There are some inspectors today boasting of something to the effect of: "I’ve been an Inspector for over 15 years and I’ve done 7 thousand inspections."In Illinois Home Inspection only became licensed in 2003, so before that it was not very official or professional, and there were no legal rules to define what a home inspection was. 

You have to ask- What Regulations or basic standards were followed?, what kinds of “inspections” were performed and what really did they consist of?  It could be anything goes and the “inspector” could be anyone, so how much weight does that really hold? Some of those “inspections” were very likely simple checklists, of maybe a few areas, maybe just an exterior drive by. It was really just up to them, they could have also counted every time they went to a property to give an estimate on a construction job. Hey, you could do ten of those a day. How long would it take? 15 minutes?

Before licensing, unless they were part of an organization that certifies the individual and they were personally adhering to some kind of home inspection standard, it is meaningless and can’t be counted as an official inspection. THE ONLY WAY IT COUNTS FOR SOMETHING LEGALLY IN ILLINOIS IS IF IT’S A LICENSED INSPECTOR DOING A HOME INSPECTION ACCORDING TO STATE STANDARDS.

I am proud to say that I have been a legal licensed home inspector and have been a member of InterNACHI from the beginning, and I have performed my inspections according to the IL state standards and Nachi standards.

So when you hear talk about 20+ years as an inspector, ask them if they were at least certified by a professional organization and if they performed ALL of the inspections to a defined minimum standard.

A lot of times, you will see home inspectors pull up in a huge truck. Some may think that your not serious unless you drive a truck.

Ive had a suburban, two full size vans and a large 70s pick up. I really liked trucks more than cars.

I was thinking about getting a good 4 cylinder minivan with a large area for advertizing myself, but im actually pretty happy with my current inspection vehicle --- my black toyota corrolla.

Why?

WITH RADON GAS SCIENTIFICALLY PROVEN TO BE THE SECOND LEADING CAUSE OF LUNG CANCER (The FIRST is smoking) AND NUMBER ONE CAUSE OF LUNG CANCER FOR NON SMOKERS, I HAVE TO ASK;

Why is it taking so long for that message to be understood by the masses?

Have you noticed anyone down-playing the importance of radon testing?

Why would some one do that? Is there some loose talk of it being a scam??

A question for AGENTS alone: do you look at a radon test as an annoyance?

A fellow home inspector and i were discussing something confusing to us.

Why is it so common for a person who is buying a home to wait until there is only a day or two left on the contract grace period to find and obtain the services of a home inspector or a radon measurement???

Why is this so? Shouldn't a person choose his inspector shortly after DECIDING to buy a home??

So it begs the question....

Who is dropping the ball when advising the client through a home sale?

When a client says :  "so what do i do next?"  honestly... where do some unethical agents decide to insert " get a home inspector" ??

you guessed it right..  as late in the game as possible. Less chance of " killing the deal" 

Don't you think that maybe the best thing a Home buyer can do is choose their Inspector BEFORE choosing an agent or deciding what kind of home to buy?

 1) You avoid a potential conflict of interest-  (some agents prefer THEIR inspector for obvious reasons.)

     BTW - most people are able to choose their own dentist, doctors, mechanics, bankers and so on.

             You do not have to choose an inspector on the AGENTS list. It should be your choice alone.

             Inspectors are not sub contractors for RE AGENTS. Although some would have you believe they are.

 2) An inspector can help a person really understand some differences in home construction in order to make a wise choice when buying what is one of the biggest purchases of a life time.

        Sometimes i can overhear an agent saying something is  "This is in really good shape" , or otherwise paintng a nice picture- but they should not be trying to influence someone like that.

 3) Giving yourself time to make a wise choice is always going to benefit you. ( Don't let anyone rush you)

    Look for the Home YOU want, and the Inspector YOU feel comfortable with.  Don't BUY A HOUSE BECAUSE YOU FEEL IT IS YOUR ONLY CHANCE.. No matter what they say.  Don't be forced to choose an Inspector on a list. make your own list. Don't ever have to wonder if...

 4) A home Inspector does NOT benefit from the SALE OF THE HOME.  A home Inspector does not even approve or disapprove a home purchase. A Home Inspector inspects and reports on the present condition of the home.

