Mark's Home Inspection Blog

Insulate Your Home For Efficient Heating and Cooling in Northeast Ohio

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 18:39:15 -0500

So bloody hot right now, how could I be talking about insulation? Proper insulation in your home will help your house to stay cooler inside in the summertime as well as stay warm in the winter. For a house heated by gas or oil in this area (Ohio) these are the recommended levels:

Most older homes have between 3" and 6" of fiber glass blanket insulation. This is roughly equal to an R-value between R-9 and R-19.

Attic ceiling
R-49

Cathedral ceiling
R-38

Walls
Sheathing: R-5
Cavity: R-13

Floors
R-25

Crawlspace
R-19

Basement
Exterior Walls
R-12

Slab edge
R-8

Basement
Interior Walls
R-11

Main Cause Of Foundation Problems In Lorain County

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 11:53:49 -0500

With hundreds of inspections under my belt, mostly in Lorain county, I have found many foundation problems in the houses of this area. In both old and newer homes the main cause for foundation problems is poor drainage. Let's examine some facts:

Water that leaves your roof can cause all sorts of problems if it is not collected and piped away from the house. An average one floor house might have approximately 2,400 square feet of surface area on the roof. When a storm produces one inch of rain, the amount of water draining from the roof to the ground equals nearly 1,500 gallons! Allowing this water to simply collect near the house or discharge from down spouts onto simple splash blocks at the base of a foundation is asking for trouble.

Let's face it, your basement is just a big hole in the ground. If you dig a hole in your yard, you will notice that it fills with water every time it rains. This is because it is the easiest place for water to go. You have heard the old saying that water will take the path of least resistance. Even if your basement has been waterproofed, if water is allowed to pool around your foundation constantly, it WILL eventually find a way in. Many inspections that I have done reveal the downspouts discharging directly onto the ground (usually way too close to the foundation). If the house does not have drain tiles installed around the footers, it will eventually begin to push the foundation in. Another major issue is that most properties do not have enough slope AWAY from the house's foundation. In many cases, the slope of the property is actually towards the foundation!

Let me bottom line this...

Take any roof run-off and property drainage and make it go away from your house -- far away. If water does not drain away from your house, it will eventually damage your foudation. That's the facts!

Buying a House in Lorain County? Is a Disclosure Statement Enough?

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 11:22:17 -0500

If you are buying a house, the sellers provide a disclosure statement listing any "known defects" that they are aware of. Is this Disclosure Statement enough assurance that the house is in good condition? Here is what the Ohio Code says about disclosure statements (in part):

Prior to July 1, 1993, the director of commerce, by rule adopted in accordance with Chapter 119. of the Revised Code, shall prescribe the disclosure form to be completed by transferors. The form prescribed by the director shall be designed to permit the transferor to disclose material matters relating to the physical condition of the property to be transferred, including, but not limited to, the source of water supply to the property the nature of the sewer system serving the property; the condition of the structure of the property, including the roof, foundation, walls, and floors; the presence of hazardous materials or substances, including lead-based paint, asbestos, urea-formaldehyde foam insulation, and radon gas; and any material defects in the property that are within the actual knowledge of the transferor. The form also shall set forth a statement of the purpose of the form, including statements substantially similar to the following: that the form constitutes a statement of the conditions of the property and of information concerning the property actually known by the transferor; that, unless the transferee is otherwise advised in writing, the transferor, other than having lived at or owning the property, possesses no greater knowledge than that which could be obtained by a careful inspection of the property by a potential transferee; that the statement is not a warranty of any kind by the transferor or by any agent or subagent representing the transferor in this transaction; that the statement is not a substitute for any inspections; that the transferee is encouraged to obtain his/her own professional inspection; that the representations are made by the transferor and are not the representations of the transferor's agent or subagent; and that the form and the representations contained therein are provided by the transferor exclusively to potential transferees in a transfer made by the transferor, and are not made to transferees in any subsequent transfers. The form shall include instructions to the transferor for completing the form, space in which the transferor or transferors shall sign and date the form, and space in which the transferee or transferees shall sign and date the form acknowledging receipt of a copy of the form and stating that the transferee or transferees understand the purpose of the form as stated thereon.

You can see from this brief excerpt from the Ohio Code that a disclosure statement is not a substitute for a professional Home Inspection. It provides that neither the seller, nor the buyer, can be expected to have the training or knowledge to accurately include or exclude any known defects. It further states that the buyer should get a professional Home Inspection. Without a professional Home Inspection, a buyer is basically purchasing the house "as-is".

Aluminum Wiring Safety Hazard In Homes Built In The 1960's & Early 1970's

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 10:28:46 -0500

If you are looking to purchase a house that was built during the 1960's through the early 1970's, it probably was wired with aluminum wiring. This type of wire has proven to be inferior and needs to be inspected by a professional to determine if there is a safety concern prior to closing. Here are the facts on aluminum wiring:

**Unless you are a professional electrician or Home Inspector, a homeowner should NEVER open service panels or try to inspect or repair any electrical device!

ALUMINUM WIRE RISK: The Aluminum Electrical Wiring Risks & Hazards Explained

Aluminum wiring, used in some homes from the mid 1960's to the early 1970's, is a potential fire hazard. How safe is aluminum wiring? According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, fires and even deaths have been reported to have been caused by this hazard. Problems due to expansion, or more likely micro-fretting and arcing at the connectors, can cause overheating at connections between the wire and devices (switches and outlets) or at splices. The connections can become hot enough to start a fire without ever tripping a circuit breaker!

The photos shown above are not the most dramatic catastrophes linked to fires caused by aluminum wiring. But these are conditions that are found in many homes with aluminum wiring, confirming that this is a real, common, and widespread hazard.

CPSC research shows that "homes wired with aluminum wire manufactured before 1972 are 55 times more likely to have one or more connections reach "Fire Hazard Conditions" than are homes wired with copper. "Post 1972" aluminum wire is also a concern. Introduction of the aluminum wire "alloys" in 1972 time frame did not solve most of the connection failure problems. Aluminum wiring is still permitted and used for certain applications, including residential service entrance wiring and single-purpose higher amperage circuits such as 240V air conditioning or electric range circuits. The fire risk from single purpose circuits is much less than for branch circuits. But it's not necessarily because of a "new alloy" as some folks assert. It's because there are enormously fewer connections (four or six rather than 30 or 40 per circuit) and thus statistically a smaller chance of a connection failure. These connections do still burn up, as indicated by field reports.

When was the house built or re-wired or when were circuits added? Homes built, rooms added, circuits rewired or added between 1965 and 1973 may contain aluminum wiring.
Don't assume that there's no aluminum wire if your house was not built during these years. Circuits may have been added, extended, modified using aluminum wiring. Or an installer may have had leftover aluminum wire and used it after these dates.
Don't assume there's no aluminum wire just because you find none in the panel. Aluminum may have been used for part of circuits or for some but not other circuits in the building.
At outlets and switches, look at stripped wire ends. Often simply removing the cover plate will give sufficient view. Be especially cautious if you see back-wired receptacles. It may be difficult to see if the wire is aluminum, but if it is, the smaller wire contact surface when this method was used may increase the risk of overheating or other failures.

In the attic look at the wire gauge or "size." Look for #12-gauge wires in the attic or other places where wiring is readily available. If you see only #12 and no #14, aluminum wiring may be present. Aluminum wire must be one wire gauge size larger for a given circuit than if copper was used. So while #14 copper wire is permitted on a 15-amp electrical circuit and since #14 copper wire branch circuits are common in homes, if aluminum wire was used for the same circuit it would have to be #12. Similarly, a 20-amp circuit uses #12 copper wire or #10 aluminum wire. Common residential lighting and electrical-receptacle circuits are 15-amp or possibly 20-amp (e.g. in a kitchen). So if you see only #12 or larger wires in the attic of your house look further to see if it's aluminum. The wire-gauge size is printed or embossed on the wire jacket. #12 does not guarantee it's aluminum, it's just more data to point in that direction.

The information above is not complete and just scratches the surface of the aluminum wiring issue. I have tried to include just enough information about the hazards of aluminum wiring to make home buyers aware of the situation. Please, if you are a homeowner or home buyer, DO NOT attempt to inspect or repair any electrical device unless you have the proper training. Your best bet would be to hire a professional Home Inspector or electrical contractor if you suspect that the house has aluminum wiring.

Chimney Safety BEFORE You Use Your Fireplace READ THIS

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 09:52:20 -0500

I know that it is still warm outside, and most of you are not thinking of burning anything in your fireplace yet. Before the cold weather kicks in, you should read this report from the CPSC:

Consumer Product Safety Commission

Chimneys: Safety Alert

CPSC Document #5017

In 1982, wood-burning appliances accounted for more fires, more fire deaths, and greater property damage than any other kind of heating fuel -- about 140,000 fires, 250 deaths and $257 million in property damage. These losses represented 20 percent of all residential fires in the U.S., 5 percent of all fire deaths, and 8 percent of estimated property damage.

CPSC research indicates that most wood heating fires involve the chimney and not the appliance itself. The majority of these fires are contained within the chimney and cause no damage to the house. The Commission is concerned, however, not only about the chimney fires that did ignite other parts of the house, but also about the potential future hazard from the continued use of chimneys whose structural integrity has been compromised by a chimney fire. This is especially true in light of the fact that many contained chimney fires are not reported to the fire services; in fact, consumers may not even be aware that a chimney fire has occurred.

Therefore, the Consumer Product Safety Commission is issuing a special safety alert concerning chimneys used with woodburning stoves, fireplaces, and fireplace inserts. The Commission urgently warns consumers to be aware of the potential fire hazards associated with these chimneys.

Now that the nation has entered the heating season, the Commission strongly urges you, if you have a stove or fireplace, to check the chimney for any damage that may have occurred in the past heating season. If it is difficult to examine the chimney, a local chimney repairman, chimney "sweep," or dealer can help. Have any damage repaired NOW.

Most fires involving either masonry or prefabricated metal chimneys occur because of improper installation, use or maintenance. The Commission staff has identified the following common causes of fires:

Improper chimney installation too close to wood framing.
Installation of thermal insulation too close to the chimney.
Improperly passing the stovepipe or chimney through a ceiling or wall, causing ignition of wood framing.
Structural damage to the chimney caused by the ignition of creosote (a black tar-like substance that builds up inside the chimney in normal use).

Structural damage to metal prefabricated chimneys that results in wood framing being exposed to excessive temperatures or leakage of potentially toxic gases to the interior of the home can take the following forms:

Corrosion or rusting of the inner liners of metal chimneys.
Buckling, separation of the seam, or collapsing of the inner liner of metal chimneys. (This can result from too hot a fire, especially in high-efficiency stoves and in fireplace inserts, or from a creosote fire.)

Structural damage also occurs in masonry chimneys, often associated with deterioration or improper installation of the chimney. The tile inner liner and the surrounding brick or block structure may crack and separate, perhaps as a result of the ignition of creosote that has built up in the chimney. Many old chimneys do not have a tile liner. If your chimney does not have a liner, the addition of a properly installed liner is advisable. Also, a clay liner should be sealed with refractory cement.

