Denny's Blog

Get It Together With These 3 Tips

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 09:02:52 -0600

Get It Together With These 3 Tips
by Terri Cooper
www.realestatemastery.com.au

Tip Number One: Copy Someone Who's Already Getting the Results You Want

As the saying goes: "Success leaves Clues!"The great thing is that to be incredibly successful in real estate, you don't need to re-invent the wheel!

Agents who are consistently making huge commissions right now, have left clues to their success. If you were to study the top real estate performers, you would notice strong consistencies:

These top agents regard themselves as C.E.O.s of their own company. They might work under a franchise banner but they take full responsibility for what happens each day in their business.

They think in terms of solutions rather than problems; of opportunities rather than obstacles. Their motto could be: "If it's to be, it's up to me".

They take credit for their successes and learn from their mistakes. They look on everything as feedback and use this feedback as fuel to propel them forward.

Look for a coach, look for a mentor, look around you in your own office, your suburb and even further afield. You will find that if you are serious and committed, the top agents will always have time to show you the ropes, the clues to their own success.

Tip Number Two: Get a Plan

Take time-out to work "ON" not "IN" your business. Use a friend, a coach, use anyone you know who can help you to clearly articulate your goals. Work out what you would like to earn, how long you want it to take, and the steps you need to take to make this happen. This more than anything will move you forward and will give you the motivation you need to take the necessary action steps to be hugely successful.

Real estate is a numbers game. If you do the right things often enough and consistently enough, you will succeed, it is as simple as that. But you will not succeed if you have no plan. The most exciting thing happens when the goals are your own -- the most important person they benefit is YOU. Your Principal is there to help you and share knowledge, but in the end, it is you and you alone who are responsible for setting your targets and planning your future.

Have a business plan which shows you exactly how much you want to earn this year and exactly how you need to go about it. How many appraisals, how many listing appointments, how many sales etc.? The actual targets are not half as frightening as you think they might be - the most frightening thing is the unknown. This process will clarify your thinking, and keep you on track when things don't go according to plan. As I said earlier, real estate is a numbers game. As long as you focus only on the numbers you will move forward.

Tip Number Three: Get Over It

The last lesson in this mini-series is such an important one for me to share with you. When I first entered the world of real estate sales, this was one of the most important pieces of advice that I received. Everyone is only human - when things don't work out, yes you may get angry, you may feel disappointed and let-down, but the important thing is to give yourself only a limited time to wallow.

You must let it go and move on, otherwise this industry will kill your joy and turn you into a walking bundle of stress (which will not endear you to your clients I can tell you!)

So, to recap: You will be guaranteed of making more sales when you: Consistently model the attitudes and habits of top performers, Get a clear plan, a clear direction with action steps to achieve your goals, and then Continually practice the attitude of being in the moment, learning from the past, but letting go of the disappointments and creating the future as you want it to be!

Pre-listing/Seller Inspections, What Say You?

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 13 Jan 2009 11:24:09 -0600

I'm seeking some response to everyone's feelings on Pre-listing or seller inspections. In this troubled market I think every advantage should be taken for individuals to sell their house. I have performed these types of inspections and have met with some success for the seller. Percentage wise, I have about a 60/40 split on it's success (60% selling). On the homes that did sell, of which the seller did correct issues with the house for better showing, the seller did think the inspection and report was worthwhile and did help with the marketing of the house. On those that did not sell, the sellers did not correct issues, and didn't use the report as a marketing tool.

What is everybody's opinion on the concept of Pre-listing/Seller inspections? The advantages to the buyer are:

The inspection is done already.
The inspection is paid for by the seller.
The report provides a more accurate, third-party view of the condition of the home prior to making an offer.
A seller inspection eliminates surprise defects.
Problems are corrected or at least acknowledged prior to making an offer on the home.
A seller inspection reduces the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
The report might assist in acquiring financing.
A seller inspection allows the buyer to sweeten the offer without increasing the offering price by waiving inspections.

The advantages to the seller and Realtor:

The seller can choose an inspector of their choice Home Check America for one, rather than be at the mercy of the buyer's choice of inspector.
The seller can schedule the inspections at the seller's convenience.
It might alert the seller of any items of immediate personal concern, such as radon gas or active termite infestation.
The seller can assist the inspector during the inspection, something normally not done during a buyer's inspection.
The seller can have the inspector correct any misstatements in the inspection report before it is generated.
The report can help the seller realistically price the home if problems exist.
The report can help the seller substantiate a higher asking price if problems don't exist or have been corrected.
A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which:
- might make the home show better.
- gives the seller time to make repairs and shop for competitive contractors.
- permits the seller to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report.
- removes over-inflated buyer procured estimates from the negotiation table.
The report might alert the seller to any immediate safety issues found, before agents and visitors tour the home.
The report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to potential buyers.
A seller inspection permits a clean home inspection report to be used as a marketing tool.
A seller inspection is the ultimate gesture in forthrightness on the part of the seller.
The report might relieve a prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
A seller inspection lightens negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
The report might encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
The deal is less likely to fall apart the way they often do when a buyer's inspection unexpectedly reveals a problem, last minute.
The report provides full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

Let's discuss and see where this idea goes shall we?

A Simple Key to Success

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 13 Jan 2009 11:05:24 -0600

Recently I sat down with a very successful business person, at my request, to talk about how to become even more successful in business. While I am acquainted with and admire many successful business people in my area, I really wanted to discuss the dynamics of being successful from this one successful person who started from scratch. Not an individual who worked themselves up the ladder of good organizations.

As we talked and enjoyed our lunch, I asked what was his one true key to success, if there is only one? His reply was short, simple, and made great sense. His reply - "Under promise and over produce"! Whether that promise involves putting in long hours, learning a new skill, gaining knowledge about client needs, or various other concepts/ideas. Make your customer #1 so he doesn't go anywhere else for that type of business. Of course, he expanded upon this concept with dealings he had starting out and continuing to this day.

Makes sense doesn't it: under promise -over produce! We have met many through our dealings who over promised and under produced when we needed or wanted their product or service. Think back on those experiences and remember how it made us feel. Not like we were their number one priority did it? What would we have done different? How would we have made the situation right? How could we under promise and over produce?

How do we under promise and over produce? Here are just a few examples, but don't stop there:

Do not create a deadline for your efforts that you know is unreasonable and unattainable.
Know your strengths and weaknesses. Improve upon both!
Don't be afraid to ask for assistance from others around you.
Learn a skill or gain knowledge that can enhance your services to your clients.
Set attainable goals for you, your client and the transaction.
Deliver on your promise way before it is due!
Give outstanding service.

These are some tough times we are going through. Standing out from the rest is what will make us successful and be the individual people run to for your services; not the person they run from.

A Simple Key to Success

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 13 Jan 2009 10:59:44 -0600

How do we under promise and over produce? Here are just a few examples, but don't stop there:

Do not create a deadline for your efforts that you know is unreasonable and unattainable.
Know your strengths and weaknesses. Improve upon both!
Don't be afraid to ask for assistance from others around you.
Learn a skill or gain knowledge that can enhance your services to your clients.
Set attainable goals for you, your client and the transaction.
Deliver on your promise way before it is due!
Give outstanding service.

These are some tough times we are going through. Standing out from the rest is what will make us successful and be the individual people run to for your services; not the person they run from.

Making the Grade. The importance of proper grading around the home

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Sat, 19 Apr 2008 10:56:06 -0500

MAKING THE GRADE

Proper grading and draining around a home is one of those things that few people see when shopping for a home, and yet it can have one of the most significant impacts on a homes condition and the health of its occupants. As a professional home inspector since 1994, I would say improper grading is one of the more common defects I find.

