Replacing Plumbing Pipes: Costs and Options.  Courtesy of Josh Gonzalez of Coldwell Banker Prime Properites in Clifton Park NY.

Replacing plumbing can be a costly, time-consuming venture. These alternatives make it doable and affordable.

It's relatively easy for your plumber to replace pipes that are already exposed in your basement or crawlspace. Image: Kim Steele/Photodisc/Getty

You'll need to closely inspect your plumbing or rely on a licensed plumber to advise you whether it's time for replacing plumbing. Replacing plumbing in a 1,500 sq. ft. home is an expensive proposition that can cost $2,000 to $15,000, depending on the complexity.

However, you can mitigate the cost and hassle of a totally replacing plumbing with these strategies:

Replace what's exposed

For a home with plaster walls, wood paneling, or other features that make it difficult to gain access to in-wall pipes, consider at least replacing plumbing pipes that aren't buried in the walls.

Although it's a big job, replacing plumbing pipes that are exposed in a basement, crawlspace, or utility room is fairly straightforward because your plumber can easily get at the pipes. 

Depending on the configuration of your house, your plumber may be able to access the vast majority of your system this way.

For a 1,500 sq. ft., two-bathroom home, you'll pay between $1,000 and $6,000 to replace just the exposed plumbing.

Replace plumbing when you renovate

When you remodel a portion of your house, take the opportunity to inspect-and if need be, replace-plumbing lines that you expose when you open up the walls and floors. This includes replacing plumbing in the kitchen or bathroom that you're remaking, and any pipes passing through the walls to feed upstairs bathrooms.

Because the pipes are exposed during the project and because your plumber is coming on site anyway, the added cost of replacing plumbing may be only $250 to $1,000-a bargain, considering you've eliminated a hard-to-get-at problem area when you have the chance.

PEX limits demolition

If you're thinking of replacing plumbing that's inside your walls, your plumber may be able to limit wall demolition by using cross-linked polyethylene tubing, also known as PEX-a flexible plastic hose.

PEX can be snaked into walls in much the way electricians feed wires behind the wallboard or plaster with relatively minimal surgery-not an option with rigid copper pipe.

 PEX meets building code nearly everywhere, comes with a 25-year warranty, and puts a smaller hit on your budget than copper. For comparison, 100 feet of PEX costs less than $30. 100 feet of straight copper pipe costs about $285.

PEX also may offer lower costs in terms of labor. For example, a home that requires two days of labor to re-plumb will only require a day with PEX.

 Still, some environmental groups worry about as-yet-unknown health risks of plastic water supply lines.

And since PEX has only been widely used in the U.S. for about a decade, it doesn't have enough of a track record to indicate how long it will last-in other words, how long it'll be before replacing plumbing in your home is an issue again.  By: Joe Bousquin

Pull-out Shelves: Gliding to a Hardworking Kitchen.  Courtesy of Josh Gonzalez of Coldwell Banker Prime Properties in Clifton Park NY.

Add pull-out shelves to your existing base kitchen cabinets and you'll stay organized, frustration-free, and never lose an item in the back of a cabinet again.

Some pull-out shelves include slots for storing baking sheets or pans. Image: ShelfGenie® Glide-Out^TM Shelving Solutions

Pull-out shelves unleash the storage potential on a typical 24-inch deep, 30-inch wide, lower kitchen cabinet. With standard shelves, you have to stoop down (ouch) and peer into the dark recesses to see what's back there. Mmm, peanut butter-that expired in 2008?

Eliminate this Neverland of lost pots and pans-and peanut butter-simply by retrofitting your existing cabinets with pull-out shelves.

Pull-out shelf basics

The beauty of pull-out shelves is that you'll bring the contents of the cabinet out into the light of day with one easy tug-a boon for anyone with limited mobility. Most pull-out shelves feature a shallow lip around the edge so that items don't tumble off as the shelf glides in and out.

Pull-out shelves typically come with full-extension gliding hardware that supports up to 100 pounds. However, most manufacturers recommend keeping the load to 75 to 80 pounds maximum.

