Where to stay: No need to scrimp on space here. It's easy to score a three-bedroom house a block from the beach for $1,500 to $2,000 a week -- and that's during the peak month of July. Shorewood Real Estate Inc. calls such rentals "semi-oceanfront." (We stayed at "Zanzibar," a three-bedroom home with a deck overlooking the ocean, outdoor shower and lots of space, for $1,325. For more information check out shorewoodrealestate.net or call Tel. 888-557-0172.) Homes with pools cost a few hundred dollars more, but would be nice to have when the Atlantic Ocean undertow kicks up.

If you prefer a condo, there are several developments from which to choose, such as Pier Pointe, with a pool, tennis courts and outdoor grills as well as Jacuzzi tubs and fireplaces. Rentals are handled by various real-estate companies, such Prudential Sun-Surf Realty (Tel. 800-553-7873, sun-surf.com). It rents Pier Pointe 4-A-1W, a two-bedroom, two-bath oceanfront unit at 2907 Pointe West Dr., for $1,495 a week in midsummer.

Tim Frederick

A surfing class run by Hot Wax Surf Shop.

What to do: The wide, pristine beach is the main draw, with tidal pools, frolicking dolphins, scallop shells and crabs providing a daily show. The massive waves may tempt you into a surfing lesson ($60 for a three-hour lesson, including board rental; Hot Wax Surf Shop, 200 Mallard Dr., Tel. 252-354-6466, hotwaxsurf.com). Go to the North Carolina Aquarium, nearby in Pine Knoll Shores, to see a "Living Shipwreck" exhibit (open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, $8 for adults and $6 for kids 6-17, 1 Roosevelt Blvd., Tel. 252-247-4003, ncaquariums.org). Then head into Beaufort, a historic fishing village, founded in 1709 and inhabited by Blackbeard, to dine and shop while watching boats at the docks. Duck into the North Carolina Maritime Museum, which has free admission, to learn more about boats, fishing and pirate shipwrecks (315 Front St., Tel. 252-728-7317, www.ncmaritime.org). Kids and dads are fans of the bumper boats at Professor Hacker's Lost Treasure Golf and Raceway, a short bike ride away (967 Salter Path Rd., which is Highway 58, Tel. 252-247-3024, losttreasuregolf.com).

Tim Frederick

Where to eat: Don't miss the shrimpburger -- fried popcorn shrimp, coleslaw, tartar sauce and ketchup on a bun -- at the Big Oak Drive-In and Bar-B-Q (Highway 58 in Salter Path, Tel. 252-247-2588, www.bigoakdrivein.com). Circle Pizza & Subs makes a tasty, take-out pie (3104 Ocean Dr., Tel. 252-354-8885). Flipperz Family Bar & Grill is a fun hangout with delicious seafood salads and burgers (299 Mangrove Dr., Tel. 252-354-7775, www.flipperz.net).

For a Southern seafood dinner, complete with hushpuppies and sweet tea, head to Frost Seafood House (1299 Salter Path Rd., Tel. 252-247-3202). There's ice cream and eccentric tchotchkes to take home at Flip Flops (3305 Emerald Dr., Tel. 252-354-3446). When it's time to man the grill yourself, stock up on the daily catch at Cap'n Willis Seafood Market (7803 Emerald Dr., Tel. 252-354-2500). The pancakes can't be beat at Mike's Place (8302 Emerald Dr., Tel. 252-354-5277).