Improper Slope

When the grading of a lot slopes toward the home, it is called negative slope (or improper slope). In times of heavy rain or thaw, negative slopes can allow flooding to occur. Even during moderate conditions, water that runs toward the home saturates the ground around the foundation, which over time will damage the foundation with freezing and the natural corrosive properties of water. Saturation around the home also encourages seepage into basements, crawlspaces and even under slab foundation homes. Seepage can rot wood framing and develop harmful mold problems, and cause excessive floor sweating in slab foundation homes, causing the inside flooring to rot, mold & deteriorate. Water that freezes is extremely powerful and can lift a whole house, causing significant damage.

It would be a mistake to assume that just piling more dirt around the house would solve the problem. Some houses do not have room below the siding to create a positive slope away from the home by adding more dirt. Covering up the siding with earth or landscaping materials could cause more damage could occur with ground moisture rotting the framing of the house. Or in the case of brick, water seeps into the porous brick then freezes, deteriorating the brick. Having the ground too close to, or in contact with the siding promotes wood destroying insect infestations as well. So, just applying more dirt around the home is not always the best remedy.

Proper grade

The grade away from the home should not be less than 1 inch per foot of the grade for a distance of about 6- 10 feet. If this condition is not possible with the level of the house siding, more serious re-grading and lot swale improvement will need to occur. Sometimes I have inspected homes that were originally built too low on the lot, with elevations that put the house at the bottom of a bowl. Solving these kinds of elevation problems can be expensive and usually involve a landscape engineer.

Routing downspouts

Drain water from gutters far away from the house, making sure the water doesn't run back. It may be necessary to install dry wells or subsurface drains to carry water out to the street or city storm sewer systems. Check annually to ensure the subsurface drains are clear and working properly.

Keep debris away

Debris and grass clippings can retain water and promote seepage and insect infestations.

Sump Pumps

Sump pumps are designed to drain naturally occurring ground water away from the foundation's footer, not necessarily to handle the excessive amount of water run off a normal size roof can shed. If water is permitted to run up against the foundation, the sump pump could be over utilized. If the sump pump fails, the basement or crawlspace could flood pretty quickly. Reliance on your sump pump to effectively discharge the water from a 1/4 acre lot, is well, a little like playing Russian roulette.

Child Safety

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Fri, 11 Jan 2008 16:13:02 -0600

Childproofing Your Home - 12 Safety Devices to Protect Your Children About 2-1/2 million children are injured or killed by hazards in the home each year. The good news is that many of these incidents can be prevented by using simple child safety devices on the market today.

Any safety device you buy should be sturdy enough to prevent injury to your child, yet easy for you to use. It's important to follow installation instructions carefully. In addition, if you have older children in the house, be sure they re-secure safety devices. Remember, too, that no device is completely childproof; determined youngsters have been known to disable them.

You can childproof your home for a fraction of what it would cost to have a professional do it. And safety devices are easy to find. You can buy them at hardware stores, baby equipment shops, supermarkets, drug stores, home and linen stores, and through mail order catalogues.

Here are some child safety devices that can help prevent many injuries to young children.

1 Use Safety Latches and Locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas to help prevent poisonings and other injuries. Safety latches and locks on cabinets and drawers can help prevent children from gaining access to medicines and household cleaners, as well as knives and other sharp objects.

Look for safety latches and locks that adults can easily install and use, but are sturdy enough to withstand pulls and tugs from children. Safety latches are not a guarantee of protection, but they can make it more difficult for children to reach dangerous substances. Even products with child-resistant packaging should be locked away, out of reach; this packaging is not childproof.

Typical cost of a safety latch or lock: less than $2.

2 Use Safety Gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas. Safety gates can help keep children away from stairs or rooms that have hazards in them. Look for safety gates that children cannot dislodge easily, but that adults can open and close without difficulty. For the top of stairs, gates that screw to the wall are more secure than "pressure gates."

New safety gates that meet safety standards display a certification seal from the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA). If you have an older safety gate, be sure it doesn't have "V" shapes that are large enough for a child's head and neck to fit into.

Typical cost of a safety gate: $13 to $40.

3 Use Door Knob Covers and Door Locks to help prevent children from entering rooms and other areas with possible dangers. Door knob covers and door locks can help keep children away from places with hazards, including swimming pools.

Be sure the door knob cover is sturdy enough not to break, but allows a door to be opened quickly by an adult in case of emergency. By restricting access to potentially hazardous rooms in the home, door knob covers could help prevent many kinds of injuries. To prevent access to swimming pools, door locks should be placed high out of reach of young children. Locks should be used in addition to fences and door alarms. Sliding glass doors, with locks that must be re-secured after each use, are often not an effective barrier to pools.

Typical cost of a door knob cover: $1 and door lock: $5 and up.

4 Use Anti-Scald Devices for faucets and shower heads and set your water heater temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help prevent burns from hot water. Anti-scald devices for regulating water temperature can help prevent burns.

Consider using anti-scald devices for faucets and showerheads. A plumber may need to install these. In addition, if you live in your own home, set water heater temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help prevent burns from hot water.

Typical cost of an anti-scald device: $6 to $30.

5 Use Smoke Detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries.

Check smoke detectors once a month to make sure they're working. If detectors are battery-operated, change batteries at least once a year or consider using 10-year batteries. Typical cost of a smoke detector: less than $10. 6 Use Window Guards and Safety Netting to help prevent falls from windows, balconies, decks, and landings. Window guards and safety netting for balconies and decks can help prevent serious falls.

Check these safety devices frequently to make sure they are secure and properly installed and maintained. There should be no more than four inches between the bars of the window guard. If you have window guards, be sure at least one window in each room can be easily used for escape in a fire. Window screens are not effective for preventing children from falling out of windows.

Typical cost of a window guard or safety netting: $8 to $16.

7 Use Corner and Edge Bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges of furniture and fireplaces. Corner and edge bumpers can be used with furniture and fireplace hearths to help prevent injuries from falls or to soften falls against sharp or rough edges.

Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture or hearth edges.

Typical cost of a corner and edge bumper: $1 and up.

8 Use Outlet Covers and Outlet Plates to help prevent electrocution. Outlet covers and outlet plates can help protect children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.

Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.

Typical cost of an outlet cover: less than $2.

9 Use a Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detector outside bedrooms to help prevent CO poisoning. A carbon monoxide (CO) detector can help prevent CO poisoning. Consumers should install CO detectors near sleeping areas in their homes. Households that should use CO detectors include those with gas or oil heat or with attached garages.

Typical cost of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector: $30 to $70.

10 Cut Window Blind Cords; use Safety Tassels and Inner Cord Stops to help prevent children from strangling in blind cord loops. Window blind cord safety tassels on miniblinds and tension devices on vertical blinds and drapery cords can help prevent deaths and injuries from strangulation in the loops of cords. Inner cord stops can help prevent strangulation in the inner cords of window blinds.

For older miniblinds, cut the cord loop, remove the buckle, and put safety tassels on each cord. Be sure that older vertical blinds and drapery cords have tension or tie-down devices to hold the cords tight. When buying new miniblinds, verticals, and draperies, ask for safety features to prevent child strangulation.

11 Use Door Stops and Door Holders to help prevent injuries to fingers and hands. Door stops and door holders on doors and door hinges can help prevent small fingers and hands from being pinched or crushed in doors and door hinges.

Be sure any safety device for doors is easy to use and is not likely to break into small parts, which could be a choking hazard for young children.

Typical cost of a door stop and door holder: less than $4.

12 Use a Cordless Phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they're in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas.

