Cheryl's Blog

Dishwashers

Cheryl Belanger (Garibaldi Home Inspections) — Mon, 13 Aug 2007 11:14:33 -0500

I am sure you have read this in a home inspection report at one time or another:

Dishwasher is missing high loop.

As a home inspector, I see this condition in a lot of homes. This is probably one of the easiest conditions to correct when getting a home ready for an inspection.

First off, why is it needed? Dirty water drains from the dishwasher down the hose into the sink drain or garbage disposal. A high loop in the hose helps prevent a vacuum that could draw dirty water back into the dishwasher. Take a quick peak under your sink and make sure your hose doesn't droop.

First, locate the discharge hose that runs from the dishwasher into the garbage disposal or sink drain. Loop the discharge hose as high under the sink as possible; making sure the loop is higher than the point where the water discharges. Use wire or a plastic tie to secure the high loop in place.

Not all homes use a high looped hose. Some use an air gap instead. You'll need one or the other, but they both do the same job, keeping the dirty water away from the clean dishes.

I suggest keeping a few plastic zip ties in your car for quick high loop repairs. Checking the dishwasher drain line before a home is inspected, will prevent one condition from showing up on an inspection report.

If you would like more suggestions on getting a home ready for an inspection, please let me know, I will be glad to send you more information!

Visit our website for more home safety/maintenance information.

To maintain the efficiency, safety, and useful life of your dishwasher, it is important that your home maintenance program include the proper maintenance for your dishwasher.

An automatic dishwasher operates by using an electric heating element to heat water at the bottom of the dishwasher, then using rotating spray arms to create jets of water which swirl around the dishes to dislodge the food and grease. Any obstruction of the water's flow greatly reduces the dishwasher's washing efficiency.

Shown below are the recommended routine maintenance tasks for your dishwasher.

Over time, a heavy film build-up from hard water minerals can become deposited on the inside walls and heating element of the dishwasher. Running the unit with a quart of white vinegar (with no dishes or detergent in it) will remove these deposits.

Removing the deposits improves the efficiency of the heating element and improves the appearance of the inside tub.

The dishwasher should be treated for scale build-up every two months.

Annual dishwasher maintenance consists of 5 tasks:

1. Clean filter and trap: Inside the dishwasher, the filter and trap are at the bottom where the water drains out. For most models, the filter and trap lift out so that they can be cleaned with a stiff brush.

2. Clear spray arm holes: Food particle or mineral deposits can clog the hole in the spray arms. Take the spray arms out of the dishwasher, and clean the holes out with a stiff wire. Shake out any loose debris.

3. Clear the "air trap": Some models have a gap in the discharge plumbing to ensure that water does not backflow into the household water supply. If the unit has an air gap it should be checked and cleaned.

4. Check and tighten any loose water supply hose or drain connections.

5. Check the door seal gasket for any cracks or leaks. Clean door seal with sponge to remove any debris or detergent build up.

Appliance life

Cheryl Belanger (Garibaldi Home Inspections) — Sun, 22 Apr 2007 11:43:07 -0500

Have you ever wondered how long appliances last?

Well, here is a list put together by Freddie Mac. Its just a guideline, of course. You can extend the estimated life span of your appliances by scheduling regular service calls with a specialist.

