Certified Master Inspector

Exploding Water Heater

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Fri, 15 Aug 2008 22:06:45 -0500

Be sure to get your water heater inspected and pressure relief valve looked at.

This water heater exploded.

Also... see this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGWmONHipVo&feature=related

Online TV Infrared Training

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Wed, 25 Jun 2008 14:34:33 -0500

Thermal Imaging for Inspectors Course:

John McKenna, InterNACHI Infrared Trainer, and Ben Gromicko, Certified Master Inspector, teach you how to perform inspections with an infrared camera. John covers subject matter such as building science, IR camera applications, and image interpretation, while Ben takes you on a real inspection and demonstrates how to recognize defects related to moisture, insulation, structure, electric, air infiltration, and energy loss. Over 70 images of actual defects are interpreted. The course includes 69 pages (downloadable pdf) of course material (yours to keep), a 3-hour online video course (you can pause, rewind, and fast-forward), an online final examination, and a printable certificate of completion.

Take the "Thermal Imaging for Inspectors" course now ($199.95).

John B McKenna is a Certified Master Inspector serving the East Texas area. John has been licensed by the Texas Real Estate Commission (TREC) and approved by TREC as an inspector trainer. He has more than 25 years experience in the construction industry and is certified by the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI). He continues to update his yearly education and testing requirements. Visit his company website at www.texas-inspection.com, or call his office at 1-888-818-4838 (Toll Free) for more information.

Complete Home Inspection Service For Conroe, Lufkin, Bryan, Crockett, College Station, Livingston, Palestine, Nacogdoches, Athens, Jacksonville, Huntsville, Lake Palestine, Lake Conroe, Lake Livingston, Corsicana, Tyler, Texas.

A Consumers Guide To Infrared Thermography

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Fri, 02 May 2008 01:51:44 -0500

A Consumer's Guide To Infrared Thermography

Watch This TV Report

Infrared Thermal Imaging
Infrared imaging provides important information relating to otherwise inaccessible areas of a residential building. Infrared detects extremely small but crucial differences in temperature from one area of a house to another. These temperature variations show up on the camera’s view screen as “cold” or “hot” spots, which reveal hidden problems that often cannot be detected in the course of a traditional visual inspection.

These problems may include:

Faulty wiring, breakers and fuses

Hidden moisture intrusion

The moisture sources of mold

Pipe and duct work leaks

Roof and ceiling leaks

Heat/energy loss

Structural concerns

Missing insulation

Ventilation problems

Moisture associated with termite nests

Rats, mice and other pests

Why Perform Infrared Home Inspections?
Combined with traditional home inspection techniques, the infrared inspection method reveals substantially more of the house than can be perceived by the naked eye and conventional inspection tools. Many things can't be be seen with only a flashlight.

Realtors Pushing Infrared & Energy Inspection

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Tue, 25 Mar 2008 17:26:46 -0500

Realtors Pushing Infrared & Energy Inspection

Realtors Pushing For Infrared & Energy Inspection - Watch Video Now

Average Time To Sell Home = 28 Days

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 10:15:23 -0500

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE:
Keller Williams Realtor Speaks out on Listing Inspections

If you have tried getting your listing inspections going and are frustrated by REALTOR's being slow to respond, please come hear Matthew Thrift give you the facts and figures on how he is growing his real estate business with pre-inspections.His listings are only staying on the market an average of 28 days!

This workshop is free to all InterNACHI inspectors and lunch will be provided.

Please RSVP by Tuesday, April 8th by calling Stuart Tirkot or Marie Pritchett- toll free 877-577-4742

Friday, April 11 - Greenville, SC Workshop
11:30 a.m.
Advantage Inspection Corporate Headquarters
728 North Pleasantburg Dr.
Greenville, SC 20607
901-365-2575

The following is an excerpt from a letter we received from Matthew shortly after he started doing listing inspections.

19 Birkhall Circle - Received a ratified / accepted contract 20 days after listing! This is incredible.

I looked for anything that I could find that would set me apart from the other 2000 plus REALTORS in the Greenville market area. I am happy to say that it did not take me long to find exactly what I was looking for. With every listing I take I automatically order an Advantage Home Inspection and a Common Cents Pest Control Wood Infestation / Termite Inspection. These inspections are free to my clients and it has proven to be one of the best listing tools I have seen to sell a house.

For example: I listed a house on December 28, 2007 and between the 28th of December and the 22nd of January, I had 11 Showings and no offers. On Tuesday, January 22nd, I had the house inspected by Advantage Inspection and Common Cents Pest Control, and I asked the sellers if they would purchase an Advantage Home Warranty for a buyer, which of course they agreed. I am happy to say that between Wednesday, January 23rd and Sunday, January 27th I had eight more showings and I received an offer TWO days after inspection and had it accepted FOUR days after inspections.

And yes there is more:

On January 18, 2008 I listed a home in Bonnie Brae Subdivision where the average days on market are currently 83 days. On Tuesday, January 29th, I had the house inspected by Advantage Home Inspection and Common Cents Pest Control, and I asked the sellers if they would purchase an Advantage Home Warranty for a buyer, which of course they agreed. I am happy to report that on February 7th, 2008 (19 Days after listing and 9 days after inspections, I was able to inform my sellers that their home is under ratified contract.

Doing Real Estate a different way than everyone else has proven to be a key strategy. In both examples above, I asked the buyer's agent why their buyers chose my listing over others and their answers were inevitably the same...."Because everything was already done." One agent even stated to me, "You took the hassle and frustration out of the transaction!"

Pre-Inspections JUST MAKE SENSE!For changing my business and the way I do Real Estate for me to better service my clients!

Sincerely,
Matthew Thrift / Keller Williams

For those that want immediate, detailed information - please download our free interactive software that outlines our listing inspection platform, our Lowe's vendor partnership and our "no-denied claims" warranty.

Just click:http://info.advantageinspection.com:8088
Username = AdvantageInfo
Password = Info

Questions about downloading process - call Philip Lee toll free at 877-577-4742.

Advantage Inspection & Advantage Home Warranty are registered trademarks. Lowe's and the gable design are registered trademarks of LF, LLC.

Click For Pre Listing Guide

Infared Training Course

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Sun, 20 Jan 2008 12:54:45 -0600

See: Infrared-Certified.com

INFRARED TRAINING - $500

NEXT TELECONFERENCE COURSE

Next teleconference class - March 29-30 (toll free for USA & Canada). See calendar for more classes.

NEXT ON-SITE COURSE

Dates for the Texas, Tennessee and Colorado class will be announced shortly. See calendar for more classes.

