| |
Hi Everybody. I have been away from Active Rain for a long time. It has been a tough "SLOW SEASON" on Long Island, but it looks like busines is finally picking up some. Yesterday during a home inspection I saw the following. It never ceases to amaze me what some people will do to "repair" a deficiency. In this case I imagine the deficiency was a drafty window? 

Now, this house was vacant, and it was a FLIP house. Why on earth wouldn't the "Flipper" do something about this? Damn, there I go asking "WHY" just like my clients do. If I knew why I would be a very rich man. It is the question I get most often that I simply cannot answer. I suppose there are many answers, like; ignorance, stupidity, indifference, or just plain being a slob. I have said it before, and i will say it again, "Every time I think I have seen it all, I see something else!"
Most areas of North America are subject to infestation from wood-destroying insects and organisms in varying degrees. With few exceptions, the common denominator for this activity is excessive wood-moisture levels. This moisture can be due to roof leaks, plumbing leaks, unvented crawl spaces and attics, or construction defects such as wood-soil contact. In general, older homes are more susceptible to infestation; however, any house is a candidate if conditions are right.
Termites Termites are the most common and most destructive wood-destroying insect. They are most prevalent in warm climates, but can be found in a few localized areas of Canada as well. Termites, like ants, are a social, colonizing insect. Within each colony there are reproductives, soldiers, and workers. The workers are the ones that damage the wood. There are many species of termite; the two most common are subterranean and drywood termites.
Subterranean Termites Any time wood is exposed to elevated moisture, conditions are ripe for subterranean termite activity. Wood close to or in contact with soil is especially prone to termite attack. The workers build mud tunnels or tubes as a means of traveling between the soil and wood elements. The hidden nature of their activity makes them especially difficult to detect. Often the tunnels are the only visible sign of their presence. Swarming winged termites or damaged wood are also indications of activity. Formosan termites are a very aggressive subterranean termite species that has invaded areas of the southeastern U.S.
Traditional treatment for subterranean termites involves applying a chemical barrier between the house and soil using non-repellant pesticides (termiticides). Termites passing through the barrier pick up the toxic chemical and carry it to the nesting areas where the entire colony is eventually affected. A relatively new approach to termite treatment is baiting. Bait stations are placed around the perimeter of a house; when there is evidence of termite activity at the station, a termiticide is placed in the station. While bait stations may be used proactively, in most cases they are used in conjunction with some form of conventional treatment when an infestation has been confirmed. Surface applied borates are also used for termite treatment. Conventional treatment measures may not be possible in some cases, such as when a well is located within or near the foundation or if the heating system ductwork or piping runs through a floor slab. Formosan termites are a very aggressive subterranean termite species that has invaded areas of the southeastern U.S.
Drywood Termites These insects are most prevalent in warm southern coastal areas. Drywood termites feed and nest within the wood. They will attack relatively dry wood anywhere in a structure. Signs of their activity include small piles of fecal pellets or partially digested wood. Spot treatment is possible for limited infestations, however, in more severe cases, tenting of the house and fumigation may be required.
Carpenter Ants The carpenter ant, a relatively large black to reddish-black ant, has become a major infestation problem in many areas. When nesting in old tree stumps or timbers, they often invade the house foraging for food. But they will also nest within a house. They are attracted to moist environments and will gnaw out their galleries for their offspring in solid wood adjacent to a high-moisture area. But unlike termites, they receive no nourishment from the wood they excavate. Carpenter ant damage is generally more localized than damage caused by termite infestation. While treatment for carpenter ants sometimes involves the whole house; in most cases spot treatment using a surface applied pesticide, or even simply removing the source of attraction (moisture), can eliminate the infestation.
Beetles There are numerous types of wood destroying beetles. Common types include powderpost beetles, wharf borers, and old house beetles. Each beetle has differing physical characteristics such as its size, shape, color, etc. Older homes are generally more likely to experience beetle infestation; however, it is also possible to find infestation in newly milled lumber used for new homes or furniture.
Adult beetles deposit eggs in cracks or holes in the wood. As they develop into the larval stage, they start boring through the wood. After a period of months, or sometimes years, the larvae emerge as adults through "exit" holes. The primary signs of beetle activity are their exit holes and fine sawdust-like “frass,” which may fall from the holes. In many cases, despite the presence of exit holes, the infestation will actually be the result of old activity. Often spot treatment of the infested area or applying a surface pesticide or even paint will prevent a recurrence. In extreme cases of chronic re-infestation, fumigation may be required.