Even when the heating appliance is properly installed, people with either metal or masonry chimney systems should frequently check the chimney for creosote deposits, soot build-up, or physical damage. This involves only a simple visual examination, but it should be done as often as twice a month during heavy use. If you see heavy creosote buildup, suspect a problem, or have had a chimney fire, a qualified chimney repairman or chimney "sweep" should perform a complete safety inspection. They can arrange for any necessary repairs or creosote removal, which must be done before the heating appliance is used again.

There are products now available which, according to recent tests conducted by independent laboratories, show promise for reducing the production of creosote and harmful pollutant emissions. Advance wood stove designs appear to provide more complete combustion of the fuel. Catalytic combustors appear to achieve similar results, and are available with new stoves or as separate components which can be installed between the flue gas exit and the chimney connector of existing stoves.

The Commission advises owners of all chimneys to:

Be sure that the chimney and stovepipe were installed correctly in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and local codes. If there is any doubt, a building inspector or fire official can determine whether the system is properly installed.
Minimize creosote formation by using proper stove size and avoiding using low damper settings for extended periods of time.
Have the chimney checked and cleaned routinely by a chimney "sweep" at least once a year. Inspect it frequently, as often as twice a month if necessary, and clean when a creosote buildup is noted.
Always operate your appliance within the manufacturer's recommended temperature limits. Too low a temperature increases creosote buildup, and too high a temperature may eventually cause damage to the chimney and result in a fire.
Frequently look for signs of structural failure.

If you have had a fire or other safety problem with your chimney, or would like additional information, call the Commission's toll-free Hotline 800-638-CPSC.

008412

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Send the link for this page to a friend! Consumers can obtain this publication and additional publication information from the Publications section of CPSC's web site or by sending your publication request to info@cpsc.gov.

This document is in the public domain. It may be reproduced without change in part or whole by an individual or organization without permission. If it is reproduced, however, the Commission would appreciate knowing how it is used. Write the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Office of Information and Public Affairs, 4330 East West Highway, Bethesda, MD 20814 or send an e-mail to info@cpsc.gov.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from more than 15,000 types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. Deaths, injuries and property damage from consumer product incidents cost the nation more than $700 billion annually. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard or can injure children. The CPSC's work to ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters, and household chemicals - contributed significantly to the 30 percent decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 30 years.

To report a dangerous product or a product-related injury, call CPSC's hotline at (800) 638-2772 or CPSC's teletypewriter at (800) 638-8270, or visit CPSC's web site at www.cpsc.gov/talk.html. To join a CPSC email subscription list, please go to www.cpsc.gov/cpsclist.aspx. Consumers can obtain this release and recall information at CPSC's Web site at http://www.cpsc.gov/.

11 Month New Home Warranty Home Inspection Facts

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 09:41:47 -0500

If you've recently purchased a brand-new home, you're probably aware of the fact that your homebuilder's Warranty runs for one (1) year. Some builders can offer up to two (2) years of structural warranties. Perhaps you've already experienced a few problems with your home...leaking fixtures, a squeaky or off-level floor, sticking doors or windows, a pesky circuit breaker tripping without warning, one or more rooms that just don't seem to heat properly in the Winter months? Not sure if those concrete cracks you've seen in the basement are likely to result in structural problems or foundation and basement leaks?

When your builder makes an 11-month follow-up call, you'll be fully-prepared with my detailed Inspection Report. Instead of trying to remember what you wanted to bring-up or discuss with your builder for correction before your Warranty runs-out, having a thorough, reference-quality Report at-hand will give you a ready-made list of concern items or defects for your builder to address.

Before your warranty expires, you should hire a professional home inspection company, like Certified Home Inspections to ensure that the following components are working properly:

Complete list of Inspected components includes:

General Building Attributes

Building type

	Tri-level
	Split level
	Ranch

Construction

	Frame
	Brick

Types of Utilities

	Water
	Electricity
	Gas
	Sewage

Landscaping

	Slope away from house
	Front yard
	Back yard
	Side yards
	Bushes and shrubs
	Trees
	Garden
	Drainage ditches
	Wooded areas*
	Pond*
	Playground*

Pavements and constructs

	Sidewalks
	Driveway
	Front porch
	Rear porch
	Deck
	Patio
	Fence
	Curbs
	Retaining walls
	Courtyard
	Gazebo*
	Culvert
	Playground equipment*

Roof

	Roof structure
	Roof covering
	Remaining life estimate
	Slope
	Chimney
	Gutters and downspouts
	Ventilation
	Roof penetrations
	Flashings

General Structure

	Siding
	Foundation
	Windows and doors
	Fascia, soffits and trim
	Outdoor faucets

Garages, sheds and outbuildings

	Overhead door
	Door opener
	Safety eyes
	Overhead door spring
	Floor
	GFCI outlets

Attic

	Access
	Structure
	Floor
	Lighting
	Insulation
	Moisture
	Attic baffles
	Fans

Bedrooms

	Location
	Electrical outlets
	Walls and ceilings
	Floors
	Alarms, detectors and sensors

Bathrooms

	Location
	Electric outlets
	Toilets
	Plumbing
	Showers and tubs
	Leaks
	Moisture

General Interior Living Spaces

	Floors
	Walls and ceilings
	Doors
	Steps and stairways
	Railings
	Fireplaces
	Alarms, detectors and sensors
	Moisture
	Whole house fan

Kitchen

	Floor
	Electric outlets and GFCI protection
	Plumbing
	Counter tops
	Cabinets
	Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors

Utility Room

	Location
	Walls
	Floor drain
	Moisture
	Floor
	Electrical
	Laundry connections
	Washtub

Plumbing System

	Main shutoff valve
	Piping
	Soil stacks
	Drains
	Sump pump
	Water heater
	Gas meter
	Water meter
	Service piping
	Water softener*

Electrical System

	Service location
	Main disconnects
	System voltage
	Main breaker
	Ampere rating
	Service type
	Bonding jumper on water meter
	Made electrodes
	Breakers
	CATV grounding
	Telephone grounding

Heating and Cooling

Heat source

	Forced air furnace
	Gravity furnace
	Electric baseboard
	Boiler

BTU output

BTU input

Humidifier

Service piping

Flue piping

Distribution

Air conditioning

Basement, Crawlspace and Slab

	Floor
	Walls
	Windows
	Floor drain
	Moisture
	Support beam
	Lighting
	Ventilation

Appliances

	Refrigerator
	Range
	Microwave oven
	Cook top
	Dishwasher
	Garbage disposal
	Central water filter*
	Clothes washer
	Clothes dryer
	Trash compactor*
	Room air conditioners*
	Sprinkler system*
	Whole house fan
	Central vacuum*
	Access control system*
	Humidifier*
	Incinerator*

Safety Devices

	Smoke alarms
	Carbon monoxide detectors
	Fire escape equipment
	Emergency exits
	Emergency lighting

Safety Concerns

Combustible gas leaks

Carbon monoxide leaks

	Furnace
	Water heater
	Fireplace

AND MUCH MORE...

* Not included in full inspection but available at extra charge

Lorain County New Construction Home Inspections

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 09:31:22 -0500

If you are building a new house, you may not feel the need to have it Inspected, however new construction can be done in a sub-standard way. Contractors have been known to "cut corners" to save in construction costs. Here are the facts of why you should get your new house inspected while construction is ongoing:

Building a new home can be an exciting and rewarding experience. A new home can deliver the right floor plan and finishes for you. It is a complicated project and huge investment. The support, advice and information that you will gain from a third party inspection is invaluable. Do not leave out this important step in the building process. It is well worth the investment.

Buyers of re-sale homes almost always have their homes inspected by a professional inspector. Buyers of new homes, however, often do not take this important step. There are several reasons for this:

	The buyer is getting a brand new home, and thinks that the inspection is an unnecessary added cost.
	The buyer feels that they are protected by the builder's one-year warranty for workmanship, plus extended structural warranty.
	In many cases, the home is inspected by city inspectors as a part of the permitting process.
	Buyers believe that they can rely on the builder's reputation.
	The builder is resistant to idea of third party inspections.
	Buyers are not aware that a home inspection is a recommended alternative.
	The buyer plans to "keep an eye" on the construction.

A Business Relationship

The construction of a home is a big project involving many contractors and suppliers. As the buyer and homeowner you are the financer and recipient of the final product. If you are like most people, this is your biggest investment. Understandably, most people want to establish a good rapport with their builder. They must rely on the builder throughout the job, and for warranty and service work after completion. They feel that they need the builder's friendship and good will, and do not want to risk damaging the relationship.

You will need to come to terms with this in your own mind. Do not allow your anxiety about the construction process to obscure the fact that you have a business relationship with your builder. You are working together under a contract. It is possible to be cordial and respectful, while maintaining the right to bring up problems and concerns. It is best to establish the ground rules for your relationship at the beginning of the project. At some point, you may need to tell the builder that something is not acceptable to you.

Schedule Inspections

Let the builder know at the outset that you will be getting a construction inspection. You may hear (from the builder or others) that this is
unnecessary, that city inspections will be done, that this is an unusual step, etc. Stand your ground on the inspection decision. After you have let the builder know that you will be getting an inspection, send an email or written note clarifying when your inspections will be done. Make it clear that you will need to have the utilities connected for your final inspection. Allow enough time after the final inspection for corrections to be made before closing. Check with your inspector about which inspections he recommends. The three that I offer are:

	Foundation
	Pre-sheetrock
	Final Inspection.

Foundation Inspection

With some complicated foundations, you should have an engineer review the construction as it progresses. In other cases, a licensed inspector can do the job. Usually, city inspectors do a layout inspection, making sure the foundation does not overlap building lines. Whether or not you are in a city, ask your inspector to double check this. Ask for a copy of the "forms survey", if the builder has one. If a forms survey has not been done, carefully measure from the property lines. If there is some doubt about whether the structure encroaches over building lines, have a survey done before proceeding. In addition to the layout, the inspector will check the steel content, depth of footings, post tension cables, and other parts of the foundation.

Pre-Sheetrock Inspection

Most builders invite the homeowner to do a walk through after framing, HVAC and plumbing rough-in, and electrical wiring are complete. This is a good time to look at your outlet locations and window and door placements. Make sure that any changes in the plans have been picked up and made by the sub contractors.

While you check for layout items, your home inspector can look closely at the construction. His report might include: broken plumbing lines, improper flashing, cut or bowed studs, inadequate bracing, beams that over-span their strength, AC ducts that are crushed, etc. These items are easy to correct at this point, before sheetrock and finish materials are installed.

It is not realistic to expect the construction to check out perfectly. Every builder in every price range will have some items to correct, both from the city and the third party inspector. Let your builder know that you will provide him with the report immediately, so that he can address the items before the walls are closed up.

Final Inspection

You will need to have all utilities on in order to complete this inspection. Normally, the builder requests a "walk-thru" inspection with you when the house is substantially complete. If utilities are on, you could schedule your inspector at this time. You can focus on paint and touch up items, while your inspector conducts a more thorough inspection, checking for leaks, non functional outlets, final grading of the lot, flashing problems, appliance operation, voids in mortar, etc.

