Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector's Blog

REO Inspections and HUD Property Condition Reports...Buyers Beware

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:55:59 -0700

The past couple years I have had a chance to see alot of bank owned properties. Some owned by HUD, and those referred to as REO (Real Estate Owned) properties. These properties can offer home buyers a great value and an opportunity for building equity.

Having a home inspection on one of these properties is so very important. Unfortunately the circumstances that led to the home being foreclosed upon also tells you that there likely is deferred maintenance and possible needed repairs that were not performed, because there was no money for the previous occupants to do so.

Furthermore the banks and HUD will have their own inspections performed. But Buyer BEWARE that these "inspections" are not necessarily performed by Washington State Licensed Home Inspectors, nor are those "inspections" performed in accordance to the States' Standards of Practice regulating home inspections.

A recent inspection I performed, for a couple in Snohomish, WA, revealed multiple serious defects which included electrical, plumbing, roofing, and structural concerns. The seller produced one of these REO inspection reports, explaining she received it when she purchased the home a couple years earlier. I read the one page report that provided little information useful to a home buyer, and revealed none of these obvious visible defects that would have been present at time of the previous inspection/ sale.

What is sad is this buyer relied upon the report as if it were legitimate, and failed to have her own inspection performed.

Another example is a recent inspection which involved a current HUD home in Kirkland, WA that also had a HUD Property Condition Report. Fortunately this buyer had the right idea, and hired me to perform a professional home inspection.

In preparation for the inspection, he asked if I would like to see the HUD report. I accepted and again was dissapointed, particulary once I had completed a thorough review of the homes' conditions.

This report was better than the Snohomish one, but still lacked significantly. There were several serious defects that the report did not address. Such as flooding of the crawl space, plumbing drainage and supply line defects in the crawl space, and heating system duct damage in the crawl space.

See the pattern....the HUD Inspector never inspected the crawl space!!!

Kudos' to the buyers' real estate agent for recommending the home inspection! Now the buyer can move forward with the knowledge of these conditions, and take actions to prioritize repairs and have them completed.

Harold Miller is a Camano Island, Stanwood area Washington State Licensed Home Inspector operating Miller Home Inspection throughout Snohomish, King, Skagit and nearby counties in Western Washington.

For more information see; www.millerhomeinspect.com

This is not your Grandfathers' Electrical Outlet... from a Camano Island Home Inspector

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 13:58:48 -0700

"Grandfathered" is a term often used when referring to something installed in a home that was in compliance with codes at the time it was installed, but no longer would meet the current code.

Like the old drum style trap in this picture.

It is grandfathered, meaning that the building code official will not be knocking on your door and telling you to remove and replace it. You don't need to do anything, regardless of the fact that these are obsolete, and not allowed in modern plumbing installations.

But does this same concept of grandfathering apply to home inspection reporting? A lot of agents that I talk to seem to think so.

I could not even keep count how many times I have reported deficiencies such as stair and deck railing pickets that exceeded 4" separation, the absence of smoke detectors, and similar concerns, to hear a response from the agent that those items are grandfathered since the home was built before the code was adopted.

Take for example the GFCI (ground fault circuit interupter) outlets that in modern homes are required in bathrooms, kitchens, exteriors, outlets, basements, and other locations where electrical and water are in close proximity.

GFCI's were implemented in phases for a variety of locations according to the NEC starting in 1971. (See chart below)

History of GFCI Requirements Introduced by NEC (National Electrical Code)
Year of NEC Publication	New GFCI Locations or Conditions Concerning GFCI Applications Introduced in NEC Publication
1971	GFCI receptacles required within 15 feet of swimming pool walls All portable swimming pool equipment must be GFCI protected
1973	All outdor receptacles must be GFCI protected
1974	GFCI protection must be used on construction sites
1975	GFCI protection required for bathrooms, fountain equipment, 120 volt pool lights, and boathouses
1978	Exemption for exterior GFCI outlets located 6′&6″ above the ground GFCI receptacles required for garages and spas (some local jurisdictions also included hydro-spa)
1981	Exemption for garage receptacles for dedicated equipment or not readily accessible (i.e. garage door opener power supply outlet that can not be reached without the ladder)
1984	Replacement of non-grounding receptacles with no grounding conductor Pool cover motors require GFCI GFCI receptacle distance from swimming pool wall extended to 20′
1997	GFCI required for unfinished basements GFCI required for hydro-spa GFCI protection required for kitchen countertop receptacles located within 6′ from the sink
1990	GFCI required in crawlspaces with an exception of sump pumps and any other dedicated equipment
1993	GFCI required for wet bar countertop, within 6′ from the sink Any receptacle replaced in an area that currently requires GFCI
1996	GFCI protection required for all kitchen counters, not only within 6′ from the sink GFCI required for all exterior outlets except for dedicated deicing tape / cable receptacle Unfinished accessory building at or below grade require GFCI protected receptacles
1999	Exception for dedicated equipment in crawlspace area removed
2003	"Smart Lock" type GFCI receptacles required

But, while the history list above is interesting, it has absolutely no bearing on how an inspector reports the absence of such devices. Grandfathering is not part of the Home Inspection laws that we are required to follow.

