David 's Blog

Press Release Marketing

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sun, 04 Jan 2009 14:02:27 -0600

Submit a free online press release. Its free marketing.

<a href="http://www.pressreleasepoint.com/ways-ease-home-seller-frustration-todays-real-estate-market">Ways To Ease Home Seller Frustration In Todays Real Estate Market </a>

What is Carbon Monoxide and why do I need a Carbon Monoxide Detector?

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 03 Jan 2009 13:23:32 -0600

Question:

What is Carbon Monoxide and why do I need a Carbon Monoxide Detector?

Answer:

Carbon monoxide (CO) is an odorless, colorless and potentially dangerous gas produced when fuel burns without enough air for complete combustion. Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning include fatigue, headache, dizziness, nausea, coughing, irregular breathing, paleness and cherry red lips and ears.

If symptoms are noticed, it is advised that you immediately open windows and doors to ventilate the home or structure, call 911 and get outside into fresh air. Later, have appliances checked carefully by a qualified heating contractor.

Purchase and install a carbon monoxide detector on each level of your home and near sleeping areas, in rooms over or near a garage, in the basement or other isolated area, and in rooms where space heaters are used. Detectors that have been verified by Underwriters Laboratory (UL) and have been manufactured after October 1995 conform to minimum alarm requirements. Those marked UL 2034 or IAS 6--96 have met the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission guidelines. Follow the directions for installing and using the detector carefully.

To help prevent carbon monoxide poisoning:

•Ø Have your chimney and flue cleaned every year.

•Ø Get a qualified inspector to check appliances and heating systems each year.

•Ø Be sure all home appliances have adequate ventilation.

•Ø Don't rely on carbon monoxide detectors as a substitute for maintaining appliances, furnaces or chimneys.

•Ø Be sure burner flames in appliances and heating systems are blue, not orange.

•Ø Never use a gas range for space heating.

•Ø Never run an automobile or gasoline engine in an enclosed space.

•Ø Never use a charcoal grill indoors.

For More information visit us online Http://www.ahi-nc.net

Why Get A 12 Month Warranty Inspections

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 03 Jan 2009 10:08:27 -0600

If You Let the Warranty Expire On Your New Home Without an Inspection There's a
Good Chance You're Throwing Money Away

While prevention is best cure, experience tells us that most major construction defects go
unnoticed for 3-5 years. As the first-year anniversary of your new home approaches, your
homebuilder warranty is about to run out. Most of these defects go unnoticed by the
untrained eye until it is too late and damage has occurred. Are you prepared to go it
alone? If you do not address problems within one year of your closing date, your builder will
no longer be responsible for problems. But you will!

A Warranty End Home Inspection can save you thousands of dollars

in out-of-pocket costs.

A national survey showed that 95% of all new homes built between 2000-2002 had a
major defect that cost the new owners time and extra money, some even had to move into
a hotel room for a period of time while that "New Home" was being repaired!

To address the needs of new homeowners like you, AHI Inspections is pleased to offer our
End of Warranty Inspection. We'll do a thorough inspection of your home before your
warranty runs out, and we'll supply you with a customized detailed report identifying the
problems. As an impartial, third-party inspector, AHI Home & Building Inspection Services
does not perform corrective work nor do we work for the builder, so we have no vested
interest in discovering or concealing problems. We simply present our findings based on
our experience and knowledge. We're There For You!!

When a home is being built, the builder or site superintendent is seldom on site for more
than 60-90 minutes a day (sometimes they never set foot on the site). During that time,
they are dealing with all types of problems and details. Many sub-contractors are used as
are many vendors. Each has their own specific job and time schedule to work on. And
that's all that they care about. It is up to the builder or superintendent to check and ensure
the home and all its complex systems are in proper working condition.

Our inspection covers over 400 items and includes testing of all systems and
components. All visible defects will be noted including but not limited to manufacturer
and/or contractors flaws, not visible to the untrained eye until it's to late. This "last
chance" inspection, is essential in providing you with the peace of mind you
deserve.

An inspector typically spends a minimum of 2.5 hours or more (depending upon the size of
the home) evaluating a home, and may recommend further evaluation if problems or
symptoms are discovered. AHI Inspections strongly encourages you to accompany the
inspector so that you can ask questions and learn even more about your home.
Do not miss this exceptional opportunity to have your new home professionally evaluated
while it is still under the builders warranty. You will gain peace of mind in knowing your
investment in a new home will last many years into the future, well past the limitations of
your builders own short-lived warranty. Call us today, and enjoy your new home!

Thank you for considering AHI Inspections for your residential home inspection needs.

North and South Carolina Cites Served!

North and South Carolina Counties served:

Mecklengburg, Iredell, Lincoln,Gaston, Union, Cabarrus, Rowan, York, Lancaster, Alexander,
Cleveland

For More information visit us online Http://www.ahi-nc.net

Frequently Asked Questions For Home Buyers

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 03 Jan 2009 10:05:33 -0600

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS FOR HOME BUYERS

Question? Why should I even get a home inspection?

The purchase of a home is probably the largest single investment you will ever make. You should learn
as much as you can about the condition of the property and the need for any major repairs before you
buy, so that you can minimize unpleasant surprises and difficulties afterwards.
Of course, a home inspection also points out the positive aspects of a home, as well as the
maintenance that will be necessary to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will have a much
clearer understanding of the property you are about to purchase.

If you are already a home owner, a home inspection may be used to identify problems in the making
and to learn preventive measures which might avoid costly future repairs. If you are planning to sell
your home, you may wish to have an inspection prior to placing your home on the market. This will
give you a better understanding of conditions which may be discovered by the buyer's inspector, and
an opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition.

HOW TO SELECT A HOME INSPECTOR?

Make sure your home inspector meets the requirements of all laws and regulations in your
state.
Your home inspector should have proper training or experience.
Ask if the inspector is a member of a professional Home Inspection organization.
If your state or province does not require a license for home inspectors, it is important that
the home inspector belongs to an association and abide by a set of standard practices and
code of ethics that require professionalism in the industry. National home inspector
organizations like the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), National
Association of Home Inspectors (NAHI), and similar state or province level
organizations require their members to adhere to strict standards of practice and continuing
education.
Ideally, he should be referred by someone other than your real estate agent.

What else can I ask a home inspector to help me make a decision?

What type of report do you deliver?

A home inspection should include a report that describes what was inspected. The best reports are
created using home inspection software that include pictures and comments specific to your home.

When and how do you deliver the report?

Inspectors using home inspection software can often deliver the report on site or at least deliver the
report thru the Internet for quicker delivery. Internet report delivery is often important for out of town
clients instead of messy faxes or costly overnight shipping.

Can I see a sample home inspection report?

Request a copy of a sample report to make sure it is detailed and easily understood. If you cannot
understand the report or if you lose interest in reading the ton of extra, useless information some
reports contain you probably will not read your own report and maybe miss important information.
Who is the cheapest? Inspectors all look at the same things right?
Every inspector is different and comes with strong points and weak points. You may save $50 by
choosing a cheaper inspector and he could miss $1,000 in problems. Usually, the best inspectors are
not the cheapest. If you want to save money, possibly thousands, then don't choose the cheapest
inspector. A thorough and experienced home inspector is the best route to take.

North and South Carolina Cites Served!

North and South Carolina Counties served:

Mecklengburg, Iredell, Lincoln,Gaston, Union, Cabarrus, Rowan, York, Lancaster, Alexander,
Cleveland

For More information visit us online Http://www.ahi-nc.net

New Home Construction Phase Inspections

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 03 Jan 2009 10:03:25 -0600

NEW HOME CONSTRUCTION (also called phase inspections)

Very often, purchasers of newly constructed homes believe that there is no reason for their
new home to be independently inspected at the pre-drywall stag and / or just prior to closing,
by a competent private sector professional building inspector. After all, new homes are so
beautiful!

Buyers may believe, due to the local building inspection department having inspected the
house on multiple "mini-inspections" during its construction, that nothing could have been
missed. Or, they may feel that because the builder or developer is providing some type of
warranty, that it will cover everything. Unfortunately, this is not always true....and when it is
true, it usually costs more time and especially frustration to repair a defect if your furniture
and other possessions are already in the home. And....If the defect is a structural,
plumbing or a roof leak......well, you don't even want to think about it! Although local
building department inspectors usually have your best interest in mind, they neither catch
everything nor do they inspect the roof, per our experience and research. You should also
know that manufacturer warranties do not cover every component for every condition which
might affect them. The simple fact is that a new home should be in new condition! We
are here for your peace of mind!

Usually, builders and developers have a greater incentive to make repairs or corrections
before closing. An independent inspection by AHI Home Inspection prior to closing will help
you find defective components, improper installations or other new construction issues and
will also provide you with very valuable maintenance information to help you manage
maintenance costs and help you better understand the workings of your home for years to
come.

Below are some of the conditions and defects that have been found while
conducting these phase inspections and new finished home inspections:

· Missing attic insulation or no attic insulation (See Pictures Below)

· Improper wiring; defective GFCI's or electrical outlets

· Roof leaks; damaged roofing; improper flashings; damage shingles (See Pictures Below)

· Damaged or loose plumbing components; plumbing leaks (See Pictures Below)

· Reversed hot and cold water lines

· Poor installation of stud walls, siding and or structural components

Damage to structural components by sub-contractor is common! (See Pictures Below)

· Windows installed incorrectly; damaged windows; seal issues (See Pictures Below)

· Gas fireplace exhaust flue installed upside down & not connected; gas leakage

· Loose stair railings; improperly constructed stairways

· Improper soil grading

· Missing hardware; incomplete trim work

· Improperly secured cabinets; damaged cabinets

· Leaking appliances

Framing Issue

This is not a complete list of the conditions that we have found in newly constructed homes,
nor do we find most of them in every new home we inspect. In fact, we are only human and
may not see things in new or older homes that were not visible at the time of the inspection.
However, we provide our services by adhering to the ASHI Standards of Practice for
Professional Home Inspectors and our Clients have been consistently very satisfied that
inspection items are found prior to the time they signed off on their new home. Keep in mind
that most builders and developers do their best to build a quality home for their Clients. The
conditions found by Assure Home Inspection are typically the result of the complex logistics
of new home construction and the time constraints put on city building inspectors. There are
a large number of trades people (subcontractors) involved in the construction process and
they often work on the home at different intervals, rather than all at once. When the
inspection issues are brought to the builders attention, they typically will simply add them to
their own "punch list" of final detail work and they will be taken care of by the appropriate
subcontractor.

