Having spent six years living in Asia, it's kind of an understatement to say that I developed a taste for Asian foods. And needless to say, many Asian restaurants are about as close to the real thing as Wonder is to bread. Finding an authentic Chinese restaurant in Des Moines, Iowa then is in my opionion both a refreshing and rarified event.
My first visit to Taste of China was when they were in their original location at the corner of Douglas and Beaver Avenues. It was just a non-descript storefront that belied the delights within. Right away it felt like I was back in Asia the smells and the feel of the place brought back many memories of little mom and pop restaurants in Tokyo and Seoul. There was no, and still aren't any cheesy obligatory heavy red lacquered red dragons, big bellied buddahs or intricately carved corner moldings, just simple paper lanterns, a few scrolls, a Chinese calendar and several simple chrome and Formica tables looking stark an forlorn. The staff were all Chinese, members of an extended family I suspect, and spoke only in Chinese amongst themselves, as they still do to this day. At the time it was primarily a take out joint, but that would soon change when they moved to new digs in a brand new building at 4212 Douglas Ave.
The decor still remains deceptively unremarkable but the food is anything but. One the best things about the place is their 30 item under $6 lunch menu that includes a main dish, rice, soup and an egg roll or rangoon which never fails to satisfy. I've had many dishes but among my favorites are the general Tso's chicken, the house low mein (which is really popular with the staff) and the vegetable rice noodles.
Dinner is a bit more, $5.95 to $8.50 for a main dish with just rice, the soup and appetizer are extra, but there portions are very generous.
Unlike many other similar restaurants the food here is cooked to order in big woks heated over a roaring flame, and is served pipping hot. Some parts like breaded items are prepared in advance and reheated but Taste of China does not cook up huge vats of dishes and ladle out soggy spoonfuls of mush like so many other forgettable "Amer-Asian" and buffet joints. In fact, there is no buffet here and I thank them for that. The rice is always sticky steamy and fresh, the egg rolls and wontons crispy and delicious, and the soups a hearty mix of vegetables served hot.
I've had the delivery when I was unable to drive to the restaurant but would recommend a visit there instead. Lunch is served from 11-3pm and the place is open 7 days a week until 10:30pm Su-Th and 11pm on weekends.
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