Carlton Mitchell's Blog

Preventing and Controlling a Wet Basement

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Wed, 14 Dec 2011 09:22:18 -0800

Problems with a wet foundation tend to run higher than other physical problems with a house. Damp or wet basements can be an extremely challenging problem to fix. Most basements are built into or partially into the ground. This can lead to the walls and flooring absorbing the moisture from outside, ultimately producing such problems as: water stains, cracks, odors, mold infestation, house dust mites, and etc. When buying a house it is highly recommended to hire an inspector to assess the structure of the house and give you a list problems and potential fixes that they can see wrong before buying the property.

Potential Causes

Inadequate gutter system

Improper lawn grading or landscaping

Leaves or debris - may have clogged gutters or window wells

Windows and Doors – Check for leaks and gaps.

HVAC System – Check for proper drainage. One of the functions of a proper heating and air conditioning system is to reduce ambient air moisture level throughout the house.

Condensation – can be from hot and cold water pipes or outside moisture

Leaky Pipes – including ones that are behind the walls can be hard to detect.

Heavy Rainfall

Vents and Chimneys – These should have appropriate hoods and exhaust to the outside. They need to maintained or checked regularly so they are in constant working order.

Signs to look for:

Bad odor - excessive moisture creates and unmistakable musty smell.

Water Stains – from leaky pipes or cracks in the exterior walls

Cracks - in the foundation and in the exterior walls.

Windows and Doors – Check for leaks and gaps.

Mold- can range in color. Such as black, pink, brown, yellow, white. Even if the mold in your house is not the toxic variety

it is important to eradicate it and fix the source of the problem. Mold can cause deterioration of the house and can affect you and your loved ones health.

Efflorescence

Spalling

Leaks – can come in around windows and doors.

Simple Solutions

Dehumidifier- this is a good immediate and temporary fix for slight dampness.

Cover exposed earth areas with plastic sheeting to help keep the moisture levels down.

Make sure your downspouts are pointed away from the house

Clean and maintain your gutters on a regular basis

Add more ventilation – Opening windows and doors on nice days can help with letting moisture escape.

Professional Help

Insulation- Adding insulation behind the walls in your basement can reduce condensation by making cold surfaces slightly warmer

Sealing the ductwork – HV/AC systems can leak conditioned air wasting your money and can let moisture escape.

Making sure all holes and joints in the ductwork are sealed can help with this problem

Wrapping pipes – It is a good idea to have foam insulation covering the hot and cold water pipes to help reduce the condensation as well as conserve energy.

Waterproofing

Sump Pump – Install or maintain a sump pump. This device can pump water away from the foundation to the street up to 20 feet away

Replace windows and doors that are old or deteriorated that are not able to be water/moisture resistant anymore.

Gradation of the yard – make sure water runoff flows away from the foundation of your home.

Weather-Stripping – Old or improperly installed weather-stripping can let in moisture and leaks.

A home can be flooded for a variety of reasons. It is extremely important to act quickly and thoroughly if your home is flooded. Make sure you know where your shut off valves are. Make sure there are no exposed electrical wires or cords in the standing water. Immediately remove standing water and all damp materials. Hire a qualified inspector to inspect and assess the damage and help you prevent further damage and do necessary repairs. By addressing the problem quickly and appropriately you can greatly minimize further damage and future problems.

Important Home Inspection Tips To Consider

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Mon, 10 Oct 2011 08:07:09 -0700

If you are looking to buy a new home, but do not want to spend money on a home inspector because you prefer to do the inspection yourself, then it is important that you do the inspection correctly. In order to complete a proper inspection, it is important to consider the following home inspection tips. First of all, keep in mind that once you begin with the inspection, make sure to focus on every aspect of the home, both the interior and exterior of the property. The first of the home inspection tips that you should focus on is examining the exterior of the home. Once you begin inspecting the property, it is always a good idea to start from one point of the exterior, and then to gradually move in one direction around the home until you land the back at the same point once again. While you are doing this, begin your inspection by examining the top of the house, and then slowly working your way down bit by bit. By taking this approach, you will be creating an effective system that ensures that you do not miss out on anything.

Once you begin inspecting the interior of the house, you should take the same approach as you would when you were examining the exterior. This leads us to another one of the home inspection tips that you should focus on; do your best to focus on important factors such as structural damage, electrical system, the plumbing system, and the heating system. In the end, you want to make sure that the overall structure of the house is in sound condition, because this will be the most expensive to fix if you are caught off guard.

As you begin looking for these defects, keep in mind to focus on one room at a time, and then to gradually work your way around the whole house until you have looked at every room. Another important point to keep in mind when looking at home inspection tips is how you will go about recording any damages that you might have found. The best way is to draw up a checklist that allows you to easily cross a column or row for each aspect that you are looking into. By taking this approach, you will not have to do too much writing, and this in turn will ensure that you focus most of your attention on actually looking for damage than writing up a report. By taking this approach, you will find that you are less likely to make any mistakes as you go about inspecting your potential house, thus ensuring that when you do make payment, you can feel comfortable knowing that you have purchased the perfect home for you and your family.

Potomac Md Cumaru Deck Staining

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Wed, 21 Sep 2011 11:14:48 -0700

The home owner had the pressure treated decking and railing removed. The contractor install hardwood Cumaru. We stained the Cumaru with Cabot Timer Oil Natural and used a semi solid Cabot oil on the lattic. For Potomac deck refinishing, roof soft washing, and pressure washing call Carlton Cleans 301-906-4446.

New GSE's Quality/Condition Ratings

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Thu, 08 Sep 2011 12:15:21 -0700

Agents and home owners. Read the quality/condition ratings prior to an appraiser inspecting the property than gather all your documentation regarding home repair and upgrades. This information will help the appraiser to choose the most accurate rating.

AGENTS: You are a very important part of the new formatting. Appraiser's need more detail. For example, total basement sf, basement finished sf and basement rooms (this should be in every listing). Many agents simply are not taking the time to accurately complete the mls listing. Dates for repairs and upgrades and quality level of upgrades is important. Receipts are hopeful. Write a list of all repairs and upgrades with brand information ect........ Accurately provide basement info, provide accurate repair/upgrade information and provide prior sketches, plats ect..... to the appraiser. The better job agents do in the mls system than the appraisal industry can use the information to meet the GSE's new formatting regulations and use the information to support value opinion.

Condition

C1

The improvements have been very recently constructed and have not previously been occupied. The entire structure and all components are new and the dwelling features no physical depreciation.*

*Note: Newly constructed improvements that feature recycled materials and/or components can be considered new dwellings provided that the dwelling is placed on a 100% new foundation and the recycled materials and the recycled components have been rehabilitated/re-manufactured into like-new condition. Recently constructed improvements that have not been previously occupied are not considered “new” if they have any significant physical depreciation (i.e., newly constructed dwellings that have been vacant for an extended period of time without adequate maintenance or upkeep).

C2

The improvements feature no deferred maintenance, little or no physical depreciation, and require no repairs. Virtually all building components are new or have been recently repaired, refinished, or rehabilitated. All outdated components and finishes have been updated and/or replaced with components that meet current standards. Dwellings in this category either are almost new or have been recently completely renovated and are similar in condition to new construction.

C3

The improvements are well maintained and feature limited physical depreciation due to normal wear and tear. Some components, but not every major building component, may be updated or recently rehabilitated. The structure has been well maintained.

C4

The improvements feature some minor deferred maintenance and physical deterioration due to normal wear and tear. The dwelling has been adequately maintained and requires only minimal repairs to building components/mechanical systems and cosmetic repairs. All major building components have been adequately maintained and are functionally adequate.

C5

The improvements feature obvious deferred maintenance and are in need of some significant repairs. Some building components need repairs, rehabilitation, or updating. The functional utility and overall livability is somewhat diminished due to condition, but the dwelling remains useable and functional as a residence.

C6

The improvements have substantial damage or deferred maintenance with deficiencies or defects that are severe enough to affect the safety, soundness, or structural integrity of the improvements. The improvements are in need of substantial repairs and rehabilitation, including many or most major components.

Quality

Q1

Dwellings with this quality rating are usually unique structures that are individually designed by an architect for a specified user. Such residences typically are constructed from detailed architectural plans and specifications and feature an exceptionally high level of workmanship and exceptionally high-grade materials throughout the interior and exterior of the structure. The design features exceptionally high-quality exterior refinements and ornamentation, and exceptionally high-quality interior refinements. The workmanship, materials, and finishes throughout the dwelling are of exceptionally high quality.

Q2

Dwellings with this quality rating are often custom designed for construction on an individual property owner’s site. However, dwellings in this quality grade are also found in high-quality tract developments featuring residences constructed from individual plans or from highly modified or upgraded plans. The design features detailed, high-quality exterior ornamentation, high-quality interior refinements, and detail. The workmanship, materials, and finishes throughout the dwelling are generally of high or very high quality.