NORMAL AHI PHASE INSPECTION "CHAIN OF EVENTS"

1) Client (or Realtor) calls Assure to ask questions and schedule an inspection. Hopefully,
this is at least a couple of weeks prior to the preferred inspection date (but if not, we'll do our
best and can usually accommodate!).

2) Assure provides to Builder any reasonable paperwork they require upon request.
(Usually, this is only requested for pre-drywall phase inspections.)

3) Assure helps coordinate the inspection date and time between Home Buyer, Building
Superintendent, Realtor or others involved.

4) Home buyer is not required to attend the inspection, but we do recommend at least
attending near the end of the inspection to go over a summary, sign the inspection
agreement and make payment for the inspection. Assure accepts checks, cash and Visa,
Mastercard and American Express cards for payment. Credit card payments can be
completed by phone, and we do perform a lot of inspections for Clients who cannot attend,
or prefer not to attend. By State guidelines, any inspection agreement should be signed by
the end of the inspection. The agreement is accessible on our website (home page, "forms"
button) to view and print, sign and fax to Assure, if necessary.

5) Your AHI Inspector will complete the on-site inspection, provide the on-site verbal
summary if Client attends, then will provide the inspection report within 24 hours to Client
(and Builder, if so required). The reports can be accessed from our website, or faxed to the
Client and Builder. On-site inspections usually last between 2-4 hours, depending on the
size of the home and other factors. Most of our inspections begin around 9am or 2pm, but
again...we're flexible! We're here for your peace of mind.

NEW CONSTRUCTION INFORMATION CHECKLIST FOR BUYER

AHI Home Inspection recommends that all purchasers of newly constructed homes obtain as
much of the applicable information outlined below as possible from their builder or developer:

· Blueprints

· Engineering documents

· Soil reports

· Well or septic documents, if applicable

· Copy of the Certificate of Occupancy (after home finished)

· Copy of signed-off permits

· Warranties for the following:

· Water heaters and heating system components

· Fireplaces and components

· Air conditioning equipment

· Kitchen appliances

· Plumbing fixtures and fixture trim

· Electrical devices and fixtures

· Cabinets and counter tops

· Windows and doors, including garage doors and garage door openers

· Floor covering materials and installation

· Roof covering materials and installation

· Surface finishes; wallpaper, paint, stain, etc.

· Siding and veneers

· Masonry work

· Security systems

· Landscape irrigation systems and materials

· Builder's warranties

Your Builder may be able to provide you with many of the items listed above (and probably
will have already done so) or can provide you with the names of the manufacturers so that
you can write and obtain any specific warranty information on any products in your home
that you do not have.
Keep all of these documents together and in a place where you can locate them. They may
be helpful to you and to the next buyer of your home!

CALL FOR PHASE INSPECTION PRICING

North and South Carolina Cites Served!

North and South Carolina Counties served: Mecklengburg, Iredell, Lincoln,Gaston,
Union, Cabarrus, Rowan, York, Lancaster, Alexander, Cleveland

Advantages of a pre-listing Inspection

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 03 Jan 2009 09:55:40 -0600

If you're like most home sellers, you have probably lived in your home for more than 5 years. It
is in these last 5 years some major changes have occurred in the sale process of a home.

1. Sellers Disclosure.
The biggest change is the requirements of providing a "SELLERS DISCLOSURE." You the home owner must list all the
known defects in the home.
2. Home Inspectors.

The home inspector is usually hired by the Buyer and arrives at your property after a contract is negotiated to inspect
and list any defects, questionable areas, upgrade suggestions and maintenance.

When significant problems are found by the Home Inspector the buyer may:

terminate the contract.
or ask for inflated amounts to have the problem fixed.
or be so alarmed by the defect found, will terminate the contract without giving you the
chance to fix it.

Either way your house is back on the market and the problem is still there for the next buyer to find.

How easy is selling a house with a Seller's Inspection?

If a seller's inspection is performed and significant damage or defects are found. There will be
disappointment, but no hysteria or regret. No deal about to go sour. The agent will discuss the
problems with the Seller and will determine if this listing is "AS IS" with full disclosure, or if any
repairs need correcting to expedite the sale. The Seller then corrects any problem areas, and calls for a
re-inspection of the home. The home inspector returns a clean report. Next, a Buyer enters a
contract agreement with the Seller. The Buyer will choose to trust the home inspection or will have
another. No major problems should be found by the second inspection. The deal coasts downhill to
closing. Everyone is happy.

Twenty real advantages to the seller:

)

A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which:

)

Advantages to the real estate agent:

)

Advantages to the home buyer:

Common myths about seller inspections:

Question? Don't seller inspections kill deals by forcing sellers to disclose defects they otherwise
wouldn't have known about?

Answer. No. Any defect that is material enough to kill a real estate transaction is likely going to be
uncovered eventually anyway. It is best to discover the problem ahead of time, before it can kill the
deal.

Question? Isn't a home inspector's liability increased by having his/her reports be seen by potential
buyers?

Answer. No. There is no liability in having your seller permit someone who doesn't buy the property
see your report. And there is less liability in having a buyer rely on your old report when the buyer is
not your client and has been warned not to rely on your report, than it is to work directly for the buyer
and have him be entitled to rely on your report.

Question? Don't seller inspections take too much energy to sell to make them profitable for the
inspector?

Answer. Perhaps. But not when the inspector takes into account the marketing benefit of having a
samples of his/her product (the report) being passed out to agents and potential buyers who are
looking to buy now in the inspector's own local market, not to mention the seller who is likely moving
locally and in need of an inspector, plus the additional chance of re-inspection work being generated
for the inspector.

Question? A newer home in good condition doesn't need an inspection anyway. Why should the
seller have one done?

Answer. No. Unlike real estate agents whose job it is to market properties for their sellers, inspectors
produce objective reports. If the property is truly in great shape the inspection report becomes a
pseudo marketing piece with the added benefit of having been generated by an impartial party.

For More information visit us online Http://www.ahi-nc.net

Word of mouth referrals rank #1 among business owners

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sun, 28 Dec 2008 09:58:39 -0600

Word of mouth referrals rank #1 among business owners when asked where they prefer new business originates. That comes as no surprise. What's interesting is most professionals believe this type of referral happens only with time, experience. and luck. While that statement carries some truth, betting on luck to grow your business is downright risky and most don't have the financial resources to stand the test of time without experiencing incremental growth in the meantime. So what's the solution to this problem. The answer is Referral Partners. A Referral Partner is any business that does not directly compete with, but has the same customer as your business. For example, the patient that visits the Chiropractor's office may benefit from Massage, therefore if the Chiropractor networked with a reputable Massage Therapist, together they could refer patients to one another. Or, a Realtor needs a mortgage consultant to provide loans for home buyers. On a regular basis both would be connecting with potential home buyers and could easily and predictably refer to the other. There are dozens of other businesses with synergistic relationships that are rarely utilized to their full potential.

These Referral Partners are also known as Referral Alliances. Within a structured networking environment, like BNI, five Referral Alliances are present: Home Services, Financial Services, Personal Services, Health and Wellness, and Business Services. And the goal of each one of these sub groups is to have between 5 to 7 business people that represent non competing products, yet target the same customer. Currently, applications are being accepted for the following business classifications:

Commercial Realtor
Builder
Dentist
Photographer
Event Planner
Handyman
DJ
Property Manager
Printing Company
Home Stager

Over the last 3 months the group has generated $1,000,000 in new business for it's members. Every sale, every new business contact was created by word of mouth referrals and nothing else.

If you know a professional in any of the classifications listed above, please reach David Johnson with AHI Home & Building Inspection, or visit the Cornelius Family Restaurant at 12:30pm, located on Catawba Rd. Then judge for yourself!

Don't Let Your Dream Home Become a Headache !

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 15:24:37 -0600

Don't Let Your Dream Home Become a Headache !

75 % of homes sold today are inspected; Unfortunately, Some home inspectors appear to be blind
when it comes to knowing what to look for during a home inspection or just in a rush to get the
inspection done (It is our belief that this is the major culprit for missing inspection items). Warning:
most large inspection firms hire Associate Home Inspectors. And many of these associates are out in
the field without being supervised. What this means to you, the home buyer, is that in many cases
items go undetected. The best reason for a home inspection is to avoid a money pit, just make sure
your inspector knows what to look for WE DO!.

Make Sure you hire a home inspector that is going to look out for your best
interests.

Home Inspection Services:

Standard Home Inspection

Pre-Purchase Home Inspections for Buyers
Pre-Listing Home Inspections for Sellers
Know the faults, if any, before you put your house on the market.
See Reason to get a Pre-Listing Inspection.
New Construction Phase Inspection
Make sure it's done right the first time!
End of Warranty Inspection
Don't let the 1 yr warranty expire on your new home without making sure all
covered items are working properly.
Annual Maintenance Inspections for Homeowners
Annual inspection can help identify any potentially serious or costly problems.

Indoor Air Quality Services:

Radon Testing - Testing is the only method to know your exposure to health
related issues, such as Cancer..
Mold Inspection - Moisture and Mold problem analysis and testing.

Competitive Prices: Check out Our Fees

Ease of Scheduling: On-line scheduling of home inspection - reserve your
appointment now. You will receive an confirmation email and a same-day follow up
phone call.

Check Schedule availability and Boo

Appointment

Experienced: Check us out ! Learn more about us and Our Services.

North and South Carolina Cites Served!

North and South Carolina Counties served: Mecklengburg, Iredell, Lincoln,Gaston,
Union, Cabarrus, Rowan, York, Lancaster, Alexander, Cleveland

Kick-out Flashing Missing

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 15:21:49 -0600

Kick-out flashing

Another blog pointed out the importance of flashing; this blog will be concentrated on one particular type of flashing, commonly known as 'Kick-out' flashing. Most buyers (and realtors) give me a 'deer in the headlights' look when I inform them that the kick-out flashing is missing.

Kick-out flashing is needed to prevent water from entering a wall. This picture is a classic example; note there is nothing to prevent rainwater from entering behind the stucco.

Now, here are two pictures of a different building that was in the process of installing Kick-outs after the construction.

So, next time a home inspector mentions 'Kick-out' flashing, remember these photos.

3 Things Buyer's Of New Construction Need To Know BEFORE Their Builder's Warranty Expires

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 15:15:51 -0600

New Construction

3 Things Buyer's Of New Construction Need To Know BEFORE Their Builder's Warranty Expires!

Over the years we hear Buyers of New Home Construction repeat the same three reasons over and over again as to why they didn't get a Home Inspection. Unfortunately they realize this after it's too late. Here's what they think:

Reason #1: I Trust My Builder!