10 Reasons to have your New Construction Inspected

	Fewer big new housing developments and more tear-down and build up houses
	Small builders who build 3 to 4 houses a year
	New, inexperienced general contractors
	Less expensive and inexperienced labor pool
	New materials and technologies
	Wide difference in building codes between different municipalities
	No more arguing and dispute over what is covered by the warranty and what is normal wear and tear
	Client has a legally enforceable defect report based upon state standards and practices
	Inexpensive fixes are the rule. Most warranty defects are easily fixed. The inspector can help in this process
	The inspector can act as a mediator between builder and owner

What Should A Roof Inspection Cover?

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 09:24:24 -0500

Buyers in Lorain county should hire an inspector prior to closing. One of the most important aspects of a Home Inspection should include an intensive inspection of the roof. Here is what my inspection covers:

My roof inspection covers all aspects of your roof. The inspection requires that I climb on the roof. There are certain limitations to this policy, however. I cannot go on roofs that are covered in snow, recently (and still) wet from rain, or roofs that exceed either two stories tall or are pitched greater than 4/12. In these situations, the roof will be inspected from the ground or edge via binoculars. I will also inspect the roof in all circumstances (where accessible) from within the attic. Certain inspectors will not go on any roof at any time. I feel that the best way to inspect anything is to get as close as possible. Many problems are very small when they start, and are therefore harder to see the farther away you get from them. All of the items detailed in the diagram above will be inspected to the best of my ability. If any limitations to the inspection were encountered, it will be noted in your report.

The question that I am asked most often is "How's the roof?" This is a loaded question, of course, and I will attempt to describe the condition of all the roof components clearly and precisely. To just say that the roof is good, or bad, does not cover it. I will go over my findings with you after the inspection and describe in detail what I noticed. I will give you an estimated life expectancy on the roof but keep in mind these factors:

	All roofs will leak eventually
	Any roof penetration (chimneys, plumbing stacks, skylights, etc.) increase the potential for a leak

The exposure of the roof and pitch will affect its' lifespan

Southern exposures will fail faster

The less pitch (or angle) of the roof, the faster it will fail

Skylights will always leak, eventually

Skylights that were installed as part of the original construction are better

Skylights that have been added after original construction are more likely to leak

Flush mounted skylights are not as good as raised ones

Different roof covering materials have different life spans

Slate tiles last the longest (up to 100 years or more) but the other components won't last as long

Clay tiles last as long as slate, with an indefinite life expectancy, however the fasteners and joiners will not last nearly as long

Concrete tiles can last up to 50 years or more

Fiber cement (mostly made with asbestos) can last 30 to 50 year

Metal roofs can last from 25 to 50 years

Wood shingles and shakes can last from 10 to 60 years

Asphalt shingles (the most common by far) will last from 15 to 25 years normally

Multiple layers reduce the life expectancy dramatically

Exposure plays a big part in the life expectancy

This is a quick course in roofing 101. There are hundreds of variables that contribute to the condition and life expectancy of roofs, however, these are the main ones. Your report will describe each of these items.

Although I do recommend a full inspection of the property (it is your best value) if all that you require is an inspection of the roof, I can accommodate your needs.

Why use Certified Home Inspections in Lorain, Cuyahoga & Medina counties

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 09:01:56 -0500

I would sincerely like to offer my services to both you and your clients. Please read the information below to see how I can benefit your clients and help you to streamline your transactions. I will not "talk down" to your clients and will do everything in my power to not only expedite scheduled Inspections in a timely manner, but ensure that your clients are completely satisfied with my services.

What separates me from the others:
I am there to help, not to hinder...

I will be available to both you and your clients 7 days a week and evenings to accommodate your schedule. I will never "blow you off" for an easier or more profitable job. If you need an Inspection done immediately, I will somehow fit it in and I will never rush the job because I'm busy. If your clients have a question, I will be glad to answer it, and will even come to their house to explain in detail how to solve any problem.

I will conduct myself in a professional manner and present myself in a professional manner.

	You do not want someone to roll up to the Inspection in a beat up truck wearing ripped jeans or shorts. You do not want an Inspector to look like an unshaven bum.
	You do not want your recommended Inspector to be a young kid that looks as if he just graduated from a vocational school and this is his first time.
	You do not want someone so old that they refuse to go on a roof or climb into a crawlspace. Nor do you want someone to show up in a white shirt and tie who might be afraid to get dirty.
	Any recommendation that you make for a professional, reflects upon you, no matter how much you try to distance yourself, and I will conduct myself in the same caring and professional manner that you have treated your clients and want them to be treated by others associated with you.

I will take the extra time to carefully explain everything in a calm and relaxing way. I will not belittle the home for minor cosmetic imperfections and will list defects according to their relative importance as far as minor or serious. I will consult with your clients and give them different options as to how to solve any issues that come up.

Bottom line-your clients are my clients. I will not consider any job complete until they are completely satisfied with my work. I will even return to help them solve any problems they may have.

Advantages to the real estate agent in recommending a pre-listing Inspection:

	Agents can recommend certified NACHI inspectors as opposed to being at the mercy of buyer's choices in inspectors.
	Sellers can schedule the inspections at seller's convenience with little effort on the part of agents.
	Sellers can assist inspectors during the inspections, something normally not done during buyer's inspections.
	Sellers can have inspectors correct any misstatements in the reports before they are generated.
	Reports help sellers see their homes through the eyes of a critical, third-party, thus making sellers more realistic about asking price.
	Agents are alerted to any immediate safety issues found, before other agents and potential buyers tour the home.
	Repairs made ahead of time might make homes show better.
	The reports provide third-party, unbiased opinions to offer to potential buyers.
	Clean reports can be used as marketing tools to help sell the homes.
	Reports might relieve prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
	Seller inspections eliminate buyer's remorse that sometimes occurs just after an inspection.
	Seller inspections reduce the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
	Seller inspections relieve the agent of having to hurriedly procure repair estimates or schedule repairs.
	The reports might encourage buyers to waive their inspection contingencies.
	Deals are less likely to fall apart the way they often do when buyer's inspections unexpectedly reveal problems, last minute.
	Reports provide full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

What sets me apart from the others/what can I do for you?

	I understand that your deal is time sensitive. I can usually schedule an Inspection for the next day after you or your client contact me. In some cases, I can get it done that very same day.
	Included in my Inspection Agreement is a "hold harmless clause" which protects you from any litigation that may present itself in the future.
	I generate my reports the evening that the Inspection takes place. You or your client will have the report in your hands by the next morning (if you elect to have rush delivery service).

Get a Home Inspection even if you are getting a great deal

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 07:45:27 -0500

With the rash of people literally poking the eyes out of sellers in Real Estate deals, the feeling that the savings they are getting on the selling price is swaying some people away from getting a Home Inspection. I have inspected houses in Elyria, Avon, Sheffield, Grafton, Lorain, Amherst, Eaton, in Lorain county, Medina county, Cuyahoga county that are only 10 years old in some cases. To look at them from a laymens perspective, these houses look to be in great condition. After inspecting them, I informed the buyers (in many cases) that they were looking at thousands and even tens of thousands of dollars in "hidden" defects.

Not having a house Inspected prior to closing could cost you plenty, if there are defects that you don't know about. Below is a sampling of some common defects that I see on a regular basis.

	Install interior drainage and damp proof basement One of the most common defects that I run across. Especially in older houses. Poor drainage causes more damage than any other fault. It causes the basement to cave-in and could bring down your entire house if not taken care of. On top of this, it provides the perfect environment for MOLD growth.	$8,000.00
	Underpin one corner of house I see a lot of this when inspecting a house that has had an addition added to it. If not done right, the addition starts to gradually fall away from the rest of the house because the foundation was not properly poured to begin with. If you notice step cracks in the blocks of the foundation of an addition, it is probably settling and pulling away from the rest of the house. The figure for repairs at the right is probably a low ball figure and will more often cost more.	$3,500.00
	Replace main beam I have seen quite a few houses where the owners have remodeled their basements and moved or completely taken out posts that hold the main beam up because they were in the way. If your floors creak or you notice a sag in the main beam, it needs to be inspected or replaced and shored-up.	$2,000.00
	Repair minor crack in poured concrete foundation Any crack in a foundation should be considered a big deal. Some cracks are due to minor settling, but foundation cracks are rarely limited to just a single crack. The figure at the right is to repair a single crack. A general rule of thumb is to add up all of the cracks for a total. Example - 8 cracks each 1/8" wide = a 1" crack!	$800.00
	Replace roof sheathing Depending on the size and complex nature of the roof, the figure at the right could double or triple! The roof is the umbrella that keeps water from getting into the house and prevents damage from moisture. Multiple layers of roof material cuts the life expectancy in half. Home buyers NEVER get up on the roof when inspecting the house themselves. So much damage could be caused by a defective roof, that EVERY home buyer should have the roof inspected.	$5,000.00
	Re-wire house up to standards Aluminum wiring was common in houses built 30 years ago. If you are looking at a house that is "only" 30 years old, it is probably in pretty good condition. However, without knowing what to look for, could cost you your life! Aluminum wiring had a problem of backing out of the connections and MUST be brought up to safe standards by retrofitting proper outlets and switches that reduce the risk of the wires backing out.	$10,000.00
	Install new furnace If the heat exchanger is bad, your furnace could be spilling toxic carbon monoxide into your home. The heat exchanger is pretty much hidden from view and unless you know what to look for, you have no idea if the heat exchanger is good or not. If the heat exchanger is bad, the furnace needs to be replaced.	$5,000.00
	Install new chimney liner Once again, the average home buyer (or seller) has no idea what to look for. Poor maintenance dramatically reduces the life of a chimney. At the very least, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected by a professional at least once a year. The chimney should be inspected and cleaned by every new homeowner prior to use.	$1,500.00
	Add insulation to standards Insulation issues are probably a bigger problem in older houses. If you buy a house in the warm weather, you may not notice it until it gets cold, and your entire house is drafty and cold. Many older houses also have newer heating systems retrofitted onto old ductwork. With poor ductwork location and insufficient insulation your heating bills could be a major expense.	$2,000.00
	Replace toilet Replacing any fixture can be costly. Plumbing fixtures (if bad) could cost much more than just replacing the fixture if they leak and damage other components. A bad hot water heater could cause thousands of dollars in damage if they dump their entire contents into the surrounding area.	$500.00
	Replace leaking skylight Once again, the roof sheds water off of the house and keeps the interior dry. If not properly installed, a skylight can cause a lot of damage in a short period of time. A general rule of thumb, is that EVERY SKYLIGHT WILL LEAK, eventually.	$1,500.00

Limited Time Offer! HOME INSPECTIONS only $200.00!

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 26 Jul 2007 15:03:06 -0500

THIS OFFER IS FOR ALL ActiveRain MEMBERS!