Q3

Dwellings with this quality rating are residences of higher quality built from individual or readily available designer plans in above-standard residential tract developments or on an individual property owner’s site. The design includes significant exterior ornamentation and interiors that are well finished. The workmanship exceeds acceptable standards and many materials and finishes throughout the dwelling have been upgraded from “stock” standards.

Q4

Dwellings with this quality rating meet or exceed the requirements of applicable building codes. Standard or modified standard building plans are utilized and the design includes adequate fenestration and some exterior ornamentation and interior refinements. Materials, workmanship, finish, and equipment are of stock or builder grade and may feature some upgrades.

Q5

Dwellings with this quality rating feature economy of construction and basic functionality as main considerations.
Such dwellings feature a plain design using readily available or basic floor plans featuring minimal fenestration and basic finishes with minimal exterior ornamentation and limited interior detail. These dwellings meet minimum
building codes and are constructed with inexpensive, stock materials with limited refinements and upgrades.

Q6

Dwellings with this quality rating are of basic quality and lower cost; some may not be suitable for year-round occupancy. Such dwellings are often built with simple plans or without plans, often utilizing the lowest quality building materials. Such dwellings are often built or expanded by persons who are professionally unskilled or possess only minimal construction skills. Electrical, plumbing, and other mechanical systems and equipment may be minimal or non-existent. Older dwellings may feature one or more substandard or non-conforming additions to the original structure.

Financial Reform: Appraisals can be Order by Loan Officers and Home Owners

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Thu, 08 Sep 2011 11:49:17 -0700

The GSE's implemented new formatting for real estate appraiser in Sept. 2011. The new formatting provides the ability of the GSE's to import the appraisal report into a computer model and run analytics on the information. The report can be compared to other reports in the market area to verify reasonableness of the adjustments and opinion of value based on the feature set and quality/condition ratings. This ability to review and quantify prior to loan funding has opened the appraisal ordering process back to traditional practice. Yes, the HVCC has expired and a loan officer/home owner can order an appraisal for purchase or refi. However, make sure you choose a lender who has updated their internal policies to reflect the GSE's policy change. This policy change back to traditional business practices with better over sight is a great move forward for the industry. Now it's up to the lenders to reinstate policies away from the appraisal management company model (shortest turn time and cheapest) to local experienced appraisers. Thorough analysis and investigation takes time and based on a small sample of review work I completed over the last two years some appraiser's are not taking the time to properly develop an appraisal report.

Carlton Mitchell

Certified Appraiser

www.appraisersoncall.com

301-906-4446

Preparing for a Home Appraisal

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Thu, 08 Sep 2011 11:17:10 -0700

If you are in the process of selling or re-financing your home, a home appraisal will in all likelihood be part of the process. In fact, in today’s real estate market, the home appraisal is often the make-or-break key to determining whether or not the deal can go through. Therefore, it is essential as a homeowner to do everything possible to maximize the value an appraiser will determine for your home. Though the lot size, square footage and building materials are the biggest determinant of the final value, the condition of the home will have a large impact on the figure that the appraiser determines.

When preparing for an appraisal it is best to take a systematic approach. Begin with the exterior. Inspect all of the windows on the home for missing or broken screens or shutters. If there is extensive grime on one or more walls of the house, a pressure-washing may be in order. Remove any trash and dead plant matter from the yard. Inspect the shrubbery around the house, trim any that is overgrown, and remove dead or dying plants. If the appraisal is in the summertime, regularly water the yard for at least two weeks before the appraisal to improve the quality of the lawn. Inspect doors and frames for chipped paint. If you only have time for one paint project, the front door and door frame are the most important.

As far as the interior goes, the first and most important requirement is for the home to be clean and tidy. In addition to standard cleaning items such as dishes, and vacuuming, homeowners should look to remove marks on walls, clean the areas around door handles, and make sure there are no cobwebs in the corners. The windows should be cleaned. Just as important is to tackle and remove house clutter. In addition to cleaning, be sure to handle any maintenance issues before the appraiser arrives. Replace burnt-out light bulbs, touch-up paint where necessary, and complete any outstanding home repairs.

In addition to making sure your home presents well, be prepared to share important information about how well you’ve maintained your home with your appraiser. Make a list of all of the home improvement projects you’ve done since moving into the home. They will have access to the last appraisal that was made of the home when you purchased it, and this will help the appraiser to know ways in which you’ve added value to the home. This could include major renovations to kitchens, bathrooms and basements, but also more minor improvements such as painting, window and door replacement, and landscaping.

Finally, be sure to be present in your home during the appraisal. This way you can answer any questions your appraiser may have, especially regarding improvements you’ve made to the home.

So You Want to do DIY Deck Cleaning? Part 2—Cleaning the Deck

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Thu, 08 Sep 2011 10:46:49 -0700

In the last article, we discussed how to select the proper equipment for a DIY deck cleaning project. In this article, we will address how to use the equipment properly to achieve your desired results without damaging your deck. Before beginning, be sure to remove all grills, furniture, planters and other items from your deck. Any grease spills from your grill should be pre-treated with a solution of dish soap.

Before applying cleanser to the deck, rinse the deck with water. This will aid the cleanser in spreading easily once it is applied. Then, use the scrub brush to apply cleanser to the deck. Most of the work of cleaning the deck will be done by the cleanser, not the pressure washer itself. Many cleaning solutions should not be allowed to dry on the wood, so be sure to closely follow the manufacturer’s instructions and periodically mist if necessary. Typically the manufacturer will recommend a soaking time of 20 minutes to enable the cleanser to adhere to the embedded dirt.

After waiting the recommended time for the cleanser to soak, it is time to rinse the deck. It is important to not let the cleanser soak too long, as this can cause damage to the wood. When first engaging the trigger of the pressure washer, point it away from the deck, people and other objects. If the sprayer is pointed directly at th e deck when first engaged, scarring on the deck surface can result.

Cleaning is typically started where the deck is adjacent to the house. Begin sweeping by starting from the edge, then sweep the sprayer out from the house and then back toward it, being careful to maintain a consistent distance between the nozzle tip and the deck to ensure an even result. A typical sweeping section might be about 3 feet wide. Once the first 3 foot section along the length of the house is completed, the next 3 foot strip can be begun.

A technique called “feathering” can be used to prevent lines from appearing between two sweeping sections. To do this, make sure the second sweep overlaps the first sweep, working with the grain or length of the board. An alternative to the sweeping technique is the long sweep, whereby you walk the entire length of a board, making sure to hold the nozzle at a consistent length from the surface. It will typically take a few sweeps to complete one board in this manner. After the whole deck has been washed, allow it to dry for 24 hours, and then re-inspect. Imperfections that were invisible when the deck is wet may appear, and it may be necessary to re-clean some areas.

Next Up: Part 3—Sanding and Sealing

Fatboy Bandit

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 15:10:51 -0700

Carlton Cleans is now using the Fatboy Bandit for both cleaner distribution and water rinse for every deck refinishing project. Our new system is an electric pump based system operating at 50 psi. but with 8 gallons a min of flow. This allows us to clean and rinse faster with minimum noise, no combustion fumes and best of all no high water pressure causing wood fiber damage. The best wood finishing processes due not need gas powered pressure washing equipment.

Armstrong Clark Super Cedar Stain in Potomac, MD

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Fri, 20 May 2011 21:50:57 -0700

The rain this spring has slowed deck staining in Potomac, MD. Carlton Cleans is cleaning as many decks as possible in preparation for dry weather. Here are some pictures of Potomac Deck Refinishing in process.

So You Want to do DIY Deck Cleaning?

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Fri, 20 May 2011 21:42:35 -0700

Part 1—Selecting the Equipment As a homeowner with a deck, you know that if you want to maintain your investment you will have to periodically clean and seal it. The only question is whether you choose to hire a professional or to do it on your own. In this series of articles, we’ll explain what you should know if you’re considering taking on the challenge yourself. The first decision to make is the type of pressure washer to use. The minimum power you’ll need to effectively clean the deck is 1500 PSI (pounds per square inch). Either a hot or cold water pressure washer may be used. Many contractors will recommend using a washer in the 2800 to 3200 PSI range, but with added pressure comes added potential for damaging the deck. If too much force is applied, it is possible to remove a considerable amount of wood from the surface of the deck, leaving behind a deep gash mark. So if you don’t have experience with the equipment a lower PSI setting is preferable. There are a range of nozzle tips available. The tips convert the stream of water into a fan shape that spreads the water (and pressure) out over a wider area. 0 degrees produces a tight, concentrated and highly pressurized stream that will damage wood and should never be used on a deck. 15 degrees produces a relatively tight fan for use in tough cleaning jobs. This size is frequently used by professionals, but may be too strong for an inexperienced user. A 40 to 60 degree tip will produce wider fans that work well for home users. The next thing to consider is which type of deck cleaner to select. There is a huge variety available to choose from, including detergents, bleaches and even chemical solutions which will perform specific reactions with different types of wood. Some are biodegradable, and will not damage the lawn or flowers around your deck. The cleaner you choose will be based on a variety of factors, including the type of material your deck is made of, the age of your deck, and the level of soil. As a DIY’er, you will need to carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions for a variety of cleaners before selecting the one that will best fit your needs. Finally, you need to choose the right brush. You will need a stiff bristle brush with a long handle. A synthetic brush is a better choice than natural bristle depending on the cleaning solution you choose, because many cleaners will deteriorate a natural bristle brush. Depending on the design of your deck, you may need more than one brush to adequately reach all surfaces. Next Up: Part 2–Cleaning the Deck

11 Keys to sucessfully Staining Exotic hardwood Decks

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Wed, 12 May 2010 14:01:41 -0700

Copyright (c) 2009 SaverSystems

Years ago it seems like every deck that was built was constructed out of good old CCA...pine wood treated with copper chromium arsenic, commonly referred to as pressure treated lumber. Because most of the decks were constructed out of the same type of lumber (CCA), the products that you used to stain them and the way you went about it were all pretty similar. But not today. Things have changed.

