Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and moist air to the home's exterior. Typical systems consist of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates through the roof.

Fan Function

The fan may be controlled in one of several ways:

Most are controlled by a conventional wall switch.
A timer switch may be mounted on the wall.
A wall-mounted humidistat can be pre-set to turn the fan on and off based on different levels of relative humidity.

Newer fans may be very quiet but work just fine. Older fans may be very noisy or very quiet. If an older fan is quiet, it may not be working well. Inspectors can test for adequate fan airflow with a chemical smoke pencil or a powder puff bottle, but such tests exceed InterNACHI's Standards of Practice.

Bathroom ventilation fans should be inspected for dust buildup that can impede airflow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are attracted to the fan because of its static charge.

Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms. This includes bathrooms with windows, since windows will not be opened during the winter in cold climates.

Defects

The following conditions indicate insufficient bathroom ventilation:

Moisture stains on walls or ceilings.
Corrosion of metal.
Visible mold on walls or ceilings.
Peeling paint or wallpaper.
Frost on windows.
High levels of humidity.

The most common defect related to bathroom ventilation systems is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate to the home's exterior. The most common improper termination locations are:

Mid-level in the attic. These are easy to spot.
Beneath the insulation. You need to remember to look. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed.
Beneath attic vents. The duct must terminate to the home's exterior, not beneath it.

Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom; you have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes poorly-installed ducts will loosen over time or become disconnected at joints or connections.

Ducts which leak or terminate in attics can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moist air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation or other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health or wood decay problems from mold, or to damage materials such as drywall. Moisture also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Mold

Perhaps the most serious consequence of an improper ventilation setup is the potential accumulation of mold in attics or crawlspaces. Mold may appear as a fuzzy, thread-like, cobwebby fungus. Health problems caused by mold are related to high concentrations of spores in indoor air. "Spores" are like microscopic seeds, released by mold fungi when they reproduce. Every home has mold. Moisture levels of about 20% in porous materials will cause mold colonies to grow. Inhaling mold spores can cause health problems in those with asthma or allergies, and can cause serious or even fatal fungal infections in those with lung disease or compromised immune systems. Mold is sometimes difficult to identify visually and should be tested by a lab in order to be confidently labeled as such. Decay, which is rot, is also caused by fungi. Incipient (early) decay cannot be seen. By the time decay becomes visible; wood may have lost up to 50% of its strength.

In order to grow, mold fungi require that the following conditions are present:

Oxygen.
Temperatures between approximately 45° F and 85° F.
Food. This includes a wide variety of cellulose materials found in homes.
Moisture (typically humidity levels above 60%).

If insufficient levels of any of these requirements exist, all mold growth will stop and fungi will just go dormant. Most are difficult to actually kill.

Even though mold growth may take place in the attic, mold spores can be sucked into the living areas of a residence by low air pressure. Low air pressure is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms, dryers, kitchens and heating equipment.

Improper Ventilation

Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that stale air is properly exhausted.

Ventilation ducts must:

Terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope.
Contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry.
Be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder.
Be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts will encourage condensation.
Protrude at least several inches from the roof.
Be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements.
Be installed to manufacturer's recommendations.

The following tips are helpful although not required. Ventilation ducts should:

Be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop.

Have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to back-flow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces.

Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors into the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues.

Ah yes what to do with your furnaces condensate line? I see this all too often while doing inspections. In this photo we can clearly see what years of draining your condensate line into your crawlspace can do. I am sure the homeowners had no idea just how serious this situation was.

You guessed it. That is a gas line directly underneath where the condensate line has been draining for years. Needless to say as soon as I lifted my mask to get a whiff, I was out of there in seconds flat!

This is the second in a series that is focused on informing the home buying public about the real dangers that lurk out there in today's real estate market that most people are unaware of.

With thousands of foreclosed homes still on the market, real estate investors are snatching these homes up at record pace. The great majority of these foreclosed homes are in pretty rough condition and need a lot of work. That is why they are being sold for such little money. Most are in need of thousands and thousands of dollars worth of repairs. Truth be told, many of them should just be demolished. Real estate investors typically purchase these homes at rock bottom prices (many times sight unseen), rehab it and turn around and sell it for profit to you the homebuyer. So what exactly are you getting when you purchase a "flipped" home?  It is very important for you to remember that the entire purpose for investing in real estate is to make money. Investors typically are not concerned with the safety and well being of you and your family. They are most concerned with how much profit they can make on their investment. They will typically cut corners any way they can to make that profit, even if it is at your expense.

