Energy Use For Appliances
Household appliances, including lighting, account for roughly 23 percent of energy consumption in the average Virginia home. Because these appliances are primarily powered by electricity, which is more expensive per unit of energy than other fuels, they comprise a larger share of the average household energy expenditure: roughly 30 percent.
What Can You Do About Your Appliance Energy Use?
There is a lot you can do to control and reduce appliance energy use. If any of your appliances need replacement, you can select more efficient models. Even if your current appliances don't need to be replaced, it might be a good idea to do a little research now so that when they do go, and you have to rush out to buy replacements, you'll know what you want (as you know, appliances usually fail over holiday weekends when the in-laws are visiting!).
If you aren't planning to replace an existing appliance, there are often simple measures that can be taken to improve its energy performance. And, even if your appliances are in perfect working order, adjusting the way you use them can often reduce their energy consumption.
Shopping For New Appliances
Most new appliances tend to be considerably more energy-efficient than their predecessors. Energy efficiency alone is rarely enough justification for replacing an old appliance since the energy savings are typically not great enough to justify the cost of the new appliance. However, there are many reasons people decide to replace an old appliance. It may have stopped working completely or it may simply not look right in a newly remodeled kitchen. Regardless of the reason for buying a new appliance, it almost always pays to buy an energy-efficient model.
One very useful resource is the Consumer Guide to Home Energy Savings, published each year by the American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy (2140 Shattuck Ave. #202, Berkeley, CA 94704).
The EnergyGuide label
One of the most useful tools for shopping for energy-efficient appliances is the EnergyGuide label. Federal law requires that EnergyGuide labels be attached to all new refrigerators, freezers, water heaters, dishwashers, clothes washers, air conditioners, heat pumps, furnaces, and boilers. The following explanation should give you a good idea of exactly what the EnergyGuide labels tell you and how it can help you make an informed decision when shopping for new energy-efficient appliances.
The information provided by EnergyGuide labels varies somewhat with different appliances, so we'll take a look at several different categories of appliances and provide examples of labels.
Refrigerators and freezers
For refrigerators (Figure 1), you will see a large number near the center of the label. This tells you the approximate yearly operating cost for that particular model, and it's the best way to quickly compare one model to another. Keep in mind that all these estimates are based on standardized tests. As with EPA auto mileage ratings, the values are very useful for comparing one model to another, but your real costs may vary.
EnergyGuide labels for freezers are the same as for refrigerators.
1. Top of label: Type of appliance, capacity, model number.
2. The large number tells you the approximate yearly energy cost in dollars. It is based on the average cost of electricity around the country, which changes from year to year.
The labels on different models or even on the same models in different stores may have been printed at different times, so the numbers might be a little different. Also, because your electricity costs are probably different from the national average, this may not tell you how much the refrigerator will cost to operate in your area (see #4, below).
3. This is a scale that shows how the refrigerator compares with other similar models on the market in terms of energy efficiency. The operating costs of the most efficient and least efficient in this size category are shown on the scale. A word of caution: the ranges provided on EnergyGuide labels are not updated regularly and may not be accurate. In other words, even though the scale shows this particular model to be at the high efficiency (low energy cost) end of the scale, the scale itself may have shifted as more efficient models have come onto the market. The best thing to do is to shop around until you are satisfied you are getting the best buy for your money.
4. The yearly energy cost table provides a way for you to figure out how much the refrigerator will cost to operate in your area, based on your electricity rates. To find out how much you pay for electricity, look on your most recent utility bill. |  |
Water heaters
For water heaters, the EnergyGuide label looks just like the label for refrigerators, except that the detailed information provided for determining the actual operating cost is based either on electricity costs or gas costs, depending on the type of water heater. Electricity prices are given in cents per kilowatt-hour and gas prices in cents per therm (100,000 Btu) or cents per ccf (hundred cubic feet) of natural gas.