Retrofitting existing cabinets with pull-outs is usually easy-most cabinets have adjustable shelves that are easily removed. If your shelving is fixed in place, however, you'll have to consult a woodworker to see if the shelves can be taken out.

Sizes and styles

Pull-out shelves come in standard or adjustable sizes to fit various cabinet interiors. They are available in three basic materials:

• solid wood (usually the most expensive and well-made).

• plywood sides combined with medium density fiber (MDF) bottoms.

• metal wire that's lightweight and easy to install, but also the least substantial.

You'll also find a variety of specialty options such as pull-out shelves with slots for storing trays, baking pans, or lids. Other options include bins that hold waste baskets and units that swing out from corner cabinets. Look for pull-out shelves at home centers, discount stores, and online.

Costs and caveats

Prices for individual shelves start at about $13 for a low-end wire or plywood and MDF unit, up to $745 for a solid wood specialty unit for a corner cabinet.

If you purchase the shelves yourself and hire out the installation, expect to pay anywhere from $250 to $600 for a full day's labor. At about $20 each, for example, 24 shelves would cost about $730 to $1,200, installed.

If top-quality work is important to you, custom cabinetmakers will build and install pull-out shelves. Typical costs are $135 to $210 per shelf, installed. In an average-sized kitchen with 12 base cabinets and 24 shelves, expect to pay $3,240 to $5,040 for custom-made pull-out shelves.

Keep in mind that some cabinets aren't as well-suited to pull-out shelves. Narrow shelves, for example, may require a pull-out that glides on hardware installed on an existing shelf. The pull-out will likely work best for spices or small items.  By: Jan Soults Walker

7 Smart Strategies for Kitchen Remodeling.  Courtesy of Josh Gonzalez of Coldwell Banker Prime Properties in Clifton Park NY.

Keep the same footprint, add storage, and design adequate lighting so you preserve value and keep costs on track.

If you're contemplating a kitchen remodel, you're also weighing a considerable investment. But a significant portion of the upfront costs may be recovered by the value the project brings to your home. Kitchen remodels in the $50,000-$60,000 range recoup about 69% of the initial project cost at the home's resale, according to recent data from Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs. Value Report. To make sure you maximize your return, consider these seven smart kitchen remodeling strategies.

1. Establish your priorities

Simple enough? Not so fast. The National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) recommends spending at least six months planning before beginning the work. That way, you can thoroughly evaluate your priorities and won't be tempted to change your mind during construction. Contractors often have clauses in their contracts that specify additional costs for amendments to original plans. Planning points to consider include:

• Avoid traffic jams. A walkway through the kitchen should be at least 36 inches wide, according to the NKBA. Work aisles for one cook should be a minimum of 42 inches wide and at least 48 inches wide for households with multiple cooks.

• Consider children. Avoid sharp, square corners on countertops, and make sure microwave ovens are installed at the heights recommended by the NKBA-3 inches below the shoulder of the principle user but not more than 54 inches from the floor.

• Access to the outside. If you want to easily reach entertaining areas, such as a deck or a patio, factor a new exterior door into your plans.

Because planning a kitchen is complex, consider hiring a professional designer. A pro can help make style decisions and foresee potential problems, so you can avoid costly mistakes. In addition, a pro makes sure contractors and installers are sequenced properly so that workflow is cost-effective. Expect fees around $50 to $150 per hour, or 5% to 15% of the total cost of the project.

2. Keep the same footprint

No matter the size and scope of your planned kitchen, you can save major expense by not rearranging walls, and by locating any new plumbing fixtures near existing plumbing pipes. Not only will you save on demolition and reconstruction, you'll greatly reduce the amount of dust and debris your project generates.

3. Match appliances to your skill level

A six-burner commercial-grade range and luxury-brand refrigerator might make eye-catching centerpieces, but be sure they fit your lifestyle, says Molly Erin McCabe, owner of A Kitchen That Works design firm in Bainbridge Island, Wash. "It's probably the part of a kitchen project where people tend to overspend the most."

