cracks       Rot       Sealant failed       Masonry contact       Bark      
34 Soffits: Deteriorated       Rot       Water stains: Dry | Wet      
35 Soffit vents: Screens missing or deteriorated       Screens painted or blocked      
36 Cantilever: No soffit cover | No insulation or soffit cover       Unvented soffit      
37 Fascia: Deteriorated       Rot       Rafter ends rotten      
38 Deck: Reseal deck | Reseal deck & rail       Repaint deck | Repaint deck & rail       Narrow spacing      
39 Substructure: Excluded       Needs bracing       Ledger board: No lag screws       No flashing     
40 Soil at support posts | Soil at support posts with rot       Inadequate clearance to soil below      
41 Stairs: Wobbly       Rot: Base of stringers | Treads      
42 Non-uniform risers: Warning | Repair       Non-standard: Warning | Repair      
43 Hand rails: Missing       Ungraspable       Loose       Not continuous or too short      
44 Guardrails: Wide gaps       Missing       Wobbly       Low       Climbable      
45 Electrical: Cover plates: Missing | Broken      
46 Receptacles: Open ground, rewire or replace with 2-prong | Open ground, rewire      
47 Broken       Scorched       Hot-neutral reverse       Loose       No power       Worn      
48 Damaged waterproof cover | Not waterproof | Need in-use cover      
49 GFCI receptacles: Won't trip | Won't trip with tester       Won't reset       Energized when tripped 50 Non-GFCI outside within 6'-6" of ground       Damaged by paint       Bad GFCI, can't verify others      
51 Light fixtures: Inoperable       No bulb(s)       Loose or substandard       Deteriorated      
52 Not rated for use in wet location       No caulk around back plate      
53 Wiring: Exposed       Not terminated       Splices not in box       Extension cord       Lamp cord   54 Wires run overhead to trees      
55 Exposed wiring at disconnect switch: Install lock | Repair (emergency disconnect)      
56 Paint & caulk: Caulk missing or deteriorated       Paint or stain failing: Entire | Some areas      
57 Window glazing putty missing or deteriorated       Caulked head flashing      
58 Hose bibbs: No anti-siphon       No water       No handle       Need screws       Leaks       Winterized      
59 Supply pipes outside subject to freezing      
60 Vents: Vent caps: Deteriorated       Missing      
61 Plumbing vents: <3' above opening | <10' from opening      
62 Direct vent: Inadequate clearance to openings or ignition sources       Installed upside down     63 Propane tank: <3' from opening | <3' from electric meter | <10' from ignition source      
64 250/500 gal. tank <10' | 1000 gal. tank <25' | Underground 1000 gal. tank <10'      
65 Hornet, bee or wasp nest      
 
Roof
1 Roof inspection method: Traversed / From eaves / From ground / From windows / Not inspected / ____________      
2 Roof type: Gable / Cross-gable / Hipped / Cross-hipped / Pyramidal / Shed / Flat / Mansard / Gambrel / A-frame / ____________      
3 Roof covering: Composition / Wood shakes / Torch down / Built up / Metal / Concrete tile / Clay tile / Slate / EPDM / Rolled / ____________      
4 Estimated age of roof: ____________________      
5 Gutter & downspout material: Aluminum / Steel / Plastic / Copper / Galvanized / Wood / Built-in / None / ____________      
6 Roof ventilation: Adequate / Inadequate / None visible / Unable to determine / ____________ 7 Excluded: Couldn't traverse      
8 Snow obscures: Partially | Completely       Debris obscures: Partially | Completely      
9 Vegitation and maintenance: Clean gutters       Clean roof       Moss       Trees overhanging     10 Trees against roof | Trees against roof with damage      
11 Age: Beyond service life       < 5 yrs left      
12 New composition roof will need: Tear-off | Sheathing | Both      
13 Flashing: Deteriorated, rusted       Lead improper at top of vent pipes      
14 At chimney: Deteriorated, substandard       No counterflashing      
15 Rubber boots: Deteriorated       Lifting or improperly installed      
16 Roof design: Slope-slope | Slope-wall | Slope-flat       No cricket above wide chimney      
17 Siding in contact with shingles below      
18 Composition: Deteriorated or missing       Popped nails       Raised shingles       Pressure washed      
19 < 3/12 slope       Pabco HO25      
20 Shakes: Deteriorated | Clean and preserve | Both      
21 Metal: Dented or damaged       Failing paint       Rust       Asphalt or tar sealant      
22 Concrete or tile: Chipped or cracked       Slipped       Missing      
23 Flat roof: Coating failed       Ponding       Gaps: Seams | Penetrations | Both      
24 Parapet walls: Deteriorated, substandard flashing | Slopes towards exterior      
25 Masonite Woodruf: Warning | Repair-replace      
26 Vents: Improper B-vent termination      
27 Plumbing vent: <6" above surface | <12" from vert. surface       Blocked: Caps | Debris      
 