Water heaters designed for propane should have EnergyGuide labels with energy costs in cents per gallon, although the range may not go as high as your propane cost. If the per-gallon prices listed on the label do not go high enough, divide your actual propane cost by the highest propane cost listed, and multiply the estimated annual cost by that value. Refer to Chapter 6 for more information on water heaters.
Dishwashers and clothes washers
For appliances that use hot water (dishwashers and clothes washers), the labels are a little different. Most of the energy used by these appliances is for heating the water rather than running the appliance itself. Under typical usage patterns, water heating accounts for about 80 percent of the energy use by dishwashers and 90 percent of the energy use by clothes washers. (The rest of the energy is used for pumps, motors, and an electric drying cycle in dishwashers.) So how much money you spend each year for one of these appliances depends on how you heat your water.
The EnergyGuide labels for these appliances, therefore, provide two sets of numbers- one for electric water heating and one for gas water heating (Figure 2).
1. Use this large number to quickly compare the approximate operating costs of different models. If you have an electric water heater, use the number on the left. If you have a gas water heater, use the number on the right.
2. The yearly energy cost tables are more complex with dishwashers and clothes washers, because you need to consider both the energy cost and how you use the appliance (number of loads per week). Find the row corresponding to your energy cost and the vertical column corresponding to your expected use. The intersection is your expected annual cost. |  |
If you have a propane water heater, you will need to calculate your annual operating cost using the natural gas table. One gallon of propane is equivalent in energy content to .93 therms (or ccf) of natural gas. Because a gallon of propane is usually a lot more expensive than a therm of natural gas, the tables on the EnergyGuide label probably do not go high enough. Use the following method to calculate your costs if using a propane water heater:
Divide your cost of propane (per gallon) by the highest cost per therm of natural gas listed, and multiply that value by 1.08 (to account for the greater heat content in natural gas). The resulting number is the factor you should use to calculate your expected annual operating cost. Multiply that factor by the annual operating cost listed on the bottom horizontal line of the EnergyGuide label. For example, using the dishwasher EnergyGuide label in Figure 2, if you pay $1.28 per gallon for propane, divide $1.28 by $.60 and multiply that value by 1.08 ($1.28 ÷ $.60 x 1.08 = 2.3). If you do six loads of dishes per week, your expected annual operating cost would be $97 ($42 x 2.3 = $97).
Room air conditioners
For room air conditioners (air conditioners that are installed either in a window or into an opening in the wall), the EnergyGuide label includes an energy efficiency rating (EER) instead of an annual energy cost number. The EER tells you how efficient the air conditioner is. An average model on the market has an EER between 8-1/2 and 9-1/2, while the most efficient models have EERs as high as 12.
1. The large number is the Energy Efficiency Rating, which is the ratio of cooling output (in Btu) divided by the power consumption (in watt-hours). The higher the number, the more efficient the air conditioner.
2. The yearly operating cost table factors in both your cost of electricity (horizontal rows) and your expected hourly use of the air conditioner (vertical columns). In the mountainous parts of the Commonwealth you can expect to use an air conditioner for as little as 350 hours per year, While along the border near North Carolina, up to 1000 hours of operation can be expected. |  |
Choosing And Using Appliances
On the following pages, each of the major home appliances are covered in detail, listing considerations for selection of new equipment, suggestions for improving the efficiency of older models, and tips on how to use the equipment for maximum energy performance.
Refrigerators and freezers
If your old refrigerator was purchased before 1975, it probably consumes at least twice as much electricity as an energy-efficient new model.
Even though federal law mandates relatively stringent energy standards for new refrigerators, there is still considerable difference between the most and least efficient models in a given size category. Always compare the EnergyGuide labels.
