There was once a time when houses could be neglected in many ways and not suffer the way they will today if neglected.  This became less true as soon as we started to insulate our homes to save energy.

Inefficient older homeThe interiors of older homes, for all intents and purpose, communicated very well with the exterior.  

They were drafty.  

This draftiness allowed for a sort of built-in means of changing the air on a regular basis.  In fact the air changes were more or less continuous.  The key to saving energy was to figure out a way of stopping these air changes.

So we started, insulating, and taping, and insulating, and caulking, and insulating, and vapor sealing---and then insulating some more.  The result was that we started having houses that were very successful at stopping air movement and we no longer had to spend 1/2 the year cutting wood to heat them.  

But along with this saving of ax handles, energy and money came an unanticipated cost.  

Poor indoor air quality.  

Poor indoor air quality manifested itself in the trapping of all sorts of nasty particulates inside the home.  Chemicals out-gassing from interior components and furnishings, dust from pets and human occupants, and the growth of mold due to elevated moisture levels and poor circulation, were just some of the things became trapped in the home.  There was also the byproducts of combustion related to fossil fuels and solid fuels burned in the home.  Many other sources of indoor air pollution contributed to this soup of poor indoor air:  air fresheners, incense, candles, detergents, hair spray, paints etc.

So as a result, after figuring out that we could indeed stop air movement altogether, we figured out that it was a very bad idea and that we better figure out a way to have "controlled" air movement.  

In modern homes we provide a way  to mechanically ventilate the home---to provide air changes.  

Every time we turn on an exhaust fan, we are removing air from the home and "theoretically" we are pulling fresh air into the home somewhere else.  These fans can, and should, be placed on timers to maintain ventilation according to predetermined times.  Usually leakage around doors and windows will suffice as a place for fresh air to be pulled into the home.  

Newer more efficient homeModern doors and windows however, are so well weatherstripped and constructed, that very little air leaks into the home at these points and when we turn the fans on they literally do not pull as much air from the home as they should be and the home experiences negative pressure.  Air can then be pulled into the home through the other exhaust fan locations (the dampers in these fans will still let some air by) or down the b-vent chimneys or the fireplace chimneys.  I think everyone can appreciate that using the furnace b-vent as an air intake is not a good idea.  It will also result in air being pulled under the baseboards or around crawl space hatches, leaving that characteristic "black ghosting" that everyone worries is mold---but is in fact just dirt being filtered by the carpet as air comes and goes from the building.

Because of this we want to provide actual locations where the air can come-and-go from the home whenever the indoor environment is placed under positive or negative pressure.  Sometimes this is done by little vents in the windows or walls or by automatic dampers that are part of an air intake into the forced air heating system.  Most structures deal fairly well with small pressure differentials but when they become great enough, moisture vapor can be pulled or pushed to places we don't want moisture to be.

With two or three bathroom exhaust fans, the kitchen range hood, the gas furnace/water heater, and the dryer all running at the same time we can create quite a bit of negative pressure and that air that is being exhausted has to come from somewhere.

The vast majority of homes in the United States have inadequate means of balancing the air that is being exhausted.

It is not rocket science as to why so many homes suffer from air quality issues right along with their occupants.

Perhaps the best way of all to manage this air exchange is to install an HRV or Heat Recovery Ventilator.  These are great because as they exhaust air from the home the outgoing air stream passes over the incoming air stream so that the warm air leaving the home can heat up the cold air coming in---and visa versa in Summer.  Of course the air is filtered in the process as well.

In the State of Washington we are lucky enough to have an Energy Code that is very specific about the installation of these air exchange systems.  Even if you live in a state without an energy code (or perhaps especially if you don't), I consider it prudent to not only ask the following question but to understand its answer:  "When I turn on an exhaust fan in my home, how is fresh air getting in to replace the air that is leaving?"  If you cannot answer that question or did not even know that the question should be asked, you may not adequately understand how to take care of your house and your home may be at risk of poor indoor air quality.