Infrared Certified Training Course - Two Days - 16 Hours

Infrared Training Course

TITLE: "Thermal Imaging And Building Science"

This is an infrared training course intended to familiarize home inspectors with this new this new, non-destructive testing technology and its applications for building and home inspections.

1. What is thermal imaging?
2. The purpose of Thermal Imaging in Home Inspections.
1. Better Inspections
2. Decreased Liability
3. Additional Income form Ancillary Services
3. The Physics of Light
1. Electromagnetic Spectrum
2. Frequency
3. Color
4. Heat
4. The Physics of Thermal Imaging
1. Delta T
2. Emissivity, Reflectivity, Transparency
3. Thermal Mass
5. Different Types of Image Display
1. Black & White, Rainbow, Iron
2. Temperature Scales.
3. Adjusting temperature scales for a better image.
6. Applications for Home Inspection
1. Water Infiltration
2. Excessive Moisture in Materials
3. Electrical Inspection Applications
4. HVAC applications
5. Pipe Location
6. Pest Infestation
7. Energy Audit
7. Inspection Techniques
1. Exterior scanning.
2. Interior scanning.
3. Electrical scanning.
8. Report Writing, Marketing, Liability.
9. Building Science, Structure, Systems, And Defects.

Thermal imaging training will include testing and field assignments. All students will have personal interaction with the instructor.

No IR camera is required to take this thermal imaging training course.

Infrared Training

Thermal Imaging Video

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Wed, 05 Dec 2007 03:33:02 -0600

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

WATCH REPORT

Our State Of The Art Infrared Technology
Can Detect Hidden Problems In Your Home,
Through Thermal Images, Such as Electrical
Hot Spots, Moisture, Energy Loss, Plumbing
Leaks, Heat/AC System, & Many Other Defects
Not Visible To The Eyes. Plus We Bring 25
Years Of Construction Experience To Examine
The Entire House From the Foundation, Roof,
Insulation, Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors,
Electrical, Appliances, Plumbing, Drainage,
Heat/AC, Attic, Fire & Safety Issues, etc...
Plus We Inspect Water Wells, Septic, Pools,
Sprinklers, Boat Houses, Barns And More...

Call Toll Free 7 Days/Wk - 8am to 10pm

Email: info@texas-inspection.com

Automatic Garage Doors Openers: Hazard For Children

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Tue, 27 Nov 2007 08:52:13 -0600

Kriel RL, Gormley ME Jr, Krach LE, Luxenberg MG, Bartsh SM, Bertrand JR.

Department of Pediatrics, Hennepin County Medical Center, Minneapolis, MN 55415, USA.

OBJECTIVES: Despite significant advances in automatic garage door opener design, automatic garage door openers continue to severely injure or kill children. In this investigation, we sought to determine the frequency and circumstances of accidents that have caused severe injury or death to children. We also tried to develop a means by which homeowners can evaluate their door openers. METHODS: We present the histories of three children severely injured or killed by automatic garage door openers. We reviewed national data of similar accidents primarily published by the US Product Safety Commission and Underwriters Laboratories. Also, we evaluated 50 automatic door openers for safety of operation. The reversing mechanisms of door openers were tested using a cardiopulmonary resuscitation mannequin, a roll of paper towels, and a block of wood. RESULTS: In the United States, at least 85 children have had permanent brain injury or have died since 1974 as a result of accidents involving automatic door openers. A review of circumstances of the accidents illustrates that accidents are caused both by use of the openers by children and by faults in design. Most accidents have occurred when children have found access to the activation devices and have been entrapped under closing doors that failed to reverse. However, in one case, an adult activated the opener and left the premises before the door completely closed. Our evaluation of 50 garage door openers showed that although 88% percent reversed when encountering a block of wood, 40% failed to reverse when coming down on a supine, child-sized cardiopulmonary resuscitation mannequin. CONCLUSIONS: Automatic garage door openers pose a serious risk of severe injury or death to children. It is probable that many doors would not reverse if they came down on a young child. Therefore, we have devised a way for homeowners to test their door openers that closely mimics our evaluations using the mannequin by using a large roll of paper towels. If the door fails to reverse using this test, we suggest that homeowners disconnect their openers and operate the doors manually until the openers are serviced or replace their automatic openers with one that meets the latest Underwriters Laboratory standards. We also have other recommendations regarding the safe operation of the doors, including improving the safety standards for openers in apartment complexes. Compliance with these recommendations should reduce the number of injuries to children caused by garage door openers.

PMID: 8885959 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/sites/entrez?Db=pubmed&Cmd=ShowDetailView&TermToSearch=8885959&ordinalpos=18&itool=EntrezSystem2.PEntrez.Pubmed.Pubmed_ResultsPanel.Pubmed_RVDocSum

What To Expect from a Home Inspector

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Thu, 08 Nov 2007 12:58:29 -0600

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

The days of people asking their father-in-law to inspect a house before they buy it are over. Homebuyers now understand that there is a lot of money at stake and a certified home inspection is the only safe bet.

Despite this fact, however, there is still some uncertainty about what homebuyers can anticipate when they hire a certified home inspector. Here are some of the basics that homebuyers should expect from someone who has received professional home inspection training:

Standards of Practice: Good home inspectors will give homebuyers the standards they follow, either from the state or from a professional home inspection organization. They will then go over what will be included in the inspection. When the home inspection is over, the report should include a description of:

The property’s classification (age, size, location, condition)
What inspection methods were used (probing, visual, measurement and research)
Problem areas/deficiencies (the evidence doesn’t need to be conclusive)
The possible consequences of these problem areas
Unsafe areas that will require a third-party inspection

Limits: There are also a number of things a certified home inspector isn’t required to do. Those include: determining the market value of the property, offering any kind of warranties or guarantees, entering the under-floor crawl spaces, or inspecting detached structures other than garages or carports. These are just a few examples; clients should come prepared with their own questions.
Inspection Agreement: This is what home inspectors think of as their “contract” with homebuyers. After going through the standards of practice, the homebuyer’s expectations, the home inspector’s restrictions, and any other items unique to the situation, homebuyer’s must sign this agreement before the home inspection begins. The signed agreement should generally include:

Name of the certified home inspector
The property’s address
Date of the inspection
Date when repair work will be finished
Cost of the inspection and the method of payment
Information on dispute resolution resources

Finally, homebuyers shouldn’t expect a home inspector to assign blame for defects. Their job is to identify problems in the house, note them accordingly, but not to pass judgments.