Carpenter bees The carpenter bee, a large bee that is similar in appearance to a bumble bee, creates tunnels in wood, often in an exterior trim piece, to deposit its eggs. This bee is primarily a nuisance pest, but if allowed to reinfest the same areas, structural damage could occur. The principal sign of activity is the presence of ½-inch diameter holes with stains below. Sawdust piles may also be evident. Spot treating and plugging the holes will take care of most carpenter bee infestations.
Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at housemaster.com.
This information is provided for general guidance purposes only. Neither HMA Franchise Systems, Inc. nor the local HouseMaster® franchise warrants its accuracy and assumes no liability related to its use. Contact the local franchise office and/or qualified specialists for advice pertinent to your specific house or circumstances. © Copyright 2007 HMA. Each HouseMaster franchise is an independently owned and operated business. HouseMaster is a registered trademark of HMA Franchise Systems, Inc.
Homeowners can repair and reseal their blacktop driveways, creating a professionally finished look, particularly if the driveway is a manageable size. Simply follow these simple steps:
- Plan ahead. Schedule the job during a week when the forecast is sunny, warm, and dry for several days. Reschedule any deliveries, since the driveway should not be used until the sealer dries.
- Dress appropriately. Wear old shoes and clothing that you can discard; wear gloves to protect hands.
- Clean the driveway thoroughly. Use a leaf blower or broom to remove loose dirt and debris. Remove any oil stains with a commercial degreaser.
- Patch cracks more than 1/8 inch wide. Small cracks can be filled by using a sealer containing fine filler such as sand. Tube-type fillers are also available. If the cracks are too numerous or large, you might need to resurface.
- Follow instructions. Review product directions carefully. Allow new driveways to age at least a year before applying a sealer. If crack fillers are used, you may need to wait a month or more for them to properly cure before applying the sealer. If the driveway has been sealed previously, use a compatible type sealer.
- Mix thoroughly. Blending containers together will help ensure uniform shading. Make sure you have enough sealer on hand so you don’t have to stop in the middle of a job, which might result in a change of appearance.
- Pour, spread, and brush sealer onto the driveway. First, pour sealer on section of the driveway. Next, spread with the recommended type squeegee applicator. Finally, brush over the sealer to work it into the pores of the driveway. Continue until entire driveway is coated.
- Do not overdo it. One coat is all that is needed to seal the driveway and reduce staining and water damage. A new blacktop driveway can last for several years without sealing. A coat every three years is usually an adequate maintenance schedule.
Remember, every project is different, so if you have questions about specific issues, consult a professional. More home maintenance information is available online at housemaster.com.
Quick Tips: Refresh Your Driveway
- Work in good weather.
- Wear appropriate clothing.
- Clean driveway thoroughly.
- Patch cracks first.
- Follow product instructions.
- Buy enough sealer to complete the job.
- Pour, spread, and brush sealer into grooves.
- Avoid sealing too often.
Buyers and would-be investors often look to foreclosure sales to find real estate bargains. But newcomers to this market could find some unpleasant surprises if they go in blind. All homes should be thoroughly inspected by a professional home inspector before sealing the deal.
Why inspect if you can’t negotiate? Foreclosure homes are usually “as-is” sales. This means that buyers cannot negotiate for the cost of needed repairs, as they may do in a traditional home purchase. Buyers must absorb repair costs themselves and consider this in their purchase offer at auction. So why get a professional inspection on a foreclosure property?
Too many foreclosure buyers think they’re getting a deal when, in fact, they might be purchasing a property with substantial and costly defects. The repair of these major issues could exceed the savings gained in buying a foreclosed property.
Sellers at foreclosure auctions are not usually obligated to disclose defects. But buyers can empower themselves by getting a professional property inspection before the auction that will provide valuable insights about the condition of the home. If pre-auction property inspections are not permitted at the foreclosure sale, buyers will need to weigh that risk carefully.
Knowledge is Power Even with a significant influx of newly foreclosed properties due to the sub prime mortgage mess, the foreclosure market can be competitive, and it is often dominated by experienced real estate investors. Armed with the right information you can make informed bids and find the best home at the best deal. After all, a bargain isn’t a bargain if it costs more than expected down the line.
Remember, buying foreclosed properties can be a risky business, so be certain to consult with needed professionals, including a reputable, certified home inspector, to address questions about specific issues. More homebuyer and home maintenance tips are available online at housemaster.com.
And, do you know that more than one time I have heard, "Well, it was like that when I bought the house." WOW! 
OK, the small hole at the breech here, between the two pipes is not that large. That would make it easy to miss, right? 