GFCI's are a safety device and the Washington State Law regarding home inspections (WAC 308-408c-110) require inspectors to "Verify" (iii) Ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection, and (f) Report the location of any inoperative or missing GFCI devices.

Thankfully we don't have to remember the chart above and apply it to every home we inspect. Either the home has acceptable GFCI protection or it doesn't.

So now you know the rest of the story....

Miller Home Inspection

Camano Island Washington

Licensed Home Inspector #209

www.millerhomeinspect.com

Stanwood Home Inspections (by a Camano Island Home Inspector)

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Tue, 06 Apr 2010 10:37:36 -0700

DO Peason House, Stanwood WA (courtesy Wikipedia)

If you are buying a home in Stanwood, I highly recommend that you have it inspected by a Wa State Licensed Home Inspector first. A detailed, thorough inspection can do more than reveal serious defects, but can also educate you on specific maintenance needs and systems unique to the prospective home.

My name is Harold Miller and I have performed thousands of home inspections since 1997 throughout Snohomish, King, Skagit Counties. Miller Home Inspection is located on Camano Island, so I am local to the Stanwood area.

I provide;

Computerized reports on site - (No waiting for days to receive your report. PDF Reports are also e-mailed)

Digital Photos of defects- (emailed on day of inspection.)

Inspections are completed in accordance with the WA State Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics.

A thorough and honest assessment of your prospective home. ...I work for you, and no one else!

You can find out more about me at www.millerhomeinspect.com.

Miller Home Inspection Camano Island WA

425-501-2382

www.millerhomeinspect.com

Camano Island Home Inspection

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 11:01:57 -0700

Camano Island, WA

Camano Island is considered large with a land mass of nearly 40 square miles. During the last census in 2000 there were 13,358 residents, but it was estimated that 17,000 during the summer months. It will be interesting to see what the 2010 Census report says.

Camano Island is named after the Spanish explore Jacinto Caamaño. On the west side of the island lies Saratoga Passage. Skagit bay is to the north, Possession Sound to the south, and Port Susan to the east.

The small Davis Slough and adjacent wetlands are all that separate Camano Island from the mainland at Stanwood. The General Mark Clark Bridge makes the connection for drivers. No ferries required.

There are alot of great things to see and do on Camano Island. Enjoying the beaches, boating, kayaking, fishing, biking to name a few.

We have alot of really good local artists, like Marc Boutte'. I had the pleasure of meeting Marc about 10 years ago when he was buying a home here on Camano Island. He offered to trade some glass artwork in exchange for my home inspection services. I was reluctant, as I knew hardly anything about blown glass, and art in general.

I accepted Marcs' offer, and obtained a few nice pieces of blown glass, and in exchange I gave his new home a thorough inspection. My wife and I enjoy these, as well as several others we have purchased since.

Marc created a glass blowing shop and studio out the home, where he continues to craft some really nice blown glass pieces. You can see Marc at work during the annual Camano Island Mother's Day Art Tour. Seeing how these glass pieces are made, brings a great respect and appreciation for the art. http://www.marcboutteglass.com/

Another neat thing to do on Camano Island is to stop at Terry's Corner where Camano Island Coffee Roasters is located. We met the owner, Jeff when he lived down the street from us, and actually was roasting coffee from a smaller building. We always enjoyed the days he was roasting because of the aroma that spread through the neighborhood. I love the smell of roasted coffee beans. http://www.camanoislandcoffee.com/

Jeff and his crew have some of the best coffee, and we are members of the coffee lovers' club. It is some good stuff.

At Terrys Corner there is a farmers market on the weekends, and the Islander is a place you can get a bite to eat.

This is really the tip of the iceberg. There is alot to do and see here. And for many of us, it is a great place to live also. If you are considering buying a home on Camano Island, I would be more than happy to help you in the process by performing a home inspection.

Miller Home Inspection

1561 Arrowhead Rd- Camano Island, WA 98282

425-501-2382

www.millerhomeinspect.com

Camano Island Home Inspections

Shocking Wiring Installation...(As it was never intended)

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 11:05:07 -0700

Anyone can drive down to the big box store and buy electrical supplies, yet once they get home, there is a chance that they will install it right. But in alot of cases I see there are often serious safety hazards created by the "weekend warriors" attempt at adding electrical circuits. The results could be devestating, causing fires or possibly electrocution.

As a home inspector, I get to see alot of what I call "Bubba & Skeeta" altered wiring. No permits; Plenty of double taps; No understanding of polarity, bonding, grounding, floating neutrals, amps, volts, watts, load side vs line side.......and lots and lots of "electrical tape"

There are times when I see some very dangerous conditions in homes and just shake my head. Like live wires sticking out of walls, where children can touch them, when they are with their parents previewing the home.