Garage
1 Excluded: Stored items: Perimeter | Perimeter and center | Vehicle door(s) | All      
2 Appliances with no protective barrier       Walls or ceiling not fire-rated      
3 Garage-house door: Not fire-rated | Pet door       No auto-close | Repair/replace auto-close      
4 Weatherstrip: Missing | Deteriorated | Both       Gaps around when closed      
5 Vehicle door: Replace | Repair/replace       Water stains - caulk, paint       Lock inoperable or difficult      
6 Not balanced       Broken spring       No restraining cable on springs       Difficult to open or close 7 Weatherstrip: Missing | Deteriorated | Both      
8 Vehicle door opener: Inoperable       Mechanical auto-reverse inoperable or needs adjustment 9 Lock not disabled       Infrared photo eyes: Too high | Inoperable | None      
10 Control button: Too low or within reach of children | Loose      
11 Entry door: Deteriorated entry       Weatherstrip missing or deteriorated       Hollow core      
12 Attic access: Hatch missing | Hatch not fire-rated       Pull-down stairs not fire-rated      
13 Stairs: Wobbly       Garage-house step missing      
14 Non-uniform risers: Warning | Repair       Non-standard: Warning | Repair      
15 Handrails: Missing       Ungraspable       Loose       Not continuous or too short      
16 Guardrails: Wide gaps       Missing       Wobbly       Low       Climbable      
17 Electrical: Cover plates: Missing | Broken      
18 Receptacles: Open ground, rewire or replace with 2-prong | Open ground, rewire      
19 Broken       Scorched       Hot-neutral reverse       Loose       No power       Worn      
20 GFCI receptacles: Won't trip | Won't trip with tester       Won't reset       Energized when tripped 21 Non-GFCI in garage (excluding 1 for freezer)       Damaged by paint       Bad GFCI, can't verify others      
22 Wiring: Exposed       Not terminated       Splices not in box       Loose       Extension cord       Lamp cord      
23 Rodent evidence: Light to moderate | Heavy      
 
 
Attic
1 Inspection method: Viewed from hatch / Traversed / Partially traversed / Not inspected / ____________      
2 Roof structure: Trusses / Rafters / Not visible / ____________      
3 Ceiling structure: Trusses / Ceiling beams / Not visible / ____________      
4 Insulation material: Fiberglass loose / Fiberglass roll/batt / Mineral wool loose / Mineral wool roll/batt / Cellulose loose / Cellulose roll/batt / Vermiculite / None / ____________      
5 Insulation depth: _______________       Estimated R value: ____________________      
6 Excluded: No attic | No access hatch | Hatch inaccessible | Some areas inaccessible      
7 <1" clearance to flue       Water stains on wood: Dry | Wet      
8 Ceiling insulation: Vermiculite, asbestos warning       Paper facing on batts exposed      
9 Substandard | Uneven | Missing in some areas | None | None at skylight      
10 In contect with recessed lighting: Not IC rated | No visible rating      
11 Exhaust fans: No duct | Duct broken or collapsed | No vent cap      
12 Access hatch: No insulation over | No weatherstrip       Uninsulated pull-down stairs      
13 Electrical: Cover plates: Missing | Broken      
14 Wiring: Not terminated       Splices not in box       Loose       Extension cord       Lamp cord      
15 Attic fan: Inoperable | Noisy, vibration      
16 Vents: Blocked | Screens deteriorated or missing       Inadequate ventilation      
17 Water pipe insulation: None | Repair      
18 Rodent evidence: Light to moderate | Heavy      
19 Hornet, bee or wasp nest      
 
