A recent, and ongoing, discussion with another home inspector here at Active Rain about water heaters reminded me that I have a picture of a temperature and pressure relief (TPR) drain pipe terminating in a small jar (Figure 1).

TPR drain pipe  Figure 1.

What happens with the TPR valve (yellow arrow in Figure 2) and the TPR drain pipe (red arrows in
Figure 2) at the water heaters is that if the water pressure or the water temperature inside the water heater gets too high, the TPR valve opens to let hot water under high pressure exit the water heater. That action lowers the water pressure and the temperature, returning things to a safer condition.

TPR valve and drain pipe  Figure 2.

Generally, the drain pipe should be kept as short as possible with the termination 6-12 inches above ground level.

If water is draining, or has drained, from the TPR drain pipe, it typically means one of three things:

  1. the water pressure in the water heater is or was too high,
  2. the temperature of the water in the water heater is or was too high, or
  3. the TPR valve is defective.

All three of those are dangerous conditions and can result in a water heater exploding. We've had a couple of water heater explosions here in San Diego since 2001. I went out and looked at the results of one where the 2,500-SF, 2-story home had been reduced to a 1,500-SF, 1 story home, and they found the water heater a half mile away on top of two cars in a strip mall parking lot. This video shows the result of a recent water heater explosion in a house in Phoenix.

Many jurisdictions allow the TPR drain pipe to terminate outside, but I think that's a dangerous location for several reasons:

  1. Bugs can build nests in the pipe, or small critters can crawl up in the pipe, and clog it. My readers know that I love bugs and critters, so I want their homes to be safe as well, and this ain't it if a blast of hot water comes out of that thing!
  2. If the TPR valve operates, you need to know about it. The only way you'll know is if you see the water. If the termination is outside, any water that has drained can soak into the ground or evaporate into the air before you ever see it. Not good.
  3. Professionals from other industries might not know what that little pipe is and block it with their work. A great example is shown in Figure 3 where the concrete professionals installed a sidewalk too high, blocking the TPR drain pipe. I've also seen the stucco guys come along and stucco right over it "since it's not connected to anything out here."

 Blocked TPR drain pipe  Figure 3.

I advise my Clients to have the TPR drain pipe terminate at the bottom of the water heater and then place a 5-gallon metal pail under the termination. Each time they walk by the water heater, look in the metal pail to see if there is any water. If there is, and the kids haven't been having water balloon fights, or you can't justify the presence of water any other way, call a plumber to check it out. Better to be safe than sorry.

In the two times that the TPR valve has opened on water heaters in my properties, both of them released only a few gallons of water, which is why I recommend that 5-gallon pail. It doesn't take much water and pressure release to lower the water pressure and temperature. Of course, if it opens regularly, such as during the week you're on vacation, you could come back to find half of your house gone or lots of water damage, so remember to turn the water heater thermostat to the low or vacation setting if you leave for more than a weekend.

In fact, it would be safest if you turned the thermostat down if you're gone for more than 24 hours. When I was young, whenever we went away for the weekend, we always unplugged the TV (so that a good ol' afternoon lightning storm wouldn't send a nice bolt through the television) and turned off the water heater and water.

I know that many home inspectors claim to find leaking TPR valves all the time, but it's been my experience that the only leaking valves are the ones that the home inspector has tested. I don't operate valves during an inspection because those that don't get used regularly (your outside hose bib gets used regularly) often fail when they are used. Since I'm not a licensed plumber, I can't make plumbing repairs, and except for my TECH inspections, I don't have a licensed plumber with me at the inspection. Additionally, I do a lot of inspections outside of plumbers' business hours, so if I cause a plumbing problem and have to call a plumber for an emergency, I'm going to be charged double-time after-hours rates. No thank you.

So while the termination and jar in Figure 1 might have the theory right, the termination is still too low to the ground (it should be 6-12 inches high) and the small jar is too small to hold a few gallons of water.

San Diego Gas & Electric and licensed plumbers recommend that all gas valves and water valves be tested annually, so if it cannot be proved (and it never can in homes being sold) that all the valves have been tested within the last 12 months, it's time for the seller to do it now if he wants to provide a safe home for the seller to move into.