This article courtesy Allied Home Inspection School

"Move In Certified" Homes

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Thu, 20 Sep 2007 22:59:14 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

WANT HELP SELLING YOUR HOUSE?
Keep Reading

#1 - Look At The Process From Another Point Of View

RECENT NEWS REPORT
Los Angeles Times: Pre Listing Inspections

#2 - Cover All Your Bases And Sell For More

Download - "Sell Your Home For More"

#3 - Why Do People Buy Pre Certified Vehicles?

Why Not Pre Certified Homes?

Pre Inspected And Ready
MoveInCertified.com

"The Inspection Report Can Increase The Value,

Not The Problems." (a wise seller)

MoveInCertified homes have been pre-inspected

by NACHI certified inspectors and the sellers

confirm that there are no major systems in

need of immediate repair or replacement

and no known safety hazards.

400 Points But No Cake

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Wed, 04 Jul 2007 01:40:41 -0500

I won 400 points but no Cake...?

Thermal Imaging

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Sat, 02 Jun 2007 08:02:42 -0500

Infrared Thermal Imaging
Infrared imaging provides important information relating to otherwise inaccessible areas of a residential building. Infrared detects extremely small but crucial differences in temperature from one area of a house to another. These temperature variations show up on the camera’s view screen as “cold” or “hot” spots, which reveal hidden problems that often cannot be detected in the course of a traditional visual inspection.

These problems may include:

Faulty wiring, breakers and fuses

Hidden moisture intrusion

The moisture sources of mold

Pipe and duct work leaks

Roof and ceiling leaks

Foundation cracks

Heat/energy loss

Structural concerns

Missing insulation

Ventilation problems

Moisture associated with termite nests

Rats, mice and other pests

Why Perform Infrared Home Inspections?
Combined with traditional home inspection techniques, the infrared inspection method reveals substantially more of the house than can be perceived by the naked eye and conventional inspection tools. Many things can't be be seen with only a flashlight.

Moisture In The Stucco Walls

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Mon, 07 May 2007 09:36:51 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

I did an inspection of a Condo unit with exterior stucco walls. The joints were bowing out, cracking and damaged spots noted. Found moisture (with meter and visible stains) in various location in the interior sheetrock. Then found some more moisture damage, stains and leaks in the walls next to the exterior steps.

Can we say "fungi-heaven"?

Then out walks the lady next door and we ask if her adjacent wall has any signs of moisture leaks (just thought I could use more info). She said "no, everything dry here"... So I asked her for permission to put the moisture meter on her wall also. Bingo... she has moisture in the wall too!!! She then told us that she was about to purchase this condo unit and she was glad to get the "heads up" before she bought the unit. She then said she was a major mortgage broker and would tell all her banker associates about me (thank you God). She had bad experiences with inspectors who worked for the local Realtors and wanted someone independent of the good ol boy network. I said... "I'm the right man, and I understand what your talking about."

It was a fun day. Then I walked inside and pulled out the water level with 50' hose. The slab had 1 3/8 drop in ten feet in the Din Rm. Not a good sign.

HOW MUCH DO YOU CHARGE?

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Sun, 29 Apr 2007 01:01:10 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Asking about the price of a home inspection is probably one
of the most common questions I get asked. Many people
assume that all inspectors are equal and the next best thing
is to find out which one has the lowest price. But the truth
is, not all Inspectors are equal. In fact many Inspectors have
extreme limitations and may not even realize it.

Becoming a home inspector has become a very popular
business that is advertised everywhere now a days. The
problem with reading some books and then being certified as
a home inspector is that this person can now have enough
knowledge to be dangerous. To the Consumer who is looking
for a quality home Inspection, a poor Inspector who cost
less, may do more damage than good.

Also, when you consider that most homes are prepped,
painted and prepared for "the sale"... does the book worm
Inspector know how to see past the facade of the cosmetic
beauty?

The trained eye of an experienced home Inspector will seek
to find problems that may exist beneath the surface and
not just take for granted that everything looks good.

Home Inspector's that rise above the rest will also have a
strong devotion to their Client based on a firm ethical belief
that they are to disclose all the facts, regardless of weather
or not the Realtor or others are happy with their findings.

An independent, experienced and thorough home Inspector
may find thousands of dollars of problems and potential
concerns that may be missed by others. As the saying goes
"you get what you pay for". Cheap is not always better
when it comes to something as expensive as the purchase
of a new home.

A quality home Inspector will want his Client present during
the inspection and will take the time to address all the
concerns that the Client has. The report will be written in
a itemized and easy to understand fashion to ensure the
Client is fully informed and not confused. This care and
attention to detailed quality is worth every penny, when
seeking to discover the all the details that are hidden in
the home.

My price for a home inspection is higher than some, but my
Clients tell me that it was well worth the money. I normally
do only one inspection a day and it usually takes 3-4 hours
or more to complete, plus the time to write the report.

Stress From Renovating Old Building

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Sat, 28 Apr 2007 01:11:33 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

I have seen some of my Clients start up a business in some old buildings in order to save money. What they did not realize were the hidden aspects of the repair process and the discovery was sometimes more than they bargained for.

When dealing with an old building, the chances of disturbing lead based paint and asbestos must be considered and dealt with properly... or there could be legal and health problems later.

The cost of undoing previous unprofessional repairs and upgrading to the acceptable standards that will make the local municipality happy for a commercial building needs to be verified very carefully.

Those areas where the moisture penetration problems have been only patched, year after year, may have caused some fungi-mold issues that cannot be seen under that pretty layer of paint and caulking. If you get a fungi-mold inspection, what will the health department make you do to repair the problem and what will your building be worth when try to put it back on the market for sale later? This gets touchy.

What you don't fix, will be still have to be disclosed to the next buyer by letting them see the inspection report you just did. If you try and hide the report, the truth may come out later and you can really suffer the loss of big dollars in court for be deceitful.

If you level the foundation, the pressure on walls, doors and windows can create a lot of movement and repairs that you may not be able to predict at this time.

Old galvanized plumbing has a limited life span. Old metal drain lines underground need replaced sooner or later. Is the electrical safe for the public to come into your place of business. The old electrical system is probably full of surprises and safety issues. Commercial standards are not the same as residential.

Is that old AC and Heating system about to go out? Just because it works today, you may need to budget for replacement if it is really old stuff.

How do you take the sag out of the old roof without creating new problems? Is there any insulation in the walls? Maybe... maybe not.

If your not used to the stress that renovating and repairing an old building can be on you, be careful. Don't buy on emotions today and then loose sleep later because your depressed as you are half way through the demolition and reconstruction process. Your going to hear lots of conflicting opinions and prices. Who should you believe? It can be very stressful if you have never been through this before.

