David Valley's Home Inspection/Infrared Imaging Blog

SAVE HEATING DOLLARS WITH A INFRARED SCAN

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 17:11:10 -0600

It's that time of the year again, at least in the great North East Massachusetts area. It's getting real cold outside and heating units are starting to come on, on a daily basis. This is the perfect time to learn where your heating dollars are going to waste and have an infrared scan performed to locate those areas of your home where heat is escaping and cold air is stealing your hard earned heating dollars.

My infrared camera allows me to perform a comprehensive energy efficiency inspection within your home by locating and pin-pointing those areas where unconditioned cold air is infiltrating into your living areas. Most cold air infiltrations are located at wall penetrations (such as windows, doors, vents, etc), and at transition areas of fully insulated walls, ceilings and floors. My thermal scan will identify the smallest of insulation breaches and fissures within the concealed cavities of your interior walls and ceilings. I will literally show you where you are wasting your precious energy resources and your hard earned energy dollars. My IR camera enables me to point out exactly where your costly energy dollars are being lost. I will then assist you in determining how to properly insulate those breached areas with minimum damage to your surfaces, so you can get the most out of your heating system for many years to come.

Here are some infrared images I've captured recently.....

No access to the top side of this ceiling, but infrared detects missing insulation

An infrared inspection detects a radiator conducting heat to the exterior.

During a Re-hab, infrared imaging detects missing insulation above ceiling

An infrared home energy efficiency inspection can be used to verify problems caused by poor design, poor workmanship, or material failure. With the ridiculously high priced heating fuel today, my energy audit can pay for itself in as little as one year. This is the ideal inspection to conduct for numerous situations in a typical home…

1) Use my infrared services while I’m performing your Standard home inspection. This valuable option is not included in my standard home inspection fee.

2) You can hire me immediately after completion of your newly constructed home while the home or building is still under warranty with the building contractor. I can also scan your new home on construction stage inspections. (In many cases, those moisture stains on your basement walls are explained away by the builder as "during construction" moisture. It pays to confirm this before the builder’s warranty expires.)

3) If you own an older home that is costing you too much in energy dollars due to excessive air drafts, I can pinpoint those problem areas where cold air is infiltrating your living space. Then, it’s best if you contact a building contractor to upgrade those specific areas that I will be clearly identifying throughout your home. All efficiency information and pictures will be transferred onto a professional thermal report for your convenience.

4) An infrared energy inspection will easily locate any missing insulation behind your finished walls and ceilings. Then, you can contact an insulation contractor to upgrade the areas that I will be identifying throughout your home. These areas will also be clearly identified on a professional energy efficiency report. During this inspection, I can show you how you can insulate specific areas without removing walls or ceilings.

5) I am able to detect potential mold problems behind walls and ceilings. All moisture issues must be mitigated immediately. As I stated previously, infrared imaging does not detect the actual Molds behind your walls and ceilings, but it will detect the issues associated with Mold build-up.

6) Infrared Thermography provides you with a unique opportunity to assess the energy efficiency of your HVAC (heating, ventilating, and air conditioning) systems, including the tightness of the duct work that is located behind your walls and ceilings. In order to prevent deadly carbon monoxide poisoning, this inspection will also test for leaks throughout the vent pipes.

7) An infrared camera will locate those thermal panes that are at the beginning stages of leaking insulated gases. I am able to locate any broken seals in double/triple pane windows that do not visually show signs of condensation as of yet.

Windows look great visually, but infrared detects three thermal barrier leaks

As you can see, having an infrared energy efficiency inspection makes it much easier to positively pinpoint problems throughout your home, instead of simply making an educated guess without the camera. An IR inspection also allows me to communicate my findings with greater understanding to you (the homeowner) instead of just “speaking another language.” As one client had put it very clearly, “This inspection lets my eyes make sense of what my ears are hearing.” Now that makes perfect sense, Right?

The dark blue areas indicates that insulation is missing in this area

Thermal imaging pictures combined with digital photographs can greatly enhance your understanding of just what the problem is and how to go about having it repaired with minimum damage to the home. My final energy efficiency report will enhance your ability to deal directly with the contractors that may be performing the repair work for you. All you have to do is show your contractor the infrared energy efficiency report and they will fully understand your issues. After your contractor completes their upgrade, and before you make any final payment, you can then contact me to perform a final scan to verify that all work was performed correctly.

Looks great visually, until I detect insulation defects with thermal imaging

http://www.massinfrared.com

Termites / Monitoring Your Home For Termite Activity

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 07:32:05 -0500

WATCH AND HEAR LIVE TERMITES IN ACTION

Click the computer screen

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VIEW ACTUAL SIZE OF LIVE TERMITES NEXT TO A DIME

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Of all Wood Boring insects, Termites are definitely the most damaging wood destroying insects out there. Did you know that the average single-family home has as many as three to four termite colonies beneath it (and each colony contains as many as 1 million winged residents). It's very important to prevent these colonies from attacking your home and causing extensive structural damage.

TERMITE DAMAGE TO STRUCTURAL MEMBERS

Termites must remain in moist areas in order to survive (which I will get into more detail next). Once they arrive into an open space they build mud tunnels in order to remain in a moist environment. The smallest of cracks in your foundation -- usually a basement or concrete slab -- is enough for those sneaky little termites to gain entry into your home. They will utilize the cracks to gain access to the wood framing because it's much easier for them to use naturally occuring cracks than to build mud tunnels to protect themselves from the dry environment. Once they're inside your home, anything made of wood -- from framing within the structure (especially sills), window and door frames to subfloors to furniture -- is fair game. You're not able to visibly see termites because they feed undetected. Termite workers attack the wood in your home from the inside out and infestations can go undiscovered until the wood is almost completely destroyed, which could take many years.

As if this scenario weren't bad enough, after they feast on your structure, termites leave behind a chemical trail that sends signals to other termites that food is near. Once started, this trail of destruction is impossible to stop without the services of a professional exterminator who is skilled at locating the hidden regions of your home where these termites take up residence. Wood-boring insects are difficult to control by homeowners once an infestation has begun. Treating insects is not a do-it-yourself project. If you have signs of Termite activity, do yourself a favor, hire a professional exterminator for full treatment.

WHAT ARE TERMITES ATTRACTED TO, BESIDES WOOD?

It's Moisture. It's extremely difficult to ward off moisture throughout your home, and especially underneath it, where termites gain initial entry to your property. It's impossible to dry out areas under your home. The good news is that in many cases, the problem starts in areas you can reach (outside and around your home), where wood products are exposed to the elements and thus trap moisture. Prevention is the best management method.

HERE'S HOW YOU CAN PROTECT YOUR HOME AGAINST TERMITES:

Above all, schedule an annual termite inspection and watch for mud tunnels over exposed exterior surfaces of your home (especially the foundation) and monitor for swarming termites in April and May.

Trim all shrubs, bushes, vines and other dense greenery away from the foundation and the siding of your home. Any vegetation touching your home will give Termites easy access to the structure. They simply make their trail behind the vines and vegetation to protect them from sunlight.

So many homeowners collect big piles of firewood outside their homes come wintertime. But some of us who don't use the entire pile let it sit throughout the rest of the year. This does you no good for many reasons. First, the firewood begins to rot as it's exposed to changes in the weather; second, it's ultimately useless because it becomes wet with moisture; and third (and most important), it's a magnet for termites seeking a home. You'll obviously need to store some firewood outdoors during the winter months -- particularly if you light fires often -- so your best bet is to keep the pile raised off the ground and away from the side of your house. Also, try to keep it protected from rain.

Consistent with the reasoning of the above-listed point, remove all lumber, tree stumps and any other variety of wood from the parameters of your home. If you're saving some wood for that home-improvement project you're planning to tackle on a rainy day, store it in your garage in a high and dry area. No wood should be touching the ground around your house, period. Including all exterior finishes (the siding) of your home. These areas should be 6 to 8 inches above grading.

This includes removal and replacement of any wood posts or stair stringers that penetrate concrete floors or rest on dirt on the exterior of the home or in the basement or crawl space. These penetrations will only invite Termites and provide avenues for their passage to more appetizing segments of the structure.

If you've got leaky pipes or any accumulation of water underneath your home, call a professional (or tackle the job yourself if you're capable). If you've been putting off the job, don't stall any longer. You may already have attracted termites to the water. By the same token, if you find standing water anywhere -- inside or outside your home -- remedy the problem and get rid of the moisture immediately. (Please read "Wet Basements" for more detailed information).

Clean all your gutters and downspouts regularly. Clogs and other obstructions will cause the gutters to overflow resulting in moist grading around your foundation which will attract termite populations. Inspect your gutters regularly for signs of disrepair. Inspect your home's crawl space you have one. It may be in your best interest to determine if the space is properly protected in order to stave off Termites. Moisture and humidity in crawl spaces can be reduced by installing a 4-6 mil polyethylene sheeting over the soil surface. This cover will act as a vapor barrier to reduce evaporation from the soil and condensation of moisture on floor joists and sub flooring. (Please read "Your Crawl Space" for more detailed information).

Since Termites can prey on the outside of your home, inspect your home regularly for any foundation cracks. If you find cracks inside or outside, seal them immediately. Ensure that your home receives continual maintenance to keep its exterior paint in good condition. Chipping, peeling paint can increase the likelihood of termite infestation due to moisture accumulation on unprotected wood.

As a homeowner, you can never prevent termite infestation with 100 percent certainty. However, you can take these various measures to decrease the probability of an infestation in your home. Considering both the cost of damage and inspection/extermination, you have absolutely nothing to lose by attempting to perform every one of these precautions. Yes, it is true that Termites may find a meal at your house eventually, but they are not the only pests ready to eat your house. Remember...there are two types of homes out there, homes that have been infested with Termites and homes that have not been infested with Termites...YET.

Massachusetts Home Inspections

Wet Basements

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 16:03:14 -0500

Nothing is more frustrating than dealing with a wet or flooded basement. Wet basements and crawl spaces are sources of high humidity, which can produce surface condensation, mildew and fungi, musty odors, and an unhealthful environment. Such moisture can cause deterioration of the foundation mortar, floor joists, beams, supports, sub flooring, insulation, and electrical-mechanical systems.

Prolonged water around the footer and foundation wall can soften the soil and weaken its bearing capacity, increasing the possibility of wall settlement and cracking. Serious seepage under the foundation footer may erode soil away and cause the wall to drop or crack. Excessive moisture can eventually penetrate the sub flooring and buckle the flooring or cause warping, making doors and closets difficult to open or close. Since crawl space or basement dampness always moves toward the drier upstairs areas, higher humidity will result in costlier heating and air conditioning bills. In the case of crawl spaces, if the under flooring insulation collects moisture, or sags from excessive wetness, the heating and air conditioning costs are driven even higher. Finally, wet basements and crawl spaces reduce the value of the house--at least by the amount that would be required to repair the damage and to eliminate the cause of the problem. Some homeowners are reluctant to discuss or admit their water problem; for fear that the publicity of an actual or even a perceived problem would reduce the value of their investment.

Homeowner insurance that fully covers basement flooding damage is an important means of financial protection to homeowners. Coverage for wet basements varies from state to state and company to company. But typically, the damage from water seeping in from the outside or backing up from the sewer is not covered by standard homeowner policies. In some cases, special coverage can be purchased to cover these risks, but it is usually limited in the types of personal property it covers and amounts of coverage that may be purchased.

It is up to each homeowner to know how to prevent water damage before it starts. This can be done through proper home maintenance and installation of systems intended to remove water before it gets into the basement.

CAUSE OF WET BASEMENTS AND CRAWLSPACES

Most wet basements or crawl spaces are caused by surface water which is not adequately drained away from the exterior foundation wall.

Sources of this water include the following:

Roof water, if no gutters and downspouts are presently installed.

Roof water, if the guttering leaks or overflows because of clogging from leaves and bird nests

Roof water if the downspouts (leaders) are clogged or do not have sufficient means at their outlets to drain water away from the foundation wall. Frequently, a downspout ends right at the corner of the house without an elbow and a 4-6 foot extension to carry roof water away from the foundation, leaving roof water to concentrate at that point and seep into the soil next to the foundation wall. A typical 2000 square foot roof can produce almost 1250 gallons of water during just 1 inch of rainfall. If the rainfall is steady and prolonged, the opportunity for this roof water to soak into the ground next to the foundation wall is high.

Excessive watering of flower beds and shrubbery around the foundation wall. Once the upper soil layer or mulch bed air spaces are filled with water, the excess water either runs off or seeps into the ground next to the wall. Prolonged and excessive watering can contribute a large amount of water to basements.

Rainwater runoff from the adjacent lawn, walks, or driveway areas if the landscaping forces water to drain toward the house instead of away. If surface runoff is directed toward the foundation wall, this water will pond and eventually soak into the soil, thus becoming a potential source of basement or crawl space water. Downspout splash pads are not very effective if they drain onto a backward-draining slope toward the foundation wall.

Subsurface or groundwater may be intercepted or dammed up by a basement or foundation wall. Houses which are built down slope on or at the base of hillsides are particularly vulnerable since there is greater opportunity for surface water to soak into the soil to become groundwater and because groundwater flows downhill by gravity. Foundation walls act like dams and can intercept and trap this subsurface water, causing pressure build-up on the outside and forcing water through joints and cracks in basement walls or seepage under the footer.

Nearby springs may have been filled in or covered up by the developer. Unless the springs were properly drained away from the lot or subdivision, such water will eventually seep into the surrounding fill, become a pool of groundwater, and eventually force itself laterally and upwardly into basements and crawl spaces.

Nearby creeks may overflow during storm runoff and either directly flood basement or crawl space areas, or contribute to the groundwater, which may become sufficiently high to cause seepage into the basement or crawl space area. Homeowners may not experience the effects of groundwater seepage or overflowing creeks for months or years after purchasing a house because of drought or infrequent out-of-bank flooding. However, when such conditions do occur, they may come suddenly without warning and cause serious problems after the warranty period has expired.

Improperly installed, clogged, collapsed, or leaky drains may not allow downspout water or foundation wall water to escape. Perimeter, footer, or foundation drains are installed around the exterior of a house below the basement floor to intercept and dispose of subsurface water to eliminate groundwater build-up and seepage under the house. If these drains are improperly installed or become clogged with silt or roots, they will not operate as intended. Sometimes an otherwise good perimeter drain gets covered up at its end(s) during the final backfilling or landscaping stages of construction and the intercepted water has no place to go but to build up behind the foundation wall and eventually to seep into the basement or crawl space.

Underground drains leading away from downspouts may not have sufficient slope to carry water away; may empty into the adjacent lawn and get covered with topsoil; may become crushed during landscaping or become pinched at their outlets; or may lead to an area which ponds and backs up water. The end result in all these cases is leakage or overflowing at the bottom of the downspout and water penetrating the foundation area.

Soil continuously draws water up from subsurface groundwater sources in a crawl space like a blotter by a mechanism known as capillary attraction. The finer the soil (e.g. clays), the more aggressive the capillary pumping action. As the water rises to the surface, it evaporates into the crawl space. Such ground moisture can be a significant source of dampness and humidity under a house, even without standing water. The presence of capillary water is often indicated by a whitish residue, left on the ground surface of the crawl spaces, resulting from evaporation of water containing minerals and salts. Lack of a moisture barrier, such as plastic sheet, will allow this capillary action and evaporation to contribute almost unlimited moisture sources to crawl space areas.

DRYING OUT A WET BASEMENT

If you have water running into your basement, the first thing to do is to see if it occurs immediately after a rain. If this is the case, it is probably due to surface water puddling against the outside of the basement walls. This is the most common source of basement water problems and one that you may be able to fix yourself.

First of all, you need to locate the source of entry. I suggest you look for ways exterior run-off water can enter into this area in the basement. Make sure downspout runoff isn't pooling or percolating into soil near the foundation during a storm, and that gutter and downspout seams aren't leaking. Gutters should be catching the rain and channeling it to the downspouts. Make sure there is no debris blocking the inlet of the downspout and preventing water from escaping down the spout. The downspouts should have extensions so that they discharge the water at least five feet away from the house.

