Within 6-feet of the edge of any door

Not more than 12-feet apart along wall

At all wall spaces 24" or more wide

Within 24" of edge of sink, range, refrigerator, and end of counter

Not more than 4-feet apart along counter top

At all counter spaces 12" or more wide

At all kitchen island counter spaces

At all kitchen peninsula countertops

KITCHEN:

Not more than 20" above countertops

BATHROOM:

Within 3-feet of each basin

GARAGE:

A minimum of 1 receptacle required in garage

HALLWAY:

1 receptacle required for hallways 10-feet or more in length

OUTDOOR:

1 receptacle required at the front and back of dwelling, located less than 6-1/2 feet above grade

H. V. A. C.:

1 receptacle within 25-feet on air conditioning unit.

KITCHEN: All kitchen countertop receptacles must be GFCI protected

OUTDOOR: All outdoor receptacles must be GFCI protected

GARAGE: All general purpose garage receptacle must be GFCI protected

BATHROOM: All bathroom receptacles must GFCI protected

WET BAR SINK: Receptacles within 6-feet of sink must be GFCI protected

WORKSHOP: Receptacles in grade level workshop/storage buildings must be GFCI protected

BEDROOM: All bedroom/sleeping area outlets must be AFCI protected

AMPERAGE: Minimum of 1 - 20 amp circuit

DEDICATED: Circuit supplying more than one bathroom cannot supply any fan, light,

or receptacle, other than the bathroom receptacle(s)

SIZE: 20-amp circuit

DEDICATED: Circuit cannot supply any light, receptacle, etc. other than washing machine receptacle

SIZE: 20-amp rating for all kitchen receptacle circuits.

# OF CIRCUITS: Minimum of 2 - 20 amp circuits to supply kitchen

HOLES: Required where edge of hole is less than 1-1/4 inch from face of stud.

NOTCHES: Nail plates required over all notches for wiring.

P. V. C. Required where PVC piping is less than 1-1/4 inch from face of stud.

SCUTTLE HOLE: Wiring stapled to sides of rafters/ joists within 6-ft of the attic entrance.

SPACING: Attic wiring must be stapled not more than 4-1/2 feet apart.

BOXES: Wiring must be stapled within 12-inches of each box.

PLASTIC BOXES: Wiring must be stapled within 8-inches of plastic wall boxes.

METAL BOXES: Wiring must be stapled within 12-inches of metal wall boxes.

STUDS: Wiring must be stapled 1-1/4 inch from the face of the stud.

SPACING: Wiring must be stapled not more than 4-1/2 feet apart along studs.

WALLS: Exposed wires in wall must be protected with PVC or EMT up to 8-ft above floor

ATTIC: Protection required within 6-feet of scuttle hole (unless run on side of joist).

OUTSIDE: Exterior wiring must be protected up to 8-feet above grade.

UNDER SLAB: Must be in conduit (PVC) until outside of building.

BELOW GRADE: Must be protected by conduit to a depth of 18-inches minimum.

ABOVE GRADE: Must be protected by conduit up to 8-feet above grade.

SERVICE CABLE: 24-inches deep to top of cable

U. F. ROMEX 24-inches deep to top of romex

P. V. C. 18-inches deep to top of conduit

RIGID CONDUIT: 6-inches deep to top of conduit

DRIVEWAYS: All wiring under driveways must be 24-inches deep minimum.

CORROSION: All aluminum wires must have oxidation inhibitor at terminations.

SPLICES: Copper & aluminum can only be spliced with split bolt connectors rated for that use.

WHERE REQUIRED:

1. In each sleeping room.

2. Outside each sleeping area (in immediate vicinity).

3. Each story of the dwelling unit.

POWER: Smoke detectors must be hardwired and have battery backup

WIRING: Smoke detectors must be interconnected to activate all detectors at once

P. V. C.

COLOR: All electrical PVC must be gray in color and UL listed for electrical use.

REBAR: #4 ground wire must be connected to 20-foot length of rebar in footer and

extended to the outside for connection to the ground rod.

OPEN BULB: Open bulb incandescent fixtures are not allowed in clothes closets.

INCANDESCENT: Enclosed incandescent fixtures must be at least 12" from storage areas.

RECESSED: Recessed fixtures must be at least 6" from storage areas.

FLUORESCENT: Fluorescent fixtures must be at least 6" from storage areas (shelves).