Cordless phones help you watch your child continuously, without leaving the vicinity to answer a phone call. Cordless phones are especially helpful when children are in or near water, whether it's the bathtub, the swimming pool, or the beach.

Typical cost of a cordless phone: $30 and up.

Ten Tips to Speed Up Your Home Inspection

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Fri, 11 Jan 2008 16:07:27 -0600

Sellers can speed their home inspection by following these suggestions. The inspection will go smoother, with fewer concerns to delay closing.

Confirm that water, electric and gas service are on, with gas pilot lights burning.
Ensure pets won't hinder the inspection. Ideally, they should be removed from premises or secured outside. Tell your agent about any pets at home.
Replace burned out bulbs to avoid a "Light is inoperable" report that may suggest an electrical problem.
Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and replace dead batteries.
Clean or replace dirty HVAC air filters. They should fit securely.
Remove stored items, debris and wood from foundation. These may be cited as "conducive conditions" for termites.
Remove items blocking access to HVAC equipment, electric service panels, water heaters, attics and crawl spaces.
Unlock areas the inspector must access - attic doors or hatches, electric service panels, closets, fence gates and crawl spaces.
Trim tree limbs to 10' from the roof and shrubs from the house to allow access.
Attend to broken or missing items like doorknobs, locks and latches; windowpanes, screens and locks; gutters, downspouts and chimney caps.

Checking these areas before your home inspection is an investment in selling your property. Your real estate agent will thank you!

Winter Maintenance Items

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Mon, 24 Dec 2007 13:37:21 -0600

Recharge fire extinguishers
Wax and buff wood floors
Professionally clean curtains and drapes
Inspect and touch up interior paint
Inspect exposed plumbing areas for dampness (twice per year)
Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)
Test for carbon monoxide

Autumn home maintenance items

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 11:03:06 -0500

Perform these projects to maintain your home and possibly lengthen the life span of your home systems. Replace smoke and fire alarm batteries (at least twice per year) Inspect and clean fireplace and chimney Service furnace or other heating system Clean and adjust humidifier on furnace Clean/vacuum heating ducts, grills, and registers Clean upper-story windows (twice per year) Inspect window screens and insulation, and install storm windows Inspect weather-stripping around doors and replace as needed. Cut back any trees or shrubs touching the roof or exterior (twice per year) Clean gutters and inspect downspouts (twice per year) Trim, cover, or bring in outdoor plants as needed Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)

The ABCs of Home Ownership (A Glossary)

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Sat, 11 Aug 2007 13:53:38 -0500

Here are some common terms relevant to home ownership. For a complete list, visit http://www.nachi.org/ and click on Glossary.

A/C: An abbreviation for Air Conditioner, Air Conditioning, or Alternating Current.

Access Panel: An opening in the wall or ceiling near the fixture that allows access for servicing the plumbing/electrical system.

Approach: The area between the sidewalk and the street that leads to a driveway or the transition from the street as you approach a driveway.

Awning Window: A window with hinges at the top allowing it to open out and up.

Backsplash: A raised integral portion of a wall mount sink or lavatory located at the rear to protect the wall.

Baseboard: Usually wood or vinyl installed around the perimeter of a room to cover the space where the wall and floor meet. A board placed against the wall around a room next to the floor to properly finish between the floor and the plaster.

Bearing Wall: A wall that supports any vertical load in addition to its own weight.

Breeze Way: A roofed, open-sided passageway connecting two structures, such as a house and a garage.

Casement Window: A sidehinged window that opens on hinges secured to the side of the window frame.

Casing: Molding of various widths and thicknesses used to trim door and window openings at the jambs.

Ceiling Joist: One of a series of parallel framing members used to support ceiling loads and supported in turn by larger beams, girders or bearing walls. Also called roof joists.

Chair Rail: A molding that runs horizontally along the wall at about 3 feet from the ground. In storefront, window wall, or curtain wall systems, a chair rail is an aluminum extrusion applied horizontally to the inside of the system 3 feet from the floor to create a barrier in floor-to-ceiling glazing applications.

Circuit: A network of wiring that typically commences and returns at a panel box, and feeds electricity to outlets.

Composite Board: An insulation board which has two different insulation types laminated together in 2 or 3 layers.

Compression Valve: A type of valve that works by raising or lowering a stem. Water passes through the valve by turning the faucet handle, which causes the stem to drop or rise.

Condensing Unit: The outdoor component of a cooling system. It includes a compressor and condensing coil designed to give off heat.

Crawl Space: A shallow open area between the floor of a building and the ground, normally enclosed by the foundation wall.

Crown Molding: A molding used on cornice or wherever an interior angle is to be covered.

Culvert: Round, corrugated drain pipe (normally 15" or 18" in diameter) that is installed beneath a driveway parallel to and near the street.

Deck: An elevated platform. "Deck" is also commonly used to refer to the above-ground floors in multi-level parking garage.

Dormer: A converted attic with windows projecting through a sloping roof.

Double Hung Window: A window with sashes that slide vertically and allow opening from the top and bottom.

Drywall: A gypsum board material used for walls or ceilings.

Easement: A formal contract which allows a party to use another party's property for a specific purpose, e.g. a sewer easement might allow one party to run a sewer line through a neighbor's property.

Eave: The part of the roof which extends beyond the side wall.

Egress: A means of exiting the home. An egress window is required in every bedroom and basement. Normally a 4x4 window is the minimum size required.

Energy Efficiency Ratio: An air conditioning efficiency rating system which indicates the number of BTU's delivered per watt of power consumed.

Expansive Soils: Earth that swells and contracts depending on the amount of water that is present.

Facade: The front of a building. Frequently, in architectural terms an artificial or decorative effort.

Fenestration: Any glass panel, window, door, curtain wall or skylight unit on the exterior of a building.

Field Measure: To take measurements (cabinets, countertops, stairs, shower doors, etc.) in the home itself instead of using the blueprints.

Fitting: A general term that usually refers to faucets, shower valves, tub fillers, or various piping parts such as tees or elbows.

Fixture: In plumbing, the devices that provide a supply of water and/or its disposal, e.g. sinks, tubs, toilets.

Floor Plan: The basic layout of building or addition, which includes placement of walls, windows and doors as well as dimensions.

Footing: The underground support for a foundation or support post.

Foundation: The supporting portion of a structure below the first floor construction, or below grade, including the footings.

Summer maintenance around the house

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 19 Jun 2007 22:08:36 -0500

Summer
Inspect exposed plumbing areas for dampness (twice per year)
Fix loose or cracked caulking around tiles, sinks, tubs, showers, toilets, and counters
Inspect appliance hoses and ventilation according to owner's manuals
Power wash, repair, refinish, and seal decks, reset any protruding nails
Clean and lubricate sliding-glass-door tracks and window tracks
Lubricate door hinges and locks
Oil garage door(s)
Patch driveway and other concrete, or treat asphalt
Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)

Life Expectancies of Home Components

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Sun, 03 Jun 2007 21:45:39 -0500

No home is perfect, nor will remain perfect. It is just a fact of life that stuff breaks. Many factors may

affect the useful life of the various systems and components of your home. Obviously, quality (and more

expensive) components will usually last longer and give better service than cheaper ones. The quality of

the installation also has a large affect. Finally, better care and regular maintenance will lengthen the

useful life of any home item. The following is some guidelines based upon average quality and

maintenance.