Schedule of Normal Life

Appliances Life Estimate in Years

Dishwashers 5 to 12

Disposals 5 to 12

Washers and dryers 8 to 12

Water heaters 8 to 12

Refrigerators 15 to 20

Stoves 15 to 20

Gutters and Downspouts Life Estimate in Years

Galvanized 15 to 20

Copper Life of home if well-maintained

Heating and Air Conditioning Life Estimate in Years

Warm air furnace 8 to 12

Heat pumps 8 to 12

Air conditioning compressors 8 to 15

Gas chillers 8 to 15

Hot water boilers 30 to 50

Plumbing Life Estimate in Years

Gas hot water heater 8 to 12

Electric hot water heater 10-15

Private disposal systems (septic) 15 to 25

Galvanized water pipes 30 to 50

Roofs Life Estimate in Years

Selvage or asphalt roll 12 to 20

Wood shake and shingle 15 to 20

Asphalt 15 to 20

Fiberglass 15 to 20

Asbestos shingle 30-50

Concrete Tile 40-50

Slate 40-75

Swimming pool safety

Cheryl Belanger (Garibaldi Home Inspections) — Fri, 06 Apr 2007 12:34:39 -0500

Swimming Pool Safety
Each year, about 280 children under 5 drown in swimming pools. In addition, the suction from drains in swimming pools and spas, under certain conditions, can entrap swimmers underwater. To help protect your family, be sure to take the following steps.
Use Layers of Protection
To prevent swimming pool drownings, layers of protection are essential. Place barriers completely around the pool, closely supervise young children, and be prepared in case of emergency.
In addition:
If a child is missing, always look first in the pool. Seconds count!
Knowing how to swim doesn’t make a child drown-proof. Never use flotation devices as a substitute for supervision.
Keep rescue equipment and a phone next to the pool.
Learn cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR).
Install physical barriers around the pool to limit access. - Fences and walls should be at least 4-feet high and installed completely around the pool. - Gates should be self-closing and self-latching. The latch should be out of reach of small children.
If your house forms one side of the barrier for the pool, doors leading from the house to the pool should be protected with alarms that sound when the doors are unexpectedly opened. Or, use a power safety cover, a motor-powered barrier placed over the water area, to prevent access by young children.
For above-ground pools, steps and ladders to the pool should be secured or removed when the pool is not in use.
Pool and Spa Entrapment Dangers
Never use a pool or spa with a missing or broken drain cover. Be sure a newer,
safer drain cover is in place. The new drain covers are usually domed-shaped – instead of the old flat drain covers.
Consider installing a Safety Vacuum Release System (SVRS), a device that will automatically shut off a pump if a blockage is detected.
Have a professional regularly inspect your pool or spa for entrapment or entanglement hazards.
Plainly mark the location of the electrical cut-off switch for the pool or spa pump.
If someone is entrapped against a drain, cut off the pump immediately. Instead of trying to pull the person away from the powerful suction, pry a hand between the drain and the person’s body to break the seal.
Visit the CPSC web site for useful pool and spa safety information at http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/359.pdf

Visit our website for more home safety information.

Roofing

Cheryl Belanger (Garibaldi Home Inspections) — Tue, 13 Mar 2007 08:59:04 -0500

Roofing

Roofs play a key role in protecting building occupants and interiors from outside weather conditions, primarily moisture. The roof, insulation, and ventilation must all work together to keep the building free of moisture. Roofs also provide protection from the sun. In fact, if designed correctly, roof overhangs can protect the buildings exterior walls from moisture and sun. The concerns regarding moisture, standing water, durability and appearance are different, reflected in the choices of roofing materials.

Maintaining Your Roof

Homeowner maintenance includes cleaning the leaves and debris from the roofs valleys and gutters. Debris in the valleys can cause water to wick under the shingles and cause damage to the interior of the roof. Clogged rain gutters can cause water to flow back under the shingles on the eaves and cause damage. Whatever the roofing material may be including composition shingle, wood shake, tile or metal. The best way to preserve your roof is to stay off it. Also, seasonal changes in the weather are usually the most destructive forces.

There are two types of roofs-flat and pitched (sloped). Most commercial, industrial, and apartment buildings have flat or slightly sloping roofs. Most houses have pitched roofs. Some roofers work on both types; others specialize. Most flat roofs are covered with several layers of materials. Roofers first put a layer of insulation on the roof deck. Over the insulation, they then spread a coat of molten bitumen, a tarlike substance. Next, they install partially overlapping layers of roofing felt, a fabric saturated in bitumen, over the surface. Roofers use a mop to spread hot bitumen over the surface and under the next layer. This seals the seams and makes the surface watertight. Roofers repeat these steps to build up the desired number of layers, called plies. The top layer either is glazed to make a smooth finish or has gravel embedded in the hot bitumen to create a rough surface. An increasing number of flat roofs are covered with a single-ply membrane of waterproof rubber or thermoplastic compounds. Roofers roll these sheets over the roofs insulation and seal the seams. Adhesive, mechanical fasteners, or stone ballast hold the sheets in place. The building must be of sufficient strength to hold the ballast.

Most residential roofs are covered with shingles. To apply shingles, roofers first lay, cut, and tack 3-foot strips of roofing felt lengthwise over the entire roof. Then, starting from the bottom edge, they staple or nail overlapping rows of shingles to the roof. Workers measure and cut the felt and shingles to fit intersecting roof surfaces and to fit around vent pipes and chimneys. Wherever two roof surfaces intersect, or shingles reach a vent pipe or chimney, roofers cement or nail flashing-strips of metal or shingle over the joints to make them watertight. Finally, roofers cover exposed nailheads with roofing cement or caulking to prevent water leakage. Roofers who use tile, metal shingles, or shakes follow a similar process. Some roofers also waterproof and dampproof masonry and concrete walls and floors. To prepare surfaces for waterproofing, they hammer and chisel away rough spots, or remove them with a rubbing brick, before applying a coat of liquid waterproofing compound. They also may paint or spray surfaces with a waterproofing material, or attach waterproofing membrane to surfaces. When dampproofing, they usually spray a bitumen-based coating on interior or exterior surfaces.