LIGHTS: A switched light must be installed in all attics used for storage.

HVAC: A receptacle and light is required in all attics containing HVAC equipment.

BATROOMS: Wall switched light fixture required.

KITCHENS: Wall switched light fixture required.

STAIRWAYS: Light fixture required switched at top and bottom of stairs.

HALLWAYS: Wall switched light fixture required.

GARAGES: Wall switched light fixture required.

DOORWAYS: Light fixture required at each exterior doorway.

OTHER: Bedroom, living rooms, etc. may have switched receptacle instead of light.

RANGE: Ranges require a 4-wire circuit, 4-wire receptacle, and 4-wire cord.

DRYER: Ranges require a 4-wire circuit, 4-wire receptacle, and 4-wire cord

SUB PANEL: Sub panels require a 4-wire supply with a separate ground buss at sub panel.

LENGTH: 8-feet long minimum.

GALVANIZED: Galvanized ground rods must be 5/8" minimum diameter.

COPPER: Copper ground rods must be 1/2" minimum diameter.

PIPE: Galvanized pipe ground rods must be 3/4" minimum diameter.

CLAMP: Ground clamps at, or below grade, must rated for below ground use.

DEPTH: Ground rods must be driven full depth into earth.

GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) protection is a system that shuts down the

protected electric circuit -- opens it -- when it senses an unexpected loss of power,

presumably to ground. GFCI protection devices constantly monitor and compare the

amount of power flowing from the panel on the hot or phase wire and the amount

returning on the neutral wire. Any time the returning power drops even slightly below the

amount being supplied, the protection device will trip and open the circuit.

A GFCI is the only protection device designed to protect people against

electric shock from an electrical system. Because of this, we need to understand what a

GFCI is, how it works, and its limitations.

The first requirement for GFCI protection appeared in the National Electrical Code

(NEC) in 1971 and became effective January 1, 1973. The requirement only included

exterior receptacles and swimming pool circuits. The rest were added over the next

twenty years. Wet bars, the latest addition, were first included in the 1993 NEC.

We need only to look to the NEC for the definition of a GFCI. The NEC defines it as "a

device intended for the protection of personnel that functions to de-energize a circuit or

portion thereof within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds

some predetermined value that is less than that required to operate the over current

protective device of the supply circuit."

A GFCI protection device operates on the principle of monitoring the imbalance of

current between the circuit's ungrounded (hot) and grounded (neutral) conductor. It does

not monitor the grounding conductor, and so it will still operate in a circuit without a

ground. GFCI devices, including receptacles and circuit breakers, work by passing both

the hot wire and the neutral wire through a sensor - such as a differential transformer -

and connecting the sensor to a solenoid or relay that opens switch contacts built into the

power conductors inside the device.

GFCIs are designed to protect us against a ground fault, which is an unintended loss of

power to ground -- possibly through a person. The regular grounding system protects the

equipment that is attached (or plugged in) to the circuit against a ground fault in it. GFCI

devices are designed to protect people, not equipment.

In a typical 2-wire circuit, the current returning to the power supply will be equal to the

current leaving the power supply (except for some small leakage). If the difference

between the current leaving and returning through the current transformer of the GFCI

protection device exceeds 5mA (5 milliamps), the solid-state circuitry opens the

switching contacts and de-energizes the circuit. This will always happen as long as the

GFCI is in working order. However, GFCIs fail more often than most people think and

when a GFCI protection device fails, the switching contacts remain closed, and the

device continues to provide power - but no protection.

According to a study conducted by the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI)

published in IAEI News, November/December 1999, 21% of GFCI circuit breakers and

19% of GFCI receptacles tested did not provide GFCI protection. Yet, the circuit

remained energized! In the examined cases, failures of the GFCI sensing circuits were

mostly due to damage to the internal transient voltage surge protection that protect the

GFCI sensing circuit. This damage resulted from voltage surges from lightning and other

transients. In areas of high-lightning activity, such as Southwest Florida, the failure rate

for GFCI circuit breakers was more than 57%.

One final thought on GFCI protection: Press the test feature of the GFCI protection

device to ensure it works. These are excellent devices when properly wired. However,

never assume a GFCI protection device is operational unless you test it!

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR HOMES CONSTRUCTED PRIOR TO 1971

If you are living in a home built before the introduction of GFCI, it is recommended that

you hire a certified, licensed electrician to replace the non-GFCI receptacle outlets with

GFCI-protected types in the locations listed below. The cost of replacing existing non-

GFCI receptacle outlets is minimal compared to the safety they provide.