The reality is that are some folks that just don't respect and comprehend electrical systems. For this reason it is good to have a licensed home inspector do a thorough home inspection, which can often reveal such concerns.

Miller Home Inspection

Camano Island Home Inspector

www.millerhomeinspect.com

Bubble Skylights...Just as good as having a hole in your roof.

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 11:10:07 -0700

I don't know what compelled manufactured home builders to install these "water intrusion devices", .....but unfortunately they did. In fact., if I am going to find a leaking skylight it is often this design.

The problem is they run a bead of sealant around the back, and slap it into place. Sealants provide a few years of life (maybe) and then the water finds its' way in. Some of these will have tar slathered around the perimeter in an attempt to stop the water entry, but in this case they just allowed it to leak. Just as well, because the tar would not help much.

Poorly designed bubble skylight. An example of some of the water stains.

THE RIGHT WAY; A properly designed curb mounted skylight

Above is the right way to install a skylight. The unit is elevated on what is called a curb, with step flashings along each side, a head flashing at the top, and an apron flashing along the bottom. I hardly ever find leaks at this style of skylight.

Miller Home Inspection

www.millerhomeinspect.com

Camano Island Home Inspector

Everett Home Inspector

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 12:15:06 -0800

Are you looking for an Everett, Wa Home Inspector? Look no further.

Hi my name is Harold Miller, owner and operator of Miller Home Inspection since 1997. I started my home inspection business in Everett, WA and have performed thousands of home inspections throughout the Puget Sound Region. I travel to places like Seattle, Everett, Mt Vernon, and Bellingham.

I really enjoy providing the critical information needed by buyers in evaluation of the condition of a prospective home. I provide fast, friendly service. I take pride in providing a thorough inspection for my clients.

Computerized Inspection reports are provided the same day as the inspection. Some other firms make you wait a day or two. I also take digital photos, that help illustrate deficiencies observed during the inspection.

Please take a moment to see my website at; www.millerhomeinspect.com

To schedule an appointment, or if you have any questions, feel free to call me at 425-501-2382

Licensed Home Inspector #209

Camano Island Home Inspector

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 11:41:20 -0800

Looking for a local home inspector on Camano Island? Look no further.

Hi my name is Harold Miller, and I have owned and operated Miller Home Inspection since 1997. Camano Island has been our home for a decade, and I always look forward to helping home buyers in the process of purchasing their new home. The inspection will provide you with the critical details about the condition of your prospective home purchase.

I take pride in doing a thorough inspection and strive to exceed my clients expectations on each, and every home inspection.

My clients and their agents are often surprised that the inspection report is completed and printed out at the conclusion of the inspection. Some firms make you wait a day or two for the results.

I also take alot of digital photos during the course of the home inspection. These photos are used to illustrate deficiencies found during the home inspection. I present a slideshow at the conclusion of the inspection which helps bring understanding to the deficiencies reported.

I have performed thousands of home inspections throughout the Puget Sound Region including areas like Seattle, Everett, Mount Vernon, and Bellingham. But most of all I enjoy inspecting right here on Camano Island.

If you are looking for an experienced and thorough inspector to evaluate the condition of your new home. Then you are at the right place!

Please take a look at my website; www.millerhomeinspect.com

Camano Island link; http://millerhomeinspect.com/CamanoIsland.aspx

If you would like more information, or to schedule an inspection. Please call me at 425-501-2382

Licensed Home Inspector #209

Miller Home Inspection Inc, 1561 Arrowhead Road, Camano Island, Wa 98282 425-501-2382

What are Kick Out Flashings?

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 11:13:17 -0700

Kick out flashings are important in diverting roof water from an adjacent exterior wall system. Kick out flashings are normally installed at the lower end of the step flashing run. These flashings divert water into the gutter system. Failure to repair may be conducive for water damage, and fungal wood rot decay, in exterior siding and structural elements.

Siding damage under a roof to wall intersection missing this critical flashing.

This is a common flaw I see routinely, and sometimes it results in serious damage.

A great website detailing this can be found here; http://www.thehomeinspector.com/Clients/Newsletter/Kickout/Kickout.html

Make sure and have your home inspected by a professional home inspector.

Harold Miller

Everett, Seattle, Mt Vernon area inspector

Licensed Home Inspector #209

Licensed Structural Pest Inspector #58788

New Washington State Home Inspection Law

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 12:54:55 -0700

A new Washington State law has been passed requiring the licensing of home inspectors. (RCW 18.280)

By Sept 1, 2009 All experienced home inspectors must be licensed

- Must prove a minimum of 100 hundred inspections completed
- Must prove in business for two years (as of June 1, 2008)
- Must pass the National Home Inspectors Exam
- Must pass the Washington State Component of HI Exam

By July 1, 2010 Newer inspectors that did not meet the experience and/or time requirements, and those experienced inspectors who failed to meet the Sept. 1 deadline.

- Must complete a 120 hour course, and 40 hours of field training to meet the education requirements
- Must Pass both National and State portions of HI Exam

How do you know a home inspector is licensed?

