It's true... just 12 months of timely payments, will guarantee you a low faxed rate mortgage... and yes, you don't need a Fico® Score to get it. I don't care if your credit scores are in the 400's you can get approved.
Let me tell you something. Lenders, Brokers, Bankers or any Lending institute out there "Love" people with bad credit.
Look... they charge you a slightly low introductory adjustable rate, which jumps up 2 to 3 points after their fixed period. They charge these pre-payment penalties that makes them hundred's of thousand's of dollars. They do this just to deter you from refinancing till after their introductory rate moves up. Hey... they make great money off you. They have an old saying, once a sub-prime borrower... always a sub-prime borrower. I think they are full of crap... but who am I?
Please don't get me wrong, these loans help to a point. If you would need one be glad they are there. Some States will not allow them and those borrowers can't do anything about it. If the borrowers are in a bind, their homes equity is untouchable, due to predatory lending laws restricting these kinds of loans. For others though, these loans are the only way to get their finances back on track.
I know of a lot of Borrowers that were led to believe that these loans were their only option, because every Mortgage Company they worked with focused on nothing but "The Fico® Score."
Hopefully if you're reading this, you're going through a credit repair plan. I don't care if it's self-help, credit counseling, credit repair, credit restoration or bankruptcy. As long as you're in one of these programs and have been for the last 12 months or if you are just ending one, this program will help you.
If you're just starting a credit repair program, you're in luck. Your 12 month wait has started. As you know... the older you get, time flies. So before you know it, your credit will be back on track and this will work for you too.
Getting A Mortgage With Out A FICO® Score
People ask me all the time; how can I do loans without FICO scores? Well... this loan is not underwritten with a computer. It's funny, before there were computers people were getting loans, so what happened? Every company out there will deter you from even knowing about this loan... why you might ask? Because they have found ways to use computer programs which are a cheaper to run than employing an underwriter. Or they don't really know what they are doing.
See... if you manually underwrite a loan the borrower becomes a person. Letters of explanation are read and documentation is underwritten by a real person. Remember a computer can't read a letter and doesn't care if there's an explanation or not. All it cares about is your FICO® Score. Hello... you're a real person, not just a number.
Look... unless you have a 780 plus FICO score, a decent job with good income and have a lot of money in the bank, you'll end up having to deal with a Loan Officer trying to sell you a sub-prime mortgage.
What Is A Sub-Prime Mortgage
It is any loan that is not backed buy Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac or HUD. A sub-prime mortgage is backed by money from non-traditional banks. They usually are two and three year fixed rate mortgages and come with pre-payment penalties.
Most people are pushed into these loans and find out later hat they have been deceived, and by the time they figure it out... it's too late. They were told to just keep your payment on time for one year and the Lender would refinance them into a better program. Then they call back after a year and hear; sorry your scores are still too low to get the lower fixed rate at this time, and or the Loan Officer you were working with is gone.
So What Kind Of Loan Can You Get With Out A FICO® Score?
Well it has a truly impressive array of extra benefits most loans don't offer. All designed for your convenience and security.
You can get a low 30 year fixed rate mortgage, and you don't have to worry about your credit score because it doesn't matter. You can get an even lower rate on a 1 year or 3 year adjustable rate mortgage that can be locked into a fixed rate anytime after your first 3 payments are made on time. This can help you qualify for a better home or save you money on a monthly basis. This is nice in the beginning in order to get your finances and a household budget in order. And best of all, with out having to re-qualify again, just make your mortgage payments on time and it's yours.
You get an Escrow Account at no additional charge. Your payment will include your property taxes and homeowners insurance on a monthly basis instead of paying it in one big lump sum 2 or 3 times a year. This is a great benefit to clients because they don't have to worry about sudden payments on these large bills.
The refinances are FREE. That's right, depending on the market; every three payments you make on time could help you qualify for a free rate reduction. And since there is "No Pre-Payment Penalty" on this loan, you'll keep saving money.