Think about it and hire a quality Inspector before you make your move. Do your homework.

Recent Question About New Vs Old Construction

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Thu, 26 Apr 2007 23:01:43 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Question

Hi, I have a Q reg buying a home with some consideration of build date. I.e.; abstetos was banned in 79' I believe, lead paint same date. Do you have any opinion in other factors, such as quality of materials, earthquake laws for constructions that made homes made after a certain date more durable. I've heard a real estate agent say that she would not buy any home from the late 70's to the early 80's based on the (fact?) that during the gas crunch, housing materials were of a very cheap quality during this time. Opinions? I live in Los Angeles.

Answer:

Each house is different from the next. A builder who does quality work and uses quality materials could have built a wonderful home in the years you have mentioned. A brand new home built with poor quality and compromised materials might look nice but still is a poor structure. In other words, I have seen such a wide spectrum of quality and materials that I cannot make general assumptions just based on the date a house was built. Your concerns are good points and the more you know about these issues the more you can protect yourself from these problems. Here is a good rule of thumb to go by. If you buy an old house then you are going to inherit some issues and maintenance that does not come with most new homes. But the older home may not cost as much and therein is the temptation to buy the older house. Here are some examples of why it is hard to tell what you have until you have it inspected:

1 - Today's lumber is grown faster and dried faster than the old forest and processing methods. The new lumber therefore is weaker, most of the time, than the old lumber. It takes more braces to hold up and secure the new structure. But if done properly, the new house can be built to endure, even with the new and weaker lumber. Things are not what they appear.

2- You can build a huge concrete slab with tons of steel... but if you fail to prepare the site properly you can create major problems with the foundation. Things are not what they appear.

If you cover lead paint and leave the asbestos alone, it can be a non-issue most of the time. If you are exposed to lead paint and stir-up the asbestos then you can create some problems. There are other considerations with each environmental or construction concern (ie... radon gas, mold, termites, pollutants, earth quakes, re-called materials, unsafe electrical products, faulty fixtures, corrosion, decay, moisture penetration, etc...) Be sure to hire a qualified home inspector that is familiar with these issues and knows the building requirements for your local area. I cannot even begin to cover all the possible questions that could arise with an older home.

I am glad to see you are asking questions. You will be better prepared to go into the deal with your eyes open. Please go to my web site and click on the links that discuss some of these issues to learn more. There are tons of links on my web site that can help you with more detailed answers than what I can deal with hear. Please let me know if you have any concerns or questions.

Good Luck,

John McKenna

Soft Inspections Harm The Consumer

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Mon, 23 Apr 2007 22:04:21 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Should the Inspector educate the Client beyond just stating what
he can see? Yes. We should write the report to include education
about potential problems that may develop or that cannot be seen
by our visually limited inspection. Even at the risk of inflaming
fears in the process and the anger of Realtors. The Client needs to
loose their virginity about issues of concerns weather they like it
or not. Just to make them "feel good" is the sin you are saving them
from.

Example:

In Texas, it is required to list the foundation in "need of repair"
just for having water ponding near the foundation area. I would
also recommend explaining that moisture in the soil from the water
ponding areas can cause expanding pressure in the soil and
possible damage to the foundation in some cases.

Also it should be noted that Foundations on some soils require
adequate and even moisture around the perimeter to prevent
movement. An even watering program should be maintained
year-round. Trees and other foliage can sometimes cause
transpiration damage. Water should not be allowed to pond
or erode along sides of the foundation.

Even though there is no visible damage YET... it would be
negligent to omit this information to make everyone feel
good. It could be said that everything looks OK... but
the Inspector looks at things with a higher wisdom and
discernment.

The report that is written to educated and inform will make some
people think about issues that are more complex than they are
normally willing to deal with, but it is our duty to educated
and protect the Client, not help the Realtor soft sell the
report and make a commission on the sale.

One of the most common insurance claims are about poor
grading and drainage and the affect it has on a house and
foundation. Moisture is destructive in many way.

Every time I comment on a moisture stain I always include
the statement "moisture can be conducive to fungi-mold,
decay and wood destroying insects that may not be
visible by this inspection". The first time you get sued
for all the stuff that moisture can do to a house, you'll learn
to educate your Client and stop giving them soft and
easy words.

Every discrepancies related to the electrical system should be
considered as safety hazards. To not state this is to set
yourself up for big trouble. Who cares if the Realtors think
this is being too alarmist... it's the truth. It takes less
than 1 amp of electricity to kill a person. It happens all
the time.

A simple pile of leaves on the roof valley can create a leak
so fast it will make your house swim in mold in no time. It
is a big deal if not corrected ASAP and it needs inspected
by a Professional Roofer before closing. It happens all the
time.

"Soft words" hurt the Client in the end and sets up the Inspector
for a law suite. The Realtor will not even remember your name
when it hits the fan.

Keith Swift, PHD, said that doing a home inspection is like
walking through an unseen mine field and should be treated as
such. I agree with him and recommend that everyone read his
book "To Inspect And Protect".

Have your Heating System Inspected

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Sun, 22 Apr 2007 23:56:54 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Only about 30% of a home's heating system is reviewed by the local gas provider if they are called out for a seasonal start-up. This leaves 70% of the review of the heating system to the homeowner or possibly to untrained personnel.

Heater venting systems are a major concern every winter in every part of the country. During earthquakes, like the ones in Southern California, vent systems can become separated, especially the horizontal connector pipes associated with floor furnaces, allowing the potential for fire, or fumes to escape in unwanted areas possibly resulting in illness, fire or even death.

Floor furnaces can be dirty, prohibiting combustion air needed to allow for proper flame causing soot and the potential for aldehydes and allowing CO into the home.

If the property you are considering has a floor furnace be sure to ask the home inspector to fully review the vent system under the house.

Forced air heating units atop roofs may have loose or leaking gas lines A homeowner may not realize there is a problem even though there may be higher gas bills. Roof mounted units may have damaged supports or other related problems.

Forced air heating units mounted in closets can be another potential for problems. Units today are required to be secured and mounted over the return air hole and tightly sealed. If not properly placed and caulked this will interfere with the flow of natural combustion air affecting the flame and cause venting gases, or carbon monoxide, to flow into the home via the ducts. Some closets furnaces were found to have shifted up to four inches off the return air hole after the Southern California earthquakes. Heater compartment (or closet) doors need to be sealed and should latch tightly if the return air register is within 10 feet of the door. Upper and lower combustion air openings located inside the closet should be clear of debris and obstructions, allowing combustion air to flow. Obstructions such as insulation can inhibit proper air flow causing the heater to burn improperly. Missing fire blocks below the lower combustion air vents can allow the venting process to reverse causing , again, the heater to burn improperly and vent gases and aldehydes into the home through the ducting system.