Roof Systems

Slate 60 to 100 years

Clay Tile 60 to 100 years

Metal 50 to 90 years

Cedar Shake 30 to 50 years

Asphalt Shingles 15 to 30 years

4 Ply built-up roofing (flat) 10 to 20 years

Roll roofing 5 to 10 years

Gutters and Downspouts

Copper 40 to 90 years

Galvanized 20 to 25 years

Aluminum 20 to 25 years

Plastic / Vinyl Varies on quality, 3 to 50 years

Siding

Brick / Masonry 100+ years

Stucco 100+ years

Cement - asbestos 40 to 100 years

Vinyl 25 to 40 years

Aluminum 20 to 40 years

Wood 20 to 40 years

Exterior paint 2 to 5 years

Outside Components

Asphalt driveway 5 to 10 years

Wooden deck 10 to 15 years

Exterior doors 12 to 15 years

Garage door opener 8 to 12 years

Plumbing

Plastic (PVC) pipe unknown

Copper pipe 70+ years

Cast iron pipe 50 to 90 years

Lead pipe 50 to 70 years

Septic system field tiles 25 to 30 years

Water heater 8 to 15 years

HVAC

Furnace - Gas 20 to 25 years

Boiler 20 to 25 years

Cast iron boiler 30+ years

Fans 15 to 30 years

Pumps 10 to 20 years

Appliances

Range 18 to 20 years

Refrigerator 10 to 20 years

Dishwasher 8 to 12 years

Garbage Disposer 8 to 12 years

Trash compactor 8 to 12 years

Clothes Washer 10 to 15 years

Clothes Dryer 12 to 15 years

Child Safety

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Sun, 03 Jun 2007 21:41:07 -0500

Here are some child safety devices that can help prevent many injuries to young children.

Typical cost of a safety latch or lock: less than $2.

Typical cost of a safety gate: $13 to $40.

Typical cost of a door knob cover: $1 and door lock: $5 and up.

Typical cost of an anti-scald device: $6 to $30.

5 Use Smoke Detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries.

Typical cost of a window guard or safety netting: $8 to $16.

Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture or hearth edges.

Typical cost of a corner and edge bumper: $1 and up.

8 Use Outlet Covers and Outlet Plates to help prevent electrocution. Outlet covers and outlet plates can help protect children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.

Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.

Typical cost of an outlet cover: less than $2.

Typical cost of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector: $30 to $70.

Be sure any safety device for doors is easy to use and is not likely to break into small parts, which could be a choking hazard for young children.

Typical cost of a door stop and door holder: less than $4.

12 Use a Cordless Phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they're in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas.

Typical cost of a cordless phone: $30 and up.

Indoor Swimming Pool Safety

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 08 May 2007 11:21:54 -0500

Indoor Pools When a pool is located completely within a house, the walls that surround the pool should be equipped to serve as pool safety barriers. Measures recommended above where a house wall serves as part of a safety barrier also apply for all the walls surrounding an indoor pool. Guidelines An outdoor swimming pool, including an inground, aboveground, or onground pool, hot tub, or spa, should be provided with a barrier which complies with the following:

1. The top of the barrier should be at least 48 inches above grade measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. The maximum vertical clearance between grade and the bottom of the barrier should be 4 inches measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. Where the top of the pool structure is above grade, such as an aboveground pool, the barrier may be at ground level, such as the pool structure, or mounted on top of the pool structure. Where the barrier is mounted on top of the pool structure, the maximum vertical clearance between the top of the pool structure and the bottom of the barrier should be 4 inches.

2. Openings in the barrier should not allow passage of a 4-inch diameter sphere.

3. Solid barriers, which do not have openings, such as a masonry or stone wall, should not contain indentations or protrusions except for normal construction tolerances and tooled masonry joints.

4. Where the barrier is composed of horizontal and vertical members and the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is less than 45 inches, the horizontal members should be located on the swimming pool side of the fence. Spacing between vertical members should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width. Where there are decorative cutouts, spacing within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width.

5. Where the barrier is composed of horizontal and vertical members and the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is 45 inches or more, spacing between vertical members should not exceed 4 inches. Where there are decorative cutouts, spacing within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width.

6. Maximum mesh size for chain link fences should not exceed 1-3/4 inch square unless the fence is provided with slats fastened at the top or the bottom which reduce the openings to no more than 1-3/4 inches. 7. Where the barrier is composed of diagonal members, such as a lattice fence, the maximum opening formed by the diagonal members should be no more than 1-3/4 inches. 8. Access gates to the pool should be equipped to accommodate a locking device. Pedestrian access gates should open outward, away from the pool, and should be self-closing and have a self latching device. Gates other than pedestrian access gates should have a self-latching device. Where the release mechanism of the self-latching device is located less than 54 inches from the bottom of the gate.

The release mechanism should be located on the pool side of the gate at least 3 inches below the top of the gate.
The gate and barrier should have no opening greater than 1/2 inch within 18 inches of the release mechanism.

9. Where a wall of a dwelling serves as part of the barrier, one of the following should apply:

All doors with direct access to the pool through that wall should be equipped with an alarm which produces an audible warning when the door and its screen, if present, are opened. The alarm should sound continuously for a minimum of 30 seconds within 7 seconds after the door is opened. The alarm should have a minimum sound pressure rating of 85 dBA at 10 feet and the sound of the alarm should be distinctive from other household sounds, such as smoke alarms, telephones, and door bells. The alarm should automatically reset under all conditions. The alarm should be equipped with manual means, such as touchpads or switches, to temporarily deactivate the alarm for a single opening of the door from either direction. Such deactivation should last for no more than 15 seconds. The deactivation touch pads or switches should be located at least 54 inches above the threshold of the door.
The pool should be equipped with a power safety cover which complies with ASTM F1346-91 listed below.
Other means of protection, such as self-closing doors with self-latching devices, are acceptable so long as the degree of protection afforded is not less than the protection afforded by the above.

10. Where an aboveground pool structure is used as a barrier or where the barrier is mounted on top of the pool structure, and the means of access is a ladder or steps, then:

The ladder to the pool or steps should be capable of being secured, locked or removed to prevent access.
The ladder or steps should be surrounded by a barrier. When the ladder or steps are secured, locked, or removed, any opening created should not allow the passage of a 4-inch diameter sphere.

These guidelines are intended to provide a means of protection against potential drowning's and narrowing to children under 5 years of age by restricting access to residential swimming pools, spas, and hot tubs. Exemptions A portable spa with a safety cover which complies with ASTM F1346-91 listed below should be exempt from the guidelines presented in this document. Swimming pools, hot tubs, and non portable spas with safety covers should not be exempt from the provisions of this document.

Swimming Pool Safety

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 08 May 2007 11:20:14 -0500

Safety Guidelines for Home Pools

Swimming pools should always be happy places.Unfortunately, each year thousands of American families confront swimming pool tragedies, drowning's and near-drowning's of young children. These tragedies are preventable. These are guidelines for pool barriers that can help prevent most submersion incidents involving young children. This designed for use by owners, purchasers, and builders of residential pools, spas, and hot tubs. These guidelines are not intended as the sole method to minimize pool drowning of young children, just helpful safety tips for safer pools.

Each year, hundreds of young children die and thousands come close to death due to submersion in residential swimming pools. CPSC has estimated that each year about 300 children under 5 years old drown in swimming pools. Hospital emergency room treatment is required for more than 2,000 children under 5 years of age who were submerged in residential pools. CPSC did an extensive study of swimming pool accidents, both fatal drowning's and near-fatal submersions, in California, Arizona and Florida, states in which home swimming pools are very popular and in use during much of the year.