The reality today is that most home builders don't even have tools and equipment. The fact is most new home builders are financiers and occasionally job site managers. Who actually builds your new home are the sub-contractors that the builder hires to do the work. So whether your new home is built correctly and complies with the current building code strictly depends on the knowledge and skill of the sub-contractors. And speaking candidly, the quality of the sub-contractors varies greatly.

Even though all of the parts of the house you come in contact with each and every day appear fine, there's a lot more to your house than meets the layman's eye.

Here's the real issue; were the mechanical and structural components of the house put together properly. And truthfully, most homeowners don't have the knowledge or skill to judge that aspect of a new home.

So here's what happens in many cases. You go to sell your new home sometime in the future. The buyer hires a home inspector to evaluate the property for them. And low and behold the buyer's home inspector finds lots of things that were done improperly by the sub-contractors and now the buyer wants you to make the necessary repairs.

So I'll ask you again, why should you pay for someone else's mistakes?

So here's the long and short of the matter: You Need An Independent Evaluation Of The Property By Your Professional Home Inspector To Protect Your Interests!

www.ahi-nc.net

Top Home-buying Mistakes

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 15:06:38 -0600

Top Home-buying Mistakes

"You can't build a good house out of stumbling blocks."

With that fortune-cookie saying in mind, beware of the following common home-buying mistakes:

Real estate agents are very friendly. That's a major part of their job. In the course of shopping for a house, a home buyer spends a lot of time with an agent. However, the wise home buyer understands who's working for whom. Unless the agent is an exclusive buyer's agent, then agents are working for the sellers. Most states require them to tell the home buyer this in the beginning, but it's easy to forget.

If an agent's potential dual role is a concern, a home buyer should hire a buyer's agent who is contracted to work for the home buyer. This doesn't cost any more than a traditional agent. A wise home buyer will agree to work with the agent for 30 to 90 days and is wary of anyone who insists on upfront fees or a long-term contract.

If the house is ideal, don't let the seller or any of the seller's agents know. If the seller finds out you're in love with the house, the seller could hold out for a higher price.

Understand your family's finances and needs. The wise home buyer will analyze assets, decipher debts and pull credit report before plunging into the house hunt. Understanding your finances prevents wasted time looking at unaffordable houses. Before making any offers, get pre-approved -- not just prequalified -- for a loan.

When making an offer, a wise home buyer asks for two important clauses -- a mortgage financing contingency and a professional inspection. These could save a lot of money and grief.

The mortgage financing contingency clause saves you if the home doesn't appraise for the offered price. You can cancel the sale and renegotiate the price or get back your deposit. The second clause hinges the deal on a professional inspector by HomeInspectionSpecialist.com If the inspector discovers hidden flaws, structural damage or faulty systems, the wise home buyer may want to renegotiate or back out of the deal. An even wiser home buyer goes through the house with the inspector to learn any concerns the inspector has.

Many home buyers stay focused on finding a home sweet home where their families will be happy and safe. You should also remember this is also a big financial investment. Take a moment to look ahead to the day you'll sell the house. Knowing the neighborhood and paying attention to marketable details of the house will go a long way toward preventing a buying mistake.

Some Facts about Inspection Services in Charlotte, NC for 2008

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 15:00:28 -0600

Some Facts about Inspection Services in Charlotte, NC for 2008

Current reports show that you might be considering buying a home, but national news reports cause you to be concerned, so you are waiting for the market to be better. You may have worries about finding a suitable mortgage, but at the Houston Housing Forum last year, leading lenders in Houston made it clear that such loans are readily available for qualified buyers. It has also been shown that you are using the internet more in your quest for a home. In part, this reliance on the internet has been to find the best value. In fact, finding the best deal has been the main goal of many buyers.

With these considerations, I noticed that there has not been much done in the way of surveys of the inspection market at this time, so I offer my humble opinion about this service for home buyers. I know that some facts are a concern for buyers, because I see the search terms that have been bringing people to my website and blog. Hopefully, I can answer some of the questions posed in these searches here, and that this will be a benefit to you.

Typical fees for an inspection in the Charlotte, Metro: after surveying my competitors, I have seen fees for a basic inspection starting at the range from $200 to $800. Why there is such disparity mainly is due to business decisions on the part of the inspection firm. Generally the price is determined by square footage, systems that are checked, and whether a full inspection can be performed (utilities have to be on for a full inspection).
Is there a standard for an inspection: yes. The state of North Carolina and South Carolina requires that all inspectors meet a minimum standard of practice, as specified in the codes regulating an inspection. The state also sets forth the format of a report for an inspection. All inspectors have to be licensed by the state to perform an inspection.
Do lenders require that you have to have an inspection for the loan? No. Although inspections are becoming a standard part of the home buying process, there is no requirement that an inspection should be performed. Many lenders are starting to recommend that an inspection be performed, but they will probably require an appraisal and a survey, both of which could be waved under certain circumstances.
Doesn't an appraiser and an inspector do the same thing? No. I do not know where the idea originated that appraisers and inspectors perform the same basic function arose, but this belief has become more prevalent recently. An appraiser does check the property, but in the respect of value. An inspector is more concerned with function and condition, as well as safety issues.
Do inspectors check for termites? We actually perform the Wood Destroying Inspect Reports as we are licensed to do so. Most of the time this is done by a professional pest control applicator, and it is presented in a WDI (wood destroying insects) report. Some inspectors meet the requirements to perform such an inspection, but generally this is done by two separate firms.
What exactly do inspectors check? Well the list is too long for here, so I would like to direct you to my website, http://www.ahi-nc.net.
What happens when a house fails an inspection? Houses neither pass or fail an inspection. All homes have concerns, and an inspector is simply pointing out those concerns to you.
Can I use my report to renegotiate the price of the home? Once you are in contract talks for the purchase of a house, you can attempt to settle for a new price for any reason, but it might not be a wise idea. Go over the report with your Realtor to see if there is a real concern that needs to be addressed. This may result in a lower price or some type of other resolution, but inspection reports are not meant for lowering prices.
How long does an inspection last? The length of time can really vary, but I think that you should expect a full inspection to last three to four hours.
When is the inspection performed? The discovery period is after the offer has been accepted till the day of the closing, which is around ten days in most cases. All of the inspections that you want to be performed should happen before closing, and you should make sure that you will receive the report before you are sitting down to sign the papers. Ask your inspector when will he provide you with a copy of the report.

These are the top ten items that come up in searches that bring people to me. If you have other questions, you can e-mail me at Charlotteinspector@gmail.com

GFCI Information

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 14:40:49 -0600

GFCI devices (ground fault circuit interrupter GFCI) is a modern electrical device, either a receptacle or circuit breaker, which is designed to protect people from electric shock. In the event of a fault in an appliance that you are touching, the current that passes through your body to the ground is detected and the circuit is shut off, protecting you from potentially fatal shocks. They are now required in new building in wet or damp environments.

GFCI Information

GFCI Info

THE GFCIA "GFCI" is a ground fault circuit interrupter. A ground fault circuit interrrupter is an inexpensive electrical device that, if installed in household branch circuits, could prevent over two-thirds of the approximately 300 electrocutions still occurring each year in and around the home. Installation of the device could also prevent thousands of burn and electric shock injuries each year.

The GFCI is designed to protect people from severe or fatal electric shocks Because a GFCI detects ground faults, it can also prevent some electrical fires and reduce the severity of others by interrupting the flow of electric current.

THE PROBLEM-Have you ever experienced an electric shock? If you did, the shock probably happened because your hand or some other part of your body contacted a source of electrical current and your body provided a path for the electrical current to go to the ground, so that you received a shock.

An unintentional electric path between a source of current and a grounded surface is referred to as a "ground-fault." Ground faults ground-fault. Ground faults occur when current is leaking somewhere, in effect, electricity is escaping to the ground. How it leaks is very important. If your body provides a path to the ground for this leakage, you could be injured, burned, severely shocked, or electrocuted.

Some examples of accidents that underscore this hazard include the following:

- Two children, ages five and six, were electrocuted in Texas when a plugged-in hair dryer fell into the tub in which they were bathing.

- A three-year-old Kansas girl was electrocuted when she touched a faulty countertop.

These two electrocutions occurred because the electrical current escaping from the appliance traveled through the victim to ground (in these cases, the grounded plumbing fixtures). Had a GFCI been installed, these deaths would probably have been prevented because a GFCI would have sensed the current flowing to ground and would have switched off the power before the electrocution occurred.

HOW THE GFC1 WORKSIn the home's wiring system, the GFCI constantly monitors electricity flowing in a circuit, to sense any loss of current. If the current flowing through the circuit differs by a small amount from that returning, the GFCI quickly switches off power to that circuit. The GFCI interrupts power faster than a blink of an eye to prevent a lethal dose of electricity. You may receive a painful shock, but you should not be electrocuted or receive a serious shock injury.

Here's how it may work in your house.. Suppose a bare wire inside an appliance touches the metal case. The case is then charged with electricity. If you touch the appliance with one hand while the other hand is touching a grounded metal object, like a water faucet, you will receive a shock. If the appliance is plugged into an outlet protected by a GFCI, the power will be shut off before a fatal shock would occur.

AVAILABILITY OF GFCIsThree common types of ground fault circuit interrupters are available for home use:

* RECEPTACLE TYPE

This type of GFCI is used in place of the standard duplex receptacle found throughout the house It fits into the standard outlet box and protects you against "ground faults' whenever an electrical product is plugged into the outlet Most receptacle-type GFCls can be installed so that they also protect other electri-cal outlets further "down stream" in the branch circuit.

* CIRCUIT BREAKER TYPE

In homes equipped with circuit breakers rather than fuses, a circuit breaker GFCI may be installed in a panel box to give protection to selected circuits The circuit breaker GFCI serves a dual purpose - not only will it shut off electricity in the event of a "ground-fault," but it will also trip when a short circuit or an ov.er-load occurs Protection covers the wiring and each outlet, lighting fixture, heater, etc served by the branch circuit protected by the GFCI in the panel box.

* PORTABLE TYPE

Where permanent GFCls are not practical, portable GFCls may be used One type contains the GFCI circuitry in a plastic encio-sure with plug blades in the back and receptacle slots in the f rant. It can be plugged into a receptacle, then, the electrical product is plugged into the GFCI. Another type of portable GFCI is an extension cord combined with a GFCI. It adds flexibility in using receptacles that are not protected by GFCls.