Check the ground outside your foundation. Unfortunately, the earth that was used to back fill around most foundations settles over the years so it is extremely common for earth near the house to be lower than the rest of the yard. All grading should slope away from your house at least 1 inch vertically for every 1 foot of horizontal travel. If earth is already near the top of the foundation or if your lot slopes toward the house on one side, you may need to use another approach. In this case, establish a swale or shallow ditch on that side of the house to intercept the surface water and carry it around the house and down slope toward the street. Place the drainage path as far from the house as possible. If you have enough space, the ditch can easily be made less noticeable by blending it into the lawn.

If you have pavement immediately next to the house, be sure it slopes away. If a driveway or sidewalk is either extremely flat or slopes toward the house you have several choices. You can replace the pavement and correct the grade in the process. If it is concrete, you can have it mud jacked (raised), which usually costs about half as much as replacing the concrete. You can also add an additional layer of pavement next to the house to reverse the slope. If you do the latter, you will also need to caulk joints and cracks in the drive or sidewalk so that water which pools on the surface doesn't penetrate and end up in the basement.

Window wells are another common source of basement water problems. The window well itself should be much deeper than the window sill to provide a place to catch rain that might fall into it. The top rim should be 3 to 4" above grade with the ground sloping away so that water is not channeled into the window well. If the window well is on a side of the house where wind drives rain or ice against the house, installing a plastic bubble cover over the well will help keep rain, leaves and snow out.

Fixing any grading related problems such as those mentioned here will take care of the majority of basement water problems and should always be done first, even if you are considering other measures such as repairing a leaky crack in a Poured Concrete foundation. If that's the case, I personally recommend that you contact a Massachusetts based company called Crack-X. They will bond your crack surfaces together by injecting a specially formulated epoxy material that will stop water from leaking into your basement. This process closes the crack and restores the structural integrity of the wall by producing a "weld" that is equal to the original concrete in strength and performance. They will offer a ten year warranty. They can be contacted by phone at 1-877-CRACK-FX or browse their website at http://www.crackfx.com

SEVERE FLOODING IN BASEMENTS (Waterproofing)

In my humble opinion, "water proofing" systems, especially those on the exterior of a building should be used only as a last resort. Many water proofing systems involve water collection and discharge and are very costly. If you've tried all my recommendations and water is still gushing into your basement, and you can not resolve this, I recommend that you call in a professional. Otherwise, consider an interior gutter. This dam-and-channel system goes around the perimeter of the basement floor and collects water that flows down or through the walls or floor, routing it to a floor drain or sump pump. If you decide to go this route, I highly recommend contacting a Massachusetts based company called B-Dry at 1-888-400-2379 or browse their website HERE.

MASSACHUSETTS HOME INSPECTIONS

Deck Maintenance

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 06:16:55 -0500

Your deck is a valuable asset to your home. Its surface is constantly exposed to our weather extremes causing the wood to crack, fade, split, splinter, cup and warp. The majority of decks in New England are made from pressure-treated pine. Although pressure-treated wood resists insects and decay, it's still vulnerable to moisture, freezing and the sun's rays. The same applies to other exterior woods including Cedar, Cypress and Mahogany. To keep it looking new and lasting much than the average deck, a regular maintenance treatment system is necessary. Approximately once a year, your deck should be checked for loose railings, balusters, walk boards and protruding nails. Then it should be thoroughly cleaned, and resealed.

Take the time to examine all the wood carefully, to see if any boards have rotted. Unfortunately, most wood rot occurs in places that are hard to see; Under the decking boards, at the ledger (the horizontal board that is attached to the house), on the underside of stair treads, and the exposed end grains of all decking. If possible, crawl underneath your deck to thoroughly perform your inspection. If your deck has wood posts or stair stringers that penetrate the dirt, probe the bearing ends for rot. Replace if necessary and this time use concrete footings to separate the wood from the dirt. Here in Massachusetts, the footings should be poured 3 1/2 to four feet deep (due to our frostline) and should terminate above ground approximately 3 to 6 inches high. It's always good to install cleats under the post to separate it from the concrete footing, which can become moist.

Cleaning will involve the removal of dirt, algae, moss, and other organic matter. In accordance with the directions that come with the cleaning solutions, it may be necessary to hose down the deck and surrounding area before applying any cleaning solutions. The water will also help dilute any chemicals that may inadvertently come into contact with surrounding plants and grass. Even with mild solutions, care must be taken to limit the amount of solution that gets on nearby plants and grass. Many cleaning solutions contain bleach, which is toxic to plants when in concentrated form. The solutions can be brushed onto the deck using a broom or can be lightly sprayed on with a power washer under low pressure. Power washers under excessive pressure can ruin the grain on your decking.

You can also give your wood surfaces (oiled, oil-stained, or painted) a good scrubbing using the following home-made formula...

1 cup of powdered laundry detergent

1/2 cup liquid chlorine bleach (if moss is present)

1 gallon of hot water

After waiting the directed length of time for the chemicals to do their work, the deck should be thoroughly rinsed. This is the step where more power can be particularly helpful, as water under low pressure can rinse out both dirt and chemicals more effectively.

However, too much pressure can gouge wood or cause the grain to become exaggerated. Within wood, the visible grain marks differences in density and hardness. Part of each grain is relatively soft wood. This softer wood can be gouged if too much pressure is used. At still higher pressures, even the harder parts of the grain can be damaged. Do not get too close to any wood when using a pressure sprayer.

SEALING

If you plan to refinish the wood after cleaning, allow the wood to completely dry before applying the finish. Once dry, resealing is accomplished by applying a clear or semi-clear liquid sealant to all exposed surfaces. Homeowners can do any of these tasks themselves, but often don't do them as well as a professional.

STAINING

If you plan on staining your deck, look for a Stain that is designed specifically for decks. Well-meaning do-it-yourselfers often end up applying stains designed for vertical surfaces, such as siding. Stains designed for use on vertical surfaces are not as abrasion resistant as those made for decks. Deck stains are made to resist scuffing where lots of traffic is expected. Always apply an oil or oil-stain finish either early or late in the day when the wood is not in full sun. The thinner that helps the oil penetrate evaporates too quickly on hot days. The oil can end up laying on the surface. Then help to force the oil or oil-stain into the surface by going back over the entire area with a paintbrush or roller (called back brushing)

Alternatives to Traditional Decking Materials

If you do not have time to maintain a traditional wood deck, there are now new decking material options. Several companies are now producing new composite decking materials that are resistant to rot, do not warp or splinter, maintains its shape, does not shrink or expand and doesn't require periodic staining. Most are made of recycled plastic or a blend of wood and plastic called Composite Decking. One brand name is that I'm familiar with is Trex Decking.

Composite decking weathers, like wood, but will age to an even tone without deteriorating. Composite decking does lack the strength of wood, however, and wont span the same distances as wood. With appropriate structural support, composite decking is well suited to first floor and above ground decks. Plastic structural beams are not readily available in all markets and tend to make the deck bouncy, so pressure-treated wood is most commonly used to support this type of decking. While widespread experience with this product is just now occurring, results look very promising. This material is more expensive initially than the common wood products used today, but they offer large savings over time due to their low-maintenance.

There's also a lifetime vinyl railing system that you can have installed with the composite decking, that'll last much longer than tradional wood. These plastic products will last a lifetime.

Ice Dams and Infrared (Thermal) Imaging

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 12:39:50 -0600

I've booked an excessive amount of ice dam calls (for help) this winter season and Infrared (Thermal) Imaging has assisted me in locating the exact cause of every last one of these ice dams.

Ice dams in Massachusetts are becoming a nuisance and are causing expensive damage to many soffit areas, gutters and the most outer portion of living area walls. First let me explain how this massive ice mound forms on the edge of your roof.

It snows and your roof will continue to accumulate this snow.

The temperature (outside) drops to below freezing.

The temperature inside your attic is above freezing, thus raising the temperature of your roofing material to above freezing.

Because of the temperature differential and the warmer roof, the snow on top of the roof starts to slowly melt and the melted snow (now water) starts to cascade down the roof (underneath all the accumulated snow) in an attempt to drain off the roof or into your gutters.

As soon as the water reaches the outer edge of the roof (where the roof will not be as warm as the attic cavity) it gets exposed to the freezing air. The cascading water now freezes into an ice mound along the edges of your roof and the gutters (if applicable).

As more and more melted snow (water) continues to cascade down your roof, it continues to freeze behind and on top of the previously frozen run off, forming a much larger ice dam. Once this ice dam takes shape, it will literally trap any water that is attempting to drain down and off the roof. Now, all the melting water is dammed and has nowhere to drain to, so it builds up. This accumulating water is simply backing up and is forced right under your roofing material and into your attic or soffit cavity (and then gravity takes over), and this water infiltration simply drips down onto your living area walls, causing the nuisance staining and damage that you are observing throughout your walls.

Preventing this ice from forming on the edge of your roof in the first place is absolutely preventable. Many homeowners are continuously researching articles on “HOW TO PREVENT ICE DAMS” and they learn that proper insulation and ventilation is necessary to prevent these ice dams. That’s fine, but after most homeowners obtain their education on “HOW TO PREVENT ICE DAMS” they may attempt to correct their ice dam situation, but are still baffled and are unable to figure out exactly where any improvement is needed. That’s why they call me.

Your solution to alleviate your ice dam issues is the use of Infrared technology. My infrared inspection is a brilliant method of providing you with an instant snapshot of any active heat loss through the most outer portion of your walls and ceilings of your home. Deficient insulation is a poor insulator, which makes it a great conductor of your conditioned air, and this is what enables me to easily detect the inefficient insulation in these areas. Thermal imaging will visually show thermal mapping of any improperly insulated ceiling and wall cavities that are causing the ice damming at the outer roof edges of your home.

Take a look at the images below and see how easy Infrared detects un-insulated cavities where ice dams are imminent...

Infrared clearly detects cold air (blue color) infiltrating the living area

Infrared detects an entire ceiling cavity missing insulation

Thermal imaging detects cold spots from improperly installed soffit vents

Infrared detects insulation issues above this bathroom ceiling.

Protecting your home from Wood Boring Insect damage

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Thu, 22 Jan 2009 10:22:16 -0600

Wood Boring Insects infest more than 700,000 homes each and every year. Your home is your biggest financial investment, and protecting it against Wood Boring Insects should be a high priority. If left unchecked, insects can systematically destroy your home and any valuable wood objects within it. Nonetheless, any discovery of insects in your home means making some difficult choices as to what steps to take in order to prevent any further damage.

A WBI inspection is usually a big deal for most of my clients. If you had a home inspection performed and it included a WBI inspection, please review your WBI report to determine if evidence of insect activity was found on your prospective property. If evidence of Wood Boring Insect activity was noted, I recommend an exterminator be contacted for treatment as soon as possible and to have a licensed Carpenter evaluate and estimate repairs for replacement of any damaged areas to include determining if hidden damage exists behind the finished walls.

Please click the images below to read more in depth information regarding that particular insect...

Termites Powder Post Carpenter Ants Carpenter Bees

Beetles

Helping your elderly relatives become safe at home.

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Tue, 13 Jan 2009 10:18:30 -0600

Being a full-time home inspector, I see people living with safety hazards every day of my life. I’m always concerned with these hazards and I’d like to assist in getting these corrected, especially for our most vulnerable people...our lovely Senior Citizens. Senior Citizens are injured in and around their homes continuously on a daily basis and I feel that the healthy surviving children should take time out of their busy schedules to help these fragile individuals in order to make sure they are safe from all harm. As you know, slips and falls are the most common source of injury for older individuals, but many other injuries result from hazards that are very easily overlooked and are very simple to fix. Most seniors are unable to fix these issues themselves, so it’s easier for us younger individuals to take the initiative to spot these hazards and then take some simple steps to correct them. Many injuries of our seniors can be prevented, and it takes a simple inspection of their living areas to make sure they live a safe life.

I’ve got 40 tips that should assist you all in keeping your older relatives safe from harm. Please use the following checklist to spot those possible safety issues which may be present in a seniors living area. Keep this checklist (in a file) as a reminder of safe practices that should be utilized, and use it periodically to re-check their living area.

Security and emergencies

1. Alarms - Check that smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms are located in each bedroom, and on each floor of multi-story homes, and in other areas where one is likely to fall asleep, such as a family room or den with a cozy recliner. Read the instructions that come with the alarms for advice on the best place to install them, but generally place them either on the ceiling or on a wall 6-12 inches below the ceiling. Also make sure to locate them away from air vents. Use the test button on the alarm to check them each month,, and replace any batteries, bulbs, or alarms that are not working properly. Many fire injuries and deaths (in the home) are caused by smoke and toxic gases rather than the fire itself. Alarms provide an early warning and can wake everyone in the event of a fire or dangerous gases. Vacuum the louvers of the alarms so that dust and dirt don’t interfere with the alarm doing its job. Replace any smoke detectors which cannot be repaired or which are older than five years. Some fire departments or local governments will provide assistance in acquiring or installing alarms. There are combination smoke/carbon monoxide alarms available, and there also are units that plug into electrical outlets.

2. Emergency exit plan - Check that they have an emergency exit plan and an alternate emergency exit plan in case of a fire. Fires can spread very rapidly, they might not have much time to get out (there might be a lot of confusion), so it is important that everyone knows what to do. Make sure your exit plan includes:

a) Shutting off the gas, water, and/or electricity whenever possible. Don’t put anyone at risk to these tasks though. Losing property is better than losing lives.
b) Emergency phone numbers for family members, police, ambulance, and fire department, and a meeting place outside of their home so you can be sure that everyone is safe.
c) Practice this fire evacuation plan from time to time to make sure everyone is familiar with it.

3. Telephone - Make sure that they have access to a telephone if they fall or experience some other emergency which prevents them from standing and reaching a wall phone. Have at least one telephone located where it would be accessible in the event of an accident which leaves them unable to stand. Many security companies now provide health and safety monitoring services which can include bracelets, necklaces, or belts that have wireless emergency contact buttons on them. Have a telephone close to their bed, so that they are able to reach it without getting out of bed.

4. Emergency number - Check that emergency numbers are posted on or near their telephone. Write the numbers in large print and tape them to their phone or place them where they can be seen easily. Emergency numbers should include those for the police, fire department, local poison control center, family doctor, and any family members or neighbors that should be notified in the event of an emergency.

Fireplaces, chimneys, cooking, and heating.

5. Fireplace and chimney - If applicable, have their chimney cleaned and checked at least annually, more often depending on how often they use the fireplace. Burning wood can cause an accumulation of creosote inside the chimney, which can ignite and result in a chimney fire. Chimneys that are clogged from leaves, wildlife nests, or other debris can result in a poor fire, poor drafting, and smoke and poisonous gases coming back into the house. Poor drafting is often indicated by soot accumulation on the walls surrounding the fireplace. If you see such conditions, or see or hear wildlife in their fireplace or chimney, do not use the fireplace until it has been checked and cleaned by a qualified chimney sweep.

6. Cooking clothing - Make sure they are wearing clothing with short or close-fitting sleeves when they are cooking. The CPSC estimates that 70% of all people who die from clothing fires are over 65 years of age. Long sleeves are more likely to catch fire than are short sleeves, and long sleeves are also more likely to catch on pot handles, overturning pots and pans and causing scalds. Roll back long, loose sleeves or fasten them with pins or elastic bands for their cooking convenience.

7. Electric blankets - Check that their electric blanket is not covered or tucked under the sides of the bed when in use. Use electric blankets according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Generally, tucking them in or placing additional coverings on top of them can cause excessive heat buildup which can start a fire or cause heat-related deaths in older people. Also, tell then not to allow pets to sleep on top of electric blankets. Don’t set electric blankets so high that they could burn someone who falls asleep while they are on.

8. Heating pads - Check that any heating pads are turned off before falling asleep. Even low settings can cause serious burns if left on.