- The status of every licensed inspector can be found at the WA State Department of Licensing website; https://fortress.wa.gov/dol/dolprod/bpdLicenseQuery/
- Or simply request to see the inspectors' license.

Why is it important for agents to be aware of an inspectors' status?

- The Uniform Regulation of Business and Professions Act
- Aiding or abetting an unlicensed person to practice or operate a business or profession where a license is required. (18.235.130 para. 9)
- Referring unlicensed inspectors may subject a real estate agent to disciplinary actions by the State and jeopardize their own license.

How does this change home inspections?

- The goal is to change things for the better....
- Inspectors will be required to follow a Standards of Practice
- Inspectors will be required to follow a Code of Ethics
- Inspectors will be required to complete Continuing Education
- A Home Inspectors Law Book can be viewed at;

http://www.dol.wa.gov/business/homeinspectors/hilawbook.pdf

Courtesy of;

Harold Miller

WA State Licensed Home Inspector #209

WA State Licensed Structural Pest Inspector #58788

Certified Residential Inspector

Serving buyers from Renton to Bellingham and all areas in between.

Since 1997

I hope this information helps. If I can answer any questions please feel free to call.

www.millerhomeinspect.com

Tamper Resistant Receptacles

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Tue, 19 May 2009 13:59:47 -0700

Yesterday I encountered my first new construction home that was equipped with Tamper Resistant Receptacles. These new receptacles have built in spring loaded shutters which are designed to protect children, and are now being required by the 2008 National Electrical Code.

To me this is alot better than the plastic inserts, which each have to be removed for inspection/ testing. I did notice however that sometimes you have to wiggle your tester to insert it into the receptacle.

Photo from Leviton website. Notice the distinctive "TR" stamped on the face of the outlet.

Leviton has a great display on how these work at their website and inspectors may be interested in their "Free" tamper resistant receptacle tester. See the link at their webpage.

Did last winter leave your home with distressed plumbing?

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Sun, 17 May 2009 10:28:12 -0700

I have been finding alot more plumbing leaks in crawl spaces after last winters harsh conditions than usual. Seems that it was just too cold for too long. Old homes, new homes doesn't really matter. Alot of these I have found at hose faucets and their related supply line.

In this case it is a slow leak at the transition fitting from the PEX plumbing supply line to the "frost free" hose faucet.

The home in this example was new construction.....just another reason it is a sound choice to have even have new construction inspected.

Additions... Are they a bonus, or a headache?

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 14:48:21 -0700

The answer to this depends on how well the addition was contructed. I am routinely reminded of this when inspecting homes.

For instance a recent inspection of a homes' addition revealed that the structure had no foundation, but rather was constructed more like a deck structure that someone added walls and a roof to. Unfortunately the work was done without permits (non-conforming) and had inadequate clearances in the crawl space.

The wood structure, of the floor system, was in some cases sitting directly on the ground, and exhibited serious fungal wood rot decay, and wood boring beetle damage. There could have been other wood destroying organisms present, but who will know until access to the damage materials can be provided?

(The bugs loved this addition!)

Another recent home addition I came across involved a situation where their was sufficient crawl space depths, but insufficient floor joist and beam clearances from dirt. You are probably wondering how this happened.

Well the crawl space was excavated adjacent to the old garage slab. The garage or carport had been converted to living space with a sleeper floor installed directly on the concrete. But the new floor joists over the crawl space were installed directly against the soil supporting the slab.

What went wrong? The slab should have been under-pinned to retain the soil under the slab, which also provides an adequate clearance between the wood framing and the soil. Fortunately this was not old enough to have caused damage, but over time this could have been a homeowners' nightmare.

What I don't understand is why folks don't get the proper permits, and avoid these pitfalls. When hiring a contractor to install an addition, the permit process and related inspections, are your protection against shoddy workmanship. It is the homeowners' responsibilty to get permits, and I would be leery of working with a contractor who suggests that one is not needed when making major improvements.

The other benefit is that the addition square footage will likely be reflected more properly on legal descriptions, documents, titles, etc. which helps when selling the home.

It also costs less to do it right the first time. It can be quite costly to fix these problems after the fact.

And most importantly it ensures that it is safe and sound.

Does your Attic Breath properly?

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 14:03:04 -0700

A well ventilated attic stays dry and free from condensation, mold, mildew, and fungal wood rot decay. Having the proper air circulation is a key to prolonging the roofs' longevity, and preventing damage.

An attic ventilation system is generally comprised of upper vents, such as the common box vents, gable end louvers, and sometimes ridge venting. Lower vents named soffit vents or bird blocks complete the system.

As the warm air in the attic rises an escapes the upper vents, fresh air is drawn into the lower vents. If the upper and lower vents are well balanced this system will work fine.

Of course this all makes sense, but it is amazing that how many attics are found with inadequate ventilation conditions. While I have to say modern construction homes generally have fewer problems, I do see alot of issues in those constructed over 15 years ago, and older.

