Heading Off Environmental Concerns

 Other scary words that have been known to spook buyers include:

• Mold
• Asbestos
• Lead

But each of these can be addressed with buyers long before an inspection if you recognize it for what it is and discuss the solutions with them.  Quite frankly, some people are just panicked about these issues and no amount of education will get them past it - but at least you can present these issues before the bid is placed with a little observation and know-how.

MOLD:

If you see it, if you smell it - you have it.

Testing (which can be expensive) is only usually necessary if there is a dispute that the substance is mold, or if the buyers have specific concerns or allergies related to the type of mold. 

Let them save their money and focus instead on how to correct the source of the moisture that created the mold.  Remediation is just a fancy word for "guys dressed in space suits who charge you outrage sums of money to replace drywall and spray things down with bleach."

That's right.  Their secret ingredient is most often Clorox.  That'll be $2500, please.

And, often, they do all of that without figuring out and fixing where the water came from in the first place.  Of course there are some companies who want you to buy their special mold cleaning product and will tell you that only their "special" solution does the job.  If you believe this line of thinking, then you probably have several products advertised on infomercials in your home.

I have read that  "experts" estimate that 80-90 percent of all basement moisture problems (including mold) are corrected by cleaning and fixing the gutters and drainage system on the outside of the home, and improving the grading.  My experience over 6 years of inspections tells me that this figure is about right (if not a little low).  So, look on the exterior of the home at the point where you see the mold on the interior, and most likely you will find a downspout that is missing or isn't discharging well, a gutter that is damaged or clogged, or a depression that is collecting water when it rains/snows.

Correct these problems first.  Remove the moldy materials and install new, and if it can't be removed, bleach it.  It's that simple.

And when you tell your clients about it they will think:

•1)      You're a genius and,

•2)      This mold thing isn't really all that scary, after all.

ASBESTOS:

Everyone knows that asbestos is bad for you.  But most people don't know that it is only harmful if it becomes airborne and breathed in (we call that "friable").  It is perfectly acceptable to "encapsulate" or wrap up the asbestos inside another material so that it can't become airborne.  This is commonly done with asbestos pipe or duct insulation or siding.

So, the key for you is identifying the asbestos and discussing encapsulation with your clients before the Deal Killer gets a chance to do it and sacre them away. 

Look closely at the heat pipes or ducts when you are in the basement.  If there is a white wrap around the pipes that looks powdery, like it is made of some kind of plaster material- that's probably asbestos pipe wrap.  If there is a plastery, gauze-type of material applied at the heat pipe elbows - that is probably asbestos.  And if there is a chalky white, paper-like covering wrapped around older ductwork - that is most likely asbestos.  All of these can be encapsulated in newer insulation without further danger.  Asbestos shingles can be painted or covered over by another type of siding. 

DO NOT attempt to remove the asbestos in any situation.  This is dangerous, and the disposal fees are outrageous (again with the guys in space suits who charge you outrageous sums of money...).

LEAD

If the home was built before 1970, chances are high that someone used at least one coat of lead based paint on the doors, windows, trim and possibly the walls.

While much of the concerns seem to focus on kids eating paint chips, the bigger concerns is airborne lead dust that is far more dangerous and can be created by something as simple as opening and closing the bedroom door.

Friction between a door (or window) and the frame creates lead dust that, when inhaled, is about 10 times as harmful as the ingested chips.  So, scout out any original doors and windows and look for places where they stick or rub - these will have old paint showing through:  lead paint.

The solution is remarkably simple: encapsulate it.  First, try to eliminate the friction by repairing or altering the door/window  (this may require planing or physical alteration to the door or frame tht can create dust and may have to be performed using EPA recommended procedures).  Next, paint right over the lead paint with a specific kind of liquid coating (glorified paint) called an "encapsulant."  These products (like ChildGuard) are specifically designed and rated for lead paint encapsulation, and are approved for use by the EPA.  ChildGuard even has an additive that makes it bitter and less likely to be eaten by children.

As an added bonus, the cost of encapsulation is about 50 cent per square foot, as opposed to the $3-15/SF costs often quoted for lead paint abatement.

There are many items during an inspection that require a trained eye and professional evaluation.   But there are just as many that can be done by the average layperson without a single tool.  And a good Realtor with a careful eye can educate their clients while taking the bite out of the Deal Killer's barking.

 If you have missed the other discussions of how to make your deal "Deal Killer" proof you can find them here:

Part 3 - Easy Pre-inspection

Part 2 - Get the Most out of the Disclosure

Part 1 - Save your Deal from the "Deal Killers"