Wall furnaces have a high potential for cracks in the heat exchangers. Ask your home inspector to review closely with a mirror and flashlight. The home inspector cannot always see a crack in a heat exchanger but may be able to locate those that are visible or suspect. The unit may need to be cleaned before lighting the pilot. You may also wish to ask the home inspector to review carefully the venting system in the attic crawl spaces when the inspector checks this area.

Watch out for the home which has been occupied by the same owner for years. The heating system may not meet today's safety standards and would typically, after and inspection by the gas supplier, be "red-tagged" until replaced or repaired. This could be uncomfortable for a new homeowner if the weather is extremely cold and the repair cost is out-of-pocket.

The Gas Company or provider usually offer a no-charge safety inspection to their customers. It is highly recommended to have this performed regardless if you had the home inspected. A diligent inspection of the heating system, venting system, and a careful review of heat exchangers can possibly save a life or prevent loss by fire.

by Claudia Lawrence

NACHI contributing author

Executive Director, TWI Systems

http://www.nachi.org/heatingsysteminspected2006.htm

The "Deal Killer" Debate Continues

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Sun, 22 Apr 2007 13:16:25 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

The "Deal Killer" Debate Continues at this link:

http://activerain.com/blogsview/5955...ller-Inspector

This thread will give you more insight and information on how Realtors and Inspectors see the Inspection process than an all day educational coarse. Very informative. This information could make or break a lot of deals if you do not know how to deal with it. It could save someone from a huge law suite if you understand the conflict of interest that is discussed in this thread.

Conserve Energy and Save Money

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Fri, 20 Apr 2007 22:47:31 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Are your energy bills too high? Is your home not as comfortable as you want it to be? Do you want to do more to protect the environment? Do you have teenagers at home giving your hot water bill a beating? Whatever your situation, this will help you to find a solution that’s right for you. This guide is primarily aimed at homeowners who are thinking of upgrading or replacing their home’s existing heating or cooling systems. It also contains useful information for people who are having a home built for them, and for those who want to reduce their energy consumption in general.

While builders generally offer a standard heating or heating/cooling package, upgrades to more efficient equipment might be available. Familiarity with the different systems, fuel options, their comparative prices and operating costs will help you to review upgrade options with your builder. Remember to also ask your builder about other energy efficiency upgrades, which can range from extra insulation to a complete R-2000-certified home. Before being R-2000-certified, each home is evaluated and tested to ensure a high level of energy efficiency has been designed and built into it. There are both financial and environmental benefits to conserving energy and using it wisely. To help you conserve even more, this will also direct you to resources that can help you reduce energy consumed for purposes beyond heating and cooling your home.

A Wise Choice

The options presented will help you to select heating and cooling systems that meet the needs of both your lifestyle and your check book. Besides the obvious savings for you that occur by lowering your consumption, by reducing demand for energy through conservation or, in the case of electricity, even from shifting consumption to times of lower demand, together we can lower the market price for the energy that is consumed. The advantages of investing in energy efficiency aren’t only felt within your family budget– they are realized in the cleaner environment that goes hand in hand with more efficient systems and the wise use of energy.

Before You Start

Putting an energy-efficient heating system into a drafty, poorly insulated house will reduce your energy bills. But you’ll notice a more dramatic saving, and even make yourself more comfortable, if you also make your entire house more energy efficient. How? Here are some ideas…

Weatherstrip and caulk to seal air leaks. You may have to replace uncontrolled sources of air with designed sources to ensure proper ventilation.
Increase insulation levels where appropriate (such as in the attic or walls) to reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer.
Open drapes on south-facing windows on sunny winter days so that the sun’s energy can help heat your home, and close them in summer to help keep your home cool.
Choose energy-efficient products when replacing windows and doors.

By making your house more energy-efficient, your heating and cooling systems will work less, and you may reduce the capacity needed when you replace your systems, which means more savings for you.

Why Energy Efficiency Matters

It’s good for your budget, your comfort and our environment. Each year you spend hundreds of dollars to heat and cool your home and to heat your hot water. By installing energy-efficient equipment, which gives you the same comfort for less energy, you can lower these costs. Furthermore, the lower you can make your energy costs now, the better off you will be should energy prices go up – and conservation reduces upward pressure on energy prices.

Whenever fuels are burned – in your home, in a generating station to produce electricity, in vehicles or elsewhere – carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxide and sulphur dioxide are released. These emissions contribute to environmental concerns including smog, acid rain and climate change. Reducing energy use lowers the amounts of these emissions and their impact on the environment. You can help by practicing energy efficiency and conservation not only in heating and cooling your home, but everywhere at home, in the workplace and in your transportation choices. Many factors can affect your annual energy bill such as size and location of your home, yearly variations in weather, efficiency of your furnace and other appliances, thermostat settings, number of occupants, and the local cost of energy.

To read the rest of this educational material go to:

http://www.nachi.org/energyconservation.htm?PHPSESSID=e7aba9739e066ccab1a1bbb79de3720d

Log Home Basics

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Thu, 19 Apr 2007 17:34:37 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Log homes may be site-built or pre-cut in a factory for delivery to the site. Some log home manufacturers can also customize their designs. Before designing or purchasing a manufactured log home, you need to consider the following for energy efficiency:

The R-Value of Wood

In a log home, the wood helps provide some insulation. Wood's thermal resistance or resistance to heat flow is measured by its R-value. The higher the R-value, the more thermal resistance.
The R-value for wood ranges between 1.41 per inch (2.54 cm) for most softwoods and 0.71 for most hardwoods. Ignoring the benefits of the thermal mass, a 6-inch (15.24 cm) thick log wall would have a clear-wall (a wall without windows or doors) R-value of just over 8.

Compared to a conventional wood stud wall [31 D2 inches (8.89 cm) insulation, sheathing, wallboard, a total of about R-14] the log wall is apparently a far inferior insulation system. Based only on this, log walls do not satisfy most building code energy standards. However, to what extent a log building interacts with its surroundings depends greatly on the climate. Because of the log's heat storage capability, its large mass may cause the walls to behave considerably better in some climates than in others. Logs act like "thermal batteries" and can, under the right circumstances, store heat during the day and gradually release it at night. This generally increases the apparent R-value of a log by 0.1 per inch of thickness in mild, sunny climates that have a substantial temperature swing from day to night. Such climates generally exist in the Earth's temperate zones between the 15th and 40th parallels.