Older homes that had only gable end louvers and no roof top vents seem to suffer the most. Ventilation of the attic is severely imbalanced in this system, and this allows moisture build up in the winter, heat build up in the summer.

But of course when these homes were built, insulation in the attics was minimal. The heat transfer kept the roof sheathing warmer during the winter. But after upgrading the insulation, less heat makes its' way to the roof. A colder roof = more condensation.

When this home was re-roofed, there were additional box vents installed near the ridge. This was an important improvement.

Here is an example of what happened in the years preceding the roof replacement and new box vents. Moisture stains and growth that looks like mildew. But yet another common problem in these homes was that builders did not understand what happened when the bath exhaust fans were also vented into the attic.

Oh sure they pointed them at the lower soffit vents, and assumed this was adequate. But this was a lazy short cut to say the least. The moisture from showers being ventilated into the attic can create significant damage to the roof system.

Remember that the soffit vents act as an intake. So the moisture may directed out, but it rises with the intake flow, and moisture is dispensed along the roof sheathing in the attic. These bath vents must have a roof mounted exhaust outlet for proper removal of moisture from the space and the home.

Make sure your attic breathes properly. If you are not sure a home inspector would be happy to check it out for you.

Do You Know Where Your Dryer Exhaust Is? (Home Inspections Everett, WA)

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 10:30:15 -0700

In my business I see alot of dryer ducts. Some good, and some not so good. Due to the way homes are constructed these ducts sometimes are neglected because they are hard to get to. In out of the way places like your attic or in the crawl space under the home.

My favorite place for a dryer exhaust is along the outside wall where the duct run is short. However architects have other ideas, like installing the laundry room in the center of the home. This makes for very long runs, and many times this results in exhaust problems.

In a home just a few years old, the dryer exhaust system was not completed by the original builder. (I have added this to my long list of reasons to get a "New Home Inspection" )

Fortunately this omission of duct and exhaust outlet did not destroy the roof. It was actually quite amazing that there was no mold or mildew on the roof sheathing. But given time, I think this would have been alot of trouble for the home owners.

Dryer duct work incomplete, venting to attic space.

I saw another case yesterday where the dryer duct was plastic, in several pieces, venting into the crawl space under the home. This condition is so very common. Additionally the plastic flex duct is my least favorite material. Is has a potential for fire. I would much rather see a rigid metal duct.

Speaking of dryer exhaust fires.....Did you know that in one year alone (1998) there were 15,600 fires associated with dryers? It caused 370 injuries and 20 deaths according to the CPSC. I have copied their link below which has great information on dryer safety.

Something important is getting the dryer ducts cleaned. This is another often overlooked detail that could result in fires or dryer exhaust failure. Lint built up in the exhaust can block flow and possibly ignite.

If you are looking for a professional to clean your dryer exhaust, you might consider hiring Tom Jacobson at Dryer Vent Safety Services. Check out his great website. http://dryerventsafety.homestead.com/

For the CPSC Document on dryer safety, here is the link; http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/5022.html

What is eating my house?

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Sun, 18 Nov 2007 12:12:17 -0800

What is causing all these holes? Is it termites? Carpenter Bees? Some species of wood boring beetle?

Well there is no need to call the Pest Control Operators, or a repair contractor. These holes from Teredo Shipworm did not occur in the structure. However their evidence can be found in some older homes. The example in the photo below is from a 1950's structure.

The Teredo Shipworm can infest wood submerged in salt water. That is how this damage appeared in our subject structure. Trees are cut down and stored in the water before they are processed at a mill.

The Teredo had a chance to bore into the lumber, yet the damage was insufficient to consider the materials structurally inadequate.

Here is what the Teredo looks like (from Wikipedia);

For more information see the Wikipedia site; Shipworm

Double trouble.....Test plugs, and vent flashings

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Thu, 08 Nov 2007 02:37:39 -0800

I bet the plumber is wondering what keeps happening to all his test plugs. Well I found one of them.

For those that don't know..... test plugs are installed on each plumbing vent so that the drain, waste, vent (DWV) system can be pressurized with air. Any leaks will prevent the system from holding air. If it holds air, then it should not leak when water is introduced to the system. After this test is performed, the test plugs are removed, so that the vents can function.

OK so the vent plug is no problem to remove, but what were they thinking when they installed the flashing? It is upside down and not properly "integrated" with the roof covering. Do you think that it might leak....lets' look at the attic.

Sure enough, it has been leaking. Fortunately not so bad as to rot the roof sheathing. So the fix should be simple.

This home is five years old.

Some more examples of why it is important to have your new home inspected.

When hot water tanks go wild......from an Everett Home Inspector

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Thu, 08 Nov 2007 00:49:49 -0800

Defective safety equipment on your hot water tank can result in serious consequences. I was reminded of this tonight as I watched an episode of Mythbusters with Jamie and Adam.

