For 99 years, soon to be 100, Gaido's Restaurant has contributed a great deal to the success of Galveston Island as a popular tourist destination.
It's impossible to extrapolate how many Island businesses have directly benefited by the numbers -- often 2,500 a day -- who have been drawn to visit the city in anticipation to being able to have a meal or two at Gaido's. The Gaido family has just released a well-done, slick cookbook. It tells many of the stories of that restaurant and the people who made it what it would become.
But what is more important, the reader can actually closely follow the many recipes, and be able to have their own authentic Gaido's Experience at home. Say you loved their stuffed blue-shell crabs. The recipe is there. What about their salad dressings? Their Gumbo? They're there.
From the cookbook, here are the business biographies of some of the most talented Gaido's employees of long standing. -- Bill Cherry
James Peques
Raised on the plains of West Texas, Galveston was his first stop after a 4 year tour of duty in the United States Army. His career at Gaido's began as an apprentice to Luther Cotton, Gaido'slegendary Fry Station Chef. When at last the opportunity came to assume command of the "hot corner", his performance was exceptional, drawing comparison to his retired tutor and mentor. Years later, when Wade Watkins succeeded Charles Brooks as Executive Chef, he left the front line to become Wade's assistant, strong right arm and heir apparent. Warm, funny, with the lyrics of a country song or the play by play of a Monday night game often on his lips, he was nonetheless all business when it was time to do business. Built like a prototype NFL linebacker and able to assume an intimidating demeanor when the occasion demanded, and was the perfect gatekeeper for Gaido's kitchen deliveries. He knew fresh seafood and was absolutely determined that Gaido'sstandards of quality could not and would not be compromised. Shrimpers, fishermen, and all manner of seafood purveyors understood that sneaking less than the best past "Mr. Piggy" was like trying to sneak the rising sun past a rooster. His untimely death left nine children who loved him dearly and a restaurant family who will never forget him.
Wade Watkins
A native Texan from Leon County, Wade came east to Galveston in 1948 after a start in the food service industry in San Antonio. He took a chance when he joined Gaido's, knowing that he might be laid off during the off-season. Wade not only survived that first winter but soon became an indispensable part of the kitchen and, ultimately, Gaido's Executive Chef. His exemplary forty-four year career spanned three generations of the Gaidofamily. With an imposing physical stature, massive hands, rugged good looks and an easy laugh, he was a natural leader. Through that leadership and by his example, Gaido's kitchen reflected his own performance and work ethic. Affectionately and respectfully known throughout his career as "Big Daddy," his influence endures through his recipes, especially his famous Shrimp Bisque.
Charles Brooks
A native of Louisiana, he moved to Galveston at an early age. He worked at 38th and Seawall Boulevard at Deppen'sDrive Inn before joining the Armed Forces for WWII. Discharged in 1945, he began a distinguished half-century career with the Gaido family. Respected and admired in the community for his character and success, loved by the extended family that he mentored and sustained, known simply as "Chef" to the thousands employed at Gaido's during his remarkable tenure. Soft spoken and slow to anger, but unquestionably in command, his influence endures through his recipes, especially his famous Seafood Gumbo.
Madie Kimble
She was a woman in a man's kitchen but she was never intimidated. With an infectious smile, a totally disarming giggle, and cat that swallowed the canary grin, no one could resist Madie's charm. She was every employee's restaurant mother and when her restaurant children hurt Madie cried. She was totally in her element on Saturday nights and as the orders poured in you could hear her echo grow louder and shriller as the shift wore on. When the pressure was on, however, she could work culinary miracles for rookies "in flames" especially when a new waitress whispering through tears explained that she had forgotten to order a stuffed flounder. Gone but not forgotten, we at Gaido's who shared Madie withthe world remember how good she was at what she did, her laughter and her tears, but most of all how much better we felt about ourselves when we were with her.
Tom Ponzini
Recruited out of the Conrad Hilton School of Hotel and Restaurant management Tom quickly became an absolutely indispensable part of Gaido's kitchen. Astonishingly focused and committed for someone so young it was Tom who planned and inaugurated Gaido's In House Bakery and all of the bread and the most famous dessert recipes are his own creations. Willing to spend a year abroad to further hone his culinary skills, Tom was selected the outstanding student in his class at La Varenne in Paris where he first conceived the recipe for Gaido'sShrimp Bisque, for which he is best known. With a long and prosperous career in food service firmly within his grasp, Tom chose to hear God's call and is now a deeply respected and much loved Roman Catholic priest. Though sorely missed in the kitchen, the Gaido family could not be prouder of Father Tom.
Jesse Castillamade
Tradewinds bartender, Gaido's sommelier and eventual maitre d' hotel, Jesse Castillamade all the stops on the way to becoming the very first Pelican Club manager and the experience served him well. Confident and polished, he had a phenomenal memory for names. There was absolutely nothing that transpired in any dining room that surprised or flustered him and his completely unflappable demeanor especially in stressful situations calmed the staff and comforted the guests. Jesse and Elizabeth Rhyne were the welcoming and familiar faces of the Pelican Club in its early years and helped set the Pelican Club standard for professional yet personal service.
Leroy Hardeman
Hired from the Jack Tar Hotel when it closed its doors, Leroy Hardeman quickly found a new home in Gaido's Sautéstation, but it wasn't long before his day-in-and-day-out performance and professionalism prompted a trial at Kitchen manager to see if he also possessed the organizational and leadership skills necessary to successfully cross over to the other side of the counter. He not only exceeded all expectations that first month, but continued to do so for his entire career and in so doing led as productive, consistent, and quality-oriented kitchen as any in Gaido'slong history, until chronic knee problems forced his premature retirement and ultimately contributed to his untimely death. Leroy was disciplined, committed, resourceful, and very, very bright. The Gaido family is deeply grateful for his exemplary leadership and continues to mourn the premature loss of so respected a Kitchen Manager but can't help but speculate that in a more enlightened age he might not have made an exemplary Texas governor or United States Senator.
Jesse Castilla
Born in Bolivia and educated at the Conrad Hilton School of Restaurant and Hotel Management, Julio Yucraspent his entire professional career at the Pelican Club until his untimely death. He was a customer favorite from his very first day and that is hardly surprising given his genuine warmth, grace under fire, impeccable personal appearance, and seemingly effortless Continental charm. Julio was an extraordinary host and for an entire generation symbolized the southern hospitality and personal attention that made the Pelican Club world famous. Though suffering from an incurable illness and racked with pain he nonetheless chose to "work the floor" until he was no longer able to stand. Astonishingly, throughout his ordeal he not only rejected self pity but somehow found a way to smile. For the Gaido family and staff Julio was a one of a kind comrade-at-arms, a once in a lifetime blessing. He will never leave our thoughts, never leave our prayers, and never leave our hearts.
Elizabeth Rhyne
If there was ever a restaurant patron saint for "swamped" waiters and the parents of cranky babies it was Miss Liz. She was respected and admired by every employee because she coupled total professionalism with warmth and consideration for others, especially servers "in the weeds." She was every inch a lady in language, style, and demeanor, and a sight to behold arriving in her Church best on Sunday mornings. Her winning smile, gracious manner, and totally irresistible charm endeared her to generations of Pelican Club members. Parents dining with their small children were frequently surprised and always sublimely grateful when Miss Liz deftly kidnapped cranky little ones from their high chairs and booster seats for a tour of the dining room and kitchen in her arms.
BILL CHERRY, REALTORS
DALLAS - PARK CITIES
Since 1964
214 503-8563
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