A number of roofing materials are available...

Asphalt

Asphalt is the most commonly used roofing material. Asphalt products include shingles, roll-roofing, built-up roofing, and modified bitumen membranes. Asphalt shingles are typically the most common and economical choice for residential roofing. They come in a variety of colors, shapes, and textures. There are four different types: strip, laminated, interlocking, and large individual shingles. Laminated shingles consist of more than one layer of tabs to provide extra thickness. Interlocking shingles are used to provide greater wind resistance. And large individual shingles generally come in rectangular and hexagonal shapes. Roll-roofing products are generally used in residential applications, mostly for underlayments and flashings. They come in four different types of material: smooth-surfaced, saturated felt, specialty-eaves flashings, and mineral-surfaced. Only mineral surfaced is used alone as a primary roof covering for small buildings like sheds. Smooth-surfaced products are used primarily as flashing to seal the roof at intersections and protrusions, and for providing extra deck protection at the roof's eaves and valleys. Saturated felt is used as an underlayment between the roof deck and the roofing material. Specialty-eaves flashings are typically used in climates where ice dams and water backups are common. Built-up roofing (or BUR) is the most popular choice of roofing used on commercial, industrial and institutional buildings. BUR is used on flat or low-sloped roofs and consists of multiple layers of bitumen and ply sheets. Components of a BUR system include the roof deck, a vapor retarder, insulation, membrane and surfacing material. A modified bitumen membrane assembly consists of continuous plies of saturated felts, coated felts, fabrics or mats between which alternate layers of bitumen are applied, either surfaced or unsurfaced. Factory surfacing, if applied, includes mineral granules, slag, aluminum or copper. The bitumen determines the membrane's physical characteristics and provides primary waterproofing protection, while the reinforcement adds strength, puncture resistance and overall system integrity.

Metal

Most metal roofing products consist of steel or aluminum, although some consist of copper and other metals. Steel is invariably galvanized by the application of a zinc or zinc/aluminum coating, which greatly reduces the rate of corrosion. Metal roofing is available as traditional seam and batten, tiles, shingles, and shakes. Products also come in a variety of styles and colors. Metal roofs with solid sheathing control noise from rain, hail, and bad weather just as well as any other roofing material. Metal roofing can also help eliminate ice damming at the eves. And in wildfire-prone areas, metal roofing helps protect buildings from fire should burning embers land on the roof. Metal roofing costs more than asphalt, but it typically lasts 2 to 3 times longer than asphalt or wood shingles.

Wood

Wood shakes offer a natural look with a lot of character. Because of variations like color, width, thickness, or cut of the wood, no two shake roofs will ever be the same. Wood offers some energy benefits, too. It helps to insulate the attic, and it allows the house to breathe, circulating air through the small openings under the felt rows on which wooden shingles are laid. A wood shake roof, however, demands proper maintenance and repair, or it will not last as long as other products. Mold, rot, and insects can be a problem. The life cycle cost of a shake roof may be high, and old shakes can't be recycled. Most wood shakes are unrated by fire safety codes. Many use wipe or spray-on fire retardants, which offer less protection and are only effective for a few years. Some pressure-treated shakes are impregnated with fire retardant and meet national fire safety standards. Installing wood shakes is more complicated than roofing with composite shingles, and the quality of the finished roof depends on the experience of the contractor as well as the caliber of the shakes you use. The best shakes come from the heartwood of large old cedar trees, which are difficult to find. Some contractors maintain that shakes made from the outer wood of smaller cedars, the usual source today, are less uniform, more subject to twisting and warping, and don't last as long.