Here Are A Few Examples Of What Can Be Done With This Loan
Purchase A Home
You can purchase a home with as little as 3% down. This is one of the perfect loans for first time homebuyers or existing homeowners. With the market the way it is right now, you can even get the homeowner to cover your down payment, closing cost and escrow account through a grant.
It's true... you can get Free Down Payment grant money. Through a non-profit organization and with the homeowner's assistance, you can get a home with very little money out of your pocket. Typically just the appraisal, credit report and homeowners insurance are all you'll pay.
No gimmicks! No Hassles!
You can join the over 250,000 new homeowners who have used a grant from this non-profit organization to purchase the home of their dreams. There are no income or credit limitations, and this program is not limited to first time homebuyers. For more information on this service, email me at the address at the end of this book.
Refinance A Home
You can pay off a 1st and 2nd mortgage, up to 100% of the homes value. You will get a lower payment 99% of the time with this loan and you get to skip a payment for 30-days. This will help you get ahead of your payments. I recommend taking that payment and opening a bank account for your mortgage and depositing it there. Some Borrower's look at it as free money and Lenders will tell you that. Come on... it's your mortgage payment keep it that way. This way you're always a month a head. Make this a goal and keep adding to the account till you're 6-12 months ahead, just in case.
Cashing Out
You can take out 85% - 95% of the value of your home in cash for any reason. You can pay off bills, do home improvements, buy a car, obtain money for college, start a business. Any reason is a good reason. But, any amount above 85% will be credit graded over a 24 month period.
Payoff A Divorce Like A 2nd Mortgage
Most loans out there will limit the amount of cash you receive from the property. The more you borrow the more you pay through the nose because of the higher LTV (loan to value) risk grade. This means the more you borrow on your home vs. the value of the home is riskier to the Lender. With this loan the guidelines will allow the underwriters to look at a divorce settlement as a 2nd mortgage. So this will turn your loan into a rate and term and allow you to finance almost 100% of the homes value to pay off your divorce and still allow you to get a low fixed rate mortgage that's not based on a FICO® Score.
Past Bankruptcy Or Even If You're In A Bankruptcy You Can Be Approved! When In A Chapter 13 Bankruptcy
Most people think they can't do anything while they're in a bankruptcy, but the opposite applies. If they have paid on the bankruptcy for 12 months and their payments have been on time, they can get a pre-approval letter to give to their attorney. The attorney can then petition the court and their trustee on their behalf, to request the courts approval. Up to 99% of the time, in my experience the court has let the Borrower proceed with a loan if it is saving them money. If the bankruptcy is discharged and the payments were paid as agreed you should have no problem.
When Discharged Out Of A Chapter 7 Bankruptcy
After a chapter 7 bankruptcy most people don't think they are able to buy a home or even refinance a home without getting hit with a high interest rate. They think if they try to purchase a home they'll be stuck paying a big down payment after a Chapter 7 Bankruptcy. With this loan, the guidelines state as long as the bankruptcy has been discharged for at least 24 months but not less then 12 months, and with a very good reason such as a (death or loss of income), can attain this loan if all payments have paid as agreed since the discharge date. That means no more late payments, at all!
When In Credit Counseling
These days if you are with a credit management company, most lenders look at it as a form of bankruptcy. It's like a non-legal Chapter 13 Bankruptcy, where you pay someone to handle your bills for you. Most Lenders will want you to cancel your credit counseling plan. Others will turn you away. With this loan though... as long as the payments have been on time for the last 12 months, it will be looked at it as a form of good credit. Just make sure all your creditors are included in the plan before you approach the Lender.
If You Don't Believe Me, Here Are The Guidelines
"NO FICO® SCORE GUIDELINES"
Credit Score: No credit scores are needed, even a credit score under 500 will work!
Mortgage History: Even though a 12 month clean mortgage history goes a long way in the approval process, you can still be approved with no more then two; 30 day late payments on any mortgage(s) in the last twelve months, but the last 24 months will be considered also.