Over the past several years lumber yards have worked at carving out their own niches in the marketplace by introducing new species of woods to the market. Products such as Cypress and Mahogany and rainforest hardwoods such as Ipe and Pau-Lope. These products offer an unequaled level of beauty and uniqueness as well as hardness and durability that far exceeds that of conventional lumber. These characteristics can offer huge advantages to the homeowner. However they also present a variety of challenges when it comes to staining.

Typically these types of woods are very dense, making it difficult for stains to be absorbed. Additionally, they can contain a high amount of natural oils making them resistant to penetration. For these reasons, they need to be treated a little differently when staining. That's not to say that they can't be stained, they just need to be treated a little differently. Don't fret though. I've outlined a few basics for you. "11 Keys" as I like to refer to them, that when followed, will help ensure that your project looks like it was stained by a Pro!

1. Let the Wood Weather

As I said in the opening, exotic hardwoods are dense and they can contain a large amount of natural oils that will work to block any wood stain that you try to apply from penetrating. So let Mother Nature help you out. Once your deck has been built, allow nature's elements to help break down the surface of the wood and dry it out so that stains will be more easily absorbed. The sun, the wind and the rain can do wonders. The more the wood weathers, the easier it will be to stain it and the longer your staining job should last.

2. Start With a Stripper

Even if your wood is brand new and has never been stained, it is still a great idea to start your project off by applying a stain stripper, such as Defy Exterior Wood Stain Stripper. Stain strippers are formulated using sodium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is an aggressive chemical that can be very effective at breaking down the surface of the wood, opening up its pores and making it more absorbent. Remember, the more stain that you can get the wood to absorb, the longer your project is going last.

3. Don't Forget to Brighten

Yes, you have to brighten the deck too, even if you're working with brand new wood. I know it seems kind of funny, having to brighten new wood but the brightener will do a couple of things for you. First, it will neutralize the effects of the stripper that you used previously. You always have to use an acid brightener after using an alkaline stripper. Secondly, in a similar fashion to the stripper, the brightener will also help to open up the porosity of the wood even further. Again, the more stain that you can get the wood to absorb the longer your project will last.

4. Take a Good Long Break

Good news. You can take the rest of the day off. Take two if you like. The important thing now is to allow the wood to dry out from all of the cleaning you've just done. The drier the wood gets, the better it will absorb the stain. The more stain that you can get the wood to absorb the longer your project will last. So take a day or two off and let things dry off before you start to think about applying the stain.

5. Not Any Old Stain Will Work

Your next big decision is what stain to use. Don't screw up here. Not just any stain will do. Certain stains have been formulated for better penetration, making them ideal for hardwoods. Most manufacturers offer a product in this category. Defy Deck Stain for Hardwoods is extremely durable, water-based and Eco-friendly. It's both easy to use and easy on the environment. Whatever stain you select, make sure that you choose one that has been specifically formulated for use on exotic hardwoods and other difficult to penetrate lumber.

6. Ask for Directions

For the female audience, I'm confident that you'll get this next step correct. However, all you men out there, ASK FOR DIRECTIONS. Everything that you need to know about the product that you are going to use is on the back of the can. Take a few minutes before you start and read it. The directions will make you aware of any particulars to the product that can affect how the job turns out. What is the dry time, how many coats should you apply, how much time between coats, is there a critical recoat time? There can be any number of things that you can pick up by reading the back of the can. Take a minute and read the directions.

7. Brushing Is Critical

These next few keys are really important so please pay attention. First, regardless of how you apply the stain (e.g., rolling, spraying) it absolutely 100% must be brushed. If you roll it on first, simply back brush it in after it's rolled on but while it is still wet. The same goes for spraying. "Why must I go to all of that trouble?" you ask. When you brush the stain, the brush creates a friction on the surface, breaking the surface tension of the wood and working the stain in to the pores of the wood. You get a much better penetration of the stain. Remember, the more stain that you can get the wood to absorb, the longer your project will last.

8. Wipe Off Any Excess

Ok, this one might throw you a little, but again, it's important. If you apply too much stain to the wood (more stain than what the wood can absorb), wipe off the excess. We don't think twice about wiping off excess stain when we are staining interior wood. My advice is to do the same if you over-apply stain on exterior hardwoods. The reason is simple. First, for aesthetics. When you apply too much stain, it puddles on the surface and looks bad. Secondly, over time those spots are likely to flake and peel. So how much stain should you apply? Only as much as the wood can easily absorb.

9. Let It Cure

At this point the deck is done. If you've taken your time and followed these steps, you've got a great looking project going. Don't mess up now, let things dry. Leave the furniture in the yard and the dog in the house while the stain has a chance to cure out. Come back tomorrow and put things back together. You'll be glad that you waited a day to do it.

10. Manage Your Expectations

Now here's some advice that I hope you accept. Manage your expectations. Remember, you've selected an exotic wood for your deck, a beautiful grade of lumber with extreme durability. Regardless of how good of a job you did in every step of this process you will never get the stain to last as long as it would on a more porous species of wood, such as pressure treated pine. But also realize that every time you stain it you'll get a little longer life out of your project. Time will continue to help the wood become more porous and as it does, it will absorb stain better each time.

11. Keep An Eye On Things

Lastly, you've put in a great deal of time and energy to stain your deck the right way, so keep an eye on things. As time goes on and the stain begins to fade and wear down, apply a maintenance coat. Don't let things erode so far that you're forced to strip everything off and start all over. It's pretty easy and it doesn't take much time to simply rinse things off and apply a fresh coat of stain.

So that's it. That's everything. Eleven keys to successfully staining exotic hardwoods. Go ahead and try these eleven keys for yourself. See what the results are when you set out on your next project to do it like a pro. You might just surprise yourself!

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Dave Barnes - About the Author:

Dave Barnes is a 30-year veteran and nationally recognized product expert of the paint and coatings industry. He has worked in multiple capacities within the business, including having key responsibilities with both product formulations and field application design. He currently serves as Executive Vice-President for SaverSystems Inc., a manufacturer of water repellents for concrete, masonry and wood deck sealers.