9. Kitchen stove - Check that towels, curtains, and other things that might catch fire are located away from the stove. Placing or storing non-cooking equipment like potholders, dish towels, or plastic utensils on or near the range can result in fires or burns. Make sure they store flammable and combustible items in cabinets or drawers, not on countertops or on the range itself. Remove any towels hanging on oven handles and change the location of towel racks that cause towels to hang too close to a cook top burner. Shorten or remove curtains which could brush against heat sources.

10. Space heaters - Make sure they understand the installation and operating instructions for space heating equipment, such as a kerosene heater, a gas heater, or an LP gas heater. Always use the correct fuel as recommended by the manufacturer. Improper venting is the most frequent cause of carbon monoxide poisoning, and older consumers are at special risk. Vented heaters should have proper venting installed, and the venting system should be checked regularly. Un-vented heaters should be used with room doors open or windows slightly open to provide ventilation. Call the manufacturer or your local fire department if you have additional questions.

11. Stoves - Check that wood-burning equipment was installed properly. Wood-burning stoves should be installed by a qualified person according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions and local building codes. Local building code officials or fire marshals can provide requirements and recommendations for installation. Note that some insurance companies will not cover fire losses if wood stoves are not installed properly.

12. Stoves and space heaters - Check that small stoves and space heaters are placed where they cannot be knocked over and away from furnishings and flammable materials, such as curtains, rugs, and beds. Heaters can cause fires or serious burns if they cause them to trip or if they are knocked over. Many modern stoves and space heaters have audible alarms that warn of a unit that is knocked over and others will shut-off automatically.

Stairways

13. Horizontal run and vertical rise - Check that steps are even and of the same horizontal run and vertical rise. Even a small difference in rise or run can lead to falls. Mark any steps which are especially narrow or have risers that are higher or lower than the others. They should be especially careful of these steps when using the stairs.

14. Lighting - Check that stairs are lighted so that each step, particularly the step edges, can be clearly seen while going up and down stairs. Falls can occur if the edges of the steps are blurred or hard to see, or if depth perception is poor. Check that light switches are located at both the top and bottom of the stairs. Even if they are very familiar with the stairs, lighting is an important factor in preventing falls. They should be able to turn on the lights before they use the stairway from either end. If no other light is available, keep an operating flashlight in a convenient location at the top and bottom of the stairs. Install night lights if possible. If you plan to carpet their stairs, avoid deep pile carpeting or patterned or dark colored carpeting that can make it difficult to see the edges of the steps clearly. Paint edges of outdoor steps white to see them better at night.

15. Step coverings - Check that steps and step coverings allow secure footing and are not loose. Worn treads or worn or loose carpeting can lead to insecure footing, resulting in slips or falls. Warn them to avoid wearing only socks or smooth-soled shoes or slippers when using their stairs. Make certain the carpet is firmly attached to the steps all along the stairs. Refinish or replace worn treads, and replace worn carpeting. On outside steps, use a paint that has a rough texture, use abrasive strips, and use a different color or texture to help improve depth perception.

16. Storage - Check that nothing is stored in the stairway, even temporarily. They can trip over objects left on stairs, particularly in the event of an emergency or fire.

Electrical wiring, outlets, and lights

17. Fuses - If their home has fuses, check that they are the correct size for the circuit. Replacing a fuse with a larger size can create a fire hazard. If the fuse is rater higher than that intended for the circuit, excessive current will be allowed to flow and possibly overload the outlet and house wiring to the point that a fire can start. If you do not know the correct sizes, have an electrician identify and label the sizes to be used. From my experience as a home inspector, if all (or nearly all), fuses used are 30-amp fuses, there is a chance that some of the fuses are rated too high for the circuit. Have an Electrician evaluate and correct the panel if that is the case.

18. Lighting - Check all areas for good, even lighting that doesn’t create shadows, especially in the stairways; over the stove, sink, and work areas where power tools or sharp objects are used; passageways between rooms; and hallways. Shadows and dark areas can hide tripping hazards. Low lighting and glare can contribute to burns or cuts. Improve lighting by:
¨    Opening curtains and blinds, unless it causes too much glare.
¨    Using the maximum wattage bulb allowed by the fixture. If you do not know the correct wattage for the fixture, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts. Make sure that the bulbs you use are the right type for the light fixture; don’t permanently remove the light cover or alter the light socket in order to fit a new fluorescent bulb in the lighting fixture.
¨    Reducing glare by using frosted bulbs, indirect lighting, shades or globes on light fixtures, or partially closing the blinds or curtains.
¨    Installing additional light fixtures, e.g. under cabinet or over-the-countertop lighting.
¨    Installing night lights wherever possible for safety at night. Inexpensive lights that plug into outlets are available, and you can replace standard wall switches with switches that glow or light in darkness.
¨    Installing light switches near bedroom entrances to prevent walking through a dark area.
¨    Installing lamps or light switches within reach of beds to enable people getting up at night to see where they are going.
¨    Rearranging furniture closer to switches and moving lamps closer to beds.
¨    Keeping working flashlights and backup batteries near beds, in kitchens and bathrooms, in basements and garages, and in storage areas.
19. GFCI outlets - Have ground fault circuit interrupter outlets (GFCIs) installed in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and exterior locations. A GFCI is a shock-protection device similar to that in the picture at right which will detect electrical faults and shut off electricity before serious injury or death occurs.

20. Light bulbs - Check that light bulbs are the right size and type for the lamp or fixture. The wrong type of bulb or an oversized bulb can cause a fire because of overheating, and ceiling fixtures, recessed lights, and hooded lamps will trap heat. If you do not know the correct wattage, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts.

21. Outlet and switch cover plates - Check that all outlets and light switches have cover plates so that no wiring is exposed. Exposed wiring presents a shock hazard.

22. Overheating - Check outlets, light switches, and extension cords to see if they are unusually warm or hot to the touch, which can indicate that an unsafe wiring condition exists. Unplug cords from outlets and do not use the switches or extension cords if they are overheated. Have an electrician check the wiring.

23. Power tools - Check that power tools are equipped with a 3-prong plug or marked to show that they are double insulated. These safety features reduce the risk of an electric shock. Use a properly connected 3-prong adapter for connecting a 3-prong plug to a 2-hole receptacle. Replace old tools that do not have a 3-prong plug or are not double insulated.

24. Small appliances - Check that small electrical appliances such as hair dryers, shavers, curling irons, etc., are unplugged when not in use. Even an appliance that is not turned on can be potentially hazardous if it is left plugged in. If it falls into water in a sink or bathtub while plugged in, it could cause a lethal shock. Never reach into water to retrieve an appliance that has fallen in without being sure the appliance is unplugged. Install a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) in your bathroom outlet to protect your seniors from electric shock.

25. FillSpace heaters - Check that portable space heaters which have a 3-prong plug are being used in a 3-hole electrical outlet. The grounding feature provided by a 3-hole outlet is a safety feature designed to lessen the risk of shock. Never defeat the grounding feature by cutting off prongs or bending them out of the way. If they do not have a 3-hole outlet, use an adapter to connect the heater’s 3-prong plug but make sure the adapter has a ground wire or tab and attach it to the outlet properly.

26. Temporary wiring - Check that they are using extension cords properly:
¨ Check that it carries its proper electrical load as indicated by the labels on the cord and the appliance. Overloaded extension cords may cause fires. Standard 18 gauge extension cords can carry 1250 watts. If the rating on the cord is exceeded because of the power requirements of one or more appliances being used on the cord, change the cord to a higher rated one or unplug some appliances.
¨ Do not use cords as permanent wiring, and certainly don’t create a mess. Such conditions can cause damage to the cords and overheating, possibly resulting in a fire or personal injury. Have an electrician install new outlets for convenience and safety.

¨    Check that lamp, extension, and telephone cords are placed out of the flow of traffic. Cords stretched across walkways may cause someone to trip. Arrange furniture so that outlets are available for lamps and appliances without the use of extension cords. Place extension cords on the floor against a wall where people cannot trip over it. Move the phone so that telephone cords will not lie where people walk.
¨    Check that lamp, extension, and telephone cords are placed away from sinks. Electrical appliances and power cords can cause shock or electrocution if they come in contact with water
¨    Check that lamp, extension, and telephone cords are placed away from heat-producing appliances, such as the kitchen range and baseboard heaters. Cords can be damaged by excess heat.
¨    Check that furniture, rugs, and carpeting do not cover cords. Furniture resting on cords can damage them, creating fire and shock hazards. Electric cords which run under carpeting may cause a fire.
¨    Check that cords are not attached to walls, ceilings, or floors, with nails or staples which can damage cords, creating fire and shock hazards. Use tape, cord clips, wiring guides, or raceways to attach cords to walls or floors.
¨    Check that electrical cords in good condition and replace any damaged or worn cords. Damaged cords may cause fire and shock hazards
Bathtubs and showers
27. Grab bars - Check that bathtubs and showers have at least one (preferably two) grab bars. Grab bars can help them get into and out of their tub or shower, and can help prevent falls. Check existing bars for strength and stability, and repair if necessary. Attach grab bars, through the tile, to structural supports in the wall, or install bars specifically designed to attach to the sides of the bathtub. If you are not sure how it is done, get someone who is qualified to assist you.

28. Non-skid surfaces - Check that bathtubs and showers are equipped with non-skid mats, textured strips or appliqués, or surfaces that are not slippery. Wet, soapy tile or porcelain surfaces are especially slippery and may contribute to falls. Also place non-skid mats on the bathroom floor, especially any steps.
Miscellaneous

29. Appliances - Check that the grounding feature on appliance cords with 3-prong plugs has not been defeated by removing the grounding pin or by improperly using an adapter. Improperly grounded appliances can lead to electric shock. Check with your service person or an electrician if you are in doubt.

30. Containers—Check that containers containing flammable, poisonous, and cleaning liquids are tightly capped. If not tightly closed, vapors may escape that might be toxic when inhaled.

31. Container storage - Check that gasoline, paints, solvents, or other products that give off vapors or fumes are stored away from ignition sources such as heaters, furnaces, water heaters, ranges, and other gas appliances. Such liquids should be stored in properly labeled, non-glass safety containers, and should not be stored in living areas.

32. Exits and passageways - Check that all exits and passageways are clear of obstructions. Furniture, boxes, or other items could be an obstruction or tripping hazard, especially in the event of an emergency or fire. Rearrange furniture to open passageways and walkways, and remove boxes and clutter.

33. Fire sources - Check that ash trays, smoking materials, candles, and any other fire sources are located away from beds and bedding. Burns are a leading cause of accidental death among seniors. Burning candles and smoking in bed are major causes of fire-related deaths.

34. Kitchen ventilation - Check that kitchen ventilation systems or range exhausts are functioning properly and advise seniors to use them while they are cooking. Indoor air pollutants may accumulate to unhealthful levels in a kitchen where gas or kerosene-fire appliances are in use. Use ventilation systems or open windows to clear air of vapors and smoke.

35. Medicines - Check that medicines are stored in their original containers and that they are clearly marked with the contents, instructions, expiration date, and patient’s name, and dispose of outdated medicines properly. Unmarked medications can be easily mixed up, and taking the wrong medicine or missing a dosage can be dangerous. In homes where grandchildren or other youngsters are frequent visitors, medicines should be purchased in containers with child-resistant caps, and the caps properly closed after each use. Store medicines beyond the reach of children. Request non-child-resistant containers from your pharmacist only when you cannot use child-resistant containers.

36. Power tools - Check that power tool guards are going to be in place during use. Power tools with the guards removed pose a serious risk of injury from sharp edges or moving parts.

37. Rugs, runners, and floor mats - Check that small rugs, carpet runners, and floor mats are slip-resistant. The CPSC estimates that in 1982, over 2,500 people 65 and over were treated in hospital emergency rooms for injuries that resulted from tripping over rugs and runners. Falls are also the most common cause of fatal injury for older people. Purchase rugs with slip-resistant backing or apply double-sided adhesive carpet tape or rubber matting to the backs of rugs, runners, and mats. Over time, the adhesive on tape can wear away, and rugs with slip-resistant backing also become less effective as they are washed. Check periodically to see if the backing needs to be replaced.

38. Step ladder - Check that they have a step stool or step ladder that is stable in and good shape. Standing on chairs, boxes, or other makeshift items to reach high shelves can result in falls. If they don’t have a step stool, please purchase one. Choose one with a handrail that they can hold onto while standing on the top step. Advise them that before climbing on any step stool, that they make sure it is fully opened and stable. Tighten any loose screws or braces and discard step stools with broken parts.

39. Water temperature - Check that the water temperature is 120°F or lower. Water temperature above 120 degrees can cause scalds, especially in seniors. Lower the setting on their hot water heater to “Low” or 120°F. If you are unfamiliar with the controls of their water heater, ask a qualified person or Plumber to adjust it for you. If their hot water system is controlled by the landlord, ask the landlord to lower the setting. If the water heater does not have a temperature setting, you can use a thermometer to check the temperature of the water at the tap. Always check water temperature by hand before entering bath or shower. Taking baths, rather than showers, reduces the risk of a scald from suddenly changing water temperatures.

40. Nightwear - Older consumers should be wearing nightwear that is flame resistant, and choose garments made of tightly woven fabrics, such as 100% polyester, nylon, or wool.

Please remember to periodically re-check their home for safety issues so that your
your loved ones can live a longer and safe life.

Winter maintenance on your home

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 06:31:50 -0600

Your home is your palace and it is one of the single biggest investments you'll ever make, so be sure that you do all you can to care for it properly. When and if your thinking of Selling your home in this Buyers market, a well-maintained home usually sells more readily and will usually bring a higher price. A well maintained home is also more comfortable to live in and any regular care that you do perform, minimizes any unexpected repair work and expenses. Regularly scheduled small repairs and upgrades to your home can and will keep maintenance costs from becoming exorbitant.

It's cold outside (in many areas) right now, so I have comprised a list of home maintenance items that an be completed inside your home. Let's get started...

Clean or replace your furnace air filters every other month during this heating season. Periodically check the ventilation area outside (intake and exhaust) to make sure they are not blocked by snow or debris. Then go back inside and vacuum all the heating supply registers, return grills, baseboards or radiators.

After consulting your hot water tank owner's manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck in the closed position. (Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns and it may also cause the valve to develop a slow leak due to sediment build-up not allowing the valve to close fully. This will require a plumber to replace the TPR valve). In some areas, sludge may accumulate in the bottom of the water heater. Draining approximately 1 gallon of water from the clean-out spigot at the bottom of your tank will indicate the presence of sludge and the necessity for regular draining to control sediment and maintain it's efficiency. Be sure to shut off the power or fuel supply before draining any water from the water heater.

Clean the humidifier internal parts (if equipped), two or three times during the winter season. These parts become clogged very easily.

Vacuum bathroom fan grille or any other registers you may have in your home. I recommend removing the register grills and vacuuming inside the duct work also, (as far in as possible). Vacuum all fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning. Dust all ceiling fan blades.

Vacuum radiator grilles at the rear of refrigerators and freezers. Empty and clean the drip tray underneath the refrigerator.

Check inside bathroom vanities and kitchen sink cabinets for signs of moisture. Look for leaks at shut-off valves at sinks, toilets, laundry equipment, and main water shut-off valves. Carefully inspect all pipes for condensation or slow drips. Repair the plumbing system if necessary.

Remove mineral deposits from faucet aerators and shower heads by removing them and soaking the parts in white vinegar and scrubbing them with an old toothbrush.

Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or ice build-up. If either of these do occur, this is a sign of inadequate insulation and/or improper ventilation. Have these corrected accordingly.

Check all electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety: if worn, or if the plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately. Check the operation of all ground-fault circuit interrupter outlets by pushing the "Test" button. The "reset" button should automatically pop out, indicating the receptacle is operating properly. Now press in the "Reset" button. Check the AFCI circuit breakers inside the main electrical panel (if your home was built after 2002). Press the white "Test" button to make sure it trips. Then reset these after testing. Have a licensed Electrician replace these if they are not tripping.