When looking for a new refrigerator or freezer, also consider these points:
· Avoid convenience features that you don't really need. In most cases, through-the-door ice dispensers and water dispensers increase energy use. · Most new refrigerators have heating elements built into the wall of the refrigerator that help prevent condensation from forming. This feature is often not needed and wastes energy if not turned off. Choose a model that has a power-saver or energy-saver switch to turn off these heating coils when not needed. · With freezers, manual defrost models are considerably more energy efficient than frost-free models - this difference in efficiency will be reflected on the Energy-Guide labels. |  |
Installation of refrigerators and freezers
You will achieve better energy performance from a refrigerator or freezer by following the recommendations below:
· Make sure that air can freely flow across the coils. Don't close the refrigerator into a confined space unless it's a model that is specially designed to be "built in." Leave at least a 1" space on each side of the unit to allow for adequate air flow to carry heat away.
· Install refrigerators and freezers away from heat sources, such as oven and dishwashers, and out of direct sunlight.
· It often makes sense to install freezers in a cooler basement or attached garage, though manufacturers recommend against installation in locations where temperatures can drop below freezing.
Maintenance
· Keep the condenser coils clean. Dust and dirt accumulation on the heat exchanger coils on the back or bottom of a refrigerator will reduce its efficiency. They should be vacuumed off at least once a year- more often if your home is particularly dusty. Follow the manufacturers instructions for cleaning, and as a safety precaution, unplug the unit while moving and cleaning it. |  |
· Check door seals and replace if leaky or worn. To test the seals, close a dollar bill in the door. If the dollar bill pulls out with no resistance, the seals probably should be replaced. · Check the temperature settings and adjust as necessary. The refrigerator compartment should be between 36½F and 38½F, and the freezer compartment between 0½F and 5½F. Lower temperature settings are unnecessary and waste energy. · Defrost as necessary. Ice buildup on the coils decreases heat transfer and reduces overall efficiency of refrigerators and freezers. Manual defrost and partial automatic defrost refrigerators and freezers should be defrosted whenever ice builds up more than 1/4" on the coils. |  |
Operation
· Avoid putting containers of hot food in a refrigerator or freezer. Let them cool first.
· Keep your freezer fairly full- it will perform better than if it is nearly empty. You can fill plastic containers with water and freeze them to fill up extra capacity.
· Rethink that old spare refrigerator running in the basement. It may be costing you as much as $200 per year to keep a couple of six-packs of beer cold. If you decide to stop using it, unplug it and remove the door for safety.
Dishwashers
Water heating accounts for about 80 percent of the energy use of dishwashers; most of the rest is for the electric drying cycle. As a result, the most important strategies to reduce energy use involve cutting hot water use and limiting usage of the electric drying cycle.
Buying a new dishwasher
The EnergyGuide labels on new dishwashers list annual operating cost, but it is important to note that the EnergyGuide ratings are based on very specific operating cycles, and that they do not factor in certain energy-saving features.
· Look for an energy-saving wash cycle option. Many dishwashers offer a "light wash" cycle that uses less water and operates for a shorter period of time. This cycle will be perfectly adequate for lightly soiled dishes, and it will save energy.
· Buy a dishwasher that has a built-in booster heater. To perform optimally, dishwashers need 140-145½F water. Many dishwashers have booster heaters that can heat water from 110½F or 120½F up to the required temperature. The advantage, from an energy standpoint, is that with a booster heater, you can turn down the temperature setting on your water heater, thereby avoiding unnecessary standby losses.
Installation
· Position the dishwasher as close as possible to the water heater to minimize the piping run and resultant heat loss.
Operation
· If your dishwasher has a lower-water-use light-wash cycle, use it whenever possible.
· Use the no-heat air-dry feature on your dishwasher. If you have an older model without this feature, you can turn off the dishwasher and open the door after the final rinse cycle to let the dishes air dry. Be aware that drying will take longer, however, and some spotting is possible.
· If your dishwasher has a booster heater, turn the thermostat on your water heater down to 120-130½F (check the dishwasher manufacturer's recommendations for minimum water heater setting).