They were testing out the "myth" that hot water tanks can rocket out of a home when safety devices fail. Well I already knew the answer to this, so I had to look up the news story where it did happen just a few years ago.

http://www.seattlepi.com/local/33094_boom28.shtml

Puget Sound Energy workers examine a water heater tank in a parking lot in Burien, a block away from Cuautla Video, where it was before it exploded yesterday morning. (July 28, 2001) Credit: Paul Kitagaki Jr./Seattle Post-Intelligencer

The tank in the above photo rocketed through the roof of a video store and landed on the other side of a 6 lane road in this parking lot.

During home inspections I regularly test the TPR (Temperature Pressure Relief) valve to verify proper operation.

This is one of the devices that Jamie and Adam removed to perform their test. The hole was capped. The second device they removed was the thermostat. This allowed the hot water tank heating elements to run constantly. The results were explosive.

Discovery has some of the video here The force is incredible...You have to watch this!

Faulty Vapor Barrier installation (Everett Home Inspector)

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Wed, 07 Nov 2007 00:07:44 -0800

This structural support wall appears OK from a distance.

But fortunately the rodents had torn away the vapor retarder in places to reveal that it is sandwiched between a double bottom plate. The plate is not treated lumber... I can only wonder what this builder was thinking when they placed the barrier over conventional lumber. Did the builder not realize that the bottom plate would be pickled in a bath of moisture?

You can see that the bottom plate suffers from fungal wood rot decay. It was set up to fail.

The seller and the listing agent did not believe my report on these conditions (surprise) ..until we forwarded the photos. Digital pictures are great.

No one can deny, because the photos don't lie .............All the denial turns into stammering and studdering. :)

Blocking crawl space vents....Advice from an Everett Area Home Inspector

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Tue, 06 Nov 2007 23:32:11 -0800

Blocking crawl space vents....

Being a northwest native, I am not sure what part of the country this practice is acceptable, but one thing I can tell you is that it is not OK here in Western Washington. Yet I see it done, and have no idea why people think it is OK.

I have heard all sorts of excuses from; it keeps the humidity out, to it keeps the pipes from freezing, it keeps my floors warmers, and that is what my dad did, so I thought I should.

Lets' dispell a few myths;

(A) It keeps the humidity out; In Western Washington we get a fair amount of precipitation. The water absorbs into the ground and as a result the soil in many crawl space becomes wet or at least damp. Naturally this moisture becomes a vapor in your crawl space, and if you plug the vents the vapor becomes trapped and forms condensation. This leads to conducive conditions for wood destroying organisms, mold and mildew. NO- Installing vent blocks does not keep the humidity out, it holds it in.

One example I can think of is getting into your car with a few of your best friends, on a rainy day. Notice the windows fogging up on the inside of the vehicle. But if you crack the windows, and get some "ventilation" going the fogging disappears. That may not be the best example, but water vapor is hard to describe sometimes.

(B) It keeps the pipes from freezing; OK so this assumes that the pipes are uninsulated.

....Remember that modern construction either have a poly foam insulation, or the pipes are installed in the "thermal envelope". This should always be inspected to confirmed.

So I guess that in older construction, with no sub floor insulation, where heat moves freely through the floor to the crawl space this might have some possibilities. But after the PUD packages of the 70's and so on, it seems that I rarely encounter a crawl space with no sub floor insulation. It does happen, but it is not as common.

If the sub floor is insulated, then there is no way the vent blocks are going to make a dent in the ambient crawl space temperature. If you want to protect pipes from freezing, then installed insulation around the pipes. This is the best defense. NO-It is not a good way to keep the pipes from freezing. The best way is to insulate the water supply lines.

(C) It keep my floors warmer;This really is the same issue as the pipes freezing. If the floors are cold, adding blocks probably will do very little to improve the temperature of the floors. Maybe it is psychological because I have heard this excuse over and over, even on homes with sub floor insulation. Science does not support it. NO-In most homes it would not keep the floors any warmer. Sub floor insulation will keep your floor warmer than crawl space blocks.

(D)That is what my dad did, so I thought I should;Bingo, this is so common. Dad had uninsulated pipes, floors, walls, and maybe even uninsulated ceilings. Many also had a wood stove for the primary heat. Older homes may have had wood skirting. It did not matter that dad installed blocks, because everything leaked air like a sieve. ... To top it off.....Dad lived in Nebraska (where it might be OK to block the vents-but I don't know)

With modern homes, and improved insulation in older homes, better methods to seal air leakage, it is easier than ever to trap moisture where it does not belong. I have performed too many inspections, that revealed tens of thousands of dollars in damage from blocked crawl space vents.

NO-Someones' dad owned the house below....see what happened.

My advice is to keep all the vents clear of obstructions, make sure that the screens are in good condition to keep the rodents out, and if you have metal louvered vents, change them out for the 1/4" hardware mesh cloth, which ventilates much better.

Anatomy of a Post Frame Building

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Tue, 06 Nov 2007 10:13:18 -0800

A couple years ago wife and I were facing a dillema. Our garage was getting too small with all my power tools, equipment, etc. etc. and it was so bad that I couldn't park in the garage any more. Compounding our issue was a 28' boat that we could either keep at an indoor heated storage facility for about $400 a month, or park on the trailer in our driveway and allow the harsh elements to degrade the boat.