Rental History (or land contract): Even though a 12 month clean rent history goes a long way in the approval process, you can still be approved with no more then two; 30 day late payments on any rent payment in the last twelve months. If paid to a management company or apartment complex, a (VOR) verification of rent is acceptable. If rent is paid to an individual, they must provide 12 months canceled checks or money orders. Cash is not acceptable.
Installment Debt: No more then three; 30 day late payments in the last twelve months. If more than that, must have a documented extenuating circumstance to be considered.
Revolving Debt: Must be current (or paid in full) at closing. All delinquencies must have acceptable explanations.
Chapter 7 Bankruptcy: The bankruptcy must be discharged 24 months. Anything less must have documented extenuating circumstances, such as a death or loss of income. Nothing less than 12 months discharged will be considered and no late payments on anything will be excepted after the bankruptcy discharged date.
Chapter 13 Bankruptcy: The bankruptcy must include all creditors and have a minimum of 12 monthly payments paid into the planed pay out period with no late payments to the court. Being that the bankruptcy is not discharged, borrower must have permission from court to enter into a mortgage. This is a great way to secure a low rate while you're in bankruptcy.
Credit Counseling: Debt management is now looked at as a Chapter 13 Bankruptcy, so same guidelines apply; must have a 12-month payment history with no late payments. When qualifying for loan; credit counseling payment, not payments on credit report, should be used to calculate debt to income ratios.
Past Foreclosure: A foreclosure must be 3 years old with a sensible explanation. On a case by case basis; a 2 year old foreclosure can be considered but must have documented extenuating circumstances to be considered.
Repossession: The repossession must be more then 2 years old with strong explanation. Must be paid in full or have a written payment arrangement in place with 3 to 6 payments made on time.
Employment history: Need two full years of employment history. If borrower(s) are self-employed or a commissioned employees; there must be a two year history - no exceptions. Overtime can be considered if borrower(s) has received it for the past two years in the same line of work. All self-employed, commission, and overtime income will be averaged over the most recent 24 months. Part-time income will not be considered unless it's been there for the last 24 months.
Acceptable properties: 1-4 unit owner occupied properties only.
These Are Just Guidelines
These guidelines are just guidelines. They're a guide for underwriters to make the credit decision, they're not set in stone. Each Lender or Broker can be flexible one way or the other with them. I've seen the same loan be underwritten different ways by different underwriters. Some will close a blind eye to some stuff and others will nit-pick you to death. That's why it pays to shop.
Alternative Credit
Some of you may think you have no credit. Well, that is not necessarily the truth in most cases. You have alternative credit. And it can be used in substitution of traditional credit.
What Is Alternative Credit
It is any account where you have paid 12 or more on time monthly payments on. These accounts have to be verified by a business or company. If they can't you would need with no exceptions, 12 months canceled checks or money orders to prove the payments have been made on time. Below is a list of what are considered alternative credit sources:
· Rent Payments
· Land Contract Payments
· Utility Companies, such as: (Gas, Water, Electric, Phone, Cable or Satellite Dish.)
• Car Insurance
You will need three of these accounts with one being (RENT) unless the underwriters make an exception.
If you need to use one of these alternative sources and it is a company you will be asked to get a credit reference letter on their businesses letter head stating you have been on time for the last 12 months.
Again, any alternative credit can be used if it can be verified by a credit report; credit reference letter or 12 months canceled checks or money orders.
What You Have Been Reading About Is Simply An FHA Loan.
Since 1934, FHA has been helping people just like you become homeowners. FHA has also been helping people refinance their loans for better rates and terms. You can get an FHA mortgage with little money down, lower fees and easier qualifying requirements. You don't need perfect credit to get approved.
Take A Closer Look At FHA
There exists to this day the misconception that FHA is a low-income program. This is not an accurate statement. FHA has no income limitations, and gives mortgage insurance to loans regardless of the amount of income. It is designed more to help those that don't want to put a lot of money down or need to have a lower down payment to get the house they want. This allows borrowers to maximize their equity when it comes to refinancing with less than perfect credit. All other loans are based on your FICO® Score.