Minimizing Air Leakage in Log Homes

Log homes are susceptible to developing air leaks. Air-dried logs are still about 15–20% water when the house is assembled or constructed. As the logs dry over the next few years, the logs shrink. The contraction and expansion of the logs open gaps between the logs, creating air leaks, which cause drafts and high heating requirements. To minimize air leakage, logs should be seasoned (dried in a protected space) for at least six months before construction begins. These are the best woods to use to avoid this problem, in order of effectiveness:

Cedar
Spruce
Pine
Fir
Larch

Since most manufacturers and experienced builders know of these shrinkage and resulting air leakage problems, many will kiln dry the logs prior to finish shaping and installation. Some also recommend using plastic gaskets and caulking compounds to seal gaps. These seals require regular inspection and resealing when necessary.

Controlling Moisture in Log Homes

Since trees absorb large amounts of water as they grow, the tree cells are also able to absorb water very readily after the wood has dried. For this reason, a log home is very hydroscopic—it can absorb water quickly. This promotes wood rot and insect infestation. It is strongly recommended that you protect the logs from any contact with any water or moisture. One moisture control method is to use only waterproofed and insecticide-treated logs. Reapply these treatments every few years for the life of the house. Generous roof overhangs, properly sized gutters and downspouts, and drainage plains around the house are also critical for moisture control.

Building Energy Code Compliance for Log Homes

Because log homes don't have conventional wood-stud walls and insulation, they often don't satisfy most building code energy standards—usually those involving required insulation R-values.
However, several states—including Pennsylvania, Maine, and South Carolina—have exempted log-walled homes from normal energy compliance regulations. Others, such as Washington, have approved "prescriptive packages" for various sizes of logs, but these may or may not make sense in terms of energy efficiency. The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) 90.2 standard contains a thermal mass provision that may make it easier to get approval in those states that base their codes on this standard. To find out the log building code standards for your state, contact your city or county building code officials. Your state energy office may be able to provide information on energy codes recommended or enforced in your state.

Building & Restoration of Log Cabins

Foundation

The foundation of a log cabin is made of stone pillars. The stones provide a sturdy base to support the cabin and act as a barrier between the cabin and the earth. The stones may settle over time and the foundation is carefully examined for damage or wear and subsequently repaired during restoration.

Wall Construction

The walls are made of logs, placed either vertically or horizontally, depending on the style and size of the cabin. The logs are notched at the corners to allow them to fit together. Corner notching is a notable characteristic of log cabin construction because it provides stability by locking the log ends in place, enabling the logs to fit together in a secure manner. Many different methods of corner notching exist, ranging from simple "saddle" notching to the common "V" notching or "steeple" notching, which get their name from the shape of the notch cut into the wood. These notching methods are marked by a cut into the wood that allows another cut piece of wood to fit together like a puzzle piece. Another commonly used technique, "square" notching, differs in that the logs are secured with the addition of pegs or spikes.

The number of logs used per wall varies with the size of the cabin. The spaces between logs are usually filled with a combination of materials in a process known as "chinking" and "daubing." This process seals the exterior walls, protecting them from weather and animal damage.

Roof

Log cabin roofs are often gabled and are comprised of hand-split, wood shingles. The roofs often develop damage and leaks over the years and are commonly included in restoration.

Doors

Many log cabins have both a front and rear door. Due to the many times the doors are opened and closed over the years, the doors are often not in good working order and require repair during restoration. Both doors on the cabin can be comprised of boards that are hand-dressed, open inward and are fastened to the log structure with pegs.

Windows

The cabin features two windows, located on either side of the chimney. The windows hold glass panes, which most likely need to be replaced during the restoration of the cabin.

Chimney

The cabin has a chimney that sank and deteriorated into many different pieces over the years. The chimney was rebuilt during cabin restoration.

Definitions:

Handcrafted log home

A home that is constructed of logs that are individually fit together.

Milled log home

Constructed of machine-lathed logs, and is also used to describe a log home built from a kit.

Insulated log home

Constructed with half-logs attached to a standard 2x6 frame structure.

Chinking

The mixture used to fill the gaps between logs - can be natural materials or synthetic.

Shrinking

The normal loss of diameter in logs as they lose moisture.

Settlement

The downward movement of log courses as the logs shrink.

Checking

The natural cracking of logs as they shrink.

Butt joints

Occur when two logs are placed end-to-end.

Log course

One layer of logs placed atop the entire foundation of the home.

Log wall exterior

The inspector shall inspect exterior surfaces of log walls, when such surfaces are visible, looking for:

presence of mold, mildew or fungus
cracks located at tops of logs and facing up
discoloration, graying, bleaching or staining of logs
loose or missing caulking
separation of joints
condition of chinking, to include cracking, tears, holes, or separation of log courses
condition of log ends

Log wall interior

The inspector shall inspect interior surfaces of log walls, when such surfaces are visible, looking for:

separation between logs, including light or air penetration from outdoors
separation between exterior log wall and interior partition walls
separation between log walls and interior ceilings

Other exterior concerns

In addition to the items specified in NACHI Standards of Practice 2.1 and 2.2, the inspector shall inspect:

downspout extensions
grading and water flow away from log walls
vertical support posts under and on all porches

Other interior concerns

In addition to the items specified in NACHI Standards of Practice 2.4 and 2.6, the inspector shall inspect:

Slip joints, adjustable sleeves, looped water supply lines, flexible hose sections, and flexible ductwork that are visible as part of the standard heating and plumbing inspections.

Exclusions

The inspector is not required to:

inspect or predict the condition of the interiors of logs
predict the life expectancy of logs
climb onto log walls. However, the inspector may inspect log walls by use of a ladder, if this procedure may be done safely and without damaging the walls.
inspect components of the porch support system, or of the plumbing or heating systems, that are not readily visible and accessible.

This educational information is provided from the National Assoc. of Certified Home Inspectors:

http://www.nachi.org/loghomes.htm?PHPSESSID=e7aba9739e066ccab1a1bbb79de3720d

Living With Wildlife

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Tue, 17 Apr 2007 17:44:16 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Wild animals contribute to our enjoyment of nature and outdoor recreation, but they can also damage property, agriculture, and natural resources and threaten human health and safety. Equipped with the right information and tools, most homeowners can solve their own problems and learn to live with wildlife. For example, trimming trees and shrubbery are ways of changing a habitat to make it less attractive to unwanted flocks of birds or even snakes.