Locating Missing Insulation in Concealed Areas

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Sun, 07 Dec 2008 06:14:34 -0600

All homeowners pay a lot of hard earned energy dollars to heat their homes today and I know everyone would love to cut the monthly costs of heating their homes. With the continuous rise in heating fuel costs, the only ideal way to save money is to locate and seal those breached areas of your home that are stealing your energy dollars and causing your expensive heat to escape your living areas. If you are able to retain conditioned air inside your home for a longer period of time, you will be spending much less money on the fuel that is powering your heating system. In a typical home, space conditioning and comfort bills can account for up to one-half of your home's energy bills, with the remaining portion due primarily to heating your domestic water, interior lighting, and your appliances. Knowing that space conditioning accounts for half your energy bills, I can show you how you can lower this expense now.

What you need is an infrared inspection. An infrared inspection is a brilliant method of providing you with an instant snapshot of active energy losses through the interior walls and ceilings of your home. Thermal imaging will visually show thermal mapping of any damaged, settled or improperly insulated cavities throughout your home. Appreciable temperature differences, (due to variations in thermal energy heat transfer) allow me to determine the adequacy and proper installation of the concealed insulation that is installed throughout your structure's exterior cavities. I’m able to detect obvious insulation issues while scanning your exterior ceiling and wall surfaces. Deficient insulation is a poor insulator, which makes it a great conductor of your conditioned air, and this is what enables me to easily detect the thermal anomalies in these areas. Any major differentials in surface temperature are going to be the obvious areas that are going to require you to upgrade insulation, in order for you to start saving energy bucks.

Keep in mind that there are always going to be minor air breaches in typical exterior walls and ceilings, due to wood structural members that will conduct exterior air and simply can not be insulated. But, I would like to walk you through your home and literally show you the major areas of concern where excessive air is infiltrating your conditioned living area, causing your energy bills to become sky high.

After pointing out the areas of your home that can be improved, I will be providing you with a professional report which will be highlighting those areas that are in need of an insulation upgrade. You can then use my infrared report as a guide to locate those deficient areas when upgrading or simply hire an insulation contractor who can then utilize my report as a guide to upgrading the insulation defects and fissures.

A visual inspection of this ceiling indicates that nothing is wrong, but my thermal scan reveals missing insulation throughout the outer rim board area.

This childrens room looks fine visually, but my infrared camera reveals missing insulation throughout the top portion of these stud cavities.

Visually, this wall appears to be in great shape, but my infrared scan detects missing insulation behind this attic knee space. This cold air infiltration is as bad as leaving a window ajar.

I was hired to inspect a recent installation of blown-in insulation. Visually, it looks fantastic, but infrared reveals shoddy workmanship.

Bad roofs kill R/E deals...Let me assist you in maintaining your roof.

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 08:57:54 -0600

Roof Maintenance

The roof over your head is one of the most important components of your home and I'm going to tell you how to keep it in great condition. You want to protect your lifetime investment without spending a lot of money and waiting until thousands of dollars worth of damage occur to the interior because of a roof leak. Simply place a couple hundred dollars into your annual home maintenance budget for a roofing contractor to inspect your roof on a yearly basis. Every October when you set your clocks back (or any other easily remembered day in the Fall, but definitely before the winter season), pay a qualified roofing contractor to come out and examine your roof and give it the A-OK (some roofing contractors may also provide warranties against leaks for a year or two). Now you should make it through the winter season with no problems. And a couple of hundred dollars or so in preventive maintenance for the roof is much better than waiting until it leaks and going through the anguish of a major roof leak, damage to the structure interior and furniture, and possible damage to your books, pictures, photographs, and other priceless memento's of you and your family.

Your roof covering will last a long time in our New England climate if you'll do three things: make sure your attic has (1) adequate ventilation (e.g., any combination of gable, soffit, ridge, drip edge, turbine, roof vents; and attic fans), (2) adequate insulation, and (3) give a roofing contractor a couple of hundred dollars or so each year, or toward the end of whatever warranty period the roofing contractor provides you, to inspect your roof and flashings.

SOME SIMPLE STEPS TO FOLLOW IN ORDER TO KEEP YOUR ROOF IN GREAT SHAPE...

Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes, chimneys and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.

Keep moss, algae and black stains off your roof surface. If your roof is starting to collect spots of moss or black algae and fungus lines, simply install zinc strips along the hips and ridges of your roof. The natural action of rain water time-releases zinc carbonate (a proven fungi-stat) which then washes down the roof shingles, preventing any destructive roof moss, algae and fungus growth.

Check all flashing's and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes or openings in them.

Dab some roof cement under any loose or lifting shingle tabs. One dab on either side should do.

Replace any damaged shingles.

Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them and checking flow and observe all seams for leakage.

Trim back any overhanging tree branches from the roof area.

Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.

Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it's damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.

Radon In Your Home - Why Test For Radon?

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Wed, 15 Oct 2008 08:49:44 -0500

WHAT IS RADON?

Radon is a radioactive gas. It's colorless, odorless, tasteless, and chemically inert. Unless you test for it, there is no way of telling how much is presently in your home.

Radon is formed by the natural radioactive decay of radium and uranium in rock, soil, and water. Naturally existing, low levels of uranium occur widely in the Earth's crust. It can be found in all 50 states. Once produced, radon moves through the ground to the air above. Some remains below the surface and dissolves in water that collects and flows under the ground's surface.

Radon has a half-life of about four days - half of a given quantity of it breaks down every four days. When radon undergoes radioactive decay, it emits ionizing radiation in the form of alpha particles. It also produces short-lived decay products, often called progeny or daughters, some of which are also radioactive. Unlike radon, the progeny are not gases and can easily attach to dust and other particles. Those particles can be transported by air and can also be breathed. The decay of progeny continues until stable, non-radioactive progeny are formed. At each step in the decay process, radiation is released.

HOW DOES RADON GET INTO YOUR HOME?

Most indoor radon comes into the building from the soil or rock beneath it. Radon and other gases rise through the soil and get trapped under the building. The trapped gases build up pressure. Air pressure inside homes is usually lower than the pressure in the soil. Therefore, the higher pressure under the building forces gases though floors and walls and into the building. Most of the gas moves through cracks and other openings. Once inside, the radon can become trapped and concentrated.

Openings which commonly allow easy flow of the gases into your home:

*Cracks in floors and walls

*Gaps in suspended floors

*Openings around sump pumps and drains

*Cavities in walls below grading

*Gaps around utility penetrations (pipes and wires)

*Crawl spaces that open directly into the building

Radon may also be dissolved in water, particularly well water. After coming from a faucet, about one ten thousandth of the radon in water is typically released into the air. The more radon there is in the water, the more it can contribute to the indoor radon level. Trace amounts of uranium are sometimes incorporated into materials used in construction. These include, but are not limited to concrete, brick, granite, and drywall. Though these materials have the potential to produce radon, they are rarely the main cause of an elevated radon level in a building. Outdoor air that is drawn into a building can also contribute to the indoor radon level.

The average outdoor air level is about 0.4 pCi/L, but it can be higher in some areas. While radon problems may be more common in some geographic areas, any home may have an elevated radon level. New and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements can have a problem.

Radon levels can be higher in homes that are well insulated, tightly sealed, and/or built on uranium-rich soil. Because of their closeness to the ground, basement and first floors typically have the highest radon levels. All homes below the third floor of a multi-family building are particularly at risk.

Health effects associated with Radon exposure?

There have been no reports of short-term effects or symptoms caused by radon exposure. The only reported long-term effect is lung cancer. The Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. There are currently no conclusive data on whether children are at greater risk than adults from radon. No specific subtype of lung cancer is associated with radon exposure. Scientists estimate that approximately 15,000 to 22,000 lung cancer deaths per year are related to radon.

Radon is present in nearly all air. Everyone breathes in radon every day, usually at very low levels. However, people who inhale high levels of radon are at an increased risk for developing lung cancer. If you inhale a radon atom, the atom can disintegrate while it is in your lungs. When it disintegrates, it becomes polonium-218, which is a metal. This metal atom can get trapped in your lungs, and over the next hour or so it will emit a number of alpha particles, beta particles and gamma rays.

It eventually turns into lead-210 with a half-life of 22 years, which is fairly stable in this context. But now you have an atom of lead in your system, which causes its own problems. It?s the quick, hour-long sequence of alpha, beta and gamma emissions that can lead to the mutations in the lung tissue, which can cause lung cancer over the course of your lifetime.

Smoking enormously increases the risk of lung cancer from radon exposure. If you smoke and you are exposed to elevated radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high. Stop smoking now and lower your radon level to reduce your lung cancer risk. Not everyone exposed to elevated levels of radon will develop lung cancer, and the amount of time between exposure and the onset of the disease may be many years. Breathing radon does not cause any short-term health effects such as shortness of breath, coughing, headaches, or fever.

So, you can see that a high concentration of radon gas, despite the fact that it is completely natural, is not something you want in your home.

WHAT IS THE "ACCEPTABLE" LEVEL OF RADON IN AIR?

4.0 pCi/L or LESS (According to the EPA)

HOW OFTEN IS INDOOR AIR A PROBLEM?

Nearly one out of every 15 homes in the United States has a radon level EPA considers to be elevated - 4 pCi/L or greater. The U.S. average radon-in-air level in single family homes is 1.3 pCi/L. Because most people spend as much as 90 percent of their time indoors, indoor exposure to radon is an important concern.

Radon Risk Comparison Charts

Radon Risk If You Smoke

Radon Level	*If 1,000 people who smoked were exposed to this level over a lifetime...**	The risk of cancer from radon exposure compares to...**	WHAT TO DO: Stop smoking and...
20 pCi/L	About 260 people could get lung cancer	250 times the risk of drowning	Mitigate Building
10 pCi/L	About 150 people could get lung cancer	200 times the risk of dying in a home fire	Mitigate Building
8 pCi/L	About 120 people could get lung cancer	30 times the risk of dying in a fall	Mitigate Building
4 pCi/L	About 62 people could get lung cancer	5 times the risk of dying in a car crash	Mitigate Building
2 pCi/L	About 32 people could get lung cancer	6 times the risk of dying from poison	May consider mitigating between 2 and 4 pCi/L
1.3 pCi/L	About 20 people could get lung cancer	Average indoor radon level	Reducing radon levels below 2 pCi/L is difficult.
0.4 pCi/L	About 3 people could get lung cancer	Average outdoor radon level	Reducing radon levels below 2 pCi/L is difficult.
Note: If you are a former smoker, your risk may be lower. * Lifetime risk of lung cancer deaths from EPA Assessment of Risks from Radon in Homes (EPA 402-R-03-003). ** Comparison data calculated using the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's 1999-2001 National Center for Injury Prevention and Control Reports.

Radon Risk If You've Never Smoked

Radon Level	*If 1,000 people who never smoked were exposed to this level over a lifetime...**	The risk of cancer from radon exposure compares to...**	WHAT TO DO:
20 pCi/L	About 36 people could get lung cancer	35 times the risk of drowning	Mitigate Building
10 pCi/L	About 18 people could get lung cancer	20 times the risk of dying in a home fire	Mitigate Building
8 pCi/L	About 15 people could get lung cancer	4 times the risk of dying in a fall	Mitigate Building
4 pCi/L	About 7 people could get lung cancer	The risk of dying in a car crash	Mitigate Building
2 pCi/L	About 4 person could get lung cancer	The risk of dying from poison	Consider fixing between 2 and 4 pCi/L
1.3 pCi/L	About 2 people could get lung cancer	(Average indoor radon level)	(Reducing radon levels below 2 pCi/L is difficult.)
0.4 pCi/L		(Average outdoor radon level)	(Reducing radon levels below 2 pCi/L is difficult.)
Note: If you are a former smoker, your risk may be higher. * Lifetime risk of lung cancer deaths from EPA Assessment of Risks from Radon in Homes (EPA 402-R-03-003). ** Comparison data calculated using the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's 1999-2001 National Center for Injury Prevention and Control Reports.

TESTING HOMES FOR DRUG USE WITHIN

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Sun, 07 Sep 2008 14:59:56 -0500

Houses can be tested for drugs just as simple as an individual gets tested. But...when you're purchasing a home, you're objective is not to pinpoint an individual drug user at this point in time. You want to test the actual components of the home to verify that the home is not contaminated with drugs (See pictures above). You want to find out whether or not previous owners have ever made, distributed or even used specific drugs in the dream home that you are planning on purchasing.

Some drugs have had lingering health effects in many homes that it has prompted local health officials to board them up until a professional cleanup is performed. Another important item of concern would be the safety of your children. As you know, children touch everything in sight and if drugs are present on the surfaces of a home, the results could be devastating. Testing for drugs in your prospective home now will give you the opportunity to get a sneak peek at what's actually been going on behind closed doors. My drug testing will give you peace of mind knowing that drug residue definitely does or does not exist on surfaces throughout the home. You can then proceed with your next step in purchasing the property. Avoid waiting for any accidents that could happen from exposure to drug residues.

My drug testing tool is patented technology that can instantly detect and identify 5 major types of illegal narcotics on any non-porous surface within a home. It gives me the ability to detect trace amounts of Cocaine, Amphetamine or Methamphetamine, Opiates (Heroin), and Marijuana (Cannabis) down to the nanogram level. This test utilizes patented biosensors that allow me to detect and identify invisible amounts of drug types, their patterns and their exact location. I will then provide you data on the intensity, type, and the location of any illegal drug activity within that particular home.

This test differentiates itself from other drug detection products that are currently available on the market today because it tests for the actual raw drug. Any trafficking residue can be easily detected as well as the sweat that was secreted and deposited on surfaces from drug impaired users. When an individual is blood-impaired or high on a particular drug they will actually sweat out the raw drug. They will then leave their sweat on multiple surfaces throughout the home by touching them. These surfaces include doors - knobs and trim, handrails, walls, light switches, worktables, sink fixtures, countertops, windows, etc. I can test every one of these surfaces to determine whether or not there were illegal drugs on the property. At the conclusion of my testing, I will record your results into a report and hand them to you. You can then take your next step into purchasing this home.

If you think this drug testing is an invasion of privacy, it is not. If you (the Buyer) will eventually own the property being tested, then you have the absolute right to test it for drug residues. It's not considered to be invasive at all. At this point of the sale, if the Sellers didn't do anything wrong, then there's nothing to worry about. Don't wait until it's too late, as drug clean-ups can cost you thousands of dollars. Home Buyers Nightmare

If you are reading this and are not purchasing a home but are simply curious if drug residues do actually exist within your home or workplace, please call me at 978-683-4984 to discuss quantifying you and your family's risks.

This drug test has been used by over 1,000 local and state government agencies since the late 1990's, but it is now on the market for private businesses (such as mine) to determine the presence of drugs in specific environments. Today, it is currently being used by the DEA, FBI and US Customs and has been a vital part of the Office of National Drug Control Policy Technology Transfer program. This advanced technology produces field reliable results within minutes on-site.

GFCI Receptacles - Why they are so important

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 05:15:56 -0500

WHAT IS A GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER?

These are receptacles that typically have the black and red test buttons on them (pictured above). GFCIs are found in outlets and service panels. They monitor the flow of current to and from appliances. If there's an imbalance in the flow, because of a frayed wire, a ground fault or a faulty device, current may attempt to travel through you, but the GFCI will quickly cut power to prevent any serious injury. Unless you have an outlet with a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI), you may be seriously shocked or burned because you may be the shortest route to the ground. Although they prevent electrocution, there is still a risk of electric shock.

GFCI Receptacles (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) - Safety Receptacles

They are required (by code) in many areas where electricity and water may come into contact. These areas include bathrooms, kitchen receptacles for countertop use within 6 feet of any sink, basements, pools, spas, laundry and utility rooms, garages and all receptacles located on the exterior of the home. At least one GFCI outlet is required in an unfinished basement.