The answer to our problems was a 26' X 40' Post frame building (Pole Barn). The structures are both versatile and cost effective. To us it just made sense to add value to our property, instead of throwing money away on keeping the boat at the marina.

Our first step was to get the site prepped for the building. It had to be level. Unfortunately the lot sloped so much that we had to use ecology blocks to form a retention wall along the north and west sides of the building site. The wall is almost 4 feet in height in the rear corner. The fill materials had to be installed in "lifts". Each layer was compacted to build a stable base for the concrete floor slab of the buillding.

Here is the frame of our building all ready for siding, roofing, and doors. They are very simple structures that provide many years of serviceable life. When I encounter these buildings during inspections, there rarely are any serious problems found.

Getting the building posts set was time consuming. The holes have to be deep. The contractor digging the holes for each post was having great difficulty. They use a Bobcat with an auger attachment to drill the holes, but we have a ton of rocks, ...some are better described as boulders. Needles to say he was not a happy camper. But once the posts were set, things went up fast.

And here is the finished product, well at least on the outside. On the inside I have completed the electrical, and plumbing, Currently I am in the process of insulating, and soon will be completing the drywall. Eventually I will construct a loft.

The large door is 14' foot high by 12' wide, and the smaller door is 8' high by 10' wide.

And now my wife is happy to be rid of all my "junk" out of "her" garage. :)

Stand Off with a "Vicious Creature"

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Mon, 05 Nov 2007 01:31:28 -0800

With steely eyes, an attack posture, and fangs that look like they could inflict some serious pain....My heart was racing as I looked around for my possible routes of escape. I was at a disadvantage standing on a steep townhome roof three stories above the ground........

Well with this picture I am sure you just won't believe how viscious he was.

This little furry guy was not real happy about my presence on the roof. Seems this was his territory....and he is just not use to seeing a human up on the roof.

Turns out that the builder failed to install the blocking between the rafter tails, which makes a nice home for the squirells.

OK...so he wasn't that vicious....but I would call it a creature.

Public Service Announcement; ....Get you soffits checked by a professional home inspector, or you too could have squirrels living the high life in your attic

Don't wait to see if the buyer notices the failed siding.

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Thu, 01 Nov 2007 09:55:06 -0700

Failed exterior Louisiana Pacific (LP), Inner Seal, siding is a defect that I run into frequently. The product is an oriented strand board product (OSB), which has been the subject of a class action lawsuit. The Inner Seal product was manufactured from about 1985 to 1996, and was produced in both lap and panels.

The main problem with this particular material is that it tends to absorb moisture, which leads to buckling, swelling, edge checking, and fungal wood rot decay. The material has a porous bottom edge (drip edge) that is conducive for water penetration. Add to this the fact that when homes are constructed it is rare that a sufficient amount of paint would be applied to encapsulate this edge. And finally many of the homes I find damage on, also suffer from a lack of proper homeowner maintenance.

These three factors; manufacturing, finish paint, and deferred maintenance, have created a "perfect storm" for serious damage to the siding on many homes. The cost to remove, replace, and repaint often runs into the tens of thousands of dollars for homeowners.

Notice in this photo the siding has swelling and edge checking directly under the area of the roof wall intersection. There was never a kick out flashing installed, allowing roof drainage to makes it's way down between the gutter and the wall. This is a good example of faulty construction practices, instead of a manufacturing defect.

As the water swells this material, the edge checking increases, and allows even more water to absorb into the material.

Many times people are surprised to find that their LP Inner Seal Siding has failed. Buyers and agents often did not notice the problems. The reason for this is how people generally look at the siding. Most people look straight at face of the siding, when it is really the bottom drip edge that needs to be inspected. This often requires kneeling down and looking up at these edges. For upper levels you need to get in close to the structure and look up.

When damaged siding is found, buyers and sellers are left to struggle over who is paying for what. Such 11th hour negotiations can be stressful for all involved. Sometimes there is inusfficient time to get bids from siding contractors and closings, are delayed, etc. And I have seen buyers simply just walk away from the deal over the siding issues.

Sellers with homes clad in LP Inner Seal should consider having this issue addressed before an offer is received. I think that many homeowners are somewhat aware of the issue, as it is hard to ignore that a few homes in the neighborhood have already been re-sided. But having the siding inspected is a first step to determine the condition, and what repairs are needed.

Dealing with the faulty siding before an offer is received, removes a buyers leverage over that issue.

www.millerhomeinspect.com

Power at only half of the house?

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Wed, 31 Oct 2007 10:41:32 -0700

It was a rainy Sunday and my wife and I were arriving home after a 6 hour drive from Spokane, WA. All we wanted to do is come home and relax before the start of a new work week.

Our first clue that things weren't right was the garage door would not open. ......hmmm? I get out of the car and let myself in through the back garage door. After fiddling with the operator switch, with no response, I notice the typical red light is not on. I think that it is strange that the door operator has no power when the garage lights are on.

