Carra just wrote a great blog that I wanted to share about what really sells a home. She is right on the money with this and every seller should read this before attempting to sell their home!
All four of the variables go together to create the "perfect sale." Each aspect must be taken into consideration if you want a property to sell.
1. Price fixes everything! Don't let anyone tell you different. When the buyer perceives there is a value because of the price, they will buy the home.
The other three varibles always can effect the price.
There are circumstances where a buyer has lost the ability to qualify for a traditional loan because of a foreclosure or bankruptcy and the buyer needs owner financing. With Owner carry Terms that particular buyer may be willing to pay more because they have ownership with possibly a small down payment.
Conversely, if the Condition is bad the price will have to be reduced to reflect a value in the home where a buyer will have to come in and do repairs or cosmetic updates.
Location is the toughest variable in the sale to compensate for. Most people have heard about in Real Estate the terms Location, Location, Location. If the location is bad.. ONLY price will sell the property possibly combined with terms so exciting that a buyer will not be able to pass up the deal.
2.Terms. If the Terms are attractive, sometimes a seller can get more money for the home. For example: a home with a value of $325,000 listed with owner carry terms of $25,000 down and no bank qualifing might be able to sell at $350,000 because of the terms.
Under any owner carry situation, it is important the seller speak with their accountant and attorney before accepting any contract and agreement to finance. The seller should be completely aware of the liability and consequences in owner financing.This is just an example how price can increase with the right terms.
3. Condition is a key factor in selling a home. When the property is in top condition, looking like a show home the seller may get top market value for the property. In times where homes are selling at a slow pace, in order to procur a sale, the home should be the BEST property at the Lowest price to get to the closing table.
Taking a seller on a preview tour of the homes in the area similar to their property can save months of discouragement with a home not selling. When a seller can see the competition and accepts the fact their home needs to be the Best house at the lowest price to sell, the home will sell and the seller will see what they are up against in comparison.
Carpet or paint allowance does NOT work in selling a home. If the home needs carpet, put it in. If the home needs painting, get it painted. Many times this can cost a seller $5,000 to $8,000 to do those upgrades. Investing, yes, investing is the correct term, for getting the house sold. The money invested will come back in the form or a quick sale at full market value.
A picture is worth a thousand words so think about how the property looks and even take some pictures to see what a buyer is looking at. Sellers should look at the pictures like they were a buyer and ask, "would I buy this house in this condition for this price?" Are the kitchen counters cluttered? Are the closets a mess? What does the front door look like and the yard when people drive up to the house?
A seller has 8 seconds for a buyer looking at a home to decide if they really like the house and if it will go on the A list. The buyer starts the decision making process when driving up to the home while looking at the surrounding properties and the entrance to the home.
There are many agents are trained in "staging" a home and there are "staging services" which help a seller to understand what needs to be done to create a "marketable product." Listen to these people if you want to get the house sold.
The seller needs to separate from the house and see it as an investment or product that needs to be sold. The seller needs to take all the emotions out of the happy memories in the home if they are serious about selling.
4. Location is the only variable which cannot be changed. A bad location, is a bad location so only price and terms are going to help this situation.
It does not matter that the same model home across the street sold for thousands more, because it was ACROSS THE STREET and did not back to the highway. A seller needs to get a reality check on location and think about when they purchased. If the seller got a good deal when they bought because it had a bad location then they have to give the new buyer the same good deal to sell.
Sellers should take all the emotion out of the business of selling a home and treat the transaction as an investment decision.
If the goal is to get the home sold then listen to the professionals and let them do their job.
Alan May just posted a great blog on the reason your house won't sell and we agree 100%! Most of the time it comes down to price. Time and time we've seen where a house isn't getting any showings and then you drop it down to the next pricepoint ($25k increments on realtor.com) and then all of a sudden there is interest and GOOD feedback whereas when the house was at the higher pricepoint, the feedback was not good because the house was competing with houses that should be in the higher pricepoint. Bad smells are a huge problem as well - buyers won't even consider a house that smells bad because there are just too many available. Thans for letting me share this Alan!