Receptacle outlets are required to be GFCI-protected in the following locations:

• Kitchen counter tops

• Bathrooms

• Within 6-feet of a wet bar sink

• Unfinished rooms in the basements used ONLY for storage and work area

• Garages

• All outdoor receptacle outlets

• Crawl spaces

• Rooftops

• Swimming pools

• Spas or hot tubs

General Maintenance Advice

Upon taking ownership

After taking possession of your home, there are some maintenance and safety issues that should be addressed immediately.  The following checklist should help you undertake these improvements:

•      Change the locks on all exterior entrances, for improved security.

•      Check that all windows and doors are secure.  Improve window hardware as necessary.  Security rods can be added to sliding windows and doors.  Consideration could also be given to a security system.

•      Install smoke detectors on each level of the home.  Ensure that there is a smoke detector in all sleeping areas.  Replace batteries on any existing smoke detectors and test them.  Make a note to replace batteries again in one year.

•      Create a plan of action in the event of a fire in your home.  Ensure that there is an operable window or door in every room of the house.  Consult with your local fire department regarding fire safety issues and what to do in the event of fire.

•      Examine driveways and walkways for trip hazards.  Undertake repairs where necessary.

•      Examine the interior of the home for trip hazards.  Loose or torn carpeting and flooring should be repaired.

•      Undertake improvements to all stairways, decks, porches and landings where there is a risk of falling or stumbling.

•      Review you home inspection report for any items that require immediate improvement or further investigation.  Address these areas as required.

•      Install rain caps and vermin screens on all chimney flues, as necessary.

•      Investigate the location of the main shut-offs for the plumbing, heating/cooling, and electrical systems. 

Regular maintenance

Every month

•      Check that fire extinguisher(s) are fully charged.  Re-charge if necessary.

•      Examine heating/cooling air filters and replace or clean as necessary.

•      Inspect and clean humidifiers and electronic air cleaners.

•      If the house has hot water heating, bleed radiator valves.

•      Clean gutters and downspouts.  Ensure that downspouts are secure and that the discharge of the downspouts is appropriate.  Remove debris from window wells.

•      Carefully inspect the condition of shower enclosures.  Repair or replace deteriorated grout and caulk.  Ensure that water is not escaping the enclosure during showering.  Check below all plumbing fixtures for evidence of leakage.

•      Repair or replace leaking faucets or shower heads.

•      Secure loose toilets, or repair flush mechanisms that become troublesome.

Spring and Fall

•      Examine the roof for evidence of damage to roof coverings, flashings and chimneys.

•      Look in the attic (if accessible) to ensure that roof vents are not obstructed.  Check for evidence of leakage, condensation or vermin activity.  Level out insulation if needed.

•      Trim back tree branches and shrubs to ensure that they are not in contact with the house.

•      Inspect the exterior walls and foundation for evidence of damage, cracking or movement.  Watch for bird nests or other vermin or insect activity. 

•      Survey the basement and/or crawl space walls for evidence of moisture seepage.

•      Look at overhead wires coming to the house.  They should be secure and clear of trees or other obstructions.

•      Ensure that the grade of the land around the house encourages water to flow away from the foundation.

•      Inspect all driveways, walkways, decks, porches, and landscape components for evidence of deterioration, movement or safety hazards.

•      Clean windows and test their operation.  Improve caulking and weather-stripping as necessary.  Watch for evidence of rot in wood window frames.  Paint and repair window sills and frames as necessary.

•      Test all ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) devices.

•      Shut off isolating valves for exterior hose bibs in the fall, if below freezing temperatures are anticipated.

•      Test the Temperature and Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve on water heaters.

•      Inspect for evidence of wood boring insect activity.  Eliminate any wood/soil contact around the perimeter of the home.

•      Test the overhead garage door opener, to ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is responding properly.  Clean and lubricate hinges, rollers and tracks on overhead doors.

•      Replace or clean exhaust hood filters.

•      Clean, inspect and/or service all appliances as per the manufacturer's recommendations.

•      If the dryer vent terminates through the roof, inspect and clean out excess lint from vent piping.

Annually

•      Replace smoke detector batteries.

•      Have the heating, cooling and water heater systems cleaned and serviced.