· Avoid the temptation to pre-rinse dishes before putting them in the dishwasher. Most quality dishwashers today do an excellent job without pre-rinsing. Simply scrape off solids and pour out liquids before loading dishes. If you must rinse dishes first, use cold water.
· Wash full loads. A dishwasher will use the same amount of water (and energy) whether it is washing a full load or a nearly empty load. If possible, gradually fill up the dishwasher during the day and operate it just once, at night. However, don't overfill the washer to save "even more" energy. You need to leave plenty of room for water to circulate between dishes for proper cleaning.
· If you have a dishwasher but usually wash dishes by hand, you might not be saving any energy. If you tend to leave the water running while washing dishes, you would probably reduce your water and energy use by using the dishwasher instead.
Clothes washers and dryers
The average energy cost for washing and drying one load of clothes ranges from 17¢ to $1.10 at current Virginia energy prices. As with dishwashers, most of the energy use of washing machines is for water heating, so it's best to use less water and cooler settings. With dryers, the primary differences in energy use among different machines relates to how they sense when the clothes are dry. Gas dryers also generally cost a lot less to operate than electric models. You can usually save the most energy (and money) by changing the way you do the laundry. In fact, a load of laundry that is washed and rinsed in cold water, and hung on a line to dry, uses only about 3¢ worth of energy. Tips on buying and operating washers and dryers for maximum energy savings are presented below.
Buying a new washing machine
· Compare EnergyGuide labels of the different washing machines you are considering.
· Look for a model that lets you adjust the wash and rinse temperature settings individually. With warm and cold cycles, your energy and dollar savings can be dramatic, as shown in Table 1.
TABLE - 1
COST OF A LOAD OF LAUNDRY
| Electric water heater | Gas water heater |
Wash/rinse
settings | kWh
used | Avg.cost
per load
(cents)1 | Wash/rinse
settings | Therms
used | Avg. cost
per load
(cents)2 |
| Water heater thermostat set at 140ºF |
| Hot/Hot | 8.3 | 66 | Hot/Hot | .329 | 20 |
| Hot/Warm | 6.3 | 50 | Hot/Warm | .247 | 15 |
| Hot/Cold | 4.3 | 34 | Hot/Cold | .164 | 10 |
| Warm/Warm | 4.3 | 34 | Warm/Warm | .164 | 10 |
| Warm/Cold | 2.3 | 18 | Warm/Cold | .082 | 5 |
| Cold/Cold | 0.4 | 3 | Cold/Cold | --- | 3 |
| Water heater thermostat set at 120ºF |
| Hot/Hot | 6.5 | 52 | Hot/Hot | .248 | 15 |
| Hot/Warm | 4.9 | 39 | Hot/Warm | .186 | 10 |
| Hot/Cold | 4.3 | 27 | Hot/Cold | .124 | 7 |
| Warm/Warm | 3.4 | 27 | Warm/Warm | .124 | 7 |
| Warm/Cold | 1.9 | 15 | Warm/Cold | .062 | 4 |
| Cold/Cold | 0.4 | 3 | Cold/Cold | --- | 3 |
| 1. Assumes 8 cents per kWh. |
| 2. Assumes 60 cents per therm. |
*Source: Consumer Guide to Home Energy Savings, ACEEE, 1996. You will need to determine for yourself whether or not the lower-temperature wash settings clean your clothes as well as hotter settings. Cold-water rinses are just as effective as warm-water rinses, so they should always be selected.
· Choose a model that offers different water level settings, allowing you to use less water (and energy) for smaller loads. A typical top-loading machine uses about 20 gallons per load for the smallest setting, and up to 40 gallons per load for the largest.
· Consider a front-loading (horizontal-axis) model instead of a standard top-loader. Front-loaders use about half as much water and energy as top-loaders, and some say the washing performance is actually better. Along with saving money for water heating, a front-loading machine can cut your water and sewage bills (if you are on a municipal system), extend the life of a rural septic system, and save a lot of money on detergent.