Electric service
1 Service type: Underground / Overhead / ____________      
2 Protection: Breakers / Fuses / ____________      
3 Amperage: 60 / 100 / 125 / 150 / 200 / 400 / ____________       Upgrade to 200 amp service      
4 Voltage: 120 / 120/240 / 3 phase, 4 wire, 120/208 / ____________      
5 Location of main service switch: ________________________________________      
6 Location of sub panels: ________________________________________      
7 Location of main disconnect: Top / Bottom / Top bank / All / ____________      
8 Service entrance conductor material: Aluminum / Copper / Copper-clad aluminum / ____________      
9 System ground: Ground rod / Cold water / Concrete encased electrode / Copper / Rebar / ____________      
10 Main disconnect rating: 60 / 100 / 125 / 150 / 200 / N/A / ____________      
11 Branch circuit wiring type: NM sheathed / BX / Knob and tube / Copper / Aluminum multi-strand / Aluminum solid-strand / ____________      
12 Aluminum wiring present: No / Yes / Can't verify / ____________      
13 Smoke detectors: Yes / No / ____________      
14 Excluded: Interior low voltage lighting      
15 Panel cover not removed: Stored items, debris       Paint/wallpaper       Arcing noises      
16 Shelving, cabinets or structure       Equipment energized       Water: On floor | Leaking into panel      
17 Service drop wires: Frayed       In trees      
18 < 10' above ground | < 12' above driveway | < 3' from openings      
19 <3' above 3/12 roof or steeper | <8' above a flat roof | <18" above roof ridge      
20 Service entrance wires: Frayed       Loose point of attachment      
21 Drip loop: None       Substandard      
22 Service mast: Loose       Bent       Broken or damaged      
23 Meter: Missing or broken seal       Tap before meter      
24 Federal Pacific       Zinsco panel | Zinsco breakers      
25 Service panel (substitute "sub panel" as needed): Inadequate working space      
26 Missing or inadequate legend       Tap before main       >6 switches or hand movements      
27 Bushing missing       Undersized wire       Wires not terminated       Contamination      
28 Double or multi tap       Doubled or bundled neutrals       Open knockout      
29 Burned or melted wires or insulation       No anti-oxidant       Old fuses: Eval | Replace      
30 Burned or damaged circuit breaker      
31 GFCI breaker: Won't trip       Won't reset      
32 AFCI breaker: Won't trip       Won't reset       Recalled (blue test button)      
33 Service panel cover: None or not installed       Not flush       Open closure      
34 Screws: Missing       Pointed or too-long       In contact with conductors      
35 Grounding and bonding: Plastic pipe       Dielectric connectors      
36 Clamp on rod: Missing | Loose | Rusted or corroded      
37 Clamp on pipe: Missing | Loose | Rusted or corroded      
38 Sub panel: Neutrals and grounds bonded at sub-panel      
39 Branch circuit wiring: Aluminum solid strand       Knob and tube: Energized | Abandoned      
40 Incompatible components: Undersized: Meter base | Service conductor | Main service panel      
 Water heater
1 Estimated age: ____________________       Type: Tank / Instantaneous / ____________      
2 Energy source: Electricity / Natural gas / Propane / Oil / ____________      
3 Capacity: 30 / 40 / 47 / 50 / 52 / 65 / 66 / 80 / Not visible / ____________      
4 Manufacturer: American / American Proline / American Standard / A.O. Smith / AquaStar / Bosch / Bradford White / Envi-Ro-Temp / General Electric / Hotpoint / Reliance / Rheem / Richmond / Row Con / Rudd / State / Takagi / U.S. Craftmaster / Vanguard / Whirlpool / ____________      
5 Model: ________________________________________      
6 Water temperature: ____________________      
7 Excluded: Shut off      
8 Obscured by: Insulated jacket | Stored items | Permanent enclosure      
9 Temp > 120       Flame or source of spark <18" from garage floor       Reverse plumbed      
10 Undersized       No catch pan or drain       Circulation pump installed      
11 Age: Near 8-12 years | 8-12 years or older | Unknown, may be old      
12 Corrosion: On tank | Water stains below | Both       On fittings      
13 Earthquake straps: Missing | Substandard      
14 Supply valve: Missing | Handle missing      
15 T-P valve: Missing | Leaking      
16 Drain line: Missing       Routed up       >6" from floor       <6" from floor       Undersized       In crawlspace       >4 elbows      
17 Electric: Substandard wiring       No insulated pad      
18 Gas: Inadequate combustion air       Melted insulation by draft hood      
19 No drip leg       Scorch marks       Scale on burner, pilot assemblies or at draft hood      
20 Flame: Yellow | Noisy (whistling) | Floats | Too high      
21 Flame sheild missing or loose: Inner | Outer | Both      