Concrete and Tile

Concrete tiles are made of extruded concrete that is colored. Traditional roofing tiles are made from clay. Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are durable, aesthetically appealing, and low in maintenance. They also provide energy savings and are environmentally friendly. Although material and installation costs are higher for concrete and clay tile roofs, when evaluated on a price versus performance basis, they may out perform other roofing materials. Tile adorns the roofs of many historic buildings as well as modern structures. In fact, because of its extreme durability, longevity, and safety, roof tile is the most prevalent roofing material in the world. Tested over centuries, roof tile can successfully withstand the most extreme weather conditions including hail, high wind, earthquakes, scorching heat, and harsh freeze-thaw cycles. Concrete and clay roof tiles also have unconditional Class A fire ratings, which means that, when installed according to building code, roof tile is non-combustible and maintains that quality throughout its lifetime. In recent years, manufacturers have developed new water-shedding techniques and, for high-wind situations, new adhesives and mechanical fasteners. Because the ultimate longevity of a tile roof also depends on the quality of the sub-roof, roof tile manufacturers are also working to improve flashings and other aspects of the underlayment system. Under normal circumstances, properly installed tile roofs are virtually maintenance free. Unlike other roofing materials, roof tiles actually become stronger over time. Because of roof tile's superior quality and minimal maintenance requirements, most roof tile manufacturers offer warranties that range from 50 years to the lifetime of the structure.

Concrete and clay tile roofing systems are also energy efficient, helping to maintain livable interior temperatures (in both cold and warm climates) at a lower cost than other roofing systems. Because of the thermal capacity of roof tiles and the ventilated air space that their placement on the roof surface creates, a tile roof can lower air conditioning costs in hotter climates and produce more constant temperatures in colder regions, which reduces potential ice accumulation. Tile roofing systems are made from naturally occurring materials and can be easily recycled into new tiles or other useful products. They are produced without the use of chemical preservatives, and do not deplete limited natural resources.

Single-Ply

Single-ply membranes are flexible sheets of compounded synthetic materials that are manufactured in a factory. There are three types of membranes: thermosets, thermoplastics, and modified bitumens. These materials provide strength, flexibility, and long-lasting durability. The advantages of pre-fabricated sheets are the consistency of the product quality, the versatility in their attachment methods, and therefore, their broader applicability. They are inherently flexible, used in a variety of attachment systems, and compounded for long lasting durability and watertight integrity for years of roof life. Thermoset membranes are compounded from rubber polymers. The most commonly used polymer is EPDM (often referred to as "rubber roofing"). Thermoset membranes make successful roofing materials because they can withstand the potentially damaging effects of sunlight and most common chemicals generally found on roofs. The easiest way to identify a thermoset membrane is by its seams, it requires the use of adhesive, either liquid or tape, to form a watertight seal at the overlaps. Thermoplastic membranes are based on plastic polymers. The most common thermoplastic is PVC (polyvinyl chloride) which has been made flexible through the inclusion of certain ingredients called plasticizers. Thermoplastic membranes are identified by seams that are formed using either heat or chemical welding. These seams are as strong or stronger than the membrane itself. Most thermoplastic membranes are manufactured to include a reinforcement layer, usually polyester or fiberglass, which provides increased strength and dimensional stability. Modified bitumen membranes are hybrids that incorporate the high tech formulation and prefabrication advantages of single-ply with some of the traditional installation techniques used in built-up roofing. These materials are factory-fabricated layers of asphalt, "modified" using a rubber or plastic ingredient for increased flexibility, and combined with reinforcement for added strength and stability. There are two primary modifiers used today: aPP (atactic polypropylene) and SBS (styrene butadiene styrene). The type of modifier used may determine the method of sheet installation. Some are mopped down using hot asphalt and some use torches to melt the asphalt so that it flows onto the substrate. The seams are sealed by the same technique.

Are You at Risk?

If you aren't sure whether your house is at risk from natural disasters, check with your local fire marshall, building official, city engineer, or planning and zoning administrator. They can tell you whether you are in a hazard area. Also, they usually can tell you how to protect yourself and your house and property from damage. Protection can involve a variety of changes to your house and property, changes that can vary in complexity and cost. You may be able to make some types of changes yourself. But complicated or large-scale changes and those that affect the structure of your house or its electrical wiring and plumbing should be carried out only by a professional contractor licensed to work in your state, county, or city. One example is fire protection, by replacing flammable roofing materials with fire-resistant materials. This is something that most homeowners would probably hire a contractor to do.

Replacing Your Roof

The age of your roof is usually the major factor in determining when to replace it. Most roofs last many years if properly installed and often can be repaired rather than replaced. An isolated leak usually can be repaired. The average life expectancy of a typical residential roof is 15 to 20 years. Water damage to a homes interior or overhangs is commonly caused by leaks from a single weathered portion of the roof, poorly installed flashing, or from around chimneys and skylights. These problems do not necessarily mean you need a new roof.