•      Have chimneys inspected and cleaned.  Ensure that rain caps and vermin screens are secured.

•      Examine the electrical panels, wiring and electrical components for evidence of overheating.  Ensure that all components are secure.  Flip the breakers on and off to ensure that they are not sticking. Test all arc fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) devices.

•      If the house utilizes a well, check and service the pump and holding tank.  Have the water quality tested.  If the property has a septic system, have the tank inspected (and pumped as needed).

•      If your home is in an area prone to wood destroying insects (termites, carpenter ants, etc.), have the home inspected by a licensed specialist.  Preventative treatments may be recommended in some cases.

Foundation Maintenance

Most of the North Texas area soil is expansive type clay. Therefore proper care of the foundation is very important in reserving the overall integrity of the home. Clay soils in North Texas have the ability to expand (wet) and contract (dry) at very alarming rates. This requires that an even and rather constant level of moisture be maintained around the entire home. Defects in the foundation and structure occur when the home does not move as an entire unit. This could occur for example when one area around the foundation is continually wet while another area remains dry. A home owner can significantly reduce the rate of differential settlement by observing the following recommendations:

1. Try to maintain constant moisture content in the soil around the foundation (about 1 to 2 inches of water a week to include rain). Water the soil evenly and around the entire foundation during extended dry periods. This should prevent a gap from opening between the soil and foundation edge. However, if a gap does appear, water frequently (at least daily) around the entire foundation during extended dry periods (6 to 7 days in the summer). Do not apply water directly into the gap. Instead, water 1 to 2 feet away from the foundation edge. Some homeowners choose to install a fully automated foundation watering system to eliminate the need to remember to water. It is best to add water about three times per day to insure that the applied water has time to soak into the soil.
2. Cut and cap the roots of any large trees growing closer to the foundation than the mature height of the trees. The roots from a large tree or several medium size trees can consume more water from the soil than can be added with a watering system. This will limit the consumption of water from the soil below the foundation and may prevent excessive differential settlement and cracks in the structure. It is recommended that a professional tree expert be used to prevent damage to the trees. When a tree grows too close to a building to allow cutting and capping of the roots, it is advisable to remove the tree or make special provision for watering the soil below the foundation.
3. Properly grade the soil by filling in low spots and leveling off high spots adjacent to the foundation so that the surface of the soil slopes gradually away from the building. A recommended slope is 1 inch per foot for a distance of 5 to 6 feet from the foundation.
4. Control roof water runoff and help prevent soil erosion by using a gutter and downspout system. This is especially important if a building has no eaves which overhang the walls or if the eaves are less than 1 foot wide. The gutter downspouts should be installed to discharge the roof water runoff at least five feet from the foundation.
5. Water trees and shrubs growing near a building during extended dry periods as they cause shrinking of the soil due to their high water consumption. Keep in mind that moderate to large trees consume 50 to 75 gallons of water from the soil every day.

CARBON MONOXIDE INFORMATION

What is carbon monoxide (CO) and how is it produced in the home?

CO is a colorless, odorless, toxic gas. It is produced by the incomplete combustion of solid, liquid and gaseous fuels. Appliances fueled with gas, oil, kerosene, or wood may produce CO. If such appliances are not installed, maintained, and used properly, CO may accumulate to dangerous levels.

What are the symptoms of CO poisoning and why are these symptoms particularly dangerous?

Breathing CO causes symptoms such as headaches, dizziness, and weakness in healthy people. CO also causes sleepiness, nausea, vomiting, confusion and disorientation. At very high levels, it causes loss of consciousness and death.

This is particularly dangerous because CO effects often are not recognized. CO is odorless and some of the symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to the flu or other common illnesses.

Are some people more affected by exposure to CO than others?

CO exposures especially affect unborn babies, infants, and people with anemia or a history of heart disease. Breathing low levels of the chemical can cause fatigue and increase chest pain in people with chronic heart disease.

How many people are poisoned from CO each year?

Nearly 5,000 people in the United States are treated in hospital emergency rooms for CO poisoning; this number is believed to be an underestimate because many people with CO symptoms mistake the symptoms for the flu or are misdiagnosed and never get treated.

How can production of dangerous levels of CO be prevented?

Dangerous levels of CO can be prevented by proper appliance maintenance, installation, and use:

Maintenance:

•·         A qualified service technician should check your home's central and room heating appliances (including water heaters and gas dryers) annually. The technician should look at the electrical and mechanical components of appliances, such as thermostat controls and automatic safety devices.