The high price is only worth the investment if you're an exceptional cook. Otherwise, save thousands with trusted brands that receive high marks at consumer review websites, like www.ePinions.com and www.amazon.com, and resources such as Consumer Reports.

4. Create a well-designed lighting scheme

Some guidelines:

• Install task lighting, such as recessed or track lights, over sinks and food prep areas; assign at least two fixtures per task to eliminate shadows. Under-cabinet lights illuminate clean-up and are great for reading cookbooks. Pendant lights over counters bring the light source close to work surfaces.

• Ambient lighting includes flush-mounted ceiling fixtures, wall sconces, and track lights. Consider dimmer switches with ambient lighting to control intensity and mood.

5. Focus on durability

"People are putting more emphasis on functionality and durability in the kitchen," says McCabe. That may mean resisting bargain prices and focusing on products that combine low-maintenance with long warranty periods. "Solid-surface countertops [Corian, Silestone] are a perfect example," adds McCabe. "They may cost a little more, but they're going to look as good in 10 years as they did the day they were installed."

If you're not planning to stay in your house that long, products with substantial warranties can become a selling point. "Individual upgrades don't necessarily give you a 100% return," says Frank Gregoire, a real estate appraiser in St. Petersburg, Fla. "But they can give you an edge when it comes time to market your home for sale" if other for-sale homes have similar features.

6. Add storage, not space

To add storage without bumping out walls:

• Specify upper cabinets that reach the ceiling. They may cost a bit more, but you'll gain valuable storage space. In addition, you won't have to worry about dusting the tops.

• Hang it up. Install small shelving units on unused wall areas, and add narrow spice racks and shelves on the insides of cabinet doors. Use a ceiling-mounted pot rack to keep bulkier pots and pans from cluttering cabinets. Add hooks to the backs of closet doors for aprons, brooms, and mops.

7. Communicate effectively-and often

Having a good rapport with your project manager or construction team is essential for staying on budget. "Poor communication is a leading cause of kitchen projects going sour," says McCabe. To keep the sweetness in your project:

• Drop by the project during work hours as often as possible. Your presence assures subcontractors and other workers of your commitment to getting good results.

• Establish a communication routine. Hang a message board on-site where you and the project manager can leave each other daily communiques. Give your email address and cell phone number to subs and team leaders.

• Set house rules. Be clear about smoking, boom box noise levels, which bathroom is available, and where workers should park their vehicles.

Consumers spend more money on kitchen remodeling than any other home improvement project, according to the Home Improvement Research Institute, and with good reason. They're the hub of home life, and a source of pride. With a little strategizing, you can ensure your new kitchen gives you years of satisfaction.  By: John Riha

High-Tech Kitchen Faucet: A Hip, Smart Retrofit.  Courtesy of Josh Gonzalez of Coldwell Banker Prime Properties in Clifton Park NY.

A high-tech kitchen faucet is an easy upgrade that offers convenience and safety while quenching your grownup thirst for fun.

The Karbon articulating kitchen faucet allows you to select a height as well as a direction to spray. Image: Kohler

If you're looking for a new kitchen faucet, check out the high-tech wonders. The latest-gen kitchen faucets seem to operate with only a wink and a nod, and are a cool way to upgrade your kitchen without remodeling the whole space. Best of all, they aren't that expensive-you can get some of the latest features for under $200.

Can you do this with your kitchen faucet?

The contortionists: The trouble with a kitchen faucet that only pivots left or right is that you're limited by the range of motion. Today you can find faucets equipped with multiple articulated joints, folding necks, or spouts on pullout hoses so you can direct water deep into any corner of the sink or fill your tallest flower vase.

Check it out: Five pivoting joints allow the Karbon articulating kitchen faucet an especially flexible range of motion, allowing you to precisely direct the stream or select height. You'll appreciate the sculptural quality of this faucet as you play with various configurations. The faucet starts at about $900.

Lights fantastic: If you think water and light make an eye-appealing combination, try a kitchen faucet with built-in lighting. Colorful LEDs indicate whether water is hot or cold, while soft white lights elegantly illuminate the water stream.