· Water extraction. The more water your washing machine extracts during its spin cycle, the less your dryer will have to work. Some (but not all) manufacturers list the water extraction specifications in their literature.
Buying a new dryer
· Choose a dryer that shuts off automatically when the clothes become dry instead of one that can only operate on a timed cycle. If the only option is a timed cycle, you might be wasting a lot of energy by just heating clothes that are already dry- and damaging the clothes as well. The best controls have actual moisture sensors, while others sense only the temperature of the exhaust air.
· Gas dryers are usually much less expensive to operate than electric models- at least if you are able to use natural gas rather than propane. All gas dryers sold today are required to have electronic ignition instead of pilot lights. If you are considering buying a used model, be aware that the pilot light can waste a lot of energy.
Installation of washers and dryers
· Install the washing machine as close to the water heater as possible, and insulate the hot water pipes.
· Install a quality dryer vent hood that blocks return airflow. Standard metal vent hoods can result in considerable heat loss and cold air drafts. Dryers should always be vented to the outside. Use smooth metal ducting so as not to impede airflow.
· Never vent a dryer inside - not even an electric model. The exhaust contains chemical contaminants and lots of moisture which can affect indoor air quality.
· Install washer and dryer in a heated space. Dryers in particular work more efficiently in heated spaces than unheated spaces (such as garages).
Operation and maintenance
· Turn down your water heater. 120½F water will be adequate for most washing needs that require "hot" water.
· Fill the washing machine to capacity, but don't overload. Most people tend to under-load washing machines, necessitating extra loads. When you don't have enough laundry to fill up the washing machine, use a lower water volume setting.
· Use the energy-saving wash settings (lower temperature, water volume matched to load size). Cold-water washing offers the greatest energy savings, and with detergents specially formulated for cold water, washing performance is usually satisfactory. Always use cold-water rinse settings.
· Try to separate your clothes into like fabrics that will dry at a similar rate. Synthetics generally dry much faster than cottons.
· Never add wet clothes to a load of laundry that is already partially dry.
· Be careful not to overdry clothes. Experiment with the settings on the automatic drying control, as many tend to overdry. You may find that the "less dry" is plenty dry enough. By taking the clothes out when they are still slightly damp, you not only save energy, but also may reduce wear and tear on the fabric and reduce the need for ironing. If possible, dry two or more loads in a row to benefit from the residual heat in the dryer. |  |
· Clean the dryer lint trap regularly for improved drying efficiency and safety (follow manufacturer's instructions). Accumulated lint prevents moisture from escaping and can be a fire hazard.
· Periodically check the outside dryer exhaust hood to make sure that it isn't blocked and that the flapper or seal is in proper working order. |  |
· In good weather, hang your laundry outside and use free solar energy to dry your clothes.
Cooking appliances
Selecting cooking equipment has gotten a lot more complex in recent years. Along with the old stand-by gas or electric kitchen range with oven and top burners, we now have microwave ovens, high-tech halogen and induction cook-tops, down-vented ranges with pop-out grills, convection ovens, slow-cook crockpots (insulated ceramic pot with electric heating element), single-loaf bread ovens, and sophisticated counter-top toaster ovens.
Just as importantly, our living and cooking habits have changed. Two career families need to consider speed and efficiency in cooking, plus the possibility of programming appliances to operate while family members are at work. There are no EnergyGuide labels for cooking equipment, because within a given model category and style there is very little difference in energy use between brands.
Cooktops
Cooktops can be part of a standard kitchen range, or a separate unit built into a counter. Different types of gas and electric cooktops are described below, with ovens discussed separately afterwards. |  |
Gas cooktops
Many cooks prefer gas burners because they offer instant heat and greater temperature control. All new gas cooktops are required to have electronic ignition instead of wasteful pilot lights. Some new models have sealed burners which make them easier to keep clean, but do not affect their energy use. You should always operate an exhaust fan when using a gas range to remove products of combustion as well as steam, grease, and cooking odors.