Heating and cooling
1 Estimated age: ____________________      
2 Primary heat energy source: Natural gas / Electric / Oil / Wood / Propane / Solar / Coal / ____________      
3 Primary heat type: Forced air / Heat pump / Baseboard / Fan wall units / Radiant / Hot water / Gravity / Circulating pump / Steam / Up draft / Down draft / Horz draft / Standard / Medium / High / Gas fireplace/stove / ____________      
4 Primary A/C energy source: Electric / Natural Gas / Propane / N/A / ____________      
5 Primary A/C type: Split system / Heat pump / N/A / ____________      
6 Distribution: Sheet metal / Flex / Metal pipe / Plastic pipe / Not visible / N/A / ____________      
7 Manufacturer: Amana / American Standard / Armstrong / Bryant / Carrier / Coleman / General Electric / Goodman / Heil / Intertherm / Janitrol / Lennox / Luxaire / Payne / Rheem / Ruud / Tempstar / Thermopride / Trane / York / ____________      
8 Model: ________________________________________      
9 Filter location: Return air above / Return air below / Behind grill / Base of furnace / Top of furnace / ____________      
10 Last service date: ____________________      
11 Excluded: <60 degrees, can't eval A/C       Can't verify heat source in every room      
12 No response: Furnace | Boiler | Heat pump | A/C      
13 Shut off: Furnace | Boiler | Heat pump | A/C condensing unit      
14 Age: Furnace: Near 15-20 years | 15-20 years or older | Unknown, may be old      
15 Heat pump condensing unit: Near 15-20 years | 15-20 years or older | Unknown, may be old     16 A/C condensing unit: Near 8-15 years | Older than 8-15 years | Unknown, may be old      
17 Service: Now & annually (heat pump or AC)       Now & annually (gas or oil)       Now & annually (hydronic)      
18 Now & every few years       Perform heat exchanger CO test      
19 Return air: Open in basement - gas & oil       Gaps in attached garage       No gaps below interior doors      
20 Fresh air: Fresh air timer not set       Keep air supply ports open 24-7      
21 Filters: Replace now | Wash now | Maintain in future      
22 Deteriorated | Not secure | Wrong size | None      
23 Ducts: Broken or disconnected       Broken hangers       Lying on ground      
24 Flex duct: Sagging | Supports > 5' apart | Narrow support straps | All      
25 Asbestos on ducts: Warning | Deteriorated      
26 Ducts need cleaning: Debris, dirt, dust | Rodents | Mold | New construction      
27 Insulation: None | Deteriorated      
28 Combustion air, clearances and disconnect: Inadequate combustion/dilution air      
29 Flame or spark <18" above floor in garage       <1" from B-vent flue       <2" from double wall flue      
30 Single wall flue: <18" w/o draft hood       <9" w/ draft hood and oil       <6" w/ draft hood and gas      
31 Cabinet: <6" from top or sides of furnace/boiler       <24" from front of oil furnace/boiler      
32 <18" from front of gas/electric furnace or boiler      
33 Gas: Rusted or cracked heat exchanger       No drip leg      
34 Gas supply lines: Rust       Flexible connector: Through cabinet | Subject to damage      
35 Flame: Yellow/orange | Floating | Noisy or dancing | Pop | Rollout | Changes with fan on      
36 Oil: Flame not orange to yellow-white, or sooty       Oil smell or soot      
37 Oil tank: Buy replacement insurance       Leaking | Rust      
38 Buy contamination & clean up insurance (for tanks still in use in WA state only)      
39 Oil supply lines: Leaking       Subject to damage       No shut-off valve       No filter      
40 Barometric draft damper: Defective       Spilling exhaust gases      
41 Air handler: Noise or vibration       Loose v-belt       No catch pan in attic - heat pump or A/C   42 Evaporator coils: Ice       Cooling fins: Deteriorated | Dirty | Both      
43 Outside condensing unit: Not level       Noise or vibration       No disconnect      
44 Refrigerant line insulation deteriorated or missing       Cooling fins: Deteriorated | Dirty | Both   45 Inadequate clearance: Vegetation | Structure      
46 A/C supply air: Not cool enough | Too cool      
47 Hydronic: Open system, Legionnaire's disease      
 