     Here is a question.... If you were going to buy a plane or a boat or a car, why wouldn't you go FIRST to someone who makes it their business to know what your getting into?- (Instead of someone who WANTS TO SELL YOU SOMETHING ASAP.)

In closing, i will just say that i hope this really clicks with some of you folks out there and i will admit that i write this to help me out too. I don't solicit RE agents for referrals. I love word of mouth from satisfied clients.

To all the good ethical RE agents out there - there is no need to be offended by what i wrote above - just a few bad apples out there.( and they seem to get rich the fastest unfortunately)

Joe Tribuzio

TRIBUZIO HOME INSPECTION SERVICES inc.

Elmwood Park IL 60707

thishomeinspector.com

708 453 THIS

THE INVADING H20 PROBLEM

Sometimes the rain comes faster than the earth can drink it up. Before you know it the sewer system is becoming overwhelmed. Its pretty common place to have a flooded basement or at least sme seepage if you have a home that was built before they thought to take measures to water proof the foundation walls before back filling.

Many older homes will start to take on water in their basements, because after all back then, basements were not really intended as a living space more than they were just for storage or utilities. the faoundation walls were not water proofed nor were there vapor barriers or water proofing under concrete floor slabs.

Some of the ways water will come in are easy to deal with, but sometimes it can be difficult to diagnose and correct. Obtaining the help of a good Home Inspector can make a big difference.

You have seepage through ground water- as it rains and the water table rises it will find its way through a path of least resistance- say a crack or a gap along the wall  - the term for that is hydrostatic pressure. There are companies that can seal cracks with an injected epoxy, but some times the water finds another way in.

Sometimes you will notice that the leaks are more prominent where there are downspouts located on the exterior. If the downspouts are too close to the homes foundation (within 6 feet away) it can mean more dramatic leaking. Bad lot grading can make things even worse, of course.

 If you have a large tree close to your homes foundation it may cause large cracks that can let water in, or it can also cause clogging of your pipes (the small capillaries of the trees roots find their way to water through the connections in the piping). That's why it is recommended to have a plumber Rod out your waste pipes and also route a camera inside the length of pipe to look for damage or other problems like offsetting of a pipe connection due to odd settlement of the home for instance. That maintenance should be done once a year to every 2 years.

Another way water can enter is from clogged gutters. This condition may cause water to actually wick up the roof covering and possibly enter the walls. If there is a poorly installed flashing or no drip edge, it will be worse yet. That's when the dreaded mold issues can become prominent ,especially if there is continued dampness of the wood or other cellulose material that feeds molds. Clean those gutter regularly.

There is the possibility that local sewer systems do become overwhelmed and back up. Then there is actual waste water backing into the home- yuk. Not only does it smell but it can be unhealthy to breath the air - let alone coming into contact physically with it. Cleanup can be very unpleasant, and any belongings in the basement will be ruined - not to mention any finished walls that need to be torn out to avoid the possibility that biological substances will proliferate because of the the sewer water soaked insulation or drywall paper or paneling or what not.

WHAT CAN YOU DO ABOUT IT?

( At the very least) Some older homes have what a manual shut off / back flow preventer valve. You do have to be there to crank it shut before the water backs up. So if your not home, its not working. Of course now they make automatic mechanical and other advanced types of flood controls valves.  Note: You shouldn't use your homes plumbing when you close the valve or you could flood it your self. Also understand that, if  ANY valve is not maintained for a period of time they may not work well when called upon. My own home has a back-flow preventer valve that is damaged because the previous owner had not maintained it properly.

(GOOD) Some homes have a perimeter drain either inside the basement floor or outside of the foundation footing. These work well for seepage but sometimes they can become clogged with silt and become less helpful.  Many of the basement "water proofing" companies will install an interior perimeter drain tile system routed to a sump or ejector pump. In addition, they will use one  method or another to "seal" the walls and cracks to try to prevent leakage. Sometimes after all that, you still get water. Installing a footing drain is costly, but especially if it is an exterior footing drain tile system. When excavating around the exterior of your home, there is now an opportunity to seal the walls, greatly reducing ingress of water, but it is a pretty big job involving removal and re pouring concrete for side walkways and will not be cheap as it all very labor intensive and heavy machinery will be needed.

