One year ago today 10/17 - Muxia!

Real Estate Agent with Long & Foster Real Estate Inc 610-225-7400 PA License - AB067198

The weather forecast is for rain, lots of rain, today. I am up early and on the road just after seven, it is dark here to well past eight o'clock, almost eight thirty in the morning. For now it is cool but dry, perfect walking weather. I have 22 kms to walk to get to Muxia hopefully before it rains. So I walk fast setting a pace of five kilometers an hour, just over three miles an hour.

The views are beautiful and it is a wonderful morning to walk, past woods and the sun rises with a red glow off the scattered cloud cover.

This is rolling hills, nothing too steep, but you are constantly walking up and down, through small villages of just one of two buildings. I see signs for bakeries, but don't actually encounter any. It is about nine thirty and a coffee would be good right about now, but there is no where to stop.

As I walk past this farm, I see old farming habits still exist here, the farmer lives with his family above the animals, getting their warmth in the house. You can see how thick the walls are, these are strong houses, built to withstand harsh and cold, wet winds. This is how farmers have built their homes for centuries.


I stop quickly in a village as I walk through seeing a bar open. Literally ducking in, wish everyone there a good morning, order a coffee and pastry. Use the bathroom, come out drink my coffee standing up, eat my pastry, pay and head out, pit stop about two minutes. They look at me as if I am crazy, this is not the Spanish way. But I want to beat that rain. I can see Muxia below me now.

I pass this Church and monastery, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. You can stay here, I am sure from the restored look that it is expensive. But I am not in Muxia yet. Stil some way to go.

MuxiaI quicken my pace as I head down into town and there before me is someone waving at me as I come around a corner, walking towards me, I realize my friend Kirsten has walked out of Muxia to meet me. We greet and head back into town as it starts to spit, arriving at 11.20 am just as the rain begins to fall in earnest.

We find a cafe on the sea front and several Camino friends are here, Kiki and Roger a couple from Sweden, he is a retired chef and they now own a boat which they charter and sail out of southern Portugal or Spain. Brigitte is here and my two Dutch friends arrive shortly after me. When you order coffee in this region, and maybe all over Spain, you always get some small cookie or pastry served with it. I will miss that when I am home.

Kirsten shows me round Muxia, not very large and then as it is raining we head back to the cafe where everyone is sitting. We sit and talk, catching up on what each has done since we last saw each other.

Brigitte and Kirsten are heading out, catching the bus which stops right in front of the cafe, going back to Santiago and onward home.

I still have to walk to Finisterra, the end of the earth as it translates. I find a hostel, not many people here so I can spread out. I receive my Muxia compostella.

I am wet through to the skin. I see for 6 Euros they will wash your and dry your clothes, so I take a hot shower, put on a pair of shorts, give them every article of clothing other than one pair of sports shorts and ask them to wash them everything. I then rest on my bed for the afternoon dry and out of the rain.

A  little later I look around town again in the dry, although the rain is never far away. The church is going through restoration following a fire, sits on the rocks with sea all around it.

The coast here is called the Coast of Death due to the rough seas and rocky shoreline. Fishing is a large part of the economy and I come across these cod skins being dried out for something.

This rock is in my guidebook and you can crawl underneath it, I decide to just be content with taking a photo.

I find the 0.0 Km marker for Muxia and as it is now starting to rain again decide to find the restauraurant Brigitte has suggested for dinner.

 Fish soup to start, full of chunks of fish and a large chrimp staring at me as it is put on the table, but very good, crusty bread and then grilled fish and razor clams for the main course followed by a tasty dessert. There is a friendly dog who has become my best friend and waits patiently for some tidbit till the owner chases him away.

 Some other pilgrims drift in, it is early for eating in Spain, but I was up early. I talk with a man from Ireland who is also eating dinner. He heads back tomorrow from Muxia.

I will head off to Finisterra, to find the 0.0 Km marker there out on the headland above the town near the lighthouse. 