Check it out: An LED light in the faucet head of the Chrome Centerset LED Sensor Faucet (0599-QH0108F) changes color to indicate water temperature. Green indicates 82 degrees or below. Blue means the water is 82 to 100 degrees. Red says the water is 100 to 118 degrees. When the light turns red and flashes, the water temperature is too hot! The chrome gooseneck faucet sells for about $180.

Touching tribute: Simply lay the back of your hand on the spout or handle of one of these kitchen faucets, and it turns on or off-a real advantage when your hands are full or dirty.

Check it out: Some models also feature touch-sensitive controls that regulate temperature; another faucet pairs with a touchscreen that alerts you if there's a malfunction, and lets you control water pressure, temperature, and volume so you don't waste water.

Hands off: Infrared or motion sensors detect the wave of your hand or spatula to turn these kitchen faucets on and off-yet another asset if your hands are otherwise occupied or covered in bread dough.

Check it out: Touch the Pilar single handle kitchen faucet with Touch 20 technology anywhere on the spout or handle to turn it on or off. Prices start around $300.

Dual personalities: If two heads are better than one, then check out models that offers two taps: one for filtered water and the other for non-filtered-all extending from one stem.   By: Jan Soults Walker

Start a Shared Tool Co-op.  Courtesy of Josh Gonzalez of Coldwell Banker Prime Properties in Clifton Park NY.

Save money and have access to a truly stunning tool collection by starting a neighbor-to-neighbor lending program or a tool library.

You might use a neighbor's garage or a donated space from a local business as a storage space for a tool-sharing program. Image: Stewart Cohen/Pam Ostrow/Blend Images/Getty Images

The amount you save by borrowing a table saw the two or three times a year you need it, rather than buying one, is so great that neighborhoods around the country have formalized the process with tool-sharing programs. Neighbors organize a process to lend each other specific tools, and establish tool libraries that loan tools to members.

The benefits aren't just economic: Pooling tools is good for the environment (fewer tools manufactured means less waste down the road), it's a great way to get to know your neighbors, and it's helpful to anyone who wants to keep up their property without spending a lot of money for tools.

Starting a tool library is a bigger job than a neighborhood tool-sharing program, but it has some clear advantages. Members don't have to deal with the hassles of lending out their property. The scale can be much larger-tool libraries in Berkeley and Atlanta serve the whole city. And, if the library is incorporated as a nonprofit (or becomes associated with an existing local nonprofit), donations of money and tools are tax-deductible.

Both tool-sharing programs and tool libraries require some key decisions that you and other organizers (and it's best to do this project with some partners) should consider before starting:

Raising money

It costs money to start and run a tool library, even one run by volunteers. You should be able to set up and equip a new tool library for about $2,000, experts say. Typical annual membership fees range from $20 to $60. Some libraries charge 2% to 3% of the cost of a tool when it's checked out. If your organization is a nonprofit, you may want to seek funding grants from local foundations.

Building inventory

For a tool-sharing program, ask everyone to list the tools they're willing to loan out. For a library, ask neighbors for tool donations, and purchase new tools with membership-fee funds. "Seventy-five percent of our power tools we purchased new, and 100% of our hand tools have been donated. It's been a big surprise for us-at least once a month someone wants to donate nice tools," says Michael Froehlich, the co-founder of the West Philly Tool Library.

Once open, choose new tools to add based on what is popular, and ask members for suggestions. Avoid troublesome tools, such as paint sprayers that often need repair and gas-powered machines that require smelly, explosive fuel.

Tool storage

In a tool-sharing program, everyone keeps their tools at home, but a library needs a storage facility. Rent gets expensive, so free space that's easy to get to for members is vital. Options to consider: a member's garage, donated space from a local business, or excess capacity at a local nonprofit.

Set the rules

Be clear on how long someone can keep a tool-a week with the option to renew once or twice is common. Set penalties for overdue tools. If a borrower breaks a neighbor's tool, they have to replace it, but tool libraries typically pay for repairs, unless there's evidence of serious misuse. Berkeley's tool library has a good set of rules to consider as a model.

