Alabama beaches have all the sun of Florida--without the crowds. The Gulf of Mexico harbors a secret. Follow the finger of the Florida peninsula westward toward the Big Easy. When you get west of Pensacola and cross the state line, X marks the spot where Alabama dips its toe into the warm, emerald- colored waters.
While outsiders may not know Alabama even has a beach, locals and other insiders refer to the area of Gulf Shores/Orange Beach as "the island." 'Bama's beach is actually two barrier islands separated from the mainland by the Intracoastal Waterway and Perdido Bay. It boasts 32 miles of surprisingly solitary stretches of sugar sand, pristine parks, spa spots, and challenging golf. Gulf Shores/Orange Beach also serves up more seashore cuisine combinations than Forrest Gump included in his expansive shrimp list. Just for the record, Alabama's beach is the site of the National Shrimp Festival held annually in October. (This year, Oct. 9-12; nationalshrimpfestival.com.) The beach is also home to a fishing fleet of more than 100 yachts for the catch of the day, or the catch of a lifetime. "While the hush about 'Bama's beaches includes plenty of hush puppies, it's the quiet you'll savor," says Contributing Editor Sharon Cavileer. "Less than an hour's drive from bustling Pensacola and the city of Mobile, Gulf Shores/Orange Beach is blissfully peaceful. With miles of beach and 400,000 acres of inland waterfront, it's liquid tranquility. And it's as picturesque as it is quiet, a series of postcard- pretty images." Imagine shrimp boats silhouetted by a fiery sunset, green waters of the Gulf foaming onto white sand festooned with scarlet, vermillion, and aqua beach umbrellas. Picture a flock of pelicans on the wing, the black backwater beauty of Perdido Bay, and dolphins shimmering silver in the surf. Open space is protected by two expansive parks, one for people, another for wildlife. On Highway 135, Gulf State Park (251-948-7275) contains 6,000 acres of barrier island beauty for camping, hiking, and recreation. It also includes three freshwater lakes that make for fine fishing and birdwatching. On Highway 180, Bon Secours National Wildlife Refuge (251-540-7720) offers habitat for endangered species and respite for migrating birds as well as weary travelers. The trails at Bon Secours are lightly traveled, perfect for solitary strolls. See saw palmettos, live oaks, beach cactus, migrating Monarch butterflies, and 370 species of migrating birds. Bon Secours provides a safe home for the endangered Alabama Beach mouse, a nocturnal creature about the size of your thumb. It also provides nesting space for the rare Ridley Turtle. Before you visit, call for a copy of the Alabama Coastal Birding Trail Guidebook (800-745-SAND) or download it from alabamacoastalbirdingtrail.com to appreciate the differences between a heron and a skimmer. Gulf Shores/Orange Beach is also a fish story. Fresh catches are served 17 ways from Sunday at a host of local restaurants. Or for the pure sport of it, there are more than 100 different charter boats for catching a trophy marlin. Snapper, king and Spanish mackerel, wahoo, and amberjack are plentiful. The Annual Orange Beach Charter Fishing Rodeo draws competitors for prizes, and lots of spectators at the weigh-in. Anyone fishing must hold a saltwater license. That goes for boaters, too. Alabama's water rights extend out three miles. This year's rodeo is Oct. 1-31. For more info, call 800-745-7263. If you hate to fish, but love the water, cruise from Fort Morgan to Dauphin Island on the Mobile Bay Ferry (251- 540-7787). Walk to the Estuarium to see the area's marine creatures without getting wet. Or try a dolphin cruise on Perdido Bay. Take the Blue Dolphin from Orange Beach for comfortable, climate-controlled quarters out of the noonday sun. If the dolphins don't arrive on cue, there's plenty to see on Ono Island, home to the multimillion dollar vacation "cottages" owned by sports and entertainment celebrities on Perdido Bay. Or brave the elements on Sailaway Charters' Miss Janet, an open pontoon boat, to experience tonguing for oysters, throwing a shrimp net, or catching blue crabs. Beyond the beach, 'Bama is about blooms and greens. Blossoms are abundant at the privately owned Minimac Wildflower Bog in Silverhill, home to 300 species in an array of colors and configurations. The bog is open from April to September. For those who love their flora with more order and grandeur, Bellingrath Gardens (bellingrath.org, 215-973- 2217), in Theodore, offers 65 acres of the lushest, loveliest, and most elegant outdoor landscapes in the South. If you love your greens, you'll discover 18 different courses in and around Gulf Shores/Orange Beach. Oceanfront play is a rare delight, so tee off at Kiva Dunes Golf and Beach Club. Located near Fort Morgan where Union Admiral David Farragut shouted "Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead," Kiva Dunes is rated among the top public courses in the state by Golf Digest. The 570-yard 14th hole is a monster at a par five. Soldiers Creek appeals to those who love rolling terrain and TifEagle greens. And both the Gulf Shores Golf Club and Gulf State Park Golf Course call guests to return often for a quick round. History buffs will revel in Fort Morgan at the western end of the barrier island. Located at the mouth of Mobile Bay, the fort was built by Spanish explorers in the 16th century, but served to protect settlers in the early l7th century and during the War of 1812. The best time to see it is on the 7 p.m. candlelight tour held every Tuesday through the summer (251-540-7125). For real Southern flavor, go inland to the town of Magnolia Springs. Spanish moss, Victorian cottages, and mail delivered by boat make for a lovely, languid 19th century afternoon. Sharon suggests lunch (including Key Lime pie) at Jesse's Restaurant next to Moore Brothers' village market. The Beach Club is noted as the best Sunday brunch at the beach, but the spa massages may be even more enjoyable. Intimate, elegant, and well-appointed, the spa at the Beach Club is a must. Try the Swedish massage or an aromatic body wrap. Wander off the beach at your sandiest to chow down at Doc's Seafood Shack. Beer and seafood gumbo are de rigueur. And at the unassuming roadside spot King Neptune's, the succulent oysters, stone crab, and royal red shrimp are among the best anywhere. Bayside Grill draws locals and tourists with its wood grill and festive dockside atmosphere. The combination of Creole and Caribbean cuisine is a winner, and the line for a table starts before sunset. A short drive inland off Highway 59, you'll find the Gulf Shores Baking Company. Although you can't see the water from the suburban location, you can taste it. Try the crab and mango puff pastry and take home something from the bakery for dessert. Other suggestions are Calypso Joe's Fish Grille & Market and the Restaurant at the Beach Club. For an evening libation with the locals, relax at the Pink Pony Pub in Gulf Shores. For those who love whimsy and the parrot-head culture of Jimmy Buffett, head east on Route 182 to the Florida/Alabama state line. A little liquor store grew into the Floribama, a jerry-rigged warren of shacks and patios serving up cold beer, liquid libations, and beach music. It's known for its mullet toss, beach volleyball, and the sand pit arena, where bands play nightly. Although Buffett no longer plays the Floribama, it's the personification of Margaritaville--flowered-shirt funky, laid-back, beachfront fun. Or plunk down on the sand and enjoy the hush, the sea, and the sun. Just don't tell anyone.
Reprinted from Rudy Maxa
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