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Roof Ventilation is a major issue in Massachusetts Home Inspections

By
Home Inspector with Massachusetts Home Inspections MA. License#566

One of the most common problems I encounter in the majority of my home inspections is the lack of attic ventilation. Attic / roof ventilation is probably the least understood requirement necessary for achieving a healthy home in Massachusetts. Most people don't understand the full meaning and benefits of good attic ventilation. There is also a lack of understanding of how to size and position roof vents for an adequate air flow under the roof cavity. I see brand new roofing shingles installed (on a daily basis) which lacks proper ventilation. Roofers simply are not installing vents which cause 20 year shingles to deteriorate within 8-10 years.

Proper ventilation is absolutely necessary and vital, not only to the health and well being of every home, but also to every home's occupant. Anyone who has been in an attic knows that attics get hot! If the heat in the attic is allowed to sit there, it will conduct heat into the house, or, at the very least, prevent the heat in the house from escaping. Without adequate ventilation you will encounter problems such as rapid shingle deterioration, mold throughout the attic, wood rot, mildew, peeling exterior paint, rusty nails, energy losses, and other problems are often the direct result of inadequate attic ventilation. Wood boring insects such as Termites and Carpenter Ants are attracted to moisture buildup that is often caused by any inadequate ventilation.

Ironically, improving ventilation conditions can often be accomplished with low to moderate cost expenditures. Once my clients understand the problems associated with poor ventilation, there is usually a willingness to make these improvements as soon as they move into their new home. When there is significant damage from poor ventilation such as delaminated roof sheathing with substantial mold or mildew buildup, improving the ventilation becomes secondary to repairing the damage.

The most economical answer to this problem is to ventilate the attic. Moving air through the attic will absolutely reduce the temperature. Most homes have passive attic ventilation in the form of a ridge vent at the peak of the roof, soffit vents in the eaves of the home and gable end vents at the top outside gable ends of the home, or some combination of these vents. Turbine and or roof vents (passive vents that penetrate the roof) are often used as a simple fix for older roofs with inadequate ventilation. The problem with passive vents is that they require some driving force - wind or temperature differential (hot air rising) - to move the hot air within the attic. Usually the hottest days of the year are the stillest, with little or no wind. Temperature differential doesn't have much energy, so it is slow. Just when you need venting the most, the vents work least effectively. There is also the installation problem. If your roof cavity was designed without sufficient attic ventilation, adding additional passive vents may be impractical.

 

There are two types of air vents that I always highly recommend: 1.) inlet air vents, also known as Soffit vents and 2.) outlet air vents, also known as Ridge vents. Having only one or the other type of vent is the equivalent of having neither vent at all. Therefore, to obtain proper attic/roof ventilation, both types of vents must be present, and in equal amounts of net free air flow.

Another very important detail to these particular vents is to make sure there are fire-proof styrofoam baffles properly installed between the insulation and the roof sheathing. These baffles will maintain the air flow by preventing the insulation from blocking this vent area. See "STYROFOAM BAFFLE" below.

 

1.) SOFFIT VENT (Allows outside air to enter the attic/roof cavity)

 

 

2.) RIDGE VENT (allows air to properly exit attic/roof cavity)

 

PROPER INSTALLATION OF THESE VENTS AND BAFFLES WILL RESULT IN PERFECT AIR FLOW THROUGHOUT THE ATTIC/ROOF CAVITY.

 

If your house doesn't have soffits or overhangs and the roof stops at the wall, you can vent the lower edge of your roof with a "starter" vent also known as a "drip-edge vent". This will perform just as well as a soffit vent, but remember to install the baffles as shown above

DRIP-EDGE VENT

 

If your roofer is installing new shingles on your home, please do yourself a favor and make sure the ventilation is adequately installed.

Comments(21)

Matthew Steger, ACI
WIN Home Inspection Elizabethtown - Lancaster, PA

Good info.  Also, improper attic ventilation can void your shingle's warranty.

According to  CertainTeed, if ridge and soffit venting is added, other vent types (like gable vents, pan vents, etc.) must be removed or covered up.  Not doing so can create hot spots and prevents a uniform air flow from soffit to ridge.  This will also void the shingle warranty.  This is taken directly from Certainteed's Master Shingle Applicator guide.