 
 
 
 

Plumbing and laundry
1 Water pressure: ____________________      
2 Location of main water shut-off: ________________________________________      
3 Location of main water meter: ________________________________________      
4 Location of main fuel shut-off: ________________________________________      
5 Visible fuel storage systems: ________________________________________      
6 Type: Public / Private / Community well / ____________      
7 Service pipe: Copper / Galvanized / PE / Lead / Not visible / ____________      
8 Supply pipe: Copper / Galvanized / CPVC / PE / Polybutylene / Not visible / ____________      
9 Vent pipe: Plastic / Galvanized / Cast iron / Copper / Not visible / ____________      
10 Drain pipe: Plastic / Galvanized / Cast iron / Copper / Not visible / ____________      
11 Waste pipe: Plastic / Galvanized / Cast iron / Copper / Not visible / ____________      
12 Excluded: Laundry appliances       Washer had clothes in it      
13 Main shut-off not found       Meter not found       Inspect, pump septic      
14 Pre-1986 lead solder warning       Lead service pipe       Polybutylene      
15 Public supply pressure: > 80 psi | < 40 psi, warn | < 40 psi, repair       Need expansion tank   16 Galvanized steel supply: Old, advise, monitor | Corrosion, leaks or low flow      
17 Copper supply: Pin holes or corrosion       Steel hangers      
18 Drain and waste: Active leak       Stains: Monitor | Repair      
19 Oakum packing deteriorated or missing       Hanger straps: Broken | Substandard      
20 Waste cleanout: Cap missing       Bad seal       Shows wear: Public sewer | Private septic      
21 Laundry: No catch pan or drain for washer | No visible drain       Fan timer not set      
22 Laundry sink: Unanchored       Concrete cracked | Concrete cracked and leaking      
23 Dryer duct: Plastic or foil       Kinked       Broken or disconnected       None      
24 Needs cleaning       Too long       Routed vertically       Sheet metal screws      
25 Water softener discharge: To septic system       To sump pump       Near foundation      
26 Air gap: None or substandard       Inaccessible      
27 Sump pump: Installed       Inoperable       Couldn't test       No GFCI       Not on dedicated circuit      
28 No check valve       No pit liner      
 
 
Fireplaces, woodstoves and chimneys
1 Fireplace type: Masonry / Masonry with metal liner / Metal prefab / ____________      
2 Woodstove type: Metal / Metal insert / Ceramic / ____________      
3 Chimney type: Masonry / Metal / ____________      
4 Excluded: Fireplace firebox obscured by ashes or debris      
5 Gas: No gas | No response | No controls found      
6 Hearth: <18" deep | Deteriorated      
7 Clean flue: Annually for all       Now: Fireplace | Woodstove      
8 Fireplace: Rusted liner       Gaps between firebox and face      
9 Fireplace firebrick: Minor cracks | Repair, replace      
10 Refractory panels: Repair | Replace      
11 Damper: Stuck open or closed       Deteriorated       Missing      
12 Woodstove: In garage       Replace firebrick       Eval and verify safe installation      
13 Inadequate clearances: Flue pipe | Stove | Heat shield      
14 Chimney: Missing: Screen | Rainproof cover | Both      
15 Too short       Pie plate       Wood burning flue shared with oil or gas flue      
16 Repoint mortar       Crown deteriorated       Cracked flue tiles       Major masonry repairs      
17 Unlined wood burning | Unlined with gas appliance | Unlined with oil furnace      
18 Gas: Vent-free warning       Glass: Fogged | Soot      
19 Conversion: Damper can close       No glass doors      
 
 
 