As a home inspector, I have inspected many homes that have been flipped by investors. There is a very common theme I see that plays out in almost every home that is being sold by an investor. Investors are very smart and know what the majority of people look for when purchasing a home. Fresh paint, new carpet, tile, countertops, cabinets and sometimes even appliances. Can you see the common denominator? If you guessed aesthetics, you are correct. It is very easy and relatively inexpensive to make a home "look good". Sadly most homebuyers write up an offer on a home based strictly off of their first impression of the home. That is where the common investor reels you in.

You have no doubt heard the expression "Lipstick on a pig". This is a very common phrase used in the real estate world, and for good reason. Most homebuyers spend approximately twenty minutes or so walking through a home prior to making an offer. At best, this provides a general impression of the overall cosmetic condition of the home. But what about the foundation, grading, electrical system, plumbing, heating and cooling systems, attic construction, insulation, ventilation, and roof conditions? Ah yes, the big ticket items that most people do not think about when walking into a home that has been flipped. The most common thought that occurs in most people is that the home looks so nice, everything must be new. Even real estate agents unknowingly add to this perception when writing up their description of the property in their listing. They will say something like "Simply gorgeous turn of the century home. Completely remodeled inside and out. Ready for you to move in and make your own. Everything is brand new. The only thing this home needs is you." That was taken from an actual listing here in town.  It is no wonder that you would naturally assume that the home is in perfect condition. Unfortunately, this is not the case with the vast majority of flipped homes. The reality here in Indiana is nothing like the house flipping shows you have seen on HGTV. Far from it. I will be perfectly honest in saying that I have yet to see an investor actually flip a home here in Indiana the way they do on HGTV.

While every homebuyer wants the home they are looking at purchasing to "look nice", it is far more important that the major systems and components of the home be in newer, good working condition. Most investors will not and do not pay any attention to these big ticket items, as they are the most expensive items to repair or replace in a home. They will always cosmetically improve the home and then stop. I have literally inspected hundreds of homes that were falling apart amidst the new carpet, tile and countertops, brand new light fixtures and ceiling fans installed on ceilings that were ready to collapse, freshly painted walls that were a feeble attempt to cover up moisture stains, mold and termite damage, brand new kitchen cabinets installed right over wet and moldy drywall, brand new carpet and tile installed right over rotting subflooring. The list goes on and on.

What are some of the things you should you really be looking for when searching for a potential home? Very simple, do not concern yourself with walls that need paint or flooring that is out of date or stained. Cosmetic items should be the least of your worries. Look instead to the big ticket items. Ideally the furnace and A/C unit should be less than 10 years old. The water heater should be new to no more than 5 years old. The roof should be no more than 10 years old (this includes the gutters and downspouts). If the home has a crawlspace, it should be relatively clean. It should have proper ventilation, a vapor barrier and have no evidence of water intrusion. The supply plumbing should be all copper or PEX piping. The waste lines should be PVC or cast iron. The grading of the home should slope away from your foundation a minimum of 6 inches for the first 10 feet. The attic and basement should have proper ventilation to prevent high humidity levels which make for conditions conducive to mold growth. The electrical system should be 200 amp service to accommodate today's growing home electrical needs. These are just a few of the many considerations to take into account when looking at a potential home. It is important to keep in mind that cosmetic items such as carpet and paint cost only a fraction of what the major systems and components do.

So what can you do to protect yourself from purchasing a potential "flipped" money pit? The most important thing is to be realistic in your expectations when looking for a home. No matter what the description says or how cosmetically pleasing the home may appear, no home is perfect. The number one way to protect yourself is to hire a professional home inspector to inspect the property prior to closing. When making the initial offer on the home, make sure you add an inspection contingency in the agreement so that in the event that major deficiencies are found, you can turn and run. Do not assume for one second that just because everything looks good cosmetically that the home is in good condition and doesn't need to be inspected. Real estate Investors and sellers alike can be very clever in the ways they hide major flaws and deficiencies. Do not assume that everything you read on the sellers' disclosure list is gospel. It is a sad reality that people will do almost anything for the almighty dollar without conscious.  A home inspection is the #1 consumer protection service available. A $300.00 home inspection could save you literally thousands of dollars in the long run. I see it every day.

Be careful out there.

Here is the straight truth about Radon. The first in a series of what home owners and home buyers need to know, but don't.