1. Your photos are unimpressive. The vast majority of home buyers start their search for a home on the Internet, your house had better look great in print. Not just nice... downright fabulous. Today we are considering internet views as a 'virtual showing'... if your house gets past that, then they might (just might) make an appointment to see it in person... We consider that your SECOND showing. Today's buyers are expecting good quality photos (and lots of them... just 1 shot from the street won't cut it!), a virtual tour, maybe even a floor plan, if applicable.
2. It's overpriced. You've got to view your own property as objectively as possible. Look at the home like a "buyer"... if necessary, go out with your Realtor and view other homes that are priced comparably to yours. Be objective. Given the other options on the market (and yes, you DO have to include short sales and foreclosures on your list... your potential buyers are!), would YOU buy your home, over the others on the market?
If no, then you either have to "update" your home to meet or beat the competition... or lower your price to adjust for it. if you can't afford to sell for the price, that you KNOW it sell for, you may want to consider just removing it from the market.
3. It shows poorly. This could mean almost anything... from the barky, barky dog, to the smell of the diaper pail. Maybe the carpeting is a bit worn, or the woodwork shows a lot of wear. All things that don't show up on the internet, but whoa.... once you get inside the house... they show up, like a cat-urine-smell on a 95 degree day in New Orleans!
4. You're invisible. Today's buyer comes from the internet, almost exclusively. Have you (or your agent) simply plopped the property on the MLS, and started praying? Are you on all the websites...(Trulia, Zillow, Craig's List, Google Base, etc...) all the places that buyers are searching? If not, you want to be.
5. Your listing is tired and stale on the market. Okay... yes, you overpriced your home initially when you first came on the market 2 years ago. But since then you have reduced your price almost monthly... constantly chasing the market down.... Now, finally you're truly priced where you should be... but your listing is tired and stale. Everyone looking for your type of property (ie: 3br/1.1 bath) in your area has already seen it, sometimes twice... and they remember that there was "something" about it that they didn't like... but what they don't remember is... what they didn't like.... was the price. Time to take the listing off market. Let it cool off (3-6 months), and bring it back on fresh in the Spring. Yeah, you'll have 6 mos. worth of holding-costs... but you'll more than make up for it in your purchase price.
btw... Avoid the temptation to bring the house back on at a higher price, than when you left the market. Just "don't do it"!
6. Your house won't appraise. The house looks great... you've finally gotten someone to bring you a bid on your slightly over-priced, but beautiful pied-a-terre. But the bank appraiser says it's worth $20,000 less than what they've agreed to pay. Heavy sigh... bite the bullet.... negotiate with them. If you have to drop the price $20,000 to make it work.... "make it work"... chances are, anybody else trying to buy your house will run into the same problem.
Richard Zaretsky has many very informative articles about short sales on his blog and this is one of them. I am often asked about the exact procedures for a short sale and unfortunately I don't have exact procedures and timelines because they vary from bank to bank. We've had some close in as little as 60 days and others that take 6 months or more. Frustrating to say the least but what Richard says about it being "uncharted waters" and that there is no industry standard when it comes to short sales or loan modifications.
This seems to be THE NUMBER ONE question I get. Unfortunately there are several answers and which is correct for you depends on the Circumstances. I will address the common scenarios in this article.
Policy in my office is to never "tell" - as in "instruct" - our borrower client to pay or not to pay their mortgage. Paying or not paying has a lot of collateral effects and the borrower needs to know what they are before making the decision. We don't make the decision for the borrower (our client) because the effects of paying or not paying are not going to affect me - but they will affect the client, so it is the client that must make the final decision.
Let me make one issue clear - when we are hired to help facilitate a short sale or loan modification it is far easier for us to negotiate with the lender if the payments are late, but it is almost never a requirement. The exceptions to which will be discussed later in this article. Additionally, internal rules change at the banks constantly. A new client came in totally frustrated. They called their bank to help with a modification and the bank said they could not address their situation until they were at least 60 days late. So the near perfect (800+) credit score couple stopped paying for 60 days and then called the bank back. Now the bank says that because they are 60 days late they cannot speak to them about a modification! The point is, if you don't have to be late then why voluntarily create a late payment credit history that will adversely affect your credit-dependent life almost immediately and for years to come?
