Pressure Tanks, Well Tanks & Storage tanks

                             PRESSURE TANKS, WELL TANKS, STORAGE TANKS

Pressure tanks, holding tanks, storage tanks, well tanks, water tanks etc. etc. etc.  There are many different names that well system pressure tanks are recognized by.  None of the nomenclature is wrong...but the reality is; pressure tanks are the "pressure regulators" of private water well systems.

Pressure tanks don't hold large volumes of water.  The largest residential bladder style pressure tank holds approximately 36 gallons when completely full.  Unfortunately, 36 gallons doesn't go very far when you're out of power for a week!  This unfortunate reality has recently been acknowledged by many a well owner after hurricane Sandy came to visit. 

The primary function of a well or pressure tank is to keep submersible pump cycling to a minimum.  Submersible well pumps heat up as a result of the starting torque of the motor.  The water that the pump - pumps; is also the water that cools the pump.  Therefore; once started - a submersible well pump should run for at least a minute to allow for adequate cooling.  Pumps over 1 hp require even longer pump cycles.   If a pressure tank is too small or has "failed"...the frequent starting and stopping of the pump will soon cause pump failure. 

Before the advent of the bladder type tanks with captive air cells; hydropnuematic tanks were the standard offering in the private water well marketplace.  Some homes are still serviced with this type of tank.  An easily distinguishable characteristic of the galvanized well tank is the bare "page fence" metal finish on the outside of the tank.  The undesirable aspects of this tank are many. 

Galvanized tanks offer no physical separation of air and water within the tank.  This can lead to the oxidation of dissolved metals in the water which can increase staining, cause colorization of the water, and promote bad tastes.  The oxidized metals will also create a layer of sludge at the bottom of the tank which eventually can lead to pressure switch issues and reduced tank performance efficiency.  Sometimes; it is not possible to simply remove a galvanized tank and replace it with a bladder tank.  The good news is that there are now fiberglas tanks designed to retrofit installs that originally included galvanized tanks.  These tanks do still allow for air and water contact - but the corrosion and leaching concerns are eliminated.

Pressure tanks should be "balanced" periodically to ensure the proper amount of pressurized air is in the tank which will optimize the pump cycle.  A ruptured bladder is the silent killer of well pumps.  A simple check any homeowner can do is tap on the tank.  The bottom of the tank should sound solid.  The top half to two thirds should sound hollow.  If the pressure tank sounds solid at the top...the bladder may be ruptured...or it may need to be serviced.  This should be done ASAP because a ruptured bladder will lead to pump failure!