In California, Arizona and Florida, drowning was the leading cause of accidental death in and around the home for children under the age of 5 years.
75 percent of the children involved in swimming pool submersion or drowning accidents were between 1 and 3 years old.
Boys between 1 and 3 years old were the most likely victims of fatal drowning's and near-fatal submersions in residential swimming pools.
Most of the victims were being supervised by one or both parents when the swimming pool accident occurred.
Nearly half of the child victims were last seen in the house before the pool accident occurred. In addition, 23 percent of the accident victims were last seen on the porch or patio, or in the yard.
This means that fully 69 percent of the children who became victims in swimming pool accidents were not expected to be in or at the pool, but were found drowned or submerged in the water.
65 percent of the accidents occurred in a pool owned by the victims immediate family, and 33 percent of the accidents occurred in pools owned by relatives or friends.
Fewer than 2 percent of the pool accidents were a result of children trespassing on property where they didnt live or belong.
77 percent of the swimming pool accident victims had been missing for five minutes or less when they were found in the pool drowned or submerged.

The speed with which swimming pool drowning's and submersions can occur is a special concern: by the time a childs absence is noted, the child may have drowned. Anyone who has cared for a toddler knows how fast young children can move. Toddlers are inquisitive and impulsive and lack a realistic sense of danger. These behaviors, coupled with a childs ability to move quickly and unpredictably make swimming pools particularly hazardous for households with young children.

Swimming pool drowning's of young children have another particularly insidious feature: these are silent deaths. It is unlikely that splashing or screaming will occur to alert a parent or caregiver that a child is in trouble. The best way to reduce child drowning's in residential pools was for pool owners to construct and maintain barriers that would prevent young children from gaining access to pools. However, there are no substitutes for diligent supervision. Why the Swimming Pool Guidelines Were Developed Young child can get over a pool barrier if the barrier is too low or if the barrier has handholds or footholds for a child to use when climbing. The guidelines recommend that the top of a pool barrier be at least 48 inches above grade, measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. Eliminating handholds and footholds and minimizing the size of openings in a barriers construction. For a solid barrier no indentations or protrusions should be present, other than normal construction tolerances and masonry joints. For a barrier (fence) made up of horizontal and vertical members if the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is less than 45 inches, the horizontal members should be on the swimming pool side of the fence. The spacing of the vertical members should not exceed 1-3/4 inches. This size is based on the foot width of a young child and is intended to reduce the potential for a child to gain a foothold. If there are any decorative cutouts in the fence, the space within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches. The definition of pool includes spas and hot tubs. The swimming pool barrier guidelines therefore apply to these structures as well as to conventional swimming pools. How to Prevent a Child from Getting OVER a Pool Barrier A successful pool barrier prevents a child from getting OVER, UNDER, or THROUGH and keeps the child from gaining access to the pool except when supervising adults are present. The Swimming Pool Barrier Guidelines If the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is more than 45 inches, the horizontal members can be on the side of the fence facing away from the pool. The spacing between vertical members should not exceed 4 inches. This size is based on the head breadth and chest depth of a young child and is intended to prevent a child from passing through an opening. Again, if there are any decorative cutouts in the fence, the space within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches.

For a chain link fence the mesh size should not exceed 1-1/4 inches square unless slats, fastened at the top or bottom of the fence, are used to reduce mesh openings to no more than 1-3/4 inches.

For a fence made up of diagonal members (latticework) the maximum opening in the lattice should not exceed 1-3/4 inches.

Aboveground pools should have barriers. The pool structure itself serves as a barrier or a barrier is mounted on top of the pool structure. Then, there are two possible ways to prevent young children from climbing up into an aboveground pool. The steps or ladder can be designed to be secured, locked or removed to prevent access, or the steps or ladder can be surrounded by a barrier such as those described above. For any pool barrier, the maximum clearance at the bottom of the barrier should not exceed 4 inches above grade, when the measurement is done on the side of the barrier facing away from the pool.

If an aboveground pool has a barrier on the top of the pool, the maximum vertical clearance between the top of the pool and the bottom of the barrier should not exceed 4 inches. Preventing a child from getting through a pool barrier can be done by restricting the sizes of openings in a barrier and by using self-closing and self-latching gates.

To prevent a young child from getting through a fence or other barrier, all openings should be small enough so that a 4-inch diameter sphere cannot pass through. This size is based on the head breadth and chest depth of a young child. Gates

There are two kinds of gates which might be found on a residential property. Both can play a part in the design of a swimming pool barrier.

Pedestrian Gates are the gates people walk through. Swimming pool barriers should be equipped with a gate or gates which restrict access to the pool. A locking device should be included in the gate design. Gates should open out from the pool and should be self closing and self-latching. If a gate is properly designed, even if the gate is not completely latched, a young child pushing on the gate in order to enter the pool area will at least close the gate and may actually engage the latch. When the release mechanism of the self-latching device is less than 54 inches from the bottom of the gate, the release mechanism for the gate should be at least 3 inches below the top of the gate on the side facing the pool. Placing the release mechanism at this height prevents a young child from reaching over the top of a gate and releasing the latch. Also, the gate and barrier should have no opening greater than 1/2 inch within 18 inches of the latch release mechanism. This prevents a young child from reaching through the gate and releasing the latch. Other gates should be equipped with self-latching devices. The self-latching devices should be installed as described for pedestrian gates.

How to Prevent a Child from Getting UNDER / THROUGH a Pool Barrier

In many homes, doors open directly onto the pool area or onto a patio which leads to the pool. In such cases, the wall of the house is an important part of the pool barrier, and passage through any doors in the house wall should be controlled by security measures. The importance of controlling a young childs movement from house to pool is demonstrated by the statistics obtained during CPSCs study of pool incidents in California, Arizona and Florida. Almost half (46 percent) of the children who became victims of pool accidents were last seen in the house just before they were found in the pool.

All doors which give access to a swimming pool should be equipped with an audible alarm which sounds when the door and/or screen are opened. The alarm should sound for 30 seconds or more within 7 seconds after the door is opened and should be loud, at least 85 decibels, when measured 10 feet away from the alarm mechanism. The alarm sound should be distinct from other sounds in the house, such as the telephone, doorbell and smoke alarm. The alarm should have an automatic reset feature. Because adults will want to pass through house doors in the pool barrier without setting off the alarm, the alarm should have a switch that allows adults to temporarily deactivate the alarm for up to 15 seconds. The deactivation switch could be a touch pad (keypad) or a manual switch, and should be located at least 54 inches above the threshold of the door covered by the alarm. This height was selected based on the reaching ability of young children.

Power safety covers can be installed on pools to serve as security barriers. Power safety covers should conform to the specifications in ASTM F 1346-91. This standard specifies safety performance requirements for pool covers to protect young children from drowning. Self-closing doors with self-latching devices could also be used to safeguard doors which give ready access to a swimming pool.

Replacing Your Roof

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 24 Apr 2007 07:44:35 -0500

Replacing Your Roof

The age of your roof is usually the major factor in determining when to replace it. Most roofs last many years if properly installed and often can be repaired rather than replaced. An isolated leak usually can be repaired. The average life expectancy of a typical residential roof is 15 to 20 years. Water damage to a homes interior or overhangs is commonly caused by leaks from a single weathered portion of the roof, poorly installed flashing, or from around chimneys and skylights. These problems do not necessarily mean you need a new roof.

Fire-Resistant Materials Some roofing materials, including asphalt shingles and especially wood shakes, are less resistant to fire than others. When wildfires and brush fires spread to houses, it is often because burning branches, leaves, and other debris buoyed by the heated air and carried by the wind fall on roofs. If the roof of your house is covered with wood or asphalt shingles, you should consider replacing them with fire-resistant materials. You can replace your existing roofing materials with slate, terra cotta or other types of tile, or standing-seam metal roofing. Replacing roofing materials is difficult and dangerous work. Unless you are skilled in roofing and have all the necessary tools and equipment, you will probably want to hire a roofing contractor to do the work. Also a roofing contractor can advise you on the relative advantages and disadvantages of various fire-resistant roofing materials.