•·         Chimneys and flues should be checked for blockages, corrosion, and loose connections.

•·         Individual appliances should be serviced regularly. Kerosene and gas space heaters (vented and unvented) should be cleaned and inspected to insure proper operation.

•·         CPSC recommends finding a reputable service company in the phone book or asking your utility company to suggest a qualified service technician.

RECOMMENDED SCHEDULES FOR FIRE BURNING HEATING SYSTEMS

Installation:

•·         Proper installation is critical to the safe operation of combustion appliances. All new appliances have installation instructions that should be followed exactly. Local building codes should be followed as well.

•·         Vented appliances should be vented properly, according to manufacturer's instructions.

•·         Adequate combustion air should be provided to assure complete combustion.

•·         All combustion appliances should be installed by professionals.

Appliance Use:

Follow manufacturer's directions for safe operation.

•·         Make sure the room where an unvented gas or kerosene space heater is used is well ventilated; doors leading to another room should be open to insure proper ventilation.

•·         Never use an unvented combustion heater overnight or in a room where you are sleeping.

Are there signs that might indicate improper appliance operation?

Yes, these are:

•·         Decreasing hot water supply

•·         Furnace unable to heat house or runs constantly

•·         Sooting, especially on appliances

•·         Unfamiliar or burning odor

•·         Increased condensation inside windows

Are there visible signs that might indicate a CO problem?

Yes, these are:

•·         Improper connections on vents and chimneys

•·         Visible rust or stains on vents and chimneys

•·         An appliance that makes unusual sounds or emits an unusual smell

•·         An appliance that keeps shutting off (Many new appliances have safety components attached that prevent operation if an unsafe condition exists. If an appliance stops operating, it may be because a safety device is preventing a dangerous condition. Therefore, don't try to operate an appliance that keeps shutting off; call a service person instead.)

Are there other ways to prevent CO poisoning?

Yes, these are:

•·         Never use a range or oven to heat the living areas of the home

•·         Never use a charcoal grill or hibachi in the home

•·         Never keep a car running in an attached garage

Can Carbon Monoxide be detected?

Yes, carbon monoxide can be detected with CO detectors that meet the requirements of Underwriters Laboratories (UL) standard 2034.

Since the toxic effect of CO is dependent upon the CO concentration and length of exposure. A long-term exposure to a low concentration can produce effects similar to short term exposure to a high concentration.

Detectors should measure both high CO concentrations over short periods of time and low CO concentrations over long periods of time - the effects of CO can be cumulative over time.  The detectors also sound an alarm before the level of CO in a person's blood would become crippling.  CO detectors that meet the UL 2034 standard currently cost between $35 and $80.

Where the detector should be installed?

CO gases distribute evenly and fairly quickly throughout the house; therefore, a CO detector should be installed on the wall or ceiling in sleeping area/s but outside individual bedrooms to alert occupants who are sleeping.

Aren't there safety devices already on some appliances? And if so, why is a CO detector needed?

Vent safety shutoff systems have been required on furnaces and vented heaters sine the late 1980s. They protect against blocked or disconnected vents or chimneys.  Oxygen depletion sensors (ODS) have also been installed on unvented gas space heaters since the 1980s. ODS protect against the production of CO caused by insufficient oxygen for proper combustion.  These devices (ODSs and vent safety shutoff systems) are not a substitute for regular professional servicing, and many older, potentially CO-producing appliances may not have such devices. Therefore, a CO detector is still important in any home as another line of defense.

Are there other CO detectors that are less expensive?

There are inexpensive cardboard or plastic detectors that change color and do not sound an alarm and have a limited useful life. They require the occupant to look at the device to determine if CO is present. CO concentrations can build up rapidly while occupants are asleep, and these devices would not sound an alarm to wake them.

For additional information, write to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Washington, D.C., 20207, call the toll-free hotline at 1-800-638-2772, or visit the website http://www.cpsc.gov

I thought I would share some information every homewoner and professional in the real estate business should be aware of.