Fire-Resistant Materials

Some roofing materials, including asphalt shingles and especially wood shakes, are less resistant to fire than others. When wildfires and brush fires spread to houses, it is often because burning branches, leaves, and other debris buoyed by the heated air and carried by the wind fall on roofs. If the roof of your house is covered with wood or asphalt shingles, you should consider replacing them with fire-resistant materials. You can replace your existing roofing materials with slate, terra cotta or other types of tile, or standing-seam metal roofing. Replacing roofing materials is difficult and dangerous work. Unless you are skilled in roofing and have all the necessary tools and equipment, you will probably want to hire a roofing contractor to do the work. Also a roofing contractor can advise you on the relative advantages and disadvantages of various fire-resistant roofing materials.

Hiring a Licensed Contractor

One of the best ways to select a roofing contractor is to ask friends or relatives for recommendations. You may also contact a professional roofers association for referrals. Professional associations have stringent guidelines for their members to follow. The roofers association in your area will provide you with a list of available contractors. Follow these guidlines when selecting a contractor...

Get three references and review past work
Get at least three bids.
Get a written contract and dont sign anything until you completely understand the terms.
Pay 10 percent down or $1,000 whichever is less.
Dont let payments get ahead of the work.
Dont pay cash.
Dont make final payment until youre satisfied with the job.
Dont rush into repairs or be pressured into making an immediate decision

You've Chosen the Contractor... What About the Contract?

Make sure everything is in writing. The contract is one of the best ways to prevent problems before you begin. The contract protects you and the contractor by including everything you have both agreed upon. Get all promises in writing and spell out exactly what the contractor will and will not do.

...and Permits?

Your contract should call for all work to be performed in accordance with all applicable building codes. The building codes set minimum safety standards for construction. Generally, a building permit is require whenever structural work is involved. The contractor should obtain all necessary building permits. If this is not specified in the contract, you may be held legally responsible for failure to obtain the required permit. The building department will inspect your roof when the project has reached a certain stage and again whe the roof is completed.

...and Insurance?

Make sure the contractor carries workers compensation insurance and general liability insurance in case of accidents on the job. Ask to have copies of these policies for your job file. You should protect yourself from mechanics lien against your home in the event the contractor does no pay subcontractors or material suppliers. You may be able to protect yourself by having a release of lien clause in your contract. A release of lien clause requires the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers to furnish a certificate of waiver of lien. If you are financing your project, the bank or lending institution may require that the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers verify that they have been paid, before releasing funds for subsequent phases of the project. A leaky roof can damage ceilings, walls, and furnishings. To protect buildings and their contents from water damage, roofers repair and install roofs made of tar or asphalt and gravel; rubber or thermoplastic; metal; or shingles made of asphalt, slate, fiberglass, wood, tile, or other material. Roofers also may waterproof foundation walls and floors.

Keep these points in mind if you plan to have your existing roofing materials replaced:

Tile, metal, and slate are more expensive roofing materials, but if you need to replace your roofing anyway, it may be worthwhile to pay a little more for the added protection these materials provide.
Slate and tile can be much heavier than asphalt shingles or wood shingles. If you are considering switching to one of these heavier coverings, your roofing contractor should determine whether the framing of your roof is strong enough to support them.
If you live in an area where snow loads are a problem, consider switching to a modern standing-seam metal roof, which will usually shed snow efficiently.

Lead in Paint, Dust, and Soil

Cheryl Belanger (Garibaldi Home Inspections) — Sun, 11 Mar 2007 17:12:16 -0500

Did you know the following facts about lead?

FACT: Lead exposure can harm young children and babies even before they are born.

FACT: Even children who seem healthy can have high levels of lead in their bodies.

FACT: You can get lead in your body by breathing or swallowing lead dust, or by eating soil or paint chips containing lead.

FACT: You have many options for reducing lead hazards. In most cases, lead-based paint that is in good condition is not a hazard.

FACT: Removing lead-based paint improperly can increase the danger to your family.

If you think your home might have lead hazards, read on to learn about lead and some simple steps to protect your family.

Health Effects of Lead

*Childhood lead poisoning remains a major environmental health problem in the U.S.

*Even children who appear healthy can have dangerous levels of lead in their bodies.

People can get lead in their body if they:

Put their hands or other objects covered with lead dust in their mouths.
Eat paint chips or soil that contains lead.
Breathe in lead dust (especially during renovations that disturb painted surfaces).