Hiring a Licensed Contractor One of the best ways to select a roofing contractor is to ask friends or relatives for recommendations. You may also contact a professional roofers association for referrals. Professional associations have stringent guidelines for their members to follow. The roofers association in your area will provide you with a list of available contractors. Follow these guidlines when selecting a contractor...

Get three references and review past work
Get at least three bids.
Get a written contract and dont sign anything until you completely understand the terms.
Pay 10 percent down or $1,000 whichever is less.
Dont let payments get ahead of the work.
Dont pay cash.
Dont make final payment until youre satisfied with the job.
Dont rush into repairs or be pressured into making an immediate decision

Youve Chosen the Contractor... What About the Contract? Make sure everything is in writing. The contract is one of the best ways to prevent problems before you begin. The contract protects you and the contractor by including everything you have both agreed upon. Get all promises in writing and spell out exactly what the contractor will and will not do.

...and Permits? Your contract should call for all work to be performed in accordance with all applicable building codes. The building codes set minimum safety standards for construction. Generally, a building permit is require whenever structural work is involved. The contractor should obtain all necessary building permits. If this is not specified in the contract, you may be held legally responsible for failure to obtain the required permit. The building department will inspect your roof when the project has reached a certain stage and again whe the roof is completed.

...and Insurance? Make sure the contractor carries workers compensation insurance and general liability insurance in case of accidents on the job. Ask to have copies of these policies for your job file. You should protect yourself from mechanics lien against your home in the event the contractor does no pay subcontractors or material suppliers. You may be able to protect yourself by having a release of lien clause in your contract. A release of lien clause requires the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers to furnish a certificate of waiver of lien. If you are financing your project, the bank or lending institution may require that the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers verify that they have been paid, before releasing funds for subsequent phases of the project. A leaky roof can damage ceilings, walls, and furnishings. To protect buildings and their contents from water damage, roofers repair and install roofs made of tar or asphalt and gravel; rubber or thermoplastic; metal; or shingles made of asphalt, slate, fiberglass, wood, tile, or other material. Roofers also may waterproof foundation walls and floors. Keep these points in mind if you plan to have your existing roofing materials replaced:

Tile, metal, and slate are more expensive roofing materials, but if you need to replace your roofing anyway, it may be worthwhile to pay a little more for the added protection these materials provide.
Slate and tile can be much heavier than asphalt shingles or wood shingles. If you are considering switching to one of these heavier coverings, your roofing contractor should determine whether the framing of your roof is strong enough to support them.
If you live in an area where snow loads are a problem, consider switching to a modern standing-seam metal roof, which will usually shed snow efficiently.

Roofing and Maintenance of the Roof.

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Mon, 23 Apr 2007 21:45:37 -0500

Roofing

Roofs play a key role in protecting building occupants and interiors from outside weather conditions, primarily moisture. The roof, insulation, and ventilation must all work together to keep the building free of moisture. Roofs also provide protection from the sun. In fact, if designed correctly, roof overhangs can protect the buildings exterior walls from moisture and sun.The concerns regarding moisture, standing water, durability and appearance are different, reflected in the choices of roofing materials.

Maintaining Your Roof Homeowner maintenance includes cleaning the leaves and debris from the roofs valleys and gutters. Debris in the valleys can cause water to wick under the shingles and cause damage to the interior of the roof. Clogged rain gutters can cause water to flow back under the shingles on the eaves and cause damage. Whatever the roofing material may be including composition shingle, wood shake, tile or metal. The best way to preserve your roof is to stay off it. Also, seasonal changes in the weather are usually the most destructive forces. There are two types of roofsflat and pitched (sloped). Most commercial, industrial, and apartment buildings have flat or slightly sloping roofs. Most houses have pitched roofs. Some roofers work on both types; others specialize. Most flat roofs are covered with several layers of materials. Roofers first put a layer of insulation on the roof deck. Over the insulation, they then spread a coat of molten bitumen, a tarlike substance. Next, they install partially overlapping layers of roofing felt, a fabric saturated in bitumen, over the surface. Roofers use a mop to spread hot bitumen over the surface and under the next layer. This seals the seams and makes the surface watertight. Roofers repeat these steps to build up the desired number of layers, called plies. The top layer either is glazed to make a smooth finish or has gravel embedded in the hot bitumen to create a rough surface. An increasing number of flat roofs are covered with a single-ply membrane of waterproof rubber or thermoplastic compounds. Roofers roll these sheets over the roofs insulation and seal the seams. Adhesive, mechanical fasteners, or stone ballast hold the sheets in place. The building must be of sufficient strength to hold the ballast. Most residential roofs are covered with shingles. To apply shingles, roofers first lay, cut, and tack 3-foot strips of roofing felt lengthwise over the entire roof. Then, starting from the bottom edge, they staple or nail overlapping rows of shingles to the roof. Workers measure and cut the felt and shingles to fit intersecting roof surfaces and to fit around vent pipes and chimneys. Wherever two roof surfaces intersect, or shingles reach a vent pipe or chimney, roofers cement or nail flashing-strips of metal or shingle over the joints to make them watertight. Finally, roofers cover exposed nailheads with roofing cement or caulking to prevent water leakage. Roofers who use tile, metal shingles, or shakes follow a similar process. Some roofers also waterproof and dampproof masonry and concrete walls and floors. To prepare surfaces for waterproofing, they hammer and chisel away rough spots, or remove them with a rubbing brick, before applying a coat of liquid waterproofing compound. They also may paint or spray surfaces with a waterproofing material, or attach waterproofing membrane to surfaces. When dampproofing, they usually spray a bitumen-based coating on interior or exterior surfaces.

Spring Home Checklist Maintenance Tips

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Mon, 23 Apr 2007 20:39:24 -0500

Spring
Replace smoke and fire alarm batteries (at least twice per year)
Cut back any trees or shrubs touching the exterior (twice per year)
Inspect and touch up exterior paint
Inspect foundation for water penetration, settlement, and cracks
Inspect or treat exterior wood for splintering, decay, and insect damage
Inspect window insulation and remove storm windows
Clean exterior of upper-story windows (twice per year)
Install window screens, repairing as needed
Clean gutters and inspect downspouts (twice per year)
Inspect roof for warping, aging, moss, and cracking
Perform seasonal pest control (quarterly)

EPA Recommends Radon test prior to purchasing

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Fri, 20 Apr 2007 14:15:43 -0500

If you are buying a home or selling your home, have it tested for radon.

For a new home, ask if radon-resistant construction features were used and if the home has been tested.
Fix the home if the radon level is 4 picoCuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher.
Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many cases, may be reduced.
Take steps to prevent device interference when conducting a radon test

If You Are Selling a Home...

EPA recommends that you test your home before putting it on the market and, if necessary, lower your radon levels. Save the test results and all information you have about steps that were taken to fix any problems. This could be a positive selling point.

If You Are Buying a Home...

EPA recommends that you know what the indoor radon level is in any home you consider buying. Ask the seller for their radon test results. If the home has a radon-reduction system, ask the seller for information they have about the system.

If the home has not yet been tested, you should have the housed tested.

If you are having a new home built, there are features that can be incorporated into your home during construction to reduce radon levels.

The radon testing guidelines in this Guide have been developed specifically to deal with the time-sensitive nature of home purchases and sales, and the potential for radon device interference. These guidelines are slightly different from the guidelines in other EPA publications which provide radon testing and reduction information for non-real estate situations.

