Sometimes it pays to park a big, yellow Hummer outside your place of business. That's what stopped us in our tracks tonight as we cruised along Illinois Route 140 in Bethalto, Illinois in search of dinner.
The behemoth billboard beckoned us into a place called Country Barbecue situated in a small strip of shops. Always willing to give a new barbecue joint a try, the Goshen Gourmet was smacked with a succulent smoke smell the minute the door to the diminuitive diner was opened.
When you visit, just grab a menu and order at the counter outside the kitchen in the back of the restaurant. Some of the top offerings are detailed on a white dry erase board on the wall. While we pondered what to try first, a steady stream of carryout orders was being pickup up. Country Barbecue has only been open since March, but it seems to have collected a loyal following from Bethalto and surrounding communities.
My dining companion settled on the Holy Grail of barbecue in the St. Louis area -- the Pork Steak. I wavered and, in a rare indecisive moment, ordered the Sampler Plate which allows the customer to pick three meats and two sides.
We waited a short time for the order to arrive at the table, spending time enjoying the vintage Mountain Dew signs (what else would one drink with Country Barbecue after all?) on the walls. A Razorbacks flag that we'll just have to forgive also adorned part of the wall space.
The owner brought a monster-sized Pork Steak to the table for my guest, side by side with Potato Salad, Baked Beans and Garlic Toast. My plate was piled high with Beef Brisket, Chicken and Burnt Ends. The Pork Steak came naked (no barbecue sauce). Sauce can be found in tall squeeze bottles on each table. The house sauce is a St. Louis-style sweet and smokey base dressed up with hints of black pepper and possibly a dash of cayenne. Because of its thickness, the Pork Steak takes on the quality of roast pork, extremely tender.
A special note about the potato salad. My companion pronounced it "delicious." It had a creamy dressing with perfectly cooked chunks of potato that never approached the mealy texture that sometimes ruins a great side dish. I sprinkled a little red pepper on mine to make it a little more exciting.
I have to confess that half of my Sampler Plate is in the refrigerator now. It will make a fine lunch tomorrow. I chose Beef Brisket, Chicken and Burnt Ends for my three meats. (Burnt Ends are the tasty pieces of meat cut from the end of a smoked brisket.) The chicken was hickory smoked, chunked and very moist. It was mild enough for the pickiest spice-avoiding diner if you're enjoying a meal with less adventurous friends. The brisket was finely chopped and would have been perfect on a sandwich. It can be ordered that way on the menu and I'd suggest that. The Burnt Ends also were finely chopped and glazed with a seductively sweet sauce. (I prefer Burnt Ends left in larger pieces, which is a common practice in Kansas City-style Q, but don't let that stop you from trying these.)
We didn't have room to sample the Barbecued Spaghetti or the Baby Back Ribs this visit, but we are looking forward to diving in next time we pass by. Spicy Cole Slaw and Mild Jalapeno Cornbread were also left untried.
The most expensive item on the menu is a full rack of ribs for $19.99. On the opposite end of the price spectrum, a Burnt-end Sandwich is just $2.65.
Drinks include bottled soda (Pepsi products), Lipton sweet or unsweet tea and Aquafina water. A fountain soda machine would be a great addition to the offerings.
As a bonus for the sweet tooth, the owners will sell you an Ice Cream Sandwich for just 25 cents with any order.
Country Barbecue's hours are Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. until 8 p.m.; Wednesday, 11 a.m. until 5:30 p.m. The restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday. Call 618-717-0600 to place a carryout order.
If you visit, tell them the Goshen Gourmet sent you.
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