Today, I had an epiphany, a vision, as I walked this morning which has stayed with me, and although I thought I understood it clearly at the time, it has become clearer over the past year. Not entirely as I understood it at the time and something that has changed my life in ways I had no idea about as I sat in Muxia last year. But it has helped me take on the challenges of this past year and look to the future. But, I realize even more strongly I was not meant to stop in Santiago de Compostella. I was called to walk to Muxia and Finisterra. Who knows what tomorrow, my last walking day will hold. As I lie down to sleep, I am satisfied and looking forward to going home. When I started this walk, I could not understand those who had walked it multiple times over different routes, but as I drift off to sleep, I am thinking about what route will I walk next. Yes, I will definitely do this again, but not sure when.


Posted by


Nick Vandekar
Nick is a Tredyffrin Easttown Residential and Commercial REALTOR selling The Main Line, Chester, Delaware and Montgomery Counties.

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the right decisions.

92 Lancaster Avenue
Devon , PA 19333
Mobile: (610) 203-4543 [call or text me]
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Bob Ratliff
Robert Ratliff Realty - San Antonio, TX
"Sold with Bob"

Thanks for sharing your walk through the beautiful photos of Muxia and Finisterra and your thoughts.

Oct 17, 2019 05:02 AM #1
Nick Vandekar, 610-203-4543
Long & Foster Real Estate Inc 610-225-7400 - Devon, PA
Tredyffrin Easttown Realtor, Philly Main Line

Bob Ratliff thanks for taking the time to read, glad you enjoyed it.

Oct 17, 2019 05:08 AM #2
Wayne Martin
Wayne M Martin - Chicago, IL
Real Estate Broker - Retired

Good morning Nick. Admire your dertermination. Thanks for sharing. Enjoy your day!

Oct 17, 2019 05:28 AM #3
Barbara Todaro
RE/MAX Executive Realty - Franklin, MA
Marketing Agent for The Todaro Team

Good morning, Nick Vandekar, 610-203-4543 you are a human machine....

Oct 17, 2019 05:41 AM #4
Brian England
Arizona Focus Realty - Gilbert, AZ
MBA, GRI, REALTOR® Real Estate in East Valley AZ

Such amazing colors in those skies, I am so glad you captured some photos of them!

Oct 17, 2019 07:45 AM #5
Sheri Sperry - MCNE®
Coldwell Banker Realty - Sedona, AZ
(928) 274-7355 ~ YOUR Solutions REALTOR®

Hi Nick Vandekar, 610-203-4543,

Another day of an amazing journey. I look forward to tomorrow's journal. 

Oct 17, 2019 07:55 AM #6
Nick Vandekar, 610-203-4543
Long & Foster Real Estate Inc 610-225-7400 - Devon, PA
Tredyffrin Easttown Realtor, Philly Main Line

Wayne Martin it was a wonderful journey and really did not require that much determination once I got started.

Barbara Todaro we all are, and as long as you look after the machines thnings run well.

There is something about sunrise and sunset, and I always enjoyed walking in the morning and seeing the sun come up touching the tops of hills miles away and slowly, and sometimes not so slowly, creep across the landscape. It was magical Brian England 

Sheri Sperry - MCNE® my last walking day tomorrow, lots of emotions.

Oct 17, 2019 10:55 AM #7
Myrl Jeffcoat
GreatWest Realty - Sacramento, CA
Greater Sacramento Real Estate Agent

Your comment #7 that mentions the sunrises and sunsets, and seeing the the sun come up and touch the tops of hills, reminds me of a journey I took to work that went east on the highway in the morning, and then west in the evening.  I always felt like I was following the sun, and it set the earth right once again!

Oct 17, 2019 04:45 PM #8
James Dray
Fathom Realty - Bentonville, AR
Exceptional Agents, Outstanding Results

Morning again Mick.

Love the photos, that soup sure looks good.  make it a great day

Oct 18, 2019 02:01 AM #9
Nick Vandekar, 610-203-4543
Long & Foster Real Estate Inc 610-225-7400 - Devon, PA
Tredyffrin Easttown Realtor, Philly Main Line

Myrl Jeffcoat there is something special about it, especially walking as you hear nature all around you, the birds and insects, the breeze if there is one. Makes you grateful to be alive.

James Dray it was, a little spicy, but on this wet day that was very welcome.

Oct 18, 2019 03:31 AM #10
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Nick Vandekar, 610-203-4543

Tredyffrin Easttown Realtor, Philly Main Line
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