This Guide recommends three short-term testing options for real estate transactions. EPA also recommends testing a home in the lowest level which is currently suitable for occupancy, since a buyer may choose to live in a lower area of the home than that used by the seller.

1. Why Do You Need to Test for Radon?

a. Radon Has Been Found In Homes All Over the U.S.

Radon is a radioactive gas that has been found in homes all over the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home through well water. Your home can trap radon inside.

Any home can have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements. In fact, you and your family are most likely to get your greatest radiation exposure at home. That is where you spend most of your time.

Nearly 1 out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to have an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more). Elevated levels of radon gas have been found in homes in your state.

b. EPA and the Surgeon General Recommend That You Test Your Home

Testing is the only way to know if you and your family are at risk from radon. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.

You cannot predict radon levels based on state, local, and neighborhood radon measurements. Do not rely on radon test results taken in other homes in the neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your home. Homes which are next to each other can have different radon levels. Testing is the only way to find out what your home's radon level is.

In some areas, companies may offer different types of radon service agreements. Some agreements let you pay a one-time fee that covers both testing and radon mitigation, if needed.

U.S. Surgeon General Health Advisory

"Indoor radon gas is the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the United States and breathing it over prolonged periods can present a significant health risk to families all over the country. It's important to know that this threat is completely preventable. Radon can be detected with a simple test and fixed through well-established venting techniques." January 2005

Types of Home Inspections and Testing Offered by Priority One Home Inspections, LLC

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Mon, 09 Apr 2007 10:56:06 -0500

Priority One offers a multitude of inspections for your convenience and safety. Listed below are the types of inspections and/or testing we offer to all our clients.

Buyers Pre-Purchase Complete Inspection
Sellers Pre-Listing Inspection
Systems -Only (4-Point limited - Roof, HVAC, Plumbing, Electrical)
Twelve (12)- Month Warranty Inspection
New Construction Inspection
Home Maintenance Inspection
Commercial Inspection
Investments
Radon Testing

Electrical Safety

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Mon, 09 Apr 2007 08:27:00 -0500

Electricity is an essential part of our lives. However, it has the potential to cause great harm. Electrical systems will function almost indefinitely if properly installed and not overloaded or physically abused. Electrical fires in our homes claim the lives of 485 Americans each year and injure 2,305 more. Some of these fires are caused by electrical system failures and appliance defects, but many more are caused by the misuse and poor maintenance of electrical appliances, incorrectly installed wiring, and overloaded circuits and extension cords.

- Never use anything but the proper fuse to protect a circuit.
- Find and correct overloaded circuits.
- Never place extension cords under rugs.
- Outlets near water should be GFI-type outlets.
- Don't allow trees near power lines to be climbed.
- Keep ladders, kites, equipment and anything else away from overhead power lines.

Electrical Panels

Electricity enters the home through a control panel and a main switch where one can shut off all the power in an emergency. These panels are usually in the basement. Control panels use either fuses or circuit breakers. Install the correct fuses for the panel. Never use a greater numbered fuse or a metallic item such as a penny. If fuses are used and there is a stoppage in power, look for the broken metal strip in the top of a blown fuse. Replace the fuse with a new one marked with the correct amperage. Reset circuit breakers from off to on. Be sure to check why the fuse or circuit blew. Possible causes are frayed wires, overloaded outlets or defective appliances. Never overload a circuit with high wattage appliances. Check the wattage on appliance labels. If there is frayed insulation or a broken wire, a dangerous short circuit may result and cause a fire. If power stoppages continue or if a frayed or broken wire is found, contact an electrician.

Outlets and Extension Cords

Make sure all electrical outlets are three-hole, grounded outlets. If there is water in the area, there should be a GFI or Ground Fault Interrupter outlet. All outdoor outlets should be GFIs. There should be ample electrical capacity to run equipment without tripping circuit breakers or blowing fuses. Minimize extension cord use. Never place them under rugs. Use extension cords sparingly and check them periodically. Use the proper electrical cord for the job, and put safety plugs in unused outlets.

Electrical Appliances

Appliances need to be treated with respect and care. They need room to breathe. Avoid enclosing them in a cabinet without proper openings and do not store papers around them. Level appliances so they do not tip. Washers and dryers should be checked often. Their movement can put undue stress on electrical connections. If any appliance or device gives off a tingling shock, turn it off, unplug it and have a qualified person correct the problem. Shocks can be fatal. Never insert metal objects into appliances without unplugging them. Check appliances periodically to spot worn or cracked insulation, loose terminals, corroded wires, defective parts and any other components that might not work correctly. Replace these appliances or have them repaired by a person qualified to do so.

Electrical Heating Equipment

Portable electrical heating equipment may be used in the home as a supplement to the home heating system. Caution must be taken when using these heating supplements. Keep them away from combustibles and make sure they cannot be tipped over. Keep electrical heating equipment in good working condition. Do not use them in bathrooms because of the risk of contact with water and electrocution. Many people use electric blankets in their homes. They will work well if they are kept in good condition. Look for cracks or breaks in the wiring, plugs and connectors. Look for charred spots on both sides. Many things can cause electric blankets to overheat. They include other bedding placed on top of them, pets sleeping on top of them, and putting things on top of the blanket when it is in use. Folding the blankets can also bend the coils and cause overheating.

Children

Electricity is important to the workings of the home, but can be dangerous, especially to children. Electrical safety needs to be taught to children early on. Safety plugs should be inserted in unused outlets when toddlers are in the home. Make sure all outlets in the home have face plates. Teach children not to put things into electrical outlets and not to chew on electrical cords. Keep electrical wiring boxes locked. Do not allow children to come in contact with power lines outside. Never allow them to climb trees near power lines, utility poles or high tension towers.

Electricity and Water

A body can act like a lightning rod and carry the current to the ground. People are good conductors of electricity, particularly when standing in water or on a damp floor. A body can act like a lightning rod and carry the current to the ground. Never use any electric appliance in the tub or shower. Never touch an electric cord or appliance with wet hands. Do not use electrical appliances in damp areas or while standing on damp floors. In areas where water is present, use outlets with "ground fault interrupters" or GFIs. Shocks can be fatal.

Animal Hazards

Mice and other rodents can chew on electrical wires and damage them. If rodents are suspected or known to be in the home, be aware of the damage they may cause and take measures to get rid of them.

Outside Hazards

There are several electrical hazards outside the home. Be aware of overhead and underground power lines. People have been electrocuted when an object they are moving has come in contact with the overhead power lines. Keep ladders, antennas, kites and poles away from power lines leading to the house and other buildings. Do not plant trees, shrubs, or bushes under power lines or near underground power lines. Never build a swimming pool or other structure under the power line leading to your house. Before digging, learn the location of underground power lines.
Do not climb power poles or transmission towers. Never let anyone shoot or throw stones at insulators. If you have an animal trapped in a tree or on the roof near electric lines, phone your utility company. Do not take a chance of electrocuting yourself. Be aware of weather conditions when installing and working with electrical appliances. Never use electrical power tools or appliances with rain overhead or water underfoot. Use only outdoor lights, fixtures and extension cords. Plug into outlets with a ground fault interrupter. Downed power lines are extremely dangerous. If you see a downed power line, call the electric company, and warn others away. If a power line hits your car while you are in it, stay inside unless the car catches fire. If the car catches fire, jump clear without touching metal and the ground at the same time.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

- Routinely check your electrical appliances and wiring.
- Frayed wires can cause fires. Replace all worn, old or damaged appliance cords immediately.
- Use electrical extension cords wisely and don't overload them.
- Keep electrical appliances away from wet floors and counters; pay special care to electrical appliances in the bathroom and kitchen.
- Don't allow children to play with or around electrical appliances like space heaters, irons and hair dryers.
- Keep clothes, curtains and other potentially combustible items at least three feet from all heaters.
- If an appliance has a three-prong plug, use it only in a three-slot outlet. Never force it to fit into a two-slot outlet or extension cord.
- Never overload extension cords or wall sockets. Immediately shut off, then professionally replace, light switches that are hot to the touch and lights that flicker. Use safety closures to "child-proof" electrical outlets
- Check your electrical tools regularly for signs of wear. If the cords are frayed or cracked, replace them. Replace any tool if it causes even small electrical shocks, overheats, shorts out or gives off smoke or sparks.