No doubt if you have went to buy or sell a home, at some point the question of whether or not to have a Radon test done has come up. Below are some very interesting facts concerning Radon that the general public has probably never heard before. All information obtained came directly from EPA publications.

The EPA's 4 picocuries/cubic liter threshold is arbitrary. There have never been tests of the effects of varying amounts of radon in a residential home setting. The only tests to date have come from mine shafts in Pennsylvania where miners developed cancers, and where radon was among 25 or so radioactive elements present. The results of these findings were somehow extrapolated to homes. In other words, there has never been a single verifiable case where Radon in a residential home was linked to Cancer. Even the EPA has admitted it.

From a 1994 EPA report: "Facts Concerning Environmental Radon"

"To date the EPA has had little success in stimulating home owners to measure levels in their homes which would be the first step in the process of deciding on a course of action if a high radon level is found. This is partly because it is difficult to get people concerned that their home, a place that one looks to for security, is a potential source of hidden danger. Also, it has not yet been possible to generate convincing data on increased risk at or below 4-8 pCi/liter"

In the EPA's own words there has been no evidence of increased risk in the 4-8 range. Yet the EPA recommends remediation on any reading above 4pCi. In short, Radon mitagators charge homeowners $800 to $2000 setting up vent systems in their home for this number that appears to have been pulled out of thin air.

Finally, two most widespread claims about radon all come from one source, the EPA:

1) Radon is the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the United States.
2) 21,000 people die of lung cancer each year due to radon.

The concern here is that these two statements, long considered gospel, fail to separate smokers' vs. non smokers. Furthermore, the numbers used are on the high end of the actual findings which said 3,000 to 32,000. Therefore in my opinion it is impossible to make either claim above. There is absolutely no way to tell whether Radon or smoking caused cancer in the above claims.

Below is the sole source for these two claims which have been repeated thousands of times, so much, in fact, that they are considered gospel in the Real Estate industry. It is directly taken from the public summary of the EPA report, "Biological Effects of Ionizing Radiation".

Note: "ever smokers" is defined as anyone who is smoking or has ever smoked.

"The BEIR VI committee's preferred central estimates are that about 1 in 10 of all lung cancer deaths amounting to 15,400 to 21,800 per year in the United States can be attributed to radon among ever-smokers and never-smokers together. The number of radon related lung cancer deaths resulting from (our analysis) could be as low as 3000 or as high as 32,000. Most of the radon-related lung cancers occur among ever-smokers, and because of the synergism between smoking and radon, many of the cancers in ever-smokers could be prevented by either tobacco control or reduction of radon exposure."

So...."15,400 to 21,800 per year in the United States can be attributed to Radon among ever-smokers and never-smokers together". So how could they possibly conclude that "21,000 people die in America from Radon each year?

Furthermore, if Radon truly was the second leading cause of Cancer in the United States, why then are there no public service announcements on television, radio, billboards, local news etc. like there is for smoking cigarettes? The ONLY time you ever hear about Radon is during the home buying process. There is nothing outside the realm of Real Estate that alerts the public to this "so called" danger.

Is Radon real? Absolutely. Does it pose a potential hazard to you or your family? You decide.

I receive a lot of emails and phone calls asking me the secret to my success in such a relatively short amount of time. While I am flattered to actually be recognized as being successful, it gets to be a somewhat daunting task of answering all of the emails and voice mails I receive. I decided to write this blog to give some tips and pointers to those who are interested in entering the home inspection field. While I will not divulge all of my secrets entirely, I will spell out in detail how to get started and some of the ideas that have worked well for me personally. Please keep in mind that home inspections are area specific and what might work in one part of the country may not work so well in other parts. Also please realize that the following is solely based on my opinion and experience in the home inspection field.

First off I will say upfront, that if you are thinking that home inspections are an easy way to make money, you really should give it some more thought. While you can make good money by becoming a home inspector, the task is not an easy one by any stretch of the imagination. You should be prepared to work long, hard hours. 12-14 hours a day is not uncommon in this field. Dirty, wet and spider infested crawlspaces, 120 degree attics and many other assorted hazards are also a part of everyday life as a home inspector. It is not a profession for the faint of heart. Also you will need to remember that you are much more than just a home inspector. You are your own customer service representative, marketing representative, bookkeeper, webmaster, phone operator, educator etc. There are many things to consider prior to entering this field. Make sure you have the time, energy and willpower to accomplish the goals you set out to acheive. Okay, now let's get to the meat of how to become an inspector.