Basement
1 Insulation material: Fiberglass roll/batt / None / ____________      
2 Pier/support post material: Wood / Bearing wall / Concrete / Masonry / Steel / ____________      
3 Beam material: Solid wood / Built up wood / Laminated wood / Steel / ____________      
4 Floor structure above: Wood joists / Engineered wood joists / Wood trusses / 2x6 T&G / Not visible / ____________      
5 Structural: Post-beam missing ties       Overspanned: Joists | Beams      
6 Notches and bored holes: Joists, various substandard | Studs, various substandard      
7 Joist notches: In middle 1/3 | >1/6 of depth | >1/4 of depth at end      
8 Joist bored holes: <2" from edge | >1/3 of depth      
9 Stud notches: >40% of depth | >25% of depth, bearing wall      
10 Stud bored holes: Bored hole <5/8" from edge | >60% of depth | >40% of depth, bearing wall      
11 Water: Standing water or wet areas | Past water intrusion      
12 Entry door: Deteriorated entry       Repair/replace lockset      
13 Weatherstrip: Weatherstrip missing or deteriorated | Replace      
14 Stairs: Wobbly      
15 Non-uniform risers: Warning | Repair       Non-standard: Warning | Repair      
16 Hand rails: Missing       Ungraspable       Loose       Not continuous or too short      
17 Guardrails: Wide gaps       Missing       Wobbly       Low       Climbable      
18 Electrical: Cover plates: Missing | Broken      
19 Receptacles: Open ground, rewire or replace with 2-prong | Open ground, rewire      
20 Broken       Scorched       Hot-neutral reverse       Loose       No power       Worn      
21 GFCI receptacles: Won't trip | Won't trip with tester       Won't reset       Energized when tripped      
22 Damaged by paint      
23 Wiring: Exposed       Not terminated       Splices not in box       Loose       Extension cord       Lamp cord      
24 Rodent evidence: Light to moderate | Heavy      

Kitchen
1 Appliances older than 10 or 15 years      
2 Dishwasher: Inoperable       No water       No high loop or air gap | No air gap      
3 Loose or missing bracket       Water beneath       Noisy       Kick plate missing, loose or deteriorated      
4 Bad door seal       Door handle loose or missing       Leaking at air gap      
5 Refrigerator: Inoperable       Ice maker turned off       No ice or water      
6 Bad door seal       Broken or missing shelving       Door handle(s) loose or missing       Uses GFCI      
7 Range hood: None       Light: Light inoperable | Missing bulb(s)      
8 Fan: Inoperable       Noisy       Vents indoors       Filter(s) missing       Undersized exhaust duct   
9 Microwave: Inoperable       Turntable inoperable       No turntable       Digital display defective   10 Range/Oven/Stove top: Inoperable: Bake | Broil | Burner(s) | Oven light      
11 No anti-tip bracket       Knob(s) missing or damaged       Door handle(s) loose or missing      
12 Bake element standoffs missing or damaged       Downdraft exhaust: Inoperable | Noisy      
13 Food disposal: Inoperable       Noisy       Substandard wiring       Corroded or at end of life      
14 Hot water dispenser: Inoperable       Disconnected      
15 Electrical: Cover plates: Missing | Broken      
16 Receptacles: Open ground, rewire or replace with 2-prong | Open ground, rewire      
17 Broken       Scorched       Hot-neutral reverse       Loose       No power       Worn      
18 GFCI receptacles: Won't trip | Won't trip with tester       Won't reset       Energized when tripped  19 Non-GFCI within 6' of sink       Damaged by paint       Bad GFCI, can't verify others      
20 Light fixtures: Inoperable       No bulb(s)       Loose or substandard       Deteriorated      
21 Closet lighting: Open lamp       Incandescent <12" clearance | Fluorescent <6" clearance      
22 Exhaust fans: Inoperable or inadequate       Noisy      
23 Plumbing: Shut-off valve handle missing       Supply line leak      
24 Faucets: Loose or missing handle       Leaks when off       Leaks when on       Reverse plumbed      
25 Sinks: Sprayer inoperable or defective       Enamel deteriorated      
26 Sink drains: Leak       Clogged or drains slowly       Substandard repair       Flexible pipe      
27 No trap       S-trap      
28 Cabinets: Deteriorated       Loose       Missing shelving or components      
29 Hardware loose and/or missing       Drawers difficult to operate       No pulls or handles      
30 Water damage below sink: Minor | Needs repair      
31 Countertops: Minor deterioration       Deteriorated       Loose laminate      
32 Needs caulk at backsplash       Cracked or broken concrete      
33 Tile, stone and grout: Deteriorated       Reseal grout      
34 Floors: Refinish wood floor       Gaps between tiles in wet areas      
35 Vinyl: Deteriorated | Deteriorated in wet areas      
36 Tile, stone and grout: Deteriorated | Deteriorated in wet areas       Reseal grout      
 