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Roofing

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 07:51:11 -0800

Roofs play a key role in protecting building occupants and interiors from outside weather conditions, primarily moisture. The roof, insulation and ventilation must all work together to keep the building free of moisture. Roofs also provide protection from the sun. In fact, if designed correctly, roof overhangs can protect the building's exterior walls from moisture and sun. The concerns regarding moisture, standing water, durability and appearance are different, reflected in the choices of roofing materials. Maintaining Your Roof Homeowner maintenance includes cleaning the leaves and debris from the roof's valleys and gutters. Debris in the valleys can cause water to wick under the shingles and cause damage to the interior of the roof. Clogged rain gutters can cause water to flow back under the shingles on the eaves and cause damage, regardless of the roofing material. including composition shingle, wood shake, tile or metal. The best way to preserve your roof is to stay off it. Also, seasonal changes in the weather are usually the most destructive forces. A leaky roof can damage ceilings, walls and furnishings. To protect buildings and their contents from water damage, roofers repair and install roofs made of tar or asphalt and gravel; rubber or thermoplastic; metal; or shingles made of asphalt, slate, fiberglass, wood, tile, or other material. Roofers also may waterproof foundation walls and floors. There are two types of roofs: flat and pitched (sloped). Most commercial, industrial and apartment buildings have flat or slightly sloping roofs. Most houses have pitched roofs. Some roofers work on both types; others specialize. Most flat roofs are covered with several layers of materials. Roofers first put a layer of insulation on the roof deck. Over the insulation, they then spread a coat of molten bitumen, a tar-like substance. Next, they install partially overlapping layers of roofing felt, a fabric saturated in bitumen, over the surface. Roofers use a mop to spread hot bitumen over the surface and under the next layer. This seals the seams and makes the surface watertight. Roofers repeat these steps to build up the desired number of layers, called plies. The top layer either is glazed to make a smooth finish or has gravel embedded in the hot bitumen to create a rough surface. An increasing number of flat roofs are covered with a single-ply membrane of waterproof rubber or thermoplastic compounds. Roofers roll these sheets over the roof's insulation and seal the seams. Adhesive mechanical fasteners, or stone ballast hold the sheets in place. The building must be of sufficient strength to hold the ballast. Most residential roofs are covered with shingles. To apply shingles, roofers first lay, cut, and tack 3-foot strips of roofing felt lengthwise over the entire roof. Then, starting from the bottom edge, they staple or nail overlapping rows of shingles to the roof. Workers measure and cut the felt and shingles to fit intersecting roof surfaces and to fit around vent pipes and chimneys. Wherever two roof surfaces intersect, or where shingles reach a vent pipe or chimney, roofers cement or nail flashing strips of metal or shingle over the joints to make them watertight. Finally, roofers cover exposed nailheads with roofing cement or caulking to prevent water leakage. Roofers who use tile, metal shingles or shakes follow a similar process. Some roofers also water-proof and damp-proof masonry and concrete walls and floors. To prepare surfaces for waterproofing, they hammer and chisel away rough spots, or remove them with a rubbing brick, before applying a coat of liquid waterproofing compound. They also may paint or spray surfaces with a waterproofing material, or attach a waterproofing membrane to surfaces. When damp-proofing, they usually spray a bitumen-based coating on interior or exterior surfaces. A number of roofing materials are available...
Asphalt
Asphalt is the most commonly used roofing material. Asphalt products include shingles, roll-roofing, built-up roofing, and modified bitumen membranes. Asphalt shingles are typically the most common and economical choice for residential roofing. They come in a variety of colors, shapes and textures. There are four different types: strip, laminated, interlocking, and large individual shingles. Laminated shingles consist of more than one layer of tabs to provide extra thickness. Interlocking shingles are used to provide greater wind resistance. And large individual shingles generally come in rectangular and hexagonal shapes. Roll-roofing products are generally used in residential applications, mostly for underlayments and flashings. They come in four different types of material: smooth-surfaced, saturated felt, specialty-eaves flashings, and mineral-surfaced. Only mineral-surfaced is used alone as a primary roof covering for small buildings, such as sheds. Smooth-surfaced products are used primarily as flashing to seal the roof at intersections and protrusions, and for providing extra deck protection at the roof's eaves and valleys. Saturated felt is used as an underlayment between the roof deck and the roofing material. Specialty-eaves flashings are typically used in climates where ice dams and water backups are common. Built-up roofing (or BUR) is the most popular choice of roofing used on commercial, industrial and institutional buildings. BUR is used on flat and low-sloped roofs and consists of multiple layers of bitumen and ply sheets. Components of a BUR system include the roof deck, a vapor retarder, insulation, membrane, and surfacing material. A modified bitumen-membrane assembly consists of continuous plies of saturated felts, coated felts, fabrics or mats between which alternate layers of bitumen are applied, either surfaced or unsurfaced. Factory surfacing, if applied, includes mineral granules, slag, aluminum or copper. The bitumen determines the membrane's physical characteristics and provides primary waterproofing protection, while the reinforcement adds strength, puncture-resistance and overall system integrity. Metal

Most metal roofing products consist of steel or aluminum, although some consist of copper and other metals. Steel is invariably galvanized by the application of a zinc or a zinc-aluminum coating, which greatly reduces the rate of corrosion. Metal roofing is available as traditional seam and batten, tiles, shingles and shakes. Products also come in a variety of styles and colors. Metal roofs with solid sheathing control noise from rain, hail and bad weather just as well as any other roofing material. Metal roofing can also help eliminate ice damming at the eaves. And in wildfire-prone areas, metal roofing helps protect buildings from fire, should burning embers land on the roof. Metal roofing costs more than asphalt, but it typically lasts two to three times longer than asphalt and wood shingles.
Wood

Wood shakes offer a natural look with a lot of character. Because of variations in color, width, thickness, and cut of the wood, no two shake roofs will ever look the same. Wood offers some energy benefits, too. It helps to insulate the attic, and it allows the house to breathe, circulating air through the small openings under the felt rows on which wooden shingles are laid. A wood shake roof, however, demands proper maintenance and repair, or it will not last as long as other products. Mold, rot and insects can become a problem. The life-cycle cost of a shake roof may be high, and old shakes can't be recycled. Most wood shakes are unrated by fire safety codes. Many use wipe or spray-on fire retardants, which offer less protection and are only effective for a few years. Some pressure-treated shakes are impregnated with fire retardant and meet national fire safety standards. Installing wood shakes is more complicated than roofing with composite shingles, and the quality of the finished roof depends on the experience of the contractor, as well as the caliber of the shakes used. The best shakes come from the heartwood of large, old cedar trees, which are difficult to find. Some contractors maintain that shakes made from the outer wood of smaller cedars, the usual source today, are less uniform, more subject to twisting and warping, and don't last as long.

Concrete and Tile

Concrete tiles are made of extruded concrete that is colored. Traditional roofing tiles are made from clay. Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are durable, aesthetically appealing, and low in maintenance. They also provide energy savings and are environmentally friendly. Although material and installation costs are higher for concrete and clay tile roofs, when evaluated on a price-versus-performance basis, they may out-perform other roofing materials. Tile adorns the roofs of many historic buildings, as well as modern structures. In fact, because of its extreme durability, longevity and safety, roof tile is the most prevalent roofing material in the world. Tested over centuries, roof tile can successfully withstand the most extreme weather conditions including hail, high wind, earthquakes, scorching heat, and harsh freeze-thaw cycles. Concrete and clay roof tiles also have unconditional Class A fire ratings, which means that, when installed according to building code, roof tile is non-combustible and maintains that quality throughout its lifetime. In recent years, manufacturers have developed new water-shedding techniques and, for high-wind situations, new adhesives and mechanical fasteners. Because the ultimate longevity of a tile roof also depends on the quality of the sub-roof, roof tile manufacturers are also working to improve flashings and other aspects of the underlayment system. Under normal circumstances, properly installed tile roofs are virtually maintenance-free. Unlike other roofing materials, roof tiles actually become stronger over time. Because of roof tile's superior quality and minimal maintenance requirements, most roof tile manufacturers offer warranties that range from 50 years to the lifetime of the structure. Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are also energy-efficient, helping to maintain livable interior temperatures (in both cold and warm climates) at a lower cost than other roofing systems. Because of the thermal capacity of roof tiles and the ventilated air space that their placement on the roof surface creates, a tile roof can lower air-conditioning costs in hotter climates, and produce more constant temperatures in colder regions, which reduces potential ice accumulation. Tile roofing systems are made from naturally occurring materials and can be easily recycled into new tiles or other useful products. They are produced without the use of chemical preservatives, and do not deplete limited natural resources.

Single-Ply

Single-ply membranes are flexible sheets of compounded synthetic materials that are manufactured in a factory. There are three types of membranes: thermosets, thermoplastics, and modified bitumens. These materials provide strength, flexibility, and long-lasting durability. The advantages of pre-fabricated sheets are the consistency of the product quality, the versatility in their attachment methods, and, therefore, their broader applicability. They are inherently flexible, used in a variety of attachment systems, and compounded for long-lasting durability and watertight integrity for years of roof life. Thermoset membranes are compounded from rubber polymers. The most commonly used polymer is EPDM (often referred to as "rubber roofing"). Thermoset membranes make successful roofing materials because they can withstand the potentially damaging effects of sunlight and most common chemicals generally found on roofs. The easiest way to identify a thermoset membrane is by its seams, which require the use of adhesive, either liquid or tape, to form a watertight seal at the overlaps. Thermoplastic membranes are based on plastic polymers. The most common thermoplastic is PVC (polyvinyl chloride) which has been made flexible through the inclusion of certain ingredients called plasticizers. Thermoplastic membranes are identified by seams that are formed using either heat or chemical welding. These seams are as strong or stronger than the membrane itself. Most thermoplastic membranes are manufactured to include a reinforcement layer, usually polyester or fiberglass, which provides increased strength and dimensional stability. Modified bitumen membranes are hybrids that incorporate the high-tech formulation and pre-fabrication advantages of single-ply with some of the traditional installation techniques used in built-up roofing. These materials are factory-fabricated layers of asphalt, "modified" using a rubber or plastic ingredient for increased flexibility, and combined with reinforcement for added strength and stability. There are two primary modifiers used today: APP (atactic polypropylene) and SBS (styrene butadiene styrene). The type of modifier used may determine the method of sheet installation. Some are mopped down using hot asphalt, and some use torches to melt the asphalt so that it flows onto the substrate. The seams are sealed by the same technique.