Lead is even more dangerous to children than adults because:

Babies and young children often put their hands and other objects in their mouths. These objects can have lead dust on them.
Children's growing bodies absorb more lead.
Children's brains and nervous systems are more sensitive to the damaging effects of lead.

If not detected early, children with high levels of lead in their bodies can suffer from:

Damage to the brain and nervous system
Behavior and learning problems (such as hyperactivity)
Slowed growth
Hearing problems
Headaches

Lead is also harmful to adults. Adults can suffer from:

Difficulties during pregnancy
Other reproductive problems (in both men and women)
High blood pressure
Digestive problems
Nerve disorders
Memory and concentration problems
Muscle and joint pain

Where Lead is found

*In general, the older your home, the more likely it has lead-based paint. *

Paint. Many homes built before 1978 have lead-based paint. The federal government banned lead-based paint from housing in 1978. Some states stopped its use even earlier. Lead can be found:

In homes in the city, country, or suburbs.
In apartments, single-family homes, and both private and public housing.
Inside and outside of the house.

In soil around a home. (Soil can pick up lead from exterior paint, or other sources such as past use of leaded gas in cars.)
Household dust. (Dust can pick up lead from deteriorating lead-based paint or from soil tracked into a home.)
Drinking water. Your home might have plumbing with lead or lead solder. Call your local health department or water supplier to find out about testing your water. You cannot see, smell, or taste lead, and boiling your water will not get rid of lead. If you think your plumbing might have lead in it:

Use only cold water for drinking and cooking.
Run water for 15 to 30 seconds before drinking it, especially if you have not used your water for a few hours.

The job. If you work with lead, you could bring it home on your hands or clothes. Shower and change clothes before coming home. Launder your work clothes separately from the rest of your family's clothes.
Old painted toys and furniture.
Food and liquids stored in lead crystal or lead-glazed pottery or porcelain.
Lead smelters or other industries that release lead into the air.
Hobbies that use lead, such as making pottery or stained glass, or refinishing furniture.
Folk remedies that contain lead, such as "greta" and "azarcon" used to treat an upset stomach.

Where Lead is Likely to be a Hazard

*Lead from paint chips, which you can see, and lead dust, which you can't always see, can be serious hazards.*

Peeling, chipping, chalking, or cracking lead-based paint is a hazard and needs immediate attention.
Lead-based paint may also be a hazard when found on surfaces that children can chew or that get a lot of wear-and-tear. These areas include:

Windows and window sills.
Doors and door frames.
Stairs, railings, and banisters.
Porches and fences.

Note: Lead-based paint that is in good condition is usually not a hazard.

Lead dust can form when lead-based paint is dry scraped, dry sanded, or heated. Dust also forms when painted surfaces bump or rub together. Lead chips and dust can get on surfaces and objects that people touch. Settled lead dust can re-enter the air when people vacuum, sweep, or walk through it.
Lead in soil can be a hazard when children play in bare soil or when people bring soil into the house on their shoes.

Checking Your Family and Home for Lead

*Get your children and home tested if you think your home has high levels of lead.*

*Just knowing that a home has lead-based paint may not tell you if there is a hazard.*

To reduce your child's exposure to lead, get your child checked, have your home tested (especially if your home has paint in poor condition and was built before 1978), and fix any hazards you may have.

Your Family

Children's blood lead levels tend to increase rapidly from 6 to 12 months of age, and tend to peak at 18 to 24 months of age.
Consult your doctor for advice on testing your children. A simple blood test can detect high levels of lead. Blood tests are important for:

Children at ages 1 and 2.
Children and other family members who have been exposed to high levels of lead.
Children who should be tested under your state or local health screening plan.

Your doctor can explain what the test results mean and if more testing will be needed.

Your Home

You can get your home checked in one of two ways, or both:

A paint inspection tells you the lead content of every different type of painted surface in your home. It won't tell you whether the paint is a hazard or how you should deal with it.
A risk assessment tells you if there are any sources of serious lead exposure (such as peeling paint and lead dust). It also tells you what actions to take to address these hazards.

Have qualified professionals do the work. There are standards in place for certifying lead-based paint professionals to ensure the work is done safely, reliably, and effectively. Contact the National Lead Information Center (NLIC) for a list of contacts in your area.
Trained professionals use a range of methods when checking your home, including:

Visual inspection of paint condition and location.
A portable x-ray fluorescence (XRF) machine.
Lab tests of paint samples.
Surface dust tests.

