Everyone knows what surfing is right? Riding the big waves! Getting in the tubes! Well, we know what is is like now with reknowned famous surfing championships at all the world's finest surfing spots. How about "way back in the day"?

As far back as 1779, there was documentation from Captain King (who wrote in his journal back in the day of Captain Cook's voyages) who proclaimed that the "natives" chose stormy swells to run out with their slim boards that were rounded at the ends. When they battled the waves to get out further they turned around and layed lengthwise on the boards. The object was to place themselves on the summit of the wave which them took them towards shore.

Captain King's journal entry is the first description of he'e nalu, the Hawaiian word for surfing that was ever recorded by the Western man. There was no written language at this time in Hawaii so King's journal entry is seemingly the earliest written account of this Hawaiian sport. The westerners must have really thought it looked odd as they did not even swim!

Of course with the arrival of the missionaries the sport was looked upon as "evil" and a waste of time so after much preaching by the year 1890 surfing was almost extinct until King Kalakaua (Remember him in the Hula article?) an advocate of sports dedicated his time to bringing back the sport.

So....along came the famous Duke Kahanamoku and the popularity of surfing began!

  • Duke Kahanamoku was the living legend of surfers in Hawaii.
  • Hanging out on the Waikiki beaches with his buddies as a teenager from 1905 they later created their own surfing club called  "Hui Nalu" (In english called "The Club of the Waves.")
  • Duke Kahanamoku also broke the world record in the 100-meter freestyle swimming event at the 1912 Olympic Games. 
  • He and his friends were known as the famous "Beach Boys of Waikiki" and they are surely the reason for surfing in Hawaii being reborn.
  • Duke became known as a "Hawaiian Legend"and in 1966, Duke was the first person to be inducted into the Surfing Hall of Fame.
  • The yearly surfing contest, the Duke Kahanamoku International Surfing Championship Meet, is held in memory of this surfing legend.

 

    

  For    OLD HAWAIIAN FOOTAGE OF DUKE KAHANAMOKU

 

                                                                       Aloha!

 
This post has been included in Hawaii Information Honolulu County, HI Information

12 Comments on The History of Surfing in Hawaii: Hang Five Braddah!

Sally...  interesting. I don't really follow surfing, but I do know of Duke. Some cool things mention, since I like learning about history. Good job.

                                                                                                             jeff belonger

06/15/2007 10:11 PM by Jeff Belonger -- The FHA Expert.com -- FHA Loans -- FHA mortgages -- Mortgages (Infinity Home Mortgage Company, Inc)

Thanks Jeff: I love old stuff..history, anything...watch History channel as well.

06/15/2007 10:45 PM by Celeste "SALLY" Cheeseman (RA), e-PRO HAWAII Real Estate & HAWAII Relocation (Century 21 Liberty Homes -Mililani, Hawaii)

I have heard of Duke too. I don't know from where, but I have.  I have to watch the History Channel with my husband. That and Sci Fi.  Tonight it was about the legend of Jesse James.

Anyhow, Great post.  How about you? Do you go ride the big waves sometimes?  :)  My daughter wants me to pay $100/hour while we are at Disney World for her to learn how to surf.  I'm glad that we won't really have enough time for that!

06/15/2007 10:53 PM by Stephanie Edwards-Musa, Realtor ® The Woodlands, TX Real Estate (Prudential Gary Greene, Realtors ®)

Steph: My very first boyfriend was a surfer...haha.  That's about it ...watched...that's about the time the movie Jaws came out...too scared to go far out. I refuse to watch Sci Fi ....haha.

06/15/2007 10:56 PM by Celeste "SALLY" Cheeseman (RA), e-PRO HAWAII Real Estate & HAWAII Relocation (Century 21 Liberty Homes -Mililani, Hawaii)

I'm not a big fan of Sci Fi-so I blog during the shows.  :)

06/15/2007 10:59 PM by Stephanie Edwards-Musa, Realtor ® The Woodlands, TX Real Estate (Prudential Gary Greene, Realtors ®)

Great Story Sally,

I always wondered about the origin of surfing, looks like a fun crew.........those darn missionaries are just no fun at all....lol

06/15/2007 11:37 PM by Robert Cramer (Five Star Property Inspections)

I grew up surfing on Long Island in New York (yes, there are waves there periodically).  When I moved to San Diego it was like heaven - surf every day and warmer water!  Never did get to Hawaii and I ended up transitioning to Scuba instead.  Still have my last board in the attic - not sure why...for my kids?

06/16/2007 12:44 AM by Jeff Geoghan MBA - Lancaster PA Real Estate Expert (Coldwell Banker Select Professionals)

Sally,

  As I have previously responded to another blog by you thanks again for sharing part of history with us.  I love to hear and learn about fascinating things.  I have been to Waikiki but didn't try surfing-(I am afraid of fish LOL, especially sharks) so I didn't spend that much time in the water-well in the pool I did.  I did go snorkeling once just to have experienced it-that was great!  Anyway, thank-you for sharing your stories and folk tales with us.

06/16/2007 01:05 AM by Penny Florence (Keller Williams-Salt Lake City)

Great post, I recently added a evening picture of Duke's on Localism.com under Waikiki.

06/16/2007 02:40 AM by Randy L. Prothero - Hawaii REALTOR® (Century 21 Liberty Homes)

Sally great pic..  I was hoping to see a pic of Jack Lord....:-)

06/16/2007 06:11 AM by My Favorite Mortgage.net - Matthew J Blum

Sally - you are truly a queen of localism - love all these posts - so insighful and original - Keep it up - we love it!!!

06/17/2007 01:25 AM by Clearwater Real Estate Clearwater Beach Condos & Homes for Sale- Cyndee Haydon (Belloise Realty)

Robert:  That was cute....and I don't think they had a lot of fun back then. The missionaries stopped hula for awhile as well as surfing.

Jeff:  That's neat. Keep the surfboard. Great to keep for your kids!

Penny:  You're welcome!  I am enjoying telling the tales of our history and culture!

Randy:  This stuff is cool.

Matt:  Funny.  You know he had bodyguards everywhere he went!

Cyndee: That's funny...queen...I'll just do with WooHoo...that's me!

06/17/2007 01:31 AM by Celeste "SALLY" Cheeseman (RA), e-PRO HAWAII Real Estate & HAWAII Relocation (Century 21 Liberty Homes -Mililani, Hawaii)

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Real Estate Agent: Celeste "SALLY" Cheeseman (RA), e-PRO HAWAII Real Estate & HAWAII Relocation (Century 21 Liberty Homes -Mililani, Hawaii)
Celeste "SALLY" Cheeseman (RA), e-PRO HAWAII Real Estate & HAWAII Relocation
Mililani, HI
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