WHERE GFCIs SHOULD BE CONSIDEREDIn homes built to comply with the National Electrical Code (the Code), GFCI protection is required for most outdoor receptacles (since 1973), bathroom receptacle circuits (since 1975), garage wall outlets (since 1978), kitchen receptacles (since 1987), and all receptacles in crawl spaces and unfinished basements (since 1990).

Owners of homes that do not have GFCls installed in all those critical areas specified in the latest version of the Code should consider having them installed. For broad protection, GFCI circuit breakers may be added in many panels of older homes to replace ordinary circuit breaker. For homes protected by fuses, you are limited to receptacle or portable-type GFCIs and these may be installed in areas of greatest exposure, such as the bathroom, kitchen, basement, garage, and outdoor circuits.

A GFCI should be used whenever operating electrically powered garden equipment (mower, hedge trimmer, edger, etc.). Consumers can obtain similar protection by using GFCIs with electric tools (drills, saws, sanders, etc.) for do-it-yourself work in and around the house.

INSTALLING GFCIsCircuit breaker and receptacle-type GFCIs may be installed in your home by a qualified electrician. Receptacle-type GFCIs may be installed by knowledgeable consumers familiar with electrical wiring practices who also follow the instructions accompanying the device. When in doubt about the proper procedure, contact a qualified electrician. Do not attempt to install it yourself.

The portable GFCI requires no special knowledge or equipment to install.

TESTING THE GFCIs
All GFCIs should be tested once a month to make sure they are working properly and are protecting you from fatal shock. GFCIs should be tested after installation to make sure they are working properly and protecting the circuit.

To test the receptacle GFCI, first plug a nightlight or lamp into the outlet. The light should be on Then, press the "TEST" button on the GFCI. The GFCI's "RESET" button should pop out, and the light should go out.

If the "RESET" button pops out but the light does not go out, the GFCI has been improperly wired. Contact an electrician to correct the wiring errors.

If the "RESET" button does not pop out, the GFC1 is defective and should be replaced.

If the GFCI is functioning properly, and the lamp goes out, press the "RESET" button to restore power to the outlet.

009411
GPO: 1996 O-169-574

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Send the link for this page to a friend! Consumers can obtain this publication and additional publication information from the Publications section of CPSC's web site or by sending your publication request to info@cpsc.gov.

This document is in the public domain. It may be reproduced without change in part or whole by an individual or organization without permission. If it is reproduced, however, the Commission would appreciate knowing how it is used. Write the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Office of Information and Public Affairs, 4330 East West Highway, Bethesda, MD 20814 or send an e-mail to info@cpsc.gov.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from more than 15,000 types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. Deaths, injuries and property damage from consumer product incidents cost the nation more than $700 billion annually. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard or can injure children. The CPSC's work to ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters, and household chemicals - contributed significantly to the 30 percent decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 30 years.

To report a dangerous product or a product-related injury, call CPSC's hotline at (800) 638-2772 or CPSC's teletypewriter at (800) 638-8270, or visit CPSC's web site at www.cpsc.gov/talk.html. To join a CPSC email subscription list, please go to www.cpsc.gov/cpsclist.asp. Consumers can obtain this release and recall information at CPSC's Web site at http://www.cpsc.gov/.

Radon Gas

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 14:25:44 -0600

Download all four "Free"guides from CMHC and EPA

Home buyer's and sellers guide to Radon

http://www.epa.gov/radon/pdfs/hmbuygud.pdf

http://www.epa.gov/radon/pdfs/citizensguide.pdf

http://www.epa.gov/radon/pdfs/consguid.pdf

EPA Recommends:

If you are buying a home or selling your home, have it tested for radon.
For a new home, ask if radon-resistant construction features were used and if the home has been tested.
Fix the home if the radon level is 4 picoCuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher.
Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many cases, may be reduced.
Take steps to prevent device interference when conducting a radon test.

EPA estimates that radon causes thousands of cancer deaths in the U.S. each year.

* Radon is estimated to cause about 21,000 lung cancer deaths per year.

The numbers of deaths from other causes are taken from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's 1999-2001 National Center for Injury Prevention and Control Report and 2002 National Safety Council Reports

Radon Is a Cancer-Causing, Radioactive Gas

You cannot see, smell, or taste radon. But it still may be a problem in your home. When you breathe air containing radon, you increase your risk of getting lung cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General of the United States has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.

You Should Test for Radon

Testing is the only way to find out your home's radon levels. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.

You Can Fix a Radon Problem

If you find that you have high radon levels, there are ways to fix a radon problem. Even very high levels can be reduced to acceptable levels.

If You Are Selling a Home...

EPA recommends that you test your home before putting it on the market and, if necessary, lower your radon levels. Save the test results and all information you have about steps that were taken to fix any problems. This could be a positive selling point.

If You Are Buying a Home...

EPA recommends that you know what the indoor radon level is in any home you consider buying. Ask the seller for their radon test results. If the home has a radon-reduction system, ask the seller for information they have about the system.

If the home has not yet been tested, you should have the housed tested.

If you are having a new home built, there are features that can be incorporated into your home during construction to reduce radon levels.

The radon testing guidelines in this Guide have been developed specifically to deal with the time-sensitive nature of home purchases and sales, and the potential for radon device interference. These guidelines are slightly different from the guidelines in other EPA publications which provide radon testing and reduction information for non-real estate situations.

This Guide recommends three short-term testing options for real estate transactions. EPA also recommends testing a home in the lowest level which is currently suitable for occupancy, since a buyer may choose to live in a lower area of the home than that used by the seller.

1. Why Do You Need to Test for Radon?

a. Radon Has Been Found In Homes All Over the U.S.

Radon is a radioactive gas that has been found in homes all over the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home through well water. Your home can trap radon inside.

Any home can have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements. In fact, you and your family are most likely to get your greatest radiation exposure at home. That is where you spend most of your time.

Nearly 1 out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to have an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more). Elevated levels of radon gas have been found in homes in your state.

b. EPA and the Surgeon General Recommend That You Test Your Home

Testing is the only way to know if you and your family are at risk from radon. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.

You cannot predict radon levels based on state, local, and neighborhood radon measurements. Do not rely on radon test results taken in other homes in the neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your home. Homes which are next to each other can have different radon levels. Testing is the only way to find out what your home's radon level is.

In some areas, companies may offer different types of radon service agreements. Some agreements let you pay a one-time fee that covers both testing and radon mitigation, if needed.

U.S. Surgeon General Health Advisory

"Indoor radon gas is the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the United States and breathing it over prolonged periods can present a significant health risk to families all over the country. It's important to know that this threat is completely preventable. Radon can be detected with a simple test and fixed through well-established venting techniques." January 2005

2. I'm Selling a Home. What Should I Do?

a. If Your Home Has Already Been Tested for Radon...

If you are thinking of selling your home and you have already tested your home for radon, review the Radon Testing Checklist to make sure that the test was done correctly. If so, provide your test results to the buyer.

No matter what kind of test you took, a potential buyer may ask for a new test especially if:

The Radon Testing Checklist items were not met;

The last test is not recent, e.g., within two years;

You have renovated or altered your home since you tested; or

The buyer plans to live in a lower level of the house than was tested, such as a basement suitable for occupancy but not currently lived in.

A buyer may also ask for a new test if your state or local government requires disclosure of radon information to buyers.

b. If Your Home Has Not Yet Been Tested for Radon...

Have a test taken as soon as possible. If you can, test your home before putting it on the market. You should test in the lowest level of the home which is suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level that you currently live in or a lower level not currently used, but which a buyer could use for living space without renovations.

The radon test result is important information about your home's radon level. Some states require radon measurement testers to follow a specific testing protocol. If you do the test yourself, you should carefully follow the testing protocol for your area or EPA's Radon Testing Checklist. If you hire a contractor to test your residence, protect yourself by hiring a qualified individual or company.
You can determine a service provider's qualifications to perform radon measurements or to mitigate your home in several ways. Many states require radon professionals to be licensed, certified, or registered. Most states can provide you with a list of knowledgeable radon service providers doing business in the state. In states that don't regulate radon services, ask the contractor if they hold a professional proficiency or certification credential. Such programs usually provide members with a photo-ID card, which indicates their qualification(s) and its expiration date. If in doubt, you should check with their credentialing organization. Alternatively, ask the contractor if they've successfully completed formal training appropriate for testing or mitigation, e.g., a course in radon measurement or radon mitigation.
3. I'm Buying a Home. What Should I Do?
a. If the Home Has Already Been Tested for Radon...
If you are thinking of buying a home, you may decide to accept an earlier test result from the seller, or ask the seller for a new test to be conducted by a qualified   radon tester. Before you accept the seller's test, you should determinethe results of previous testing;

Who conducted the previous test: the homeowner, a radon professional, or some other person

Where in the home the previous test was taken, especially if you may plan to live in a lower level of the home. For example, the test may have been taken on the first floor. However, if you want to use the basement as living space, test there...

What, if any, structural changes, alterations, or changes in the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system have been made to the house since the test was done. Such changes may affect radon levels.

If you accept the seller's test, make sure that the test followed the Radon Testing Checklist.
If you decide that a new test is needed, discuss it with the seller as soon as possible.

b. If the Home Has Not Yet Been Tested for Radon...

Make sure that a radon test is done as soon as possible. Consider including provisions in the contract specifying:

Where the test will be located

Who should conduct the test

What type of test to do

When to do the test

How the seller and the buyer will share the test results and test costs (if necessary)

When radon mitigation measures will be taken and who will pay for them.

Make sure that the test is done in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means the lowest level that you are going to use as living space which is finished or does not require renovations prior to use. A state or local radon official or qualified radon tester can help you make some of these decisions.If you decide to finish or renovate an unfinished area of the home in the future, a radon test should be taken before starting the project and after the project is finished. Generally, it is less expensive to install a radon-reduction system before (or during) renovations rather than afterwards.

4. I'm Buying or Building a New Home. How Can I Protect My Family?

a. Why Should I Buy a Radon-Resistant Home?

Radon-resistant techniques work. When installed properly and completely, these simple and inexpensive passive techniques can help to reduce radon levels. In addition, installing them at the time of construction makes it easier to reduce radon levels further if the passive techniques don't reduce radon levels below 4 pCi/L. Radon-resistant techniques may also help to lower moisture levels and those of other soil-gases. Radon-resistant techniques:

Making Upgrading Easy: Even if built to be radon-resistant, every new home should be tested for radon after occupancy. If you have a test result of 4 pCi/L or more, a vent fan can easily be added to the passive system to make it an active system and further reduce radon levels.