Automatic garage door openers that do not automatically reverse should be repaired or replaced with new openers which do reverse to prevent young children from being seriously injured under closing garage doors. Homeowners should periodically check the condition and operation of their garage door and the opener. A properly operating garage door will be "balanced." This means that the door will stay in place when stopped in any partially opened position. A severely unbalanced garage door could unexpectedly crash to the floor possibly striking someone under the open door. To check the garage door, the garage door opener must be detached from the door while in the closed position. On most openers, a "quick-release" mechanism is provided which permits the opener to be detached from the door. To avoid injury, homeowners should be careful when manually operating the door not to place hands or fingers between door sections or near pulleys, hinges, or springs. The door should not stick or bind when opened or closed. If doors are not "balanced," or if they bind or stick; they should be serviced by a professional. Once the garage door is operating properly, homeowners should check to see that the garage door opener's force and limit settings are adjusted according to manufacturer's instructions. Check the garage door operator owner's manual for any instructions on testing the safety features. One quick test is to place a 2x4 on the floor of the garage in the door's path. If the door does not properly reverse on striking the 2x4 then the garage door opener should be disengaged until the unit is either adjusted according to the instructions in the owner's manual, repaired, or replaced with a new garage door opener. A professional garage door service should be contacted if the homeowner is not comfortable with performing these tests, repairs and adjustments.

Homeowners should note that not all devices that open and close the garage door are necessarily safe. Some old openers are equipped with a mechanism that only stops the closing door when it strikes an object, not reversing the door in the process. Other openers have a device intended to reverse the closing door when it strikes an object, but for reasons related to age, installation and maintenance, these products may not be safe enough to prevent injury of a child. These openers cannot be adjusted or repaired to provide the automatic reversing feature found on later devices. The CPSC requires that all garage door operators manufactured or imported after January 1, 1993, for sale in the United States be outfitted with an external entrapment protection system. This system can be an electric eye, a door edge sensor, or any other device that provides equivalent protection. If an electric eye is used, it should be installed at a height of 4 to 6 inches above the floor. Homeowenrs should inspect garage doors and operation of the door opener every 30 days to verify that the system is functioning properly. Hardware and fittings should be checked to keep the door on track at all times. Should a hazard exist, homeowners should disconnect the automatic opener from the door as specified in the owner's manual, and manually open and close the garage door until needed repair/replacement is completed. Lastly, homeowners should relocate the wall switch in the garage as high as practical above the floor in an effort to restrict children's use of the automatic garage door. Remote control door operating devices should be kept locked in the car and away from children.

I have come to understand that as a home inspector and I am also an educator of the public.

I inspected another 1950's home today that had two prong outlets throughout the home. I spent quite a bit of time explaining to the client and agent about two prong outlets. I just wanted to share with the community that two prong outlets are not a hazard but are considered substandard and it would be beneficial to upgrade these outlets. Ideally the installation of a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) will protect against shock. The GFCI will not ground the circuit but provides protection by shutting off the circuit. The lack of a grounding conductor will limit the use of certain appliances and dedicated circuits may have to be installed to properly use these appliances.

The National Electrical Code (NEC) has acceptable ways to improve these outlets. I have attached a simple diagram from the NEC and the acceptacle ways to replace a two prong outlet.

I had a 1960's home today that had a FPE panel with Stab-Loc breakers and spent alot of time explaining to the client and to the realtor about the concerns for these panels. Realtor told me that she has sold quite a few homes of this age and has never heard about these panels. So I thought I would just post a little information for you and to also let you know that there is quite a bit of more information you can find on the web.

FEDERAL PACIFIC OR FPE STAB-LOC PANEL BOXES

Electric panels, in and of themselves, typically do not cause any problems. It is the electric components or appliances that typically cause problems such as a short in an appliance, an electric outlet, or a light switch. Electric panels and circuit breakers are designed to prevent personal injury and property damage in the event of a short or other problem by shutting down the electric current to the faulty appliances or electrical components. The fact that there have not been any problems simply means that the wiring, switches, outlets, and the appliances using the wiring, switches, and outlets have not had any problems at this time. If anything ever does have a short or other problem, one can not guarantee that the circuit breakers installed a Federal Pacific Electrical (FPE) Stab-Loc panel will shut off the electric current to the appliances or electrical components.

Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) was a popular manufacturer of panel boards and circuit breakers for many years. There is a lot of information about the hazards of Federal Pacific or FPE Stab-Loc circuit breaker panels. There are convincing arguments that the panel boxes are a fire hazard. Unfortunately, there does not seem to be supporting evidence from any government agency or regulatory authority stating that these panels are unsafe and should be replaced. There has not been a recall by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Even many electricians are in disagreement and you will find varying opinions.

