Plumbing involves the installation, maintenance and alteration of piping, fixtures, appliances and accessories in connection with sanitary or storm drainage facilities, venting systems and public or private water supply systems. A plumbing system consists of three systems: (1) water supply (2) drain and waste disposal (3) mechanical, ample fixtures and equipment. Your inspector will inspect and operate all fixtures and run several gallons of water through the plumbing system, checking the overall condition of the system. Leaking pipes, dripping valves, clogged pipes, corrosion, reversed hot and cold water supplies, limited hot water or inadequate water pressure are all common ailments of a poor plumbing system. Remarks and recommendations will be made to correct problems found during inspection
Mechanical - Plumbing - Water Supply
The water supply to your home is one of the most important mechanical elements to your happy and safe enjoyment of the property you intend to purchase. The water supply can either be a public supply such as town water or private well system whether its a community or independently owned. It is very important to most homeowners to have both safe and adequate water to their homes. Each household typically uses several thousand gallons of water a month! Replacement of a water main or well system can be extremely expensive and should be considered carefully when evaluating your purchase. Old or undersized water supply piping can be a source of aggravation and health safety. Wells, which can only be evaluated on a limited basis by our inspection, require safe installation and often- ongoing maintenance. The type and condition of your water main or well could be an element easily overlooked without proper professional home inspection training and experience.
Mechanicals - Plumbing - Waste Disposal
Drain and waste disposal is simply transporting the drain water from sinks, baths, etc., and waste from toilets through a proper channel. These systems excluding the fixtures and piping are either private such as, cesspool or septic tanks, or they are public sewer systems. Public sewer systems are obviously not inspected, but the mechanical equipment delivering the waste or drain water to the main waste line from the home is. Private systems can only be inspected on a limited basis because of the buried nature of the system. It is crucial to know which type of system you have so your inspector can advise you on typical maintenance procedures. One of the key elements looked for when inspecting your waste and drain system is cross connections between this system and your drinking supply water. This can be a serious health hazard and very difficult to find.
Mechanicals - Plumbing - Mechanicals
The mechanical systems in plumbing include fixtures, piping and valves. Although operating fixtures to see if they're working is relatively easy, your inspector will do much more. While operating each fixture in your bathrooms and kitchen he will be considering the effects on the whole plumbing system including leaks, pressure, flow and quality of the existing installation. The piping and valve system of your new home must be in good working order. Old or improperly installed pipes are difficult to repair and often require expensive replacement. Only an experienced eye will pick up badly joined piping on a new installation of clean copper tubing, or consider the limitation.
If you have any questions about plumbing systems or home inspections give us a call
Make sure the ground around the foundation drops 1/2 inch for every foot as you move away from the foundation. The drop should be greater if water flows are heavy in that area. Make sure all concrete patios, walks, and driveways slope away from foundation. Keep gutters clean at all times. During the fall it is better to clean them several times rather than waiting until the end of the leaf season. Make sure the water is not coming down behind the gutters and that the gutters are properly sloped toward the downspouts. Also check that all support brackets and nails are securely in place. Downspouts should discharge water well away from the foundation. If there are any signs of a leak or damaged shingles or flashing, have the roof checked. Generally, if the roof is leaking and is more than 15 years old (with regular shingles), it may be more cost effective to have a new roof put on. Make sure all stairwell drains are clear of debris. Consider building a permanent roof over exterior stairwell to prevent debris and rain from getting into the stairwell. Test your basement sump pump. Make sure all culverts and exterior drains are free of debris.
If you have any questions about this or about home & pest inspections just give us a call
Is Your Home Physically Fit? To give your home a competitive edge when it's time to sell, make sure it is in good physical condition. This not only makes your home more attractive and desirable, it also simplifies the negotiation process when the time comes for the buyer's pre-purchase inspection. According to home inspection experts, approximately half the resale homes in the market today have at least one significant defect. Routine maintenance is the best way to prevent major, costly problems from developing in the first place. If you have been putting off those repairs, now is the time to make them.
A Home Seller's Check List Over the years, ASHI has identified a list of common problems that typically appear on buyer's home inspection reports. Early correction of these problems can increase a home's appeal and its selling price. It also sets the stage for a favorable home inspection report for the buyer, and thereby helps to expedite the sale. The following 6-point checklist can help you achieve these marketing goals
Check The Major Systems
1. CHECK THE MAJOR SYSTEMS after size, style, and location, a home buyer's primary concern is the condition of the home's basic structure and major mechanical systems. Most buyers do not want to invest a great deal of money correcting problems in such critical areas. A pre-listing home inspection of the visible and accessible home components can reveal most of these problems, and include recommended repairs, if needed, on the following major items: Roof structure and covering Foundation, basement, and/or crawl space Central heating and air conditioning systems Electrical system Plumbing system
2. MAKE MAINTENANCE IMPROVEMENTS A number of maintenance improvements are relatively easy and inexpensive to make, yet they can substantially improve a home's appearance, efficiency, and comfort. A professional home inspector may make helpful maintenance suggestions, such as: Trim trees and shrubs which touch or overhang the house Apply new caulking and weather stripping as needed around windows and doors Clean gutters of debris and leaves; repair or replace cracked or broken gutters, downspouts, and extensions to ensure proper drainage Replace bathroom caulk or grouting where necessary to prevent seepage and improve appearance Ventilate closed basements and crawl spaces, or install a dehumidifier, to prevent excessive moisture build-up Regrade soil around the foundation, as needed to keep water away from the house Replace dirty filters in the heating and air conditioning systems Have the heating and air conditioning systems professionally serviced Have chimneys professionally cleaned, and install chimney hoods or caps as needed. If you have any questions feel free to contact me and I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have.