There are GFCI outlets and GFCI-protected outlets which are outlets that are "downstream" of GFCI outlets, meaning that they are on the same circuit as a GFCI outlet, but do not have the red and black buttons on them. If there is no electricity to a GFCI-protected outlet, the GFCI outlet (at a separate location) might have tripped and disconnected electricity to this particular circuit. The reset button must be pressed in order to restore electricity to any downstream outlets.

You should test the GFCI outlets as soon as you move in, noting at the same time any protected outlets that may be present and which GFCI outlets control those protected outlets; typically the protected outlets should be labeled as such. Although they are proven life-saving devices, they are known to fail on a regular basis and should be tested monthly to ensure that they are functioning properly. DEFECTIVE GFCI's can become deadly.

To test the GFCI outlet, first plug a nightlight or lamp into the outlet. Turn the light on, and then press the "TEST" button on the GFCI outlet. The GFCI outlet's "RESET" button should pop out, and the light should go out. If the GFCI outlet is functioning properly, meaning that the light does go out, press the "RESET" button to restore power to the outlet. If the "RESET" button pops out but the light does not go out, either the GFCI outlet is not working properly or it is incorrectly wired. Call a qualified electrician to evaluate the problem. Usually the kitchen GFCI outlet will control any other outlets in the kitchen (sometimes more than one GFCI outlet is present in the kitchen). Sometimes all the bathroom outlets are placed on the same circuit, with only one GFCI outlet protecting the outlets in all the bathrooms. Occasionally a GFCI outlet in the garage will protect outlets in various bathrooms. Such garage installations can be inconvenient, particularly in multi-story buildings.

If GFCI outlets trip regularly, consult a qualified electrician immediately to determine why the tripping is occurring. GFCI outlets trip quite often when hair dryers are used on the circuit due to the electricity surge typically needed to start the dryer. If you notice this happening, try starting the dryer on the lowest setting and then moving up to the higher setting after a few seconds. If your circuit continues to trip, consult a qualified electrician for further evaluation.

How To Maintain Your Heating System

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:58:36 -0500

There are many home Buyers out there (today) that do not know how to maintain their heating system. I'd like to explain the procedures here at ActiveRain so that Realtors can supply this information or this link to their Home Buyer clients. I'd like to see homeowners become fully aware of what a heating system requires in order to keep their expensive heating system functional for many years to come.

TYPES OF HEATING

Depending upon where you live and how your house was built, your home may have any of several different types of climate systems that help you to enjoy your interior spaces year-round. Forced-air Furnaces, Forced-hot water Boilers and Steam Boilers (fueled by gas or oil) are very common types of heating here in Massachusetts. Other types of heating systems that I see (but are not so common in Massachusetts) are radiant floors or ceilings, Electric baseboards, Heat Pumps and Wood and Pellot burning stoves.

Furnaces, Boilers, Electric baseboards, Heat Pumps and radiant heating systems can be unique in their operation and maintenance. My examination of your heating and cooling systems is mechanically limited since the units are not dismantled to examine the interior components. All heating and cooling appliances, including electric baseboards and radiant heating systems are tested by operating the thermostat or controls as a user would normally operate them on a daily basis. Gas shutoff valves are absolutely not tested.

Your heating equipment should be inspected and serviced on an annual basis. Before close of escrow, I highly recommend obtaining from the Seller any documents concerning regular maintenance and service and a safety check by public utility, or a complete system evaluation by a qualified heating specialist, particularly if heating components cannot be proven to have been inspected within the past twelve months. Utility companies will typically, but not always, provide a free safety check of all gas-using appliances.

FORCED AIR SYSTEMS (Hot and Cool)

In a forced Hot air heating system, the heat exchanger in a furnace is warmed by the burning fuel that is below it. A blower fan circulates the air from inside the home over the warm heat exchanger. This warmed air is then circulated throughout the home. This process heats the home through the floor, wall or ceiling registers.

In some homes, the forced hot air heating ducts are also used for Central air conditioning, which is an electric powered split-system. The two prime components of the system include the compressor unit and the evaporator unit. (Notice: The outside compressor unit has an average twelve to fifteen year service life with proper maintenance.) The heaviest, noisiest, heat-shedding components--the compressor and condenser coil, are installed outdoors, while the evaporator coil is installed indoors, usually in the form of an A-frame in the plenum of the forced-air furnace. In this case, the furnace's blower moves the interior warm air over the coils and distributes it into a chilled air. Two refrigerant lines run between the compressor and evaporator. The larger line (vapor line) should always be insulated to maintain temperature and prevent it from sweating. A condensate drain line runs from the indoor evaporator to a drainage point. This drain line may be connected to a device called a condensate pump if the installation elevation requires pumping the condensate up to an outside draining area.

The central air conditioning system shares the same duct distribution system and blower unit filter as the heating furnace in order to deliver cool conditioned air to the habitable rooms serviced by the system. One of the most important things you can do to maintain your forced air furnace and keep it running smoothly and efficiently is change your air filters on a regular basis. Once every three or four months is about right and it will prolong the life of your Furnace and improve the quality of your indoor air as a result. As you install the new air filter, make sure to have the arrows pointing in the direction of the air flow. Just remember, the air flows into the return duct towards the blower compartment. Disposable filters are recommended, but you may utilize a washable one made of steel or soft mesh. At the start of each heating season, open the blower compartment of your heater and make a visual inspection. Gently scrape the dust and grime off the blower blades with a screwdriver or putty knife. Most modern blower motors are sealed and self-lubricating. But if you have an older system, the motor may have an oil reservoir. If so, you should fill it at the start of the heating season.

If you have a gas furnace, a professional tuning and cleaning every two years is a good idea. Electric furnaces should be professionally inspected every two years and for oil furnaces; it's a good idea to schedule a tuning every year. If you have an older furnace (15 years or more), I highly recommend that you request your HVAC technician to literally inspect the Heat Exchanger for any cracks, holes or leaks, as my furnace inspection is mechanically limited since the furnace compartments require dismantling to examine this particular area. A Heat Exchanger inspection is vital because a deteriorated heat exchanger could allow deadly products of combustion into your living area.

BOILER SYSTEMS (Forced Hot Water)

For a Boiler, water is heated, usually to between 160 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Pumps circulate this hot water through the pipes in the building. This heated water warms the radiators or baseboards that are installed in the rooms. These radiators and baseboards, in turn, warm the air in the room. Boiler systems need regular maintenance to keep them operating efficiently. There is a danger of scalding or steam burns when working around a boiler system, so any maintenance to the boiler should be left to the licensed plumbing professionals.

I recommend that you have your boiler serviced annually to maintain proper efficiency. Some older circulating pumps require periodic oiling at the 3 small ports on top of the pump itself. If your boiler is equipped with these older pumps, verify that your plumber is oiling these ports. Routine annual inspection and cleaning by a qualified, licensed Plumber will keep your hot-water system running for many years to come without trouble.

A dirty, inefficient boiler will cost you far more than the service call. The serviceman catches little problems before they become big trouble. And a neglected system fails years sooner than a well-maintained one. Annual service keeps the system running properly and heads off most problems. You should also keep an eye on the system to make sure that all is well between inspections.

BOILER SYSTEMS (Steam)

Steam heat is an older style heating system, typically installed in buildings constructed before the 1950s. Water is heated in a boiler in a similar manner but does not utilize any circulating water. The boiling water is heated until it becomes steam. Steam, which is a gas, rises through the heat pipes and into the cast iron radiators. The rising steam causes these radiators to become hot. These radiators warm the air in a building.

Most steam boilers need water added every few days during the cold weather periods of winter. Some steam boilers have automatic water fill valves that will automatically add water when the water level becomes too low. If your boiler fails to start when the thermostat is calling for heat, it could be the result of the low water cut-off valve shutting the system down due to an insufficient water level. Check the glass tube on the side of the boiler. Make sure that there is a sufficient water level. If not, add water to boiler until the glass tube water level reaches 3/4 from the top. Never overfill this glass tube as water will start exiting from air vents and radiators. What a mess this will turn out to be.

Your Steam boiler will also need a weekly draining to keep sediment from building up inside and potentially blocking or clogging the interior components and valves. I recommend draining approximately 2 gallons or until the exiting water begins to clear up.

RADIATORS

Radiators usually aren't the most attractive element in the room, so most people try to disguise or hide them. But this can significantly reduce the amount of heat that reaches the room. Air needs to circulate underneath the radiator, so avoid pushing furniture up against the radiator or covering it with draperies. If you like to have a shelf or cabinet around your radiator, make it easy to remove during the heating season. If you paint your radiator, be sure to use the right type of paint - choose one that's made specifically for "high-heat" applications. Otherwise it may crack or peel within a few days. Keep in mind that multiple layers of paint can also cut down on the amount of heat that reaches the room.

There is an easy way to improve the efficiency of your radiators - just add a reflecting panel behind it. You can purchase them at a home center or hardware store, or you can fashion your own with a piece of plywood or paneling and place smooth sheets of aluminum foil onto this material. If you feel that a certain radiator makes a room too hot, you can shut it down completely by turning the control knob on the lower end of the radiator or just turn the bleed valve that is located on the upper side (if equipped) in order to lower the temperature itself.

HEAT PUMPS

Essentially, a heat pump is an air-conditioner working in reverse. In the summer, a heat pump functions like a normal air-conditioner when the temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. (Use of A/C mode at colder outside temperatures could damage your compressor). In the cooler months, the heat pump will be operated in a reverse mode.

In this reverse mode, the heat pump heats a building by extracting the available heat energy from the outside air or underground water. Heat pumps are most effective at saving energy when in the heating mode. The problem with an air-source heat pump in a cold climate, however, is that your household needs more heat as the temperature outside goes down-- but the heat pump works less efficiently at lower outdoor temperatures. Below a temperature known as the "balance point," normally from 30 to 45 degrees F, supplementary heat is required and that means that expensive electrical-resistance heating now kicks in. In this particular mode, the heat pump can be quite expensive to operate.

Heat-pump performance will deteriorate without regular maintenance and service. The difference between the energy consumption of a well-maintained heat pump and a severely neglected one ranges from 10 to 25 percent. Always make sure you turn the power on at least 24 hours before using A/C or the Heat pump. Never cycle quickly between the two operating modes as this could damage your system.

REGULAR MAINTENANCE

Either the homeowner or service technician can perform the following routine maintenance tasks:

-Clean or replace filters regularly (every 2 to 3 months, depending on operating time and amount of dust in the environment).

-Clean the outdoor Condenser coils as often as necessary (when dirt build-up is visible on the outside of the coil). Also, remove all plant life and debris from around the outdoor Condenser.

-Clean evaporator coil and condensate pan (located above the heat exchanger area) every 2 to 4 years.

-Clean the blower's fan blades (located in the lower plenum).

-Clean every supply and return register and straighten out their fins.

PROFESSIONAL MAINTENANCE

You should have a professional HVAC technician service your heat pump every year. The technician should be:

-Inspecting ducts, filters, blower, and indoor coil for dirt build-up and other obstructions.

-Diagnose and seal any duct leakage.

-Verify adequate airflow by measurement.

-Verify correct refrigerant charge by measurement.

-Check for any refrigerant leaks.

-Inspect electric terminals, and if necessary, clean and tighten connections, and apply a nonconductive coating.

-Lubricate motors, and inspect belts for tightness and wear.

-Verify correct electric control, making sure that heating is locked out when the thermostat calls for cooling and vice versa.

-Verify correct thermostat operation.

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

Motorized equipment, like your heating system, requires regular adjustments, burner cleaning, parts replacement, repairs, venting inspection, and other checks. Licensed experts know your equipment and the necessary codes to follow. Your heating contractor can help make your equipment operate with peak efficiency, last longer, and save you money year after year. Having an annual service plan in place will also guarantee you an on-call, 24 hour a day service technician to arrive at your house in case of a heating emergency.

HEARTH APPLIANCES

Some homes have wood-burning stoves, pellot-burning stoves, or fireplaces. While a stove or fireplace can warm a building, it cannot be counted on to provide continuous heat. All of these systems require that the fuel be replenished on an ongoing basis. While this may suit a quiet getaway weekend in the Massachusetts country, it is seldom a match with modern lifestyles. Only depend upon a wood-burning stove, pellot-burning stove, or fireplace as a supplemental source of heat.

It is best to burn only seasoned wood for maximum heat release, less creosote buildup, and economy. Avoid burning green (unseasoned) wood which may contain up to 50% of its weight in moisture and needs to be burned off before any heat can reach your house.

Stovepipes and chimney flues should be inspected by a chimney professional each year before you use your stove. They should check for all signs of deterioration such as cracked flue liners, leaks, warping, baffle gaps, broken or missing bricks, heavy creosote deposits, bird nests and other foreign material. Thoroughly clean the flue and stovepipe of any soot and other residues. The stovepipe and chimney should be inspected frequently during the heating season for creosote buildup. If you use an air-tight stove, check the stovepipe at least once a month. Your chimney cleaning schedule will depend on how frequently your stove is used and how it is operated.

Purchasing a home with lead paint and piping.

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Thu, 22 May 2008 16:36:22 -0500

Lead - What is it?

Lead has been mined, smelted, and compounded for thousands of years. Lead is a neurotoxin metallic element that was historically used in paint, gasoline and plumbing materials for many years. Lead was easy to work with for a variety of purposes, which is why mining and smelting of lead has caused millions of tons to be spread into our environment. Lead poisoning occurs only when too much lead accumulates in the body.

Generally, lead poisoning occurs slowly, resulting from the gradual accumulation of lead in bone and tissue after repeated exposure. However, it is important to note that young children absorb 50% of a lead ingestion while adults absorb only 10%. Pregnant women should be especially cautious of lead exposure. The presence of lead dust can cause difficulties during pregnancy. Lead enters the bloodstream and can pass the placental barrier from the mother to the unborn child. The fetus can then be poisoned before birth.

Lead is very dangerous for children under the age of six because it is absorbed more readily into their blood and stored more easily in their bones and internal organs. Lead can be absorbed by the body, primarily through the lungs and stomach. If a child is overexposed to lead it can cause disastrous consequences including the possibility of irreversible brain and nervous system damage. Lead poisoned infants, children, and fetuses can suffer from permanent learning disabilities, behavioral problems, hearing problems, developmental delays, reduced hand-eye coordination and other serious health conditions. Even children who appear healthy can have lead poisoning. If you think your child or other family members may be at risk, contact your physician or local health department for testing, immediately.

WHERE CAN LEAD BE FOUND?

DRINKING WATER - is a potential source of lead. This is usually from lead in solder, fixtures and lead piping in the home. Some water pipes in homes built before the 1930's were made of lead, especially the main water pipe that penetrates the foundation. In both old and new homes, lead solder was also used in copper piping. Both of these can be a source of lead in your drinking water. I will be inspecting all visible piping within the building and any lead piping that is found, will absolutely be noted and highlighted in the PLUMBING section of your inspection report.

A variety of lead pipes

HOUSE PAINTS - Most houses built prior to World War II had lead-based paint applied to the interior or exterior surfaces. It was used until 1978, when it was banned. Some of these paints still remain inside older homes and may be particularly hazardous if in poor condition (chipped or peeling) or if disturbed by sanding or abrasion (creating lead dust).

Lead was used in paint because it lasted forever in the environment and never broke down into a harmless substance. The amount of lead in paint was reduced in 1950 and further reduced again in 1978. Houses built before 1950 are very likely to contain lead paint while houses built after 1950 will have less lead in the paint. House paints sold today have very low levels of lead.

Lead paint that needs immediate attention

Lead dust is released from chipping and peeling paint; home renovation projects that disturb lead paint; and lead paint ground up by friction, such as on window sashes, porch floors, etc. Because children naturally engage in hand-to-mouth activities, they are more likely to accidentally ingest lead.Over many years, painted surfaces usually crumble into household dust. This dust clings to toys, fingers and other objects that children normally put into their mouths. This is the most common way lead gets into your child's system.