Jun 22, 2007 09:49 AM
Charles Buell
Charles Buell Inspections Inc. - Seattle, WA
Seattle Home Inspector
Hey Dave, I know you don't see a lot of skip sheathing over there on the "right-hand side" but have you ever seen houses without overhangs that has been vented with ridge vent material?  Sometimes the roofer will remove the first skip-sheathing board and replace it with ridge vent material and the new plywood sheathing is installed over the original skip sheathing and the ridge vent.  Interesting way of achieving soffit venting I thought. 
Jan 09, 2008 05:35 AM
David Valley
Massachusetts Home Inspections - Methuen, MA
Massachusetts Home Inspections

Charles,

 

Sounds like what I have on the lower image...Drip edge vents are installed on roofs with no eaves.

Jan 09, 2008 06:28 AM
Charles Buell
Charles Buell Inspections Inc. - Seattle, WA
Seattle Home Inspector

Dave, it accomplishes the same thing but looks like this:

Roof edge vent

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Sorry but I had to "fiddle" with picture to get the ridge vent material to show up in the picture.

Jan 09, 2008 07:46 AM
David Valley
Massachusetts Home Inspections - Methuen, MA
Massachusetts Home Inspections

Charles,

 Yes, we call that a Drip edge vent in my area, as you can see in the bottom picture, above. The only difference is... in your situation they have the vinyl Cor-A-Vent material installed in order to keep the attic insulation away from the air flow area.

I can't count how many times I've seen this particular area stuffed with insulation. Many New England homeowners do not like the feel of the freeezing air coming into this slot, so they stuff it with insulation to keep the uncomfortable air outside. But as summertime rolls around, and the hot sun is beaming on the roofing material causing heat to build up inside the attic, the attic venting is now compromised and now you've got a dangerous and costly MOLD situation developing. Not only that....any asphalt shingles that are installed, will start to curl prematurely, due to this heat build-up.

If the attic floor is well insulated and all the wiring, duct, and pipes are sealed properly at the attic floor penetration area, then the cold air that is entering the attic (at these vent locations) shouldn't bother anyone.

 

That's why adequate insulation plays an important role in establishing proper venting. They work together.

 

Jan 09, 2008 09:35 PM
Anonymous
Pat McMahon

Are ridge vents required on new or re-shingled roofs? A roofing contractor was telling my mother that they are.

I'm all in favor of them and had a ridge vent and soffit vents installed when I re-roofed 5 years ago so

that's not the issue. Just wondering if it's part of the code now.

Thank you in advance.

Apr 28, 2008 07:26 AM
#8
Anonymous
Pat McMahon
Sorry, I should've mentioned that this is in Massachusetts.
Apr 28, 2008 07:27 AM
#9
Anonymous
David Valley

Pat,

There is no code that states "Ridge and Soffit" vents are required. If you are re-roofing (whether it be an additional layer or a new roof), I highly recommend installing Ridge and Soffit vents.

I'm finding a high percentage of Massachusetts roofs (approximately 75% of the homes I inspect) that are improperly vented and I will red flag each and every one.

Ventilation is crucial (for asphalt shingled roofs) as the asphalt will start melting from high heat build-up in our hot summer months.

Here's an example of what an asphalt roof will look like in a little as ten years.....

[IMG]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff96/daevalley/shingles_old1.jpg[/IMG]

Apr 28, 2008 08:27 AM
#10
Anonymous
Soffit Sue

We have just completed an aggressive insulation job on our 80 year old house which doesn't have large enough soffit vents to even put a 3" round installed.  What is your best alternative???  

May 21, 2008 01:12 AM
#11
Anonymous
David Valley

Sue,

 

If there are minimum to no soffit vents, then you need to install Drip Edge Vents. See the lower portion of my original post above for a drip edge vent illustration.

May 21, 2008 10:56 AM
#12
David Holden
DRH Home Inspection Akron, Ohio Summit County Home Inspector - Akron, OH
DRH Home Inspection Akron, Ohio Summit

David,  Great information, well done!