The following has been said about Federal Pacific Electric or FPE Stab-Loc panels:

The circuit breakers may fail to trip in the case of an overload or short-circuit. A circuit breaker that fails to trip could cause a fire or personal injury. The problem with these panels is that some double pole 220-volt circuit breakers and quite possibly some single pole 120-volt circuit breakers may not trip. There are published reports of some tests conducted on FPE two pole 220-volt circuit breakers indicate that under certain conditions one pole may attempt to trip the breaker. The result is a circuit that remains live and a circuit breaker that has been compromised and when reset will not trip again under any excessive load. These panels would appear to work perfectly during normal operation allowing electricity to flow without any problems or symptoms. The CPSC did conduct product testing of these breakers and found that their failure rates were significant. The advice of the CPSC concerning these panels is for consumers to avoid overloading circuits and to turn off and have examined any devices that are causing the circuit breakers to trip.

If you have one of these FPE Stab-Loc panels or intend to purchase a home that has one of these FPE Stab-Loc panels, it is advised that you research these panels, consult with an electrician, and the local fire marshal. As stated previously, you may find that there is no clear consensus.

In addition, this might not be considered a "repair" relative to a real estate contract and it could be argued to be an improvement, which is a topic all parties will need to decide upon.

A heat pump is essentially a reverse cycle air conditioner. It can move heat from indoors to outdoors, or it can do the opposite, and extract heat from the outdoor environment to heat the interior. With a traditional split system furnace and AC, the indoor unit is referred to as the evaporator coil and the outdoor unit as the condensing coil. With heat pumps, the function of each coil depends on the operation mode of the system, heating or cooling. When the system is in cooling mode, the functions are the same as with a straight cooling split system. In heating mode, the indoor coil becomes the condenser and the outdoor coil is the evaporator. Therefore, with heat pumps the coils are simply referred to as indoor and outdoor.

The most common type of heat pump is one that transfers heat from air to air. Other types of heat pumps are water source and ground source. The outdoor coil of a water source heat pump could be in the bottom of a lake or pool. This article will focus on the most common type of heat pump, air to air. Heat pumps include additional equipment that is not found in cooling only split system units. The outdoor unit contains an accumulator and a reversing valve which are not found in split system AC units. The indoor air-handler of a heat pump is often accompanied by electric strip heaters. Heat pumps also contain a filter-drier to prevent contaminates from flushing through the system.

The reversing valve is the key component that determines the mode of operation of a heat pump. It contains a piston or slide that is activated by a solenoid, and four pipes. The direction of refrigerant from the compressor does not change. The high pressure line from the compressor enters the reversing valve, which determines whether the indoor or the outdoor coil will act as the condenser. In one position, the valve will direct the high pressure line to the outdoor unit, and in another position, it will direct the high pressure line to the indoor unit. The pipe in the center is the suction line that returns to the compressor, and depending on the position of the valve it is connected to the pipe from either the indoor or outdoor coil.

Heat pumps have a suction line accumulator to prevent liquid refrigerant from entering the compressor. In heating mode, the outdoor coil (functioning as an evaporator) might not be able to fully vaporize the refrigerant. The accumulator collects the liquid refrigerant and protects the compressor. It is a large cylinder that can be found near the compressor. Because these components must be matched with the particular compressor type and size of the system, a traditional split-system condenser cannot successfully be field-modified to convert it to a heat pump.

A heat pump inspection involves the same procedures as AC inspections, except that the heat pump need only be tested in one mode - if it works in heating mode it will work in cooling mode. If the inspection takes place on a cold day, it should be tested in heating mode, and on a warm day, in cooling mode. The only item that would be tested by operating it in both modes during an inspection would be the reversing valve itself. When a heat pump is tested in heating mode, the sensible temperature of the air from the registers might feel cool, because it will be less than body temperature. The air temperature might be in the 80's or low 90's. Though it feels cool to the touch, air at such temperatures will warm the house.

As the outdoor temperature drops lower, two other factors come into play with heat pumps. The balance point of a heat pump is the point where the outdoor temperature has dropped so low that the heat pump cannot supply the conditioned space with sufficient heat. At that time, supplemental strip heaters are activated to supply electric-resistance heat indoors. Some heat pumps are designed with a gas or oil furnace as the backup heating mode, though strip heaters are much more common. Strip heaters are sometimes arranged so as to come on in stages, depending on the conditions at the time of use.