SO LET'S GET INTO IT - Danger - this is a long article and it covers a lot of ground!
Short Sale:
A borrower that is current and contemplating a short sale wonders if they should stop paying their (first) mortgage. They are upside down and until now they have been current. However they are paying the mortgage at a cost of not paying other bills. (Other or different facts may be that they are paying all their bills but taking the money from savings or a pension fund to make those payments, or they are borrowing money from another equity loan).
Generally, it is not a good idea to get into debt to pay your mortgage, unless you have a solid plan to both (i) keep the mortgage current and (ii) repay the additional indebtedness you are creating. It is not like taking from one pocket to put into another - it is more like taking from someone else's pocket to pay your bills. This would include credit card loans as the source of funds. It all has to be paid back, so if you don't have a plan to pay it back, don't borrow it in the first place! You are only digging a bigger hole for yourself and making it harder to get out of the hole.
If you are taking from your pension or savings money, again you better have a rock solid plan to get that money back into those accounts, or there is no sense in giving up that hard earned and usually irreplaceable retirement money, especially considering these are monies that are usually protected from creditors' judgments including those your mortgage lender could obtain (deficiency judgment)..
Of course the "amount" of money you have "in reserve" comes into consideration. If you have 2 million dollars in reserve and you decide to spend 10% of it to keep the loans current until you can short sale the property, that plan has a basis that the 10% is not going to make a difference in the way you run your life over the remaining time you have left as a mere mortal.
Sometimes, but rarely, we run into a lender that says they won't approve a short sale or modification because the borrower is current with his payments. When we have encountered this it is in most cases associated with a government backed loan, (but later on we will show you why this may be motivated by plain greed on the part of a loan servicer). A properly compiled financial snapshot of the borrower should show why they are current and what will happen if the short sale or modification is not approved.
Your decision on how to proceed should be based on what goal you are trying to accomplish and how you plan to get to that goal (see how to determine your goal).
Mortgage Modification:
Apart for some voluntary government programs regarding (Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac) government involved mortgages, I know of no lender that absolutely will not deal with a borrower who is current with their mortgage payments. Lenders deal with all sorts of situations and "absolutely not" is just not in the vocabulary. A typical borrower calling a lender may hear that they must be late, but that is more of a "vetting" statement than an absolute policy.
The exceptions are some government program guides for modification. The first step to seeing if your loan comes within this exception is to see if it is a Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac loan. You can do this online at the Making Home Affordable site. Many servicers and lenders whose loans are not "government backed" are now choosing to follow this government plan (known as the Home Affordable Modification plan or more affectionately called the "Obama Plan" - see below) for the simple reason that they are being compensated by the government for each successful modification they execute within its guidelines, and either the servicer or lender receive a residual bonus for the loan staying current under the modification. In these cases we have seen non-government backed loans insist on the borrower being late to qualify for modification as well. What is confusing on this point is that when the plan was introduced it included modifications (and compensation for such) for current loans as well. However, we are told time and time again from the lenders directly that they must be late to qualify. There is no such rule in the guidelines.
While this is contrary to what has been published by the government about the plan, keep mind that following the plan and any of its various aspects is entirely voluntary and up to the Lender or servicer. They can pick and chose from this plan as they see fit for their own internal reasons. Here is a more interesting twist - a servicer that modifies a delinquent loan is paid more under this incentive plan than if the borrower were to modify while the loan is current! If the borrower is current, the servicer can receive up to $3,500 in incentive fees from the government. If the borrower is delinquent, the servicer can receive up to $4,000 in incentive fees from the government. Thus it seems that it pays ($500 to)the servicer to encourage a borrower to be delinquent!