While there are other important things to know, it is the control of the air changes in the home that is perhaps the single most important thing that every owner (or tenant) of a modern home needs to understand---and yet, based on my experience as a home inspector, very few do.

A home inspector with some training in building science (and shouldn't they all?) can help you access how your home is functioning and/or how it should be functioning.

P.S.  Today, Reuben Saltzman and I were on the same page in terms of this topic---please see his post about insulating your rim joists.  In that post there is a link about Combustion & Makeup Air that is very important no matter what state you live in.  It provides very good infomration that covers what I talk about in this post but in much greater detail.



Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

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87 Comments on What is the single most important thing you need to know about the modern home you live in?

20 Most Recent Comments Displayed Show All

DEC
14
2011
482,741 Points 15 Featured Posts Localism Sponsor Outside Blog Attended Rain Camp Called Shot Master

Charles -- I have heard many, many times that indoor air quality can be worse than exterior, polluted air.  The concentration of indoor dust, mold and other contaminants in a closed up house can contribute to many health maladies.  I still keep my windows open (slightly)  in the cold temps. Have to have some 'fresh' air in the house.

2:38pm • #68
172,072 Points 2 Featured Posts Outside Blog Attended Rain Camp

Great point.  We've just secured for the listing for the first multi-family Passive House to be built in the United States.  If you're going to use an HRV though, don't you really need to focus first on making the structure truly air tight?

2:53pm • #69
925,953 Points 185 Featured Posts Outside Blog Attended Rain Camp Called Shot Master

Patricia, you are welcome---and you have been a fan for quite some time---thanks

Derrick, well it can---air exchange systems can be as inexpensive as a bathroom fan with timer or a whole house HRV.

Gene, even natural materials can be a problem in a tight house

Marshall, glad you enjoyed both Reuben and my posts

Barbara, that is probably not a bad idea

Mike and Kate, I would love to hear more about your listing.  In 1979 I built a passive solar duplex.

3:46pm • #70
597,529 Points 110 Featured Posts Outside Blog Called Shot Master

Before the County Commissioners fired the building department, we were subjected to the Northwest Energy Code. The result was some houses with such a mold problem that it could be seen from the exterior.

Too much of a good thing is just that... too much!

9:13pm • #71
143,693 Points Attended Rain Camp

Dear Charles,

Would you install these in a bathroom instead of a regular fan? I have been thinking of this idea for some time, because the exhaust pipes for my relatively new bathroom fans are pretty long, which means that the heat dissipates on its way out, but no fresh air is pulled in. For my dryer, I have the reverse problem. The pipe is so short, that I have to keep the door shut or cold air will blow in via the dryer in the winter (northwest facing). Using these exchange fans sounds like a great idea to solve both problems (dryer vent could be extended to vent higher in the wall for example). Is that how it would work? For the dryer, it might be possible to do a passive system with a regular vent hose inside a slightly larger pipe, so that the cold air from outside can fall in the pipe, while the hot air in the hose rises in the middle. Maybe that makes no sense, since I have no clue about fluid or gas dynamics, but maybe you do.

11:26pm • #72
DEC
15
2011
296,446 Points 3 Featured Posts Outside Blog Attended Rain Camp

We spend so much time inside a home, we definitely need to pay attention to the indoor air quality. Great post!

8:35am • #73
232,043 Points 8 Featured Posts Outside Blog

This is really good information that I hadn't really thought about. We spend a lot of time worrying about keeping the bad stuff out of our homes, but not nearly as much time worrying about what we might be trapping inside. Definitely food for thought annd important issues to start considering.

8:40am • #74
925,953 Points 185 Featured Posts Outside Blog Attended Rain Camp Called Shot Master

Marte, as long as we are putting insulation and better windows and doors in our homes the need for people to understand what can happen will be necessary.  Unfortunately having the information int he codes is likely the only way that some assurance that what is necessary will get done.