Are Cost-Effective: Building radon-resistant features into the house during construction is easier and cheaper than fixing a radon problem from scratch later. Let your builder know that radon-resistant features are easy to install using common building materials.

Save Money: When installed properly and completely, radon-resistant techniques can also make your home more energy efficient and help you save on your energy costs.

In a new home, the cost to install passive radon-resistant features during construction is usually between $350 and $500. In some areas, the cost may be as low as $100. A qualified mitigator will charge about $300 to add a vent fan to a passive system, making it an active system and further reducing radon levels. In an existing home, it usually costs between $800 and $2,500 to install a radon mitigation system.

b. What Are Radon-Resistant Features?

Radon-resistant techniques (features) may vary for different foundations and site requirements. If you're having a house built, you can learn about EPA's Model Standards (and architectural drawings) and explain the techniques to your builder. If your new house was built (or will be built) to be radon-resistant, it will include these basic elements:

Gas-Permeable Layer: This layer is placed beneath the slab or flooring system to allow the soil gas to move freely underneath the house. In many cases, the material used is a 4-inch layer of clean gravel. This gas-permeable layer is used only in homes with basement and slab-on-grade foundations; it is not used in homes with crawlspace foundations.

Plastic Sheeting: Plastic sheeting is placed on top of the gas-permeable layer and under the slab to help prevent the soil gas from entering the home. In crawl spaces, the sheeting (with seams sealed) is placed directly over the crawlspace floor.

Sealing and Caulking: All below-grade openings in the foundation and walls are sealed to reduce soil gas entry into the home.

Vent Pipe: A 3- or 4-inch PVC pipe (or other gas-tight pipe) runs from the gas-permeable layer through the house to the roof, to safely vent radon and other soil gases to the outside.

Junction Boxes: An electrical junction box is included in the attic to make the wiring and installation of a vent fan easier. For example, you decide to activate the passive system because your test result showed an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more). A separate junction box is placed in the living space to power the vent fan alarm. An alarm is installed along with the vent fan to indicate when the vent fan is not operating properly.

5. How Can I Get Reliable Radon Test Results?

Radon testing is easy and the only way to find out if you have a radon problem in your home.

a. Types of Radon Devices

Since you cannot see or smell radon, special equipment is needed to detect it. When you're ready to test your home, you can order a radon test kit by mail from a qualified radon measurement services provider or laboratory. You can also hire a qualified radon tester, very often a home inspector, who will use a radon device(s) suitable to your situation. The most common types of radon testing devices are listed below.

Passive Devices

Passive radon testing devices do not need power to function. These include charcoal canisters, alpha-track detectors, charcoal liquid scintillation devices, and electret ion chamber detectors which are available in hardware, drug, and other stores; they can also be ordered by mail or phone. These devices are exposed to the air in the home for a specified period of time and then sent to a laboratory for analysis. Both short-term and long-term passive devices are generally inexpensive. Some of these devices may have features that offer more resistance to test interference or disturbance than other passive devices. Qualified radon testers may use any of these devices to measure the home's radon level.

Active Devices

Active radon testing devices require power to function. These include continuous radon monitors and continuous working level monitors. They continuously measure and record the amount of radon or its decay products in the air. Many of these devices provide a report of this information which can reveal any unusual or abnormal swings in the radon level during the test period. A qualified tester can explain this report to you. In addition, some of these devices are specifically designed to deter and detect test interference. Some technically advanced active devices offer anti-interference features. Although these tests may cost more, they may ensure a more reliable result.

b. General Information for All Devices

A state or local radon official can explain the differences between devices and recommend the ones which are most appropriate for your needs and expected testing conditions.

Make sure to use a radon measurement device from a qualified laboratory. Certain precautions should be followed to avoid interference during the test period. See the Radon Testing Checklist for more information on how to get a reliable test result.

Radon Test Device Placement

EPA recommends that testing device(s) be placed in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level (such as a basement), which a buyer could use for living space without renovations. The test should be conducted in a room to be used regularly (like a family room, living room, playroom, den or bedroom); do not test in a kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or hallway. Usually, the buyer decides where to locate the radon test, based on their expected use of the home. A buyer and seller should explicitly discuss and agree on the test location to avoid any misunderstanding. Their decision should be clearly communicated to the person performing the test.

c. Preventing or Detecting Test Interference

There is a potential for test interference in real estate transactions. There are several ways to prevent or detect test interference:

Use a test device that frequently records radon or decay product levels to detect unusual swings

Employ a motion detector to determine whether the test device has been moved or testing conditions have changed

Use a proximity detector to reveal the presence of people in the room which may correlate to possible changes in radon levels during the test

Record the barometric pressure to identify weather conditions which may have affected the test

Record the temperature record to help assess whether doors and windows have been opened

Apply tamper-proof seals to windows to ensure closed house conditions

Have the seller/occupant sign a non-interference agreement

Home buyers and sellers should consult a qualified radon test provider about the use of these precautions.

d. Length of Time to Test

There Are Two General Ways To Test Your Home for Radon:

Because radon levels vary from day to day and season to season, a short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to tell you your year-round average radon level. However, if you need results quickly, a short-term test may be used to decide whether to fix the home.

Short-Term Testing

The quickest way to test is with short-term tests. Short-term tests remain in your home from two days to 90 days, depending on the device. There are two groups of devices which are more commonly used for short-term testing. The passive device group includes alpha track detectors, charcoal canisters, charcoal liquid scintillation detectors, and electret ion chambers. The active device group consists of different types of continuous monitors.

Whether you test for radon yourself or hire a state-certified tester or a privately certified tester, all radon tests should be taken for a minimum of 48 hours. A longer period of testing is required for some devices.

Long-Term Testing

Long-term tests remain in your home for more than 90 days. Alpha track, and electret ion chamber detectors are commonly used for this type of testing. A long-term test will give you a reading that is more likely to tell you your home's year-round average radon level than a short-term test. If time permits (more than 90 days) long-term tests can be used to confirm initial short-term results. When long-term test results are 4 pCi/L or higher, EPA recommends fixing the home.

e. Doing a Short-Term Test...

If you are testing in a real estate transaction and you need results quickly, any of the following three options for short-term Tests are acceptable in determining whether the home should be fixed. Any real estate test for radon should include steps to prevent or detect device interference with the test device.

When Choosing a Short-Term Testing Option...

There are trade-offs among the short-term testing options. Two tests taken at the same time (simultaneous) would improve the precision of this radon test. One test followed by another test (sequential) would most likely give a better representation of the seasonal average. Both active and passive devices may have features which help to prevent test interference. Your state radon office can help you decide which option is best.

Short-Term Testing OptionsWhat to do Next

Passive:
Take two short-term tests at the same time in the same location for at least 48 hours.
or

Take an initial short-term test for at least 48 hours. Immediately upon completing the first test, do a second test using an identical device in the same location as the first test.

Fix the home if the average of two tests is 4 pCi/L or more.

Fix the home if the average of the two tests is 4 pCi/L or more.

Active:
Test the home with a continuous monitor for at least 48 hours.

Fix the home if the average radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.

f. Using Testing Devices Properly for Reliable Results

If You Do the Test Yourself...

When you are taking a short-term test, close windows and doors and keep them closed, except for normal entry and exit. If you are taking a short-term test lasting less than four days, be sure to:

Close your windows and outside doors at least 12 hours before beginning the test;

Do not conduct short-term tests lasting less than four days during severe storms or periods of high winds;

Follow the testing instructions and record the start time and date;

Place the test device at least 20 inches above the floor in a location where it will not be disturbed and where it will be away from drafts, high heat, high humidity, and exterior walls;

Leave the test kit in place for as long as the test instructions say; and

Once you have finished the test, record the stop time and date, reseal the package and return it immediately to the lab specified on the package for analysis.

You should receive your test results within a few weeks. If you need results quickly, you should find out how long results will take and, if necessary, request expedited service.

If You Hire a Qualified Radon Tester

In many cases, home buyers and sellers may decide to have the radon test done by a qualified radon tester who knows the proper conditions, test devices, and guidelines for obtaining a reliable radon test result. They can also:

Evaluate the home and recommend a testing approach designed to make sure you get reliable results;

Explain how proper conditions can be maintained during the radon test;

Emphasize to occupants of a home that a reliable test result depends on their cooperation. Interference with, or disturbance of, the test or closed-house conditions will invalidate the test result;

Analyze the data and report measurement results; and

Provide an independent test.

g. Interpreting Radon Test Results

The average indoor radon level is estimated to be about 1.3 pCi/L; roughly 0.4 pCi/L of radon is normally found in the outside air. The U.S. Congress has set a long-term goal that indoor radon levels be no more than outdoor levels. While this goal is not yet technologically achievable for all homes, radon levels in many homes can be reduced to 2 pCi/L or below.

Radon Test Results Reported in Two Ways

Your radon test results may be reported in either picoCuries per liter of air (pCi/L) or working levels (WL). If your test result is in pCi/L, EPA recommends you fix your home if your radon level is 4 pCi/L or higher. If the test result is in WL, EPA recommends you fix the home if the working level is 0.02 WL or higher. Some states require WL results to be converted to pCi/L to minimize confusion.

Sometimes short-term tests are less definitive about whether the home is at or above 4 pCi/L; particularly when the results are close to 4 pCi/L. For example, if the average of two short-term tests is 4.1 pCi/L, there is about a 50% chance that the year-round average is somewhat below 4 pCi/L.

However, EPA believes that any radon exposure carries some risk; no level of radon is safe. Even radon levels below 4 pCi/L pose some risk. You can reduce your risk of lung cancer by lowering your radon level.

As with other environmental pollutants, there is some uncertainty about the magnitude of radon health risks. However, we know more about radon risks than risks from most other cancer-causing substances. This is because estimates of radon risks are based on data from human studies (underground miners). Additional studies on more typical populations are under way.

Your radon measurement will give you an idea of your risk of getting lung cancer from radon. Your chances of getting lung cancer from radon depend mostly on:

Your home's radon level;

The amount of time you spend in your home; and

Whether you are a smoker or have ever smoked.

Smoking combined with radon is an especially serious health risk. If you smoke or are a former smoker, the presence of radon greatly increases your risk of lung cancer. If you stop smoking now and lower the radon level in your house, you will reduce your lung cancer risk.