We often see a client that fits the profile for modification under this government plan. Some of these plans are said to require that to be qualified the borrower must be late 60 days (see Guidelines page 5 at bottom). But in fact, being late is not a requirement, but only one factor of many (see Guidelines page 16 at the top - "However, a NPV (net present value) positive result is not necessary to qualify a loan for a Home Affordable Modification"). If the goal is to qualify under such a plan as put in place by the lender at that time, then to accomplish that qualification the borrower may need to make themselves late, but that cannot be determined in a 2 minute telephone call with a lender representative. I cringe when we go this route because just like these "plans" came into existence, I can see them change the plan thus leaving the now 60 day late borrower with ruined credit scores that occurred needlessly.
Generally about a quarter of our modification clients never go late and still get a modification offer from the lender. However, keep in mind that nearly all lenders put up as their first line of defense the policy that going late is a necessity to qualify. We can only speculate this is done to deter the enormous inflow of loan modification requests from borrowers that would come in if this was NOT said to be a requirement. It also helps address those in the most dire amount of need first.
The Pro's and the Con's:
The general rule of thumb we use is if you can pay your mortgage and maintain your life's necessities, you may consider keeping the loan current, taking the points in this article into account. However, if you need to choose between buying food or medications and paying the mortgage, the decision that should be made is clear: your life necessities take precedent.
Here are the pro's to consider when in the short sale or modification process. Keeping the loan CURRENT has the following benefits:
a) Your credit score is not dinged until the short sale transaction occurs (and not at all in most loan modifications) and your overall credit score reduction will be minimized, and b) You will remain in good standing with your lender without worry of penalties, fines, or a foreclosure.
The "con's" of keeping the loan current are that:
(a) You will be out of pocket for the monthly mortgage payment (monies which you may or may not need to survive), and
(b) Your lender may question the sincerity of your claimed hardship, and you may be spending funds that would otherwise be potentially (but rarely) forgiven by the lender. In addition, occasionally the lenders in a short sale may require a lump sum payment above the sale amount from the borrower to forgive the debt. Coming up with that money is sometimes the difference between a deal or no-deal. If you can put your mortgage payments aside and stockpile them, it will help you cover that potential lump sum.
A similar pro/con approach applies to GOING DELINQUENT with your mortgage. In favor of going late is being able to keep the unspent mortgage payments in your pocket (or applied towards other necessities as the case may be) in which event your hardship may appear more sincere to the lender. On the other hand, there are very real consequences to going late with your mortgage payment:
a) You WILL incur late fees and other penalties on the late interest. Usually this is not a large issue as it is part of the forgiven debt in a short sale and usually forgiven in a modification, but it is something to consider,
b) Your credit score downgrade will be harder as you will compound the short sale hit with a 30 day late, 60 day late, etc, (and if this is a modification you will make a non-negative credit score event turn into a negative credit score event), and
c) You will eventually cross a threshold (typical industry standard of 90 days late) where the lender will initiate a foreclosure action in State court.
Going Late on Your Second Mortgage:
Often a borrower comes to us and says that they are late on the first mortgage but current on the second mortgage. The second mortgage is almost always totally upside down with no equity left in the property to secure that financial obligation. The borrower says they paid the second mortgage because they had the money for the smaller payment (second) mortgage but not the larger amount first mortgage. Our answer - if you don't pay the first mortgage they are going to foreclose it and then paying the second mortgage is not going to save your house.
Lately we have seensecond mortgage lenders with 90 day late mortgages skipping the foreclosure process (since if they cause a sale of the house it is sold subject to the first mortgage, and thus any buyer still has to pay the first mortgage, which usually makes no economic sense). Instead the second mortgage lender sues the borrower on the promissory note only and gets a money judgment that they can keep for a long time (20 years in Florida).
So if a client says they are paying the second mortgage but not the first mortgage, we usually suggest they look at the common sense approach and what are they likely to gain or lose by doing so.
Effect of Non-Payment / Late Payment on Credit Score:
This is a big question and nowhere is the answer clear cut. Definitely if you get a report on your credit that you were "late" (in mortgages that means 30 days or more late) then your credit has been "dinged" and your credit score is adversely affected.
