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I visited ground zero in October 2003. It was such a moving experience. I remember standing there in silence with tears flowing down my face. We then moved to the south side of the site to see the "bathtub" better. (The bathtub was built to hold back the river water from the underground levels) The construction of the subway was going on and there was a some shining gleaming metal that was such a sign of hope.
The other most striking thing was the tourists. You could tell every American that was there. We were silent like we were walking on sacred ground. We looked at the displays and read quietly. The non-American visitors were easily spotted. They had cameras out taking pictures of each other in front of the displays and were much more vocal. That has always stuck with me.