The city rises from the mountain mist like Brigadoon - caught in a fantastic time warp. Strolling around downtown, you'd swear you've been transported to San Francisco circa 1973. Outdoor cafes sit side by side with head shops, tie-dyed t shirts are displayed in the store windows and street performers entertain the tourists. Welcome to Asheville, North Carolina.
Don't get me wrong. Asheville is one of my favorite cities. And "Viva, AsheVegas" is actually the title of a well-known local blog about this mountain community.
Asheville reminds me of nothing more than a college town - except that half of the college students are now retired. Well-dressed gay couples from Key West stroll down the street, followed by Birkenstock-clad former hippies whose ponytails have long since turned gray.
I'm downtown, sitting at a table by the sidewalk on the first day of spring. Across the street, the city park is rocking. Everyone is out enjoying the sunshine after an unusually tough winter. A trio of drummers provides background music for the bare chested group of hackey sack players in the center of the little courtyard.
Tables are set up along one side of the park with pay-for-play chess games in session. After quickly losing a few matches, my husband informed me that it should be dubbed "pay for a lesson" instead.
There's a colorful stand set up on the corner hawking familiar glazed nuts. Across the street, a young woman with a guitar slung around her neck poses for pictures in front of a 6 foot tall cardboard jukebox. She'll play any song listed on the front if you put a buck in the slot. I look closer. Every song is by Patsy Cline.
I've scored this table at the heart of all the action thanks to the courtesy of a local named Donna. We arrived at the entrance at the same time. She was on a motorized chair with a Chihuahua riding in style between her feet.
Donna saw us checking out the menu posted out front and announced that Mayfels has "the best po' boys you'll find anywhere." She said she comes here nearly every day for lunch. When the hostess appeared, Donna insisted that we take the first available table outdoors. She didn't mind waiting for the next one. By the way, Donna was right. My po' boy was delicious.
We've found the same casual friendliness everywhere we go in Asheville. The city has been named one of the "10 best places to live" numerous times over the past few years. It's not just a place with incredible mountain scenery. Although it's a small town, a rich mixture of cultural events, great shopping and unique restaurants thrives thanks to tourist dollars brought in from the Biltmore mansion, the largest privately owned home in America.
Asheville is just a two hour drive from Murphy through the scenic Nantahala Gorge. It's convenient for a day trip to the mall or a girl's day out exploring the many antique shops. If you're staying overnight, there's a new comedy club and a wide variety of music at local night spots. It's become my favorite destination for a weekend getaway. Viva, AsheVegas!
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