Credit scores are used for many purposes, including the amount of credit you can get on a credit card, the interest rate you get on credit cards, car loans and mortgages, your ability and price of life and disability insurance and even car or house liability insurance, your ability to get a certain type of job, or to establish business relationships, and your ability to rent a place to live, to name a few. So credit scores are important. If you want to better understand credit scoring you can see the Federal Reserve Board's Report to Congress from April 2008.
How much your credit score is affected by a 30, 60 or 90 day late report depends on a lot of other factors about your financial well being, your past credit history and myriad other issues. Generally though we have our clients reporting drops of as little as 50 points for a no late payment short sale or up to 150 points for a short sale with multiple late payment reports. We have seen an 800 go to 720 and we have seen a 740 go to 500. It all depends on too many uncontrollable credit issues to be able to give a formula that works for everyone. For a discussion on credit scores this our past article.
Confused?
Rightfully so. The fact of the matter is that we are in uncharted waters and there is no industry standard for Short Sales or Loan Modifications, which makes pinning down exactly what the Lenders may do near impossible. Pile on the fact that there are a large number of lenders out there and each have their own internal policies which change as readily as the tides. The best anyone can hope to do is make an educated decision, set a plan, and be ready for anything.
Copyright 2009 Richard P. Zaretsky, Esq.
Be sure to contact your own attorney for your state laws, and always consult your own attorney on any legal decision you need to make. This article is for information purposes and is not specific advice to any one reader.
Here's the mortgage expert Jeff Belonger again, explaining what the FHA/HUD finally decided to do with the idea of borrowing the $8000 tax credit in advance.
Unfortunately as it stands now, a first time buyer still has to come up with the 3.5% downpayment and can use the $8000 in addition to that or as closing costs.
This really hasn't solved the problem of a first-time home buyer coming up with the downpayment money they'll need but we'll stay tuned.......
The first time homebuyers tax credit of $8,000 has been approved by HUD for all FHA loans. But don't get too excited too quickly. If you get a chance to read the mortgagee letter, ML 2009-15, it states that you can't use this tax credit for the required down payment of 3.5%.
HUD originally put out mortgagee letter 2009-15 on May 12th, but was rescinded the next day. Please read about that here : $8,000 tax credit rescinded by HUD. For some reason, it was prematurely placed on HUD's web site, but apparently wasn't finalized. Now we have a new version and if not read correctly, you could be putting misinformation out there. So what does the new mortgagee letter state?
Here is the positive part about the tax credit. You can receive the first time homebuyers tax credit upfront, but not through the IRS. This would be illegal. Please read : It's illegal to receive your tax credit before you close on your home. Buyers - BEWARE, please read that, because too many people are saying that you can get the money directly from the IRS prior to closing. The IRS & HUD both say no!!!
So how can you receive this upfront? It can be given to you as a second or a silent second from any Federal, State, or local agencies, and any FHA mortgagee or any FHA approved non-profit organization. People, in layman's terms, this is already acceptable by HUD's standards, except for the lender that is now able to give the monies upfront in a form of a 2nd mortgage. Another terminology is that this can be an advance loan from any of the entities mentioned above.
Summary : Essentially, this means that the entities mentioned above, are purchasing this tax credit on your behalf and giving it back to you. The short version of this is that you can use some of the money from the $8,000 Tax Credit as your down payment, but after you put down the first 3.5% of that down payment. Meaning, you have to come up with 3.5% of your own money still. With FHA loans, it can still be a gift from a relative/family member. It also can come from non-profit or government agencies to be used as your initial down payment, but not used through the tax credit. Overall, the tax credit that is advanced, can be used for all closing costs. But you can't receive monies back at closing.
And again, keeping in mind, it's illegal to receive this tax credit upfront directly from the IRS. There is more verbiage in the mortgagee letter 2009-15 , but the main point is that you have to have 3.5% of the downpayment yourself, before you can use the tax credit that would be 'loaned' to you.