Limited Time Offer to residents of Lorain, Cuyahoga and Medina counties!
Book a Home Inspection by July 31st, 2007 and get the BEST PRICE around for a FULL HOME INSPECTION complete with a GUARANTEE on savings! For a limited time, you can have your house Inspected for HALF of what the other guys charge. The regular price of this service is $400.00. You will get a 50% savings if you book a Home Inspection by July 31st! Your 400 point Home Inspection will include inspection of the following components:
*Foundation and Basement
*Roof, Attic and Insulation
*Garage, Driveway and Sidewalks
*Structure and Siding
*Windows and Doors
*Plumbing and Electrical systems
*Heating and Cooling systems
*Walls, Ceilings and Floors
*Steps and Railings
*Safety Hazards
*Bedrooms, Bathrooms, Kitchen, Living Areas
*And Much More!
Full Home Inspection comes with Written Report complete with Photographs!

Check Out My Guarantee: I WILL UNCOVER AT LEAST $200.00 IN DEFECTS OR YOUR MONEY BACK!

FOR MORE INFORMATION:
Visit my Websight: www.certified-home-inspections.com
E-Mail me at: OhioInspections@yahoo.com
Call Me at: (440) 453-6954 (ask for Mark)

Print the Coupon and use it by July 31st, 2007:

Real Estate Agents -- Could you sell these houses?

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Tue, 17 Apr 2007 11:35:47 -0500

During the past couple of weeks of horrible weather in Ohio, I was given the opportunity to do a little Web-Surfing and came across some totally weird houses. I imagine that these houses are pretty special to the people that designed them and/or live in them but it got me wondering, could anybody else actually ever want to buy one of these creations? Feel free to share these with others and give me your comments on them.

Home Buyer's Quick Checklist

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Tue, 17 Apr 2007 11:05:25 -0500

If you are shopping for a new house, you should do more than just "look around" You should try and inspect the house thoroughly to determine if it is going to cost you money down the road. Of course, before you close Escrow, you should hire a professional Home Inspector to do a complete inspection. Below is a Home Buyer's Quick Checklist that you can take with you to your next viewing to help you find any obvious defects. If you want a printable version, one can be found on my websight at http://www.certified-home-inspections.com/ If you have any questions feel free to contact me at (440) 543-6954 or ohioinspections@yahoo.com I will be glad to help.

HOME BUYER'S QUICK CHECKLIST
*compliments of Certified Home Inspections LLC*

	ROOFING	EXTERIOR
	Not clearly visible	Cracks in brick veneer or masonry
	Shingles cupping or curling	Wood siding rotted, cracked, warped
	Shingles, slates, or tiles missing	Concealed areas behind shrubbery and vines
	Pieces of shingles, slates, tiles on the ground	Paint peeling or exposed wood
	Rusted or tarred flashing	Sheathing or siding bulging or delaminating
	Gutters or downspouts missing or damaged	Wood rotted on porches, decks, siding, trim
		Settled or shifted stoops or steps
	PLUMBING	Missing, loose, or hazardous railings.
	Water off
	Severe corrosion on main water line	ELECTRICAL
	Toilet loose or wetness on the floor	Power off
	Shower leaking into floor	Size of main breaker or fuse
	Water flow decreases w/2nd-3rd faucet on	Obvious or amateur repairs
	Mixed metals	Ground fault current interrupters
	Corrosion at water heater	Mixed metals in wiring (copper, aluminum)
	Slow drains	Aluminum wiring in branch circuits
	Evidence of leaks	Broken switches, receptacles, fixtures, etc.
		Exposed wiring, obvious missing parts
	HEATING/FIREPLACE	Bonding jumper on water meter, ground rod
	No fuel or power off
	Fails to Respond	AIR CONDITIONING
	Heat, soot, or smoke damage	Power off
	Rust or cabinet damage	Fails to respond or cool
	Damaged controls	Cabinet damaged, interior/exterior, blocked
	Obvious or amateur repairs	No filter
	No filter	Water in drip pan
	Damaged ducts or piping	Blocked condensate drain
	Damaged mortar or loose bricks in fireplace	Supply air very cold
	Insert or woodstove	Damaged ducts
	Flue or chimney leaning/cracked
	Weather damage to flue	INSULATION
		None or little
	INTERIOR	Uneven distribution in attic
	Floors not level, uneven	Falling out into crawlspace
	Floors not solid	Hanging / falling in crawlspace
	Doors stick, bind or drag
	Cracks at doors/windows	SITE
	Damage from abuse	Site grading slopes toward foundation
	Damaged appliances	Deep cracks or heaving in driveways / walks
	Hazardous stairs/rails	Evidence of floods, erosion
	Stained or rotted wood in attic	Damaged retaining walls
	Stains on ceilings	Damage caused by trees; including tree roots
	Joists / rafters severe splitting or cracking	Swimming pool, play equipment
	Smoke detector(s)	Toxic concerns


This quick inspection is not intended to be a substitute for a complete home inspection.
*Have your new home inspected. It's the best investment you'll ever make!*
compliments of Certified Home Inspections LLC
(440)453-6954 or (440)366-9501
Home Inspection Services for buyers and sellers in Cuyahoga, Lorain and Medina counties

Government Waste - Criminals on the Payroll

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 05 Apr 2007 12:35:31 -0500

It's a snow day for me YECH! So I thought I would share one of my pet peeves with all of you...

I wouldn't really mind if our government was spending their own money, however, it really get my dander up to see them wasting my money! Point in fact, I recently read about ex-congressmen that had been convicted of crimes that are still on the payroll. OUR PAYROLL! Since 1980, nearly 20 former members of Congress have received hundreds of thousands of dollars in pensions. As of 2006, they have received over $800,000.00 in pensions that came from your tax dollars. Here are some of the toppers from the list (makes my blood boil)

Former Rep. Dan Rostenkowski (D., Ill.)
Pleaded guilty to mail fraud in 1996 $126,000.00
Former Sen. David Durenberger (R. Minn.)
Misuse of funds (what a surprize) $86,000.00
Former Rep. Austin Murphy (D. Pa.)
Violating election laws $78,000.00
Former Rep. James Traficant (D. Ohio)
Corruption $40,000.00
Former Rep. Randy Cunningham (R. Calif.)
Bribery $36,000.00

Congressmen have pensions greater than any others in the private sector. Must be nice to vote for your own raises, salaries and pensions! And don't even get me started on expense accounts!

Surviving a Home Inspection - Tips from a Home Inspector to sellers

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 05 Apr 2007 12:02:41 -0500

Feel free to pass this information along to anyone that you think could benefit from it!

Surviving a Home Inspection

Depending on what side of the fence that you're on, a Home Inspection could be something that you welcome or dread. From a buyer's standpoint, it is an opportunity to lower the asking price of a house by having someone to nit-pick every little thing that is wrong with a house. From a seller's standpoint, it is like going to the dentist for a multiple root canal with no anesthetics. In fact, it is neither. Home Inspectors are only providers of facts. A good Home Inspector is neither for nor against the sale of a house. Lets face it, we get paid whether the house sells or not. Buyers probably stand to gain the most financially from a Home Inspection. However, sellers can gain too. If a seller knows in advance what a buyers' Inspector will be looking for, they can head them off and relieve a great deal of tension and anxiety. With that in mind, here is what I look for when inspecting a house, and what a seller can do to help to alleviate some of the negative comments that might appear on their report.

Of course, I am only listing the items that an average homeowner can look into themselves, and possibly repair with minor effort. Fixing these things will not eliminate the need for a Home inspection. I do not recommend doing anything that might be dangerous like opening your main fuse box to expose the internal wiring or climbing up on your roof to fix loose shingles. There are some things that you can inspect yourself and repair with minimal effort that will lessen the amount of listed defects in your report.

I will inspect the following components of a house:

I will check for proper drainage around the houses perimeter. The seller should make sure that the gutters and downspouts are in good working condition and do the job that they were intended to do. Clean leaves and debris out of gutters. Be careful! If you are not comfortable climbing on a ladder, do not try to clean your gutters, get a professional. Make sure that they are firmly attached and slope slightly towards downspouts. Make sure that downspouts are in good working condition and direct water towards storm sewers or at least discharge a minimum of 6 feet away from the houses foundation. You may need to purchase some downspout extensions (found in most hardware stores) to get the discharge at least 6 feet from your house. You want water to go away from your house, not settle around your foundation. Get a feel for the property and make sure that the surrounding areas around the outside of your house slope away from the foundation.
Trim your bushes and trees directly around your house. I will note in my report if landscaping is too close to the house and needs to be trimmed. Your house needs to breathe and if it's overgrown with bushes and trees that prevent proper air flow, it will show up on your report.
I will check the exterior siding. Seal gaps and shore up loose pieces. I will not comment on dirty siding (although the buyers probably will), I am only looking for places where water, air and pests can get in. On masonry, I will be looking for cracks and settling. Sellers should repair any mortar joints that are cracked. It is not expensive or hard to do. Your local home improvement store can help. If you are not sure about being able to do it, call in someone that can seal up any cracks. If you can see cracks in your masonry, you can bet that an Inspector will too, and I will mention it in my report.
I will be checking the doors and windows. Sellers should make sure that doors and windows are caulked around the edges and inspect them for possible leak areas. An hour of your time and a few tubes of caulk could save you from a host of negative comments in your buyers report.
While you are sealing cracks, you can also look for, and seal, any cracks you find in your driveway and sidewalks. You will need to use a driveway sealing type caulk.
Cracks in your foundation or basement walls? You can seal them, and should, as it will be noted in my report, but you will need the professional opinion of an Inspector to determine if they are minor or serious.
If your siding has come loose, or a tree branch knocked off part of you gutter, you should try to put it back in place. If the railings on your porch are loose, you should try to shore them back. If your outside steps are loose or worn, again, you should try to fix them. All of these things will be noted in my report.
On to the interior of the house. I will check doors and windows for ease of operation. Go around your house and open all the doors and windows and make sure that they operate smoothly. A small can of household oil for the doors and a bar of soap for the windows will help to lubricate them and get them working smoothly. If you have screens for your windows, round them up and either install them in the windows or put them where I will be able to find them. If your windows are supposed to have screens, and I can't find them, I will note this in my report.
I will check your smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors. Spend a few dollars and put fresh batteries in all of them. If you don't have a smoke alarm on each floor, go to the store and buy some! You should have a smoke alarm on each floor and they are not very expensive. If you don't have a smoke alarm on each floor, it will be noted in my report. You should also have carbon monoxide detectors anywhere that there is an appliance (gas furnace, gas water heater, fireplace, etc.) that could produce CO if it is not venting properly. Once again, if none are present where they need to be, it will be noted.
Check under all sinks for leaks--I will. This includes bathrooms, the kitchen and anywhere else that you may have a sink or washtub. Sometimes a fitting just comes loose a little bit and needs to be re-tightened. Check the drains and make sure that they work. You can usually unscrew the trap with minimum force and clean it out if there is a blockage. If something has leaked or is leaking, clean up the damage after you have fixed the leak. Make sure that you tell me that you had a leak but fixed it. It looks much better on the report to note that the problem is fixed rather than have me guess whether it is fixed or needs to be monitored.
Replace any burned out light bulbs. If a light does not work, I will note it in my report. An Inspector will not take a light fixture apart to see if it has a burned out bulb in it. They will note in their report that the light is not working. This could lead a buyer reading the report to think that there might be an electrical problem when it is only a 25¢ burned out bulb.
Replace any broken light switch or receptacle covers. I will note it in my report if there are any. They are dirt cheap, and every little thing that you can do to eliminate a negative comment on your report will help. If the switch or receptacle itself is broken, do not attempt to re-wire a new one unless you are familiar with electricity!
If you don't have GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets in your kitchen, bathroom, and other places where water and humans come in contact with each other, you will need to get some. It is a pretty big deal and you should hire an electrician to install them if you don't know exactly how to do them. They are required and I will note anyplace where one should be and is not in my report. You have to have them! You should even go around and test them, if you have them, to make sure they work, by plugging something into both outlets and tripping them. In 2008 it will be required to have AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter) outlets in bedrooms, but I will cover this at another time. Information can be found at: http://www.sea.siemens.com/reselec/product/rzafcifaq.html#1
Open the cover of your fuse box or breaker box and make sure that the fuses/breakers are clearly marked. Touch the fuse box with the back of your hand FIRST to make sure it is not hot! Spend the time to trip the breaker or unplug the fuse and determine what they protect. If you find any burned out fuses, replace them with a fuse of the same size. Even if you just write it on a piece of paper what each fuse/breaker protects, and tape it to the inside of the panel cover, it will help. If they are not marked, your report will list this as a defect. I carry fuse panel labels with me an will transfer the information to one and stick it to the inside--most inspectors do not--and no inspector will try to determine what each breaker/fuse protects and label them for you--they will just mark it on the report that the fuse box was not labeled..
VERY IMPORTANT--DO NOT take the cover off of the fuses/breakers themselves and expose the internal wiring! There is enough voltage in the box to kill you dead 10 times over! If the box is damaged in any way, has water in it, is humming or looks in any way to be unsafe, DON'T touch it! Call a professional to look at it or wait for the inspector to look at it.
Put a new furnace filter in your furnace, if it takes one. Once again, they are pretty cheap, but a dirty or missing one will be noted in the report. Make sure that there is no clutter or obstacles in front of the furnace, hot water heater, main water shut off valve, electrical panel, or other places where you know the Inspector might want to go. I will move a certain amount of clutter out of my way if I need to get to something, but a lot of Inspectors will simply write in their report that the area was inaccessible and won't inspect it. This does not mean that you should pile a bunch of stuff in front of something that you don't want an Inspector to look at! It puts up a red flag, and it really won't work.
If you have cars in your garage, you should pull them out so the Inspector can properly look at the garage and garage door opener. Once again, if an Inspector can't get to it pretty easily, they will note that they could not inspect it in their report. Even I will not move a car!
If your attic access is in a closet, you should take your clothes out and make sure that I can get into the attic. If you have attic pull down stairs, you should make sure that they work. You could even take a look yourself in the attic and try to determine if you have enough insulation. Your local hardware store should be able to help you to determine if you have enough. It varies greatly by type of insulation and climate. Try not to walk around in the attic unless you can do it safely, you could very easily put your foot through your bedroom ceiling if you step wrong. You could also step on a hot wire. You might just want to wait for the Inspection to determine what to do.
Ants in your kitchen? Although I don't do pest inspections, I did take extensive training at the Orkin Institute. Since I contract my pest inspections out to an affiliate of mine, I would probably only mention briefly in my report that I noticed ants. I can assure you that nothing creeps out a buyer more than seeing ants in the kitchen or bathroom! Pick up some Ortho Home Defense (my favorite) and spray it around the exterior of your house and around the interior baseboards. It works indoors and out. The stuff works great! It leaves no residue and is safe around pets and children. One application and your troubles are gone. Termites are an entirely different issue, and you can check my blog for an article on them.
There are other things that you can do to improve your chances of eliminating negative comments on your Inspection report. Most of them are common sense. If it is broken or loose, you should try to fix it before the Inspection. Anything that is broken or loose will be noted in your report and the more you can fix, the less negatives in your report. If it is going to be in the Inspectors' way, you should move it. Try not to cover anything up that you are worried that the Inspector will find. If an Inspector notices something that looks as though it is being covered to prevent detection, it sends up a red flag and further investigation is usually called for, even if the Inspector notes that someone else should look at it. Take a critical look around your entire house and see if it looks right to you. If it doesn't, it probably will be noted in your report. There are literally hundreds of other components that I will check during my Inspection, however, most are beyond the average homeowners ability to analyze and repair. If you can just accomplish some of the things that I have noted here, your report will have far less negatives in it. The more negatives you can eliminate from your report, the better off you are going to be, and these things I have listed are some of the more common and least expensive items to repair. However, if you ignore these, they will show up on your report!

Let me finalize by saying that Inspectors, as a whole, are not the enemy. We are merely messengers. We have the training and experience to know what is right and what is wrong. Personally, I am here to help everyone involved. If I do find something that is wrong, I will let you know how severe it is and give you my opinion on the best way to solve the problem. I have nothing to gain by nit-picking every little thing that is wrong with your house. I am only trying to make sure that everything is working the way it should and does not pose a safety issue or a financial issue for my client whether it be the buyer or the seller

Mark Taylor
CERTIFIED HOME INSPECTIONS LLC
http://www.certified-home-inspections.com/ .

Sell your home faster-Tips From A Home Inspector

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Mon, 02 Apr 2007 13:01:19 -0500

If anyone would like to pass these tips along to a client or associate, please feel free.

20 Steps to Help You Sell Your Home

1.       Make the Most of that First Impression
A well-manicured lawn, neatly trimmed shrubs and a clutter-free porch welcome prospects. So does a freshly painted - or at least freshly scrubbed - front door. If it's autumn, rake the leaves. If it's winter, shovel the walkways. The fewer obstacles between prospects and the true appeal of your home, the better.
2.       Invest a Few Hours for Future Dividends
Here's your chance to clean up in real estate. Clean up the living room, the bathroom, the kitchen. If your woodwork is scuffed or the paint is fading, consider some minor redecoration. Fresh wallpaper adds charm and value to your property (BUT KEEP IT NEUTRAL!). Prospects would rather see how great your home really looks than hear how great it COULD look, "with a little work."
3.       Check Faucets and Bulbs
Dripping water rattles the nerves, discolors sinks and suggests faulty or worn-out plumbing. Burned out bulbs leave prospects in the dark. Don't let little problems detract from what's right with your home.
4.       Don't Shut Out a Sale
If cabinets or closet doors stick in your home, you can be sure they will also stick in a prospect's mind. Don't try to explain away sticky situations when you can easily plane them away. A little effort on your part can smooth the way toward a closing.
5.       Think Safety
Homeowners learn to live with all kinds of self-set booby traps: roller skates on the stairs, festooned extension cords, slippery throw rugs and low hanging overhead lights. Make your residence as non-perilous as possible for uninitiated visitors.
6.       Make Room for Space
Remember, potential buyers are looking for more than just comfortable living space. They're looking for storage space too. Make sure your attic and basement are clean and free of unnecessary items.
7.       Consider Your Closets
The better organized a closet, the larger it appears. Now's the time to box up those unwanted clothes and donate them to charity.
8.       Make Your Bathrooms Sparkle
Bathrooms sell homes, so let them shine. Check and repair damaged or unsightly caulking in the tubs and showers. For added allure, display your best towels, mats and shower curtains.
9.       Create Dream Bedrooms
Wake-up prospects to the cozy comforts of your bedrooms. For a spacious look, get rid of excess furniture. Colorful bedspreads and fresh curtains are a must.
10.   Open up in the Daytime
Let the sun shine in! Pull back your curtains and drapes so prospects can see how bright and cheery your home is.
11.   Lighten up at Night
Turn on the excitement by turning on all your lights - both inside and outside - when showing your home in the evening. Lights add color and warmth, and make prospects feel welcome.
12.   Avoid Crowd Scenes
Potential buyers often feel like intruders when they enter a home filled with people. Rather than giving your house the attention it deserves, they're likely to hurry through. Keep the company to a minimum.
13.   Watch Your Pets
Dogs and cats are great companions, but not when you're showing your home. Pets have a talent for getting underfoot. Do everybody a favor: keep Kitty and Spot outside, or at least out of the way.
14.   Think Volume
Rock-and-roll will never die, but it might kill a real estate transaction. When it's time to show your home, it's time to turn down the stereo or TV.
15.   Relax
If you must be present at the time of your showing, be friendly, but don't try to force conversation. Prospects want to view your home with a minimum of distraction.
16.   Don't Apologize
No matter how humble your abode, never apologize for its shortcomings. If a prospect volunteers a derogatory comment about your home's appearance, let your REALTOR handle the situation. Better yet, never be present when buyers are.
17.   Keep a Low Profile
Nobody knows your home as well as you do. But your REALTOR knows buyers - what they need and what they want. Your REALTOR will have an easier time articulating the virtues of your home if you stay in the background.
18.   Don't Turn Your Home Into a Secondhand Store
When prospects come to view your home, don't distract them with offers to sell those furnishings you no longer need. You may lose the biggest sale of all (better yet, don't be present).
19.   Defer to Experience
When prospects want to talk price, terms, or other real estate matters, let them speak to the experts.
20.   Help Your Agent
Your REALTOR will have an easier time selling your home if showings are scheduled through our office. You'll appreciate the results.

Some of my own personal (and seldom mentioned) tips:

First impressions mean everything. Since it is Spring, spend a few dollars and buy some colorful flowers to plant in the front yard area. Don't over plant! You could even put some out back and around the sides (the buyers will take a look around). Put some high nitrogen fertilizer on your lawn and green it up-fast. Don't skimp-get fertilizer with the highest nitrogen content (the first number ex. 32-19-24) that you can find. Bring evergreens back to life and give them a rich dark green color by adding some Ironite^TM to them. It will especially help those wilted evergreens out by the street. In general, make the outside look as much like a "show yard" as you can.
You can't do too much cleaning. Nothing turns a buyer off more than dirt or grime. Get those cobwebs with a long duster on a pole and try to make everything sparkle. Especially kitchens and bathrooms. Hire a company to come out and clean the carpets. Put some fresh (neutral) paint on the walls. A few dollars and some elbow grease could add up to a fast sale and could net you many thousands of dollars more at the end.
Odors need to be eliminated. If you have pets or smokers in the house, people will smell them even if you don't. Musty smells indicate dampness and possible problems and are generally unappealing. Invest in some room air fresheners (like Glade® scented fans or Febreze^TM noticables) but don't do too many and try to find a light smell--not one that is overly perfumed or strong. I like the Glade® Hawaiian Breeze or Febreeze^TM Fresh Linen. These two products cost a little more, but they are well worth the extra cost.
Clean up the clutter. Do not let people view the "lived in look" in your house. It makes rooms look much smaller and turns people off. Throw it away or move it to your brother's house temporarily. Even if you are still living in the house, try to live with less. Don't just pack everything up in boxes and move it out to the garage either, rent a storage unit if you have to.
Don't let prospective buyers see a completely empty house. They want to visualize what their furniture would look like in the house and a few pieces of furniture will give them a better idea. Only put key pieces of furniture in the house, don't clutter it up! If you have to, rent some furniture from a store for a few weeks.
If it's broke, fix it. Replace broken items like switch plates, light fixtures, etc. You don't have to spend a lot of money, an inexpensive new fixture is better than an expensive broken one. Oil squeaky doors and re-attach anything that is loose. This is important--If you can't do the job as well as a professional would do it, don't just make an amateur repair job and hope that it will be good enough. If your buyer hires an Inspector (and they probably will), he will find it and recommend that it be repaired by a professional anyway. This will probably cost you more than if you had hired a professional in the first place, because he will have to remove your shoddy work before he can fix it the right way.
Invest in upgrades. By this, I mean, replace old worn out appliances and fixtures with new ones. It sounds like a pricey investment in a house that you are not going to be living in any more, but, new stuff attracts while old stuff detracts from the final selling price. Once again, you don't have to buy the best you can find. Even an inexpensive new stove, dishwasher, washer or other appliance looks 100% better than an old beat up one. Concentrate your efforts in kitchens and bathrooms, they are the real selling points of a house. Old flooring in kitchens and bathrooms are another major distraction for buyers. Replacing them is a very good investment (go with something neutral and easy on the eyes, no bold colors or patterns). I know it sounds like a lot of money, but every dollar that you invest, will mean ten dollars in your pocket at the end. If someone told me that I could invest $100.00 in something and get back $1,000.00 within a couple of months, I'd jump on it!
Finally, the number one thing that you can do to help you sell your house faster and for more money, Get A Pre-Listing Home Inspection.
- It allows you to see your home through the eyes of a critical third-party.
- It helps you to price your home realistically.
- It permits you to make repairs ahead of time so that ...
  a. Defects won't become negotiating stumbling blocks later.
  b. There is no delay in obtaining the Use and Occupancy permit.
  c. You have the time to get reasonably priced contractors or make the repairs yourself, if qualified.
- It may encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
- It may alert you of items of immediate personal concern, such as radon gas or active termite infestation.
- It may relieve prospect's concerns and suspicions.
- It reduces your liability by adding professional supporting documentation to your disclosure statement.
- It may alert you to immediate safety issues before agents and visitors tour your home.

Termite Facts

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Sun, 01 Apr 2007 19:56:33 -0500

Facts that everyone should know about wood destroying insects, especially termites...

Wood destroying insects and other organisms can cause serious problems in the wood structural components of a house and may go undetected for a long period of time. New Construction All chemical soil treatments, bait systems, and chemical wood treatment must be approved by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and applied in accordance with the EPA label instructions. In some cases it is not feasible for a builder to arrange for soil treatment. In this regard, the International Residential Code (IRC) by the International Code council allows a builder to utilize pressure treated wood as a measure of termite protection. If pressure treated wood is used, however, it must be used in all framing members up to and including the top plate of the first floor level wall. This includes the subfloor and floor joists of the first floor. The use of pressure treated wood in only the sill plate is not acceptable. In such cases, the builder must provide the lender with a letter stating that the house is protected from termites by the use of pressure treated wood. The builder must also provide the home buyer with a one year warranty against termites. The use of post-construction soil treatment where the chemicals are applied only around the perimeter of the foundation is NOT acceptable in new construction. Appraiser's Observations Appraisers are to observe all areas of the house and other structures/areas within the legal boundaries of the property that have potential for infestation by termites and other wood destroying organisms, including the bottoms of exterior doors and frames, wood siding in contact with the ground and crawl spaces. Mud tunnels running from the ground up the side of the house may indicate termite infestation. Observe the eave and gable vents and wood window sills for indication of the entrance of swarming termites and note excessive dampness or large areas where the vegetation is dead. Evidence of active termite infestation must be noted. Termites
Subterranean termites are the most damaging insects of wood. Their presence is hard to notice and damage usually is found before the termites are seen. Prevent infestations because if they occur they will almost always need professional pest control service. Signs of Infestation Generally, the first sign of infestation is the presence of swarming termites on the window or near indoor light. If they are found inside the house, it almost always means that they have infested. Other signs that may be found are termite wings on window sills or in cobwebs, and shelter tubes which are tunnels constructed by the termites from soil or wood and debris. Usually, wood damage is not found at first, but when it is found it definitely reveals a termite infestation. Anywhere wood touches soil is a possible entry into a home for termites. Examine wood which sounds dull or hollow when struck by a screwdriver or hammer. Inspect suspected areas with a sharp, pointed tool such as an ice pick to find termite galleries or their damage. Control Control measures include reducing the potential infestation, preventing termite entry and applying chemicals for remedial treatment. Inspection Inspect thoroughly to determine if there is an infestation, damage, and/or conditions that could invite a termite attack or the need fo remedial control measures. The tools and equipment needed for an inspection include a flashlight, ice pick or sharp-pointed screwdriver, ladder and protective clothing. Outdoors Check the foundation of the house, garage and other buildings for shelter tubes coming from the soil. Look closely around porches, connecting patios, sidewalks, areas near kitchens or bathrooms and hard-to-see places. Check window and door frames and where utility services enter the house for termite infestation or wood decay. Also look behind shrubbery or plants near walls. Pay special attention to areas where earth and wood meet such as fences, stair carriages or trellises. Open and check any exterior electrical meter or fuse box set into the wall, a common point of infestation. Indoors Carefully check all doors, window facings, baseboards and hardwood flooring. Discoloration or stains on walls or ceilings may mean that water is leaking and can decay wood and aid termite infestation. It is very important to inspect where plumbing or utility pipes enter the foundation or flooring. Also examine the attic for shelter tubes, water leakage, and wood damage. .

Prevention

Many termite problems can be prevented. The most important thing to do is deny termites access to food (wood), moisture and shelter.Follow the sugestions below.

	have at least a 2-inch clearance between the house and planter boxes or soil-filled porches
	elimiate all wood-to-soil contacts such as trellises, fence posts, stair casings and doorfacings (they can be put on masonary blocks or on treated wood)
	separate shrubbery from the house to help make it easier to inspect the foundation line
	use wolmanized wood (pressure-treated wood) so that rain will not rot it
	seal openings through the foundation
	remove wood scraps or stumps from around foundations
	have at least 12"-18" clearance between floor beams and the soil underneath

Chemical Treatment Termite treatment often requires specialized equipment. Therefore, it is recommended that you always use the services of a pest control operator because he is familiar with construction principles and practices, has the necessary equipment and knows about subterranean termites. Exterminating Termites

If you think you have a termite infestation in your house, you need to call a structural pest control company to conduct a professional inspection. To find a company, ask friends or coworkers for recommendations, or check the yellow pages. If the inspection finds evidence of drywood termites, you have several options, depending on the degree of infestation. Fumigation and heating of the entire house are the only options that ensure eradication in the entire structure. If the infestation is contained in a small area, local or spot control may be effective. However, hidden infestations in other part of the structure will not be eredicated. Total (Whole-House) Eradication For the heat method, pets, plants, and other items that might be damaged by high temperatures must be removed. The house is then covered with tarps, and hot air is blown into the tarp until the inside temperature reaches 140° to 150°F and the temperature of the structural timbers reaches 120°F. The time to complete this procedure varies greatly from one structure to another, depending on factors such as the building's construction and the weather conditions. The procedure may not be practical for structures that cannot be heated evenly. Local or Spot Control Local or spot control methods include the use of pesticides, electric current, extreme cold, localized heat, microwave energy, or any combination of these methods. Local or spot control also includes the removal and replacement of infested structural timber. These methods are intended to remove or kill termites only within the specific targeted area, leaving open the possibility of other undetected infestations within the structure. These treatments are NOT designed for whole-house eradication. Any pest control company that claims whole-house results with local or spot control methods is guilty of false advertising and should be reported. Local or spot treatment with pesticides involves drilling and injecting pesticides into infested timbers, as well as the topical application of toxic chemicals. The electric current method involves delivering electric energy to targeted infestations. For the extreme cold method, liquid nitrogen is pumped into wall voids adjacent to suspected infestation sites, reducing the area to -20°F. The localized heat method involves heating infested structural timbers to 120°F. The microwave method kills termites by directing microwaves into termite-infested wood. If you see the following signs in your house, you might have termites:

· sawdust-like droppings

· dirt or mud-like tubes or trails on the structure

· damaged wood members (like window sills)

• swarming winged insects within the structure, especially in the spring or fall

Average Costs of Home Repairs

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Sun, 01 Apr 2007 19:50:54 -0500

You can see from the information below that your new house could wind up costing you thousands of dollars if you don't know its' condition as well as you thought. The reasons for getting a Home Inspection become clear after you begin to add up what it could cost...

Average Home Repairs Needed

Home Repair Costs of Common Components

Roofing

(Typical min. service call $55.00 - $95.00)
Asphalt Shingles over existing 15-20 year lifespan $0.75-$1.20/square foot
Asphalt Shingles, remove old 16-25 year lifespan $1.15-$1.95/square foot
Wood shingles 15-25 year lifespan $2.50-$5.00/square foot
Cedar Shakes 20-35 year lifespan $3.75-$6.00/square foot
Tile, Cement, Slate 25-60 year lifespan $4.00-$10.00/square foot
Gutters/Downspouts 20-30 year lifespan $600.00-$950.00/home
Considering that the average roof for a 2500 square foot home is around 2000 square feet, you could easily spend $1500.00 to $20,000.00 to replace the roof covering materials and up to $1,000.00 for gutters
Heating and Cooling

(Typical Service Call $60.00 - $100.00)
Replace Forced Air 80,000 BTU 15-20 year lifespan $1,000.00-$1,800.00
Replace Forced Air 150,000 BTU 15-20 year lifespan $1,300.00-$2,000.00
Replace Boiler 80,000 BTU 20-30 year lifespan $1,800.00-$3,000.00
Replace Boiler 150,000 BTU 20-30 year lifespan $2,500.00-$3,500.00
Replace Heat Pump 8-10 year lifespan $2,000.00-$3,000.00
Replace Air Conditioner 8-10 year lifespan $1,500.00-$3,000.00
Replace A/C Compressor 6-10 year lifespan $800.00-$1,200.00
Replace A/C Compressor & Condenser 10-20 year lifespan $1,500.00-$2,000.00
How old is your house? Is your furnace or air conditioner nearing the end of its' life expectancy? It could cost you thousands of dollars to find out the hard way.
Hot Water Heater

(Typical Service Call $60.00 - $100.00)
Replace Hot Water Heater, 40-50gal 7-10 year lifespan $350.00-$500.00
Replace Hot Water Heater, 40-50gal 7-10 year lifespan $450.00-$650.00
Failure of a hot water heater not only costs hundreds of dollars to replace, but also has the potential of causing thousands of dollars in other damage if it ruptures or leaks without being caught right away.
Electrical

(Typical Minimum Service Call $50.00 - $125.00)
Replace Service Panel 30-60 year lifespan $800.00-$1,000.00
Install new 240v circuit 30-50 year lifespan $150.00-$200.00
Install new 110v circuit 30-50 year lifespan $95.00-$150.00
Correct reverse polarity 30-50 year lifespan $10.00-$25.00 each outlet repaired
Copalum splice to repair alum. wiring 15-45 year lifespan $18.00-$28.00 each splice repaired
Electrical problems of any kind are quite severe. They can not only shock (or even kill) someone but have the potential of causing a major fire which could reduce your home to ashes in a very short time.
Plumbing

(Typical Minimum Service Call $60.00 - $90.00)
Repair typical leak 30-50 year lifespan $60.00-$150.00
Upgrade old piping for 2-1/2 bath 30-50 year lifespan $1,500.00-$5,000.00
There is no such thing as a simple plumbing problem. A small leak could cost hundreds of dollars to repair and cause hundreds of dollars in additional damage.
Sewer and Water

(Minimum Typical Service Call $100.00 - $150.00)
Install conventional septic $3,000.00-$10,000.00
Install new seepage pit $500.00-$1,000.00
Install new drain field $1,500.00-$3,000.00
Clean out tank $75.00-$300.00
Drill 200ft well $2,500.00-$5,000.00
Install new tank $250.00-$800.00
Install new interior pump $350.00-$600.00
Install new submersible pump $900.00-$1,500.00
Sewer and water problems are not only health issues but tend to cause a great deal of extra damage (digging up property and flooding). It can get very expensive very quickly.
* Data presented depicts average lifespan and average cost to replace.
It is by no means to be thought of as quotes on any specific repair job.
For information purposes only.