Based on information contained in the National Academy of Sciences 1998 report, The Health Effects of Exposure to Indoor Radon, your radon risk may be somewhat higher than shown; especially if you have never smoked. It's never too late to reduce your risk to lung cancer. Don't wait to test and fix a radon problem. If you are a smoker, stop smoking.

Radon Testing Checklist

For reliable test results, follow this Radon Testing Checklist carefully. Testing for radon is not complicated. Improper testing may yield inaccurate results and require another test. Disturbing or interfering with the test device, or with closed-house conditions, may invalidate the test results and is illegal in some states. If the seller or qualified tester cannot confirm that all items have been completed, take another test.

Before Conducting a Radon Test:

Notify the occupants of the importance of proper testing conditions. Give the occupants written instructions or a copy of this Guide and explain the directions carefully.

Conduct the radon test for a minimum of 48 hours; some test devices have a minimum exposure time greater than 48 hours.

When doing a short-term test ranging from 2-4 days, it is important to maintain closed-house conditions for at least 12 hours before the beginning of the test and during the entire test period.

When doing a short-term test ranging from 4-7 days, EPA recommends that closed-house conditions be maintained.

If you conduct the test yourself, use a qualified radon measurement device and follow the laboratory's instructions. Your state may be able to provide you with a list of do-it-yourself test devices available from qualified laboratories.

If you hire someone to do the test, hire only a qualified individual. Some states issue photo identification (ID) cards; ask to see it. The tester's ID number, if available, should be included or noted in the test report.

The test should include method(s) to prevent or detect interference with testing conditions or with the testing device itself.

If the house has an active radon-reduction system, make sure the vent fan is operating properly. If the fan is not operating properly, have it (or ask to have it) repaired and then test.

Closed-house conditions means keeping all windows closed, keeping doors closed except for normal entry and exit, and not operating fans or other machines which bring in air from outside. Fans that are part of a radon-reduction system or small exhaust fans operating for only short periods of time may run during the test.

During a Radon Test:

Maintain closed-house conditions during he entire time of a short term test, especially for tests shorter than one week in length.

Operate the home's heating and cooling systems normally during the test. For tests lasting less than one week, operate only air-conditioning units which recirculate interior air.

Do not disturb the test device at any time during the test.

If a radon-reduction system is in place, make sure the system is working properly and will be in operation during the entire radon test.

After a Radon Test:

If you conduct the test yourself, be sure to promptly return the test device to the laboratory. Be sure to complete the required information, including start and stop times, test location, etc.

If an elevated level is found, fix the home. Contact a qualified radon-reduction contractor about lowering the radon level. EPA recommends that you fix the home when the radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.

Be sure that you or the radon tester can demonstrate or provide information to ensure that the testing conditions were not violated during the testing period.

6. What Should I Do If the Radon Level is High?

a. High Radon Levels Can be Reduced

EPA recommends that you take action to reduce your home's indoor radon levels if your radon test result is 4 pCi/L or higher. It is better to correct a radon problem before placing your home on the market because then you have more time to address a radon problem.

If elevated levels are found during the real estate transaction, the buyer and seller should discuss the timing and costs of the radon reduction. The cost of making repairs to reduce radon levels depends on how your home was built and other factors. Most homes can be fixed for about the same cost as other common home repairs, like painting or having a new hot water heater installed. The average cost for a contractor to lower radon levels in a home can range from $800 to about $2,500.

b. How To Lower The Radon Level In Your Home

A variety of methods can be used to reduce radon in homes. Sealing cracks and other openings in the foundation is a basic part of most approaches to radon reduction. EPA does not recommend the use of sealing alone to limit radon entry. Sealing alone has not been shown to lower radon levels significantly or consistently.

In most cases, a system with a vent pipe(s) and fan(s) is used to reduce radon. These "sub-slab depressurization" systems do not require major changes to your home. Similar systems can also be installed in homes with crawl space. These systems prevent radon gas from entering the home from below the concrete floor and from outside the foundation. Radon mitigation contractors may use other methods that may also work in your home. The right system depends on the design of your home and other factors.

Radon and home renovations

If you are planning any major renovations, such as converting an unfinished basement area into living space, it is especially important to test the area for radon before you begin.

If your test results indicate an elevated radon level, radon-resistant techniques can be inexpensively included as part of the renovation. Major renovations can change the level of radon in any home. Test again after the work is completed.

You should also test your home again after it is fixed to be sure that radon levels have been reduced. If your living patterns change and you begin occupying a lower level of your home (such as a basement) you should retest your home on that level. In addition, it is a good idea to retest your home sometime in the future to be sure radon levels remain low.

c. Selecting a Radon-Reduction (Mitigation) Contractor

Select a qualified radon-reduction contractor to reduce the radon levels in your home. Any mitigation measures taken or system installed in your home must conform to your state's regulations.

EPA recommends that the mitigation contractor review the radon measurement results before beginning and radon-reduction work. Test again after the radon mitigation work has been completed to confirm that previous elevated levels have been reduced.

d. What Can a Qualified Radon-Reduction Contractor Do for You?

A qualified radon-reduction (mitigation) contractor should be able to:

Review testing guidelines and measurement results, and determine if additional measurements are needed;

Evaluate the radon problem and provide you with a detailed, written proposal on how radon levels will be lowered;

Design a radon-reduction system;

Install the system according to EPA standards, or state or local codes; and

Make sure the finished system effectively reduces radon levels to acceptable levels.

Choose a radon mitigation contractor to fix your radon problem just as you would for any other home repair. You may want to get more than one estimate, ask for and check their references. Make sure the person you hire is qualified to install a mitigation system. Some states regulate or certify radon mitigation services providers.

Be aware that a potential conflict of interest exists if the same person or firm performs the testing and installs the mitigation system. Some states may require the homeowner to sign a waiver in such cases. Contact your state radon office for more information.

e. Radon in Water

The radon in your home's indoor air can come from two sources, the soil or your water supply. Compared to radon entering your home through water, radon entering your home through soil is a much larger risk. If you've tested for radon in air and have elevated radon levels and your water comes from a private well, have your water tested. The devices and procedures for testing your home's water supply are different from those used for measuring radon in air.

The radon in your water supply poses an inhalation risk and an ingestion risk. Research has shown that your risk of lung cancer from breathing radon in air is much larger than your risk of stomach cancer from swallowing water with radon in it. Most of your risk from radon in water comes from radon released into the air when water is used for showering and other household purposes.

Radon in your home's water in not usually a problem when its source is surface water. A radon in water problem is more likely when its source is ground water, e.g., a private well or a public water supply system that uses ground water. Some public water systems treat their water to reduce radon levels before it is delivered to your home. If you are concerned that radon may be entering your home through the water and your water comes from a public water supply, contact your water supplier.

If you've tested your private well and have a radon in water problem, it can be fixed. Your home's water supply can be treated in one of two ways. Point-of-entry treatment can effectively remove radon from the water before it enters your home. Point-of-entry treatment usually employs either granular activated carbon (GAC) filters or aeration devices. While GAC filters usually cost less than aeration devices, filters can collect radioactivity and may require a special method of disposal. Point-of-use treatment devices remove radon from your water at the tap, but only treat a small portion of the water you use, e.g., the water you drink. Point-of-use devices are not effective in reducing the risk from breathing radon released into the air from all water used in the home.

http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/citguide.html

The above link will direct you to the EPA website it is a very informative read!!

http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/ahc-asc/media/nr-cp/2006/2006_18_e.html

The above link will direct you to the Health Canda website for more info about Radon and it's affects.A downloadable guide is also available on the website. It is a very informative read!!

I will be offering this service for you in the near future check back for updates.

U.S. Surgeon General Health Advisory

"Indoor radon gas is the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the United States and breathing it over prolonged periods can present a significant health risk to families all over the country. It's important to know that this threat is completely preventable. Radon can be detected with a simple test and fixed through well-established venting techniques." January 2005

Reason to get a Pre-Listing Inspection in Today's BUYERS MARKET

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:21:23 -0500

Seller's inspection will virtually eliminate all the hassles a buyers inspection causes:

No more renegotiations.
No more deals that fall through when the home inspector finds a problem.
No more does the Seller have to deal with inflated cost estimates that costs him or her money.
No more will the agent spend countless hours and dollars in energy and advertising to get a contract that is "blown out of the water" by surprise defects.

Knowing what defects are present at the initial listing creates enormous benefits:

It will allow the agent and the Seller to discuss what items should be fixed and what should not.
It will substantiate your price, or may convince a Seller to rethink the asking price.
It will be full disclosure protection for the Seller and agent.
It will allow the Seller to shop around for the best price to repair (not an inflated price that a Buyer would use to make sure all is covered.
It streamlines the process.

How easy is selling a house with a Seller's Inspection?

After the listing is signed, a Seller's inspection is performed. If significant damage or defects are found, there will be disappointment, but no hysteria or regret. No deal about to go sour. The agent will discuss the problems with the Seller and will determine if this listing is "AS IS" with full disclosure, or if any repairs need correcting to expedite the sale. The Seller then corrects any problem areas, and calls for a reinspection of the home. The home inspector returns, cleans up the report, and uploads the revised report to the internet for your web listing link. Next, a buyer enters a contract agreement with the Seller. The Buyer will choose to trust the home inspection or, will have another inspection performed. The transaction proceeds as planned. Everyone is happy.

Less negiotions means more money in your pocket at the end of the transaction. Let's say the home is listed at $100,000 and the inspector finds $1,000.00 in repairs your commission check is just cut by $30.00 does't sound like much but every bit helps with today's gas prices.

Energy Efficiency Tips for your HOME!

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 19:21:33 -0500

Energy Efficiency Tips

How would you like to save money with minimal effort? And how would you feel if these actions made your home more comfortable, and were good for the environment?

1) You can do just that by taking these simple, cost-effective steps to quickly improve the energy efficiency of your home: That don't cost any money to do!

2) Turn off anything you're not using. Not just the lights, but any equipment or appliances such as televisions, VCRs, computers and computer monitors.

3) When using the clothes washer and dryer, do only full loads. Wash in cold water. Clean the dryer lint trap after each use.

4) Water heater: Lower the temperature to 120 degrees.

5) Refrigerator: Give the unit breathing room, clean the coils and don't set the temperature too low. Fresh foods keep at 37 degrees to 42 degrees, frozen foods at 0 degrees to 5 degrees. Unplug and recycle your second refrigerator.