Looking For The Best Mortgage
Shopping around for a home loan or mortgage will help you to get the best financing deal. A mortgage whether it's a home purchase, a refinancing, or a home equity loan is a product, just like a car, so the price and terms may be negotiable. You'll want to compare all the costs involved in obtaining a mortgage. Shopping, comparing, and negotiating may save you thousands of dollars.
Obtain Information From Several Lenders Or Brokers
Home loans are available from several types of Lenders:
· Thrift Institutions
· Commercial Banks
· Mortgage Companies
· Credit Unions
· Mortgage Brokers
· Mortgage Lenders
· Bank
Different Lenders may quote you different prices, so you should contact several Lenders to make sure you're getting the best price. You can also get a home loan through a Mortgage Broker.
Brokers arrange transactions rather than lending money directly; in other words, they find a Lender for you. A Broker's access to several lenders can mean a wider selection of loan products and terms from which you can choose. Brokers will generally contact several Lenders regarding your application, but they are not obligated to find the best deal for you unless they have contracted with you to act as your agent.
Consequently, you should consider contacting more than one Broker, just as you should with Banks or Thrift Institutions.
Whether you are dealing with a Lender or a Broker may not always be clear. Some financial institutions operate as both Lenders and Brokers. And most Brokers advertisements do not use the word "Broker." Therefore, be sure to ask whether a Broker is involved.
This information is important because Brokers are usually paid a fee for their services that may be separate from and in addition to the Lender's origination or other fees. A Broker's compensation may be in the form of "points" paid at closing or as an add-on to your loan.
I want you to understand something though. Lender's who says they lend their own money can broker your deal and can make backend (YSP) money on the deal and they don't have to disclose it to you at all... where the Broker does. I can argue this till I'm blue in the face but what it comes down to is a Good Faith Estimate from a Broker will show you how much money the Broker is making but you will never know with the Lender because they don't have to disclose it.
What's Backend Money OR (YSP) Yield Spread Premium
(YSP) is money paid to the Lender or Broker based on the interest rate they sell to the Borrower. The higher the rate they sell, the more money they make. Take a look at these rates based on a 21 day lock:
Conventional 30-Yr Fixed
| Note Rate | 21 Day |
| 5.500% | 2.750% |
| 5.625% | 2.125% |
| 5.750% | 1.500% |
| 5.875% | 1.000% |
| 6.000% | 0.500% |
| 6.125% | 0.000% (PAR) |
| 6.250% | -0.500% |
| 6.375% | -0.875% |
| 6.500% | -1.125% |
| 6.625% | -1.625% |
| 6.750% | -2.000% |
| 6.875% | -2.250% |
Based on this chart, 6.125% is a par rate. That means that neither the Lender nor Broker is making (YSP) money on you.
I have always priced my loans to make around 3 points. Either I get them on the front where I charge origination points or back where I collect a (YSP). Here are some examples:
You call up and ask for a 5.875% rate. I would quote you 4 points. The 3 points I'd make and the 1 point it costs to get that rate.
You ask for a 6.125%, I'd say 3 points. I don't make anything on the back so I have to charge up front.
You ask for 6.250%, I'd say 2.5 points. Here I'm making .50 in (YSP).
If you called me and asked for a no point rate, I'd quote you 6.875% with a .75 of a point charge. And tell you that, this is the closest rate I could get to a no point rate. That would make me -2.25 (YSP) on the loan. So if the loan amount is $100,000.00 and 1 point equals $1000.00 (1% of $100,000.00) I'd make -2.250% or $2250.00 on the close of that loan, and the .75 point or $750.00 I charged you upfront for a total of $3000.00. This is an average spread a Lender will make on a loan.
Now I don't nor does a Loan Officer receive all that money, unless they run or own the company. Most Loan Officers (like me) are paid a commission. As a Loan Officer we would get 25% to say 50% or more commission depending on how the loan was brought to the company.
If the company paid advertising money to generate that loan they would want to make more money on that loan. If on the other hand I, arranged the loan on my own and without the companies help they would pay me more.