Do you really need a Home Inspection?

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Sun, 01 Apr 2007 19:45:40 -0500

Do you really need a House Inspection?

Without a doubt, buying or selling a home is the largest transaction that you will ever enter into. With this in mind, you want to get the best value for your hard earned money that you can possibly get. A professional Home Inspection won't be able to tell you if the house you are interested in is a good deal or not. A Home Inspection will not condemn the house that you are selling. Home Inspectors are not "deal killers" or doomsayers. Rather, an experienced Home Inspector will provide the information that you will need from an objective 3rd party point of view that will help buyers, sellers and Real Estate agents to have a full understanding of the homes condition.

A professionally trained home inspector, like myself, will assist in maintaining the health of your home and a property inspection makes home maintenance easy by catching small problems before they become big surprises.

Other Types of Inspections
There are many other types of property inspections offered by me, depending on your needs:
Pre-Listing Inspection
Pre-Purchase Inspection
New Construction Inspection
Condo Inspection
Mobile Home Inspection
11 Month Warranty Inspection

In just a few hours you'll have a detailed report of the condition of your home so that you can plan for needed repairs and upgrades when it's time to make them. When purchasing a home, many home buyers have saved literally thousands of dollars through information provided by the home inspector. Home owners who have owned their homes for several years can even benefit from a home inspector's knowledge of maintenance and repairs, and experience to avert potential problems. In many areas where disasters have occurred, homeowners have relied on inspectors to help them identify any damage resulting from storms, earthquakes, etc.

Buying a home could be the largest single investment you will ever make. To minimize unpleasant surprises and unexpected difficulties, you'll want to learn as much as you can about the newly constructed or existing house before you buy it. A home inspection may identify the need for major repairs or builder oversights, as well as the need for maintenance to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will know more about the house, which will allow you to make decisions with confidence.

If you already are a homeowner, a home inspection can identify problems in the making and suggest preventive measures that might help you avoid costly future repairs.

If you are planning to sell your home, a home inspection can give you the opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition.

Even the most experienced homeowner lacks the knowledge and expertise of a professional home inspector. An inspector is familiar with the elements of home construction, proper installation, maintenance and home safety. He or she knows how the home's systems and components are intended to function together, as well as why they fail.

Above all, most buyers find it difficult to remain completely objective and unemotional about the house they really want, and this may have an effect on their judgment. For accurate information, it is best to obtain an impartial, third-party opinion by a professional in the field of home inspection.

Why Home Buyers should get a HOME INSPECTION

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Sun, 01 Apr 2007 19:42:42 -0500

Buying a home? The process can be stressful. A home inspection is supposed to give you peace of mind, but often has the opposite effect. You will be asked to absorb a lot of information in a short time. This often includes a written report, checklist, photographs, environmental reports and what the inspector himself says during the inspection. All this combined with the seller's disclosure and what you notice yourself makes the experience even more overwhelming. What should you do?

Relax. Most of your inspection will be maintenance recommendations, life expectancies and minor imperfections. These are nice to know about. However, the issues that really matter will fall into four categories:

Major defects. An example of this would be a structural failure.
Things that lead to major defects. A small roof-flashing leak, for example.
Things that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy or insure the home.
Safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electric panel.

Anything in these categories should be addressed. Often a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4).

Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection. Realize that sellers are under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in the report. No home is perfect. Keep things in perspective. Do not kill your deal over things that do not matter. It is inappropriate to demand that a seller address deferred maintenance, conditions already listed on the seller's disclosure or nit-picky items.

Advantages to home sellers in getting a Pre-Listing HOME INSPECTION

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Sun, 01 Apr 2007 19:40:22 -0500

Eventually your buyers are going to conduct an inspection. You may as well know what they are going to find by getting there first. The author points out that having an inspection performed ahead of time helps in many other ways:

It allows you to see your home through the eyes of a critical third-party.
It helps you to price your home realistically.
It permits you to make repairs ahead of time so that ...
a. Defects won't become negotiating stumbling blocks later.
b. There is no delay in obtaining the Use and Occupancy permit.
c. You have the time to get reasonably priced contractors or make the repairs yourself, if qualified.
It may encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
It may alert you of items of immediate personal concern, such as radon gas or active termite infestation.
It may relieve prospect's concerns and suspicions.
It reduces your liability by adding professional supporting documentation to your disclosure statement.
It may alert you to immediate safety issues before agents and visitors tour your home.

Copies of the inspection report along with receipts for any repairs should be made available to potential buyers.

Advantages of getting a Pre-Sale Home Inspection

Advantages to the seller:

The seller can choose a certified NACHI inspector rather than be at the mercy of the buyer's choice of inspector.

The seller can schedule the inspections at the seller's convenience.

It might alert the seller of any items of immediate personal concern, such as radon gas or active termite infestation.

The seller can assist the inspector during the inspection, something normally not done during a buyer's inspection.

The seller can have the inspector correct any misstatements in the inspection report before it is generated.

The report can help the seller realistically price the home if problems exist.

The report can help the seller substantiate a higher asking price if problems don't exist or have been corrected.

A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which:

	might make the home show better.
	gives the seller time to make repairs and shop for competitive contractors.
	permits the seller to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report.
	removes over-inflated buyer procured estimates from the negotiation table.

The report might alert the seller to any immediate safety issues found, before agents and visitors tour the home.

The report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to potential buyers.

A seller inspection permits a clean home inspection report to be used as a marketing tool.

A seller inspection is the ultimate gesture in forthrightness on the part of the seller.

The report might relieve a prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.

A seller inspection lightens negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.

The report might encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.

The deal is less likely to fall apart the way they often do when a buyer's inspection unexpectedly reveals a problem, last minute.

The report provides full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

Advantages to the home buyer:

	The inspection is done already.
	The inspection is paid for by the seller.
	The report provides a more accurate, third-party view of the condition of the home prior to making an offer.
	A seller inspection eliminates surprise defects.
	Problems are corrected or at least acknowledged prior to making an offer on the home.
	A seller inspection reduces the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
	The report might assist in acquiring financing.
	A seller inspection allows the buyer to sweeten the offer without increasing the offering price by waiving inspections.

Advantages of a Pre-Listing Home Inspection

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Sun, 01 Apr 2007 19:27:21 -0500

Advantages to the real estate agent in recommending a pre-listing Inspection:

	Agents can recommend certified NACHI inspectors as opposed to being at the mercy of buyer's choices in inspectors.
	Sellers can schedule the inspections at seller's convenience with little effort on the part of agents.
	Sellers can assist inspectors during the inspections, something normally not done during buyer's inspections.
	Sellers can have inspectors correct any misstatements in the reports before they are generated.
	Reports help sellers see their homes through the eyes of a critical, third-party, thus making sellers more realistic about asking price.
	Agents are alerted to any immediate safety issues found, before other agents and potential buyers tour the home.
	Repairs made ahead of time might make homes show better.
	The reports provide third-party, unbiased opinions to offer to potential buyers.
	Clean reports can be used as marketing tools to help sell the homes.
	Reports might relieve prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
	Seller inspections eliminate buyer's remorse that sometimes occurs just after an inspection.
	Seller inspections reduce the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
	Seller inspections relieve the agent of having to hurriedly procure repair estimates or schedule repairs.
	The reports might encourage buyers to waive their inspection contingencies.
	Deals are less likely to fall apart the way they often do when buyer's inspections unexpectedly reveal problems, last minute.
	Reports provide full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

Frequently Asked Questions about HOME INSPECTIONS

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Sun, 01 Apr 2007 19:22:39 -0500

Frequently Asked Questions

	I would like more information on your services. Where can I get detailed information? Use the contact page to obtain more information or talk with a representative personally.
	I'm selling my house. Do I need to get my house inspected prior to listing it? In the current "buyers" market, it might be just the edge that you need to entice prospective buyers to bid on your house. It shows the buyers that your house has been checked, and that all issues are out front and have been addressed. It will allow you to make your house more market ready by repairing potentially "deal-killing" issues before they become an issue. It will provide that you will get the full market value for your house.
	I'm thinking of buying a house. Do I really need an Inspection? Buying a house is the single largest purchase that you are likely to ever make. You spend thousands of dollars to get all the paperwork completed. A few hundred dollars spent to inspect the house and know if everything is working the way it should be is the best value for your money in the transaction. There are so many components in a house that you need a professional to evaluate everything. You don't want to be surprised with hundreds or thousands of dollars in repair bills after you move in.
	How quickly can I get my house Inspected? Usually, we can schedule an Inspection for the next day, if you need it. However, certain times of the year, Spring and early Summer are our busiest times, so you may want to try and schedule an appointment in advance.
	What do I need to do in advance of my Inspection? You will need to make sure that the house can be thoroughly inspected by removing obstacles from around access points (attic doors, crawlspaces, etc.). We don't expect you to clean your house any more than you would normally keep it, it will not affect the Inspection unless there are access points that are blocked. We only ask that you attempt to keep everything clear of obstructions. There is a checklist that you can print to help you remember.
	How long does the Inspection take? A normal Inspection usually takes around 3-4 hours. We ask that you schedule a time that you will be free for that time. Please make sure that someone will be there to let the Inspector in and be available during the entire inspection in case of questions or problems involved with your Inspection.
	Can I accompany the Inspector during the Inspection? Yes, we encourage you to participate in the Inspection! Of course, you will not be allowed to enter into possibly dangerous areas (climbing on the roof, crawling into crawlspaces, going into the attic, etc.), but the Inspection is meant to be informative and interactive, and therefore, you will get a greater understanding of what the Inspector includes in his report if you can actually see first hand what issues may be raised during the Inspection. It will also give you a chance to ask any questions you might have about any component in your house. We will be glad to thoroughly explain how any system works (or doesn't work) as you accompany the Inspector. We must ask that children and pets don't participate.
	Can the Inspector tell me if the house is a good deal or not? No! It is beyond the Code of Ethics of any professional Home Inspector to comment on any of the financial aspects of a Real Estate transaction. The Inspector will provide you with all the information, both good and bad, that will allow you to make your own determination of the value of the house.
	Can the Inspector offer to repair any defects? Again, No! It would represent a conflict of interest issue to find a defect and then offer to repair it. The Code of Ethics prevents any qualified Home Inspector from offering this service. Although many Inspectors come from construction backgrounds, the best Inspectors have been trained to only inspect houses. A professional Inspector may recommend a local contractor that can help, but that again comes close to a conflict of interest issue (especially if the contractor is the Inspector's cousin). We will only provide you with the information, and will not offer to fix anything or recommend anyone that might be able to do the work for you. We feel that this is the most honest approach.
	Can the Inspector tell me how long something will last? A bit of a gray area for most Inspectors. Your report will include information on the approximate age of a particular component (and may offer an approximate life expectancy), but you will probably want to consult a specialist if it is noted that the life expectancy of a particular component seems to be reaching its' end. Your report will recommend consulting a specialist if it appears the component is nearing its' life expectancy end.
	When will I receive my written report after the Inspection? Your report will be compiled on the evening of the Inspection and will be mailed to you on the following day. If you need Rush Delivery of your report, you can request this service. Please view our prices for more information on this extra service.
	What if there is something in the report that I don't understand or have a question on? Your Inspector will review the Inspection with you immediately after the Inspection has been completed to ensure that you can address any issues at that time. If, after you receive your report, you still have questions, or need further explanation of anything, please contact us and we will be glad to help you.
	What do I do with my report after I receive it? The report is meant to provide you with all the information that you will need to determine the condition of the house. If you are purchasing the house, it will allow you to plan for future repairs that may be needed. You may also want to re-negotiate the price of the house with the sellers to compensate you for any expenses that you may incur in repairing any found defects. You should have the house inspected prior to signing any documents. You may also want to include an "Inspection Clause" in the paperwork. If any serious issues are found, you can re-negotiate the deal or be able to cancel the transaction if they can't be resolved.