May 21, 2008 11:41 PM
Anonymous
David Valley

Thank you, David.

I started this post just to make sure the public is aware of ventilation issues that can be overlooked when re-roofing. It's amazing to see how many roof cavities I find to be improperly ventilated.

May 22, 2008 08:44 AM
#14
Anonymous
Leanne

David,

We are in the process of getting estimates to have a new roof put on our 17 year old home (we live in GA).  Four separate roofers have told us four different things on the "best way" to ventilate our roof.  We are planning to put ridge vents on the home (we already have soffit vents) but my question is is it necessary to also install turbine vents or power vents?  Does it depend on the square footage of the roof?  Our roof is approximately 3800sq ft.  Any input you can provide would be greatly appreciated to help us work through this decision.

Thanks!

Jul 17, 2008 11:45 PM
#15
Anonymous
Anonymous

David:

I was say that proper attic ventilation is absolutely needed.  Most shingle manufacturers require a certain minimum amount to put the shingle warranty in forcce.

Ridge and soffit venting is considered the best way which 1 foot of venting per every 300 sq ft of attic flooring if 1/2 the venting is at the ridge and the other half is at the soffit. If this isn't the case, then 1 foot of venting per 150 sq ft of attic flooring space.

I don't recommend power vents or gable vents as these can draw in warm air or create hot spots. 

It also depends upon the brand of shingle you are installing.  Check with the manufacturer.  You want the installer to install the roof exactly as the manufacturer says, so the warranty is in force.  Otherwise, you may just be wasting your money if something goes wrong in the future.

Matt

Jul 18, 2008 12:38 AM
#16
David Valley
Massachusetts Home Inspections - Methuen, MA
Massachusetts Home Inspections

Leanne,

The answer to your question is "No". Once the ridge and soffit vents are properly cut in and properly installed , No other vents are needed. The Ridge and soffit vents will be more than adequate. If any other venting is installed with the ridge and soffit vents, then the ventilation is not going to flow properly.

I tell all my clients to seal any other vents that are existing (gable end vents, turbines, etc.) when the ridge and soffit vents are installed.

Good luck on your newly installed roof. If you have any further questions regarding the shingle installation, simply ask.

Jul 18, 2008 04:46 AM
David Valley
Massachusetts Home Inspections - Methuen, MA
Massachusetts Home Inspections

This is what happens to your roof shingles when ventilation is compromised...

Jul 18, 2008 04:55 AM
Anonymous
Diane

David,

Our current roof is tile over skip sheathing.  We are putting on plywood decking and then lifetime asphalt.  Our roofer proposed moving the first skip sheathing board up a bit in order to (here's where I'm a little unclear) create gap between the plywood decking and the fascia board.  He will put a screen over this gap.  He says air would flow through this gap, into the soffit area and up through the attic.  The roofer's view is that this is simpler/cheaper than installing vents in all the soffits.  

I am wondering if this would provide adequate ventilation and if there is a downside to this approach.  For example, could it draw as well as a vent in the soffit?  I did read your earlier comment about the need to not block these kinds of vents with insulation.

Thank you!

Diane (Seattle)

Aug 07, 2008 07:14 PM
#19
Anonymous
David Valley

Diane,

Your roofer sounds like he knows what he's talking about. That particular vent is a drip edge vent. You can see my illustration above on the last image.

Don't be concerned with this type of vent. But make sure a ridge vent is installed at ridgeline and baffles are installed at the inside eave area.

 

Aug 08, 2008 05:09 PM
#20
Anonymous
Matthew Steger

I strongly recommend to my clients to stay away from these power vents as they can void the shingle warranty.  They tend to create hot spots in the roof which then lead to uneven wear.  A properly installed passive ridge and soffit vent system is the preferred vent method of each major shingle manufacturer.  I know of specific instances that CertainTeed voided warranties onsite once they saw the lack of proper ventilation as explicitly laid out in their installation manuals.

Oct 20, 2010 05:43 AM
#26
David Valley
Massachusetts Home Inspections - Methuen, MA
Massachusetts Home Inspections

Thank you for sharing Matthew.

Oct 20, 2010 11:37 PM