Electric cooktops
Exposed electric coils are the most common type of electric burner, and generally the least expensive. Several other types of electric cooktops are described below. Of these, only the induction elements offer significant energy savings over standard electric coils, and these elements are so expensive that the cost cannot be justified for energy savings alone.
Solid disk elements. Solid disk elements look better and are easier to clean than electric coils, but they take longer to heat up and cool down so they tend to use more energy. The disks transfer heat to pans primarily through direct contact, so it is important to have good flat-bottomed pans for maximum contact between the disk surface and the pan.
Radiant elements under ceramic glass. Ceramic glass cooktops heat up more quickly than solid disk elements, though not as quickly as electric coils. They are more efficient than solid disks, and some are even more efficient than coil elements. Ceramic glass cooktops are quite expensive, however. As with solid disks, flat bottomed pans for good contact are important.
Halogen elements under ceramic glass. Halogen cooktops use halogen lamps under a ceramic glass surface to heat the cooking vessel. The lamps heat up very quickly, offering improved cooking control and providing slightly improved efficiency compared to standard radiant elements under ceramic glass cooktops. As with standard radiant elements, halogen elements require good contact between the pans and the surface.
Induction elements. Induction elements transfer electromagnetic energy directly to the pan containing the food. Since they don't waste any heat on the cooking surface, they are very efficient, using less than half the energy of standard electric coil ranges. Induction elements require the use of ferrous metal pans (iron or stainless steel); aluminum cookware will not work. Induction cooktops are also very expensive, making them hard to justify for energy savings alone.
Ovens
Standard gas and electric ovens are available either combined with cooktops (typical kitchen range), or as independent units. Newer convection ovens and microwave ovens can provide considerable energy savings. Smaller specialized cooking appliances that can be used in place of full-size ovens and cooktops are also potential energy savers. These appliances include slow-cook crockpots, individual-loaf bread cookers, and counter-top toaster ovens.
Standard ovens
Among standard gas and electric ovens, those with a self-cleaning feature tend to be more efficient, because they have more insulation in the walls. Using this feature too often however (more than once a month) will cancel out any energy savings from the extra insulation, because so much energy is required for the self-cleaning. Ovens with no window in the door will be more energy-efficient than those with one. The slight advantage may be lost, however, if the lack of a window makes the cook repeatedly open the door to check the food.
Convection ovens
Convection ovens offer considerable energy savings because a fan circulates hot air throughout the oven compartment, allowing cooking temperatures and cooking time to be reduced. (See Table 2). |  |
TABLE - 2
ENERGY COSTS OF VARIOUS METHODS OF COOKING
| Appliance | Temp. | Time | Energy | Cost(1) |
| Electric oven | 350ºF | 1 hr. | 2.0 kWh | 16¢ |
| Convection oven (elec.) | 325º | 45 min. | 1.39 kWh | 11¢ |
| Gas oven | 350º | 1 hr. | .112 therm | 7¢ |
| Frying pan | 420º | 1 hr. | .9 kWh | 7¢ |
| Toaster oven | 425º | 50 min. | .95 kWh | 8¢ |
| Crockpot | 200º | 7 hrs. | .7 kWh | 6¢ |
| Microwave oven | "High" | 15 min. | .36 kWh | 3¢ |
| 1. Assumes 8¢/kWh for electricity and 60¢/therm for gas. |
*Source: Consumer Guide to Home Energy Savings, ACEEE, 1996. Microwave ovens
Introduction of the microwave oven was the most significant advance in cooking in the last fifty years. Cooking times can be reduced dramatically with many foods, and total energy consumption for cooking can be reduced by about two-thirds. You can save further by reducing the number of dishes to wash (you can serve food in the dishes it is cooked in), and by introducing less heat into the kitchen (you won't need to operate an air conditioner as frequently).