1) First and foremost you need to check with your states licensing agency to see if your state requires home inspectors to be licensed. Many states have adopted rules and regulations on becoming a home inspector and you need to be aware of what your state actually requires. While not every state requires licensing, we will assume that it will for the remainder of this blog.

2) All of your previous construction, building or engineering experience will help, but it will not give you a free ride to entering the home inspection business. You will need to become certified. In order to become certified in most states you are required to have a minimum of 60-90 hours of training by a qualified school. Some areas have local home inspection training in a classroom/field environment. There are also many reputable online courses you can take to become certified. Again you will need to do your homework in finding out if your city has a local school that offers home inspection training. If it does not, then I would suggest an online course such as PHII www.homeinspectioninstitute.com.

3) Once you have successfully passed all of your training and become certified, you will need to take the NHIE. National Home Inspector Exam. This is typically a 200 question exam that you will need to pass in order to become licensed. Information on where and when you can take this test can be found here http://www.homeinspectionexam.org/.

4) Once you have passed your training and the NHIE, the next step is obtaining insurance. In most states the minimum requirement is general liability insurance. You need to provide proof of insurance before you can obtain your state license. A typical liability policy should run you somewhere around 550.00 a year. While not required, it is a very smart idea to also obtain an E&O (Errors and omissions) policy as well as the general liability policy. The E&O will help protect you in the event that you miss something big during an inspection. It is a bit pricey, but well worth it in my opinion. It is a heck of a lot cheaper than if you didn't have it and you wind up getting sued for missing something that you should have found during an inspection. Be prepared to shell out somewhere around 2500.00 a year for a decent E&O policy.

5) Now you are certified, passed the NHIE and you are insured. You can now obtain your license. Here in Indiana for instance, the fee for obtaining a home inspector license is 400.00 every two years. You must provide the licensing agency with your school certification, the NHIE certification and your insurance binders. Pay the applicable fee and get your license.

6) Now you need to think about the tools you will need for your business. You just can't show up to your first inspection with a flashlight and a screwdriver and expect to be taken seriously. First you need a truck. Yes I said a truck. If you show up to your first inspection in a Hyundai Sonata with a ladder strapped to the roof, you will not likely be seen as being very professional. You need a truck and you need to keep it clean at all times. A professional appearance is everything in this business. Along with a clean vehicle, you also need to be wearing clean clothes. I know it sounds funny and cliché, but imagine how you would feel being the client and your inspector shows up in a rusted out old beat up pick up and he climbs out of it wearing dirty raggedy clothes. It is a good idea to have some "work shirts" made up with your business name and slogan on them. I personally recommend www.universityfashions.com . Now I am not saying that you should wear a suit and tie to your inspections. You can however look very professional in some clean jeans, work boots and a polo shirt with your business name on them. Some home inspectors will wear khakis and polo shirt, but trust me, jeans are fine, especially when you are crawling around on your hands and knees in a 12 inch crawlspace all day.

7) Next you need to think about the basic tools you will need. The obvious things that come to mind are a ladder (6 foot step ladder as well as an extension ladder), flashlights (you can never have too many of these. I highly recommend the LED flashlights), assortment of screwdrivers, a small ratchet socket set, moisture meter, receptacle and GFCI tester, fire stick, respirator, and a digital camera. These things will at least get you started. You will most likely pick up many more tools the longer you are in business.

8) You also need to think about a logo design for your business. There are many places to have a logo design custom made. You will need to do your homework in locating the right one at the right price for you.

9) Next comes the promotional material. Business cards, flyers, brochures, pens, magnets etc. I highly recommend www.vistaprint.com for all of your promotional needs.

10) Now you need to think about what kind of reporting software you are going to use. Back in the stone age inspectors used to use 3 piece carbon paper and had hand written reports. These days that kind of reporting just will not fly. Real estate agents and buyers alike will want and expect to receive your reports electronically via email. This means you will need reporting software that you can easily transfer to a PDF file. There are many inspection software programs available. My advice is not to be taken in by all of the claims these manufacturers make. Many of them all do pretty much the same thing. You can expect to pay anywhere from 200.00 upwards to 1000.00 for some of this software. Personally I use PI reports www.bestvaluereports.com. Believe it or not it is only 50.00 and is so easy to use, it is ridiculous. It is also the easiest report in the industry for your client to understand. It has no confusing legends or acronyms built in that so many of the other much higher priced software use. I have literally received hundreds of compliments on my report, why? Because anyone can look at it and understand it. Your client will appreciate it, I promise.