6) Dishwasher: Wash only full loads in the dishwasher. Use the energy saver, air-dry cycle, or if allowed, open the door and let dishes dry naturally. If you have a dishwasher with its own heating element, set temperature to 140 degrees.

7) Turn off your lights whenever they are not needed.

8) Don't forget to close the damper when not using the fireplace. Turn your heater(s) down when using your fireplace.

Maintenance item to do monthly.

Air conditioner: Replace filters regularly. Maintain Your Air Conditioner's Filter. Clean or replace your air conditioner's filter monthly. Dirty filters block normal airflow and significantly reduce the efficiency of the system, which wastes your money.

Inspect your filters monthly!!!

Recommend Upgrades! Tip: Budget a small amount each month to purchase these items to make the purchases less painful if you are like me money is tight and with rise fuel costs thinks will only get worse. You can do what I did and start with the smallest purchase firsts.

1) Install Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs

If every American home replaced just one light bulb with an ENERGY STAR qualified bulb, we would save enough energy to light more than 3 million homes for a year, more than $600 million in annual energy costs, and prevent greenhouse gases equivalent to the emissions of more than 800,000 cars. Just think about how much you we save on energy cost if every home in america replaced all of the their light bulbs in their home's, appartments, and offices with these energy efficient light bulbs.

ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs

ENERGY STAR qualified bulbs use about 75 percent less energy than standard incandescent bulbs and last up to 10 times longer.

Save about $30 or more in electricity costs over each bulb's lifetime.

Produce about 75 percent less heat, so they're safer to operate and can cut energy costs associated with home cooling.

They are available in different sizes and shapes to fit in almost any fixture, for indoors and outdoors.

2) Install Low-Flow Water fixtures. Install low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators to save resources without sacrificing water pressure. An efficient showerhead will save a family of four about 27 cents a day on water and 51 cents a day on electricity, which adds up to $285 per year. Installing them couldn't be easier: they just screw on.

3) Install a programable Thermostats. Cost $30-$100 depending which one you buy. You could save 10% on your heating and cooling costs just by setting your thermostat back when you're not home and while you're sleeping. Program your thermostat to 78 degrees F or higher in the summer and 62 degrees F or lower in the winter. If you tell it to return to your preferred temperature before you return home, you won't ever know the temperature changed, until you look at the reduction in your energy bills.

4) Insulate your home properly: For energy efficiency, your home should be properly insulated from the roof down to its foundation. This includes the following areas: I inspect a lot of older homes that have insulation in the crawl space. Call your local insulating contractor and get you home up to date!

Areas to check for proper insulation techniques.

Attic spaces

Attic access doors to unfinished attics

Knee walls in finished attics

Ducts in unconditioned spaces

Cathedral ceilings

Exterior walls

Floors above unheated garages

Foundations

Basements

Crawl spaces

5) Install a Tankless Hot Water Heater: The energy savings of the gas tankless water heater translates to dollar savings for you and reduced impact on our environment. Typical savings are approximately 30% of your energy usage. Furthermore, a tankless water heater produces an endless supply of hot water, provided you size the unit appropriately. Point of use water heaters are also designed to last for 20+ years and can be mounted to a wall to save space. Plus tax credits are available from the us government. Typical gas unit cost $1000.00 Tax credit $300.00 the standard gas water heater cost $600.00 do the math: Only a $100.00 more you will save that in the first 6 months of operating costs. I don't understand why new home builders are not using this technology. I personally think that they should be fined for not building homes with energy efficient appliances such as these. Sorry I was on my soap box again.

See the US department of energy consumer guide for more information.

http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=12820

Typical items that show up on Home Inspection Reports.

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Mon, 16 Jun 2008 21:43:04 -0500

These are typical items that show up on reports. I decided to write this artical due the home inspection done today. It seems almost every home I go to lately has 3 atleast or more items from below. By checking these items, you can have a cleaner inspection on your home. Most of these items you can do yourself.

1. Smoke Detectors

Make sure that all smoke detectors are working. Smoke detectors should be installed within 15 feet of all bedrooms and there should be at least one on all levels of the home. Newer construction requires smoke alarms in the sleeping areas as well. To make sure this item doesn't show up on an inspection report, install smoke alarms outside and inside bedrooms and on all levels of the home no matter what the age of the home.

Hey Look Two Smoke Detectors - Neither Work

2. Loose Toilet

This is an item that shows up on most inspections. Stand in front of the toilet and put slight pressure on the front right side of the toilet and then the front left. If the toilet is loose you may be able to tighten the bolts. Don't over tighten, as it can be easy to crack the toilet. It is also possible that the toilet will need to be pulled up and have the wax seal replaced. You may want to hire a Plumber or Handyman to repair this item.

3. Lower Soil from Wood Siding at Least 6 Inches

Soil should be lowered from the wood siding or stucco weep screed at least 6 inches. When untreated wood and earth are very close, there is increased risk of wood damage from moisture and/or wood boring insects. Remove the excess soil, but in such a fashion to not cause water to stand against the foundation. Water should always drain away at least 3 feet from the home.

4. Cut Back Shrubbery or Remove Clinging Vines from the Side of the Home

any plant growing on a home may eventually damage the siding and other parts of the home. Clinging vines can also create an environment for insects/other pests and may hold moisture against the home. Also the inspectors may not be able to inspect the entire exterior of the home, due to limited access.

5. Clean Debris from the Roof and Gutters

Mini Forest Growing in the Gutters

Look below the plumbing vent

Excessive debris on the roof and in the gutters can limit the Visual Inspection. Typically the home inspector will recommend further inspection of the roof. It is best to use a blower to clean the debris off of the roof. Brooms or rakes can damage the roof shingles or granules. Use extreme care when on the roof. Roofs can be slippery. If you are hesitant about walking on the roof, hire someone to do the work for you.

6. Remove Debris under the Home

GOOD FOOD FOR WOOD DESTROYING ORGANISMS

Most houses have some scrap wood or debris under the home. This is always called out on a home inspection and termite report. We recommend that all debris be removed regardless of size. While under the home, be sure to check for leaks on water and drain lines. Also check for separated heating ducts (if present) and/or any other damage.

7. GFCI Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt

In the late 1990s, GFCI type receptacles were required in all wet areas. This would include being within 72 inches from sinks and exterior outlets, including in garages. Although these receptacles may not have been required when the home was built, it will show up on the Home Inspection Report as a recommended upgrade. These receptacles generally cost about $20 each. You may want to hire an electrician or handyman to install the receptacles.

8. Excessive Storage

It is not uncommon to find a garage or room full of storage. The Inspectors cannot see all areas of the room or garage (walls floors, etc.), be sure locks are off all electrical panels, sub-area doors and have all sub-area and attic access doors accessible. We will recommend a re-inspection if we are not able to do a complete inspection due to being inaccessible. This can cost the seller of the home extra money to have the inspectors come back.

9. Finally make sure all utilities (not just the electricity) are on at the time of inspection.

Home Marketing Tips

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Mon, 16 Jun 2008 17:35:53 -0500

Every home seller can benefit from some simple tips before putting his residence on the market. For example, a pre-listing inspection could help identify the components of the house that are most in need of repair - which will make the home unattractive to potential buyers. Homeowners who hire a qualified inspector will find it well worth their investment.

Here are the six common problem areas that are typically identified by thorough home inspectors. Early correction of these problems will increase the house's marketability (and its selling price!).

1. CHECK THE MAJOR SYSTEMS.

After size, style, and location, nothing will sell a house quicker than the good condition of the home's basic structure and major mechanical systems. A pre-listing inspection of visible and accessible home components can reveal problems in the structure and systems, and an inspector will recommend the necessary repairs. The most important components to consider are the roof structure and covering; the foundation, basement or crawl spaces; the central heating and air conditioning systems; the electrical and plumbing systems.

2. MAKE MAINTENANCE IMPROVEMENTS.

These basic, simple, and usually inexpensive improvements will make the home more appealing to buyers. After all, first impressions count, so make the home "drive-by perfect" by trimming trees and shrubs, applying new caulking or weather stripping as necessary, cleaning gutters of leaves and debris, and making sure all windows are free of cracks. Inside, the homeowner should replace bathroom caulk or grouting, ventilate closed basements and crawl spaces, regrade the soil around the foundation to keep water away from the house, replace dirty filters in the climate control systems and have the systems professionally serviced, and maintain chimneys, having them professionally cleaned and installing hoods or caps as needed.

3. PAY ATTENTION TO DETAILS.

Fixing minor problems as they occur will indicate "loving care" to the potential buyer. The homeowner should repair leaky faucets, tighten loose doorknobs, replace damaged screens and windows, repair driveways, repaint walls and ceilings, and make sure all railings are secure.

These simple steps will make sure the buyer doesn't leave with a bad impression.

4. TAKE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.

Inspectors pay attention to the items in the home that will help protect the dwelling and its occupants. Homeowners should install a smoke detector on each level of the home, keep flammable products away from water heaters, general heaters and fireplaces, and install Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters in wet areas, such as the kitchen counter tops and bathrooms.

5. MAKE COSMETIC IMPROVEMENTS.

In the world of real estate, looks do count, so homeowners should do all they can to assure their home is neat and attractive. Make sure the lawn is mown regularly, exterior walls and trim are clean, and the house is neat. Open windows and shades to let in light (which will give the home a bright appearance) and make sure those "hot spots" that buyers inspect closely - like kitchens and bathrooms - are up to the "white glove" test.

6. PREPARE FOR THE BUYER'S INSPECTION.

The homeowner should have house records on hand to answer questions easily and confidently. Appliance receipts, service records, and warranties should be easily accessible, as should information about all major components (heating, air-conditioning, carpeting, etc.). Also have copies of the latest bills on hand to give prospective buyers an idea of their cost.

HVAC Condensate Drain Line's

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sun, 15 Jun 2008 20:11:10 -0500

Condensate Trapping: Don't Get Caught in a Trap of Your Own! - From the Trane, Inc Website

Background:

The past 10 years have seen a dramatic change in the design and function of air handlers,

due in part to the challenges associated with indoor air quality (IAQ). Moisture in HVAC

systems is one area of concern since, if not properly managed, it can lead to the spread of

micro-organisms to the conditioned space. Sloped drain pans and antibacterial surfaces

and agents, coupled with regular preventive maintenance, can help prevent bacterial

growth. But if the cooling coil condensate drain in the air handler is improperly trapped

(or not trapped at all), any such efforts are wasted.