This is probably confusing, I understand. My point here is to show you that no matter where you go, whoever you pick, all the answers will be different. Every Loan Officer makes the most they can possibly, some more than others.
So if I was a Broker and quoted you a rate of 6.875% and was making -2.25% (YSP) and I charged you 2 points upfront, you'd see that money I was making on your Good Faith Estimate at the time of application and HUD 1 Settlement Statement at time of close, were if I was a Lender you'd only see the 2 points I was charging upfront.
I know this is going to anger all the Lenders and Brokers out there that I told you this, but so what. You need to know what you're dealing with in this business world.
Obtain All Important Cost Information
Be sure to obtain information about mortgages from several Lenders or Brokers. Know how much of a down payment you can afford, or the maximum loan to value (LTV) they will go up to based on your credit. You must find out all the costs involved in the loan upfront. Knowing just the amount of the monthly payment or the interest rate is not enough. Ask for information about the same loan amount, loan term, and type of loan so that you can compare the information. The following information is important to get from each Lender and Broker:
Rates
• Ask each Lender and Broker for a list of its current mortgage interest rates and whether the rates being quoted are the lowest for that day or week.
• Ask whether the rate is fixed or adjustable. Keep in mind that when interest rates for adjustable-rate loans go up, generally so does the monthly payment.
• If the rate quoted is for an adjustable-rate loan, ask how your rate and loan payment will vary, including whether your loan payment will be reduced when rates go down.
• Ask about the loan's annual percentage rate (APR). The APR takes into account not only the interest rate but also points, Broker fees, and certain other credit charges that you may be required to pay, expressed as a yearly rate.
Points
• Points are fees paid to the lender or Broker for the loan and are often linked to the interest rate; usually the more points you pay, the lower the rate.
• Check your local newspaper for information about rates and points currently being offered.
• Ask for points to be quoted to you as a dollar amount-rather than just as the number of points-so that you will actually know how much you will have to pay.
Fees
A home loan often involves many fees, such as loan origination or underwriting fees, broker fees, transaction, settlement, and closing costs. Every Lender or Broker should be able to give you an estimate of its fees.
Many of these fees are negotiable. Some fees are paid when you apply for a loan such as application and appraisal fees, and others are paid at closing. In some cases, you can borrow the money needed to pay these fees, but doing so will increase your loan amount and total costs. "No cost" loans are sometimes available, but they usually involve higher rates.
• Ask what each fee includes. Several items may be lumped into one fee.
• Ask for an explanation of any fee you do not understand.
Down Payments and Private Mortgage Insurance
At one time you could not buy a home without putting down 20 percent of the home's purchase price as a down payment. However, many lenders now offer loans that require less than 20 percent down, sometimes as little as 3 percent on conventional loans. This takes perfect credit and a lot of money though.
If a 20 percent down payment is not made, Lenders usually require the home buyer to purchase private mortgage insurance (PMI) to protect the Lender in case the home buyer fails to pay. For years (PMI) has not been tax deductible, but as of 2007 if your income is below $100,000.00 (PMI) is now tax deductible.
Check around when shopping around for a mortgage and make sure you know how much PMI you'll be paying. Figure you will pay .0078% at 5% down, .0052% at 10% down and .0032% at 15% down on the loan amount. Example: ($100,000.00 at 5% down and a loan amount of $95,000.00 x .0078% = $741.00 /12 months = $61.75 a month to your payment.)
If PMI is required for your loan ask what the total cost of the insurance will be. Ask how much your monthly payment will be when including the PMI premium. Ask how long you will be required to carry PMI. Most Lenders will drop it at the 78% mark of the original loan amount. You will still want to watch for it though, Lenders are busy and sometimes they may forget to remove it, so just make sure you stay on top of them.
When government assisted programs such as FHA (Federal Housing Administration), VA (Veterans Administration), or Rural Development Services are available, the down payment requirements may be substantially smaller.
• Ask about the Lender's requirements for a down payment, including what you need to do to verify that funds for your down payment are available.
• Ask your Lender about special programs they may offer.
