Bundled up warmly and flashlights in hand, four of us happily strolled the side streets of downtown Palm Springs during Thursday's 14th Annual Walking Tour of the Inns. The yearly event gives locals and visitors a chance to peek into the quaint, historical small inns that are such an integral part of the city's rich history. The 14 participating venues generously serve beverages and nibbles to the inquisitive lookie-loos.
Marianne donned her flashing Christmas-bulb necklace—engendering lots of playful comments—as we wended our way through the dark, starless night. We had a rendez-vous with Palm Springs denizen, Lou Armentrout, at Spencer's restaurant, part of the venerable Palm Springs Tennis Club, an iconic fixture of Palm Springs' glory years when Hollywood stars were often photographed on its courts, rackets nonchalantly slung over shoulders.
Built in 1937 at the very base of the San Jacinto Mountains, the granite boulders literally form a backdrop to the complex. Spencer's mounted a lavish dessert-oriented buffet bracketed by flaming torches and gingerbread houses. It was a splendid way to commence the evening—nibbling on goodies, wine in hand, standing around one of the most photographed pools in the desert with the night-lit mountain framing the magazine-worthy scene. 
The club gave its name to the surrounding area, now known as the Tennis Club District. Among the inns we toured duirng our perambulations were the The Hideaway, which debuted in 1947 as the Town & Desert by designer Herb Burns. It and sister inn, The Orbit Inn—also built by Burns a decade later in 1957—have been lovingly restored with homage to their '50s sensibilities and now star in the modernist tourism revival.
Atomic clocks, groovy artwork, Sinatra albums and retro cocktail shakers complete the distinctive decor. In a nod to the year of the hotel's inception, Miracle on 34th Street was running on one of the black-and-white TVs. Lou and I didn't budge until John Payne wonderingly remarked to Maureen O'Hara ("Oh no, it can't be.") that perhaps what he did for Edmund Gwenn's Kris Kringle wasn't so great after all. Don't you just love that film?
The Del Marcos Hotel beckoned next—its jutting roofline and boulder-glazed facade ablaze with white lights. Designed by noted architect William Cody, again in 1947, the 16-room inn retains its unique facade and rooms-around-the-pool courtyard while offering guests the verisimilitude of a stay during the heyday of Palm Springs' most famous style.
"The Jetsons live here," Marianne exclaimed upon seeing the vintage items gracing one of the suites. The petite, colorfully tiled kitchenettes reminded her of her grandmother's home. "Look how short the people were," she noted upon seeing the low-slung cabinets and counters.
I enjoyed revisiting Korakia Pensione, a Mediterranean-styled hotel and annex straddling both sides of Patencio Road. From the huge hand-carved Afghanistan doors framing the lobby—brought back in 1924 by the original builder—to the cabanas surrounding the pool (with a huge raven embellishing its bottom)—Korakia's Moroccan influence ensures the inn's uniqueness. Several guests sat mesmerized by the cascading sheets of water dominating the firepit arena.
Casa Cody B&B Country Inn is a sprawlling collection of Santa Fe-styled bungalows founded by Hollywood pioneer Harriet Cody, cousin of Buffalo Bill. Early visitors included Charlie Chaplin, Tom Mix and General Patton's officers. Lou and I swung indolently in an ornate carved swing before departing on our quest for the next drink and tour.
Adding to the evening's ambiance: large carriages drawn by Belgian draft horses, Frosty and Randolph.
Among the venues participating in the evening's entertainment were the Palm Springs Art Museum and McCallum Adobe, the oldest building in Palm Springs. Since Lou is now a docent at the museum and I wanted to concentrate on the hospitality sector, we decided to skip them.
Here's an inviting tent-covered spa at the Calla Lily Inn, an intimate 9-room hotel centered around the pool.
Our last stop was the Viceroy Hotel, originally opened way back in 1933, and now an alluring collection of 65 rooms, suites and villas sprinkled around lush grounds recreating the Hollywood Regency style popular during that town's golden age. Black, white and lemon yellow create a striking color palette. Citron, the on-site restaurant glimmered seductively in the dim light as we traipsed through the bar to the grounds; I made a mental note to come back and savor the ambiance more leisurely.
While there, Kirk spied my girlfriend, Linda Williams, with her family. Up to that point, I had expressed teasing envy that Lou knew so many people, hailing at least five friends during the evening's adventure. Since he and partner, Michael Welch, moved to Palm Springs from Columbus a mere four years ago, they have steadily woven themselve into the fabric of their adopted city and are now locals in every sense of the word. I'm always happy to see my favorite real estate clients settle in and enjoy their new surroundings so I felt a small glow of pleasure at this knowledge.
Up to our ears in hot apple cider, we decided to call it a night, resolving to return another holiday season.
Mark your calendars for next year's 15th annual should you be visiting our fair desert!
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