When doing your Christmas cards this year, take one card and send it to this address. If we pass this on and everyone sends one card, think of how many cards these wonderful special people who have sacrificed so much would get.
A Recovering American Soldier c/o Walter Reed Army Medical Center 6900 Georgia Avenue,NW Washington , D.C. 20307-5001
Polybutylene is a form of plastic resin that was used extensively in the manufacture of water supply piping from 1978 until 1995. Due to the low cost of the material and ease of installation, polybutylene piping systems were viewed as "the pipe of the future" and were used as a substitute for traditional copper piping. It is most commonly found in the "Sun Belt" where residential construction was heavy through the 1980's and early-to-mid 90's, but it is also very common in the Mid Atlantic and Northwest Pacific states.
The piping systems were used for underground water mains and as interior water distribution piping. Industry experts believe it was installed in at least 6 million homes, and some experts indicate it may have been used in as many as 10 million homes. Most probably, the piping was installed in about one in every four or five homes built during the years in which the pipe was manufactured.
How to tell if you have Poly
Exterior - Polybutylene underground water mains are usually blue, but may be gray or black (do not confuse black poly with polyethelene pipe). It is usually 1/2" or 1" in diameter, and it may be found entering your home through the basement wall or floor, concrete slab or coming up through your crawlspace; frequently it enters the home near the water heater. Your main shutoff valve is attached to the end of the water main. Also, you should check at the water meter that is located at the street, near the city water main. It is wise to check at both ends of the pipe because we have found cases where copper pipe enters the home, and poly pipe is at the water meter. Obviously, both pipes were used and connected somewhere underground.
Interior - Polybutylene used inside your home can be found near the water heater, running across the ceiling in unfinished basements, and coming out of the walls to feed sinks and toilets. Warning: In some regions of the country plumbers used copper "stub outs" where the pipe exits a wall to feed a fixture, so seeing copper here does not mean that you do not have poly.
Will the pipes fail???
While scientific evidence is scarce, it is believed that oxidants in the public water supplies, such as chlorine, react with the polybutylene piping and acetal fittings causing them to scale and flake and become brittle. Micro-fractures result, and the basic structural integrity of the system is reduced. Thus, the system becomes weak and may fail without warning causing damage to the building structure and personal property. It is believed that other factors may also contribute to the failure of polybutylene systems, such as improper installation, but it is virtually impossible to detect installation problems throughout an entire system.
Throughout the 1980's lawsuits were filed complaining of allegedly defective manufacturing and defective installation causing hundreds of millions of dollars in damages. Although the manufacturers have never admitted that poly is defective, they have agreed to fund the Class Action settlement with an initial and minimum amount of $950 million. You'll have to contact the appropriate settlement claim company to find out if you qualify under this settlement.
If you have any questions about this or Home & Pest inspections fell free to give me a call.
It's not to early to be thinking about winterizing your home
Here's what Martin Home Inspection services recommends:
Attic/crawlspace -- As a general rule, if a home has less than 11 to 12 inches of insulation in the attic or crawlspace, it could probably use more. Use batt or blown insulation for best results. Check with a expert to determine the proper R-value of insulation for your home.
Water heater and hot water pipes -- Conserve heat and energy by swaddling your water heater with an insulation blanket kit or faced fiberglass insulation. Insulate hot water pipes with preformed foam pipe insulation sleeves if they pass through an unheated area or run under your home.
Seal leaks, cracks, openings in the home Windows -- Remove screens and install storm windows. If you don't have double pane insulated windows already.
Fireplace -- Make sure the damper closes as tightly as possible when a fire is not burning to minimize heat loss.
Draft-prone areas -- Zip up your home's winter coat by caulking, sealing and weather-stripping around all seams, cracks and openings. Pay special attention around windows and where siding or bricks and wood trim meet. Seal areas near electrical boxes and plumbing penetrations as well.
Ductwork -- Look for cracks or air leaks in ductwork.
Furnace filters -- Change forced air heating system air filters bi-annually. Make a clean break into winter with a fresh filter instead of using last year's used goods.