Ventilation
A range hood or other ventilation fan is very important for exhausting fumes and smells out of the house. When cooking with gas the fan should be running continuously. The exhaust fan must blow the air out of the house, not just recirculate it through a filter. A variable speed fan is the best option, since it allows control over how much air is exhausted. There is a danger, however, with exhaust fans that are too powerful, particularly the popular downdrafting types, some of which are as large as 1,000 cfm (cubic feet per minute). When operating, these fans depressurize the house, drawing cold outside air in through cracks and gaps in your walls. This depressurization can also cause hazardous backdrafting of combustion appliances. If you do install a large ventilation fan, consider putting in a makeup air supply to balance the exhaust air. |  |
Tips for energy-efficient cooking
· Instead of using your full-size oven for cooking small dishes, use a microwave oven, toaster oven, or slow-cook crockpot. A number of different ways of cooking a casserole are compared in Table 2.
· For stove-top cooking of rice, beans, and other foods that require a long cooking time, consider a pressure cooker, which will reduce cooking time considerably.
· For stove-top cooking, use the smallest pan necessary to do the job. With electric cooktops, try to match the pan size to the element size.
· Copper or aluminum-bottomed pans heat up more quickly than steel or cast-iron pans and can thus save energy.
· Clean the burner pans (the metal pans under burners used to catch grease) and keep them shiny so that they will reflect more heat up to your cooking vessel.
· With electric burners, including solid-disk and ceramic cooktops, make sure your pots and pans have flat bottoms to provide good heat contact between burner and pan.
· Cook with lids on your pans. Without a lid, cooking spaghetti can use three times as much energy.
· With gas burners, the flame should be blue. If you have a yellowish flame, the burner might not be operating efficiently. Have your gas company inspect it.
· To reduce cooking time, defrost frozen foods in the refrigerator before cooking. When time constraints require quicker defrosting, use the microwave.
· Minimize oven preheat time. With most dishes, preheating the oven is not necessary.
· Avoid the temptation to open the oven door.
· To allow air circulation within an oven, don't lay foil across the grills. Try to stagger pans on the shelves to allow air circulation.
· When possible, cook several dishes at the same time in the oven. Cook double portions and freeze half for another meal. It takes a lot less energy to reheat food than to cook it.
· For oven cooking, use glass or ceramic pans instead of metal. You can usually turn the oven down 25½ and not increase the cooking time.
· Avoid overcooking. Use meat thermometers and timers.
· If you have a self-cleaning oven, try to use it soon after cooking a meal so that the oven will already be warm. Limit use as much as practical.
· Keep the inside surface of microwave ovens clean to improve efficiency, and cook foods right in microwave-safe serving dishes (follow manufacturer's instructions on what type of cookware can be used in a microwave oven).
Miscellaneous appliances
There are lots of other energy users around the typical home, some of which can be very significant. A few of them are described below. Others are listed in Table 3.