Are You at Risk? If you aren't sure whether your house is at risk from natural disasters, check with your local fire marshal, building official, city engineer, or planning and zoning administrator. They can tell you whether you are in a hazard area. Also, they usually can tell you how to protect yourself and your house and property from damage. It is never a bad idea to ask an InterNACHI inspector whether your roof is in need of repair during your next scheduled inspection. Protection can involve a variety of changes to your house and property which that can vary in complexity and cost. You may be able to make some types of changes yourself. But complicated or large-scale changes and those that affect the structure of your house or its electrical wiring and plumbing should be carried out only by a professional contractor licensed to work in your state, county or city. One example is fire protection, accomplished by replacing flammable roofing materials with fire-resistant materials. This is something that most homeowners would probably hire a contractor to do. Replacing Your Roof The age of your roof is usually the major factor in determining when to replace it. Most roofs last many years, if properly installed, and often can be repaired rather than replaced. An isolated leak usually can be repaired. The average life expectancy of a typical residential roof is 15 to 20 years. Water damage to a home's interior or overhangs is commonly caused by leaks from a single weathered portion of the roof, poorly installed flashing, or from around chimneys and skylights. These problems do not necessarily mean you need a new roof. Fire-Resistant Materials Some roofing materials, including asphalt shingles, and especially wood shakes, are less resistant to fire than others. When wildfires and brush fires spread to houses, it is often because burning branches, leaves, and other debris buoyed by the heated air and carried by the wind fall onto roofs. If the roof of your house is covered with wood or asphalt shingles, you should consider replacing them with fire-resistant materials. You can replace your existing roofing materials with slate, terra cotta or other types of tile, or standing-seam metal roofing. Replacing roofing materials is difficult and dangerous work. Unless you are skilled in roofing and have all the necessary tools and equipment, you will probably want to hire a roofing contractor to do the work. Also, a roofing contractor can advise you on the relative advantages and disadvantages of various fire-resistant roofing materials. Hiring a Licensed Contractor One of the best ways to select a roofing contractor is to ask friends and relatives for recommendations. You may also contact a professional roofers association for referrals. Professional associations have stringent guidelines for their members to follow. The roofers association in your area will provide you with a list of available contractors. Follow these guidlines when selecting a contractor:

get three references and review their past work;
get at least three bids;
get a written contract, and don't sign anything until you completely understand the terms;
pay 10% down or $1,000 whichever is less;
don't let payments get ahead of the work;
don't pay cash;
don't make final payment until you're satisfied with the job; and
don't rush into repairs or be pressured into making an immediate decision.

You've Chosen the Contractor... What About the Contract? Make sure everything is in writing. The contract is one of the best ways to prevent problems before you begin. The contract protects you and the contractor by including everything you have both agreed upon. Get all promises in writing and spell out exactly what the contractor will and will not do. ...and Permits? Your contract should call for all work to be performed in accordance with all applicable building codes. The building codes set minimum safety standards for construction. Generally, a building permit is required whenever structural work is involved. The contractor should obtain all necessary building permits. If this is not specified in the contract, you may be held legally responsible for failure to obtain the required permits. The building department will inspect your roof when the project has reached a certain stage, and again when the roof is completed. ...and Insurance? Make sure the contractor carries workers' compensation insurance and general liability insurance in case of accidents on the job. Ask to have copies of these policies for your job file. You should protect yourself from mechanics' liens against your home in the event the contractor does not pay subcontractors or material suppliers. You may be able to protect yourself by having a "release of lien" clause in your contract. A release of lien clause requires the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers to furnish a "certificate of waiver of lien." If you are financing your project, the bank or lending institution may require that the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers verify that they have been paid before releasing funds for subsequent phases of the project. Keep these points in mind if you plan to have your existing roofing materials replaced:

Tile, metal, and slate are more expensive roofing materials, but if you need to replace your roofing anyway, it may be worthwhile to pay a little more for the added protection these materials provide.
Slate and tile can be much heavier than asphalt shingles or wood shingles. If you are considering switching to one of these heavier coverings, your roofing contractor should determine whether the framing of your roof is strong enough to support them.
If you live in an area where snow loads are a problem, consider switching to a modern standing-seam metal roof, which will usually shed snow efficiently.

International Association of Certified Indoor Air Consultants
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Wood Decay

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Mon, 01 Mar 2010 22:31:26 -0800

By Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Wood decay, also known as wood rot, is the decomposition of wood as the result of actions by certain species of fungi.

Facts about wood decay and decay fungi:

According to Ohio State University, replacement materials needed to repair damage caused by decay account for nearly 10% of U.S. annual wood production.
Carpenter ants, termites and other wood-destroying insects do not cause wood decay. These insects are, however, attracted to wood that has been softened by decay.
Decay fungi are active in temperatures between 77° to 90° Fahrenheit, and need water, oxygen and a food source to survive.
Fungi that cause wood decay are called saprophytic, a term also applied to other organisms that consume decayed material. Many species of fungi, along with saprophytic beetles, worms, protists and bacteria are essential components of the decomposition and nutrient cycles.

How does wood decay happen?

Fungi reproduce by manufacturing single-celled spores, similar to microscopic seeds. Spores are tough; they're able to resist extreme conditions of temperature and humidity and, under adverse conditions, they may go dormant for long periods. Spread primarily by air currents, they collect on horizontal surfaces. Decay fungi feed on the cellulose and lignin of which wood cell walls are composed. Their hyphae, which are threadlike tubes that penetrate the wood, secrete enzymes which dissolve at least part of the wood cell being fed upon, changing it into a form which can then be absorbed as food. Spores require a moisture content higher than the Fiber Saturation Point (FSP) of the wood species upon which they rest, typically between 27% and 30%. Once sufficient water and favorable temperatures are available, spores germinate and develop by extending a hyphal tube. As more spores germinate, fungi multiply to form a colony. Under the right conditions, colonies can expand quickly.

Common types of wood decay:

brown rot: This type of decay causes the wood to break down into brown cubes that split against the grain. Advanced stages of brown decay result in dry, powdery wood that is unable to support much weight, and crumbles easily.
white rot: This type of decay appears whitish, stringy and mushy, and tends to be more common in hardwoods.
dry rot: A misnomer, this term has been used to describe decayed wood that has since dried and ceased decaying. Some people may erroneously assume that the wood is still in the process of decay. Moisture is required for wood decay to occur, so no literal "dry rot" exists.

InterNACHI'S Guide to Identification of wood decay:

Inspectors should check any areas suspected of containing decay by probing. A screwdriver works well for this. Wood with advanced decay will be soft and the probe will penetrate easily. Areas with incipient decay may be a little trickier to identify.

The pick test can also be used to identify decayed wood. To perform this test, a pointed tool, such as an ice pick, is inserted beneath the wood grain to pry loose a thin section of wood till it breaks free. Sound wood will snap crisply and typically breaks off to one side of the pick. Decayed wood will break with a dull sound and usually breaks above the pick's point of insertion.

Although wood-destroying insects, such as termites, are attracted to decayed wood, they also inhabit sound wood. Always probe or use the pick test to confirm that what you've found is sound wood.

Decay Prevention

If the decay hazard is high, select the heartwood of decay-resistant species, or use wood properly treated with a good preservative. (A list of decay-resistant species can be found later in this article.)
Proper grading can prevent water from seeping under the house.
Effective roof overhangs, gutters and downspouts should be installed.
No untreated wood should be placed within 18 inches of the ground.
Adequate cross-ventilation in crawlspaces will help eliminate dead air pockets, which contribute to wood decay.
A vapor barrier can be installed on the soil surface to help limit evaporation and return moisture to the soil, rather than allowing it to condense on the floor and above joists. Plastic sheets can cover the soil to act as satisfactory barriers.
Dehumidifiers and bathroom and kitchen fans will reduce indoor water vapor, and potentially dry wood enough to prevent decay.

Likely decay locations:

stairs and attachment points to the house in decks;
improperly installed door thresholds, especially beneath sliding glass doors;
decks at or near grade;
ground-roof penetration;
roof penetrations with improper or corroded flashing;
beneath windows;
support post bases of decks;
near corrosion of fittings on plumbing;
in basements where housebibs may have burst;
in sub-floors at the base of toilets and tub corners;
the uphill side of chimneys;
sidewall and headwall locations; and
untreated wood in direct contact with concrete, masonry or soil.

Moisture can come from:

general moisture intrusion of building envelope;
plumbing leaks;
snowmelt;
improperly installed, damaged or corroded flashing;
ice dams;
finish grades that slope toward the foundation; and
foundation cracks.

Types of naturally resistant and non-resistant wood:

Resistant woods: teak, rosewood, oak, redwood, cedar, black locust, red mulberry and yews.
Non-resistant woods: hemlock, pine, maple, aspen, alder, elm, birch, buckeye, poplar and beech.

In summary, wood decay is caused by fungi that are attracted to wet locations. For the best inspector in your neighborhood, visit www.InspectorSEEK.com More inspection articles like this.