Note: Home test kits for lead are available, but studies suggest that they are not always accurate. Consumers should not rely on these tests before doing renovations or to assure safety.

What You Can do to Protect Your Family

If you suspect that your house has lead hazards, you can take some immediate steps to reduce your family's risk:

If you rent, notify your landlord of peeling or chipping paint.
Clean up paint chips immediately.
Clean floors, window frames, window sills, and other surfaces weekly. Use a mop, sponge, or paper towel with warm water and a general all-purpose cleaner or a cleaner made specifically for lead. REMEMBER: NEVER MIX AMMONIA AND BLEACH PRODUCTS TOGETHER SINCE THEY CAN FORM A DANGEROUS GAS.
Thoroughly rinse sponges and mop heads after cleaning dirty or dusty areas.
Wash children's hands often, especially before they eat and before nap time and bed time.
Keep play areas clean. Wash bottles, pacifiers, toys, and stuffed animals regularly.
Keep children from chewing window sills or other painted surfaces.
Clean or remove shoes before entering your home to avoid tracking in lead from soil.
Make sure children eat nutritious, low-fat meals high in iron and calcium, such as spinach and dairy products. Children with good diets absorb less lead.

In addition to day-to-day cleaning and good nutrition:

You can temporarily reduce lead hazards by taking actions such as repairing damaged painted surfaces and planting grass to cover soil with high lead levels. These actions (called "interim controls") are not permanent solutions and will need ongoing attention.
To permanently remove lead hazards, you must hire a certified lead "abatement" contractor. Abatement (or permanent hazard elimination) methods include removing, sealing, or enclosing lead-based paint with special materials. Just painting over the hazard with regular paint is not enough.
Always hire a person with special training for correcting lead problems--someone who knows how to do this work safely and has the proper equipment to clean up thoroughly. Certified contractors will employ qualified workers and follow strict safety rules set by their state or the federal government.
Contact the National Lead Information Center(NLIC) for help with locating certified contractors in your area and to see if financial assistance is available.

Are You Planning to Buy or Rent a Home Built Before 1978?

Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains lead (called lead-based paint). Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly.

Federal law requires that individuals receive certain information before renting or buying a pre-1978 housing:

Residential Lead-Based Paint Disclosure Program

LANDLORDS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before leases take effect. Leases must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint.
SELLERS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before selling a house. Sales contracts must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint. Buyers have up to 10 days to check for lead hazards.
More information on the disclosure program.

Remodeling or Renovating a Home with Lead-Based Paint

*If not conducted properly, certain types of renovations can release lead from paint and dust into the air.*

Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains lead (called lead-based paint). Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly.

Federal law requires that contractors provide lead information to residents before renovating a pre-1978 housing:

Pre-Renovation Education Program (PRE)

RENOVATORS have to give you a pamphlet titled Protect Your Family from Lead in Your Home, before starting work.
More information on the Pre-Renovation Education Program.

Take precautions before your contractor or you begin remodeling or renovations that disturb painted surfaces (such as scraping off paint or tearing out walls):

Have the area tested for lead-based paint.
Do not use a belt-sander, propane torch, heat gun, dry scraper, or dry sandpaper to remove lead-based paint. These actions create large amounts of lead dust and fumes.
Lead dust can remain in your home long after the work is done.
Temporarily move your family (especially children and pregnant women) out of the apartment or house until the work is done and the area is properly cleaned. If you can't move your family, at least completely seal off the work area.
If you have already completed renovations or remodeling that could have released lead-based paint or dust, get your young children tested and follow the steps outlined to protect your family.

Ph 480-232-1875 Fax 480-354-1063

http://www.garibaldiinspections.com/

Home Safety Tips

Cheryl Belanger (Garibaldi Home Inspections) — Fri, 09 Mar 2007 20:30:03 -0600

Home Safety Tips

Watch those cords and plugs

Only use extension cords listed by a recognized certification organization such as Underwriters Laboratories ("UL listed").
Don't drape electrical cords or wire over radiators or pipes or other metal objects.
Electrical wires are designed to carry only a certain amount of power. Overloading causes them to overheat wiring and creates a fire hazard. Make sure the cord is large enough to carry the electricity necessary to operate the tool or appliance.
Three-pronged plugs ensure proper grounding for appliances and power tools. Never cut off the third prong. Replace any older cords that have non-polarized receptacles and don't have safety closures. These cords expose young children to shock hazards, as well as mouth and burn injuries.
Extension cords used outside should be specifically marked for such use. Improper use could result in a fire or shock hazard.
To decide where there is a potential for a cord overload, check the wattage rating on the cord. Then, add up the wattage ratings of all the products that will be operating at the same time on the cord.
If the wattage rating on the cord is lower than the wattage rating of the products, eliminate one load, and check to see if the cord can handle the remaining products. If the wattage rating is not on the product, multiply the number of amps by 125.