We will discuss some of the problems caused by improper trapping and will also examine

the differences between positive and negative pressure systems and proper trapping

procedures for each. In addition, we will identify some maintenance and system start-up

procedures that can cause trap failure, and explain how these problems can be avoided.

Trapping Design Flaws

A properly functioning (and properly designed) condensate trap provides for discharge of

water from the cooling coil drain pan, while the water seal (the water level maintained in

the trap) prevents the flow of ambient air into or out of the air handler. Several problems

result from improperly trapped systems, some of which can severely impact indoor air

quality. Our discussion will center on negative pressure systems, since trap failure in a

positive pressure environment simply results in air being exhausted through the drain

line. Under normal conditions, condensate runs down the coil fins and drips into a condensate

pan.

How to get a Seller's Advantage in a Buyer's Market !!!!!!

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sun, 15 Jun 2008 19:52:54 -0500

Pre-Sale Home Inspections Smooth Transactions

In today's buyer-friendly real estate market, a seller needs every Advantage he or she can get. One way to improve the position of your home in this marketplace Is to hire a professional home inspector to perform a pre-sale or pre-listing inspection. Armed with this information, the seller may opt to make repairs, or to disclose the defects and adjust the asking price accordingly. Either way, the potential for deal breaking discoveries at the tail end of the sales process is reduced.

As a seller, you might ask, "Why would I go to the extra expense of a home inspection when the buyer is going to hire her own inspector anyway?" The answer is simple. Anticipating issues that may be raised by the buyer's inspector can actually save you money and help you avoid every seller's nightmare - having the deal fall through at the last minute due to unexpected problems.

In the best of times, problems uncovered by the buyer's inspector can cost seller money and delay closing. In today's market, buyers can afford to be even more demanding. A buyer may Demand a reduction in price that is greater than the actual cost of repairs.

Or, if a seller is asked to make repairs, they will need to be made on the buyer's rather that the seller's terms and the seller will need to act quickly and will not have the advantage of shopping around for competitive bids from contractors. You could waste a lot of money by being forced into paying for a rush job at the last minute. By correcting problems in advance, your home is made more attractive to prospective buyers and repairs have cost you less.

Often it is not the severity of the defects, but the sheer number of defects listed that turns a buyer off.

If you choose not to make repairs, a buyer is more likely to accept a home "as is" if the defects are disclosed in advance and reflected in the asking price than if they are discovered after a price has been set and agreed upon. Also, an inspection report that reveals no major defects may help substantiate a higher asking price. A pre-listing inspection will help you to price your home correctly - an absolute must in today's market.

A pre-listing inspection adds credibility to a seller's disclosure and tells buyers that you are a conscientious seller. If a buyer is torn between two houses, they may feel more comfortable with yours.

If you decide that you don't wish to get a pre-listing inspection. You might as well take a trip to VEGAS. As, It appears to me you like gambling with your money.

The home inspector is going to find something. No mater how much you prepare your house, he will find something. Don't take it personally. Here are the top ten things to do before getting a home inspection.

Replace any light bulbs that are burned out.
Clean your gutters.
Trim any trees or branches touching the roof. 12inches of clearance recommended.
Caulk the joints on your trim around windows and door.
Make sure all your downspout have diverters under them.
Make sure your disposal and dishwasher are working properly.
Caulk around your tub and shower if needed.
Change your filters for you HVAC system
Make sure all your windows and doors open and close properly. Make adjustments as needed.
Remember all the stuff you dumped in the attic and garage to make your house more roomy. The inspector will need to get in there. Don't block areas that the home inspector will need to access.

For More information visit us online Http://www.ahi-nc.net

HOME TIPS

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Sat, 14 Jun 2008 13:46:20 -0500

Most of us store our tools out in the garage or basement. So, whenever a problem arises, we have to run out and rummage through tool boxes just to find one simple tool. Save yourself time and energy by assembling a basic home repair kit to store in your kitchen or laundry room.
All you really need is a large drawer in which to store your everyday tools.* Dividing the drawer into segments will keep it more organized- you can purchase an organizer or just look around for a silverware tray that you are no longer using. Small, lidded, plastic containers are excellent for storing nuts, bolts, and nails (use the clear type so that you can see what's inside).

Gather the tools and materials that you use most frequently. Here is a suggested list, add or remove items based on your individual needs.

Flashlight and extra batteries
Small hammer
Multi-tip screwdriver
Mini screwdriver set
Small measuring tape
Pliers
Wrenches
Heavy-duty scissors
Small level
Safety glasses
Assortment of nuts, bolts, screws, nails, and picture hangers
Various glues: glue stick, white glue, and superglue
Tapes: duct tape, packing tape, and masking tape
Adhesive remover/ Goo Gone

Labeling your tools will help ensure that they find their way back to your basic repair kit. Use a permanent marker to label each tool with "BRK" (Basic Repair Kit). Another idea is to color code your items- assign a color for the items in the basic repair kit and make sure everyone knows that the items of that color go back in the drawer. You can keep the drawer even more organized by affixing labels onto the organizing tray so that an item is returned to its precise location. Remember to keep all tools out of the reach of small children- attach a drawer lock if necessary.

*If you don't have a large enough drawer to house your kit, use a small tool box and place it on a shelf in the laundry room, pantry, or kitchen cabinet. Remember to label the contents as well as the outside of the tool box.

Hot Tip
Organize instruction manuals, maintenance schedules, warranties, and store receipts into one binder. Buy a three-ring binder and fill it with plastic sheet protectors. Then, place each booklet into its own protector and use dividers to organize the contents into sections. Include a calendar in the front pocket to note when certain maintenance or repairs were performed for a quick reference. Keep your binder in a central location near your home repair kit.

Garage Tools
Keeping your other tools organized in the garage really isn't as hard as it may seem. All that you really have to do is set up a system and stick with it. Here are some suggestions:

Use a tool storage unit with multiple drawers to store all of your tools. Label each drawer and replace items to the appropriate drawer after each use.
Employ a color coding system. Use tool boxes of various colors or use paint pens to code those that you already own. Designate each box for similar items; one for hammers, screwdrivers, and fasteners, for example. Then, color code the contents with the corresponding box. Remember to label the outside of the box with the contents.
Label shelving so that the contents get replaced to the appropriate spot. This saves a lot of headaches if you have several family members utilizing the tools.

Tip: Have an empty tool box or belt on hand at all times. Place all the items that you need for a job into the box/belt. This will save you from carrying several tool boxes inside and make it a snap to return them to the garage.

Quick Fix
Buy a couple of multitools and place them in several locations for quick fixes. These handy devices usually include a screwdriver, knife, pliers, and other helpful tools. Their compact form makes them ideal for your car's glove box, kitchen drawer, or laundry room.

Common Sense
Always use common sense when using any tool.

Use the right tool for the right job.
Do not use broken tools.
Do not use tools while under the influence of alcohol.
Unplug power tools when not in use or while changing parts.
Always keep a first aid kit on hand.

This information provided by HomeSavvy Magazine Online: http://ahi-home-inspection.homesavvymagazine.com/hometips.php

A HOME INSPECTION ISN"T

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Thu, 03 Apr 2008 16:41:29 -0500

A HOME INSPECTION ISN"T

It's important to understand the purpose of a professional inspection report. Contrary to some opinions, the inspector's role is not to identify a full list of repairs needed for the home, nor is it a list of uncovered problems that are the seller's obligation before the sale. Instead, the inspection report is best used for informational purposes, not as a binding obligation.

Many potential home buyers believe that an inspection report is a mandatory list of repairs for which the seller is responsible. It is important that your clients understand that, legally, this is not the case.

Sellers are not required - by law or by contract - to provide a flawless house to the buyers. Instead, the buyer should view the results of a home inspection as a list of repairs which need to be negotiated with the seller. Usually, the buyer will ask that some of the problems be solved or repaired prior to the close of escrow.

Typically a seller will agree to some of these repairs in order to close a particularly appealing deal.

However, sellers make repairs as a matter of choice, not obligation. Repairing building defects may help close the deal or foster good will between the parties of a sale, but it is not necessary according to the law.

On the other hand, sellers may refuse to repair defects uncovered in an inspection report. Except where obligated by state law, local ordinance or real estate contract, the seller is not responsible for these repairs and can refuse such demands. Contracts usually stipulate that fixtures be in working condition at the close of the sale. Other typical responsibilities include unbroken windows and that there are no existing or known leaks in plumbing or roofing.

Advise your client that, prior to making any demands of the seller, he should evaluate the inspection report and prioritize the problems of greatest significance. If a problem will compromise the health or safety of the buyer, it should receive greater priority than problems that are mostly cosmetic.

Most sellers will address problems affecting such areas as the roof, fireplace, gas burning fixtures and electrical wiring. Again, the buyer should not approach a home inspection as an opportunity to corner the seller with a "must-do" repair list. Instead, the main purpose of the home inspection report is to know the details of the home being purchased prior to buying.

It is inevitable that all houses have defects; even the newest homes are not perfect. However, a buyer should have a working knowledge of significant defects before consummating a sale.

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Current market conditions.

David Johnson (AHI Home and Building Inspection Services) — Wed, 07 Nov 2007 18:24:04 -0600

Current market conditions:

Its a buyer's market. However, we are seeing a slow down in the number of homes sold this year verse last yr.

The charlotte market is one of the strongest real estate markets in the nation. Sell that point!

Turn on the television or radio, or pick up a newspaper and magazine and you hear and read about the real estate bubble's burst! But, not in Charlotte. We may not have enjoyed the 25-50% appreciation that our coastal property and some other areas of the country have enjoyed, but we are not experiencing a depreciation in our home values. Also, homeowners are leaving the north because of cold winters, high taxes, 9/11, etc. and they are leaving Florida and surrounding areas because of the hurricanes. We are simply getting families from all areas of the country because they have heard about or researched Charlotte and all the things that this City and area offer.
Good homes in good neighborhoods sell quickly - many times with multiple offers. Sales are increasing now that we are enjoying this season's market.
3,457 properties were sold during the third quarter of 2007, (not including properties not listed in MLS). Sales prices ranged from $24,200 to $3,800,000, with an average sales price of $255,155.

According to the Charlotte Regional Realtor Association statistics, the average home sales price for September was $236,061,. The average sales price was up by 9.2% over the same period last year.

September sales totaled 3,067 out of approximately 23,018 listings, so it is taking about 7.5 months for the inventory to turn over, homes are taking longer to sell as we move into the winter market.

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