Protect Your Property From Water Damage

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Mon, 01 Mar 2010 22:26:21 -0800

Protect Your Property From Water Damage

Water may be essential to life, but, as a destructive force, water can diminish the value of your home or building. Homes as well as commercial buildings can suffer water damage that results in increased maintenance costs, a decrease in the value of the property, lowered productivity, and potential liability associated with a decline in indoor air quality. The best way to protect against this potential loss is to ensure that the building components which enclose the structure, known as the building envelope, are water-resistant. Also, you will want to ensure that manufacturing processes, if present, do not allow excess water to accumulate. Finally, make sure that the plumbing and ventilation systems, which can be quite complicated in buildings, operate efficiently and are well-maintained. This article provides some basic steps for identifying and eliminating potentially damaging excess moisture. Identify and Repair All Leaks and Cracks The following are common building-related sources of water intrusion:

windows and doors: Check for leaks around your windows, storefront systems and doors.
roof: Improper drainage systems and roof sloping reduce roof life and become a primary source of moisture intrusion. Leaks are also common around vents for exhaust or plumbing, rooftop air-conditioning units, or other specialized equipment.
foundation and exterior walls: Seal any cracks and holes in exterior walls, joints andfoundations. These often develop as a naturally occurring byproduct of differential soil settlement.
plumbing: Check for leaking plumbing fixtures, dripping pipes (including fire sprinkler systems), clogged drains (both interior and exterior), defective water drainage systems and damaged manufacturing equipment.
ventilation, heating and air conditioning (HVAC) systems: Numerous types, some very sophisticated, are a crucial component to maintaining a healthy, comfortable work environment. They are comprised of a number of components (including chilled water piping and condensation drains) that can directly contribute to excessive moisture in the work environment. In addition, in humid climates, one of the functions of the system is to reduce the ambient air moisture level (relative humidity) throughout the building. An improperly operating HVAC system will not perform this function.

Prevent Water Intrusion Through Good Inspection and Maintenance Programs Hire a qualified InterNACHI inspector to perform an inspection of the following elements of your building to ensure that they remain in good condition:

flashings and sealants: Flashing, which is typically a thin metal strip found around doors, windows and roofs, are designed to prevent water intrusion in spaces where two building materials come together. Sealants and caulking are specifically applied to prevent moisture intrusion at building joints. Both must be maintained and in good condition.
vents: All vents should have appropriate hoods, exhaust to the exterior, and be in good working order.
Review the use of manufacturing equipment that may include water for processing or cooling. Ensure wastewater drains adequately away, with no spillage. Check for condensation around hot or cold materials or heat-transfer equipment.
HVAC systems are much more complicated in commercial buildings. Check for leakage in supply and return water lines, pumps, air handlers and other components. Drain lines should be clean and clear of obstructions. Ductwork should be insulated to prevent condensation on exterior surfaces.
humidity: Except in specialized facilities, the relative humidity in your building should be between 30% and 50%. Condensation on windows, wet stains on walls and ceilings, and musty smells are signs that relative humidity may be high. If you are concerned about the humidity level in your building, consult with a mechanical engineer, contractor or air-conditioning repair company to determine if your HVAC system is properly sized and ingood working order. A mechanical engineer should be consulted when renovations to interior spaces take place.
moist areas: Regularly clean off, then dry all surfaces where moisture frequently collects.
expansion joints: Expansion joints are materials between bricks, pipes and other building materials that absorb movement. If expansion joints are not in good condition, water intrusion can occur.

Protection From Water Damage

interior finish materials: Replace drywall, plaster, carpet and stained or water-damaged ceiling tiles. These are not only good evidence of a moisture intrusion problem, but can lead to deterioration of the work environment, if they remain over time.
exterior walls: Exterior walls are generally comprised of a number of materials combined into a wall assembly. When properly designed and constructed, the assembly is the first line of defense between water and the interior of your building. It is essential that they be maintained properly (including regular refinishing and/or resealing with the correct materials).
storage areas: Storage areas should be kept clean. Allow air to circulate to prevent potential moisture accumulation.

Act Quickly if Water Intrusion Occurs Label shut-off valves so that the water supply can be easily closed in the event of a plumbing leak. If water intrusion does occur, you can minimize the damage by addressing the problem quickly and thoroughly. Immediately remove standing water and all moist materials, and consult with a building professional. Should your building become damaged by a catastrophic event, such as fire, flood or storm, take appropriate action to prevent further water damage, once it is safe to do so. This may include boarding up damaged windows, covering a damaged roof with plastic sheeting, and/or removing wet materials and supplies. Fast action on your part will help minimize the time and expense for repairs, resulting in a faster recovery.

Flood-damaged buildings
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Snow & Wind Damage in Washington Dc Metro Area

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Sat, 13 Feb 2010 13:09:23 -0800

The recent snow storms and wind have caused a lot of damage to homes and trees in the Washington Dc metro area. Please call Carlton at 301-906-4446 or see www.carltoncleans.com for expedited repair or debris removal services by a licensed and insured local contractor.

Rockville Residential Snow Removal

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 14:54:45 -0800

For residential snow removal (atv plow, blowing) in Bethesda, Rockville and Silver Spring call Carlton 301-906-4446 or request service online at www.carltoncleans.com

Deck Restoration Saves Money

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 07:31:54 -0800

Deck restoration will help you to maintain the investment you've made in your home. Your deck is an outdoor extension of your house, providing you the space to both relax and entertain friends. A knowledgeable Deck Cleaning Professional can restore your decks beauty, while applying a protective finish, which will more than double the lifetime of an untreated deck.

Replacing your deck may cost as much as twenty-times the amount of restoring an existing serviceable deck, and the longer you put off having your deck restoration, the more damage weather can do. Mother nature works day and night, 365 days per year, to destroy your decks integrity. The sun's UV rays break down the fiber in the wood, leaving your deck vulnerable to further degeneration, even as the damp underside of your deck provides a near-perfect environment for mold, mildew, and fungi to quickly spread. So why wait until your deck loses it's natural color, or begins to decay and fall apart - when treating it promptly can eliminate these problems?

Hiring a licensed/insured Deck Cleaning Specialist, guarantees the best results in maintaining your deck's appeal and safety for many years to come. Their careful use of pressure washing equipment, along with scrub brushes and hard work; should give your deck a clean, new look. Then by using a preservation product such as high-end penetrating stain, formulated with non-drying oils; your deck should hold up to the harshest weather. Reapplication every 2-3 years is necessary to maintain maximum protection and beauty.

Carlton Mitchell 301-906-4446 Maryland Pressure Washing Services

Fannie Mae’s market value definition and what it means to an appraiser

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 19:02:38 -0800

Fannie Mae’s market value definition and what it means to an appraiser

Jan. 2010 by Carlton Mitchell Certified Residential Appraiser in Maryland and Virginia.

The market value definition is pre-written in FNMA’s appraisal forms.

Here is the market value definition:

DEFINITION OF MARKET VALUE: The most probable price which a property should bring in a competitive and open market under all conditions requisite to a fair sale, the buyer and seller, each acting prudently, knowledgeably and assuming the price is not affected by undue stimulus. Implicit in this definition is the consummation of a sale as of a specified date and the passing of title from seller to buyer under conditions whereby: (1) buyer and seller are typically motivated; (2) both parties are well informed or well advised, and each acting in what he or she considers his or her own best interest; (3) a reasonable time is allowed for exposure in the open market; (4) payment is made in terms of cash in U. S. dollars or in terms of financial arrangements comparable thereto; and (5) the price represents the normal consideration for the property sold unaffected by special or creative financing or sales concessions* granted by anyone associated with the sale.

*Adjustments to the comparables must be made for special or creative financing or sales concessions. No adjustments are necessary for those costs which are normally paid by sellers as a result of tradition or law in a market area; these costs are readily identifiable since the seller pays these costs in virtually all sales transactions. Special or creative financing adjustments can be made to the comparable property by comparisons to financing terms offered by a third party institutional lender that is not already involved in the property or transaction. Any adjustment should not be calculated on a mechanical dollar for dollar cost of the financing or concession but the dollar amount of any adjustment should approximate the market’s

reaction to the financing or concessions based on the appraiser’s judgment.

Most probable price: Please take careful note this does not say highest possible. Therefore, from a risk assessment purpose this mechanism reflects a built in buffer signifying that there has to be market desire for the product at the appraiser’s opinion of value that is main street credible. I begin my market analysis with a market segment definition based on the location and physical features of the property I’m appraising for compliance with reflecting high probability.

Sometimes this market segment is limited to the neighborhood while other times due to limited neighborhood sales I compile sales from a larger geographical area to increase the data points to a high enough number to reflect probable market response.

There are two main factors that help keep the market segment definition creditable when increasing the geographical area. First, the appraiser should verify that the other neighborhoods where data is coming from has a historical price per sqft range similar to the subject neighborhood. If not than identify the cause of the variance and adjust for it in the appraisal. For example, neighborhoods A and B are predominantly rambler homes built post WWII. Neighborhood A’s ramblers are generally slightly larger than neighborhood B but through historical analysis and matching sales over time from each neighborhood sorted by condition illustrate that the price per sqft range from each neighborhood is small enough to not warrant a linear negative size adjustment for sales from neighborhood A.