I check the circuit breakers and all looks fine. I get an extension cord and plug the operator into another outlet that is functional and open the garage door, assuming the problem is isolated to the one outlet. No big deal, I can troubleshoot that.

But not so fast. We enter the house and find that roughly half of our homes' electrical system is functional and the other half is dead. OK now I know that something more serious has occured, but what?

I proceed back down to the main panel, pull off the cover, and test voltage at the mains. (For those not familiar with electrical, this is a job for your electrician, for safety reasons. )

I found that one leg of the service entrance conductor has the normal approx. 120 VAC, but the other leg has pretty much zero. OK so I know that the fault is not in my house, and not in my panel, so where is the problem? I get on the phone to the Snohomish County PUD (our local utility) and explain the problem. They send a technician out right away.

The type of system I have is as follows; From the utilities pole mounted transformer an aerial (overhead) service runs to a power pole at the end of my driveway. My power meter is located on the pole, and the service then disappears underground where it travels to the home.

Ok, So the PUD technician arrives, he pulls the meter at the pole, and tests both legs from the utility. He finds that he has adequate voltage at each leg, and tells me sorry I can't help you. The fault has to be under ground between the meter and the home. This is not the utilities responsibility, so it is my problem, unfortunately.

So where is the fault? I decided locating this problem is well beyond my abilities so I call in the pro's. The next morning I contact a local electrician, Dennis Calabria, Calabria Electrical of Camano Island. He explains that in order to find the fault we need a locator service. He refers me to CNI Locates of Auburn, WA http://cnilocates.com/

By Tuesday morning I have CNI Locates and Dennis Calabria on site. The electrician must disconnect the service lateral from both the panel and the meter box for the locator to do his testing. The locator sends a low voltage signal down the line, and with with detector can pinpoint with amazing accuracy the location of the break. Within less than 15 minutes he has located the problem and marked it.

I agreed that I would be the one to excavate so that the electrician could come back and make the needed repairs.

In the pic above you can see the section of wire removed by the electrician. The aluminum stranded conductor basically turned into powder from corrosion. We know that the wire insulation had been compromised, which allowed moisture to enter and attack the wire.

Why did this happen/ We have to make some assumptions. There are a couple ways this happened. First the builder chose the low cost, minimum code acceptable method to install this service lateral. (Direct burial) I and my electrician both prefer that laterals be placed in conduit. But the builder was within codes, however minimal they are.

Next in a direct burial application the trench must be backfilled with sand to protect the insulation from rocks. Well the builder did not line the area around the wire with sand. So it is possible that a rock damaged the insulation. Another thought was that the insulation had been damaged during installation some other way.

The picture above shows Dennis's repair of the failed section. While he and I both would prefer to have put in another complete service lateral, buried in conduit, it came down to economics. This repair should last many years, but it is not the perfect answer. If there are other portions of the service that have damaged insulation it is a matter of time before we will experience this same problem again. But none of us know of that will ever happen.

"Anything Can Break at Anytime" at an Everett Home Inspectors house.

Harold Miller - Everett Home Inspector (Miller Home Inspection) — Sun, 28 Oct 2007 11:50:34 -0700

Well it was a rainy day in the Pacific Northwest when my wife called to inform me that our basement carpet was sopping wet. I had just wrapped up an inspection an hours drive away, and proceeded directly home.

In the meantime I talked my wife through some things to check. First we had to establish was it ground water or plumbing related. I asked her to make sure all the plumbing fixtures were off and asked her to go look at the homes water meter.....bingo, she told me she could see the meter running....slowly but it was running. I had her shut the water off, and use our carpet extractor to get as much of the water out of the carpet.

Now the trick for me was to determine where in the heck the leak was. We could see that the carpet was most saturated along the front wall. I pulled up the carpet, and used my shop vac to remove all the water I could. Then I had my wife turn on the water, while I listened and watched for water. It did not take long to find the location.

Our home was almost three years old when this occured, and I was not excited about hacking into the drywall. But it had to be done. Zip, zip, zip and out came a rectangular peice. This allowed me access to visually pinpoint the leaky menace.

Lucky me, the leak was not on the side of the foundation wall where I had just torn out the drywall. Probably was of little consequence since the wall had to be opened to get everything dry and prevent mold. So out to the exterior I headed to excavate at least 3 feet deep to access the water main where it enters the foundation wall.

Wish I had a photo, but what I found was that the pipe on the exterior had been bent downward, which weakend the pipe, and eventually caused a crack, that allowed water to enter through the foundation wall penetration. I must assume that the pipe was bent during the original construction when they were back filling.

Fortunately I have worked with copper plumbing a lot and it was easy enough for me to repair. For me it was much easier and less time consuming than patching and texturing the drywall.

We spent alot of time getting everything dry. Extracted all we could with the machine, shop vac, pulled the carpet and padding to dry the back, and in between. I did not want any mold or mildew, anywhere.

Just goes to show it does not matter the age of the home. Any thing can break at any time.