This has nothing to do with real estate - just some info for POOL OWNERS in Florida

I was thinking about what to blog while cleaning my pool today and !voila! it came to me - pools. They are a MUST HAVE for many buyers and a HEADACHE for some sellers. The number of pools in Florida has been reported to be WELL OVER 1,000,000... unfortunately, we also lead the nation in drowning deaths as a result.

That said, maintaining a pool can be daunting for new owners. Lucky for me, my wife was a Certified Pool Operator (CPO) in VA and ran many commercial pools. She was always the one to let me know what I was screwing up and how to remedy.

Your husband/wife/significant other not a CPO? We can fix that - we have many local pool supply companies that will test your water for free. Of course, they hope you buy the chemicals their tests say you need. When we had our pool resurfaced, a condition of our warranty was that we had to have the water tested EVERY month. This I do at a local pool supply co.

I'm not going to go over the basics of pool chemistry, as I do not claim to be a pool expert. I have become comfortable with my own pool and spend just about 5-10 minutes PER WEEK cleaning it. BUT EVERY POOL IS DIFFERENT!

The purpose of this blog article was to bring to light something I found out today. During my monthly water test, I was told I had low "Total Alkalinity" and low "Calcium Hardness" due to the 8" of rain we have received. That reminded me I had to drain the pool TWICE this last week.

I googled my pool's "condition" and here's what I found:

The total alkalinity (TA) is a measure of how much of the alkaline substances there are in the water. In the swimming pool water, we are concerned with bicarbonate alkalinity, which should be between 80 ppm and 120 ppm.

When the total alkalinity (TA) is within this range, it prevents rapid pH changes and "stabilises" the pH level.

If the TA is too low, Marbelite and plaster walls will become etched, metals corrode, the pool's walls and floor can stain, the water can turn green, eyes burn and we can have pH bounce (pH rapidly going up and down, seemingly at random).

If the TA is too high, the pH is difficult to adjust, the water becomes cloudy, the pool constantly needs acid (according to your test kit) and the chlorine loses its efficiency as a disinfectant.

It is recommended that you test the TA regularly, but in practice it changes very little in a well-maintained pool.

As for the calcium hardness, I have seen it pull calcium from the pool surface when it is too low:

Low calcium hardness

Low calcium hardness results in corrosive water. The plaster surfaces or tile grouting softens and erodes, metal equipment and accessories oxidize and rust quickly, and the water becomes aggressive. This can lead to staining of the pool's surfaces as well as an eventual need for resurfacing.

Increase low calcium hardness

The calcium hardness level can simply be increased through the addition of calcium chloride or any commercial calcium increaser (which contains CaCl).

Alternatively, in swimming pools that suffer constantly of low hardness due to the quality of the fill water, calcium hypochlorite could be the chlorine of choice. This chlorine adds calcium to the pool water with each addition keeping the level up. Care must be taken to test Conditioner a couple of times a year as this chlorine (65% - 70% CHC) does not contain conditioner in its formulation.

High calcium hardness

High calcium hardness results in scale formation on the pool surfaces as well as scaling in the pipes, plumbing and filter. In extreme cases the water becomes dull and cloudy with the calcium precipitating out into the water rather than onto a surface. High calcium levels will also irritate swimmers, causing sore eyes in particular.

So if you have a pool and have rec'd a bit of rain, make sure you test your pool water. If anything, I hope this post saves you some frustration down the road...