I have seen this many times when reviewing appraisals where linear adjustments are simply assumed. I have sent appraisals to lenders with out a linear size adjustment with market support for my determination only to have lender reviewer’s call and request a linear adjustment because “every report has a linear size adjustment over 100sqft variance”. I have to laugh because many appraisers’ use software that has a built in process for automatically adjusting for size. The software often has a default variance setting of 100 sqft. For example, any variance over 100 sqft adjust. The appraiser inputs the multiplier and the software auto adjusts. So if so many appraisers are adjusting for size base on a software default setting how is that a reflection of the market? Does every market segment respond to size in the same manner?

The second factor to keep the data compilation creditable requires the appraiser to set search parameters based on physical features to isolate sales from the data set that are not comparable to the subject. Meaning remove data points that simply would not be considered by the market place to be in the same bracket. For example, if I’m appraising a 50 year old home newer homes typically would not be in my data set. Be mind full of location and physical variance that may skew the data set compilation from reflecting market response specific to the home you are appraising.

“buyer and seller, each acting prudently, knowledgeably and assuming the price is not affected by undue stimulus.” This part of the definition caused issues in lender appraisal policy when foreclosures started to become wide spread in the market place. Some appraisers were saying that foreclosures or short sales should not be included in the appraisal if the subject property was not in a similar distressed status. On the surface that seemed reasonable but never set well with me. I simply do not like blanket policies as being the best fit for every situation. I choose to let the market tell me how to define the data set. The affect of distressed sales/listing can be determined by simple categorization. Create two columns with distressed sales in one and non-distressed sales in another. Break down into condition categories and compare the sale prices and days on the market to identify the market response. Than incorporate the outcome into the appraisal development process.

“price represents the normal consideration for the property sold unaffected by special or creative financing or sales concessions*”

Notice FNMA has a star beside this statement. I hear it all the time from realtors. FNMA allows up to 6% seller concessions as if it’s a free party to inflate prices or hold prices up when demand is falling. This is the beginning of FNMA’s directive to appraisers that we are responsible to determine misuse of seller concessions. Meaning that appraisers must determine if the concessions reflect market value or not. This is most noticed when qualified buyers purchase a similar unit without concession at a lower price. This is typically identifiable in multiple transactions and really illustrates where the market is moving. Also, take a neighborhood or a market area and run all sales for a 30 year period. Most likely you will find a big increase in seller concession during economical downturns. I’ll get into the significance of this historical data below.

“*Adjustments to the comparables must be made for special or creative financing or sales concessions.” Once again FNMA has a star to signify importance. Simply compile the data set and identify transactions with and without concessions and let the market determine where market acceptance is and net the concessions accordingly.

Now we get back to the historical data analysis. “normally paid by sellers as a result of tradition or law in a market area; these costs are readily identifiable since the seller pays these costs in virtually all sales”

Compile the sales data for 30 years for the defined market area. Can you say virtually all sales had seller concessions? It is law? In my market area Montgomery County Md and Fairfax County Va I can say seller concessions are not law. I’ll even say sellers really do not want to give money back at closing. I will also say virtually all sales do not have seller concession. Therefore, for FNMA compliance I must determine most probable market value and may need to net seller concessions to meet compliance.

“Any adjustment should not be calculated on a mechanical dollar for dollar cost of the financing or concession but the dollar amount of any adjustment should approximate the market’s

reaction to the financing or concessions based on the appraiser’s judgment.”

What FNMA is stating here is as mentioned above, determine probable market value and base the removal of seller concessions in the opinion of value rooted in market response. Yes, it may be a 100% concession deduction (dollar for dollar) across the data set.

Carlton Mitchell

www.appraisersoncall.com

Carlton provides residential appraisal services in Maryland and Virginia for a 30 mile radius of Washington Dc. Carlton specializes in Montgomery County MD. Carlton is a certified residential appraiser based in Silver Spring, Md. Carlton accepts fee assignments and is available for appraisal review work.

Warm weather coming next week in Washington Dc area

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Sun, 17 Jan 2010 11:53:27 -0800

Warm weather is coming next week which is a good time to walk around your property and start writing your spring outdoor cleaning and maintenance list.

Take note of any patio settlement, deck cracking or warping, loose gutters, over grown tree/bushes, soil erosion, peeling paint, missing window or door caulk an finally any ground low spots next to the foundation.

Once you have your list ready mark the projects you want a professional to complete and call Carlton at 301-906-4446 or email at service@carltoncleans.com, www.carltoncleans.com

Calton specializes in deck cleaing, deck repairs, deck installation, patio cleaning, patio repairs, patio installation, pressure washing, power washing, siding cleaning, exterior painting, house painting, window trim repairs and window /door caulking

Pressure Washing Do's & Don'ts

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 18:02:58 -0800

Pressure Washing Do's & Don'ts

Maryland & Virginia Deck installation, Deck Power Washing, Deck Staining, Siding Cleaning, Pressure Washing Services and Painting www.carltoncleans.com

Many homeowners don't realize the skills needed to properly clean a home's exterior. The assumption is that the home is dirty, so just blast the outside with bleach and a pressure washer and all is clean. Though that might work sometimes more often than not it will cause property damage.
There are skills and experience required when cleaning a property's exterior or any surface such as a driveway. For example, pressure washers come with several different tips for the ends of the pressure gun. They have different angles that the water exits the washer. A 20° tip is typically used to clean surfaces like hardi-plank, vinyl siding but should also be used at a distance from the surface of at least 12-20 inches. Anything closer can cause property damage. A 0° tip is used for shooting water up to 30ft away. It is for crevices in 3 story homes where ladders can't reach.
Inexperienced homeowners and pressure washers who don't understand basic pressure washing fundamentals like the various tip functions mentioned above can cause property damage or worse injury. A 0° tip used directly on a surface will rip the material away and will gouge concrete surfaces without a problem. Even worse, a 0° tip pointed at a person can take out a eye or pierce the skin.
There are also helpful things that most people don't know exist with experienced cleaners. For example, a skilled pressure washer can clean a 2 story home without ever setting foot on a ladder. They utilize extension poles and specialized tips along with detergents to clean areas from the ground. This not only does the job faster but is safer for all involved.
One other tip most homeowners or inexperienced washers might not be aware of is in gutter cleaning. A 2 story home with gutters is next to impossible to clean without proper equipment. The assumption is to climb up on a ladder and toss the debris down to the ground and clean the gutters with water. A professional will utilize a extension pole and a flexible gutter attachment that goes on the end of the pressure gun. This tool can be bent 180° to allow the pressure gun to distribute high pressure water to the gutters from the ground in combination with a extension pole.
These are just a few tips and techniques to be aware of when considering cleaning your homes exterior. It's not that you can't do it yourself but just research the proper way of doing it before you damage property or get injured. Better safe than sorry.
Happy home improvement to you for 2010.
If you are considering professional assistance and live in the Houston area check out http://www.BigTexCleaning.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Derek_Caldwell

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Chevy Chase Painting

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 17:53:13 -0800

Proper preparation and cleans lines reflect a successful paint job. At Grimmett Contracting we provide meticulous painting at affordable rates. Replacing rotten wood, sanding, drywall repair and scraping are a must on every job with an aged finish.

You can count on us to complete the job in a timely manor with a peace of mind that your personal property is safe and the job is completed right the first time. We specialize in Montgomery County Painting.

Maryland Divorce Appraisal

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 17:45:01 -0800

Finalizing a divorce involves many decisions, including "Who gets the house"? There are generally two options regarding the house - it can be sold and the proceeds divided, or one party can "buy out" the other. In either case, one or both parties should order an appraisal of the residence. Divorce appraisals require a well supported, professional appraisal that is defensible in court. When you order an appraisal from us, you are assured that you will get the best in professional service, courtesy, and the highest quality appraisal. We also know how to handle the sensitive needs of a divorce situation.

Attorneys and Accountants rely on our values when calculating real property values for estates, divorces, or other disputes requiring a value being placed on real property. We understand their needs and are used to dealing with all parties involved. We provide appraisal reports that meet the requirements of the courts and various agencies.

As an attorney handling a divorce, your needs oftentimes include an appraisal to establish fair market value for the residential real estate involved. Often the divorce date differs from the date you order the appraisal. We are familiar with the procedures and requirements necessary to perform a retroactive appraisal with an effective date and Fair Market Value estimate matching the date of divorce. The ethics provision within the Uniform Standards of Professional Appraisal Practice (USPAP) binds us with confidentiality, ensuring the fullest degree of discretion. Call Carlton Mitchell 301-358-2329 for Maryland Certified Appraiser.

Maryland Deck Cleaning and Staining

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 17:13:13 -0800

Slowing the process of deck cracking and structural integrity loss are the two main benefits from a deck beautification process such as deck cleaning and oil stain application. Carlton Cleans provides Maryland deck cleaning in the following areas Bethesda, Potomac, Chevy Chase, Rockville, Silver Spring, Gaithersburg and Germantown. We do not use high water pressure as a main method of cleaning and deck preparation for a Ready Seal, Armstrong Clark, Wolman, or Cabot stain application.