Keeping track

Once a program has more than a few dozen tools, keeping on top of what's available, what's checked out, and when it's due becomes complicated. Off-the-shelf library database programs are relatively easy to modify for a tool inventory-consider a bar code set to make check-out and return a snap. For a tool-sharing program, a simple Google Docs spreadsheet may be all you need.

Buying insurance

A liability waiver, especially for use of power tools, is a good idea. A tool-sharing program probably doesn't require liability insurance, and tool libraries have to decide if they feel more comfortable with such coverage. Consider storefront insurance, though, in case anyone is injured while at your location.

Once you launch a tool-lending program, you may be surprised at how quickly it catches on. "Start very simply, and it can grow organically for what people want," says Dustin Zuckerman, the founder of the Santa Rosa Tool Library in California, which expanded in two years from an inventory of 15 tools to more than 1,700 tools today. "You have the potential to create an organization that people love."  By: Carl Vogel

When It Pays to Do It Yourself.  Courtesy of Josh Gonzalez of Coldwell Banker Prime Properties in Clifton Park NY.

Doing home-improvement jobs yourself can be a smart way to save money, but choose the right DIY projects or you'll end up paying dearly.

Look for maintenance jobs that are relatively easy and need to be done regularly, so you can hone your skills over time. Image: Comstock/Getty Images

Why pay someone big bucks to do something you can just as easily do yourself? That's the thinking that has gotten more Americans than ever swinging their own hammers. In a recent Time magazine poll, nearly a quarter of people said they were taking on more home-improvement projects themselves-understandably so, when you consider that it usually means a 50% to 75% discount, since all you pay for is materials.

But sometimes doing it yourself costs more than it saves, like when you decide to replace the toilet, end up flooding the basement, and have to pay a pro to fix your mistakes. Or, worse, if you become one of the more than 100,000 people injured each year doing home-improvement jobs. Here are some guidelines for deciding when DIY can save you money and when it could cost you.

Stick to routine maintenance for savings and safety

Seasonal home maintenance is ideal work for the DIY weekend warrior, since you can plan tasks in advance and get to them when your schedule allows. Because these are repeat projects, your savings will add up to big bucks over the years. Just by mowing your own lawn, for example, you can save $55 to $65 a week for a half-acre lawn during the growing season. The bigger the lot, the bigger the savings: with two acres, you'll pocket around $150 per week.

When It Pays: Look for maintenance jobs that are relatively easy and need to be done regularly, so you can hone your skills over time. In addition to mowing, other good ones are snow removal, pruning shrubs, washing windows, sealing the deck, painting fences, fertilizing the lawn, and replacing air conditioner filters.

When It Doesn't: Unless you have skill and experience on your side, stay off of any ladder taller than six feet; according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, more than 164,000 people end up in emergency rooms every year because of ladder injuries. The same goes for operating power saws or attempting any major electrical work-it's simply too risky if you don't have the experience.

Act as your own GC on small jobs 

If you're more comfortable operating an iPhone than a circular saw, you may be able to act as your own general contractor on a home-improvement project and hire the carpenters, plumbers, and other tradesmen yourself. You'll save 10% to 20% of the job cost, which is the contractor's typical fee.

When it Pays: If it's a small job that requires only two or three different tradesmen, and you have good existing relationships with top-quality professionals in those fields, consider DIY contracting.

When It Doesn't: Unless you have an established network of contacts who will show up as promised, the time to spend on oversight, enough construction experience to spot potential problems, and the skill to negotiate disputes between the various subcontractors, trying to manage your own project can quickly send the schedule and budget off the rails.

Pitch in with sweat equity on big jobs

Contributing your own labor on a big job being handled by a professional crew can cut hundreds or even thousands of dollars off the contractor's bill. Tear the cabinets and appliances out of your old kitchen before the contractor gets started, say, and you might knock $800 off the cost of your remodel, says Dean Bennett, a design/build contractor in Castle Rock, Colorado.