Okay so now you are certified, licensed and insured, you have the truck, the clothes, the tools and the reporting software. Now you can begin doing home inspections. But where is your business going to come from? Obviously you can't just sit at home and expect your phone to start ringing with inspection calls, so what do you do? For years and years since Moses was a child, home inspectors have been under the impression that the only way to get business is by wooing real estate agents. Travelling from office to office passing out business cards and flyers, trying to convince the agents that they are the best home inspector on the face of the planet, some inspectors will even bring in lunch and little Hershey kisses trying to butter up the real estate agents in the hopes that they will get a referral or better yet, the grand prize of them all, by getting on one the real estate agents "preferred list of home inspectors" that they hand out to their clients. I am here to tell you right now that you do not need to do this.  I am living proof that you do not need to compromise your integrity by succumbing to this pre-historic way of marketing yourself. Not to mention the incredible waste of precious time, money and energy involved in doing this. I talk to agents all the time concerning this subject and the response I get from them is almost unanimous. It honestly makes most agents sick to their stomach watching these grown men grovel, beg and suck up to them by using childish bribes like candy or lunch in hopes of receiving a referral. Not to mention the serious conflict of interest it poses. Nope, this business is just like any other business. You have to pay your dues the old fashioned way. HARD WORK.

I am giving you the straightforward truth here in saying that there are not too many real estate agents in this country that will take a chance on a brand new inspector, it just doesn't happen that way. You can bribe them all you want, it will do you no good. Most agents (unless they are new also) have been using the same old inspector for years and simply will not jeopardize any of their deals by trying out a new inspector. Get VERY used to that idea while in your first year of business. It will make you absolutely livid that no one will try you out. After all, you worked so hard to get this far, you have the ability, knowledge and tools needed to perform, but no one will even give you the time of day. So what do you do?

When first starting out, try marketing yourself directly to the consumer instead. Bypass the real estate agents all together and go directly to the home buyer. You will save yourself a great deal of grief and blood pressure medicine by not playing the ancient "suck up" game. So how do you market directly to the consumer? Without question your number one source to reach the consumer is the Internet. 87% of all home buyers look to the internet first when selecting an agent and or inspector. Place all that precious time you would be wasting in driving from office to office into building yourself a website. I recommend www.godaddy.com. I pay only 100.00 a year for a 10 page website and created it myself. You really do not need as much technical training as you might think. Go daddy makes it very easy for anyone to create a website. Your website is your meal ticket, I promise. Learn as much as you can about building and optimizing your website in your first year. Your second year will be well worth it. Also take advantage of all of the free classified advertising on the Internet. Places like Active rain, Craigslist, Kijiji, Topix and Olx are excellent mediums to get your business and website established. My website was only up for a week before the calls started coming in. Like it or not, the Internet is where it's at, and if you are going to succeed in starting any business, you need to have a solid Internet presence. I also recommend becoming a member of the Better Business Bureau as soon as you can join (typically 6 months to a year of being in business) as well as your local Chamber of Commerce. Both of these organizations are well known to everyone and will provide you with many networking opportunities with real people in the communities they serve.

Another thing to consider is how much you are going to charge for your services. Make sure that you have a set fee structure for all of your services before the phone starts ringing. When I first started out, I went to every home inspection company in Indianapolis and found out how much they charged. I wrote everything down, studied and studied and then placed myself strategically smack dab in the middle of all of them. You do not want to be the lowest priced inspector on the block, nor do you want to be the highest priced. Too low and they will wonder why? Too high and they will think you are just out to rip them off. Other inspectors hate to hear me say this, but like it or not it is a fact. If you want to put food on your table, you need to price yourself according to your competition and not by how good you think you are.