 
Bathrooms
1 Electrical: Switch within reach of shower       Cover plates: Missing | Broken      
2 Receptacles: Open ground, rewire or replace with 2-prong | Open ground, rewire      
3 Broken       Scorched       Hot-neutral reverse       Loose       No power       Worn      
4 GFCI receptacles: Won't trip | Won't trip with tester       Won't reset       Energized when tripped      
5 Non-GFCI within 6' of sink       Damaged by paint       Bad GFCI, can't verify others      
6 Light fixtures: Inoperable       No bulb(s)       Loose or substandard       Deteriorated      
7 Closet lighting: Open lamp       Incandescent <12" clearance | Fluorescent <6" clearance      
8 Exhaust fans: None with shower       Inoperable or inadequate       Noisy      
9 Plumbing: Shut-off valve handle missing       Supply line leak      
10 Faucets: Loose or missing handle       Leaks when off       Leaks when on       Reverse plumbed      
11 Sinks: Enamel deteriorated       Cracked or broken       Loose       Stopper missing or defective 12 Sink drains: Leak       Clogged or drains slowly       Substandard repair       Flexible pipe      
13 No trap       S-trap      
14 Toilets: No water       Loose | Loose w/ wet or damaged floor       Clogged or weak flush      
15 Runs       Flapper valve did not reseat       Cracked or broken: Bowl | Tank | Tank lid | All      
16 Bathtubs: Enamel deteriorated       Clogged or drains slowly       Tile or grout deteriorated      
17 Caulk missing or deteriorated: At floor | At surround | At base of spout | All      
18 Jetted tub GFCI: None visible | No access, cannot verify      
19 Showers: Clogged or drains slowly       Tile or grout deteriorated       Diverter valve defective   20 Caulk missing or deteriorated: At floor | Around surround | All      
21 Cabinets: Deteriorated       Loose       Missing shelving or components      
22 Hardware loose and/or missing       Drawers difficult to operate       No pulls or handles      
23 Water damage below sink: Minor | Needs repair      
24 Countertops: Minor deterioration       Deteriorated       Loose laminate      
25 Needs caulk at backsplash       Cracked or broken concrete      
26 Tile, stone and grout: Deteriorated       Reseal grout      
27 Floors: Refinish wood floor       Gaps between tiles in wet areas      
28 Vinyl: Deteriorated | Deteriorated in wet areas      
29 Tile, stone and grout: Deteriorated | Deteriorated in wet areas       Reseal grout      
 
 
 
 
 