When it Pays: Grunt work-jobs that are labor intensive but require relatively little skill-makes the best homeowner contribution. Offer to do minor interior demolition like removing cabinets and pulling up old flooring, daily jobsite cleanup, product assembly, and simple landscaping like planting foundation shrubs and grass seed around your new addition.

When It Doesn't: If you get in the crew's way, you may slow them down far more than you help. Make your contributions when the workers aren't around, such as in the morning before they arrive, or on nights and weekends after they've left.

Put on some of the finishing touches

Unlike the early phases of a construction job, which require skilled labor to frame walls, install plumbing pipes, and run wiring, many of the finishing touches on a project are comparatively simple and DIY-friendly. If you do the painting yourself for a new basement rec room, for instance, you can easily save $1,800, Bennett says.

When it Pays: If you have the skill-or a patient temperament and an experienced friend to teach you-finish work like setting tile, laying flooring, painting walls, and installing trim are all good DIY jobs.

When It Doesn't: The downside to attempting your own finish work is that the results are very visible. Hammer dents in woodwork, for example, or sander ruts in your hardwood floors may cause you aggravation every time you see them. So unless you have a sure eye and a steady hand, it may not pay to embark on these tasks.   By: Oliver Marks

New Kitchen Cabinet Hardware-Low-Cost Ways to Jazz Up Your Style.  Courtesy of Josh Gonzalez of Coldwell Banker Prime Properties in Clifton Park NY.

Replace old kitchen cabinet hardware and gain an instant style update that's simple to do and easy on the budget.

Get creative with your cabinet hardware, such as these zinc alloy knobs and pulls, for a low-cost kitchen style upgrade. Image: Siro Designs

Like putting on a silk tie or diamond earrings, changing kitchen cabinet hardware is an easy way to freshen existing space without a lot of expense. Installing new knobs, pulls, and hinges is a project you can do in a weekend, too, once you've found cool replacements.

You'll love the unlimited variety of shapes, sizes, and colors available: Every type of metal finish, colored glass, even hand-painted porcelain. You'll find fun, custom-forged shapes-pulls that look like forks and spoons, or frogs, dogs, and even butterflies.

Expect to pay between $2 and $20 per knob or pull. For an average kitchen of 200 square feet with 30 lineal feet of cabinetry, you'll need approximately 40 pulls/knobs, so you can expect to spend anywhere from $80 to $800.

Here's what you need to know to dress up doors and drawers with new kitchen cabinet hardware.

Measuring for kitchen cabinet hardware

Replacing kitchen cabinet hardware is a job you can do yourself. But note there's a wide range of sizes when it comes to the spans between screws on kitchen cabinet hardware. You're in luck if your doors feature a knob with a single screw that secures to the door or drawer front, and you want to replace it with the same.

Otherwise, you'll need to measure precisely the spread between screws. Use a measuring tape to measure from the center of one screw hole to the center of the other. Write the measurement down and count the number of pulls and/or knobs that you need. If you're making your purchase at a home center, bring the handle and dimensions with you.

If you opt for handles that don't match up with existing holes, fill holes with wood filler and camouflage the repair with fresh stain or paint. Or you can cover the fix with a backplate that fits behind the new handle.

Hinges can be tricky

Hinges can be difficult to switch out because there are so many different types and sizes. If your kitchen cabinet hinges match the finish on the new hardware or if the hinges are hidden anyway, you can keep the originals.

Otherwise, before removing all the hinges, remove just one and then shop around-online or at a home center-to make sure you can find one that will work for your installation.

Installation tips for kitchen cabinet hardware

• If you need to re-drill your cabinet drawers and doors, speed up the project either by making a jig or buying one. You can make a jig from scrap plywood following directions available online. Or purchase a plastic jig from a home center or online for about $7.

• As you drill, keep the bit perpendicular to the door or drawer face. You can position an 8-inch tri-square next to your drill as a visual guide. If you're inexperienced using a power drill, there are a number of drill guides available, starting at about $17. 

By: Jan Soults Walker