Now it is really all up to you. You control your own destiny. Obviously all of the above fore mentioned will do you no good if you do not do a good job. You need to be a people person (whether you really are or not), you need to be professional, in your speaking, report writing and your actions. Be honest and straightforward with your findings during an inspection. (Do NOT be afraid that if you call something out that the agent involved will never use you again). Most importantly you need to be thorough. If it takes you 5 hours to do an inspection, let it take you 5 hours. Customers like and appreciate thoroughness. Customers also like conversation. Ask them about their kids, jobs etc. Take a genuine interest in your client. After all, they are paying you good money to inspect their future home. That's a pretty big deal in most people's book. Inspect their home as if you were inspecting it for yourself or a family member. You will notice over time that by doing so will pay big dividends in the end. You will start noticing that you will be getting referrals to your past clients family members, friends and coworkers who are buying a home. You will even start noticing a few calls from real estate agents who have heard about your work from your client and are impressed with your personable, professional and thorough self. It will take some time before this happens however. Be realistic in your expectations. When you first start out, do not expect to get 5 inspections a week. You will be lucky to get that in your first month. It is a very slow process, like starting any other business. It takes lots of patience, common sense and hard work. You have to beat out your competition by providing superior work and customer service. You have to give people something that they are not used to or do not expect from a home inspector. Word will spread like wildfire after your first year in business and if you do it right, and handle yourself right, you will be a successful home inspector. Good luck.

Ah yes winter, most people are out right now doing their last minute Christmas shopping, visiting relatives and going to holiday parties. This is the absolute PERFECT time to update your online profiles and classified ads. It is the BEST time to post a few blogs and add more content to your websites and optimize them for 2009!! 

Internet search engines never take a day off, but a lot of your competitors do. If you put the pedal to the metal right now, you will be one step ahead of everyone come January 1. I did the very same thing last year and had a record breaking January!!

The market may be slow right now, but that doesn't necessarily mean that you have to be too.

As we are approaching winter (which can be the most grueling season on your home, depending on where you live), take some time to do some preventative maintenance on your largest investment...your home. All too often as Inspectors, we see and inspect homes that have not been properly taken care of. If homeowners took more pride in ownership and performed some very minuscule preventative maintenance on their homes, it would make for a much more enjoyable trip to the closing table for all parties involved.

Below are just a few tips to prepare your home for the upcoming winter months.

It is also recommended that you receive a Home Maintenance Inspection every two years. For about the cost of a basic car tune-up, you can learn the condition of your home and possibly save thousands of dollars by staying on top of the basic maintenance that every home needs. You take care of yourself, your kids, your pets, and your car, Your home is no different. Doesn't it make sense to take care of one of the biggest investments you own?

After responding to a previous post on gas prices and their effect on our economy and businesses, I decided to do some researching for what is coming down the pipe in the next few years as far as more fuel efficient vehicles and other alternatives. I am guessing that the majority of Inspectors drive trucks of some sort. I personally drive an F150 4.6 Ex cab w/ ladder racks. I do know of a few Inspectors who have went to the more fuel efficient small foreign cars and are somehow able to shove all of their equipment into the back. Personally that is just not an option. I am a truck man, and will always be a truck man.

So in my search, I found that Ford is rumored to be producing an F150 that is supposed to get 60 mpg by using hydraulic energy as a gas saving solution. However, Ford is not confirming this and as of right now it is only a rumor. Knowing the giant American companies, they will eventually come out with this but it will probably take them 5-10 years to do so. 

I continued on my quest and lo and behold, I actually found an electric truck made right here in the good ol USA (Ontario, CA.) that will be available to the public in 2010. A bit pricey at 45,000 and the bed isn't as large as one would like, BUT it is a truck and it is total electric, 0-60 in less than 10 seconds, top speed of 95mph, Plugs into a regular 220 receptacle, and goes on a charge for over 100 miles!! Supposedly when it hits the consumer market in 2010, it will have two batteries that will allow it to go 300 miles on one charge. On top of those things, it's also a cool looking little truck. Not like some of the other funky looking electric cars and trucks out there with three wheels. I went ahead and put in my reservation for one when these become available, and in the event that Ford continues to sit on their hands.

For anyone else who might be interested, check out the Phoenix SUT and the company at http://www.phoenixmotorcars.com/index.php. They are currently taking reservations for the 2010 model. I talked to them a couple of days ago, and they told me the waiting list is already nearing a year, and is growing everyday!

All I can say is, It's about time!!

The 2010 Phoenix SUT

Hey everyone, The 13th annual Inspection Expo 2008 - Changing Course in Changing Times, will be held October 20-22, 2008 at the Rio All-Suites Resort and Casino in Las Vegas, NV. Early bird registration going on now (save 200.00). The Rio is also providing attendees a special room rate of 139.00 per night. If you want to stay longer, they are honoring that price up to 3 days before and 3 days after the convention. My wife and I are making an 8 day vacation out of it. Best of all, the majority of it is tax deductible.

What better place to gain more knowledge, obtain CE credits and have a great time. I just signed up today.

For more information visit http://www.home-inspect.com/expo/