The following information may assist in keeping that curious raccoon out of the garbage can, that persistent rabbit or deer out of the garden, that goose or duck out of the backyard pool, that woodpecker off the siding, and that swooping bat out of the attic. Caution should always be taken to avoid overly aggressive animals.

Squirrels and Other Rodents

To keep these animals from becoming a permanent part of the family home and yard, screens, vents, and fan openings; keep doors and windows in good repair; tighten eaves; replace rotten boards; cap the chimney; trim overhanging trees; remove bird feeders or use squirrel-proof feeders; and remove acorns and other nuts from the yard. Chipmunks can be deterred by removing denning habitat, which includes logs, rock walls, and stones.

Woodchucks

These animals, also known as groundhogs, sometimes burrow near buildings, browse in gardens, and damage fruit trees and ornamental shrubs. Fencing can help reduce woodchuck damage. The lower edge of the fence should be buried at least 10 inches in the ground to prevent burrowing. The fence should be 3 to 4 feet high, with a surrounding electric hot-shot wire placed 4 to 5 inches off the ground.

Opossums and Skunks

Opossums and skunks become a problem to homeowners by raiding garbage cans and bird feeders; eating pet foods; and living under porches, low decks, open sheds, and any other areas that provide shelter. Skunks also dig holes in lawns, golf courses, and gardens. Both animals sometimes kill poultry and eat eggs. To keep opossums and skunks from denning under buildings, seal off all foundation openings with wire mesh, sheet metal, or concrete. Chicken coops can be protected by sealing all ground-level openings into the buildings and by closing the doors at night. Foraging in garbage cans may be eliminated by providing tight?-fitting lids and straps.

Bats

Bats prefer to avoid human contact; however, they are known to establish roosts in attics and abandoned buildings. Building and attic roosts can be eliminated by sealing entry and exit holes (after the bats have left) with such materials as 1/4-inch hardware cloth, caulking, or wire mesh. If a bat makes its way into the house, you can usually encourage it to leave after dark by turning on lights and opening windows and doors.

Rabbits

Rabbits can be kept out of the garden or away from ornamental plants and small trees by using products containing repellents such as Hinder or by placing a 2-foot poultry fence around the area. It is important to bury the fence at least 6 inches beneath the surface of the ground. For information about taste repellents, check your local garden or farm center. Before using any chemical repellents, read the label carefully and check with your State pesticide regulatory agency for application guidelines.

Raccoons

Raccoons are attracted to easy food sources, like garden produce, garbage, and pet food. To help prevent scavenging, use metal trash cans that are fastened to a pole or to another solid object. A strap or latch that secures the lid of the garbage can is also helpful. To keep raccoons out of the garden, use two strands of electric livestock fence. The strands should be placed 4 and 8 inches respectively off the ground and surround the entire garden. Exercise caution when implementing this exclusionary method in urban areas.

Raccoons will also readily inhabit attics, chimneys, and sheds. Use metal flashing and 1-inch-mesh hardware cloth to block entrances.

Snakes

The best way to keep snakes out of your house and yard is to seal cracks and openings around doors, windows, water pipes, attics, and foundations. Removing logs, woodpiles, and high grass and controlling insects and rodents are also helpful. Remove nonpoisonous snakes from inside buildings by placing piles of damp burlap bags in areas where snakes have been seen. After the snakes have curled up beneath the bags, remove the bags and snakes from the building. To remove dangerous snakes, call a professional pest control company.

Woodpeckers

These birds damage buildings by drilling holes into wooden siding, eaves, or trim boards, especially those made of cedar or redwood. If the pecking creates a suitable cavity, the bird may use it for nesting. Effective methods of excluding woodpeckers include placing lightweight mesh nylon or plastic netting on the wooden siding beneath the eaves, covering pecked areas with metal sheathing, and using visual repellents like "eye-spot" balloons.

Deer

Deer feed on row crops, vegetables, fruit trees, nursery stock, stacked hay, and ornamental plants and trees. Deer can be discouraged by removing supplemental food sources and by using scare devices and repellents. The only sure way to eliminate deer damage is to fence the deer out. A wire-mesh fence is effective if it is solidly constructed and at least 8 feet high. Electric fencing also helps reduce damage.

Coyotes and Foxes

These animals may carry rabies and sometimes prey on domestic pets, rabbits, ducks, geese, chickens, young pigs, and lambs. Coyotes also kill calves, goats, and deer. Net-wire and electric fencing will help exclude foxes and coyotes; however, because they are good climbers, a roof of net wire on livestock pens may also be necessary. For more information about fencing, contact your local county extension office.

The protection of livestock and poultry is most important during the spring denning period. Foxes and coyotes will often den close to farm buildings, under haystacks, or inside hog lots or small pastures used for lambing. Shed lambing and farrowing in protected enclosures can be useful in preventing predation on young livestock. Additionally, noise- and light-making devices, such as the Electronic Guard, may keep these predators away. Guarding dogs are also useful in preventing predation on sheep. Regrettably, dispersal methods are not effective in all situations, so other methods, including trapping or snaring, may have to be used.

Mountain Lions and Bears

As bear and lion habitats continue to decrease, interactions between these animals and humans continue to increase. Bears are noted for destroying cornfields and trees, scavenging in garbage cans, demolishing the interiors of cabins and campers, and killing livestock. Lions are serious predators of sheep, goats, domestic pets, large livestock, poultry, bighorn sheep, and deer. Typical bear and lion predation on sheep leaves 10 or more killed in a single attack, and both species are known to attack humans.

Prevention is the best method of controlling bear and lion damage. Heavy woven and electric fencing can effectively deter bears and lions from attacking livestock and damaging property. Loud music, barking dogs, exploder cannons, fireworks, gunfire, nightlights, scarecrows, and changes in the position of objects in the depredation area often provide temporary relief. The best way to protect pets is to keep them inside an enclosed kennel or shelter. Using guarding dogs, removing garbage and dead carcasses, and placing crops and beehives at considerable distances away from timber and brush may reduce damage by bears. Mountain lions also prefer to hunt where escape cover is close by; removal of brush and trees within a quarter of a mile of buildings and livestock may reduce lion predation.

Professional relocation of damaging mountain lions and bears is sometimes necessary. For more information about State laws and regulations concerning relocation or lethal control of mountain lions and bears, contact your State wildlife agency.

Remember, think through your problem before attempting to invest in a control program. What is the easiest, cheapest, most practical way to control the problem? What will be the least hazardous to pets, people, and non-target wildlife? Are you losing enough money to justify a control expense? Your goal should be to reduce damage to a level you can live with.