Well what about this one? Yes it was in working condition and it was heating the hot water. 
Well OK, the retort cement could have just dried out and cracked on this one. But don't people ever think to look at their heating systems at all? 
How on earth does a hole this size go un-noticed? It's the same chimney as the photo above. 
Just corroded, no need for concern, right? 
I spotted this one from the other side of the basement. 
I think I'll just put some tape over that little round flappy thing to keep it form opening and closing. 
Or, perhaps a couple of sheet metal screws would do a better job keeping that flappy thing closed. 
Another one with just a little evidence of a problem.
Hi-hat lighting fixtures should never be allowed to come in contact with fiberglass (or any other type) insulation because it is quite simply a fire hazard. Does the electrician who installs them not care? Does he not know any better? Was it done by a homeowner who is clueless? Probably a combination of all of these. But it really is hard to believe how often I see this in the attic. I would have to say about 75% of the time, and that is a conservative estimate. Now, many people will say that it doesn't result in a fire very often. Yes, this is quite true. But wouldn't it suck if your house was the one out of (who knows how many) that actually burned down as a result of this "totally preventable" mistake? I know I would be pretty upset if it was my house! And some of you may also say there is such a thing as a zero clearance hi-hat fixture. These can be installed in contact with the insulation. I say no! Why take the chance? What if somebody puts in a light bulb of the wrong type, or one with a very high wattage which causes overheating. I suggest that every home inspector who does not look for this, and/or does not include it in his report, is doing his client a real dis-service. He also may be opening himself up to a big lawsuit. So, let's be careful out there! 






 

Incredibly, this homeowner just cut a hole in the ceiling. He made no attempt to secure the joist ends, or frame out the area where the attic stairs were to be installed. This scared the hell out of me, I walked very carefully under the attic stairs every time I went down the hallway. The ceiling around the attic stairs was also sagging slightly. Wow, what a surprise!
My largest picture collection consists of electrical nightmares! It is simply UNBELIEVABLE what some people will do electrically in their homes. So many things I see are an accident waiting to happen. Here are just a sample of my 300-400 photos of electrical nightmares. I encourage you all to participate, post what ya got! Yes, it was live, protruding from behind the gutter!
Electrical splices should ALWAYS be done inside a closed junction box.
Putting a plug in this receptacle could be disastrous!
I see many receptacles painted, but most of them can still be used. By the way, painted receptacles should ALWAYS be replaced.
The weep holes in a brick facade are designed to allow water to drain in the event it gets behind the brick, not so u can run wires to the front yard.
I found this receptacle just "hanging around" the shed.
Extension cords AND adapters are intended for temporary use only. These look like they have been here forever.
I just cannot believe what I saw today. I inspected a split level home today on Long Island. The wall between the kitchen and the living room had been removed. The living room ceiling was vaulted, and the kitchen ceiling was flat. I suspected something funny because it appeared that the ceiling had been only patched where the wall was removed. Then I went into the attic space, and I could not believe what I saw! In the photo below, you can see the header. That header is supporting the ceiling where the dining room opens up into the living room. The end closest to you used to rest on the wall that was removed. Now it is being supported by the vertical 2 x 4's that you see. The top of each 2 x 4 is nailed to the ridge beam. But, that's not the worst of it. Closest to the right side of the picture, all of the ceiling joists in vaulted ceiling that used to be supported by the wall that was removed have also been individually suspended by 2 x 4's hanging from the ridge beam. There is no header supporting the rafter ends at all between the kitchen and the living room. To properly do this, we all know that the ceiling would have to be opened and the visible header would have to be replaced for the entire length where the dining room and kitchen ceilings meet the vaulted ceiling of the living room with a one piece header, beefy enough to support the weight of the roof and the ceiling joists. This may also include beefing up the jack studs at the two ends of the new header. Now here is the kicker... ...The seller is supposed to be a contractor! Every time I think I have seen it all... 

Nice job repointing this chimney. If this was done by a chimney professional he should have his license revoked, and he should be banned from ever using concrete again. I would not be at all surprised if this was done by the homeowner though. Also, note the condition of the roof shingles... ...OUCH. Believe it or not, I couldn't find evidence inside the house, or in the attic, of a single leak in the roof.
|
|
Jamie Schaefer
Rockville Centre, NY
More about me
Housemaster of Long Island
Office Phone: (800) 805-1122
Cell Phone: (516) 398-4525
Email Me
Anything at all to do with home inspections, or home inspectors, please contribute your comments. All opinions are welcome, even if they are not the same as mine...
Links
Archives
|