THOUGHTS??? - Well, in all honesty, how does this truly help? What is the gov't thinking here? As a buyer, I would still need the initial 3.5% of my monies for the down payment. Again, needing money to buy. I know some of you are for this fact, that buyers should have skin in the game. But keep in mind, this was not the true demise to our foreclosure mess. We need to sell houses to keep this economy going. Just my opinions and food for thought. thanks
My Series on the First time homebuyers $8,000 tax credit - Everything you need to now, from start to finish - What's allowed and what's not allowed :
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To list your property for sale or to purchase a property in Maryland, call Lisa & David Webber, ABR, Licensed Realtors®. For more information on our services, please visit our profile or our website.
To view all the Maryland Homes For Sale Click here and then click on Property Search on the left hand side. We know Anne Arundel, Howard, Calvert, Charles, Baltimore, and Prince George's Counties and look forward to the opportunity to serve you.
I'm sure you've heard of the $8000.00 first time homebuyer tax credit. That's a great credit and you can even ammend your 2008 taxes and get the refund after settlement. That's all fine and well, but what if you need the $8000 to go towards your downpayment? Now the FHA is going to work with their approved lenders to do a sort of bridge loan so that first time buyers can take advantage of the credit BEFORE BUYING and use it towards their downpayment. We don't have all of the details yet and it sounds like the kinks are being worked out, but if this works out, renters can more easily become buyers.
A first-time homebuyer in our area would be in about the $200,000 to $300,000 price range, most likely purchasing a condo or townhome, but in a few areas you can even buy a single family home. You would normally need a minimum of 3.5% for a downpayment, so about $7000-$10,500 out of pocket cash. You can be "gifted" this downpayment from Mom & Dad if they are feeling especially generous, but if you are like most people, Mom and Dad want you to come up with the money yourselves (or their 401Ks have been depleted so they don't have it to give!).
If FHA lenders can stay within the guidelines and work out bridge loans to enable you to use this $8000.00, that would cover your entire downpayment for a $200,000 condo and most of it as you get closer to $300,000!
This is the opportunity that many people who are renting have been waiting for. If your credit is decent, about 620 FICO and above, your American Dream could come true soon.
We work with several great local lenders who can explain how this works and see if you're qualified to become a homeowner. Several of them provide free credit counseling and repair and will work with you over time to get you qualified for your loan, just give us a call and we'll provide you with all the information you need.
To list your property for sale or to purchase a property in Maryland, call Lisa & David Webber, ABR, Licensed Realtors®. For more information on our services, please visit our profile or our website.
To view all the Maryland Homes For Sale Click here and then click on Property Search on the left hand side. We know Anne Arundel, Howard, Calvert, Charles, Baltimore, and Prince George's Counties and look forward to the opportunity to serve you.
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To list your property for sale or to purchase a property in Maryland, call Lisa & David Webber, ABR, Licensed Realtors®. For more information on our services, please visit our profile or our website.
To view all the Maryland Homes For Sale Click here and then click on Property Search on the left hand side. We know Anne Arundel, Howard, Calvert, Charles, Baltimore, and Prince George's Counties and look forward to the opportunity to serve you.
If you find yourself relocating to Maryland, you may end up needing temporary housing until you can settle on your home. We're working with a military couple right now who is relocating to Frederick from Germany. The wife flew in several weeks ago to go house shopping and Dave spent three days with her, looking at all her favorites after eliminating many by shopping on the internet.
She chose her favorite which is a bank foreclosure and we're scheduled to close on June 2nd. Only problem is the bank came back and had us do an addendum to extend the settlement until June 18 if necessary because they are so overwhelmed with foreclosures. That means they are going to need a place to stay for longer than originally planned.
Extended Stay America has locations that fill the gap for many people and they have a lot of different locations around the area. Their hotes are designed for longer stays with studios featuring fully-equipped kitchens and plenty of work space. You'll have a refrigerator, microwave and stovetop, workspace with computer dataport, wireless internet, iron and full size ironing board, guest laundry, dining and cooking utensils and some of the rooms are pet friendly as well.