We use cleaning agents to soften the dirt, mold and algae for removal with deck bushes and low water pressure. This minimizes the damage to the soft spring wood fibers (fuzzy wood/frayed wood) but still meets the goal of deck beatification and protection. We only use high quality cleaner and stains and specialize in soaking the wood with stain to maximize the protect level.

For the client to get the most out of a deck cleaning beatification process it is important to allow the deck to soak the maximum amount of 100% oil stain with full penetration into the wood fibers. We do not recommend the use of acrylic or latex stains/paints from retail home improvement stores on any uncovered deck. These types of deck products are surface technology verses oil penetration and with the natural wood expansion and shrinking they tend to crack and peel defeating the purpose of beatifying and protecting your deck.

Call Carlton 301-906-4446 for Maryland deck cleaning, deck staining, deck repairs, fence repairs and new outdoor construction items.

Electrical Safety

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 14:29:05 -0800

Electricity is an essential part of our lives. However, it has the potential to cause great harm. Electrical systems will function almost indefinitely, if properly installed and not overloaded or physically abused. Electrical fires in our homes claim the lives of 485 Americans each year and injure 2,305 more. Some of these fires are caused by electrical system failures and appliance defects, but many more are caused by the misuse and poor maintenance of electrical appliances, incorrectly installed wiring, and overloaded circuits and extension cords. Some safety tips to remember:

Never use anything but the proper fuse to protect a circuit.
Find and correct overloaded circuits.
Never place extension cords under rugs.
Outlets near water should be GFCI-type outlets.
Don't allow trees near power lines to be climbed.
Keep ladders, kites, equipment and anything else away from overhead power lines.

Electrical Panels Electricity enters the home through a control panel and a main switch where one can shut off all the power in an emergency. These panels are usually located in the basement. Control panels use either fuses or circuit breakers. Install the correct fuses for the panel. Never use a higher-numbered fuse or a metallic item, such as a penny. If fuses are used and there is a stoppage in power, look for the broken metal strip in the top of a blown fuse. Replace the fuse with a new one marked with the correct amperage. Reset circuit breakers from "off" to "on." Be sure to investigate why the fuse or circuit blew. Possible causes include frayed wires, overloaded outlets, or defective appliances. Never overload a circuit with high-wattage appliances. Check the wattage on appliance labels. If there is frayed insulation or a broken wire, a dangerous short circuit may result and cause a fire. If power stoppages continue or if a frayed or broken wire is found, contact an electrician. Outlets and Extension Cords
Make sure all electrical receptacles or outlets are three-hole, grounded outlets. If there is water in the area, there should be a GFCI or ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet. All outdoor outlets should be GFCIs. There should be ample electrical capacity to run equipment without tripping circuit breakers or blowing fuses. Minimize extension cord use. Never place them under rugs. Use extension cords sparingly and check them periodically. Use the proper electrical cord for the job, and put safety plugs in unused outlets.
Electrical Appliances
Appliances need to be treated with respect and care. They need room to breathe. Avoid enclosing them in a cabinet without proper openings, and do not store papers around them. Level appliances so they do not tip. Washers and dryers should be checked often. Their movement can put undue stress on electrical connections. If any appliance or device gives off a tingling shock, turn it off, unplug it, and have a qualified person correct the problem. Shocks can be fatal. Never insert metal objects into appliances without unplugging them. Check appliances periodically to spot worn or cracked insulation, loose terminals, corroded wires, defective parts and any other components that might not work correctly. Replace these appliances or have them repaired by a person qualified to do so.
Electrical Heating Equipment
Portable electrical heating equipment may be used in the home as a supplement to the home heating system. Caution must be taken when using these heating supplements. Keep them away from combustibles, and make sure they cannot be tipped over. Keep electrical heating equipment in good working condition. Do not use them in bathrooms because of the risk of contact with water and electrocution. Many people use electric blankets in their homes. They will work well if they are kept in good condition. Look for cracks and breaks in the wiring, plugs and connectors. Look for charred spots on both sides. Many things can cause electric blankets to overheat. They include other bedding placed on top of them, pets sleeping on top of them, and putting things on top of the blanket when it is in use. Folding the blankets can also bend the coils and cause overheating.
Children
Electricity is important to the workings of the home, but can be dangerous, especially to children. Electrical safety needs to be taught to children early on. Safety plugs should be inserted in unused outlets when toddlers are in the home. Make sure all outlets in the home have face plates. Teach children not to put things into electrical outlets and not to chew on electrical cords. Keep electrical wiring boxes locked. Do not allow children to come in contact with power lines outside. Never allow them to climb trees near power lines, utility poles or high tension towers.
Electricity and Water
A body can act like a lightning rod and carry the current to the ground. People are good conductors of electricity, particularly when standing in water or on a damp floor. Never use any electrical appliance in the tub or shower. Never touch an electric cord or appliance with wet hands. Do not use electrical appliances in damp areas or while standing on damp floors. In areas where water is present, use outlets with GFCIs. Shocks can be fatal.
Animal Hazards
Mice and other rodents can chew on electrical wires and damage them. If rodents are suspected or known to be in the home, be aware of the damage they may cause, and take measures to get rid of them.
Outside Hazards
There are several electrical hazards outside the home. Be aware of overhead and underground power lines. People have been electrocuted when an object they are moving has come in contact with the overhead power lines. Keep ladders, antennae, kites and poles away from power lines leading to the house and other buildings. Do not plant trees, shrubs or bushes under power lines or near underground power lines. Never build a swimming pool or other structure under the power line leading to your house. Before digging, learn the location of underground power lines.
Do not climb power poles or transmission towers. Never let anyone shoot or throw stones at insulators. If you have an animal trapped in a tree or on the roof near electric lines, phone your utility company. Do not take a chance of electrocuting yourself. Be aware of weather conditions when installing and working with electrical appliances. Never use electrical power tools or appliances with rain overhead or water underfoot. Use only outdoor lights, fixtures and extension cords. Plug into outlets with a GFCI. Downed power lines are extremely dangerous. If you see a downed power line, call the electric company, and warn others to stay away. If a power line hits your car while you are in it, stay inside unless the car catches fire. If the car catches fire, jump clear without touching metal and the ground at the same time. MORE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS :

Routinely check your electrical appliances and wiring.
Hire an InterNACHI inspector. InterNACHI inspectors must pass rigorous safety training and are knowledgeable in the ways to reduce the likelihood of electrocution.
Frayed wires can cause fires. Replace all worn, old and damaged appliance cords immediately.
Use electrical extension cords wisely and don't overload them.
Keep electrical appliances away from wet floors and counters; pay special care to electrical appliances in the bathroom and kitchen.
Don't allow children to play with or around electrical appliances, such as space heaters, irons and hair dryers.
Keep clothes, curtains and other potentially combustible items at least 3 feet from all heaters.
If an appliance has a three-prong plug, use it only in a three-slot outlet. Never force it to fit into a two-slot outlet or extension cord.
Never overload extension cords or wall sockets. Immediately shut off, then professionally replace, light switches that are hot to the touch, as well as lights that flicker. Use safety closures to childproof electrical outlets.
Check your electrical tools regularly for signs of wear. If the cords are frayed or cracked, replace them. Replace any tool if it causes even small electrical shocks, overheats, shorts out or gives off smoke or sparks.

In summary, household electrocution can be prevented by following the tips offered in this guide and by hiring an InterNACHI inspector. For the best inspector in your neighborhood, visit www.InspectorSEEK.com More inspection articles like this.

What Really Matters in a Home Inspection

Carlton Mitchell (Carlton Cleans) — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 14:25:33 -0800

Buying a home? The process can be stressful. A home inspection is supposed to give you peace of mind, but it often has the opposite effect. You will be asked to absorb a lot of information over a short time. This often includes a written report, checklist, photographs, environmental reports, and what the inspector himself says during the inspection. All this combined with the seller's disclosure and what you notice yourself make the experience even more overwhelming. What should you do? Relax. Inspectors are professionals, and if yours is a member of InterNACHI, then you can trust that he/she is among the most highly trained in the industry. Most of your inspection will be related to maintenance recommendations and minor imperfections. These are good to know about. However, the issues that really matter will fall into four categories:

major defects: An example of this would be a structural failure;
things that lead to major defects: a small roof-flashing leak, for example;
things that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home; and
safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electric panel.

Anything in these categories should be addressed. Often, a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4).

Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection. Realize that sellers are under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in the report. No home is perfect. Keep things in perspective. Do not kill your deal over things that do not matter. It is inappropriate to demand that a seller address deferred maintenance, conditions already listed on the seller's disclosure, or nit-picky items.

For the best inspector in your neighborhood, visit: www.InspectorSEEK.com More inspection articles like this.