Air registers, baseboard heaters and radiators -- Regularly dusting off these heat sources will improve the energy efficiency of your home.
Ceiling fans -- To save energy during colder weather, activate the reverse setting on your ceiling fans to circulate hot air that rises to the ceiling and blow it back down.
Cool-season grasses -- Fertilize grasses such as ryegrass, fescue, and bluegrass in or before early November.
Bulbs -- Plant hardy bulbs in milder climates in the earlier part of November.
Vegetable and perennial beds -- Clean and prepare beds for next season's planting.
Leaves -- Rake and remove leaves left on the lawn to discourage disease.
Push mower, outdoor power equipment -- Perform annual maintenance before storing.
Lawn and garden equipment, patio furniture -- Store to avoid harsh winter elements.
Hoses, outdoor faucets and sprinkler systems -- Drain before season's first freeze. Cover outdoor spickets.
If you have any questions about home & Pest inspections please feel free to contact me.
My name is Shawn Martin. I am the new owner of Crosby Inspections. Tina has semi-retired. I am striving to do the exact same service that Tina has done for you and your clients over the years. The reports, phone numbers and e-mail address are all the same. So if there is anything I can to for you or your clients please fell free to call me anytime.
I have been inspecting residential property for almost 5 years
I am a certified ITA ( Inspection Training Associate)
I am certified by Washington State for Structural Pest Inspections WSDA (SPI)
Thinking about a change in my Home Inspection reporting style, Right now I use the Matrix deluxe Which is a (IRC carbon copy paper report binder) What I like about this folder is that it's tangelo it's in a 3 ring binder has side pockets for my business cards broachers and my pest inspection reports I also like that in comes with a little How to operate your home Manuel by Mr. Fit-it Tom Feiza. What I don't like about it is now that I am doing over 300 inspections a year it's a lot of overhead for just reports and the space to store my copies has taken over half of my garage. So I am thinking about converting to a PDF type of reporting system maybe something like ITA electronic reports I know I will lose the home owners manuel aspect of it but it would be a lot easier to do everything via E-mail. So all you Realtors that I am sure see many different styles of inspection reports I would love to hear your two cents. The same goes for all the inspectors on this site what works for you and why?
Thanks for reading hope to hear back from some of you
Like all electronic devices, GFCIs can be damaged or wear out, and may need to be replaced over time. Many consumers, however, don't check their GFCIs to verify they are working. And while the electrical receptacles in a GFCI may continue to function, the GFCI circuit may no longer work. As a result, the National Electric Safety Foundation (NESF) encourages a simple test once a month and after any violent thunderstorm. Whether you have a receptacle- type or circuit breaker-type GFCI, pushing the TEST button should turn off the power of the circuit. To test a receptacle-type GFCI: · Push the RESET button located on the GFCI to assure normal GFCI operation. · Plug a nightlight (with an ON/OFF switch) or other product (such as a lamp) into the GFCI and turn the product ON. · Push the TEST button located on the GFCI. The nightlight or other product should go OFF. · Push the RESET button again. The light or other product should go ON again. If the light or other product remains ON when the TEST button is pushed, the GFCI is not working properly and a certified electrician should be called in to assess the situation and, if necessary, rewire or replace the GFCI. Testing your circuit breaker GFCI: · Locate the circuit breaker box. · Verify that the breaker toggle is in ON position. · Press the TEST button on the circuit. · The toggle switch should snap to the TRIPPED position. · RESET and return the toggle to the ON position. Power will be restored. If the circuit breaker fails to trip when the test button is pressed, it must be checked by a qualified electrician immediately.
If you have any questions about GFCI's or HOME & Pest Inspections feel free to give us a call.
Why do I need Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs)?
GFCIs can help prevent electrocution. "Ground faults" are often the result of damaged appliance cords or consumers who use electrical products in wet environments, such as bathrooms or swimming pool decks. GFCIs detect any leakage of electrical current in a circuit that might be flowing through a person using an electrical device. When such a loss is detected the GFCI turns electricity off before serious injuries or electrocution can occur. There are three types of GFCIs. The most common receptacle type GFCI, is similar to a common wall outlet. Additionally, circuit breaker GFCIs are often used as replacements for standard circuit breakers and provide GFCI protection to all receptacles on that individual circuit. Temporary or "plug-in" GFCIs are frequently used in outdoor settings with electric tools, mowers, trimmers and similar devices. Temporary GFCIs should never be used as a permanent alternative to a regular GFCI.
If you have any questions about GFCI's or HOME & Pest Inspections feel free to give us a call.
Disclaimer: ActiveRain Corp. does not necessarily endorse the real estate agents, loan officers and brokers listed on this site. These real estate profiles, blogs and blog entries are provided here as a courtesy to our visitors to help them make an informed decision when buying or selling a house. ActiveRain Corp. takes no responsibility for the content in these profiles, that are written by the members of this community.
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