Homestead Studio Suites is another option, similar to Extended Stay America, Homestead Studio Suites offers a comfortable room, fully-equipped kitchen, workspace with wireess internet, and onsite guest laundry. They have nightly, weekly,and extended stay rates. This option also works well for business travelers or vacationers.
If you are relocating to Ft. Meade, Maryland, Shelter Cove apartment complex off Rt. 32 that has regular 1, 2, and 3 bedroom apartments that come unfurnished or furnished. Shelter Cove will let you use your Realtor to help you rent an apartment there and have their apartments listed in the multiple list system.
These temporary housing solutions can also be perfect for you if you have a contract on a short sale property and are unsure as to how long it will take to settle. When you purchase a short sale property, if you have a home to sell, it can be very difficult to coordinate the settlement dates. A solution to this problem is to sell your current home, have your belongings moved to storage, and stay in an extended stay hotel until you are able to settle on your new home. Many times the savings you can get by purchasing a short sale property are worth the short-term inconvenience of a temporary living arrangement.
Your professional Realtor can help you with your relocation plans including obtaining financing for your new home, shopping for your home, previewing potential homes, navigating through the inspection process and paperwork for you when you are not able to be present, so that your move goes as smoothly as possible.
To list your property for sale or to purchase a property in Maryland, call Lisa & David Webber, ABR, Licensed Realtors®. For more information on our services, please visit our profile or our website.
To view all the Maryland Homes For Sale Click here and then click on Property Search on the left hand side. We know Anne Arundel, Howard, Calvert, Charles, Baltimore, and Prince George's Counties and look forward to the opportunity to serve you.
BUYERS - this is a great, well-written blog by Jeff Belonger describing different home-buying scenarios. Most of our first time home buyers are around this price range, about $300K, which makes this especially helpful. Most of them are also choosing FHA which is a fine loan. We have seen many properties that some people will say "Oh, that can't go FHA", but many can. If the property really needs a lot of work or if it just needs cosmetics like paint, carpet and appliances, the FHA 203K is a good choice because you can borrow the money to fix up the home as well!
For several of you that read my blogs, I try and do a FHA vs Conventional purchase comparison once every few months.
FHA loans have been more wisely used in recent months as the choice of mortgages. What I hate hearing is that they have taken the spot of the subprime loans. This is not true by any part of the imagination. This statement is from those that are inexperienced in both the mortgage and the real estate industries. The realization has been that 30% of the subprime mortgages in the last 5 years previous to the last 2 years should have been FHA mortgages, not subprime. A recent survey has stated that FHA loanscould be more than 60% of all loans originated for the 2nd quarter of 2009.
To compound this, so many said just because you had a conventional loan, you had the better loan. This was not always true when putting 3 percent down or even 5 percent down. In most cases, you were told this, because that particular lender was not FHA approved. Now? Even with 10% down and credit scores less than 700, FHA loans in many cases, will be the best mortgage for you.
So you could argue the fact that this is just my opinion, that FHA mortgages in many cases would be better for you. True, even though I have over 16 years of experience as a loan officer in the mortgage industry. But numbers don't lie. Let me show you..... and in this scenario,
The example below is based on a $300,000 purchase price with 5% down. One reason why conventional rates are a little higher in this scenario as in FHA rates is because Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac have added penalties per se. If you are putting down less than 30% and your credit score is less than 720, certain fee penalties would apply to you, which would increase your rate. The FICO (credit score) that I am going to use is 679, which is above the average credit score and I will still show in this example that FHA loans are cheaper, even with 5% down.
***And keep in mind, some lenders have penalties on FHA mortgages with credit scores under 660 now. We don't. And many lenders can't do FHA loans under 620. I can still do them down to 600. Just beware of those promising you FHA loans under 600, they don't close as much as promised.***
Disclaimer : These rates are examples, but the spread shown in the example is real. To compare this scenario apples to apples, the fees are the same and with 1.75 points. In this scenario, there are no lender fees. The conventional rate also includes the penalty for the 679 credit score.