(BETTER)  Sump pumps can help keep basements dry - but not necessarily in a big storm that knocks the power out - unless there is a battery back up system in place. However- you must have the sump pump discharge routed in such a way that the pumped water will not just seep back in. Its becoming increasingly common for homes to have at least a sump pump if not a ejector pump as well (especially when a basement has a bathroom present.) Always use a battery back up system.

(BEST)  The most effective system is installation of a Overhead sewer system. This is a pretty costly system that removes the ability for the street sewer line to back into your home because there is no direct link. Basically, the waste from your home is pumped up and in to the municipal sewer system with the help of gravity. Of course a power outage will stop it from working unless there is a battery back up system present- highly recommended! 

p.s.-  always use a dehumidifier during the summer months to reduce condensation moisture problems.

BTW- Feel free to share your horror stories and what did work and what didn't work. Together we may win this war against wet basements..!

Our baby boy- Nico was born JAN 20 3:37am. My wife Kelli had a completely natural water birth at a birthing center, we were assisted by our wonderfull midwife Julie Marks

He was 8.7 and 20 inches at birth. Isnt he adorable?  What is he thinking about? I say probably the next breast feeding..,

What is the reason you havent tested your own home?

radon has been found in old homes, new homes, big homes, small homes in the city and in the suburbs, so what are you waiting for??  Well not to be a bummer, but i can tell you what you COULD expect...

It is KNOWN that Radon causes about 21,000 lung cancer deaths per year, this is according to the EPA’s
Assessment of Risks from Radon in Homes (EPA 402-R03-003).

OVER 37% of homes in the Chicagoland have levels at or above the Action Level of 4.0picoCuries per liter of air (pCi/l) set by the EPA and adopted by the state of Illinois.

Two radon decay products, Polonium-218 and Polonium-214, account for the majority of radiation exposure to the lungs.

BELIEVE IT!!!  BECAUSE IT IS DREADFULLY TRUE:

RADON CAUSES LUNG CANCER-- IT IS ONLY SECOND TO SMOKING AS A CAUSE OF LUNG CANCER---

BUT IT IS THE PRIMARY CAUSE OF LUNG CANCER FOR THOSE WHO HAVE NEVER SMOKED.

BUT DID YOU KNOW THAT ALZHEIMERS AND PARKINSONS MAY BE CAUSED BY RADON?

review this site for more : http://www.radonnews.org/pages/AlzeheimersParkinsons.html

( Here is  a quote from  the link above: "...When inhaled, radon gas accumulates in lipid tissue throughout the body with the highest concentration in the brain, bone marrow, and nervous system. Additionally, one-third of the inhaled radon decay products (radioactive particles produced when the gas decays) pass from the lungs into the blood stream indicating that the gas does not flow quickly in and out of the lungs, but lingers in the body." )

Remember- elevated radon gas levels can always be fixed- IT IS CALLED MITIGATION- and the cost can run anywhere from $900 to $2000.00- and it usually takes only a day to install the system- The system will actively reduce levels of radon in the home.

Why take that risk that you could be exposing your self and your family to a known cancer causing agent.

 THE ONLY WAY TO KNOW FOR SURE IS TO TEST!!!

A home should have , at least, a 100 amp service. Any homes that have 60 amp or less should be updated.

But if the oppertunity arises, the wise choice is to have 200 amp electrical service installed.

That will be sufficient to handle the present day needs of our electronics driven society.

Commonthings i have found lately whilst inspecting the electrical system:

* No  AFCI protection for bedrooms ( arc fault Circuit Interupters- help prevent shorts)

* Painted over GFCI RECEPTACLES that no longer work.

* loose in wall receptacles- often results in a bad grounding receptacle.

* miswired receptacles ( hot and neutral is reversed, ground and neutral is reversed etc.)

* missing knockouts in distribution panel and junctionboxes

* exposed wires, often live.

this is just a short list, theres often more wackyness.

 JOE