 
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11 Comments on You mean that little jar will hold all that water?

SEP
21
2008

good info, and I doubt that little jar will hold all that water!

5:48am • #1
526,831 Points 25 Featured Posts Outside Blog

Russel, Don't they require expansion tanks out there in new water heater installations out there? An expansion tank will alleviate that problem...

6:00am • #2
135,449 Points

Great information.  Thank you.  I'm going to pass this information on in my next newsletter.

6:40am • #3
239,191 Points 2 Featured Posts Outside Blog

Holy cow.  A lot of people don't realize the pressure inside a water heater when you heat that water.

7:57am • #4
177,925 Points Outside Blog

The water jar is just a portal into the rabbit hole.  I can't believe you missed that.

10:41am • #5
554,420 Points 10 Featured Posts Outside Blog

Hey, Michael.

No, they don't. That's the "recent, and ongoing, discussion with another home inspector here at Active Rain."

In the case of my two water heaters, the thermostats had failed. In my 43 years in real estate, those are the only two instances of water draining from the pipe, and I've only seen one expansion tank in those same years, which caught me off guard because I didn't have a clue at the time of what it was.

12:04pm • #6
582,142 Points 18 Featured Posts Outside Blog


Russel,

The issue of it being outside is sure different than around here. Codes,  enforced here, make it mandatory that it go outside unless there is some reason it cannot....for example if it is in a basement or garage and would be routed up in order to do so. In some situations, to get around that, they actually come up with a system of pressure relief that gets around that, a combination of a couple different valves. I rarely see that but Charlie knows all the ins and outs, more common in Seattle. In older houses we sometimes see the valve at a heater inside a closet or utility room. In those cases I recommend that the drain go out at a point when the tank is replaced, or at least put a pan under it with a drain. That is something we see more and more of, a pan under the tank, TPR drain over the pan, with an air-gap, between the two. Not a bad arrangement as long as the drain line is rated from hot water.

You are fortunate with the expansion tank scenario. Maybe it also has to do with water pressure in your area being as low as 40 PSI. Here we use 50 to 60. While I would not say it is frequent, I see the TPR dripping, when there is no expansion tank, maybe once every 50 inspections at old houses. But, when I see the reducer and no such tank, I look for that too.

Here is a photo of a fix similar to yours. In this case, it was at an older house in the garage. I am sure the slight but periodic discharge was due to thermal expansion as the system heated.

1:34pm • #7
554,420 Points 10 Featured Posts Outside Blog

Hey, Steven.

Here's our idea of routing the drain pipe up. LOL

Water heater TPR drain

DISCLAIMER: The above installation is wrong, just plain wrong. Since we have no emoticons or smileys here at Active Rain, I used "LOL" in my text, which means "laughing out loud" for the unknowing.

1:46pm • #8
582,142 Points 18 Featured Posts Outside Blog

Russel,

Yes, I saw one, at one house, where it hooked into the garden hose and that was curled up on the floor, all 100 ft of it.

2:20pm • #9
582,142 Points 18 Featured Posts Outside Blog

Russel,

I found this curious too, your area vs expansion tanks. Found some San Diego info at the Terry Love plumbing forum, which I have browsed before. Seems to be plumber's speaking or answering questions for the public. You might find it interesting as far as what the plumbers say for your area.

http://www.terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18134

 

5:00pm • #10
554,420 Points 10 Featured Posts Outside Blog

Hey, Steven.

I'll check it out as time permits. It has been my experience that people online are often of the "do as I say, not as I do" variety.

What I really want to find out is why the city inspectors are not requiring them, especially in new construction since all of them have pressure regulators. I know that if the city inspectors are not requiring something, then it's not going to get done around here. This County, and most areas in Southern California where I've done inspections, are not of the "let's do more than required" mold.

6:48pm • #11

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Russel Ray, San Diego home inspector

San Diego, CA

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Russel Ray, Property Consultant

Address: 7000-31 Saranac Street, La Mesa, CA, 91941-3315

Office Phone: (619) 341-0173

Cell Phone: (619) 341-0173

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