Okay, Jeff, you used 4 total examples. I am confused. A better than average loan officer will use all 4 comparisons, to show you the bang for your buck. I will explain each one below.
Conventional vs FHA - Your monthly savings is $170.36, favoring the FHA loan. Some of you might be saying that you will be adding $4,897.00 onto your principal balance if you did the FHA mortgage because of the FHA one-time mortgage insurance premium. This is correct and I don't want to confuse you with more numbers and charts. But here is a quick breakdown. If you kept your house for 5 years, which most people sell in a 6 year period, you would have saved $11,115.00 in payments in 5 years. This is a difference of $6,218.00 that you have saved!!! And one other thing that is very small, but still makes a difference.
Conventional Financed MI vs FHA - On the conventional loan, you can get a huge discount by adding the mortgage insurance onto your loan amount. Now your FHA monthly savings is only $37.83 a month, but you are now adding $4,560 to your total loan amount on the conventional loan. That comes out to an additional $76 a month over a 5 year period, if you wanted to pay down your mortgage to the same as the FHA loan. So now your total monthly savings is $113.83. Yes, you do get a larger tax write off on the mortgage insurance being financed, but with the lower rate on the FHA loan, you also subtract more off the principal quicker.
Conventional Lender Paid MI (LPMI) vs FHA - On the conventional loan, you are paying a higher rate, which part of it pays for your monthly mortgage insurance. Your monthly savings on the FHA loan is only $74.44. In 5 years, you saved $4,466. But you added $4,897 onto the FHA loan, which means that in 5 years, you came out $431 better on the conventional loan in 5 years. But hold the presses... You get a higher tax write off, because you added more money onto your FHA loan and you are slightly reducing your principal because you have a interest rate that is 1.25% lower than that of the conventional loan.
The end result on the 3rd comparison? You will still come out ahead on the FHA loan. But let's take it a step further. Take your savings of $74.44 a month and add it back into your payments monthly for 5 years. Guess what, my principal balance in 5 years on the FHA mortgage is $5,199 lower than that conventional mortgage.
Again, a very good loan officer should understand these comparisons and be able to show them to you, if you need to see the numbers to help make your decision. I have heard many borrowers in the past say that their loan officer did these comparisons and suggest the conventional loan. Rut row... I didn't fudge these numbers. ... just a FYI.
Another Footnote : You will be subtracting a few more dollars per month from your principal because your interest rate is lower, which would offset the interest that you would write off on the higher rate. Just something else to remember, but consult your tax consultant or CPA.
Disclaimer: ActiveRain Corp. does not necessarily endorse the real estate agents, loan officers and brokers listed on this site. These real estate profiles, blogs and blog entries are provided here as a courtesy to our visitors to help them make an informed decision when buying or selling a house. ActiveRain Corp. takes no responsibility for the content in these profiles, that are written by the members of this community.
1. Price
1. Your photos are unimpressive. The vast majority of home buyers start their search for a home on the Internet, your house had better look great in print. Not just nice... downright fabulous. Today we are considering internet views as a 'virtual showing'... if your house gets past that, then they might (just might) make an appointment to see it in person... We consider that your SECOND showing. Today's buyers are expecting good quality photos (and lots of them... just 1 shot from the street won't cut it!), a virtual tour, maybe even a floor plan, if applicable.
market?
5. Your listing is tired and stale on the market. Okay... yes, you overpriced your home initially when you first came on the market 2 years ago. But since then you have reduced your price almost monthly... constantly chasing the market down.... Now, finally you're truly priced where you should be... but your listing is tired and stale. Everyone looking for your type of property (ie: 3br/1.1 bath) in your area has already seen it, sometimes twice... and they remember that there was "something" about it that they didn't like... but what they don't remember is... what they didn't like.... was the price. Time to take the listing off market. Let it cool off (3-6 months), and bring it back on fresh in the Spring. Yeah, you'll have 6 mos. worth of holding-costs... but you'll more than make up for it in your purchase price.
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