Children also get dangerous lead levels into their bodies by chewing on lead painted surfaces. Some young children even eat paint chips that are peeling or chipping. The taste is what makes them come back for more. Believe it or not, Lead paint taste sweet, so children and pets are attracted to the taste of lead paint. In accordance with Massachusetts law, any unit or single family home with an occupant who is less than six years old must be deleaded.

TESTING FOR LEAD PAINT

To determine the presence of lead in paint, dust, water, and soil is best done by trained professionals. Massachusetts requires all lead inspectors to be state-certified.

Professional testing companies use three basic methods to measure lead in paint:

1) X-ray fluorescence (XRF) uses portable detectors that X-ray a painted surface to measure the amount of lead in all the layers of paint. This type of testing is done in the home and disturbs little, if any, paint.

2)Laboratory testing of paint samples involves removing samples of paint from each surface to be tested, usually from an area of about two square inches. Samples are sent to laboratories for analysis. This method leaves a bare spot on each surface tested.

3)Spot checks are performed with swabs. Swabs do not tell you how much lead is present and their reliability at detecting low levels of lead has not been determined. Professional testing for lead in paint is highly recommended. If you are seeking a professional lead inspection in order to obtain a Certificate stating that a specific home is free of Lead paint, I do not issue lead Certificates. You must contact a Lead Abatement company from your area.

Despite efforts to reduce lead in the average American home, the Department of Housing and Urban Development estimated that as of December 2004, 38 million homes in the United States still contained lead paint to some degree. HUD also figures that 25% of the country's residential buildings contain significant lead-based paint hazards. That's about 24 million homes with either deteriorating lead-based paint or lead-contaminated dust.

In 1992, the Lead-Based Paint Hazard Reduction Act required disclosure of known lead hazards at the time a house is sold or leased, if that home was built before 1978. (Houses built before 1960 are classed as high risk and are almost certain to have at least some lead-based paint.

Problems with the 1992 act stem from the lack of testing in many older homes. If you purchase an older home, the interior and exterior need to be tested thoroughly for the presence of lead-based paint before you can occupy the home safely.

Infrared Detects Faulty Electrical Wiring, Breakers and Fuses

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Fri, 02 May 2008 10:51:35 -0500

Infrared electrical inspections are completely safe, fast, and very reliable. These inspections are non contact and can be performed at any time of the day without disturbing the occupants or shutting down the electrical supply to your home.

Nearly everything that transmits electricity will get very hot before it finally fails. A cost effective power management is critical to maintaining the reliability of the electrical system throughout your home before it causes a fire. A deficient connection between electrical components can result in resistance which will manifest in an apparent temperature elevation when compared to similar types of connections under similar load conditions. Electrical hot spots can be identified in many areas throughout your home, which include faulty wiring, overloads at electrical connections and components throughout your home, overloaded or undersized circuits, defective circuit breakers that are in need of immediate replacement, hot branch wiring, defective wall switches and outlets, as well as any loose overheating connections, especially with any aluminum wiring connections.

I will safely scan all electrical equipment in and around your home, looking for thermal patterns that indicate a heating anomaly. Most of your electrical connections will always appear as "Hot" areas, but the more severe heating anomalies will be detected with infrared imaging and this fire issue will be brought to your attention immediately. I will then prepare a detailed infrared electrical report that will include both thermal and digital images in a side by side comparison format. Your report will detail the absolute temperature measurements along with outlining the severity of the anomaly and will include recommendations to have any dangerous situations corrected.

An undetected electrical weakness in your home can lead to deadly house fires and a catastrophic failure of your electrical system. For the safety of you and your family, I recommend you have your entire electrical system thermally scanned on an annual basis.

This panel is absolutely fine, but the IR image (on the right) is detecting 3 hot spots. Only an experienced Thermographer will be able to properly interpret those three hot spots as normal temperatures for AFCI breakers.

Now...we've got issues

Locating Wood Boring Insects with Infrared (Thermal) Imaging

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Sat, 05 Apr 2008 11:06:40 -0500

One very important finding with thermal imaging would be wood boring insect infestations. It's crucial in locating any hidden Termite or Carpenter Ant damage much sooner than later. Colonies can become so catastrophic and cause expensive structural damage to your home without you even knowing it. A small termite colony can form and cause extensive damage to a building in as little as six weeks, so vigilance plays an important role in preventing these types of infestations.

When Termites or Carpenter Ants do invade buildings, the normal heat patterns of concealed structural members (inside walls and floors) are changed causing the damaged areas to be detected with infrared. Basically, the density of the wood changes due to the wood members being destroyed. The damaged wood members will emit a slightly different temperature than the solid wood members. This difference in temperature is quite obvious and visible to the trained eye with thermal imaging.

My thermal imaging camera records this change in heat patterns and will indicate the exact location of the Wood Boring Insect infestation (See images below). The color image will show hot spots as red or yellow and cold spots as blue or purple and these heat patterns can indicate Wood Boring Insect infestations if interpreted correctly. My technology allows for early detection of a termite problem, and eradication could proceed before the damage is too great, thus saving the owner thousands of dollars in repairs at some future date.

Visually, this wall looks great, but infrared detects Termite Activity.

Existing homeowners can also use my thermal imaging services so that they are not over-charged by exterminators who do not accurately identify the Termite or Carpenter Ant problems for subsequent treatment. There are instances where the concealed Wood Boring Insect damage is minor but the exterminator is telling you the opposite or is simply guessing. Infrared imaging can verify the extent of the insect damage.

You may be wondering, "How can a camera detect concealed termite colonies"? Well, let's take Termites for example. When termites do invade buildings, their presence alters the normal heat patterns of the floors and walls. Termites are cold-blooded creatures, but their metabolic processes will produce heat. Termites also work to control their thermal environment by building moist mud tunnels, which appear as cool spots in the wall cavities. These cool spots and any structural damage are quite visible during a typical thermal scan. Thermal imaging is an environmentally friendly, limited chemical and radiation option. Using very specific information about the pests' location, I am able to determine the most effective location for placing the fumigation chemicals. This protects the homeowner and the environment. After the initial fumigation is completed, thermal imaging can be used again to follow-up on eradication efforts, and help to ensure that termite infestation is nothing but a bad memory.

My inspection results will be captured and then documented into a professional report, providing you with tangible proof of all my wood boring insect findings.

http://www.massinfrared.com

LOCATING RADIANT HEAT PIPING WITH INFRARED (THERMAL IMAGING)

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:41:43 -0500

Radiant heating systems are installed in many floors and ceilings of homes and businesses throughout Massachusetts. The continuous supply pipes for these systems are not visible and are unable to be monitored (on a continuing basis) in order to ensure that the piping is always functioning properly and not leaking. Something as important as (concealed) radiant heating should always be monitored on an annual basis. An unknown radiant heating system leak can waste energy and cause major property damage if not repaired in a timely manner. Locating the exact area of a leaking hot water pipe which is buried under a concrete slab can be quite time consuming. It can take quite the physical process of tearing up or breaking up big areas of the flooring in order to locate the leak site. If the location of a leak is not found quickly and accurately, floors can often wind up becoming severely damaged and very costly to repair. I'm finding that many of the older style steel and copper floor pipes are now failing and causing serious damage to structures without anyone even knowing about this concealed defect until the moisture issue becomes quite obvious or until I show up with my infrared camera.

I will always have a convenient and very simple solution for locating and monitoring all those hidden radiant heating pipes. My infrared (thermal imaging) camera detects differentiating thermal patterns of buried heating pipes which enables me to pinpoint the exact piping locations and monitor for concealed leaks under any floor or ceiling material. My infrared imaging camera is so sensitive that I'm able to map out an entire radiant heat system (no matter what size it is; revealing where all the tubing is located within your floor or ceiling. Not only am I able to locate the piping, I'm also able to detect the temperature of the tubing itself, and locate any hidden leaks that may be yet undetected.

If you plan on renovating or remodeling on top of or in proximity of a radiant heating system, I highly recommend having your radiant piping completely examined and have all the buried pipes clearly marked out before you undertake any construction work. Without knowing where those radiant pipes are located, construction around a radiant area could become very expensive if one of those pipes all of the sudden becomes punctured.

I've had many radiant inspections where I've detected irregular patterns in the embedded radiant lines with improper spacing between the pipes themselves (See image below). These particular pipes were not properly secured in place while the mortar was being poured over them, which caused them to be pushed out of position, permanently. It's always nice to know exactly where those radiant pipes are laid and if they are all spaced out in a straight sequence. There are also instances where radiant heat coils can be close enough to some surfaces that you could end up driving a drill bit or hardware right through one of those pipes. That would cause you down time and exorbitant expenses by having the system shut down and then paying contractors to jack hammer a good portion of the floor in order to access and repair the leak that would have never happened in the first place if you hired me to map the entire radiant heating system.

NOTE THE IMPERFECTIONS IN THIS RADIANT PIPING

Have your radiant heating pipes marked out today. Visit my website at http://www.massinfrared.com

Detecting moisture intrusion with infrared (thermal) imaging

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Sun, 09 Mar 2008 05:38:53 -0500

Moisture is the leading cause of costly building upgrades today. Scanning interior surfaces of your building can reveal excess moisture due to roof leaks, plumbing leaks, moisture entering your building at wall penetrations, leaks around windows and doors, locating hidden dampness under resilient flooring, and many other susceptible areas throughout your home.

Moisture on most building materials can easily destroy the structural integrity of a building and nurture Mold within days. The first step in any moisture problem remediation is to quickly and accurately locate and remove all sources of moisture in order to prevent wood rot and Mold. I'll be able to instantly detect the ultimate source and exact location of any moisture entry area with little or no physical dis-assembly of the premises and minimal disturbance of anyone living in the home. This prevents building owners from ripping out entire walls and ceilings in order to pinpoint a problem area or to repair a leak somewhere inside the surface.

THIS IS WHAT YOU SEE I SEE A WET CEILING AND WALL

The moist areas of building materials cool when energy is transferred during the water evaporation process; therefore (during a thermal scan), a wet "cooler" area will stand out from the surrounding dry "warmer" surfaces. If I do locate moist areas in your home, I will be taking both digital and thermal pictures of these areas of concern in order to include these findings into your infrared report. Specified sections of wall or ceiling coverings can then be removed in order to perform the repairs that caused the moisture build-up. I will be alleviating the need to remove large sections due to pinpointing the exact location of the moisture build-up. Once the coverings are removed and the source of the leak has been properly repaired and all wet materials have been removed from the building, corrective measures must be taken for drying out the area before any materials can be re-applied. I am able to monitor the drying process for you, and confirm when your building's damaged area is completely dry (Mold-free) and ready for re-construction. Then your building contractors will be able start installing your finished areas to your specifications.

My infrared camera does not detect the actual Molds behind your walls and ceilings, but will detect the issues associated with Mold build-up. When basement walls are covered by finish materials, thermal imaging can give you a definitive answer as to whether or not there are moisture issues behind these materials. An infrared camera is basically an on-board computer and a display screen that will show me the thermal images and temperatures that quickly identify the moist, cold or warm areas where molds are likely to be growing. Once I successfully locate an affected area, an invasive inspection at that exact location is then recommended. Required corrective actions are now able to be taken immediately, in order to alleviate extensive damage and any Mold accumulation.

You can also hire me for Moisture contamination evaluations after a severe flood, broken water lines, and equipment failure or even before acquiring real estate suspected of having hidden moisture damage. (Hint: Don't believe the story about the house that has musty odors because it has been vacant and closed up for a while. Musty odors are caused by moisture.)

INFRARED (THERMAL) IMAGING - APPLICATIONS

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Sat, 23 Feb 2008 16:16:58 -0600

There are a host of applications for infrared cameras and there are many issues (throughout the average building) that can be easily detected through infrared imaging.

I'd like to post the many applications (one post at a time) that infrared imaging can be utilized in and then answer any questions you may have regarding these thermal imaging applications.

The first and most widely used application is... Energy Efficiency Inspections.

I know everyone works very hard for their money in order to pay the bills, but what you don't realize is how much of your hard earned energy dollars are actually slipping right through the cracks of your home. Keeping your home at a comfort level (by conditioning it) can be very costly. Wouldn't you like to reduce your energy bills in our freezing winter months and then again, in the summer cooling months? I'm sure your answer is "Yes". Well, a good place to start would be a professional infrared home-energy efficiency inspection. My infrared inspection can tell you where you are wasting your hard earned energy dollars, and then show you exactly where your costly energy dollars are being wasted.

There are many building envelope anomalies that can generate significant heat and air conditioning loss, which causes your energy dollars to be wasted in a not-so-tight home.

Sources of Air Leakage in a Typical Home

During a Re-hab, infrared imaging detects missing insulation above ceiling

My infrared camera allows me to perform a comprehensive energy efficiency inspection within your home and locating and pin-pointing those areas where unconditioned air is infiltrating your home. Most air infiltration areas are located at wall penetrations (such as windows, doors, vents, etc), and at transition areas of fully insulated walls, ceilings and floors. My thermal scan will identify the smallest of insulation breaches and fissures within the concealed cavities of your walls and ceilings. I will literally show you where you are wasting your precious energy resources and your hard earned dollars. My IR camera enables me to point out exactly where your costly energy dollars are being lost. I will then assist you in determining how to properly insulate those breached areas with minimum damage to your surfaces, so you can get the most out of your heating and cooling systems for many years to come.

1) Use my infrared services while I'm performing your Standard home inspection. This valuable option is not included in my standard home inspection fee.

3) If you own an older home that is costing you too much in energy dollars due to excessive air drafts, I can pinpoint those problem areas where cold air is infiltrating your living space. Then, it's best if you contact a building contractor to upgrade those specific areas that I will be clearly identifying throughout your home. All efficiency information and pictures will be transferred onto a professional thermal report for your convenience.

6) Infrared Thermography provides you with a unique opportunity to assess the energy efficiency of your HVAC (heating, ventilating, and air conditioning) systems, including the tightness of the ductwork that is located behind your walls and ceilings. In order to prevent deadly carbon monoxide poisoning, this inspection will also test for leaks throughout the vent pipes.

As you can see, having an infrared energy efficiency inspection makes it much easier to positively pinpoint problems throughout your home, instead of simply making an educated guess without the camera. This IR inspection also allows me to communicate my findings with greater understanding to you (the homeowner) instead of just "speaking another language." As one client had put it very clearly, "This inspection lets my eyes make sense of what my ears are hearing." Now that makes perfect sense, Right?

The dark blue areas indicate that there is "No Insulation" in this area

Looks great visually, until I detect insulation defects with thermal imaging

INFRARED (THERMAL) IMAGING - Becoming a norm in home inspections

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Sun, 20 Jan 2008 13:16:35 -0600

Even though the real estate market has slowed down quite a bit (compared to three years ago), Home Inspectors are getting more requests for infrared imaging than ever before. There are many home owners that are not familiar with IR inspections and I'd like to explain what infrared imaging is.

Now, there is so much information regarding this spectacular technology that I'm going to break this down into sections in order for you to fully understand infrared technology, and its uses and applications. Thermal imaging (IR) is highly advanced technology that was originally developed by our high tech military for use in enhancing night vision in advanced weapons systems during the Korean War. It was used extensively by our ground forces for general theatre scanning, target acquisition and sighting enemy objects in the midst of darkness. This truly amazing camera technology is so astonishing, that it is slowly migrating into the residential and commercial inspection field. Thermal Imaging is quite possibly, the most important technology to be utilized in the Residential and Commercial inspection profession today.