Detailed information can be found on my Websight at www.certified-home-inspections.com

Real Estate Agents FUNNY PICTURE

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 22 Mar 2007 16:42:43 -0500

Selling a house with a mold problem--Spring is here! And so is the Mold!

Mark Taylor (Certified Home Inspections LLC) — Thu, 22 Mar 2007 15:28:42 -0500

The other day a guy called me and tried to pick my brain for some free advice on a house that he was thinking of selling. He started by asking me about a mold problem he had in his basement and what he should do about it. Even though I was pretty sure that there was not going to be anything in it for me, business ways, I tried to help the guy out. I started by trying to find out exactly what he was generalizing as a "mold problem." He proceded to tell me that he has always had a damp basement and that lately, he had a dehumidifier running 24/7. He went on to tell me that he just had new gutters installed and wasn't sure if they had run the downspouts correctly because it seemed that after they installed the new gutters, his damp basement began to get wet! He went on to tell me that he had a "black mold" problem in his basement, and that the mold seemed to be migrating to his kitchen floor. He told me that he was going to sell the house this Spring, and wanted to know what he should do.

He was literally describing a nightmare to me. But I wanted to try and help the guy out. I told him that it sounded like his problem was the result of moisture. The long and the short of it is, mold spores are present everywhere. Even in the cleanest of houses. It usually doesn't become a problem until it's visible. And it only becomes visible when you give it the right conditions in which to grow and multiply. Please view the enclosed photos to see some pretty severe cases. So, I told the guy, without actually inspecting the problems, that I could only give him some general advice.

Mold needs either moisture or warm humid conditions to multiply
The key to eliminating mold in your house is to control the moisture
Moisture usually gets into your house from the outside
Gutters and downspouts MUST direct water away from your house
There should be some sort of drainage around the perimeter of the houses foundation to direct water away from the house and into either the sewer system or a slope away from the house
The foundation should be sealed to prevent any excess water from penetrating it

Testing to see if you have mold is almost a waste of time. If you want to test for mold, then you can probably see it. If you can see it, you don't really need to test for it, you need to find out why you can see it all of a sudden. The reason is usually an influx of moisture from somewhere. You need to fix the moisture problem first. If you insist on testing, as I told the gentleman who called me, you can visit: www.accukits.com and send for a free mold test kit. They charge for lab analysis.

If you have a mold problem, you need to eliminate the cause first. After you do that, you need to clean the mold. A homeowner can do this, with basic cleaning supplies and some safety precautions. The EPA has some great information that can guide you through the process. Visit www.epa.gov for details.

A Certified Home Inspector can inspect your house and provide you with the information that you will need to determine what is causing your moisture problem and give you some advice on the best way to repair the problem. An Inspector can provide you with qualified contractors that can help.

If you are selling a house with a moisture or mold problem, it is in your best interest and the interest of your prospective buyers to fix the problem prior to listing. If you are looking to purchase a house, and you suspect that there could be a dampness or wet basement issue, hire an Inspector to look at the house before you agree to purchase it.

I hope that this information helps you -----Mark

Roofing (Typical min. service call $55.00 - $95.00)
Asphalt Shingles over existing	15-20 year lifespan	$0.75-$1.20/square foot
Asphalt Shingles, remove old	16-25 year lifespan	$1.15-$1.95/square foot
Wood shingles	15-25 year lifespan	$2.50-$5.00/square foot
Cedar Shakes	20-35 year lifespan	$3.75-$6.00/square foot
Tile, Cement, Slate	25-60 year lifespan	$4.00-$10.00/square foot
Gutters/Downspouts	20-30 year lifespan	$600.00-$950.00/home

Heating and Cooling (Typical Service Call $60.00 - $100.00)
Replace Forced Air 80,000 BTU	15-20 year lifespan	$1,000.00-$1,800.00
Replace Forced Air 150,000 BTU	15-20 year lifespan	$1,300.00-$2,000.00
Replace Boiler 80,000 BTU	20-30 year lifespan	$1,800.00-$3,000.00
Replace Boiler 150,000 BTU	20-30 year lifespan	$2,500.00-$3,500.00
Replace Heat Pump	8-10 year lifespan	$2,000.00-$3,000.00
Replace Air Conditioner	8-10 year lifespan	$1,500.00-$3,000.00
Replace A/C Compressor	6-10 year lifespan	$800.00-$1,200.00
Replace A/C Compressor & Condenser	10-20 year lifespan	$1,500.00-$2,000.00

Hot Water Heater (Typical Service Call $60.00 - $100.00)
Replace Hot Water Heater, 40-50gal	7-10 year lifespan	$350.00-$500.00
Replace Hot Water Heater, 40-50gal	7-10 year lifespan	$450.00-$650.00

Electrical (Typical Minimum Service Call $50.00 - $125.00)
Replace Service Panel	30-60 year lifespan	$800.00-$1,000.00
Install new 240v circuit	30-50 year lifespan	$150.00-$200.00
Install new 110v circuit	30-50 year lifespan	$95.00-$150.00
Correct reverse polarity	30-50 year lifespan	$10.00-$25.00 each outlet repaired
Copalum splice to repair alum. wiring	15-45 year lifespan	$18.00-$28.00 each splice repaired

Plumbing (Typical Minimum Service Call $60.00 - $90.00)
Repair typical leak	30-50 year lifespan	$60.00-$150.00
Upgrade old piping for 2-1/2 bath	30-50 year lifespan	$1,500.00-$5,000.00

Sewer and Water (Minimum Typical Service Call $100.00 - $150.00)
Install conventional septic	$3,000.00-$10,000.00
Install new seepage pit	$500.00-$1,000.00
Install new drain field	$1,500.00-$3,000.00
Clean out tank	$75.00-$300.00
Drill 200ft well	$2,500.00-$5,000.00
Install new tank	$250.00-$800.00
Install new interior pump	$350.00-$600.00
Install new submersible pump	$900.00-$1,500.00

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Lorain County New Construction Home Inspections

What Should A Roof Inspection Cover?

All roofs will leak eventually

Any roof penetration (chimneys, plumbing stacks, skylights, etc.) increase the potential for a leak

The exposure of the roof and pitch will affect its' lifespan Southern exposures will fail faster The less pitch (or angle) of the roof, the faster it will fail

Southern exposures will fail faster

The less pitch (or angle) of the roof, the faster it will fail

Skylights will always leak, eventually Skylights that were installed as part of the original construction are better Skylights that have been added after original construction are more likely to leak Flush mounted skylights are not as good as raised ones

Skylights that were installed as part of the original construction are better

Skylights that have been added after original construction are more likely to leak

Flush mounted skylights are not as good as raised ones

Slate tiles last the longest (up to 100 years or more) but the other components won't last as long

Clay tiles last as long as slate, with an indefinite life expectancy, however the fasteners and joiners will not last nearly as long

Concrete tiles can last up to 50 years or more

Fiber cement (mostly made with asbestos) can last 30 to 50 year

Metal roofs can last from 25 to 50 years

Wood shingles and shakes can last from 10 to 60 years

Asphalt shingles (the most common by far) will last from 15 to 25 years normally Multiple layers reduce the life expectancy dramatically Exposure plays a big part in the life expectancy

Multiple layers reduce the life expectancy dramatically

Exposure plays a big part in the life expectancy

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Average Costs of Home Repairs

Roofing (Typical min. service call $55.00 - $95.00)

Heating and Cooling (Typical Service Call $60.00 - $100.00)

Hot Water Heater (Typical Service Call $60.00 - $100.00)

Electrical (Typical Minimum Service Call $50.00 - $125.00)

Plumbing (Typical Minimum Service Call $60.00 - $90.00)

Sewer and Water (Minimum Typical Service Call $100.00 - $150.00)

* Data presented depicts average lifespan and average cost to replace.It is by no means to be thought of as quotes on any specific repair job.For information purposes only.

Do you really need a Home Inspection?

Why Home Buyers should get a HOME INSPECTION

Advantages to home sellers in getting a Pre-Listing HOME INSPECTION

Advantages of a Pre-Listing Home Inspection

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Real Estate Agents FUNNY PICTURE

Selling a house with a mold problem--Spring is here! And so is the Mold!

The exposure of the roof and pitch will affect its' lifespan

Southern exposures will fail faster

The less pitch (or angle) of the roof, the faster it will fail

Skylights will always leak, eventually

Skylights that were installed as part of the original construction are better

Skylights that have been added after original construction are more likely to leak

Flush mounted skylights are not as good as raised ones

Asphalt shingles (the most common by far) will last from 15 to 25 years normally

Multiple layers reduce the life expectancy dramatically

Exposure plays a big part in the life expectancy

Roofing

(Typical min. service call $55.00 - $95.00)

Heating and Cooling

(Typical Service Call $60.00 - $100.00)

Hot Water Heater

(Typical Service Call $60.00 - $100.00)

Electrical

(Typical Minimum Service Call $50.00 - $125.00)

Plumbing

(Typical Minimum Service Call $60.00 - $90.00)

Sewer and Water

(Minimum Typical Service Call $100.00 - $150.00)

* Data presented depicts average lifespan and average cost to replace.
It is by no means to be thought of as quotes on any specific repair job.
For information purposes only.