If PMI Is Required For Your Loan
• Ask what the total cost of the insurance will be.
• Ask how much your monthly payment will be when including the PMI premium.
• Ask how long you will be required to carry PMI.
Obtain the Best Deal That You Can
Once you know what each lender has to offer, negotiate for the best deal that you can. On any given day, Lenders and Brokers may offer different prices for the same loan terms to different consumers, even if those consumers have the same loan qualifications.
The most likely reason for this difference in price is that Loan Officers and Brokers are often allowed to keep some or all of this difference as extra compensation. Generally, the difference between the lowest available price for a loan product and any higher price that the borrower agrees to pay is an overage.
When overages occur, they are built into the prices quoted to consumers. They can occur in both fixed and variable-rate loans and can be in the form of points, fees, or the interest rate. Whether quoted to you by a Loan Officer or a Broker, the price of any loan may contain overages.
Have the Lender or Broker write down all the costs associated with the loan. Then ask if the Lender or Broker will waive or reduce one or more of its fees or agree to a lower rate or fewer points. You'll want to make sure that the Lender or Broker is not agreeing to lower one fee while raising another or to lower the rate while raising points.
There's no harm in asking Lenders or Brokers if they can give better terms than the original ones they quoted or than those you have found elsewhere.
Once you are satisfied with the terms you have negotiated, you may want to obtain a written lock-in from the Lender or Broker. The lock-in should include the rate that you have agreed upon, the period the lock-in lasts, and the number of points to be paid.
A fee may be charged for locking in the loan rate. This fee may be refundable at closing. Lock-ins can protect you from rate increases while your loan is being processed; if rates fall, however, you could end up with a less favorable rate. Should that happen, try to negotiate a compromise with the Lender or Broker.
Remember... Shop, Compare, Negotiate
When buying a home, remember to shop around, to compare costs and terms, and to negotiate for the best deal. Your local newspaper and the Internet are good places to start shopping for a loan. You can usually find information both on interest rates and on points for several Lenders.
Since rates and points can change daily, you'll want to check your newspaper often when shopping for a home loan. But the newspaper does not list the fees, so be sure to ask the Lenders about them.
Just get the Good Faith Estimate from a couple Lenders. Don't be afraid to make Lenders and Brokers compete with each other for your business by letting them know that you are shopping for the best deal.
Fair Lending Is Required by Law
The Equal Credit Opportunity Act prohibits lenders from discriminating against credit applicants in any aspect of a credit transaction on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, marital status, age, whether all or part of the applicant's income comes from a public assistance program, or whether the applicant has in good faith exercised a right under the Consumer Credit Protection Act.
The Fair Housing Act prohibits discrimination in residential real estate transactions on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, handicap, familial status, or national origin.
Under these laws, a consumer cannot be refused a loan based on these characteristics nor be charged more for a loan or offered less favorable terms based on such characteristics.
Credit Problems
Still Shop, Compare, and Negotiate. Don't assume that minor credit problems or difficulties stemming from unique circumstances, such as illness or temporary loss of income, will limit your loan choices to only high-cost lenders.
If your credit report contains negative information that is accurate, but there are good reasons for trusting you to repay a loan, be sure to explain your situation to the Lender or Broker.
If your credit problems cannot be explained, you will probably have to pay more than borrowers who have good credit histories. But don't assume that the only way to get credit is to pay a high price.
Ask how your past credit history affects the price of your loan and what you would need to do to get a better price. Take the time to shop around and negotiate the best deal that you can.
Credit Reports
Whether you have credit problems or not, it's a good idea to review your credit report for accuracy and completeness before you apply for a loan. To order a copy of your credit report, contact:
• Equifax: (800) 685-1111
• TransUnion: (800) 916-8800
• Experian: (800) 682-7654
If you haven't been denied credit you can receive a free credit report by going to www.annualcreditreport.com. Every American consumer is entitled to one credit report a year. This report will not have your credit scores on it though. For a credit scores you must pay extra.