In the hands of Certified, Trained and Experienced Thermographers (such as myself), an infrared camera allows me to detect hidden issues behind finished surfaces of any building by evaluating the camera's images and temperature readings. Thermography is basically the use of an infrared imaging and measurement camera that can actually "see" and "measure" thermal energy emitted from an object. The camera can only sense the temperature difference that transfers to the most outer surface of a wall, ceiling or floor (and if the Delta T, or temperature difference, cannot conduct this difference to the outer most surface then I am unable to see it clearly with an infrared camera). So it's crucial to have a temperature difference of at least ten degrees Fahrenheit between inside and outside temperatures. Most materials that are moist or located inside inaccessible surfaces will have an absolute temperature difference in a seasonal situation due to conditioning the living areas with heat in the winter and A/C in the summer. In New England's ever-changing weather, the inside and outside temperatures will contain sufficient differential most of the time. If the A/C or heat is not conditioning the home, and the outside temperature is the same as the inside temperature, then the infrared camera can not perform its intended function. Temperature differential is absolutely necessary for me to better interpret the camera images and its indicators.

Now that you understand what Thermography is, I'm going to be more explicit as to "How this technology actually works". Thermal, or infrared energy, is light that is not visible because its wavelength is too long to be detected by the human eye; it's the part of the electromagnetic spectrum that we perceive as heat. Unlike visible light (in the infrared world) everything with a temperature above absolute zero will always emit heat. Even very cold objects (such as ice cubes), will emit infrared images. The higher the object's temperature, the greater the infrared (IR) radiation emitted. By detecting those differentiating thermal patterns that are invisible to the naked eye, I'm able to point out concealed issues that need attention now. These findings enable homeowners to perform repairs in a predictive fashion rather than in a reactive manner, which is going to be far more expensive and time consuming when these invisible issues finally become apparent. Everything from faulty wiring whether it is in the wall or exposed, to the presence of concealed Termites, or concealed wet insulation and Mold build-up will affect the surrounding temperature of a surface. Heat-sensitive photography (IR) can reveal these and many other serious issues that cannot be seen by the naked eye or with conventional or digital photography.

My infrared camera enables me to detect extremely small but crucial heat patterns from one area of a structure to another. Even though thermal anomalies are invisible to the eye, temperature variations will clearly show up on my infrared camera's view screen as "cold" or "hot" spots. These spots will contain color variations along with excessive temperature differentials if hidden issues are lurking behind surfaces of your building. The spectrums of light will allow me to analyze what's going on in specific areas throughout your building. As you and I walk through your building, I will be pointing out any areas of concern and then interpreting my camera readings to you. Once my infrared inspection is finalized, my findings will be compiled into a professional report which will contain plenty of pictures and descriptions for easy understanding.

In order for me to complete your formal report in a professional manner, I have specially designed software that allows me to present your infrared findings and your digital photos in a side-by-side photo comparison format. This type of reporting system allows you to view both, the real time digital photo alongside the highlighted thermal photo of the area of concern. There will be no confusion in comprehending my easy-to-understand report. I will be including close-up infrared photos of all issues of concern along with digital wide angle views, so that everyone reading my infrared report will understand the exact location of the issues in question. Directly under these images, you will find my interpretations of what's actually going on behind particular surfaces of your home. SAMPLE IR REPORT

I am an expert who has a solid understanding of heat transfer laws, thermal dynamics and properties of why objects are hot or not or appear to be hot or not. Thermal imaging allows me to identify hidden problem areas much faster and (in most cases) can avoid building owners from using invasive and destructive measures in order to pinpoint problem areas behind finished surfaces. Scanning a building with my infrared camera provides me with crucial information about issues that may be hidden behind walls, ceilings, roof surfaces or any other inaccessible finished areas throughout your building. In providing this optional infrared service, I am now fully able to detect, interpret and document hidden faults and anomalies for immediate corrective action. I can even prioritize specific repairs to certain concealed areas of your building if the issue is serious. Without utilizing my infrared camera, there may be hidden defects that can normally go undetected in the course of my standard visual inspection.

Stay tuned for my next BLOG post, which will include the many applications that infrared imaging is used for and how easy it is to locate serious issues that are totally concealed behind your walls.

Additional information pertaining to infrared(thermal) imaging can be found at ....http:www.massinfrared.com

Taking Care of your House

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Sat, 22 Dec 2007 06:57:10 -0600

The easiest way to take care of your house is to keep unwanted moisture away from the exterior, particularly the foundation, and out of the interior, particularly the attic, closets, and interior ceilings. This typically means little or no watering next to your foundation. This typically translates into no high-water-use plants next to your foundation. (What's a high water-use plant? Typically they are big plants, tropical plants, and plants that have large foliage or lots of flowers.) I recommend regular monitoring and maintenance of the exterior roof, walls, and foundation to include the structural and mechanical components attached to them and all interior walls and floors under any upper stories.

WHAT IS REGULAR MONITORING AND MAINTENANCE?

Home ownership! It's not easy being a homeowner, and there will be many things that become problems while you own your home in which you will need to spend money to resolve. I recommend proactive preventive maintenance rather that after-the-fact reactive repair. To that end, throughout your inspection report you may read certain recommendations of homeowner monitoring and maintenance. This means that things will fall apart or become problematic if you don't take care of them periodically. Some items will need to be monitored and maintained Daily - (plumbing fixtures, basement, etc.), Monthly - (GFCI outlets, etc.) or Annually - (roof, water heater, fireplace, gas-using appliances, etc.). You're investing a substantial amount of money in your home. Please take care of it or hire professional service contractors to continually take care of it for you.

GRADING AND DRAINAGE

Grading and drainage are probably the most significant aspects of a property, simply because of the direct and indirect damage that moisture can have on structures. More damage has probably resulted from moisture and expansive soils than from most natural disasters, and for this reason I am particularly diligent when I evaluate property conditions. In fact, I compare all properties to an ideal. In short, the ideal property will have soils that slope away from the house (not towards or leveled out) and the interior floors will be at least several inches higher than the exterior grading. Also, the house will have gutters and downspouts that discharge into area drains with catch basins that carry water away to hard surfaces.

If there are no gutters in place, rainwater heads right for the weeping tile around the basement and can overload your foundation drainage system causing a flooded basement. The land around many homes settles over time, and then slopes in toward the foundation. If your foundation grading slopes inward, you'll want to fill in and grade the lot so you have at least 6 feet out from around the entire foundation. Ultimatey, you'll want all foundation grading always sloping away from your house.

If a property does not meet this ideal condition, or if any portion of the interior floor is below grade, I will not endorse it, even though there may be no evidence of moisture intrusion.

I have discovered evidence of moisture intrusion inside homes (when it was raining) that would not have been apparent otherwise. I recommend that you consult with a grading and drainage contractor. Please go to"Maintaining Your Foundation", where I have explained (in more detail) about perfect exterior conditions.

Purchasing a home with Aluminum branch wiring

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Fri, 02 Nov 2007 11:47:31 -0500

This picture is a perfect example of the problems that are associated with Aluminum wiring. Note letters A and B (the insulation jackets are melted), which I will explain "Why" in the third paragraph and C (mixing copper wiring with aluminum wiring on the same breaker). Aluminum wiring can not be mixed with copper wiring and breakers can not be double tapped with two wires, unless designated by manufacturer and the breaker connnection will contain a special clip for double tapping. Aluminum wiring is very easy to identify due to it's obvious aluminum color. Aluminum wiring is not to be confused with tin coated copper which looks similar to aluminum wiring but aluminum wiring has distinguishing characteristics and is a solid conductor.

During the 1970's, aluminum (instead of copper) wiring became quite popular and was extensively used throughout the United States. Since that time, aluminum wiring has been implicated in a number of house fires, which caused jurisdictions to no longer permit aluminum wiring in new installations. I highly recommend that you do not use aluminum wiring for any type of new installation. But don't panic if your house does contain aluminum wiring. Aluminum wiring, when properly installed, can be just as safe as copper wiring. Aluminum wiring is, however, very unforgiving of improper installations. I will cover a bit of the theory behind potential electrical problems, and what you can do to make your wiring (in your home) safe.

The main problem that exists with aluminum wiring is a phenomenon known as "cold creep". When aluminum wiring warms up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Unlike copper, when aluminum goes through a number of warm/cool cycles it loses a bit of it's tightness over time. To make the problem worse, aluminum oxidizes (or corrodes) when in contact with certain types of metal, so the resistance of the connection will go up. Which causes the aluminum wiring to heat up and corrode/oxidize even more. Eventually the wire may start to become very hot and melt the insulation jacket (shown in the picture above) or the fixture that it's attached to, and possibly even cause a fire.

Since people usually encounter aluminum wiring when they move into a house that was built in the 70's, I will cover the basic points of safe aluminum wiring. I suggest that, if you're considering purchasing a home with aluminum wiring or have discovered aluminum wiring after moving in, that you hire a licensed electrician to inspect the wiring for the following:

1) Fixtures (eg: outlets and switches) directly attached to aluminum wiring should be rated for it. The device will be stamped with "Al/Cu" or "CO/ALR". The latter supersedes the former, but both are completely safe. These fixtures are somewhat more expensive than the ordinary fixtures.

2) Wires should be properly connected (at least 3/4 way around the screw in a clockwise direction). All connections should be tight. While repeated tightening of the screws can make the problem worse, during the inspection it would pay off to snug up each connection.

{Note that stranded aluminum wiring is still often used for the main service entrance cable at your main panel. It should also be inspected.}

3) The "push-in" terminals are an extreme hazard with an aluminum wires. Any connections using the push-in terminals should be upgraded with the proper screw connections immediately.

4) There should be no signs of overheating: darkened connections, melted insulation, or "baked" fixtures. Any such damage should be repaired by a licensed Electrician and the connection should be upgraded.

5) Connections between aluminum and copper wire need to be handled specially. Current codes require that the connectors used must be specially marked for connecting aluminum to copper. The NEC requires that the wire be connected together using special crimp devices, with an anti-oxidant grease. The tools and materials for the latter are quite expensive - not practical to do it yourself unless you can rent the tool.

{Note that regulations are changing rapidly in this area. Suggest that you discuss any work with an Electrical inspector if you're going to do more than one or two connections.}

6) Any non-rated receptacles can be connected to aluminum wiring by means of a short copper "pigtail". See #5 above.

7) Shows reasonable workmanship: neat wiring, properly stripped (not nicked) wire etc.

If, when considering purchasing a home, my inspection of the exposed wiring (in your prospective home) shows no problems, you can consider the wiring safe. If there are signs of electrical problems in many places (which will be noted on your home inspection report), I suggest you consider a complete electrical inspection and possibly upgrading all branch wiring throughout the house. If the wrong receptacles are used, you can replace them with the proper type, or have the Electrician use pigtails. Having this professionally done by a licensed Electrician can run close to $10.00 per receptacle/switch plus hourly labor.

UPGRADING ALUMINUM WIRING

Maintaining Your Home on a Seasonal Basis

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Wed, 10 Oct 2007 05:46:57 -0500

Your home is one of the single biggest investments you'll ever make, so be sure you that you do all you can to care for it properly. A well-maintained home usually sells more readily and usually brings a higher price. It's also more comfortable and regular care minimizes any unexpected repair work and expenses. Regularly scheduled small repairs and upgrades to your home can and will keep costs from becoming exorbitant.

This comprehensive maintenance schedule I'm presenting to you pertains to home owners in New England and is simply a general guide for you to follow. The actual timing is left up to you to decide, and you may want to further divide the list of items (for each season) into months, depending on your region.

Now, let's get to work.

FALL IS NOW HERE....

And another freezing winter is right around the corner. So before any of that cold weather arrives here in New England, here's your annual checklist of items that should be performed in order to get your home ready for the change of season.

Have all your heating and cooling systems checked by a qualified service person once a year or according to the manufacturer's warranty and service recommendations. Failure to perform manufacturer-recommended servicing may void warranties.

FURNACE: Examine the forced air furnace fan belt for wear, looseness or noise; clean fan blades of any dirt buildup (after disconnecting the electricity to the motor). Then clean the dust build-up from around the air grills (registers) and try to vacuum the supply ducts behind these grills. Open the furnace humidifier cover (if equipped) and clean the inside parts of the humidifier. Hire a licensed HVAC technician to inspect the thermostat, electrical components and controls, inspect the heat exchanger, check flue, air flow and air fuel mixture, adjust the burner and oil the motor and circulating fan. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose or corroded sections. Have your ducts completely cleaned at least every 5 to 6 years, this keeps your furnace clean and it will increase the life expectancy. Make sure the exposed duct work id free of cracks or leaks and seal seams (where needed) with aluminum tape.

BOILER: Bleed the air from hot water radiators. Older circulating pumps should be lubricated twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained annually. The heat shield (located where the burner enters the heat exchanger) should be checked to ensure that it is not loose or corroded. Burn marks around the heat shield or soot on the top front of the burner area may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A Plumber should be contacted to correct any issues.

OIL FURNACES AND BOILERS: Oil systems should be checked by a qualified technician on an annual basis. Oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air systems may indicate a cracked heat exchanger. A technician should be contacted immediately. The exhaust pipe from the furnace or boiler should be checked for loose connections or corroded sections. The barometric damper on the exhaust pipe should rotate freely and not be left in the open position. The chimney clean out (located at the lower portion of the chimney) should be cleaned out of any debris. The oil tank filter area and it's belly should be inspected for leaks. Soot on the front of the furnace or boiler may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted to correct any issues.

Paint interior rooms while it's still warm enough to leave your windows open. Ditto for shampooing or replacing any carpets.

Remove all window air-conditioning units and store them in a safe area. If they are not removable, cover them with plastic to protect them over the winter and insulate the wall opening to prevent freezing winds from entering the wall cavity.

Check smooth functioning of all windows and lubricate them as required. For single pane widows, remove or slide all screens in the up position and then slide the storm windows into place. Examine all hardware and locks on your windows and doors, and lubricate any moving parts. Each exterior door should have a one-inch deadbolt lock for safety.

All yard care power equipment should be drained of it's fuel in the late fall or early winter and serviced according to manufacturer's instructions.

Cover outdoor furniture or store it inside a shed.

Clean and repair garden equipment after the last use of the season. Remove dirt and rust, then store in a dry area. Upcoming winter will be a good time to file rough spots on hoes and shovels and to apply linseed oil to the handles of all garden tools. Thoroughly rinse pesticide and herbicide sprayers to prevent clogging, and rinse fertilizer spreaders to prevent corrosion.

Ensure that all smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors and fire extinguishers are in good working order. Replace the batteries in appropriate devices as needed, or at least twice each year. Massachusetts regulations require detectors to be installed on every habitable level of your home and within 10 feet of any bedroom.

Check gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.

Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of your house; ensure that your family has good security habits.

Again, Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water. Refill with water or oil if necessary.

Take care of known issues with pipes that may freeze. Heat tape/wire can be used to keep them warm during extremely cold weather or insulate them to improve freezing conditions.

Drain and store all outdoor hoses. Drain the hose bib (exterior faucet), unless your house contains frost proof hose bibs. Do this by opening the valve supplying the outdoor faucet, then turn off this supply from inside your home. This will allow all water to leave the piping. Install freeze-proof faucet covers as needed.

Drain the sprinkler systems (if applicable): Now is the time to be thinking about having your sprinkler and irrigation systems blown out and shut down. You can rent a compressor and do this task yourself or simply contact a irrigation system installer and they will handle this task for you.

Ensure that all doors to the outside shut tightly, and check other doors for ease of use. Renew door weatherstripping if required. If there is a door between your house and the garage, install or check the adjustment of the self-closing device to ensure it closes the door completely, without you having to pull it closed manually.

Disconnect the duct connected to the dryer and vacuum the lint from duct, the areas surrounding your clothes dryer and your dryers' vent hood outside.

Ensure that all windows and skylights close tightly. Remove screens from the inside of casement windows to allow air from the heating system to keep condensation off window glass.

Again, Clean leaves from eaves troughs (gutters) and roofs, and test downspouts to ensure proper drainage from the roof. Ensure that these downspouts carry all rain water away from the foundation area at least 6 feet. Downspout extensions will improve any basement seepage conditions. If you do not like the ugly appearance of the long downspout extensions, underground Dry Well installations will hide all your drainage piping.

Check chimneys for obstructions such as nests. Have your wood burning fireplaces and appliances inspected annually and cleaned/swept and repaired as required to prevent chimney fires and carbon monoxide poisoning.