Table 3 - Energy Consumption of Miscellaneous Appliances in the Home
| Household Product | Typical Wattage | Typical Usage | Cost Per year
@ $.76/kWh |
| Bathroom fan | 60 | 1hr/day | $1.66 |
| Black & white television | 556 | 0.6 hrs/day | 9.15 |
Bottled water dispenser
- (hot & cold) | 65 | 24 hrs/day- 203 kWh/hr | 15.43 |
| Ceiling fan | 23 | hrs/day-5mos/yr | 2.22 |
| Clock | 860 | 24 hrs/day | 1.33 |
| Coffee maker | 200 | 2 times/day | 10.16 |
| Color television | 200 | 6 hrs/day | 33.29 |
| Computer | 250 | 2 hrs/day | 11.10 |
| Dehumidifier | 200 | 7 hrs/day-5 mos/yr | 19.95 |
| Electric blanket | 200 | 4 hrs/day-5 mos/yr | 9.12 |
| Electric mower | 900 | 12 hrs/yr | 0.82 |
| Furnace fan | 300 | 1600 hrs/yr | 35.36 |
| Garbage disposal | 450 | 22 hrs/yr | 0.75 |
| Humidifier | 170 | 360 hrs/yr | 4.66 |
| Instant hot water | 7000 | 2 hrs/wk | 55.33 |
| Iron | 1100 | 4 hrs/mo | 4.01 |
| Spa/hot tub (electric) | 2000 | 3 hrs/day | 166.44 |
| Sump/sewage pump | 500 | 80 hrs/yr | 3.04 |
| Toaster | 1100 | 2 hrs/mo | 2.03 |
| Toaster oven | 1500 | 4 hrs/mo | 5.47 |
| VCR | 20 | 4 hrs/day | 2.22 |
| Waterbed heater | 350 | 7 hrs/day | 67.96 |
| Well pump | 750 | 1.5 hrs/day | 31.21 |
| Whole-house fan | 375 | 6 hrs/day-5 mos/yr | 25.65 |
| Window fan | 200 | 3 hrs/day-5 mos/yr | 6.84 |
Humidifiers
Can make you feel more comfortable in the winter months, when your household air tends to dry out, but some models use a considerable amount of energy to operate. If your home is too dry, consider reducing the natural air leakage (see Chapter 2). By reducing the amount of air exchange between the inside and outside during the winter, you will maintain higher humidity levels indoors. House plants also help to add moisture to the indoor air.
Dehumidifiers
Used most commonly to keep basements dry, dehumidifiers can use significant amounts of electricity. One way to reduce dehumidifier energy consumption is to find and eliminate some of the moisture sources. Some possible sources are stored firewood in the basement, water leaking into the basement, and inadequate kitchen and bathroom ventilation. Be sure to keep windows closed when running a dehumidifier.
Home Office Equipment
With more people working out of their homes, energy use for computers, laser printers, copiers, and other office equipment is on the increase. When selecting equipment, consider the energy use. Laser printers, for example, use far more electricity than ink-jet printers and dot-matrix printers. Similarly, laptop computers use just a fraction of the electricity of desktop models. With copiers, look for models that have a low-energy-use standby mode.
On the subject of home offices, it is worth noting that the amount of energy you save by working at home and not commuting regularly to work will almost always more than make up for the increased energy use at home
· plus you would probably be using just as much energy at an office anyway.
Waterbed heaters
Surprisingly, a waterbed can be the single largest electricity consumer in the home, exceeding even the electricity use of a refrigerator. To reduce energy use by your waterbed, be sure to cover it with a comforter during the day, a simple measure that can cut energy use by 30 percent. Insulating the sides of the bed can save another 10 percent. You might also want to put the heater on a timer so that it isn't keeping the waterbed warm all the time. Some people don't use heaters at all, and instead insulate themselves from the waterbed with blankets or foam padding.
Well pumps
In rural areas that are not on municipal water systems, a lot of energy can be required for pumping water out of deep wells. Any measures taken to reduce water use in the home (low-flush toilets, low-flow showerheads, faucet aerators, water-saving cycles on the dishwasher and clothes washer, etc.) will reduce energy used for water pumping. If the pump seems to be coming on more than it should, there may be a leak somewhere in the system, or the pressure switch may be malfunctioning. Have the system inspected.
Spas and hot tubs
While not found in most homes, spas and hot tubs can be huge energy users. If you have one, be sure to buy and use an insulated cover. When installing a hot tub, insulate well around the sides and bottom.
Color television sets
Some color television sets have an instant-on feature to avoid the long warm-up period. While the convenience feature is nice, it wastes a lot of energy because the TV is never fully off. If you have an older television with this feature, consider installing a switch on the power cord to turn it all the way off when not in use, or unplug it.
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