Glossary
Adjustable-Rate Loans (ARM)
Also known as variable-rate loans, usually offer a lower initial interest rate than fixed-rate loans. The interest rate fluctuates over the life of the loan based on market conditions, but the loan agreement generally sets maximum and minimum rates. When interest rates rise, generally so do your loan payments; and when interest rates fall, your monthly payments may be lowered.
Annual percentage rate (APR)
(APR) is the cost of credit expressed as a yearly rate. The APR includes the interest rate, points, broker fees, and certain other credit charges that the borrower is required to pay.
Conventional Loans
Are mortgage loans other than those insured or guaranteed by a government agency such as the FHA (Federal Housing Administration), the VA (Veterans Administration), or the Rural Development Services (formerly know as Farmers Home Administration, or FmHA).
Escrow
Is the holding of money or documents by a neutral third party prior to closing. It can also be an account held by the Lender (or servicer) into which a homeowner pays money for taxes and insurance.
Fixed-Rate Loans
Generally have repayment terms of 15, 20, or 30 years. Both the interest rate and the monthly payments (for principal and interest) stay the same during the life of the loan.
Interest Rate
Is the cost of borrowing money expressed as a percentage rate. Interest rates can change because of market conditions. Most of the rates move with the 10-yr bond. If the bond is up, so are the rates and when down, rates follow.
Loan Origination Fee
Origination fee or points as everyone calls them are a fee charged by the Lender or broker for processing and making money on the loan and are often expressed as a percentage of the loan amount. 1 point equals 1% of the loan amount. So 1 point on a $100,000.00 is $1000.00 ($100,000.00 x 1% = $1000.00)
Lock-In
Refers to a written agreement guaranteeing a home buyer or homeowner a specific interest rate on a home loan provided that the loan is closed within a certain period of time, such as 60 or 90 days. Often the agreement also specifies the number of points to be paid at closing.
Mortgage
A document signed by a borrower when a home loan is made that gives the lender a right to take possession of the property if the borrower fails to pay off on the loan.
Overages are the difference between the lowest available price and any higher price that the home buyer agrees to pay for the loan. Loan officers and brokers are often allowed to keep some or all of this difference as extra compensation.
Points
Are fees paid to the Lender for the loan. One point equals 1 percent of the loan amount. Points are usually paid in cash at closing. In some cases, the money needed to pay points can be borrowed, but doing so will increase the loan amount and the total costs.
Private Mortgage Insurance
(PMI) protects the lender against a loss if a borrower defaults on the loan. It is usually required for loans in which the down payment is less than 20 percent of the sales price or, in a refinancing, when the amount financed is greater than 80 percent of the appraised value.
Transaction, settlement, or closing costs may include application fees; title examination, abstract of title, title insurance, and property survey fees; fees for preparing deeds, mortgages, and settlement documents; attorneys' fees; recording fees; and notary, appraisal, and credit report fees. Under the Real Estate Settlement Procedures Act, the borrower receives a Good Faith Estimate of closing costs at the time of application or within three days of application. The good faith estimate lists each expected cost either as an amount or a range.
My Final Note
As you can see there are a lot of fees and some of these probably don't seem real but they are. I just want to make sure you're fully equipped with all the questions to ask when shopping for a mortgage.
FHA is a great loan but there is one limitation, the loan amount. Go to: https://entp.hud.gov/idapp/html/hicostlook.cfm, then click on your State and then look for your County. There you will see the mortgage amount limits for your area.
Again, this is the only mortgage out there that does not require a FICO® Score. There are a lot of great loan programs but your credit score has to be in the 700's.
If you start asking these questions I outlined in this ebook when shopping for a mortgage, the Lender or Broker will know that they have an educated borrower on the line and will know they'll have to keep their quote on the up and up.
Most of all... just make sure you obtain it writing. If you have to, demand a good faith estimate. That way if the charges change at closing, you'll have something to fall back on. If they do... run!
Need a FHA Loan? Go to my website and fill out the mortgage application. http://www.creditrepairturbocredit.com/bad.credit.mortgage.html