Dorte, an HRV would not be in place of the bathroom exhaust fan.  Point of use exhaust fans are generally about moisture control and still need to be there---some means of replacing the exhausted bathroom air still has to be allowed for.  In older homes it finds a way.  In newer homes, specific locations should be provided.  While the "passive idea" is great thinking, in your climate great care would have be taken to prevent icing up of the intake.  HRV's in cold climates have dampers and ways of heating up the air intake prior to allowing the cold air to pass by the outgoing air.  A little complicated---sorry.  Is your dryer vent cap at the exterior in good condition?  Single flap type?  You should not have backdrafting.

Sylvia, thanks

Charlie, thanks---and something we all will have to think more about as time goes by.

11:11am • #75
512,082 Points 13 Featured Posts Outside Blog Called Shot Master

Hi Charles,  i guess this also explains the season flu and other ailments that predominate northern climates vs southern!

7:45pm • #76
925,953 Points 185 Featured Posts Outside Blog Attended Rain Camp Called Shot Master

Bob, that might be a safe bet but I think in the South lots of houses stay closed up due to air conditioning.

8:00pm • #77
DEC
16
2011

Hi Charles, in about 3 months my new home some 500 m from the Indian Ocean will be completed ~ there's gonna be plenty of cool breezes...You're full on,  aerisation is both important for the structure of the house as well as for healthy living. You touched great parameters. Thank you! Good post. Peter

Peter Michelbach
7:20am • #78
366,017 Points 3 Featured Posts Outside Blog Called Shot Master

Charles

Thanks for a great post and some useful info but all I can say is thank God for the weather in the Napa Valley. Granted too dry here lately, but it will be 60 degrees here today and gorgeously sunny. Been this way for the last two weeks except for two days of some light rain and is forecast to be this way for the next 10 - 15 days. cheers cvc

12:33pm • #80
709,084 Points 39 Featured Posts Outside Blog Called Shot Master

Great info, I've learned alot. Went over & looked at the rim joist posts also.

3:51pm • #81
925,953 Points 185 Featured Posts Outside Blog Attended Rain Camp Called Shot Master

Curtis, it sound nice

Lyn thanks---yes Reuben and I were on the same wave length that day :)

5:03pm • #82
143,693 Points Attended Rain Camp

Dear Charles,

Our dryer has no damper outside. The dryer is right next to the outside wall & the pipe very short. Hence, you have to shut the door to the dryer in the winter, so it does not blow cold air on a blustery day. Maybe a redesign is in order. How & where do you use the devices that you described?

11:21pm • #83
DEC
17
2011
925,953 Points 185 Featured Posts Outside Blog Attended Rain Camp Called Shot Master

Dorte, without a backdraft damper on the outside cold air will be sucked back into the house through the dryer whenever you turn on a vent fan anywhere else in the house---or even when you open a door for that matter:)  If you do a google images search for dryer vent caps you will see tons of images of the different kinds.  An HRV is another whole matter---you need a backdraft damper on the dryer vent regardless.

12:11am • #84
JAN
04
2012
415,762 Points Outside Blog

As a former builder I addressed most of these issues on every house we buy. With home ownership there is always something shotty or something that needs fixing.

7:52pm • #85
925,953 Points 185 Featured Posts Outside Blog Attended Rain Camp Called Shot Master

Winston, I hear you---sometimes I just want to pack up and go rent a condo somwhere :)

8:08pm • #86
JAN
15
2012

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Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

Charles Buell, Seattle Home Inspector

Seattle, WA

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Charles Buell Inspections.com

Address: Seattle, Shoreline, Everett, Lynnwood, Bothel, Kirkland, Bellevue, Mercer Island, Edmonds, Renton, King County, 17123 22nd Ave NE, Shoreline (Seattle), WA, 98155

Office Phone: (206) 478-7371

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