During extreme cold weather or a large difference between the thermostat setting and the room temperature, all the strip heaters will activate. Heat pumps also might experience icing of the outdoor coil during the heating mode. When this occurs, the heat pump goes into defrost mode by reversing direction. During such time, the system is trying to provide cool air to the interior, so the supplemental electric resistance heaters will activate to maintain a warm air flow.

Heat pump thermostats will typically have an "emergency heat" setting. In such a mode, the electric strip heaters will be turned on and override the other settings of the system. During emergency heat mode, the air from the registers will feel warmer than in ordinary heating mode. When testing a heat pump in heating mode, inspectors should be careful not to turn the thermostat too high, or they may activate the emergency heat and not be able to accurately test the heat pump function.

Heat pumps are far more economical than pure electric resistance heat. Electric heat generates 3.413 Btu's per watt. The efficiency of heat pumps is measured in terms of the coefficient of performance (COP) and will be at least twice that of electric resistance heat.

Almost all heat pumps include a crankcase heater to prevent excess migration of oil and/or liquid refrigerant to the compressor. If the unit has not been turned on for the required amount of time - typically 12 to 24 hours - the compressor could be damaged.

Inspectors encountering a heat pump where the breaker or switch is turned off should not operate the system.

Most heat pumps will have an air handler and a duct system. However, heat pumps can also be self contained units mounted in a wall (such as those found in hotels) or they could contain a wall-mounted indoor coil and blower with a separate outdoor coil and refrigerant tubing between the two (commonly marketed as "ductless" units).

Section P2803.1 of the International Residential Code for One and Two Family

Dwellings requires the installation of a combination Temperature/Pressure Relief Valve

(commonly referred to as a TPR valve) or a separate temperature relief valve and a

pressure relief valve on every water heater.

The purpose of the TPR valve is to provide an important safety mechanism that allows

for the immediate discharge of excess temperature and pressure that builds up inside

the tank as the water is heated. If not allowed to properly discharge, this excess

temperature and pressure will eventually cause the tank to explode.

Consequently, Section P2803.3 dictates that a TPR valve must discharge once the

pressure inside the tank reaches 150 psi (pounds per square inch).

Section P2803.4 specifies that the TPR valve must be installed within the top 6 inches of

the water heater tank in order to enable the valve to discharge at a temperature of no

greater than 210°F. As a result, any discharge piping must be rated to withstand at least

210°F to prevent melting and blockage of the TPR valve when discharged.

The presence of a functioning Temperature/Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve on a water

heater is extremely important. However, there are other factors to consider in ensuring

the protection of property and people who may be standing near the water heater when

the valve actually discharges. Namely, where does the scalding water or steam go once

the valve is allowed to discharge?

1) Improperly-Sized Discharge Pipe

Section P2803.6.1 requires that the TPR valve is fitted with a discharge pipe that

provides the same size opening as the valve outlet itself. This is a common defect that is 

strictly prohibitedbecause smaller discharge pipes restrict the flow of the pressurized water

released bythe valve. This creates a dangerous build-up of pressure at the point of discharge that

can cause the tank to explode.

2) Missing Discharge Pipe

The discharge pipe required in Section P2803.6.1 was never installed at all. This

normally occurs during replacement or initial installation of the water heater.This creates a dangerous

condition whereby the TPR valve will spray scalding steam or scalding hot water onto anyone (or

anything) that happens to be near the water heater when discharge occurs. When you

consider that the TPR valve discharges water at 210° F., serious injury or property

damage will result.

3) Improper Termination of the Discharge Pipe

Ideally, the TPR valve discharge pipe will be vented to the outside of the building where

the scalding water or steam can be discharged without posing a threat to people or

property. However, in many installations direct piping to the outside is not possible or is

deemed to be too costly to provide. Accordingly, Section P2803.6.1 does allow for the

discharge pipe to terminate inside a receptacle or drain pan as long as an air gap is

provided between the end of the discharge pipe and the top rim of the drain pan itself

without creating a hazard or potential cause of damage.

The Temperature/Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve serves an extremely important function

ensuring the safe and proper operation of the water heater. As a professional home

inspector, I encourage home owners to take the time and effort to identify and correct

them.

Consequently, the conditions presented in this article should be corrected immediately

by a qualified and licensed contractor.