WINTER

Clean or replace your furnace air filters every other month during the heating season. Periodically check the ventilation area outside (intake and exhaust) to make sure they are not blocked by snow or debris. Then go back inside and vacuum all the heating supply registers, return grills, baseboards or radiators.

Clean the humidifier internal parts (if equipped), two or three times during the winter season. These parts become clogged very easily.

Vacuum radiator grilles at the rear of refrigerators and freezers. Empty and clean the drip tray underneath the refrigerator.

Remove mineral deposits from faucet aerators and shower heads by removing them and soaking the parts in white vinegar and scrubbing them with an old toothbrush.

SPRING

Celebrate spring by cleaning up your garage. Hold a yard sale, or organize a community yard sale with your neighbors. Dispose of old paint thinners, household cleaners and pesticides properly. Contact your city's department of public works to find out when the next scheduled collection of hazardous materials is.

Check and clean or replace your furnace air filter.

Shut down and clean the internal parts of the furnace humidifier (if applicable), and close the furnace humidifier damper, as this will not be needed until next heating season.

Have the central air-conditioning unit checked according to the recommendations of the unit's manufacturer or every two or three years. Replace the filter in the forced-air handler Make sure the arrow (on the filter) is pointed towards the blower compartment. Clean debris and vegetation from the exterior condenser or heat pump.

Check de-humidifier(if applicable) in the basement and clean if necessary. Always make sure the drain hose is draining into a waste pipe of some sort. Collecting water in the equipped bucket only sends moisture back into the basement air. You're basically recycling the moisture back into the air.

Turn "OFF" gas furnace and fireplace pilot lights where possible.

Have your well water tested for quality (if applicable). It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.

If you are on a Septic system, have it fully pumped and inspected by a Septic specialist.

Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms and replace all batteries.

Clean windows, screens and hardware. If your home is equipped with single pane windows, slide the storm windows in the "up" position and slide the screen in the "down" position. Check the windows for cracked or broken glass and broken weighted ropes and replace if necessary. Upgrade any loose or cracked putty around the glass panes. Repair holes or bent frames in the screens. Thermal windows should be checked for evidence of moisture between the panes. This is indicative of an argon gas vapor leak and needs replacement. Clean out any slider door tracks and ensure that the drainage holes are clear. Then apply oil (preferably WD-40 spray) to the tracks.

Fix squeaks in floors and stairs by applying weight to the area (having a partner stand on it) and driving an 8d or 12d galvanized finish nail through the flooring into a floor joist or stringer. This will leave small holes in the floor which need to be filled with wood filler, so it's best if you have access to the floor from underneath. You can insert wedges between the floor boards and joists or toenail through a floor joist or stringer.

Open valve to outside hose connection after all danger of frost has passed.

Examine the foundation walls for cracks, leaks or signs of moisture, and repair as required.

Check to make sure your sump pump works properly by pouring water into the pump silo to raise the float and activate the motor. Ensure discharge pipe is connected and allows water to drain away from the foundation and inspect the hose line for obstructions or visible leaks.

Re-level or repair any exterior steps or decks which moved or were damaged due to winter frost or settling.

Check for damaged or improperly sloped gutters. Clean out all gutters and downspouts. Make sure they are free from leaks and rust and ensure all spikes, straps and clips are tightly fastened. Seal any loose joints and seams. Make sure downspouts are not damaged and carry all roof water at least five feet away from the foundation. Downspout extensions will improve any basement seepage conditions.

Clear all drainage ditches and culverts of debris.

Undertake spring landscape maintenance and, if necessary, fertilize young trees.

SUMMER

Inspect window putty on the outside of glass (single panes) and replace if cracking or falling off.

Lubricate all door hinges and tighten screws as needed. Lubricate squeaky door hinges with lightweight machine oil. Free sticky doors by trimming edges or shimming hinges with thin pieces of cardboard.

Deep clean all carpets and rugs.

Check caulking around all sinks, bathtubs, and showers. Some types of caulking become brittle with age, and therefore useless as a water seal. Replace with a long-lasting resilient caulking material, such as silicone or latex.

Vacuum bathroom fan grille.

Monitor basement humidity and avoid relative humidity levels above 60 per cent. Use a dehumidifier to maintain safe relative humidity. Clean or replace air conditioning filter, and wash or replace ventilation system filters if necessary.

Inspect the crawl space or basement walls after rains for water accumulation or excessive moisture. Look for signs of water damage on the sub floor and joists beneath bathrooms, the kitchen and laundry. Find and fix leaks now or pay the price later.

Check basement pipes for condensation or dripping, and take corrective action, for example, reduce humidity and or fully insulate all accessible cold water pipes.

Examine main support beams, support columns, and floor joists for evidence of bowing or warping.

Probe visible wood structural members such as sills, joists, beams, and columns, with a screwdriver, pocket knife or ice pick, to be sure wood is solid and free from decay and wood boring insects.

Make sure all shut-offs are marked appropriately (heating, plumbing and electrical)

If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, for example, a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap. This prevents sewer gases from entering the living area. You can use cooking oil to replace water, as it will not evaporate like water will.

Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water. Refill with water or oil if necessary.

Check security of all guardrails and handrails throughout house (interior and exterior). Install bracketry or hardware if loose.

Lubricate garage door hardware and ensure that it is operating properly and lubricate the automatic garage door opener motor, chain, etc. and ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is properly adjusted. Make sure all bolts and screws are properly tightened and secured. I highly recommend that every homeowner install an auto-closer on the hinges of the fire rated door between the garage and the house.

Check and replace damaged caulking and weatherstripping around all exterior windows and doors.

Inspect electrical service lines for secure attachment where they enter your house, and make sure there is no water leakage into the house along the electrical conduit. Check the seal at the house penetration area.

Ensure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation wall, so that rain water does not drain towards your basement walls. Soil should slope four to six inches for a distance of six feet out from the foundation walls.

Inspect masonry foundation walls (inside and out) for cracks or weakened, crumbling mortar. Repair if necessary. Also check for signs of termite mud tunnels.

Check exterior wood siding and trim for signs of deterioration such as peeling or cracked paint. Remove any wood/soil contact to prevent rot and wood boring insects. Clean, replace or refinish as needed. If you decide to repaint your house yourself, you can cut this job down to size by painting just one or two walls per year. Typically, the paint on the south and west-facing walls deteriorates faster and requires more frequent re-coating than paint on north or east-facing walls. Check for and seal off any holes in exterior cladding that could be an entry point for small pests such as bats, mice, squirrels and chipmunks.

Clean and seal decks. Ideally, you'll need three consecutive warm, sunny days. On day one, dry out the deck. Apply deck cleaner and scrub the deck on the second day and let it dry 24 hours. On the third day, apply deck sealer.

Repair and paint all fences as necessary.

Remove or trim any plants, shrubs or vines that contact any house siding.

Climb up on your roof or use binoculars, to check its general condition and note any sagging that could indicate structural problems requiring further investigation from inside the attic. Note the condition of roofing material for possible repair or replacement, and examine all roof flashing's such as at the chimney, roof joints, vent stacks, dormers and skylights for any signs of cracking or leakage.

Check the chimney cap and the mortar between all bricks. Tuck point between the bricks if necessary.

If you have access to attic spaces, check underneath the roof for stains that indicate leaks, especially from "flashed" areas. Tar these exterior flashing areas if necessary. Also, check all soffit vents to make sure insulation is pulled away from these areas. The attic area should always be the same temperature as the outside.

Trim back tree branches that scrape against or overhang the roof. Keep branches away from chimney to avoid fire hazard and allow proper draft for safe and efficient chimney operation.

Driveways and sidewalks should be checked for cracks and deterioration. Settling which will result in surface water run off towards the house should be corrected as should uneven sections which pose a safety hazard to pedestrians.

Clean and repair cracks in concrete driveways using epoxy patching material. Repair asphalt driveways using asphalt patching material. Seal asphalt driveways every other year.

Repair any damaged steps that present a safety problem.

And last but not least, In the event of fire, flood or other disaster, it will be important in filing an insurance claim. Photographs or video of your possessions can also be helpful. Store this in a safe place off site...maybe a relatives home.

Automatic Maintenance Reminders

This is a fantastic online interactive home maintenance guide where all registered users (Homeowners) will sign up for free automatic home maintenance reminders. Homeowners can sign up any feature of their home, and will receive email reminders according to their personal profile or when it is time to do the recommended maintenance for each of these unique features of their home.

You will also have the option of receiving Season appropriate email reminders describing specific maintenance steps that you should be taking in order to keep your home in top-notch condition. You simply choose the components of your home that need maintenance and a Seasonal email reminder will be sent to you accordingly.

You can review all of your current month scheduled maintenance. And if you get really excited about maintenance and want to see future maintenance activities, you can select the desired month and it will show you all upcoming tasks.

You can sign up if you...

Purchasing a home with UNGROUNDED OUTLETS

David Valley (Massachusetts Home Inspections) — Sat, 25 Aug 2007 07:55:38 -0500

There are a lot of homes on the market today that still have ungrounded outlets throughout the house. During my home inspections, I recommend that my clients upgrade some of these outlets, depending upon what they plan on utilizing these ungrounded outlets for. Not all ungrounded outlets need to be upgraded, so let's go over (in detail) the options you have in upgrading ungrounded outlets.

Let's start off by distinguishing an ungrounded outlet from a grounded outlet.

The ungrounded outlets are easily distinguishable by their two slot configuration verses the newer grounded type of outlets that have the two slots with a hole (ground socket) centered under the slots. For this particular article, I will refer to these outlets as UNGROUNDED outlets and GROUNDED outlets.

Older wiring never contained a ground wire so any ungrounded outlets in your home were originally wired in this manner and are considered acceptable, but they do have their safety issues. Many ungrounded outlets have been installed in the older homes, but as the years went by the electrical standards have changed and are absolutely required in newer homes. While it is not usually required to upgrade ungrounded outlets in your home today, it is still a good idea because a properly wired home is a much safer home for you and your family.

THIS IS WHERE UNGROUNDED OUTLET PROBLEMS BEGIN...

The problems for owners of older homes start when two wire ungrounded outlets are removed and substituted with the grounded type outlets without the necessary rewiring that will add a ground wire to the newly installed grounded type outlet. People tend to replace 2 wire ungrounded outlets with ungrounded type outlets in order to establish a more convenient outlet for their three prong appliances. Most of today's appliance cords contain a three prong plug and it becomes a nuisance when homeowners (of ungrounded electrical systems) are attempting to locate three socket outlets for the grounded plugs. So they replace the two slotted ungrounded outlet with a grounded type outlet and it now becomes much more convenient for them to utilize these outlets in their home. But...these upgraded outlets are still not grounded without upgrading the entire branch wire that feeds the outlet.

Grounded type outlets are not suppose to be substituted for ungrounded outlets unless a new grounded wire is installed to this outlet. This will require a licensed Electrician to install the new wire from the load center to these grounded type outlets. An exception to this rule is allowed by the National Electrical Code, when the outlet is protected by a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI).

THIS BRINGS US TO... CHEAP FIXES OR UPGRADES.

There are cheap fixes available for those home owners who do not want to rewire their entire house. Perhaps one of the cheapest and simplest ways to address this issue is by utilizing a GFCI (also known as a Ground Fault Circuit interrupter). These can be installed in one of two locations. A GFCI outlet can take the place of a standard ungrounded outlet in any location and it now becomes a much safer outlet. Another option would be a GFCI breaker (at the load center) which takes the place of the regular circuit breaker. The N.E.C. (National Electrical Code) does allow GFCI's to replace two wire ungrounded outlets, but this might not be the greatest idea only because the round grounding socket on a GFCI outlet might give someone the false impression that the outlet has a grounding wire. So it's best to have these particular outlets clearly marked as "NO EQUIPMENT GROUND".

A GFCI replacement at an ungrounded outlet is a good choice for many expensive hard to re-wire cases. Instead of having an Electrician running newer wires to newer outlets, you will rely on the GFCI function to provide the personal protection at a much more convenient outlet. It is not the same as having a grounded outlet, but for most instances it is much safer. A GFCI outlet will trip (shut down) when there is a difference in the amount of current flowing through the neutral side of the electrical wiring. So, if a ground fault did occur, and some of the current starts to travel into the casing (toward you), a functional GFCI will automatically trip and stop all current flow, avoiding an electrical shock.

The one instance where a GFCI upgrade should not be used is where equipment utilizes a surge protector (like your computer's surge protector if you have one). Surge protectors use the ground wire to redirect any surge until it can trip. If a surge protector is plugged into an ungrounded outlet it will not operate as the manufacturer intended. When a large surge or spike does hit, the surge protector needs the ground wire to take the "hit" away from the protected equipment and send it safely to the ground wire which is connected to the load side. If the surge or spike is not sent to a ground wire by the surge protector it will destroy the delicate electronics that you were trying to protect. The surge protector manufacturer's do offer warranties, but...it's only valid if the surge protector is used in a properly grounded outlet.

HOW TO PROPERLY REPLACE AN UNGROUNDED OUTLET WITH A GFCI OUTLET

If you feel confident (in yourself) in replacing your ungrounded outlets, I will explain how you can do this project yourself. But, if electricity and it's components are one of the items that you'd rather not touch or if there are many outlets that need upgrading, I'd highly recommend you hire a licensed Electrician to perform this upgrade for you.

Before starting this project, please make sure the breaker (power) to this ungrounded outlet is shut down. Do not assume that the markings on your service panel are correct. Double-check that the power is shut down by plugging in a small appliance and turning it on. Once the power is off at this circuit, start by removing the screws from the outlet cover. Then remove the two screws at the outlet itself. Now pull the outlet out of the box and unscrew or release the two wires from the outlet. You can throw away this old outlet and the cover. The old two prong outlet cover will not adapt to the new GFCI outlet as it is shaped differently. Now take this opportunity to clean up the receptacle box with your shop vacuum before re-installing the GFCI outlet. Also, tape up any frayed or nicked wires with electrical tape (if the wires are badly deteriorated, you may have to trim them back or replace them with new wire). Now confirm that you have enough room in the box for the new GFCI by gently pushing the wires back in the box and test fitting the new GFCI. If the GFCI won't fit because there are too many wires in the box, you would have to have an Electrician install a new, larger electrical box.

Start the GFCI install by using needle nose pliers to bend the ends of the two existing wires into a u-shape, so they can fit snugly under each outlet screw. Now attach the black wire behind the head of the brass/gold screw and tighten it up, then attach the white wire behind the head of the silver screw and tighten this screw. (Remember, there is no ground wire at this location, so the green grounding screw on the GFCI outlet will be left blank). Now gently fold back the wires into the electrical box while pushing the GFCI outlet inside to sit flush against the box. You can now install the top and bottom screws to the outlet.

You should not have to force this outlet in. If you find yourself forcing the outlet to fit, then gently pull it out again and reorganize the wires and try it again. If you're still forcing wires inside the box, then you need to cut the wires shorter. Forcing an outlet may damage the wires and can pull them away from their outlet connections. Once you have the GFCI properly seated and screwed in, you can now screw the new GFCI outlet cover in place. Now the breaker to this circuit can be placed in the "On" position. You should now have a GFCI protected outlet that is SAFER but not grounded. REMEMBER: This outlet should always be labeled "NO EQUIPMENT GROUND" since the ground connection is left unconnected.

HINT: If you're goal is to protect every ungrounded outlet in the home with a GFCI outlet, it's not necessary to utilize a GFCI outlet in every single location. You can install ungrounded type outlets instead of GFCI outlets ONLY if they are wired through the LOAD side of a GFCI outlet. Still, no ground wire exists, so these outlets should be clearly labeled "GFCI PROTECTED, NO EQUIPMENT GROUND"

HINT: In many older homes the outlet mounting box was grounded from the load center but the outlet itself was not grounded. If this is the case it is possible to use a jumper between the mounting box and the grounding screw on the new grounded type outlet. But this type of ground may not be adequate for a surge protector.