Safe appliance use

Unplug small kitchen and household appliances when they aren't in use. This is because a voltage surge could turn them on or cause a short circuit.
Make sure the Underwriter's Laboratories (UL) seal of approval applies to the entire appliance, not just the plug or cord.
Read and follow the manufacturer's instruction manual.
Do not use extension cords with high-wattage appliances, like air conditioners, portable electric heaters and irons.
If an appliance cord becomes frayed or damaged, stop using it. Do not use appliances with patched cords.
Major appliances, such as refrigerators and air conditioners, should be plugged into separate circuits.
Never touch an electric appliance while standing on a wet floor, or if your hands are wet.
Don't operate electrical appliances in or near water.
Immediately turn off and disconnect an appliance that sparks or stalls.
Always disconnect appliances before cleaning or servicing.
Always unplug appliances before cleaning or repairing them.

Avoiding hot water hazards

Keep water heaters at or below 120 degrees. If you can't change the setting, ask a qualified plumbing contractor to do it, or call your landlord and ask him or her to do it.
Install anti-scald devices in the kitchen sink, bath and shower. There are several on the market that will shut the water off when it exceeds a certain temperature.
You can also install pressure balance anti-scalding valves to keep the temperature of running water consistent even when the water pressure changes.

General home electric safety

Don't run extension cords under rugs or carpeting; replace frayed cords.
Avoid accidental starts by making sure the switch is off before plugging in the cord.
Pull the plug, not the cord, to disconnect an appliance.
Be careful not to overload circuits with too many plugs.
Install socket guards in all outlets not in use; this helps avoid injury to small children.
Ensure stairways are well lighted with switches at top and bottom.

Kitchen safety

Look for the UL (Underwriters Laboratories) label when buying appliances.
Ensure that your stove and sink areas are well lighted.
Make sure your hands are dry before operating electrical appliances.
Replace damaged electrical appliances and extension cords.
Keep a fire extinguisher near your kitchen area.

Utility room safety

Know where your main gas and water valves are (and how to close them).
Clearly mark gas and water lines.
Know how to light the pilot light on gas appliances.
Call the gas company if you suspect a gas leak.
Know where your main electric switch is and how to turn it off.
Become familiar with the proper fuse ratings for your electrical circuits.
Ensure that fuses or circuit breakers are correctly labeled.
Always determine why a fuse has blown or a circuit breaker tripped and eliminate the cause before correcting.
Have extra fuses on hand, and turn off the main switch before changing a fuse.
Ensure your washer and dryer are electrically grounded.
Keep combustibles, such as clothes in closets, kept away from hot light bulbs.

Living room, family room and bedroom safety

Areas with heavy traffic should be well lit.
Install night lights in bedrooms for children and guests.
Your home should have plenty of wall outlets for lamps and appliances to prevent octopus connections.
Regularly inspect and test smoke detectors.

Bathroom safety

Remove any appliances around the sink or bathtub area. If you have a hair dryer, electric shaver, or other appliance on a nearby counter top, unplug it when bathing a child as a precaution.
Even when an appliance is turned off, electricity is still present within it. Therefore, if an appliance falls in water, unplug it; never try to pull it out of the water while it is plugged in.
When filling the bathtub for your child's bath, turn on the cold water first, then add hot water to it. When the tub is at the desired level, turn off the hot water first, and then turn off the cold water.
Before putting a child in the bathtub, feel the water. If the water feels warm to you, it may be too hot for them.
Don't put children in the bathtub when the water is running, and never leave them alone in a bath, even for a minute.
Install night-lights in bathrooms for children and elderly persons.

Workshop and garage safety

A workshop should be well lighted and ventilated.
Always keep tools out of reach of children.
Extension cords should have adequate capacity for the wattage of the tool or appliance you want to use.
Tools should be properly grounded or double-insulated.
When not in use, disconnect power tools (or lock the switches).
Wear eye protection when working with tools.
Be sure your garage is well lighted with switches at the doors.
Regularly inspect your garage door for safe operation.