Interior rooms
1 Heating and cooling: No visible source of heat      
2 Recalled Cadet heaters, FW, FX, LX, TK, ZA, Z, RA, RK, RLX, RX, RW, ZC      
3 Registers: Missing       Loose or not flush       Damaged       Weak flow or no flow      
4 Baseboard heaters: Baseboard heater deteriorated       Electric receptacles above      
5 Electrical: Doorbell: Inoperable       Button loose or damaged      
6 Smoke alarms: None       >10 years old       Replace batteries       Too few | Damaged or missing | Both      
7 Cover plates: Missing | Broken      
8 Receptacles: Open ground, rewire or replace with 2-prong | Open ground, rewire      
9 Broken       Scorched       Hot-neutral reverse       Loose       No power       Worn       Childproof caps      
10 Few receptacles | 2-pronged receptacles | Few & 2-pronged receptacles      
11 GFCI receptacles: Won't trip | Won't trip with tester       Won't reset       Energized when tripped 12 Non-GFCI within 6' of sink       Damaged by paint       Bad GFCI, can't verify others      
13 Light fixtures: Inoperable       No bulb(s)       Loose or substandard       Deteriorated      
14 Old fixtures       Need 3-way switches at both ends: Hall | Stairs      
15 Closet lighting: Open lamp       Incandescent <12" clearance | Fluorescent <6" clearance      
16 Wiring: Exposed       Not terminated       Splices not in box       Extension cord       Lamp cord   17 Fans: Whole-house fan: Inoperable       Noisy      
18 Ceiling fans: Inoperable       Wobbly, unbalanced       <7' from floor      
19 Ceiling: Minor cracks       Dry stains, monitor       Wet stains: Roof leak | Plumbing leak      
20 Pre-1979 asbestos popcorn: Intact, warn | Deteriorated, needs repair or abatement      
21 Walls: Minor cracks      
22 Windows: Won't open       Lock missing or inoperable       Springs broken       Vents closed     23 Glass: Broken       Double pane seal(s) failed       Non-tempered w/in 18" of floor      
24 Screens: Missing       Holes or tears      
25 Bedroom egress: Too high | Won't open, or opening too small | Both      
26 Doors: Deteriorated interior       Won't latch       Binds in jamb       No gap for return air      
27 Keyed lock or deadbolt on interior door      
28 Locksets: Missing       Loose       Damaged       Installed backwards      
29 Entry door: Deteriorated entry       Weatherstrip missing or deteriorated       Hollow core      
30 Deadbolt: Key-only, no handle       Inoperable or difficult      
31 Sliding glass doors: Deteriorated       Difficult to open/close       Lock inoperable or difficult      
32 Double pane seal(s) failed       Handle missing or loose      
33 Sliding screen doors: None for only source of ventilation       Deteriorated      
34 Holes or tears       Difficult to open/close      
35 Stairs: Door swings out over stairs      
36 Non-uniform risers: Warning | Repair       Non-standard: Warning | Repair      
37 Handrails: Missing       Ungraspable       Loose       Not continuous or too short      
38 Guardrails: Wide gaps       Missing       Wobbly       Low       Climbable      
39 Floors: Not level       Refinish wood floor       Squeaky      
40 Vinyl: Deteriorated | Deteriorated in wet areas      
41 Gaps between tiles in wet areas      
42 Carpet: Loose | Loose with trip hazard       Needs cleaning       Deteriorated      
43 Tile, stone and grout: Deteriorated | Deteriorated in wet areas       Reseal grout      
44 Miscellaneous: 
45 Trim: Missing | Damaged | Both      
46 Fixtures: Missing | Damaged | Both      
47 Rodent evidence: Light to moderate | Heavy      
48 Lead paint: Intact | Poor condition      
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Marketing Can't Sell Overpriced Properties: You might as well be straight up from the beginning. If you're going to take an overpriced listing, have the nerve to tell your seller that it is overpriced in your opinion. Make sure that you make it clear that you hope to see either a market change or a price decrease in a reasonable amount of time.

Be sure that you also make it clear that no amount of marketing will get their home sold, and that some agents may not even show it if they believe it to be out of the acceptable price range.

Newspaper and Magazine Ads are More for You than for Your Client: The industry consensus is that most print advertising is more advantageous to the real estate broker than to their listing clients. These ads generate phone calls and possible buyers, but generally do not produce a buyer for the specific property in a given ad.

With a recent NAR survey of actual buyers stating that less than 7% first saw the home they bought in a print ad, it's clear that the consensus is validated.

Let your client know these facts and that they shouldn't expect a big showing response after ads run.

Internet Marketing is Effective, but it's a Numbers Game: The accessibility of the internet and the ease with which buyer prospects can research properties makes it an excellent marketing media. However, buyers begin their home searches sooner, and with longer time frames between research and a purchase.

If you are reporting web site listing page views or visits to your client, be sure that they understand that there may be hundreds or more that are only mildly interested or are using their listing as research to justify their interest in another property.

No matter the marketing, it won't sell until it's shown. Actual showings will tell the tale.

If Your Home Isn't Showing, More Ads Probably Won't Help: When you think about a real estate agent's job when working for a buyer, they advise them in their best interests. If a home is over the market price of comparable homes, they may have enough to see and choose not to view your home at all.

In light of our previous discussion of who print ads really benefit, running more of them, or larger ads, won't improve on your showing situation. Consider a downward price adjustment or some significant improvement in the property.

The MLS is the Most Effective Marketing Venue: By placing your property into the Multiple Listing Service, we expose it automatically to all the real estate members in the area. The listing is very detailed and provides significant information about your home for easy access. We offer compensation to any agent that brings a buyer, so it's in their best interest to search the MLS, locate and show your home.

In addition, we do various forms of online prospecting and reverse-prospecting functions in the MLS that have the goal of matching properties with buyers looking for their particular characteristics.