Well the shower stall is done, and I thought I'd share some more pictures. As most of us know, tiled joints always crack where there is a change of direction, so I specify applying silicone in the corners.
Having spent years as a glazier, I was "schooled" in the way of "tooling" silicone. I'm pretty good at "free handing", but hate the lump when reapplying pressure on the gun. This technique give me the ability of smoothing out the lumps and not making a mess.
Hey Brad,
Don't joke around, I have some credit card miles that I have to use or lose. I was hoping to attend a class or something, maybe I'll come to your house instead.
Steve I hope you do not mind me adding a tip.
As an Artist I have worked with and studied the properties of silicone.
First off brand makes a difference.
Buy DAP for the best quality.
Also everyone should know that silicone is water activated giving you a very short time to use it , so once out of the tube make sure it is smoothed right away.
I know how hard it is to store but find the best way is to just throw a tight screw into the opening.
Also if you ever want a custom color just add a food dye or paint in moderate amounts then work fast.
Squirt it on a paper plate.With the tip on the plate.
Just remember you are also introducing small bubbles.
Hope this helps.
Great tip Steve.
You are a pro.
Hi Bob,
Yes, work fast. It doesn't take long for it to "skin" up and that will make "drag" makes in your work. Also, keep plenty of paper towels on hand and keep your tools clean. Remove the tape right after you tool the silicone, and finally, keep an open garbage bag nearby to drop the used tape into as you pull it off. Otherwise, you will have a mess.
I never realized that silicone was water activated, I always thought it was air activated. Well, I guess you learn something new everyday.
Tomorrow, I have to change a sub-panel in an apartment building. It's not as busy or as big as the last one I did, but I'll try to take some pictures of the project.
Hi Steve
Just got a web site with Dom.
Anyway it is suprisingly true, and if you spray it with water it sets up real fast.
Thats why on a dry day it takes forever to set up.
Still the tape trick is cool and reminds me of the stucco repair tips I have read.
Keep working that EIFS angle, and get rich with your idea .
Howdy Steven
You did a really fine job there for sure.
I also like using tape for doing that.
You took some very good photos also.
Have a good one
Dale
Thanks for the tips, my husband is a contractor of Granite, Marble & tiles. I have never seen him use tape,. But if you couldn't afford to use a professional and want to take on the job yourself I think its a great tip.
good luck
A guy like him .
Heck time is money for your husband , and he can most likely draw a straight bead in his sleep.
Good for him... Valerie.
Valerie,
I am a professional. I can draw a straight line as well as anybody, but when it is important for the job to come out "perfect"... not just "alright", I use the tape method. What about when you have to silicone something that has obstructions, or is not a short straight line.
I used to have a glazing company and I built many stores in fancy malls all over the East coast. This technique was taught to me by union glaziers that worked for me. They actually learned it at glazing school.
If you think it takes longer to tape the area, you are correct. But it does not take nearly as long as it does to clean up a mess from silicone, and "tooling" the silicone looks alot better than a squeezed on bead, especially when you have to "resqueeze" the handle of the gun. You almost always end up with a variation in the bead.
Another thing I like about taping the area, is that if I wish to hide an imperfection, I can tape the area a bit wider and cover it. By the way, taping is an art in itself. You want straight lines... not wavy. Pull the tape of the roll gently and gradually. Long pulls at a time... not short pulls as the tape tends to distort.
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