Are You Planning to Buy or Rent a Home Built Before 1978?

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Mon, 16 Apr 2007 22:47:22 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains lead (called lead-based paint). Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly. Federal law requires that individuals receive certain information before renting or buying a pre-1978 housing:

Residential Lead-Based Paint Disclosure Program

LANDLORDS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before leases take effect. Leases must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint.
SELLERS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before selling a house. Sales contracts must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint. Buyers have up to 10 days to check for lead hazards.

*If not conducted properly, certain types of renovations can release lead from paint and dust into the air.

Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains lead (called lead-based paint). Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly. Federal law requires that contractors provide lead information to residents before renovating a pre-1978 housing:

Pre-Renovation Education Program (PRE)

RENOVATORS have to give you a pamphlet titled “Protect Your Family from Lead in Your Home”, before starting work.

Take precautions before your contractor or you begin remodeling or renovations that disturb painted surfaces (such as scraping off paint or tearing out walls):

Have the area tested for lead-based paint.
Do not use a belt-sander, propane torch, heat gun, dry scraper, or dry sandpaper to remove lead-based paint. These actions create large amounts of lead dust and fumes.
Lead dust can remain in your home long after the work is done.
Temporarily move your family (especially children and pregnant women) out of the apartment or house until the work is done and the area is properly cleaned. If you can't move your family, at least completely seal off the work area.
If you have already completed renovations or remodeling that could have released lead-based paint or dust, get your young children tested and follow the steps outlined to protect your family.

CLICK HERE to download EPA's "lead safety booklet"(pdf).

READ MORE HERE: http://www.nachi.org/lead.htm?PHPSESSID=e7aba9739e066ccab1a1bbb79de3720d

Methamphetamine Contamination

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Thu, 12 Apr 2007 09:28:42 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Over the past few decades, the illegal production of methamphetamine has reached epidemic proportions both in the United States and internationally. The manufacture of this drug has caused billions of dollars in damage to property, to the pharmaceutical industry, and most importantly has caused serious health effects to people through use and unseen contamination in homes.

Due to the seriousness of this problem, close to a dozen states have adopted regulatory clean up standards and many more will follow suit before the end of the decade. Some states have created guidelines for the public that outline clean up requirements, but much of the information has little scientific basis and does not offer a comprehensive approach to the problem.

Various processes and combinations of chemicals are used to manufacture (“cook”) meth. Each process produces gas or vapor at some point(s) during the cooking process. It is estimated that each pound of manufactured meth produces five to six pounds of hazardous waste that may be disposed of illegally in the environment. To make matters more challenging, many of these sites are in a residential setting meaning children and other occupants of the property may potentially be exposed to chemicals, harmful gases, hazardous materials and illegal drugs during and after the cooking process.

Clan labs must be cleaned up to protect current and future occupants. Active laboratories pose the greatest risk and must be safely neutralized and decommissioned before a permanent long-term solution to the potential health hazards associated with residual contamination may be contemplated. Under the current cleanup model employed in several states, clan labs are often decommissioned and cleaned up in two general phases. The first phase involves law enforcement and other qualified first responders. The second phase or long-term cleanup involves property owners and/or other interested parties in the property.

In the first phase, bulk chemicals are removed and the laboratory is decommissioned. However, this activity should not be mistaken for the long-term cleanup of the property since the scope of work is generally limited to the abatement of illegal activity and any imminent threat to human health and the environment.

In response to this issue and the growing concern over the potential health effects associated with clan labs, eleven states have passed regulations with regard to decontamination standards. In short, the second phase provides mechanisms for cleanup of contamination and certification by local health departments that a contaminated property has been cleaned up to established standards.

Property owners whose houses, apartments, motel rooms and even storage facilities were used for meth production face decontamination costs running into the thousands of dollars. On average, only one in three contaminated properties gets cleaned up. And cleanup usually happens solely because determined property owners do it voluntarily.

This article is educational material provided by the National Assoc. of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI)

http://www.nachi.org/methamphetaminecontamination.htm?PHPSESSID=536197eab6b64257dc9cd5b4f12397c8

Sag In Roof-Attic Structure

John McKenna (American Home Inspection & Thermal Imaging) — Tue, 10 Apr 2007 20:44:55 -0500

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Years ago many houses in east Texas did not use large enough lumber, or enough lumber, to support the rafters and joist of a house. As a result, many of your older homes develop sags in the rafters and joist. If you inspect out in the rural areas, you will find some short cuts may have been used in trying to brace a roof. The dips in the valley, cracks in the garage ceiling and waves in the roof line are many times the evidence of this lack of proper support. Sometimes the roof will reflect foundation movement also, but we shall save that for another day.

I find that most people gravitate to two primary ways of looking a situation like this.

1- Is something functional enough so that I can live in it?

2- Will this flaw affect market value later when I want to sell?

There is a lot of gray area in both of these thought patterns. You might indeed be able to live in the house, but your roof and ceiling materials may continue to move over time, making the damage worse. At what point do you pay the bucks and seek the benefit? I call this question "the pain vs the benefit" question.

If you try to bring every hump and bump of an older home up to being perfectly straight and true again, you may succeed, but did the value of your home increase? Maybe, maybe not. You also run into the problem of causing secondary movement, cracking or separating when you try to jack up old bent lumber that has become set in place over many years. Be careful when looking at your options and always seek a qualified structural contractor to advise you. Sometimes a structural Engineer has be brought in to help end the debate of what to do and what no to do. This is a very subjective field and your decision may cost you down the road. The Seller should not get offended when these problems are discovered, because in the end, the discovery may be the very thing that protects him later. An Inspector may create some questions instead of finding all the answers, and this can be frustrating to the selling process.

But if everyone goes into the deal with their eyes open, there is less hard feelings later. That could be worth more than you will ever know. Deal with it and be patient until you find the balance that fits your needs exactly. Always get written warranty in case something needs attention down the road. Try to relax. Repairs can have a way of causing stress and certain people's personality may not be able to deal with it. This is when the true MASTERS of the real estate profession shine.

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Have your Heating System Inspected

The "Deal Killer" Debate Continues

Conserve Energy and Save Money

John McKennaAMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Log Home Basics

John McKennaAMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Living With Wildlife

John McKennaAMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Are You Planning to Buy or Rent a Home Built Before 1978?

John McKennaAMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Methamphetamine Contamination

John McKennaAMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

Sag In Roof-Attic Structure

John McKennaAMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION

John McKenna

AMERICAN HOME INSPECTION