Care and maintenance of a Septic System.

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 03 Apr 2007 13:11:16 -0500

Septic systems treat and disperse relatively small volumes of wastewater from individual or small numbers of homes and commercial buildings. Septic system regulation is usually a state, tribal, and local responsibility. EPA provides information to homeowners and assistance to state and local governments to improve the management of septic systems to prevent failures that could harm human health and water quality.

Information for Homeowners

If your septic tank failed, or you know someone whose did, you are not alone. As a homeowner, you are responsible for maintaining your septic system. Proper septic system maintenance will help keep your system from failing and will help maintain your investment in your home. Failing septic systems can contaminate the ground water that you or your neighbors drink and can pollute nearby rivers, lakes and coastal waters.
Ten simple steps you can take to keep your septic system working properly.
Locate your septic tank and drainfield. Keep a drawing of these locations in your records.
Have your septic system inspected at least every three years.
Pump your septic tank as needed (generally every three to five years).
Don't dispose of household hazardous wastes in sinks or toilets.
Keep other household items, such as dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, and cat litter out of your system.
Use water efficiently.
Plant only grass over and near your septic system. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs might clog and damage the system. Also, do not apply manure or fertilizers over the drainfield.
Keep vehicles and livestock off your septic system. The weight can damage the pipes and tank, and your system may not drain properly under compacted soil.
Keep gutters and basement sump pumps from draining into or near your septic system.
Check with your local health department before using additives. Commercial septic tank additives do not eliminate the need for periodic pumping and can be harmful to your system.

Maintaining Your Well System

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 03 Apr 2007 13:06:01 -0500

Although a properly constructed private well should require little routine maintenance, these tips will help protect your well system and keep it in good working order for years to come:

Get an annual well maintenance check, including a bacterial test.
Your well should be checked any time there is a change in taste, odor or appearance, or anytime a water supply system is serviced.
Periodically check the well cap and casing to make sure they are in good working order. A damaged casing could cause your water to become contaminated.
Maintain a clean zone of at least 50 feet between your well and any kennels or livestock operations.
Do not treat the area around the well with pesticides or fertilizer.
Keep the top of your well at least one foot above the ground. Slope the ground away from your well to allow proper drainage.
Don't pile snow, leaves, or other materials around your well.
Always keep your well records in a safe place.

What Priority One Home Inspections does on an Inspection

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 03 Apr 2007 10:55:23 -0500

Inspection of your new property doesn't start when we meet at the house; it starts during our initial conversation. Obtaining as much information as possible about the home prior to the actual inspection helps both of us. The pre-inspection process is as follows coupled with the report generation:

· Information such as square footage, age of the structure, style of house, i.e. ranch, two or three story house, etc., beforehand improves the inspection.

· The process continues upon my arrival at the house about thirty- (30) minutes prior to the agreed upon time. Viewing the neighborhood, streets, surrounding area, and homes on that block can tell allot about your particular home purchase and the types of construction guidelines used when the house was constructed.

· When I return to the office I will prepare the final report then forward you, via email, a computerized printout of the inspection with the results and helpful information on the house. Which means, you will have the inspection report that day, normally within hours, in an easy to read format complete with pictures and suggestions.

I will conduct a thorough inspection of your home, inside and out.

As a NACHI-certified professional home inspector, I have the knowledge and expertise to provide you with a thorough and professional, non-intrusive, visual inspection of your home, from roof to foundation.

Outside the home, I will check the exterior walls, roof, driveway, deck, etc., then I will move inside to examine the walls, ceilings, floors, doors, and windows. The heating, air-conditioning, plumbing, and electrical systems will all be examined to ensure that they function as intended. Bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms receive a thorough check, along with the attic and basement or crawl space.

Here are some of the many items I'll be looking at during your home inspection:

Foundation and support structure
Fireplaces
Roof systems
Basement seepage
Safety controls
Water heater
Ventilation
Electrical capacity & components
Structural integrity
Steps and stairs
Heating system
Central Air Conditioning system
Walks and driveways
Built-in appliances
Plumbing system & fixtures
Garages, Carports, Workshops or other external buildings
Surface drainage
Windows & doors
Insulation
Gutters & downspouts
Decks
Sump pumps

I invite you to come along and watch as I inspect your home, feel free to ask questions at any time during your home inspection. For more information on home inspections, please browse the rest of my web site, and be sure to check out the Homeowners Resources section under Links of Interest.

How long does the inspection take? A commonly used guideline for a 2000 square foot home is about 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Of course, different size homes have different time frames for completion. The guideline does not include the 30-minute time frame prior to the inspection or the report generation time.

Priority One Home Inspections, LLC Qualifications

Denny McAuley (Home Check America) — Tue, 03 Apr 2007 10:50:56 -0500

My Qualifications

Priority One has the qualifications you need for an in-depth inspection and customer service:

Experience and proven techniques necessary to conduct a step-by-step inspection of your property.

Offer you the opportunity to ask questions throughout the inspection.
Generate an easy-to-follow report describing the structure and the results of that inspection, enhanced with pictures, emailed to you within hours of the home inspection. Commercial Property Assessment Reports will vary by the size and scope of the inspection.
Available seven days a week for your time-sensitive real estate transactions.
Licensed by the State of Illinois as a home inspector and as a business entity.
Certified by the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI)
Fully insured.
Outstanding Customer Service - A packet with both the report and pictures of the inspection on a CD, Pre-Closing Inspection Form, and Home Hints booklet mailed to you after the inspection, all FREE. Service won't end with the delivery of your report either. I'll gladly help you with any questions or concerns about your new home or investment property long after you get your report.
Convenient payment with your Visa or MasterCard!
Qualifications Outlined:
- Twenty plus years of inspection experience in a career Fire Department.
- Former Operations Manager for area school district, responsible for inspections and maintenance of nine facilities.
- Inspection Training Associates (ITA) Commercial Inspection Graduate Series - Certified Commercial Inspector
- State of Illinois Licensed Home Inspector. License number 450.0003154.
- State of Illinois Licensed Home Inspector Entity. License Number 451.0000671
- Follow and abide by the State of Illinois Standards of Practice.
- Member in good standing of the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI). Member number 06010792.
- Passed the required NACHI on-line inspector examination on general inspection practices, including separate roofing and electrical exams.
- Completed and passed the NACHI's Code of Ethics obstacle course and test.
- Passed NACHI's Standards of Practice test and follow these guidelines.
- Peoples Energy Appliance Inspection and Safety Overview Modules I & II.
- NACHI course on Electrical Inspections for Home Inspectors.
- Attic Ventilation Principles and installation class - Air Vent, Inc.
- PHII Certified manufactured home inspector.
- I fulfill at least twenty-four (24) hours of continuing education every year per NACHI requirements. In addition, nine (9) hours of continuing education per year are required to maintain the State of Illinois licensing conditions.
- Fully insured.
- Partner with a Radon Testing Company that has over twenty years of testing knowldege and experience!